Dotty Ovals Earrings | Joanne Tinley | Skillshare

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Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

14 Lessons (1h 7m)
    • 1. Dotty Ovals Earrings

      1:20
    • 2. Dotty Ovals Earrings - materials

      1:04
    • 3. Dotty Ovals Earrings - equipment

      2:23
    • 4. Dotty Ovals Earrings - soldering equipment

      5:15
    • 5. Dotty Ovals Earrings - making the jumprings

      3:25
    • 6. Dotty Ovals Earrings - soldering the jumprings

      6:01
    • 7. Dotty Ovals Earrings - filing

      5:44
    • 8. Dotty Ovals Earrings - shaping the jumprings

      6:34
    • 9. Dotty Ovals Earrings - melting the silver balls

      8:15
    • 10. Dotty Ovals Earrings - soldering the silver balls

      9:42
    • 11. Dotty Ovals Earrings - preparing the earwires

      1:50
    • 12. Dotty Ovals Earrings - soldering the earwires

      6:55
    • 13. Dotty Ovals Earrings - finishing the earwires

      6:20
    • 14. Dotty Ovals Earrings - final thoughts

      1:46
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About This Class

Welcome to the Dotty Ovals Earrings class! This class builds on skills that I have taught you in previous earrings classes - making your own jump rings, melting scrap silver into little balls and, of course, soldering skills. However, don't worry if you haven't caught up with all of my previous classes before as I will still go through everything you need step by step! This time we will be reshaping the jump rings into smooth ovals with help from the rolling mill.

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This is one of a series of video classes, each one showing you how to quickly and easily make a lovely pair of earrings - sometimes two pairs - as part of my #52earrings challenge. I have challenged myself to design and film tutorials for 52 pairs of earrings in 2017, and I'd love you to join me. In each video I will show you the materials you will need, explain the tools and equipment and go through all the steps needed to create your own lovely pair of earrings. Along the way I will share with you the same hints and tips that I teach in my jewelry making classes and private tuition so that you become more confident with your techniques and design skills with each class that you watch.

This class is for beginner jewellery makers although some patience is needed with the soldering.

The equipment needed for the project is explained in the videos and also listed on a downloadable document that covers most of the tools that I will use in future earrings video classes as well so you can plan ahead! All the equipment listed can be used for a variety of other jewellery making projects.

Earrings #20 in the #52earrings challenge

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Meet Your Teacher

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Joanne Tinley

Jewellery Designer, Tutor and Writer

Teacher

I have been making jewellery for as long as I can remember, and have been passing these wonderful (and addctive!) skills on through my classes for nearly 20 years. I am self-taught and like many people I started with wire and beads. Learning how to solder, however, opened up a whole new world of jewellery making! There is something so magical about watching solder flow through a seam, joining two pieces of metal together smoothly.

My studio is in Southampton, on the South Coast of the UK. I design and make jewellery for galleries across the UK, teach regular and popular jewellery design workshops, and also offer private tuition. My jewellery design projects have been published in both UK and US magazines and books.

Visit my Etsy shop, Jewellers Bench Shop, for jewellery ma... See full profile

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Transcripts

1. Dotty Ovals Earrings: my name's John Tinley. I'm a jewelry designer Shooter welcomes the dirty in this house. We're going to combine several skills he may have already done in my previous video bounces . But don't worry. If you haven't had a chance to catch up with classes yet, we could still take you through everything you need for this project. Set bicep. I'm going to teach you how to make your own jump rings, a skill that can save you a lot of money as jumping. They're not cheap story finding survive. I'm going to build on the rolling mill skills I cupped in previous classes and show you how to use it to make round dumplings over I'll Go So how to make a little silver balls scrap? And then we put it all together to make a beautiful. This class is published. The 52 hearings changed except Myself 2017 to design film 52 coils for 52 different earrings. Look out, Harsh time. 52 hearings on Instagram and Facebook unite behind. So if you're ready, let's have a look at the materials and equipment that we're going to need to fight with lyrics. I get stopped 2. Dotty Ovals Earrings - materials: way materials that you're going to need to make this pair of earrings I've got to 13 millimeter inside diameter jump rings. I've made these out of 1.2 millimeter wire on Glacier in the class. I'll show you how I actually made thes because if you know how to make your own job friends that can actually save you a lot of money they're not cheap is thing two by I'm going to be turning these rounds jump rings oval to form the basis of the earrings. I've watched some scrap sheet silver left over from other projects. I'm going to cut that up into little pieces to melt the silver balls that would decorate the overall earrings on the air wires. They're going to be made out of no 0.8 millimeter or 20 gauge sewing silver wire. I like to use this gauge of wire to make my dear wives as it's still enough to pass through the holding your ears comfortably but strong enough to hold its shape once you hammer the air wise a bit 3. Dotty Ovals Earrings - equipment: way section of the class. I'm going to go through the handles you're going to need to make the earrings. The base of the earrings are a pair of jump rings made out of 1.2 millimeter wires. I said before Andi, I'm going to make those myself using the jump ring make or the coil wind er that you can see here. Andi, over while I explained to you more about how that is used. Once the why is wound into the coil, I'm going to wrapped in masking tape as that is going to help me to cut the coil into the separate links. I'm going to cut the coil with the jeweler's saw, and I'm going to support it on the bench players. I do so and there's always the leather apron underneath there to catch the dust on the debris that's going to fall down because everything it goes in the scrap pop, nothing goes to waste. I'm going to use the needle files on the emery paper to meeting up the jump wings offer sold them closed, and the other tools there are to help me finish off the ear wires. The rural obviously to help me measure out the amount of no 0.8 millimeter. Why I'm going to need for the ear wires, mostly going to use the flat needle file to meeting off the end of the year. Wise the night on your applies a flat nose pliers on the wire. Cutters are obviously there to cut the wire and then just helped form it into the air wires . I usually show you a step to Manjural that I used to wrap the wire around or turn the wire around for me. Dear wives, I always say that you can use a Sharpie instead. So this time I thought I actually would use a Sharpie instead. The wise we're going to be finished off with a little bit of hammering to strengthen them. And I'm going to use a punishing hammer. To do that. I'm going to hammer on top of the steel block with a leather cushion underneath to keep the noise down. The largest piece of equipment that we're going to need is the rolling mill is the most expensive piece of equipment. So I'm showing you. But I do use a lot. You can use it for a lot of fantastic projects and you'll be able to see some more projects in my other hearings classes. As this is a soldering project, I'm going to show the soldering kitsch next. 4. Dotty Ovals Earrings - soldering equipment: This is the soldier equipment, as I use for all of my smaller projects, such as earrings and sore pendants, everything sitting on a couple of slate tiles, a heatproof surface to help protect my desk on my work sits on a couple of soldering bricks , soldering blocks, while some heating it up. One of these soldering bricks is made of a softer material than the others. Because it's softer, it's picked up some dips and some cracks in it. It's being used over the years, and these could be very useful for supporting work that isn't completely flat. The charcoal block is there because I melt small piece of scrap. On top of that on. Do they form nice of my balls as I am used to decorate my projects when I need to pick up my work or to support it whilst I'm soldering? I used reverse action tweezers that you can see here and have also got a pair on a stand through 1/3 hand, and it's there when I need 12 on extra hands to help me out. The blue handled stick is a soldier pick on and that I used to push soldier move it about to make sure it it's exactly what I wanted to be. Soldier usually comes in strips or sticks. Andi, I've got three different melting temperatures here that I using combination for different projects. The soldier gets cut into small pieces or Palin's you ting. The red handles snips as I keep those little pieces in the labeled boxes that you can see do. Make sure that you label your boxes because once a soldier is cut up, you won't be hard to tell which is which. Melting temperature. My curl over the ends off the sticks of solder so that I can tell which melting temperature they are, the more cold over they are, they're higher. The mountain temperature, bright yellow liquid is a flux. Solder won't actually flow out through the joining unless you use a flux with it. Andi the paintbrushes. What? I used to apply the flux to the joints in my work, so he was also available in a paste form, its ground up soldier that's already mixed with a flux, so you don't need a separate flux. In fact, if you were toe adds the yellow Fluxus, I showed you it would stop this soldier pace from working properly. It's most commonly available in syringes with small tips that she can see here. You can also buy it in tubs and pots, just like with the traditional sticks or strips of soldier, so the pace is available in three different melting temperatures. Easy, medium and hard. I've just got easy and medium here. The easy is the one that's 268 degrees sent rate for amounting temperature. The medium is 732. Recent weight. As you can tell, the easy solder paste, is a favorite newer than the medium soldier paste. When you have a new syringe, it's best to pull back on the plunger after you finished using it. Otherwise, the soldier pace is going to continue to snake out of the tip a little bit, and you don't want to waste it because this is actually the most expensive way of buying soldier. I like to use the solder paste on projects like chains on door, so hollow beads sometimes might use it on sucking rings if I'm in a bit of a hurry, because one of the advantages sort of place is that the soldier usually stays exactly where you want it to be. Unlike the sort of Italians that can jump off as you start to heat the metal up, small projects like hearings only need a small blowtorch, and I've got two different makes of those here. Both of them are easy to refill with the gas that comes in aerosol cans since the same type of gas butane gas that you use to reform cigarette lighter. At the back of the picture, you can see a so cooker that Scots a very mild acid solution. Good safety pickle in it. When you heat silver up, the surface becomes not darker and dirtier looking that some of the capo in the study silver reacting with the heat and auction flame to forward cause copper oxides on the safety pickle cleans that copper oxides up. Before you put your work in the safety pickle, it needs to be cooled down or quenched in a pot of water. Andi, you need to put your work in and out of the safety pickle with brass or plastic tweezers, not the stainless steel ones that I showed you before, and thus, but definitely not least are her safety glasses. You've only got one pair of eyes 5. Dotty Ovals Earrings - making the jumprings: you can nowadays by stunning silver jump rings in a variety or sizes and made with a really good variety off gauges of wire. If you can learn how to make your oh, it definitely will save you money as I make a lot of jump rings. I've invested in a piece of kit called a jumping Maker or coil wind. Er, as you can see, it holds onto my desk with a clamp. It's got holes in it so I could actually screw up permanently in place if I wanted to. At the top, there is essentially a drill head or chuck that holds Mandel's of different dimensions. Andi, once the manuals in place, if you can see turn the handle, you can start to wind the wire around the Manjural so that you form a nice neat coil. Now you definitely don't need one of thes. You can wrap the wire by hand around anything that's of a suitable size. I sometimes use knitting needles to wrap wire around if I want to precise cited jump ring that doesn't match up to the set of the still Mandel's that came with this coil blinder. And most of those knitting needles I use will fit into the chuck on this wind er as well. If you're going to wind by hand, it just takes a little bit of extra care to make sure that you are getting a coil where the links lying up neatly against each other. And so you have to say he's a bit slower, although somewhat of what ways you can cut through them. My favorite way is to wrap the coil in masking tapes. You can see here because that way I can keep most of the coil together. Some of the other message allow the coil to get smaller and smaller and sworn as you cut through it. And I find that last section the coil really tricky to hold on to. So I prefer to wrap fish in masking tape. I then threat my sword blade through the middle and cut from the inside out. That way, I've got a less of a chance of my blade. So playing whilst I'm cutting Alfred damaging the other side of the coil. I support the coil on the bench Paige so that the blade can run up and down inside the coil . But I could hold the coil firmly on the bench play to get some support. I hold the blade at an angle, citing cut through from the top down to the bottom rather than holding it straight before held it straight up right as I would you. Normally, when I'm cutting through. So with sheet, then I'd be trying to cut through the whole coil at the same time. That's a good point to mention here that you don't want to form it too tall a coil. You need to make it short enough so that you do have room inside the coil for the blade to be able to tip oversight there for using my method. So if you're making face small jump rings, you're going to need to form a shorter cause. And I've got here for these 13 millimeters jumping some cutting at the moment, and now we have a nice new set of jump brings cut of ready for use 6. Dotty Ovals Earrings - soldering the jumprings: before I can change the shape of the rounds jump rings. I need to make sure that their soldiers closed. If you try and do anything toe open jump rings that was jumping is that aren't sorted closed. You've tried to hammer them or change their shape. Then all that will happen is that they're spread or spring open and you'd end up with a rather misshapen piece of wire that wouldn't be any use for your project. Before I consult Enclosed, though, I need to make sure that the joints a nice and neat I have to do this because so you won't fill any gaps. So So I'm going to do about the drawing up here. It's quite obvious on this one joining here, and I've got my friend is either side. I'm just going to twisted backwards and forwards on push it in on itself a little bit until it springs in alignment. Not so not nature I can compare. The two show that to this one is almost invisible. Some feel to make sure nowhere to the top. I'm going to push it on the soldering brick so she's up at the top here because once its tightly closed. It's a lot more difficult to see where it is. So I'm in the habit of always making sure what I learnt. The jump brings up on the soldering bridge should be soldered clothes that I put the soldier joined at the top and then I always, you know, worry chase. I have to worry about it. So this one close as well say spring it, move it closed that sort of that yet. Okay, here we go up at the top as well. So those now ready to solder I'm going to use solder paste for this project when the reason for that is that I find it a lot easier to use toe hold the balls on the why in place for the later stage in this project. If I'm using solder paste rather than soda, Palin's but salt Italians would work just as well. I've got three different melting temperatures of the solder paste here. Personally, I don't like to mix using solder paste with using soldier Palin's. So if I know I'm going to using soldier pacers on later stage in the project, I start with soldier pace, but just like the traditional former soldier. I've got hard, medium and easy soldier paste here. So three different melting temperatures, the highest melting temperature, medium dance, the lowest temperature. This one hasn't got a syringe at the ends because the syringe that came with it was so fine . I had great difficulty actually squeezing the soldier out. So I pick it out with the end of soldering make instead. And that's just us. Just Justus. Well, I'm going to be using hard soldier to soldier. These champions closed on day. I'm going to zoom in a little bit now, See? Gets a better view of what I'm doing when I'm soldering already. Put a little bit of soldier. I put the top of this one, so to paste on and squeeze a little bit on top of this one. So what? The joins up at the top and a little bit of hard soldier pace on each of them, which I'm going to do is take. Each one, in turn, can heat up around the bottom who remember, It's the heat, the silver get that gets the soldiers mountain flow. So I don't just want to focus up soldier here can he chucked out the bottom, and then, as the organization starts to appear on, does a silver starts to get on a bit of a reddish tinge, I'm going to brush up at the top. Make sure that ease aside, the joint is heated evenly so the soldier flows evenly across because the soldier will flow to the hottest part of the work. If I make one side to join hotter than the other than so growth towards this side, it won't floated. Join properly and you won't get a nice, tightly, neatly closed jumping on. That, of course, is what we actually want. I can torture heating up, down bottom. You can see the silver's going, but dark up in a reddish tinge across the top. When you go so much just seeing a flash of right silver as a soldier mouth still flowed. You can certainly see a lighter patch here, where the soldier patient that the flux in the pace prevented the ox ization from appearing around the joints. That's where the soldiers thrown out on the rest of this round. Here, I've got some ox ization. Remember, the organization is formed because sterling silver is 7.5% copper is added to give the alloy a little bit of extra strength on the copper turns to copper oxides in the presence of the auction in the flame on our clean us up in the pickle later. But let's get this this second jumping soldier first again. Nice flash of liquid motions. Soldiers. Still your soldier What silver silver hasn't melted. Thankfully, um, nice neatly across the joint there. So these notes need to be quenched to make sure they're cold before popping them in the pickle to clean them up. 7. Dotty Ovals Earrings - filing: Theo Jump Frings, now soldered close on dive. Double checked joins on each of them, both securely solder close, which is good if they hadn't sold it properly, perhaps if the soldier had flown toe one side of the joint rather than the other, because I hadn't heated evenly. Then I put the them back on the soldering brick. See if I need to add a little bit. Extra soldier might not need to. That's quite a bit still sitting on the outside the silver on. Then go to the process of heating them up again, Making certain this time has high heated evenly on both sides. If you've watched the Hamid links hearings class or the Hamid chain braces hearings class, then you'll know that quite often I will not worry about touching up the soldier, joining meeting off any excess solder until after I've hammered. Because that would the hammering does usually hide a multitude of sins on would hide the excess solder that she might just be out to see if I can get into focus for you. There we go. There's a bit of excess soldier on the outside of this, and the hammering would actually hide that. But this time in this project, I'm going to send the round links through the rolling mill on. That's going to stretch them over on that technique. Actually, readers highlight any excess solder. It makes it spread out to get a bit of a bulge on one side of the jump ring, and we don't really want that. So I'm going to use the needle files to meeting up the excess solder. I know I'm going to use some emery paper just to remove any marks left by the fire. So I'm going to use the flat file for sweeping round the edge. Here you can see the Silver Star suggest little bit shiny er where is being filed. So I'm just sweeping round to make sure it feels nice and smooth. You can check the file over a little bit to remove any soldier from this section as well. Also do the same. The 2nd 1 I'm not firing just at the soldier joined. I did that. I'd end up with a bit of a flat section there sweeping across, so I'm keeping flow of the shape I news your fingertips to check just as much as using arrives. Sometimes I feel more than using Arise. Your fingertips are really quite sensitive to even the smallest bumps. It's, um, happy with the outside. I'm going to use a overall rounded needle fire toothy inside. You always use the shape of the foul that fits the shape of your silver the best. So I'm going to go inside again and skin and searches filing in one place. I'm going to twist the fire a little bit. Go mainly forward because it's the forward motion that's actually files. But by twisting to the side a little bit, I'm making sure that I'm still following the shape of the silver. I'm keeping the flow of that shape. Hey, happy was that one. This will need a little bit more. Also just got a tank round into the side of a bit more as well to be of excess soldier on there. Hey, CSOs filed. I'm just going to use a piece of medium grade emery paper just to rub the edges. The to remove any marks left by the file. Normally, if I was sending a larger piece or sundering like a bangle or piece of silver sheet, then I would work my way through the great of Emery paper to make sure that it was a smooth as possible. But this join us so small. And also the rolling mill is going to help sloughs any mark south as well that I'm just going to use this medium grade and that define for right. Then those are now ready to become ovals by going through the running room. 8. Dotty Ovals Earrings - shaping the jumprings: this'd my lovely Dustin rolling mill that I'm going to use to turn the round jump rings I've got here into overalls. The rolling mill traditional job is to change the gauge off wire, uh, end of sheet and changed the profile of wire as well on dye. Do you use that? I do use it for that purpose quite a bit. However, you can do lots of other fun things with it as well as you'll be able to see if you watched by other hearings classes as the only mill works by turning the top, here's a handle of the top. You can see it turning because the sections turning Andi, you can see if I could write up your C and ice caps, starting to appear between how much falling down there. You want tohave a tight enough gap so that it squeezes on. But hold onto the silver quite tightly, but not so tight that it becomes really difficult to turn the handle. Here. It's this handle that turns the rollers to pass the silver through, so I'm going to wind this back down again. I'm not going to say just it was quite I said, he can't push it through my fingers. No, open it a little bit more, so I can just about start to pass it through. So I know that that is Yeah, it's only to pitch loose, probably, but because I'm not putting a texture on this, if I was using the Rolling Mills, put a texture on this. I've done in some of my other video classes being quite often get just one go, so you have to make sure that you set up the gap between the role is really carefully. What I'm going to do with this is that each setting I'm going to send through 1st 1 of jump rings and then the other I always going to send it through the same direction each time I send food. Certainly stretch out oval if I change the direction each time, if I turn them around and send for a different way each time they'd end up a bit of a higgledy piggledy shape someone to be nice ovals by sending through. Both of them are the same setting. They are going to end up with a so close as possible. A zoo, a really good match, so I'm then going to after each passed through, tighten up the rolling mill a little bit further and keep saying come through until they are oval as I wish them to be. But I haven't made them too thin because obviously, as I'm stretching about that way, they're going to sing down this way. I don't want to get to you said so. Something else to mention. It's still just about see the joint here because it's like shiny er than the rest of the ring because that's being filed and sanded. I'm going to keep the joint on what will be the long side. So it's just stretch out this site this way. So these sites here are going to end up to be the long side to the over. When you're making something round into an oval shape, it is best to keep the joint on one's along sides because it's going to have the least amount of pressure and strain put on it there. So I hope that in place pushed in there my son doing handle, try and catch the other side hasn't made that much of a difference yet. Might be hard to see that this is catching a light differently than this one. This one's being flattened out of it. This one hasn't so finally joining on this one. That was a good sign. I find difficulty finding where the joint WAAS shows me that I had needed it up nicely. Send that through again, hasn't shown to shape very much, so tight it up a little bit more, saying that one through. Send it through the same way if you have difficulty telling which way you are sending through the jump ring. If you can't tell where your joint waas then put a little Sharpie mark at the park that you're sending through the for first and by the time it's worn off will be really obvious which way you need to send it through. So just type it up a little bit more. You can see it's definitely becoming bit more oval now and the other one through. I do maybe one more and then have a look. I see that's made quite a difference. Should I show you that? Get me to focus. That one has been through one more time than this one, and you can see it is definitely a little bit longer, Andi. It also looks the while. Looks a little bit wider. Send through this one. Okay, so I am happy with those definitely overalls. Rather circles. Andi, they're not too thin. They still kept enough. Strengthen their But I'm happy with those. So I'm going to move on to the next stage on solder the silver balls in place. 9. Dotty Ovals Earrings - melting the silver balls: It's now time for one of my favorite bits of this project melting the silver balls I'm going to use to decorate the ovals. So I've used the snips from soldering kit to cut some of the scrap sheet into smaller pieces. 1234 There. I don't tend to put too many pieces of scrap on the the child Hope look once, because if I do, then they tend to rolling together, emerge together on I don't want them to do that. I don't want to get too big, but I need three silver balls for each hearing. But I'm actually going to melt quite a few more than that so that I can pick and choose from them and choose Thebe best three pairs to go on the hearing, so the earrings are closely matched as possible. The extra silver balls will always get used for other projects, so don't usually flux for this so you don't even soldier. You just need a blowtorch. And two he each the silver until it melts and it bulls up along on its own and see what I mean about it rolling around on the firebreak. You see what I mean about it rolling about on the charcoal block. I tend to keep thief. I keep the flame on the silver for longer than it takes with just to melt. I keep it on their own, so it's really, really nicely round. So I'm going to go ahead and melt the other three. Andi, think up some more pieces and melt those as well. - Move that 1st 1 out of the way before I melted the last, but I knew there was a chance that they would run into each other. - Remember that the hottest past. The flame is just in front of the blue tip, so that's a part that you want to focus on your silver. - I went back and gave the 3rd 1 that are mounted if this set a little bit extra heat because I could see that it wasn't quite around enough for my liking. Going to one last lot make these once a little bit smaller this time, so it's like a good selection sizes to choose from. But this small you're going to see if I can fit a couple more. - There's a nice little collection of the silver boys I just mounted and you can see how much crap that I've got left over from the two pieces of silver sheets I showed you earlier. Now you notice that some of the silver balls haven't got any oxygen ization a tall. That's because without me realising, I've actually picked up out of my scrap pot. One piece of sterling silver scrap sheet. Andan other piece of fine silver as the find silver doesn't have any copper content, there's no copper oxide ization formed. I'm still going to put them all in the pickle, though, just to make sure that any little crumbs of the charcoal brick that might have come away with them are cleaned off on. Once they're nice and clean, I will choose the three best much pairs and sort of thumb onto Yeovil's. 10. Dotty Ovals Earrings - soldering the silver balls: overall jump rings Nice flat oval jump rings on the soldier and brick Now Ondas wealthy finish on them being lovely and the shape being really nice. The fact that they do have a flatter a wider, flatter area means that it's going to be a much stronger Salter join when I solder the, um, we go high solder. The silver ball was in place, so silver balls have all being cleaned up. So we're now going to choose the best matches. Remember? I want three own each. Just choosing three fairly decent much was a little bit big that more months to escape is well, those ones would do my quite like the fact that I'm going to have three slightly different size balls on each oval. I'm just gonna pop thes ones away in a little hot. They will get used to something else. So three balls for each hearing. What I'm going to do now, it just puts a little bit off medium soda from syringe onto the back of each in turn in position. - You can see I'm putting them off center sometimes find that's a better thing to do than to try and go for dead center Because if you get debts, if you get some slightly off dead center, it can be really obvious. But if you deliberately go for quite a bit off center, they could not really Good. So the tricky thing now is going to get Thies too to match up. I might. You should do a little bit favoring about to get too much up nicely. - Oops , - I'm happy with those. I think I could keep fiddling about with them for ages and still not improve the way that they match any better. The next job, obviously is to Soldem in place just going to move them slightly further apart very, very carefully because I don't want to knock those balls. But this is what she why I have chosen to use pace so it will temporarily hold the ball was in place a little bit, just moving further apart. Service has I sold a one of them. I'm no heating the other one up too much. So when heat up all the way around and then focus a little bit more where the bulls are because that's where the most silver he's Yeah, that wasn't in the plan. Two of these are full enough. That one went back again. That's always nice when things go exactly according to plan while I'm fill me. But, well, it's not just not really life, is it? It took a little bit more fiddling about Why would light with their back in position? Would you like to leave little bits like this in the video that shows you that you can put things right if they don't? If they go wrong on that, things don't go right or the time. Don't panic. They don't stop reposition things and start over. There we go. Now you see here, that's that's been really light a patch. That's where the flux flowed out from the pace a little bit. You may have also seen a bull's Warburg little bit. Now that's what made him fall off before they were would a bit too much and then settled down a soldier underneath. Um, mounted on giving more when I spoke on their on their So let's see if we can do this second hearing, so to pick here, just in case things you start to move, started to go, you think gives me a bit of a poke. The hearing moves about what the bulls are staying in the same place, so happy with that those need to be quenched. They need to go in pickle on. And then I was sending to prepare the ear wives. Now, don't worry if a couple of balls do come off when you quench and you pickle is not unheard off or you need to do is make sure that everything's clean on and put a little bit more solder paste on there, put the ball will wars back in place and reheat again. 11. Dotty Ovals Earrings - preparing the earwires: way used wire cutters to cut to six centimeter links off the 60.8 Minami toward 20 gauge sterling silver wire. It's a little bit longer than I usually used to make here wise, but I want this to be a nice, long, elegant a pair of earrings. I'm gonna be soldering the ear wise to the back of the ovals at the top and to give the strongest possible soldier joint and also a nice, smooth finish. I'm going toe hammer out one end of each white of flatten it out slightly. So there's an increased surface area joint surface area between the oval and the air war. You can use the flashing hammer to do that. I'm just going to hammer to the very end was quickest that on defy Hold the two together and moving around the light a little bit. You should be able to see that this one has got a flatter section at the end on this one's still round. You do seem to this one Okay, that's all that's needed. One last thing I'm going to do is use the needle file just to smooth around the edge on that round. Second, same just helps to make everything as nice and neat and is beautifully finished. It's possible those are now ready for the last bit of soldering. 12. Dotty Ovals Earrings - soldering the earwires: way different components for the earrings and now ready on. Thankfully, the balls stayed firmly in place when the ovals were quenched pickled. If they had come off any point, then I would have just put them back in placements. They're cleaned up with a bit more soldier. And he stuck to re melt the solder. Andi hopefully this time, soldier in place. But thankfully they behave themselves. Of what? The two ear wires as well. But I've hammered out here the hammered ends at this this end of the block they've being hammered out and they're now prepared. I'm usually I show you first of all before I do any more soldering how I'm going to mark the earrings, starting at the ear wives in the right place. I was shopping. Take the first hearing, the first oval on and this orientated so that the length of it is definitely running across that way. On dMarc the best as I can. The midpoint that the chop I'm going to do the same with this one as well. Hold it lines up by I and again the midpoint bring a Sharpie to work for the chop. Okay? I don't want to transfer that mark onto the back because that is going to be where I put the ear. Why? So I'm going to mark across the top there, will see, have marked on the edge, turn it round, and then extend that mark down the back. So I'm taking it from the front where I could see really clearly where? Which way up? I went to the earring to go because the bulls on the bottom, taking over the top and down the back the same with this one. The sharpies got nice fine points, but it does mean that, um, they can dry out quite quickly. There we go. So special. So I've now got the positions marked on the earrings where I want to put year wise and move these out the way I'm going to deal with one hearing at a time on dime soldering again on the older, softer soldering blocks that's really got the dips and holds into it so that I can find the best position they're going to put the earrings because also, they can't sit flat on this one because of the the balls. It wouldn't be so easy to solder. They walk about a bit, so I put that there go. I use hard soldier to soldier, earthy, jumping closed. I used medium solder to sold the boards in place. So this time I'm going to be using easy soldiers to put the ear while in the back. I've got the syringe off Easy soldier here. Push, let's put up. Remember that? So I said the syringe tip was so tiny that it was difficult to push and paste out. So I'm going to just scoop of It's on the end that I was going to hold that in reverse action. Tweeze is so what solder on Denise so that I can just put it in position on the back of the hearing. The first thing I'm going to do is actually melt the soldier onto the ear Y first so that it's in places and smear across the back of the hearing and make a bit of a mess. He shut the whole thing. Okay, soda. Now blow up on the end of the A one they're going to do is put a bit of heat into the airing with the beer wine position hopefully saw the liquid flush with solder melted and flowed. Vote out on and I also took shots of you, sir. There we go. It's the first, fearing completely sold it with the part that in quench parts and set the 2nd 1 up. So just put some of thought a paste on that beer wine as well. Andi repeat. No soldier in place. Oops, that's better. Fell off that just the soldier pages fell off onto the fire brick site has held the ear y up against the soldier on the fire brick. Andi as the soldiers. I two silver watch the right temperature. It's the soldier so drawn to it. So stop checking. Soldier is in the right place and says, I'm happy with that. I'm gonna get some heat. The hearing. I just went back a couple of times and made sure that the soldier had flowed out nicely. So we go. That's the second hearing. So again, that needs to be quenched on both earrings need to be cleaned up in the pickle, and then I'll show you have formed your wise 13. Dotty Ovals Earrings - finishing the earwires: Theo earrings and clean and fresh asked the pickle. So all that's left for me to do is formed the air wires and give them a lovely polish. The first thing I'm going to do is use the night on your pliers just to smooth out and straightened out any kinks that are in the in the while with one to next thing I need to do is make sure that they are both the same length, because I know I cut some to the same length, but sometimes hammering on soldering amongst to the back and make him so different. But no data. Was he good? I'm happy with that. So no need to form the ear wise. I did say that this time, after spending so many videos saying you don't have to use a step Mandel you can use a Sharpie. I'm going to use a Sharpie so never like that links. So the 1st 1 bend the wire around quite smoothly. That's the 1st 1 And if you've watched in my other video class, did you know the second tier wire? My former little bit so lower, even though I'm rapping well, something different this step Mandel's action still, exactly Say, Hold the wire in place my thumb and then use thinks of some of the other hand to pull the wire around, so hold him up against each other. That she has a pretty good match is not often that some the second Deering get spent it in the right place the first time. But I'm happy with that. So getting matched up again? Yeah, that's good. So just a couple more job stuff to do. We're going to use the Planet Shing Hammer to hammer just the front section on each ear wire. That gives it a lot of strengths. So in order to protect the rest, the earring with a hang that off the edge on just hammer lightly so we can see when I move that around in the light that this area here has become flatter, and that's helped to make the shape that you shape. It's spring here is holding its shape a lot better movie is saying to the second hearing. Some people like to hammer the whole section. You can also hammer the whole bit the front here if you want to zone, say damage Natural hearing itself Personally, I prefer not too far not to hammer rather any further than this section here, because I preferred not to have a flatter section going so my my ear. But I know that something doesn't particularly bother other people. Master preference. I think that section so now going to flick out with the flat nose pliers, just the wits of the flat nose pliers Flick counts that section there it's It's a much more professional look, and it also helps securing the earrings as well. So, again, just the wits of apply ice on flick it out slightly. Who for the earrings to come out of your ears if your ears hold your ear is here. You don't have to turn and then again turn direction again to come out that last little bit . So it's just little Red Security. So I think most people you would notice you're hearing was like that was a just hold him by that last little bit. So I now need to do the last bit is just to make sure that those ends a nice and smooth and comfortable to go through your ears when she use a needle. Far to do that again, you can use different tools to finish off the end. You don't have to use a needle file. Sometimes people will use a course. Emery file for you. She's funny nails. You can also get a tool called a cup ber or Burke Hup! That is the cup of metal by the stick. And inside the cup there are 40 C pushed on the end of the wire. Twisted round. I have all of those. I still prefer doing it by hand with the file again. Something else that's a much your preference. Remember to use your fingers as much as your eyes to make sure that feels nice and smooth. One pretty pair of earrings. I just need to polish them now. I'm going to put my tumble polisher. You could use a polishing cloth if you wished. Andi, I will show them to you or nice and shiny once they're polished up 14. Dotty Ovals Earrings - final thoughts: Well, that's not a great pile of hearings collection, but hopefully you've also found this a useful video class to show you how to use on the skills are covered in other video classes in other designs. As you may have noticed, I like to guess as much as possible out of each piece of equipment that I bought. After all the piece of equipment I've invested in Andi, I want to get my money's worth out of them. So, for example, the coil wind er, this allows me to write easily and quickly make jump rings. I used that to make jumping Seiken use in a wide variety of different projects. Former chain bracelets to soar job offerings of salami. Put one a section of the jewelry attached to another two earrings of different sizes and different shapes. As you can see here, this is another great projects that uses very little in the way of materials on also allows you to use very easily some of scrap. You've got left over from other projects, so it makes it a very affordable project. I have a great one for making a quick pair off earrings for present. I hope you enjoy the class were great. If you could leave a review to help our students, do you remember two down over the equipment? Lis, I also remember this. I'm here if you have any questions. It was also a great if you could upload photos off your projects of your finished hearings . I always enough to have a look at those. Thank you for watching.