Digital Photography Basics - Menus, Settings & Buttons | Michelle Storm | Skillshare

Digital Photography Basics - Menus, Settings & Buttons

Michelle Storm, Fresh photography tutorials

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6 Lessons (28m)
    • 1. 15MINCameraBasicsIntro

      1:27
    • 2. 15MINPhotoSchoolCameraBasics

      4:23
    • 3. 15MINPhotoSchoolCameraMenu

      4:24
    • 4. 15MINPhotoSchoolmultifunctionbuttons

      6:09
    • 5. 15MINPhotoSchoolEyevsCamera

      5:46
    • 6. 15MINPhotoSchoolfstopnumbers

      5:30

About This Class

My 20 minute PhotoSchool guide  on 'DSLR Camera Basics - Menus, Settings & Buttons is an easy to follow video tutorial to help you understand and navigate DSLR camera menus, camera settings and buttons. If you've ever wondered what some of those buttons do, or how to change basic settings and start moving away from the Auto mode, then this short class will provide you with some answers.

Transcripts

1. 15MINCameraBasicsIntro: So this course is for the hobby photographer, the new photographer with a new digital camera that's not quite comfortable yet with what the camera is capable off. Or perhaps you need a refresher course because you haven't picked up your camera in a while or you just want to start moving away from the automatic mode and understand ALS the possibilities that your camera aken off for you. If you're the type of talk that it likes to get out and about with your camera taking photos of your friends and your family, perhaps you like taking your camera with you on holiday. This course will help you become more comfortable with your camera. It's settings what it's capabilities are, and you'll start enjoying taking photographs more than having to think about the process of taking the photograph. I'll use a combination or visual demonstrations and step by step guides and walking through the key functions of your camera, access in the menu, changing settings and helping you become more comfortable and confident with your camera in your hands. I'm excited to get started, so let's get on with it 2. 15MINPhotoSchoolCameraBasics: Firstly, I just want to give you a quick tour off a film camera in its key functions, and I know this is a digital camera cause, but I want you to just see how simple camera really is when you strip away all the modern additional computer technology that digital cameras now have. I mean, my best voters were taken with this simple, beautiful camera, and it only has a few key functions. You have the dying on the top, which shows the shutter speed settings, and this is a fantastic option because it's quick Teoh access, easy to change. And it's one of the cities that you want to be able to change easily and quickly from voted . Photo shutter speed is how slow or fast the shutter moves, opening and closing, allowing the light to pass through and hit the sensor at the back of the camera. Only the photographer controlled the speed off the shutter speed. By changing the shutter speed number on this camera, it's by choosing specific numbers on the dial on the top of the camera. These numbers of the same numbers that are still used in digital photography today and you will see them in your LCD screen or in your view finder. The numbers are fractions of a second or whole seconds, if usual shutter speed at very slow setting for something, for example, like night photography. So this is 1/15 of a second, and you'll now be able to see the difference between shutter speed settings so that little flash of light was where the shutters open and closed 1/15 of a second, allowing the light to come through for 1/15 of a second. Now I've changed over 250th of a second, and you'll see that the shutter speed is now quicker, and there is less time for that light to travel through and a thousands of a second you can barely see the shutter opening. Closing so higher shutter speed number is a faster shutter speed, which in turn reduces the amount of time that the light has to travel and hit the sensor in the back of the camera. This is another way of controlling the amount of light that your images being exposed to because you got your camera lens where the light first enters, the camera travels along the lens and through the aperture. The amount of light is controlled by the aperture size, which is chosen by selecting a specific F stop number again. These are all accessible on the outside of the lens. Andi really quick to change as and when you need them also on the lenses of focusing ring, and that helps you focus the subject so that it's clear and not blurred. You'll find in your own digital camera, you will be able to switch from either automatic focus mode, which is a F mode, or you can change it to a manual mode, which means that you were controlling the focus in by moving your lens left and right to change the focus. If you use your or to focus mode, the cameras doing that all for you. There are a number of ways that you can set up your all to focus mode specific for different types of photography. But I will be covering this in a separate class so you have a camera body which you place the film inside, and the film is the equivalent to your camera sensitivity to light your ire so setting with old film cameras you would have a specific speed of film that you put in the camera in this particular camera. You would use the dial on the back of the camera to remind you which film you had in there , so that you were not under exposing or overexposing. 3. 15MINPhotoSchoolCameraMenu: this class will cover key aspects of your camera menu navigation around your camera menu so that you can find access and change key settings. On completion of the session, you'll be able to navigate the menu buttons and settings on your camera. You'll start to recognize technical information on your camera screen. Let's take a look at some camera menus. Have you got your camera with? You may find it useful to turn it on and open up the menu and follow the navigation instructions on your own camera. As I walk through the main areas on, I'd like you to access the menu eso look for the menu button and then go to camera settings , which is the camera icon within your menu. Now, if you think of your covers a computer, those of you that work with pieces will see that the camera menu is a similar formula. It's a fairly standard filing system, and it consists of a menu tab, our pages and then linear access files to specific information. Many tabs on the canon and Sony camera running along the top of the screen on each time is an access page to a set of specific functions. So, for example, the camera icon axis is setting specific to how your camera takes photos. The Spanish icon, or sometimes it's shown as a cork, which is a settings icon. Um, it's specific to how the cameras set up. Now, Once you've accessed the page that you want to get to, you can then scroll up and down to a specific function. But be aware that you may have multiple pages for each tab. For example, on this camera menu were able to see that it's indicating that were within the camera's settings. On Page three, which has given his access to the metering mode, the Fuji and Panasonic cameras have their menu tabs in a left hand side bar with linear pages. For the tab that you are in to the right to access the linear pages, click the right hand side of the rock of our and unusual rock, about to tell the camera which direction in the menu you want to go. So if you want to scroll up, then used its top of the rock a bar, and if you want to scroll down, use the bottom of the rock a bar they used the right hand side of the rocket ball. Once you're in the linear page to change the actual setting and use the left hand side of the rocker bar to return back to the menu tab. And then again, up or down on the rock of our attitude, a different menu tab page, and if any point you want directs it the menu, then you press the back button. That way you rock a bar or the crocodile to scroll up and down, left and right to select and change functions. And now that you know how to access your menu, I'd like you to find select the I S O your white balance and your image quality. 4. 15MINPhotoSchoolmultifunctionbuttons: Some cameras have extended buttons that wants to give you access to these settings, which really useful because there a quick way of accessing functions and changing settings without having to go in via your menu. So, for example, this is on a D 7 50 Nikon D 7 50 this is a multiple function button, one of which is the excess in the white balance, which is then shown on the LCD screen there. So WB Auto two means that the white balance is currently set in an automatic setting, and it's the number two automatic center setting that this particular camera office again, this is a multiple function button, and it allows me to access my eye eso without having to go into the menu. And that information there is telling me the setting for my eyes. So which is currently at 320 you're likely to have a dial somewhere on your camera that you use in conjunction with pressing these buttons toe. Activate them, and on this Nikon D 7 50 I have a dying at the front, but it does have a dial at the back, but like you just check now to see if you've got a back dial on the front door. Or maybe you've just gotta back dial on and start seeing how that effects what's showing on your L C D screen if you press it in relation to another button. So, for example, this one says quality, and it's also got the magnifying glass and a magnifying glass button. If I press it when I'm using the playback button, which means I'm looking at my images that I've taken it will make the image largest so that I can see it in more detail. But if I press that button in relation to one of my dials, it will give me access to mark the quality off my image, which means I can change it from a J peg toe, a raw file or largest size with smaller size. And that's the information at the moment. So I know that my current setting for the quality of my image is a raw file. It is likely that these multi function buttons will control things at your ire, so your white balance and your image quality you need to check your own camera manual to see what your buttons access other areas that they're likely to control. It will be your F stops in your shutter speed, because when you're in manual mode, these are the things that you're changing regularly, so you need a quick access to them, rather than having to go back through the whole menu system to change them and a few useful extras. We've got your view. Find division dial close to your viewfinder, which is the little window that you looked through to see the image. And it's a dial that you can regulate and move it up or down to make it more compatible with your own eyes site. So if you take your camera, focus on something, focus the lens either in auto focus or manually and make it as clear as possible, and then change your dial by the viewfinder to see if you can actually get it even clearer . And then that will be in tune with your own eyesight. The plus and the minus button in the square is called TV compensation, and even conversation is a quick way off, getting more light or less light into your image. So if you're finding that you're under exposing or over exposing. This is a short part to giving you a little bit more like or a little less light, and it works in a plus and minus over C. If you go towards the plus side off the number and system, your adding more light. And if you go to the minus side off the system, you're taken away light. So if you've got a finish that too bright you want to bring the light down, you would go towards the minus numbers and bring it down that way. Just be aware that when you're in program mode, it will either change the Apertura the shutter speed in order to get more light or reduce the lights. And if you are in the shatter mode, it will change your aperture in order to increase or decrease the light. And likewise, if you're in your appetite remote, it will change your shutter speed so we will go into for more detail about the camera modes in the class on camera modes on. I will explain that in more detail. Now, this little symbol is for your light metering mode, so there are various ways that you can set up your cameras so that it reads light in a certain way. Once we go into that section, that will become clear up at the moment. I'm just showing you what these different symbols are on. The last one that I want to show you at this stage of the course is the little Red button, which is for video recording. So if your cameras capable of video recording mobile in Red Button somewhere and when you press that you go into video record. 5. 15MINPhotoSchoolEyevsCamera: in this session. We're going to look at how the I vs the camera comparison can help you understand what's going on in your camera in a really simplified way in this s and we're going to cover the similarity between the human eye and the camera will also cover with an aperture iris. And then we'll take a look at how approaches control lights, and I'll also introduce it to the I S O. Every camera used today is designed like a human eye. And it's these similarities that I'm going to look at to help you understand a little bit more about your camera in a more simplified manner so that you can start moving away from the automatic mode and take your first step towards the manual mode from the surface of the eye is the cornea. And I'd like you to think about that being the same as the front of your lens on your camera, like troubles through the cornea in the same way that it travels through the lens of your camera. It gathers that external lighten. It sends it right through to the virus in the same way the external light travels through your camera lens, and then it's controlled by the aperture. So think of the cornea equal in the front of the camera lens. No, this comparison the iris in your eye, which is the muscle structure that opens and closes your pupil, is the equivalent of the aperture in your lens. The iris is the muscle that contracts or dilates and in turn is reducing or increasing the size of the pupil in your eye. In the Apertura. Inside your lens is the mechanism that determines the size off that aperture, which we refer to as the F stop. So in our comparison, the iris in the eye is the equivalent to the aperture. Think of the F stop in relation to the size of the pupil. Really allow the F stop is is a numbering system. It's a way that we as photographers, can understand which aperture we've chosen. Think about it. We can't keep turning the camera around to look down the lens to see if we've got a small, medium or large aperture. But if we learn the F stop numbers, we can start to understand that each F stop number represents a particular size in the aperture. And when we start changing, the Apertura were then changing the amount of light that's entering through the lens. And we're either increasing the light by a larger aperture or with decreasing the light by a smaller aperture. Now, in this comparison, the pupils doing something very similar. The size of our pupil is determined by the amount of light. So then do it this way. If you went out into the bright sunlight, your pupil will naturally retract. It will get smaller and therefore reduced the amount of light that's traveling in through your eye. And it does this in order to protect the retina at the back of the eye, and also so that you can see an image clearly without it having too much light and becoming too bright to see what you're looking at. Conversely, if you went into a subdued light environment like a room with lamplight darkened area, your pupils will get larger. They'll expand because they now need to try and absorb as much light as possible in order to make the best off the subdued light that's available. If you think of your F stop number, which is telling you how large or how small your aperture is in your lens. Within this comparison, think about your pupil size in bright conditions or dark conditions. It will help you understand your F stop aperture combination. My last comparison is the retina and the camera light sensor, which is also known as the I S O retta, is based at the back of the eye. And this is the equivalent to the light since the meter at the back of the camera. So I reckon measures the light that has travelled from the cornea through the pupil controlled by the iris. And in the same way, our camera light sensor at the back of the camera, also known as the I S O, measures the light that has travelled down the lens and through the aperture. What is the equivalent of the retina in the camera? Do you know what? The equivalent off the irises in the camera. And now write down what you think the equivalent is off the pupil in the camera. On the last one. I want you to feel in both science off the comparison. It's the surface of the eye. What's the name for that? And what is that? The equivalent off in the camera 6. 15MINPhotoSchoolfstopnumbers: Okay, We're gonna get a little bit more technical now because I'd like to just clarify this F stop numbering system, as we determined. Yes, stop is a numbering system, and you may have seen things like F 2.8 F four F 5.6 F eight only there within your LCD screen through your viewfinder on some cameras. They're actually on the outside of the lens. But for most modern day digital cameras will probably see this information within the LCD screen or through your viewfinder. Well, you need to know at this stage is that it's a numbering system that helps the photographer understand whether they've chosen a small, large or medium aperture. Most new photographers get a little bit confused about the numbering system. A large aperture is represented by a small left stop number. So if you open up your aperture because you're in dim light and you want to get more light in, you would choose a low numbered F stop. So you just take the F away and just think about the numbers 1.4 to 2.8 their low numbers and they or large apertures, which allow more light in at the opposite end of the scale. If 11 F 16 F 22 you take the F away, you've got 11 16 22 their larger numbers, but they are actually representing a small aperture, so you use a larger number when you want less light because you're closing down the Apertura and therefore you're restricting lights in bright day lights. You choose a higher F stop number if you want to use your your aperture to reduce the light . And that is the F stop monitoring system. You going outside the lovely day and it's bright and sunny. Think about what your eyes are doing. Your pupil will get smaller because it's very bright. Doesn't need that amount of light hitting the restaurant at the back so it becomes small and just do the same video camera. Make your aperture smaller because you won't need so much light in the same way. If you're going into a darkened room on your eyes, dilating the pupil gets bigger to allow more light in. Do the same with your camera. This is just a really quick and easy way around, too, remembering which way you want to put your aperture in those types of conditions. Now let's see if you can match the eye with the F stop. I would use that your F stop 2.8 or 16. Would it be a low number or high number? Would you want more light, less light? Just take a few minutes to think about it, and then just make a note for yourself. Bright sunlight. Would you set your F stop at 2.8 or F 16? Okay. And if you were taking a federal being very low light, would you be more likely to set the F stop it 1.4 5.6? I just think it's very logically what your own eyes doing on a cloudy day outdoors. What range of F stops do you think would be suitable to use? Do you think it would be large if stop numbers like 22 16 11 or smaller Stock numbers 1.42 point eight What would it be? The mid range numbers? 3 45 five 5.6. Have a look at your own camera and see what numbers are coming up in your L C D screen. We're in your viewfinder. I wanted to say congratulations. I hope you have a greater understanding of your camera now in the f stop. This is just the first stage in many stages as I'm breaking down the whole course into micro sessions like this so that you can choose gets that irrelevant for the areas that you want more knowledge in. But I hope this has been helpful and I look forward to teach you in the next class.