Draft And Sew A Wrap Circle Skirt | Kristiann Boos | Skillshare

Draft And Sew A Wrap Circle Skirt

Kristiann Boos, Sewing Pattern Designer

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9 Lessons (55m)
    • 1. 01 Introduction

      1:47
    • 2. 02 Project Overview

      0:37
    • 3. 03 Gathering Your Tools

      3:02
    • 4. 04 The Skirt Formula

      3:39
    • 5. 05 Drafting Your Skirt

      9:18
    • 6. 06 Fabric Talk

      2:19
    • 7. 07 Cut It Out

      5:50
    • 8. 08 Sewing Your Skirt

      28:06
    • 9. 09 Final Thoughts

      0:21

About This Class

Sewing is an empowering, useful and exciting hobby. Creating your own handmade wardrobe allows you to make clothing that you love and feel proud of. You don’t need to be a pro to be able to make beautiful clothes, you can jump in with a few simple skills and make gorgeous pieces that you’ll adore and wear for years to come. Join this class and learn a handful of useful drafting and sewing skills as we create a beautiful wrap circle  skirt. 

This skirt can be sewn in four easy steps, and is a great project for someone looking to build on their sewing skills or for an more experience sewer who is looking for a simple, stylish project. 

  • You will learn how to draft the skirt pattern based on your waist measurement.
  • We’ll discuss how to choose a fabric that is suitable for this skirt.
  • I’ll walk you through a few basic sewing skills that will make up the construction steps of this skirt: Seam allowance, finishing edges, ease stitching, hemming a curved edge, and sewing a waistband.

All you need to get started are a few basic tools,  a sewing machine and a basic understanding of how to operate it. Let's get started!

Transcripts

1. 01 Introduction: Hi, My name is Kristan Booze. I'm a fashion designer, and I designed sewing patterns for hobby soloists from my company. Victory patterns. You can check it out. A victory Patterns stopped coming. I started saying when I was a kid and he started cutting out my old clothes and turning it into purses and other little handmade items, and I was just really fascinated with how you could turn fabric into something functional they could wear. Over the years, I explored that further development skills, and I became a fashion designer, and I love being able to encourage people with this craft and chicken pot so and encouraging them to make a handmade wardrobe. I'm passionate about teaching people how to so because I think it's so empowering feel to make clothes for yourself. And making a hand made wardrobe means making clothing that's meaningful to you in this class will be taking a really simple, formulaic approach to drafting and sewing. Your own skirt skirt is going to be a rap circle skirt with cascading to pen. This project is actually inspired by my dad. One day when my mom was trying to find an outfit tour to a party and it wasn't having any luck. So he decided he was gonna make something for her, and she wanted to see what he come up with. So she said, Sure. And he threw us involvement on the floor and cut out a big circle and popped it over her head, and it turned into this beautiful skirt she worked out. So I'm pretty sure that if he can make this, then you can to. This project is great for you. If you're a beginner with a little bit of sewing under your belts and you're looking toe, learn new skills and techniques in advance. Your sewing level. This project is also great if you're an intermediate level sewer, as I'm sure that there is some techniques that you're gonna be able to learn from as well, you'll be able to live this skirt up in no time. So let's get started 2. 02 Project Overview: in this class, we're going to be taking a really simple, formulaic approach to drafting and sewing a rap circle skirt with a cascading tulip. Him. I'm going to be guiding you through a simple formula where you're gonna plug in your own measurements and I'll show you fund and simple method to draft your skirt pattern. We're going to talk about fabrics and we'll take a look at the kind of fabrics that are going to be suitable for this design. Then we're going to calculate the amount of fabric you're going to need for your project. Then we're gonna jump on the machine and whip it up. I will be teaching you some great beginners, sewing tips and some techniques for working with bias edges. And before you know you have a beautiful skirt that you couldn't twirl around town in 3. 03 Gathering Your Tools: Hi. Welcome to the gathering your tool section of the class. First, we're going to gather the tools for our draft, which is the first part of the project. So the first thing we're going to need is a roll of paper. So you can get this at your art supply store. We're gonna need something quite large, so get something at least 45 inches wide. If you get something wider, that's even better and quite long. I'm gonna need something about 90 inches long, But it depends on the size that you end up drafting. Another thing you're going to need is a note pad. This is just to keep track of your measurements for your formula. You can also download the pages for the skirt formula, which you're gonna find in the resources section of the class and you can keep track of it there. We're gonna need a sharp pencil. I like to use a mechanical pencil because the lead is always sharp, and the next thing we're gonna use it is a measuring tape. This is goingto be the key instrument in making our draft. Then you're gonna need an all or a pushpin something with a sharp point. Will dio, um I get my all at the art store, Aziz Well, or you can go to the dollar store and get a push pin there that we're gonna need Immediate stick, kind of a long one and a set square. This one's helpful. It's not totally necessary. If you don't have a set square or you can't find one, we can just use a book or something with a 90 degree angle, and then you're gonna need a calculator, or you can use the calculator on your phone if you have one Later, when we're ready to soar skirt, we're going to need the following supplies. We're gonna need to get some fabric. This is something that you should buy later on because we're going to talk about fabric later in a different video. Just so you know, the right kind of fabric to get, then you're going to need to buy some lightweight feasible interfacing. About half a meter of 45 inch will do. This is just add stability to the waistband of the skirt. Then we're gonna need some thread to match our project. Pick up some fabric scissors. You're going to want something that's flat along the bottoms that when we cut it runs along the table or the floor if you're putting on the floor and some snips. So this is just so that when you're sewing, you clip your threats as you work pickups and pins so that we can hold our fabric together As we're working, we're also gonna need a chopstick or something pointy like a knitting needle. This is gonna help us to turn the tie of the waistband right side out. You're also going to want to pick up a stitch ripper. This is handy for when you're making a mistake and you want to tear out your stitches and a seem guide, which allows you to set a certain seam allowance. So, for example, when you're turning your hem, that'll allow you to measure it really easily. Make sure you get a sewing machine. Obviously, that has a straight stitch at a zigzag and it iron with a steam study. I've included the tools and materials list in the class project section. If you have any questions about where to find materials, there was also a little resource list there. You can also pose questions to the community section I'll see in the next class where we'll be drafting our skirt 4. 04 The Skirt Formula: hi and welcome to the part of the class. Were will be working on the formula for our skirt. This formula is designed so that you can easily plug in your measurements and make a skirt that fits you. We'll start by taking our measurements, and then we'll plug those into a few simple calculations, and then we'll have everything we need to start our draft. Take note of your measurements and write them down because it's handy to have them nearby as we're breaking on their draft. If you like, you can go to the class Project section of the class and del Mood the circle skirt formula pages and take note of them. They're so first we're going to grab your measuring tape and you're going to take your measurement around the natural part of your waist. That's the smallest part of your waist. When you do this, make sure that your tape is parallel to the floor and then it's not too tight. So my measurement is about 32 inches. You wanna have a little bit loose just so that it's comfortable. You can take that measurement down, so then you're gonna wanna have your skirt front measurement, which is basically just half of your waist measurement. So you're just gonna divide your waist measurement by two. So for me, if my waist measurement is 32 inches, that I'm just gonna divided by two, which will equal 16 inches. Then I'm gonna want my overlap measurement. So are over. Lab is part of the skirt that wraps over the front. I want this overlap to be about 3/4 the length of my skirt front. So I'm going to take my skirt front measurement. So that's 16 inches for me. And multiply that by 160.75 which is going to give me the overlap measurement. So for me, that's 12 inches. Then we're gonna want to calculate our waste radius so our waste radius on our draft is gonna end up being our waistline. So what we need to do to find our waste radius is calculate our total waist measurement, plus our overlap measurement. So for me, that's 32 plus 12 which will equal 44. So now that you know your waist radius measurement, you're going to pull up the waste radius measurement chart from the class project page, so locate in the first column, your measurements for your waist radius and then you're gonna hop over to the second column . The number alongside your measurement is the number that we're gonna use on her draft for our waste radius. If your measurement is in between numbers, use the nearest whole number. First, let's decide on the back length for our skirt. I'm going to make my skirt 36 inches long at the back. I'm gonna add one inch to this measurement to compensate for the seam allowance at the waist and the hem, so I'll get 37 inches. Now let's decide how long we want the skirt to hit us at the knee. I'm gonna make the skirt 25 inches at the knee. One thing to consider when drafting her skirt is that fabric comes in certain wits so you'll be able to choose from 45 54 or 60 inch fabric. So when it comes time to cutting on her pattern, we need to make sure that our pattern piece fits on the width of the fabric. In the meantime, if you want to check that, your pattern is gonna fit on your fabric. What you can do is calculate the total length of the fabric plus the waste radius. And if that amount exceeds 45 inches, then you know that a 45 inch fabric isn't gonna be wide enough for your piece. So you want it, you're gonna want to get something like a 54 60 inch fabric. That being said, if it's, you know, 46 inches, then you can just adjust the pattern by chopping off a little bit off the length so that it works with a 45 inch fabric. All right, so we've gathered everything we need for the skirt formula. We're gonna use these measurements to former draft, so keep this on hand and will be working on a draft in the next video. In the meantime, if you have any trouble with the formula or with taking your measurements, let me know in the community section and I'll help you out there. I'll see you in the next class 5. 05 Drafting Your Skirt: Hi, guys. Welcome to the part of the class where we're going to draft our skirt. I've got all my tools ready to go, and I've got my skirt formula and my measurements recorded so we could just plug that into our draft when we're ready for these measurements and the first thing we're going to do is figure out the dimensions of the sheet that we have to work with. Okay, so let's start by figuring out how much paper we need to calculate them dimensions of our sheet, we're going to take the total length of her skirt plus the waste radius. And they were gonna multiply that by two, and then in this direction, we're going to take our total lengths and her waist radius. So the first thing we're gonna do is folder paper in half, and then we're gonna form a crease down that fold. With your meters sick, draw a straight line perpendicular to the fold of the paper. This line should also be close to one edge of the paper. It should be perfectly square to the folded edge so you can use a set square for this. The length of the line should equal the sum of the total length and the waste radius. Suffer me about 44 inches. Label the corner here where the line meets the fold with an ex. Plot your measurements on a measuring tape. So you gonna poke a hole through your measuring tape in the middle of the one inch mark. This is the starting point, and we'll call this point on the tape X starting from X, measured down by the waist radius measurement. Since axe begins at one inch and my waist radius is seven inches, I'm actually gonna poke a hole at eight inches. This hole is gonna be my y hole. My while hole is actually going to form the waistline of my skirt from the white hole, measured down by the measurement of your skirt legs and poke 1/3 hole into the tape. This will be holds ed. Place the measuring tape onto the paper, matching the point X so the one inch point from the tape to the X corner on the paper soak your point acts with a push pin or in all so that we can rotate the measuring tape around. This point plays a pencil through point. Why in the tape, and then rotate the tape around point X and draw a semi circle using your y point as a guy , this will be your waistline. And it also includes 1/2 interesting allowance. So using the same method that we just did for why we're gonna repeat this step for Zedd, which is gonna being her hem line. But the paper folded. You're going to cut the outer hem line and the waistline as well as the straight line perpendicular to the folds. You're gonna cut through both layers of the sheet and unfold the paper. This straight edge over here will be our center back. Seen Mark two or three notches along the edge here several inches apart. We're going to use these notches later during the construction of our skirt to help align the two pieces of fabric together. Okay, so now we're gonna plot the curve line for our tulip him. So you're gonna take the two straight edges of the circle and you're gonna fold them towards the middle crease and then uniform to crease lines along those folded edges. So we're gonna label the first crees towards the back seam here with notches. Crease number one, The sun increase. Will label number two the third remain Increase will be number three. We'll start with crease number two. This is more or less the portion of the skirt that's gonna hit, Arnie. So we're gonna plot Arnie measurement along this line measure from the waistline down and caught the desired. Any measurement. And then we're gonna add one inch for C. Malone's online number one towards the centre back edge. We're gonna plot about 3/4 of the measurement from the waist down. So let's divide Ernie measurement by 0.75 measured down from the waist and plot this point along the hem line between line one and the centre back edge. I'm just gonna mark a point along with him. That's about halfway between line one and the centre back edge. But when we reach line three, we're going to need to start curving up a bit more drastically towards our waists. So I'm going Teoh, measure half of my knee measurement from the hem. So take your any measurement. Divided by half from the hem line. Plot this measurement. All right, so now we're ready to draw the curved him. So this is something that you can be a little bit free with these points that we've marked our rough guides. If you draw your curve, connecting these points together and I'll give you a really good starting point for your curve. And then once you look at it, you can kind of decide whether or not you like this curb or you want to add a little bit or take away from the curve. I'm just gonna freehand it. If you want to use the curved ruler, you can try using that. But I just think it's really easy to just draw a smooth curve connecting your original hem line, connecting those points and then drawing it up to the waist corner. I'm going to show you how to draft a waistband that's 1.5 inches wide. As a finished measurement, the waistband will be drafted in to pieces as we're going to make an exit hole in the seam for our tie to come through. In order for the skirt to wrap around, we will also make a separate pattern piece for our ties, which we will attach to either end of the waistband. First, take another long and narrow sheet of paper this time will need it to be long enough for your waistband. So about 1.5 meters long and about 15 inches wide to create our waistband in Thai pieces, we're going to need three. Rectangles are waistband in type pieces will have 1/2 interesting Malone's. The pieces will be drafting for our waistband or waistband, one waistband to and tie for waistband. One will start by calculating the length of our rectangle. Take note of your skirt front measurement. My measurement is 16 inches. I'm going to add one inch to this measurement to compensate for my seam allowance, so I now have 17 inches. Draw a rectangle by the following dimensions four inches by your skirt front measurement, plus the Wantage waistband to let's calculate the length of the rectangle for peace, too. Remember your waist measurement and overlap measurement. Find yours and subtract your skirt front measurement from that amount. So for me it's 44 minus 16 and then I get 28 inches. Use this figure and draw a rectangle that is four inches in height, so my rectangle for waistband two is four by 28 inches. Okay, now we're gonna make our tie piece multiply the length measurement from peace two by two. For my measurements, I have 28 inches times too. So my tie length will be 56 inches. Using this figure draw a rectangle that was four inches in height. My rectangle is four by 56 inches. All right, so we're gonna label are waistband in Thai pieces. The longest piece is gonna be our tie. We're gonna cut to self. We call our main fabric self, and over here on the right side is going to be our short waistband, which is we spend one and that's going to be cutting oneself in one interfacing on her, left his waistband to That's the longer waistband piece, and we're gonna cut oneself in one interfacing on this edge right here. I want to put a few notches because these air the edges that are going to get sewn together . Now, what I want to dio is put my measuring tape or my ruler along this edge. And first I'm gonna mark a 3/4 inch notch, and then I'm going to go up and mark a one inch notch and then half into notch and then another one inch notch. So what will end up happening here is this edge is going to go alongside it, and we're gonna transfer those notches over. So just to clarify right here, 3/4 right here, one inch here, half a niche, another one inch notch and then another 3/4 inch. So when we're selling these, adjust together, we're gonna be sewing along here, leaving a space for Ty to come through flowing along here again, living another space for try to come through and sewing along here again. So these are going to be holds that our tie will legs it through in Norway. Spend one other thing we want to do here is label these two pieces to be cut right side up . So it's important that these pieces are cut in the right orientation. So I'm just gonna mark the letters R s. You right side up on both of these pieces and we're done with our waistband. Great. So we're done our draft and we're ready to calculate the amount of fabric that we're going to need for the project. So before you pop out to the fabric store joined me in the next class, and we'll figure that out. If you have any questions about your draft, asked me in the community section and I can help you out there. I'll see you in the next class. 6. 06 Fabric Talk: Hi. Welcome to fabric talk. We're gonna be talking a little bit about the kinds of fabric that are suitable for your project. One that you really want to think about is the drape of your fabric. So drape is the way fabric falls and moves when you wear it. This project is a circle skirt, so it includes a lot of fabric. So that means that when we walk, it's gonna have the need for a lot of motion. Otherwise, it's gonna look really stiff and really big on us. So let's just look at some things that are gonna work and some things that aren't gonna work. So here I have a fabric that you know, you can see. It's almost like water. And that way, when we were the skirt, it's gonna move around with us. This is a lighter weight fabric, whereas this velvet, for example, also has a really beautiful drape. But it's heavier weight, so you can choose a fabric that has a beautiful soft straight that is both either heavy or lightweight. And that's what we're gonna want to work with. You want to be careful that you don't go with something that's heavy, and that doesn't have a lot of motion to it because it's gonna look quite large on you, and it's not going to be beautiful. But you do want to be careful that you don't get a fabric that's too thin. Otherwise the lights gonna go through it and it's not gonna be very modest. So maybe that's what you're going for. But I recommend getting something that's a little bit more light fast. Okay, so I'm gonna figure out how much fabric I'm gonna need for me. Peace. So I've laid me pattern piece for the skirt out in front of me, and I'm gonna measure the length of it, starting from the center back corner over here all the way to the other edge. My piece is a little bit longer than my tape, so let's just figure out how much longer it's about, Let's say eight inches longer, So 68 inches in length and I need to double that says 68 times to, um that is going to give me enough fabric also from my waistband and tie pieces. So what I'm gonna do is take 68 times two for meters. I am going to divide that by 39 4 yards. I'm gonna divide that by 36 that's going to tell me how much fabric I need to get. Now. It's time to go out and pick some beautiful fabric for your project. If you want any help, but you are having a hard time making a choice, you can upload a photo of. Your choice is to the Project gallery, and we can lend her opinion. 7. 07 Cut It Out: It's the first thing we're gonna lay our fabric out and we're gonna fold it in half. I'm gonna match the salvage edges together of your fabric is really shifty. You can pin that just together and just make sure that it's neat and free of wrinkles. And then we're going to take our skirt piece well laid out so that the center back edge over there that street edge is straight along the salvage. You want to make sure that your center back edge is equal, distant along the edge to the salvage. So what you can dio is measure even just one inch. So let's just bring that one inch away from our salvage. So I'll measure here, and I'll just put a pin in place pitting through the pattern on both layers of the fabric. And I'll just measure down the middle one inch away from the salvage and over at the end over here and just again meeting yourself. The judges, if they're a little bit off. Great. So now this piece is straight on grain so we can continue pinning around the perimeter of the skirt. I'm gonna place the pins along the length of the paper edge, and I'm gonna place them about 5 to 7 inches apart around the perimeter of the peace. Okay, so now that our skirt pieces laid out, we're going to take our type piece and place it over here, and it's gonna be equal distant to the salvage edge along the length of the peace. And we're gonna pin every 5 to 7 inches like we did with our skirt because with the fabric is layered in two layers were going to be cutting two layers of the time. And over here, where we have some extra fabric later, When we're some cutting these two pieces, we're gonna open the fabric right side up where they put these two waistband piece is right side up onto the fabric and will cut one layer of each of those afterwards. All right, so let's Pinar type piece down and cut these two pieces out the skirt Peace and the type piece are ready to cut. So I'm gonna take me flat edge of my scissors. I'm gonna start cutting the waistline and all around the perimeter of the skirting the type ease four sharp curves like the waistline here you can make small little cuts occurs are a little bit tricky toe work around, and you can also approach it from the other side. Go. All right. So over here on the centre back edge, we had marked a few nauseous. So basically noxious air, like registration points for our constructions. The wound were sewing the piece together along this edge. We want to make sure those little points a line. So let's just cut some little little triangles that are about 1/4 inch deep through both layers of fabric at the point or even marks in Dutch. Okay, so we thought waistband number one and two over here and again. I'm just going to measure the straight edge of the waistband to the salvage, and I'm gonna pin this piece down. Another thing is the these pieces have to be placed right side up onto the right side of the fabric. So pin those down and cut them out. And then once you've done cutting the pieces, you need to make sure that you cut the notches on either edge here. We're just gonna cut the notches along these two pieces if you want. You can actually just lay the two waistband pieces together along that edge and cut the notches together. That makes things a little bit more, I guess. Efficient. Inconsistent. So I just cut little quarter inch triangles along the edge of the fabric like we did on the Sunday back of the skirt. So the last thing we need to do is take these pins off and cut these same pieces in interfacing. Okay, so now we're gonna just cut those waistband pieces out of interfacing. So I've laid my interfacing with the glue side up, and I've put the waistband piece is right side up onto the interfacing, and I've pinned it down. And I'm just gonna cut these ones out. So later these we're gonna get ironed on to the waistband, and that's going to just give it a little bit more stability. So now that your skirt is all cut out, we're ready to sew it together. So I'm going to guide you through the construction steps in the next video. But if you have any questions on the cutting or anything else, let me know in the community section, and I'll help you out there before we get going. I'll see you there 8. 08 Sewing Your Skirt: Well, if you've made it this far, that means that we're ready to. So your project, which is pretty exciting. So the first thing you need to know about the project is that it has 1/2 an inch seam allowance. A seam allowance is the distance between the fabric edge and soul line. So what you can actually do is look on your guide plate of your sewing machine at this half an inch line right here. And that's what you're gonna align your fabric edge with as we So So our waistline here is cut on the bias, this bias when we so it to the waistline, which is going to be a straight edge, is gonna end up distorting and stretching out. And it's gonna have results in what seems to be a different measurement to the straight waistline. So later in the project, we're gonna need to control the bias distortion and allow this edge to equal the length of the waist band. So what we want to do is so what's called an East itch? Sony Stitch is a straight stitch, sewn it a bit of a longer stitch link. So about four stitch length and we're gonna start sewing from the little corner tip here, which is gonna be the overlap point towards the centre back. And we're going to so that at 38 seam allowance so that the stitches not visible after we saw a final half an inch seam allowance. So let's go over to the machine and so unease ditch on both of the skirt pieces and I'll see you there as you're selling your east, it you're gonna leave a few inches of thread and you're going to start from the corner of, like, the overlap corner and you're selling at 38 seam allowance and you're not slowing a back stitch here. And you're gonna so along the waistline when you reach the center back, just end with a little back stitch. So here we have our skirt peas and we've got both of them sewn with unease Stitch along here. So later on in the project again, when we so the skirt to the waist band really take one of these threads and we're gonna pull it and thats gonna allow the skirts sort of travel along the thread, and it can pull the little excess that we get along the skirt waist in a little bit, so it allows us to control the bias stretch, and it will allow the skirt waist edge to match the waistline. All right, so the next step of the project is to finish our edges, and we're gonna do this with either a surge or a zigzag stitch. I'm going to use his exact stitch. And the reason why we do this is just to prevent the edges from fraying. And we're only going to do this to the edges that are exposed. So that's gonna be the centre back edges and the big curve of the skirt, the waistline and the waste bend and tie pieces are all gonna be enclosed so we don't have to zigzag research along those edges. So when where is exacting, we're gonna actually just want the needle. And when it's in the right hand position to be just along the edge of the fabric so that the exact just sort of in cases, the fabric there, I think so. What we're gonna do now is we're gonna align the to skirt pieces right sides together along the centre back edge. So this is where those notches that we cut earlier are going to come in handy. So align the top edge of the skirt along the waistline, and then you're gonna locate your notches, and you're gonna pin them at the notches together on making sure that the fabric etches a line. So once you have your nachos aligned and the lower hem edge of the skirt pieces, you can just pin in between. If you find that you don't have enough pins, so you're paying about every five inches apart, or so I like to pin with the head of the pin overhanging the edge of the fabric. In that way, if I'm right handed, that is, it's easy to take them out as I'm sitting with my right hand. If you're left handed, you can turn the pin the other way around so that the head is sort of pointing. Well, this is the pin is pointing off the edge of the fabric. All right, so once that's been together, I mean, so this center back edge at 1/2 an interesting allowance on my sewing machine, and I'm gonna back stitch at the beginning and end of the stitch and then I'm gonna press the seam open. All right? So as we so our center vaccine, align your fabric edge with the second land on your guide plate so that we have 1/2 an interesting allowance and you can remove your first pin after you've put the fabric under the foot. You're gonna just so little back stitch here. Oops, sorry. Change your machine to a straight stitch with the 2.5 stitch length that's reduce our stitch length. Because the last street stitch we had was an easy stitch. So we're going to reduce it to 2.5. So you're gonna so with a little back stitch here and then we're going to continue sewing. Ah, it's half an inch seam allowance all the way down there. Centre back edge. So as you approach your pins, you're going to remove them just before you so over them. All right, so we've soner center back seam, and we've pressed the seem open, and now we're ready to begin hemming the skirt. So what we're gonna do to make coming in a little bit easier is we're going to so a straight stitch all the way around the curved perimeter of the hem, and this is going to just make it a little bit easier when we goto press the him in this stitch line is going to act as the fold line, sort of like a perforated line, which we're going to fold the fabric on when you're working with bias and and a curved him , it could be a little bit tricky to turn over. So this stuff is going to make things a little little bit easier for us. The skirt hem is come on. Bias bias could be a little bit difficult to turn over when we're having it. So to make this a little bit easier, we're gonna so a straight stitch along the curves perimeter of the skirt pieces We're gonna so a straight stitch at 2.5 stitch length at 1/2 an inch. See, Malone's as you approach the centre back seen here. Just make sure that the seam lands is still saying staying open as you so over it. If you need Teoh, you could just lift your foot and tuck that seem lands underneath it. Rico. Oh, okay. So we've sown the stitching on the perimeter of the curve. And now we're going to take this over to the iron, and we're gonna use that stitch line as, ah, little gold mine for our him. All right, so we're turning the hem over along the sitch line, and we're gonna press it and give it a little steam. So now that I've turned my hem in, I'm just gonna want Teoh pin it along the perimeter. Okay, so now we're gonna him our skirt, and I'm sending my machine to a straight stitch a 2.5 stitch length, and I'm gonna be selling at 38 seam allowance. So that's matching the fold of the hem here at the first line on the guide plate. So I'm going to start with a back stitch, and then I'm gonna sell all the way around my him, removing the pins as I approach them. It's another way. So in the hem, we're just gonna press along the edge just to give it a nice, neat press. Crisp edge, Steamy. All right, so now we're gonna prepare the waistband pieces to be sown, and the first thing they want to do is apply the interfacing. So I've laid my interfacing with the glue side facing up, And then I'm gonna take my waist band fabric pieces and put it wrong side down onto the interfacing. So a line the pieces together, and then you're going to take your iron, and you're gonna just press it into the fabric with some heat, steam and pressure. And I'm not moving the iron around. I'm just sort of pressing it at first with some steam. This is gonna melt the glue into the fabric, and it's gonna adhere the interfacing. All right, so once is pressed in, then you can kind of move the iron along that way, the fabrics not going to shift. All right. So you can also turn it over and just make sure it's really pressed on there and that the glue is really melted. All right, so then we'll do the other piece, and then we're ready to so it. All right, So now let's so our way. Spend, I've got the waistband. Number one, which is the short part of the waistband over to my right and waste Man number two, the longer waistband piece over to my left. So that on the too short science the notched edges are sort of matching. All right, So what I'm gonna do is turn the short piece right side together with the longer piece on. I'm gonna pin the peace along this edge, aligning the notches. Okay, So we're gonna So along this edge 1/2 inch seam allowance. I dropped my foot down and I'm gonna so a vac stitch I'm gonna so too the first Nagy, And I'm gonna end at that point with a back stitch coming back to that notch, I'm gonna lift my foot and make sure my needle is out of my fabric. And I'm going to travel over to the next notch, and I'm gonna drop my needle in at that notch, and I'll drop my foot. So a back stitch, not exceeding that knowledge. And so towards the next notch, with a back stitch. So that's just a little half inch stitch there with a back. Such on either side again. Lift your needle and your foot and travel over to the next Nagy. Make sure to maintain your half a native Seema Lohan's Take your pin out and drop your needle down. So a little back stitch at that notch. And so to the end of the fabric, you guessed it another back stitch. All right, so that's it. We're taking it out. So I've clipped the threads in between the area along the seam that we haven't sown, and we're just gonna press this seem open. Okay, So what has resulted along the seam are too little openings here. That means that when we fold the waste bend in half, these were gonna match up, and that's going to be the little exit hole for our tie. Okay, so we've got our waistband in our to tie pieces, so we want to take one type piece and pin it right side together with this end of the waistband over here. So pin that and then we're going to do the same thing on the other side. So over here, right sides together, pin your other type piece. Once we've pinned it, we're just gonna so it together at 1/2 an inch. See Mylan's All right. So let's put this seem together happening to see Malala with the back stitch on both sides . And I've got my other one ready to go here, so let's just do that one time, and then we can just cut the thread in between. Great. So let's take that to the iron and press the seams open. What we're gonna do now is layer waste bed right side up with the short part of the waistband. So waistband one to my left side and waistband to the longer part of the way spent on my right side. First, let's just fold this in half. Bringing the two seems along the waste band together and along this fold here, I'm just going to stick a pin in just through a single layer like that, and that pin is gonna mark the middle of our waistband. So again, lay that out flat, right side up. And then we're gonna align our skirt waistline along this top edge here. All right, so we're gonna take our skirt waistline, and we're gonna match it with the top edge of the waistband, right sides together. So the first point I want to align is the centre back seam of the skirt with that pin that we've just put into the top edge of the waistband. So let's just connect those two points and pin it together. Then we're gonna take the corner tips of our waste here over to match the seams of the waistband. So let's just pin it so that the edge of the little fold of the hem here extends just about half an inch over the scene here. Well, it's just pin it at that point, when you're pinning it, just make sure that the seam of the waistband is open. All right, let's go to the other side. So over here, that's again. We're just gonna make sure that the full did edge of the hem just exceeds the seam of the waist band by about 1/2 a niche and pin that in place. Okay, so this is where your east ditch is gonna come in handy. So if you find that your edge of the skirt here is a little bit bigger than the edge of your waist, it's because the bias has distorted the fabric. And maybe it's stretched out a little bit. So this East it is going to allow us to bring that Robert in a little bit and control the distortion that may have happened. So what we'll do is remember, we have these tail threads from Ari Stitch. I want you to take one of those threads. Let's say the threat on the wrong side of the fabric and tug it just a little bit. All right, so that is gonna pull your fabric in just enough so that we have, you know, like a little bit of puckering happening here. But basically, we've made the thread along the waistline. Teoh equal the length of the waist band here. So the goal here is to distribute any excess of the skirt evenly along the length here so that there's no puckers along the edge and so that the waste of the skirt equals the waste of the waistband. So once that's done, then we can take our pins and pin those layers of the skirt and the waistband together, matching the edges of the fabric and making sure there's no puckers. How long the little east ditch there? So let's go to the other side of the skirt again. We're just gonna pull some of the ease in. You can pull more than you need Teoh, if you like, And then that way. If once you've figured out how much to take in, you can always let out some of the ease if you've taken in too much, All right. Taking a little bit more so those equal up and no, I can pin these layers together. Okay, So once we've done that, now we can So the skirt to the waistband. Okay, so now we're gonna stitch from this seem here all the way alone to the other. Seem ending with the back zits on either side. Okay, so we're gonna beginner stitch right here at the scene where the little folded edge of Arnhem meets the scene. And let's start with the back stitch. And also, we're selling it 1/2 a ninja seam allowance. So that will be just in a little bit from Ari Stitch. So you know you'll notice Is I'm sewing. If there's any puckers along this Easter, you can just distribute them out so that they it doesn't results in the pucker. When we have our finished seem, let me get to our center back Seem which is laying open. Make sure it stays open, so just hold it open as you so over that seem Okay, so we're coming to the end here. We're going to just end our stitch when we reach the skirt hem and the seam of the waistband. All right, so what I'm doing now is I'm just reducing the seam allowance of the skirt in half, so I'm trimming it down and this is going toe reduce the bulk along the waistline. I'm beginning the trim, just like at the seam of the waistband here. So just like that just sort of blended off with my trim just before I reach the seam there on both sides of the seam. And you can just clip any loose threads that you've got. All right, so now that you've trimmed your seam allowance, you just want to press the seam loans up towards the waistband. As you do this, you might just want toe pull the waistband in this skirt layers apart just so that you get a nice, neat press. So now that we press the seam allowance up, it doesn't hurt to turn the government over. The right side is facing you on. Just press once again along the waistline seem and again, you're just pulling the layers of the waistband in the skirt apart. This is just making sure that this seem is really pressed open. Okay, guys, that's the home run on the waistband. What we want to do is have the waste and the skirt facing right side up. And I'm going to just turn the skirt onto the waist, band right sides together, and this is just going to kind of get it out of the way. I'm just gonna kind of crumple it up like this. And what I want to do know is bring this seem over to match the other side of the scene. I'm gonna pin it at this point here. Once that's done, I'm gonna keep pinning along the Thai so the edges are aligned in the right sides of the tire together. So you're gonna pin around the entire long length of the tie until we reach the end here. And you're also just gonna pin the tie together just the short end. You're gonna do this on both sides of the tie, and then we're gonna so it at 1/2 a ninja seam allowance. So we just want to make sure that the tie is pinned all along the lung inch and along the little short end right here, so now we're going to. So the tie beginning the stitch at this point right here at the seam, sewing all the way along the length of it, pivoting about 1/2 an inch away from this edge and turning the stitch to sew along this edge here. All right, so here's the point where the waistband ends and the Thai begins. I've got my pin right here. And that's where I'm gonna start sewing. So take that out. And no place that under the machine. And I just saw a back stitch here. So again, my seam allowances half an inch. So I've been sewing along the whole length of the Thai here, and I'm going to drop my needle just towards the end just about 1/2 an inch before the edge of the fabric here that I'm gonna pivot and so towards this world here and do a little back stitch. All right, so we're gonna repeat this step on the other side of the waistband, selling once again at half an inch and beginning our stitch at the scene here. Okay, so here we're just gonna trim the corners right here and right here. And this is done so that when we turn the waistband right side out, it doesn't have a lot of bulk. And so these two corners could be nice and pointy O k. So, no, you're going to take your chopstick, and we're gonna use it to turn our tie right side out. So what you're going to do is take the two layers of the Thai just a the end there and pull them apart and just start to kind of talk that seam allowance in. And then we're gonna poke the chopstick in so that we begin to turn the tie into itself to travel the tie all along the channel. Eventually, you're gonna reach the opening of the waistband right here. So poke it out. And this is the point where now we can begin to kind of poke out the corners of the tie and make them nice and sharp. Then you can remove the chopstick and pull the rest of the Thai right side out. Magic. Okay, so repeat that for the other side. Okay, so now I'm just gonna press my tie. And once that's pressed, you're gonna take the unfinished edge of your waistband. The inner part of it. And we're gonna turn this edge in over to the wrong side About 3/8 if you want. You can use your seen gauge here setting it to 3/8. And as you fold the fabric in, you just measure it just to make sure you're getting the right amount. Okay, so what we want to do here, in the end, is Teoh Stitch in the ditch. So what's the first step here is once we turn this edge in by 3/8 we're just gonna cover the stitch line just a little bit, and we're gonna pin the fabric in place. So once again, my aim here is to take this folded edge and just cover the stitch line by about an eighth of an inch. Pin it in place along the length of the waistband. Okay? We're not done yet. We need to actually turn this over to the right side position so that the project is to the left of you. And because we want so this step on the right side of the garment, we actually want these pins to be on this topside. So what I want you to do know is sort of pinch the layers that you've just pinned together on the underside. Pinch it and then take that pin out and what you're gonna do is flip it over. And because the folded edge right here is already overlapping this stitch here. When I put this pin into the seam right here just into the crack of the seam, we can be sure that on the underside the pin has gone through the folded layer of the inter portion of the waistband. So you're gonna do that along the whole length of the waistbands of pinching, removing the pin and just inserting it into the ditch of your seem here and making sure that you've captured the underside of the waistband. Okay, so we're gonna begin sewing are stitch in the ditch. And the key here is to get your stitch right in the crack of the stitch here so it secures the underside layer of your waistband. Okay, so we're gonna pull the layers part here, and you're going to just insert your needle right in the crack of the stick, stitch there and drop your foot and started with back stitch. Okay, So sewing along, remove the pins as you go, and you can align the seam here with the little middle line of your foot as a guide. Okay, so now we're just gonna press the waste bend. And then let's just take a look at this stitch in the ditches that you can see what it looks like. Come closer. All right. So here you have your stitch hidden away in the seem not really visible on the right side of the garment and on the underside we've sown in secured the inner part of the waistband. Nice and clean. Okay, so the last step here is just two. So the little layers of this little waistband loop opening together. So I've just pinned it on either side so that both layers air together. And let's just so about an eighth of an inch around the opening, so pivot. So that's it. We've sonar skirt, and I hope you had a lot of fun doing it. I hope you've also learned some new things. And, um, I hope that you love your skirt. So if you have any questions about how to sew it, If you ran into any problems, you could ask me questions in the community section. You can also upload photos. So if you're having a little trouble with something and just take a little snap of it, and I can see what's going wrong, and it could help to give you some advice. 9. 09 Final Thoughts: thanks so much for joining me in the class. I hope you've picked up some new skills and some confidence and your sewing and drafting skills and that you love the skirt you made. Please upload photos of your project to the project Gallery said Love to see how it turned out and let me know what you think of it. And I hope you have a great time sewing in the future by