Easy Peasy One Piece Cat: Upcycle & Sew A Cute Softie | Lilach Tzudkevich | Skillshare

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Easy Peasy One Piece Cat: Upcycle & Sew A Cute Softie

teacher avatar Lilach Tzudkevich, Textile artist

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

11 Lessons (34m)
    • 1. Get into a crafty mood

    • 2. Gather your materials

    • 3. Prepare your pattern

    • 4. Applying interface

    • 5. Arranging the pieces together

    • 6. Crafting the front part 1

    • 7. Crafting the front part 2

    • 8. Crafting the front part 3

    • 9. Sewing the cat together

    • 10. Last steps: turning, filling and closing

    • 11. Closure

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About This Class



This is both a beginners and experienced sewer class where you are going to upcycle your fabric scraps to an adorable unique softie cat. You'll embellish your project while learning a few basic embroidery stitches which you can later on apply to your own projects.

This is a short, easy, creative project, with detailed guided steps for success. 

Upcycle your scarps in a creative way in this crafty class.

Supplies needed for this project:

Printer & paper for the pattern

(* To download the patterns, find the patterns pdf under " Project & Resources")

Sharp scissors, Small scissors

Light to medium weight fabric scraps, an unused child's top or laying around peaces waiting to be used

Sewing pins

Hand sewing needle, and thread

Embroidery needle (size 6 up to 8)

Embroidery floss or pearl cotton in a few shades

A few felt /fleece /wool pieces for embellishment 

Fabric marker, Sewing Chalk or soft B pencil

Sewing machine (We will be using a simple straight stitch)

Iron of any type

Polyester filling (old cushion can provide plenty of fillings)

Old buttons (optional)

Light infusible interface

Fabric glue (not mandatory)

Meet Your Teacher

Teacher Profile Image

Lilach Tzudkevich

Textile artist


Hi there, I'm Lilach Tzudkevich, a self-taught textile artist from sunny Israel.

I love anything and everything about sewing embroidery and crafting with textiles.

Creating crafting and exploring the possibilities of textile and threads excite me.

Art is an essential part of my life and thus I advocate getting crafty, it's good for your soul your heart and your well being.

I studied visual arts for some good years, mastering graphic design, illustration, painting, and drawing. 

Through life events I found myself back in art at the form of textiles and threads.

Stitching heals me on many levels. It's both soft and strong at the same time and I love it.

In my work, I create abstract and figurative images... See full profile

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1. Get into a crafty mood: Hi there. My name is Lee. Lasted gave each I'm a text l arche stand a teacher Urine skin share Welcome to my class. Is it busy? Embellished cat Whether you're an absolute beginner or an experience our Take a serving scribes and and use clothing to the next level When he's easy abs I cling Project Get your creative juices flowing while you polish your embellishing skills and craft a unique up cycled soft toy You're going toe toe work with a pattern Youcef usable interface master the most for the mental embellishing techniques and the rotary stages Get familiar with embroidery, floss and broke cottons raids address And so currently lines on the sewing machine work with polyester feelings and had tons of fun So let's head onto the materialist and get crafty right away 2. Gather your materials: 3. Prepare your pattern: once you beside under materially want to use or reuse, you're going to apply the pattern. First, locate the pattern I've attached under project and resources. You click the pattern file on the right, and NATO automatically pop up for you to say or preened. You can print it out and then cut around, lying to have a clean cut out patches. We're going to cut the fabric and according to the pattern shape, and there are two main ways to do it. One is to get the pattern into the fabric and cut around the pay for patterns. Now I find that it will be difficult and easy. Obey, as I see it, is to mark your fabric and they using the pattern with some kind of a fed marking method, whether it's chalk or fabric marker or a soft pencil or even the colored pencil. All of these will do well. So mark a line around the pattern shape, and that would be a line to cut accordingly. And it's much softer and smoother that way. Just make sure you're my client is clearly visible and easy to follow. The suggestion I have is that you cut around the excess fabric that you have. If you have excess fabric like me, and then cuts more accurately according to the line, you of mark in the layers together with pain, so they cut evenly. Once you finish cutting the fabric according to the shape, you're going to prepare the segments for their front off your cat. So, first of all, printing factory of the segments, if you haven't done that already and then cut them according to shape, not bring the felled or the pieces of fabric you're going to use for the banishment of the front. So you haven't talked out of five segments. The ears, of course we're doing and twice and bring the felt scraps or pieces you have on apply the pattern on the sale The best. A solution is to append a pattern on the felt weeds and summing things. But some pieces are too small to be pained with pen, and then you'll just have toe hold them while marking them with the marking pen and then cutting around so see which method works for you as long as you cut according to the shape . It doesn't really matter. For instance, that years were too small. So I'm just going toe, hold him with my finger and mark along the shape and then cut accordingly. Of course, you unique two years and I'm going to mark them twice. Ben, mark the shape of the nose as well. And then you can cut according to the marked lines. Forget the same process with the eye patch, the left badge and the right match until all your embellishment parts are ready before we apply, then segments on the front. I stressed you prepare your material with the IMF usable interface to making more steady and easier to work with the stitches later. So this is what we're going to do in the next part. We're going to apply INF usable interface on your material. 4. Applying interface: interfaces used to add stability to the fabric. We're going to use an INF usable interface, which has a grainy side. This sign will be applied on the wrong side of the fabric. Those little grains are a little dots of glue that will melt while you ira Nate on the fabric. The Intertek face comes in three different anyway. It's lightweight meeting weight and heavy weight, the way I should mention and and be equal or a little bit lighter. And your fabric you're using the interface should be cut in the same way is the fabric. So you can. I either use the pattern on the fabric itself to cut according to the shame when you apply the fabric on the interface or by super, so make sure that wrong sides need so the glue side meets the wrong side of the fabric. This is really important, otherwise your glue is gonna meant melt on your irony and you're gonna have a small catastrophe. Using the interface is not mandatory, but it will help you to stabilizer fabric and the but the whole embellishment process is going to be much easier if you do use it any for instance, I didn't use it. Hey, when I recorded this class and I was sorry about it later on. So don't make my mistakes and, yes, invincible interface. It's really great. So as you can see you just press it with the halt Ira slowly and then your fabric is nice and stable. 5. Arranging the pieces together: this is part of the preparation is to arrange the pieces you have cut on your chosen fabric . Use the pattern as a reference guy to put every pacing place, then apply sewing pins on the pieces to keep them in place on the fabric on. You can apply fabric glue on the small pieces like than those in the years. Be aware that around the fabric there is about 1/4 of an inch seam allowance, so make sure the ears are inside in the middle off the fabric, not sliding into the seam allowance. Every clue is used best. If you pinpoint a glue in the middle of the center of the peace and just press it onto the fabric and it dries really quickly on the next part of the close, we're going to start staging it together. 6. Crafting the front part 1: we're going to craft the front now. First, choose an eagle you're comfortable working with. My recommendation is to use the needle sign six up to eight. The higher the number of the needle, the sea minorities choose a color of embroidery floss. You want to work with cutting to about 15 inch long so you'll have enough lengths to work with embroidery. Floss is made of six gains, and we usually work with two to separate this Kane's first hold two strains in your hand on untwist, a thread from top to bottom. Threading the needle. I'm going to show you two options. One is to use a needle thread or down many kinds of those needles. Better is, but the principle is the same. Just thread the needles render interred a needle. I The idea is that the spreaders I is much larger and more comfortable to work with, and then you thread your thread through the eye and slowly police backs Worden evil and your thread is credit trying out at the end of your thread by looking it around your finger and then past the edge for one side to the other and slowly pull when embroidering enhanced aging. Always start from the back so you can hide your not on the left side of your fabric. The first stage I'm going to them and straight. He's an overcast stage, looked a spread over the edge of the fabric and insult Tony. Go through the fabric and then pointed in 45 degrees with a small distance to the side of the original stage. Miss It stages Easiest. Is he a stand when working from right to left? Repeat by wrapping the spread over the edge and passing the nails through the fabric from back to front, repeated over and over until the dire edge of the fabric is wrapped in thread embroideries of the core. It ive element, and I like to highlight it by choosing a complementary colors to the fabrics that I'm sewing in the bordering. If it's not up your alley, it's really fine. You can choose similar and harmonious colors to so your parts into the front. Now let's look your stage. Insert the needle at the back off the fabric and catch just a bit of the fibers on pullets . Live it low, so you will have a loop to go through an insert the needle through that loop and pull, and that would lock your threat once you're done with the side batch and we're going to move on to the eye patch and I'm going to demonstrate a different embroidery thread, which is called Carol Cotton now, Car Carlton is not made of different skeins. But it's two threads that are twisted together, and I'm not meant to be separated. Some people find it easier to work with pearl cotton because it's just one thread cut a threat to the length that you need 15 inch long is really good length and then threaded through the needle either directly by moistening the edge and threading it into the needle's eye or using a needle. Freder, as I demonstrated before the next teach I'm going to demonstrate, is the most basic yet versatile and useful stage cold running stage. After you start from the back, you passed the needle through fabric and insert the needle back down a short distance from your or if starting point, and that's your first stage and you just carry on and continue repeatedly the same motion. Now running state, you can dio one by one speech after stage. Or you can change. Teach them meaning by manipulating the fabric around a needle. And I'll show you now how I'm doing. Okay, So I'm manipulating the fabric around, bending it down and then cooling. Okay, Using this method of the running stage is not only a time saver, but also energy saver, because looking for the for the point where you want to come up from under the fabric is much harder to do. And this way, you kind of know from top where you're going to end up your next age. If you're using a long needle like me, you can even upload more than one stitch of the time on the needle before you pull it through, which would save you a lot of time. You can do so by guiding the needle through fabric and manipulating the fabric around the needle up and down, like so. Once you're dying, may I touch your going to look the same in the same manner we did before? By going down today, left side of the fair break and catching a little bit of the fabric fibers. I'm pulling the thread until the answer you're creating in a small group and passed the needle through that loop and pull on the next part of the class we're going to carry on, embroidering on banishing the front. 7. Crafting the front part 2: crafting the front. Part two We're going to carry on working on the embellishment of the front. Specifically, I'm going to do the years now. Separate the threads, Andi, if reading through the needle Italian, not and start from the back. So basically, we're going to repeat all the process that I've explained in the last part. Hopefully you haven't skipped that class. So you know all the explanations. So I'm repeating now. The overcast stitch that because the years are quite small, then I just the size of the stitches as well. And make them shorter. Wait. Smaller gaps. This is something I do intuitively pit. What it means is did you adjust the size of your stitches to the piece you're working on? A very common troubleshooting, while embroidering is not that creates by itself. And this is from the thread being twisted while we embroider or so inserted the needle into the look that any halts the not and try toe wide in it. Then you pull the thread and straight in it and that should usually work. Carry on working on your overcast stage, attaching it into the fabric by working in the same manner and following the same guidelines I have explained before. Okay, now I want to talk a little bit about the choice of in a certain stage in this class. I wanted to demonstrate a few embroidery stages, first of all, because, unlike combining a few types of stages and colors, I think it enriches the whole experience of what you're working on and the result as well. But if you don't like one of this teaches or you find it too hard, you can work with the other stages. It's not mandatory to follow exactly the stitches that I decided to work on now. One little last thing about this overcast Ege, as you can see it, holds shapes into the background very well by holding the edge of the shape and really connecting it very friendly into the background fabric. So it really is a great method of patching and fabrics together and unifying them together . The last battery are going to do is the left patch of the lack of the cat, and we're going to use running stage for these badge, which I'm hoping you already mastered, or at least got the hang of it because it's quite a simple stage, easy and straightforward of the next part of the class and going to demonstrate a very decorative stage which is called backstage. And by that we're going to finish the facial data's with the mouth in the whiskers. Thank you and 8. Crafting the front part 3: This is the third and last part off crafting the front where we're going to attend the facial details we haven't done up until now. You can use the paper veteran as a reference, and if you want, you can mark a place of the eyes by pinning the sewing pain in the middle of the eye and then lifting the paper and seeing where that middle is and then recreating def. Eshel details with either fabric marker or self defense. So whatever works for you this time I want my lines, my stitches, to be more apparent and have more of a presence. And that's why I'm using a double thread, meaning telling both ends together off this bread and working with a double spread. So, as I promised before, I'm going to show you now how to do the backstage. The distinctive quality about backstage is that it creates a continuous line, and that's very good when you want to add a decor, it'd motive to your work. Specifically in this project, we're going to add facial liters, so this is our backstage is done. You make your first stage a normal running stage. But instead of making another stitch forward. You point your need of backwards and pass it closely to the end off your last stage, best in the euro, through the fabric and stitch ahead again and the gang backwards exactly at the end of your last stage and forward to do next. Ege on. Just repeat that method again and again. So now you know why Backstage is called backstage because you're moving backwards and then forwards and backwards again, Okay, not the distinctive. A character off this stage is that it creates a continuance line on. That's a decorative motif, which is very helpful when you want to show something like the line that we're doing now. It's not really attaching. Any fabric is just and creating a shape by stitching it as a line. Okay, the next step we're going to do is to attend the eyes. Now I like reusing old buttons as eyes for myself. Two goals. I find old buttons to give a lot of character, and usually I try a few until I'm happy with the result. I also like to mix and match buttons because I think it adds more character once you are happy with your selection. You can pinpoint the buttons in place with some fabric glue to hold a me put until you sew them with embroidery. Shit, I'm using a pearl cotton embroidery. Fred and I'm tying both ends together. So it's a double thread, and when I chose to do is to make a tiny cross stitch stage by stitching for one corner to the other and then diagonally from one corner to the other and repeat to saying we both eyes. The last and final step we're going to do now is after the eyes is embroidered and whiskers . If you want, you can use. The pattern I've provided is a reference to draw the whiskers and use any fabric marker method. You're comfortable. Way to door your lines. It's always easier to embroider on a line than imagined one that is not there. But But the fabric I chose has a very dominant pattern. And this is why, when I was working on the whiskers, I use doubles fell cartoons red, so it will be sick enough to be apparent. So my deep here is that you can choose the width off your lines according to the fabric you're working on. We have come to the end of your embellishment process array. Soon you're going to harvest. Then your seat you have planted. And on the next day, we're going to. So the cattle around 9. Sewing the cat together: So now that we have finished all the embellishing and the embroidery, we're going to sell the cat together. I applied right sides facing each other like so, and make sure that the edges are more or less aligned. Check the diamond from both sides to make sure that it's right. Andi, if it doesn't fit exactly, don't worry about it because we have a margin of about and 3/4 of an inch Semen mountains. Okay, no technical pattern and cut it on the sewing line. Alternatively, instead of using the pattern, you could just draw the line inside the shape. But if you want to get more accurate, and then you can use the past month painting together with both layers of fabric and mark the sewing line with your favorite method of marking. When you've done marking your line, you can unp in the pattern from the factory input to decide and then reaping the layers of fabric together so they're ready for stitching. Don't forget to mark your opening clearly, and this is where we're going to feel the cat from so mark the starting point on the end point of the opening, we're going to start sewing from the bottom of the opening gap. Use the straight stage and work slowly begins by locking your seeing me backstage and then work slowly around the curved lines. No taste that never and turned a fabric. I put the needle all the way in. This is very important because you want your and line your sold line to be a continuous one . If you have the needle upwards, you might lose the continuous E off the line. And that's why it's very important. Much better if you keep the needle in while you're turning the fabric like so lift the foot turned a fabric like so. This is especially correct when you're working on the curve blinds. So maybe she doesn't know how to so curved line. So each die. You have to lift it up during the fabric a little bit and carry on a few stitches and the gang in the game like so. Carry on sewing around your stage line until you reach the end of the staging point, which is the top. Find off your open where you marked it before, lock your seem at the end of your stage and removed a Peens. Another step before we turned a fabric around is to add notches. No trees are small snakes or cuts from the same allowance towards you're so blind. But stay away about one or two millimeters from your selling line because you don't want to break it and have holds Now. What they're not just do is they add flexibility to the fabric, so go around the shape and at those notches, whenever you see the line turning or it's like a corner, and this will prevent from the fabric to bunch around, and when you turn it around, it will be nice and neat. We're coming towards the end. On the next step of the class, we're going to turn over the cat, fill it with polyester and closed the opening. 10. Last steps: turning, filling and closing: we leveraged the last three steps, turning feeling and closing the cat, so to turn of fabric inside down to push slowly with your fingers and push the same outwards along the shape. Give yourself time to do so until you explore out the different segments of the cat. This so by guiding your fingers along the same from the inside of the cat, pushing it outwards, the legs, the hands, face and years. This is a good time to inspect your scenes and make sure they're complete. If you find any holes, then this is your opportunity to turn it back over and fix them easily by reinforcing the seams from inside. Once you can't is turned around, you can start feeling it with polyester. What I do is usually I start by feeling the exterior cards first, so I begin with the legs and I feel the map slowly. Bit of polyester, A two time, as you can see like so if you have it home and unused question or blanket, you can use their feeling for your cat. Usually you need about twice the volume off the door. To fit it properly, use your intuition to decide how much you want to fill up your door. Some people like to stuff in the feeling on and make it really tight. And some people like Teoh leave it more loose and spacey. So just work intuitively with what feels right to you. On the opening side, there is no tension toe Hold a pole es Tareen. And this is why you will need to refill the areas that are close to the opening again and again until you completely close it. So even after I've done a few stages, usually I would add some more polyester to that part. Okay, so it fits the edges together when they seam allowance is folded in, just like in the rest of the door when the seam allowance was followed into the scene. But now you fold it in from outside, going in, pin it with sewing things and then you could start sowing the opening by hand. No, I don't know if you can see, but my right side of my cat is a bit nearer. So what it means is that I folded the seam allowance a little bit too much. So I'm opening it back, making the seem alarms fold big narra So my dull at this point will be wider, adding some more feeling and then repeating it. Okay, now let's close the opening just big, eh? Thread in a compliment in color that won't be too obvious and will correspond to the fabric the color of the fabric you're working with. Start your stage from within, so you not will be hidden inside seam allowance. We're going to do an overcast stage, but the difference is you're holding both edges off the fabric between your fingers, and what you do is you looked a fabric and past the needles from both layers off the fabric and then loop. Peter manned and again passed in ego. Smooth both layers of the fabric and pull this red and just repeat that motion until the end of the opening. Try to keep your seems short and very close to the edge with small distances. When you reach the end of your opening, you're going to want to lock your seen in the same manner with it before by creating last loop and then spreading your needles through that loop and pulling, and you can do that twice if you like just to make sure it's firmly locked. And by that your cat is finished. I can't wait to see your project, So please post a picture in the project gallery on Let's go from some final notions. 11. Closure: First of all, I want to thank you so much for sharing your time with me. I hope you got inspired to reuse your fabrics, crabs and your tenuous clothing to create soft dolls and anything. Really? I mean, this management a technique is very first time, and you can use eat our clothing on upholstery just g o and get creative. If you like this class and you want to make another soft all you can pop into my class. The CPC AB cycled rabbits crazy, which we use patchwork technique to create a self taught feel free to pop into my other classes, revolving around textile art and creative sewing. And make sure you follow me in skin share so you can get a dented on my upcoming videos. If you want, you can follow me on Instagram and I get a glimpse of my creative path there. Lastly taken Visit my auntie shop where I sell unique up cycle gift, something very death, that etc. So until the next cramps