Denim Drawstring Bag using Reclaimed Materials | Jennifer Asbury | Skillshare

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Denim Drawstring Bag using Reclaimed Materials

teacher avatar Jennifer Asbury, artist, designer, welder

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

19 Lessons (1h 37m)
    • 1. Introduction - Welcome to my sewing room!

    • 2. Supplies needed

    • 3. Assemble pattern & cut out

    • 4. Let's Begin - Stitching pockets

    • 5. Stitch lining part 1

    • 6. Lining part 2

    • 7. Optional - Ham it up - pressing tips

    • 8. Stitch outer portion of bag

    • 9. Sew lining to bag

    • 10. Turn bag right side out and smooth top edge

    • 11. Top stitching tips

    • 12. Stitching upper part of casing

    • 13. Stitching lower part of casing

    • 14. Optional - marking machine for casing

    • 15. Stitch lining shut

    • 16. Thread cord and we are done!

    • 17. Optional - embroidered pocket

    • 18. All fabric version

    • 19. Final thoughts and THANK YOU!

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About This Class

Stitch an adorable drawstring bag using reclaimed materials, perfect for knitting or crochet projects or use as purse! Hate to throw away those old jeans that were your absolute favorites? You don't have to! You can re-use them and create a really cute bag.

Urban Threads - GREAT source for hand and machine embroidered designs

Fun Flower Accessory in Minutes - make the adorable flower shown on denim bag

Namemaker - fabric labels

Meet Your Teacher

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Jennifer Asbury

artist, designer, welder


Hello, I'm Jen.

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1. Introduction - Welcome to my sewing room!: today we're going to make this adorable bag made of an old pair of jeans that has multiple pockets in it. On the outside, it has pockets on the inside. It's fully lined and made with a simple drawstring. Closures of new buttonholes are required. You can also make the bag out of fabric. If you have 1/2 a yard of fabric, you can make this bag. Uh, well, whoever what you need if you're gonna make this variation but is very simple, straight stitching is all that is needed. You do need basic sewing skills for this class. This cost is not about teaching you how to sew. It assumes that you already know how. But it's very simple selling. If you've just learned to so you can make this bag, it's straight stitching, stopping and starting and that is it. So you could do that. You can make this bag, so let's go get our supplies and get started 2. Supplies needed: bag. First thing you're going to need to do is to download your pattern. Has three pieces to it, has a lower portion of the bag. It has an upper portion that it needs to be assembled. Okay, go over that in the next segment and then had a pocket. Um, we'll go over what? What these lines mean in the next segment, it gives you cutting directions or how many to cut and also let you know that is 1/4 and seam allowance for piecing. Next thing you need is a pair of pants. Women's size 14 to 16. You can get a pair at the thrift store for five or six bucks if you don't have a pair. But they do need to be big enough so that you can get your powder piece out of that. OK, so 14 to 16 on to do it. Next thing you're gonna need is your lining fabric. Okay, About 2/3 of a yard will dio, unless you wanted to make all four of the pieces in the pocket separate different fabrics. That would be really cute. So, um, you're lining consists of four pieces and a pocket. You can see there there's four pieces or 1234 and then our pocket here. So if you want to make it all different over really cute. So what does that? So let's talk about fabric for second and directional prince. Okay, this is a really cute print, and I didn't realize it until I wanted peace. It that, um it's these adorable little kitty cattle motorcycles. Okay, they're all going one way. And when I cut out the lining for the bag, I managed to get them all going in one direction, except for when I got to the pocket and she's actually upside down. So give them thought, You know, as you're choosing your fabric or if it doesn't really matter to you, that's cool, too. So about 2/3 of yard for your lining. Now, if you're going to make your bag out off any other kind of fabric like denim or starting fabric like quarter roid, you'd also need 2/3 of yard. I'm going to do a separate segment or making the bag entirely out of fabric, So if you don't want to do that, then you don't have to sit through that watch that, But it'll be there. Some other things that you'll need are measuring devices you can use is engage. Ah, little ruler like this is fine. Take measures, find whatever you have you just needle something to measure with. Um, we're going to need some scissors. So I've got paper, scissors, fabric, scissors. We're gonna need something to mark with, because at some point, we're gonna need Teoh because we get towards the end. We'll need to mark the sewing lines for this casing here. So a couple things about working stuff. This is a water soluble marking pen. I had an air erase one, but that disappeared so fast that I throw it out so at anything like that. But know that if you press this, it sets permanently. So make sure your mindful that this is a pastel pencil on this is great, because you can get a decent point on that. That works really well. This is called a chalker liner has chalk inside and a little wheel here and you roll it on your fabric and you market now worried about that? This'll project here. This bag that I made here I don't know if you can see it. But right there, you know, teeny, tiny bit of blue because I used a blue one, too. Mark my casing and it didn't come out when I washed it. So there you go. And then this is an old school marker. I think my grandmother's This is chalk, and you can mark on it. Mark on your fabric, whatever you want to do. But you'll need something to mark with. Okay, Thread. I like to peace in a neutral throttle. I use a lot of gray, but you could certainly match. You can coordinate. You can choose a you know, a bright color. Whatever you want to dio um, trim. Let's talk about trim or let's talk about courting. We're gonna talk about courting that you're gonna purchase for this. This is a nylon cord. It's about quarter inch wide. And that noise there is my obnoxious keys hawking, and who knows what their home king about. But they like to honk a lot. Anyway, back to the trim. This is nylon, um, cord trim. It's about 1/4 of an inch. Why, it's pretty starting. And I think you're gonna want something sturdy that can stand up to the opening and the closing of your bag. This is also a nylon braided tram record. I don't know, you know, whatever you wanna call it, but it's nylon. Could be used for a hoody. Maybe that's you know what it wasn't intended for, but something like that something that's fairly sturdy is what you want for this rate here , and you're gonna want to yards. You can get away with less, but to yours will give you plenty. If you wanted to go with less, you need to just make sure that you have enough to go around your bag and you need to pieces to do that so you'll have a cord that you can pull from both sides. Some things that maybe you want to avoid. It's going to be trim like this. This is a beautiful chord, but when you got it taped, when you on tape it, it unravels and it's very thick, and it does. Um, I don't think it would do well running through the casing back and forth. I think it would get fuzzy and fray after a while, so this is probably not what you want. This is abraded trim. Really pretty. Um, the thing with this again it's going toe unravel. So how are you going to prevent that? Well, what I would if I was going to use this, I think it would work because it's it's flat. It's not, even though it is kind of wide. I think it would work. What I would probably do is I fold it and then I fold it again. Maybe, and then so it tack it with my sewing machine. Probably do the same thing with this, you know, just folded under and then, you know, zigzag in place to so it down that I'll give you professional looking. Finish this one. I use something called Frey Check, and that's what this product is. It's been around so on the label fell off, but that's what this is. It will stop fraying on items like this, and I really just gloved out on there, and it's not coming on down any time soon. So something like that to finish you can also take ah, lighter or a match. But be very careful if you do that, because this is nylon. Basically, it's plastic. It'll melt. But be very careful when you're doing that, don't burn yourself. You watch. It doesn't get away from you. Okay, so I think that pretty much does it. You're gonna need some pens. Pink tomato is optional, but you will need some pins, and I think that will do it. So let's go gather are get your supplies and come back and we will get to cutting. 3. Assemble pattern & cut out: hurt way. Okay, now that you have your pattern printed out and materials gathered, let's go over putting the pattern together and then cutting out or pieces. Your pattern has three pieces to it has a pocket with directions for how much to cut of each, and it's 1/4 and seam allowance will talk about the slowing here a minute, upper portion, and then we have a lower portion and the lower portion gets attached right like that, so you'll match solid line to solid line and tape it down. So you can either cut this out or you can fold it, which is what I did and that I taped it matching. Like I said, solid line to solid line, this dash lines, just some extra paper there so that you can take to the back like, and this is what it looks like when it's done. Okay, so I folded my lower portion up on the sideline, matched it to the solid line of the upper portion and then just take back down. So does and, you know, flap around in the back. So there is your pattern piece for the bag and the lining and also gives you the amount to cut for each signee to cut four of your outer fabric and four of your lining fabric. Quarter inch seam allowance. This is the marking line for the casing, which will get to when we get to the casing. So there we go. So you'll simple that and then you're gonna start cutting out. So a couple things. I took my para pants and I cut a leg off, cut the leg off, and I also opened up the scene. I think these air like a size 12. So I'm kind of like, you know, have a little bit of trouble fitting in here, but you won't because you will have the right size pair of pants. I'm just I'm using what I have, which is kind of the cool thing about it. So the first thing we're gonna do is the pockets. So let's discuss the pocket. This dashed line here is going to go. You're gonna place this dashed line right on the top of your pocket. And so what this is gonna give you is enough of a seam allowance said that you can, so it if you cut right here, if you cut right along the top of the pocket. You have nothing to so too. So you need to give yourself a little bit of room. You could mark 1/2 an inch line, but it's already here on the pattern. So what? What I'm gonna dio is I'm gonna afford it about my dotted line, and I'm gonna place my dashed line right on the top edge of the pockets. You can pull back and see, or you can feel it. OK, I've got enough room all the way around here to cut. So the solid line is my cutting rolling pin this down or use my pattern weights or both, and I'm gonna cut out a pocket. Okay, Dr. Pocket. So, what? You have that cut out, then you are left with, uh, cutting out. The rest of the genes are the rest of the bag. So, like I say, I opened mine up because it was a little bit easier. I was fiddling around with with e seems, and it was kind of giving me a little bit of trouble. And you can see the difference between the size difference between the back leg on the front leg. So what? I'm gonna dio please take my pattern a little bit of this extra stuff. All right, New This allows me to see where come about out. And now I'm gonna fiddle around with placing it so my pocket will be cut out here. But I want to make sure that have enough everywhere else on. So just you know, opening that scene makes it a lot easier. So if you have to open up the scene, do it now. I did it on the outside edge because that the outside seam that's the easiest one to cut open, because then you're not dealing with trying to cut through this great here. So if you have to open up the scene, open up the outside leg seen. And now I will have It will be a lot easier for me to lay this out. I pressed it, and now I can wiggle my pattern in right where I need Teoh. And I'm not fighting this seam allowance. If your pants are big enough, you probably won't have to do this. But I had to do it because because that's what I had to dio so just just made my life a little bit easier. I'm putting it upside down because the leg gets wider as it goes up. If your pants are plenty wide, you name may be ableto put your pattern like this. It's going to depend on how big your pants are. Like I said, minor, a little small, but I'm making it work. And so if you were a little small to this is might be what you have to do to make work. So what, I'm gonna dio because I'm gonna cut pocket out, cut four panels for these which make up four sides of my bag, and then I'm gonna cut the lining. Okay, So, through the miracle of television video or whatever, I have done that already. Okay? Okay. So here is a pair of pants that I cut out earlier. Um, so I have my outside pocket leaving myself that that half an inch to about 1/2 an inch so that I can All right, so it I've cut out my lining. I've cut out for 44 pieces here for my lining pocket. So there's my lining. And here is the genes. This is a different pair, but I had to unserved that a little bit on the side seam in order to make that work. That's OK. Uh, so that worked out. Okay. I have a lining piece for my pocket. These will get so together, right sides together when we get to that point. And then I have two pieces for my pocket. My inside pocket. So this is my inside pocket matches that didn't have enough of this. So I'm using this. It all works. So mix and match use whatever you have. Don't go out and buy anything you know, spectacular or really expensive. Try it. See if you like the pattern first and then go buy more fabric if you like. Okay, so that's it. That's as far as that is the assembly of your pattern pieces and the cutting of your family . Okay, so we've got outside pocket inside pocket. We have four pieces of my outer fabric. Okay, four pieces of that, and then four for my lining. And then once you get that done and you've got your drawstring and everything, we are ready to sell. So that is the exciting part. There. Okay. Outside there. Okay. So assemble your pattern culture pieces and meet me back at the soy mission. 4. Let's Begin - Stitching pockets: way pockets first. So this is my inside pocket, and I am going to stitch right sides together using 1/4 inch seen I am using quarter interesting foot for my machine. You can use one of these, or you can use your throat plate or some some way that you know that you are stitching 1/4 of an inch is what you need to dio. So you're a stitch quarter inch and I'm gonna do what I call chains ditching. So I'm gonna put these two together and stitch, I'm gonna feed one into machine and then I'm gonna feed the other one in right behind it. Instead of pulling out, cutting the thread. I'm going to use my fancy little clip ease. You can use pins. My I just lined up nicely. Make sure everything is aligned and then viable stitch was that one. And then this is the right side of this family. Put right sides together. Make sure I allowing my edges and I'm going to stitch 1/4 of an inch. I'm using the neutral thread that I said I was going to use earlier. Amusing or gray really seems to blend a while into a variety of fabrics that you can match . Use beige Asia also works really, really well. Okay, You're you. I'm not gonna backtrack. I'm just gonna straight stitch. You can backtrack if you like. If you have a needle up needle down feature on your machine sometimes that's kind of because it kind of holds everything in place. And then you can pick up a stitch right in the end, and then I'm gonna feed this one in six money just a little bit better there and then stitch, - cut and press hot. I'm gonna get rid of that. So typically, what I do is I passed my seen open and then I will press it together. I don't know why. I think this works a little bit, but it works for me. Eyes all. I'm gonna say something. Press this open and they will press it together. I was giving a press. I'm using steam so people don't like to put steam in their iron. Um, you can spritz it if you don't have a steam setting on your own. So now that the seams Prester and I think it's easier than to match edges, so match on my edges. And now a press the scene. Everything is all matched up here. And then and now press here on a zay said the flower class on left handed. So I am sorry. I'm sticking my elbow and arm in your face. Okay, so there's her pocket stitched, and then I will top stitch it, and I'm gonna do the same thing for the dental pocket. So this one will probably wanna press, uh, to the heavy side with heavy side is pushing the lighter side of the fabric. Second kind of see how that is. And that's okay too. It really is. So this one, I won't press open, but I will press it to one side and then well, folded down on press. No. With this, I think it's actually okay and probably preferred to have a little bit of your outside fabric rolling to the inside. I think you get a nicer look. So would then when we go to top, stitch it, you won't have your pocket peeking out from the front so you can just roll. It may be just a little bit for your outside fabric. Just a little bit over and press it like that and then top stitch it down and I think that gives you a cleaner Look on the outside, if that makes sense. Sir, my my outer pocket edge is rolled slightly in to the inside, and I think that gives you a nice clean on the outside, minus the red possible. And so then what we'll do is we'll top stitch real close to this edge just to hold everything together, and it will make the assembly of the rest of the assembly much easier. I'm just being used for a for today. Now for top stitching. Um, I'm gonna change my foot. I change my feet periodically back and forth. You don't have to, but I dio because what I'm gonna dio is somebody use just this kind of like where the plastic meets the metal part right there. That's going to be my guide for my my top stitching. So some people like to change the pizza. Don't. It's OK. Use any kind of working that you want to top stitch about an eighth of an inch. That's about all you're gonna need. Get that away. So, um, because you don't have a whole lot of room here to top stitch on this one. You want to keep it real tight to the edge. So however you want to mork yourself an eighth of an inch for top stitching, do it either by using a foot or by using a marker, or you can eyeball it. That works, too. So now I'm going to top Stitch, and I hold my my threat tales when I start so they don't bunch up. I have a problem in the past. That may be something you want. Try top statues. Okay. And then I'm gonna feed this piece in, so I'm gonna actually lift up my presser foot a little bit just to talk this guy in. So it gets into the machine that will start feeding it right away. Now, this may cause a little bit of a problem here. May wanna shove everything over. Just let it do whatever it wants to dio. That's what it wants to do. Wants to show everything trying to be as consistent as I can. I think that's important. Consistent. Just be consistent. Mother of Atef, in 1/16 of an inch eyeballing it just been system. Okay? Current, sometimes When you're talking on the denim, it gets a little weird and wavy. It's OK. It'll be just fine. OK, so here are our pockets. We ever outside pocket, ready to go. We have our inside pocket ready to go. And now the next step is going to be 5. Stitch lining part 1: here label right here. Um, and I will put a link to where I got these, its place called name Maker. And they make all kinds of fabric labels and things like this and even have some my grandmother's labels still, so that's kind of cool. I use those every now and then. The first thing we wanna dio is we want to take one of our lining pieces. Yeah, right. Okay. In place. Our pocket on there. Okay. So if you just line up if you learned of the bottom edge of your pocket with the bottom edge of you're you're lining piece. Um, that's what all you need to do their I will. A couple pens in this. You can use the little cookies, whatever works, remember, do not. So, over your pins, your machine is not going toe like that. It's not like that at all. So I am painting this because it's a lot of layers of fabric and I don't want them to shift , So I'm gonna pin Okay, So here is one lining peace with my pocket, uh, lined up along the bottom here, lined up along the bottom. That noise that you hear are my obnoxious geese. Why they are squawking? I do not know. There is no rhyme or reason to them. They just make a lot of noise. There's a truck outside. Could be the township salting the roads were in the middle of the nor Easter here. It's snowing today, so it's a good, great data. It's a great data. So it's a great day to film a class on still share. So I am gonna pin my, um my lining. Okay, so I have my the one piece with with pocket that I'm gonna take another piece right sides together and serve that. Okay. It's like a wind up. Okay, something a stitch starting at the top all the way down to this corner. What I'll do is I'll drop my needle in right at that corner. I'll turn a pivot and I'll go to this Great here. So I'm gonna go down here, turn and go. Teoh here. Okay, I'm gonna do that for both of my pattern pieces, however. Okay, so this is the woman has the pocket. The one that does not have the pocket. I am going to leave an opening, but this right sides together, right sides together can. And then when I So I am going Teoh leave an opening so that I can turn my bag and I'll probably leave it somewhere in here. I want to make sure that I am below where we're going to stitch the casing. Okay, so we'll make sure below, and that's about it Casing. Uh, if you came down three inches, you have plenty of room. So if I want to make sure that I'm below my casing, I can measure down three inches and no, you know that if I place my opening anywhere below that I'm good to go. So So what I'm gonna do is just wear this pin is, And in between here, I'm gonna leave a couple injure, opening two or three inches. I always a lot of times I make it way too small, and I always regret it. So do do leave a big enough opening, because once you get this sewn the bag Denham, it's pretty bulky. So leave yourself enough enough room to turn it. You'll thank yourself. Okay? And I want to. So I want to make my opening on a scene that doesn't have the pocket. Okay, so not not on this scene where the pocket is or where we're going to sit on the other side because it's a lot of ultra so through, because we'll have to hand. So that scene. Okay, so let's just review out within. The other thing I need to do is stick my cute little label in somewhere. So stick that this is my pocket. So I'm gonna stick that where the pocket is. I'm gonna put rate above the pocket so I can see it whenever I reach into my pocket. So I'm gonna place it there, right on the scene. Take that pin and I'm gonna pin it in place, and then I'll pin this back together. Sorry. Right. So let's just review real quick what we're gonna dio We have placed our pocket on one of the lining pieces. We took another lining piece, replaced it face down, and we're gonna stitch from the top down to the corner, pivot and turn and go. Go to the point. That's one section were lining for the other one. We just have to lying pieces. And there they go again, squawking and carrying on two lining pieces right sides together. Okay, Uh, making sure that I'm coming down at least three inches and I'm gonna leave an opening Gonna leave an opening in the side Seen somewhere below three inches cause ever gonna be plenty of room to get below Where the casing is only And so I just remember that got out of the way And when I am stitching and I'm leaving my opening I will back tack So I'm gonna take you back Tack a little bit there by attack a little bit there And, um, I'll backtrack at the end and I'll probably back Tak up here too. So back to you know, see you go back and forth back forth were quick and same thing down here. Okay, so I'm gonna stitch that, and then we'll press and we're stitching using 1/4 of an inch. Still start top James foot, Because remember, I changed my foot to do the pocket change my foot to do the pocket. That's not that's number one. Here's my quarter inch foot way already stitching one a quarter of image. You don't have to change the feet. I do because it has. It's convenient. Has markings, you know, markings here, but I don't use this for Mr Jane Thistles. My pocket piece. I'm gonna stitch all the way down. Not stopping and starting being careful. Okay, So right in here is where my little label is that I penned. There is a pin there, so I'm gonna be careful. Generally don't like to serve a pins and just take my time. Nice and easy. I'm gonna actually reach inside and pull it out. It's not good for your machine to sew. Depends. I've done it. I'm guilty of it. Try not to. Okay, All right is out because EJ is having trouble getting over the bulk of the pocket, which is in there. So just lift it up and give it a little help there. Okay, Some approaching where I need to drop my needle and pivot in terms. So I am. I'm I'm in the needle down position. If your machine doesn't have that, you can use the hand wheel to turn we're and put yourself where you need to pivot and turn because you're gonna want your needle in the fabric when you turn. So I'm gonna come upon it. One more stitch My needle was down in the fabric on my pressure foot turn everything. If you are not close enough, that you have to do is just back up and do another state. She could use your hand wheel to bring you forward. One more stitch. If you need to happen to get that one just right, a lot of the quarter inch feet have a mark so that you know where that is. Um, you don't just I'm all the way through and attacked down here bottom and needle up. And there is one set next set. Make sure lined up here. Seriously, pockets. There's no middle labels in here, so I am free to stitch. I will need to make sure that I stop and start to amount for my opening. Some Right below we're gonna be just gonna backtrack. I left my presser foot, slide my fabric down, Start stitching again. Backtrack backpack here. Put menus my needle down cause I'm coming to my corn. We're gonna stop and pivot and come to the point. Okay? There's a pin. Get that out of the way. One more stitch left. My presser foot turned my fabric. Make sure my pieces are aligned properly. Down and continue. We were shift a little bit. I didn't pin them. Just rearrange point. You don't how we go. 6. Lining part 2: here's half, and this this will get certain. In fact, I will leave that pin in there so doesn't flapping around too much. Okay, so there's half of the lining. Here's the other half with my opening. Okay, so there is thread here. When I picked up and slid the fabric, there's a threat. I'm gonna call it for some reason you forget to leave an opening. You just also an opening. But try not to, because it's better if you do it beforehand. OK, so what I would do is I want a press. The seams open, Preston Earth in kind of get Give him a little bit of help Get started. Here comes my left hand in again in your face and I'm pressing in a press. I have a little meaning ironing board. We're just super handy for this kind of thing because this is just a little too fiddly Compress these urban. So this is where the pocket is just president been. You don't have to be really uptight about you know where the pocket isn't all Just press it open, Do something like that so they don't do this. Impress press as far as I can. I'm not gonna be really uptight about this. This is a bag. This is not a quote block. I don't think you have to be quite us precise with your pressing. You don't if you're making a quote block with a lot of pieces, Yeah, you do number for this. You don't press as much as you're like, Okay, you know where all this buzz is coming from? Get that away. And now I'm gonna press the other portion of the lining open. I really am concerned more about a two beginning pressing Open it at the beginning where when I have to do a lot of selling here and start putting a lot of seems together and at the bottom, That's really where I'm concerned about here and here. Down with the bottom. So press, you just see a little further away from the camera, and I'm gonna press the sky. But if I could get it open sometimes it's a little fiddly. This is the bottom of the bag. Procida. Been a Sfar as I can. It's enough. Okay, now it will be handy in the long run. In the end, if we can press open where we left an opening. Okay, My opening is right here. I can I want to press the serpent because it'll give me an edge to so to when I when I sell off, But the lining in the end, And in the end, you'll see. So I have a nice pressed seeing here. So when I go to whip stitch this shot, I'll have a nice, crisp edge to work with, and I'll be able to see what it is that I'm doing. Okay, let's put the lining together. So we have two pieces. We've got a piece like this with a nice big hole in it, and then we have our other piece, not with a big hole in it that has our pocket. So we're gonna go right sides together, and we're gonna pan, and we're stitch. So for this, you can use your clips, you can use pins. I would suggest doing something. Now, with this, we can stitch all the way around. Okay, so from one to the other, because we haven't opening here, attaching the pocket the rest of the way. Match up my corners. I'm gonna match the bottom. Now, here's where it's gonna be handy that I press that seem open because they'll fit nicely together. If you're a quilter and you wanna press 11 way and one, the other said the Nestle, that's fine, whatever makes you happy. And in fact, that's what I'm gonna do. What I do when I piece the outer portion for the bottom here because dentists are thick. I will do it that way, huh? We're pinning. Hey, on I'm pinning, and then I will be stitching, and then it will press. Hi. So make sure that I get pocket in there about that, I can feel the pocket right there, so make sure you get all that together so it didn't slip out. Things happen, honey. So now append. Okay, Right sides together, stitch all the way around. I will be back talking at the at the top beach, Get to the start. And when I stop and way also going needle down in my corner so I can pivot down getting close to that corner, making sure everything is a learning sneak up on that one. Okay, I stopped a little too short and you depart table another Just one more such that should do it. Here we go. Coming into the bag bottom. You could take a little bit of a pivot here. So the needle down right in the center of the scene, right in there, pick up, do a little bit of a pivot, make sure everything is aligned. And that will continue. Don't take my pin out. Down. You know I'm not quite close enough. No more stuff to do it. We go. Depends out as you go. 7. Optional - Ham it up - pressing tips: sorry thing is called a dressmaker's ham, I guess because it looks like a hate. If you have something like this, this may be helpful impressing kind of these weird little areas here. And that's what this thing is designed to do is help impress oddly shaped things. So what you do is you just kind of put it on here. Karma works, however, you can get it situated in the new press. So right here in this final part, which is could be a little fiddly. If you're trying to press it on a flat ironing board, you can use something like this. Okay, flatten that scene and then just come in there with your with your iron. That zoo, This is entirely optional. I happen to have one. I don't think I've ever used it more so for garment construction, then denim drawstring bags. But hey, you don't burn your fingers there And there you go. So my lining is pressed, all of my scenes repressed, and I am from work pressed. I am ready to start outside 8. Stitch outer portion of bag: Okay, let's do the outside part of her bag. Okay, So, uh, when we were talking about the pattern, remember I mentioned this lowing here. So this this dash lying these dash lines represent where the casing goes case. And they represent this right here. And we're gonna have Teoh be aware that when we start stitching the side seams of the bag because we need to make sure that we need this opening so we can thread are cord through. Okay, So I I always make notes on my patterns, and that's what I did here. You want to feel free? Um, I noted that this is 1/2 inch casing, and I also noted that the first line is two and 1/4 inches down from the top. So the two and 1/4 allows for the 1/4 and seam allowance, and then it gives us two inches here, so two inches and then Okay, so okay. And there's numbers will become important when we stitch on the outside. So that's what I did. And that's what we need to dio. We'll need to make note of where this is located. When we stitch our side seems up. Okay, So what does that really mean? Well, this is what it means. We're going to put a pocket one just like we did for the lining. Gets a list of way. Okay, so here goes my pocket. I'm gonna put my outside pocket on one of the pieces. Doesn't matter which one. Okay. And then I'm gonna pin it in place so it doesn't shift while I'm stitching on my pins. Will be out of the way enough while working. Okay, So I'm gonna take another piece, and I'm gonna go right side together and stitch. So here's where I need to, mark. So I need to mark 200 quarter inches down from this top edge, make a mark, and then make another half inch more separate from that. Because what I'll dio is I'll start stitching. I'll stop there, skip to the next mark, and then stitch all the way down. OK, so this is what what it looks like, Murray. So two and 1/4 inches down, I'm gonna make a mark. I'm gonna use my blue. I think this is shows one here. Two and 1/4. Let's see. 12 and 1/4 there she goes. But to quarter there. Okay, two and 1/4 down from the top edge. I'm making a mark. Okay, so there's one skip 1/2 an inch. Or if you want to add and and make it to with 3/4 you certainly can could do it that way two and 3/4 or just at 1/2 an inch to you're Mark that you just made. So it's important to be consistent. However you measure this out, make sure that you are consistent among all of this. Seems that we're going to serve so that this opening ends up in the same spot when we go to stitch are casing around. So that's pretty important. So make sure that you are consistent whether you're measuring down from when you go to on 1/4 and then add 1/2 an inch, will you go to and 3/4 to make it your casing? OK, it doesn't matter. It does, but it doesn't. What matters is that you're consistent. Okay, that's the most important thing. So I went June 1/4 made my mark, and it did 1/2 an inch and made another mark, okay, and made my second mark. So e, I usually do this as I go, you know, each piece is a go if you want to mark them all at one time. Um, you certainly can. And you might want to do that just to make sure that you're consistent. So why don't we do it that way? When we marked the other pair of the other half of the bag just to make sure that were consistent and they match up. Okay, so I'm just gonna pin okay. I'm gonna take the other. Yeah. Yes. Okay. And take the other half right sides together. Bring them up. Okay. Marker more. Remember, did with it come down to one reporter wrenches make him work, go half on inch, make another work. And then when I do, just to double check myself because I've made this mistake before is that I will line them up to make sure that their matching, you know, is there. One set isn't down here. Another seven isn't up here. Just double check yourself that way. Okay, that way, you know that? Least you got half of it, right? Okay, so now I'm gonna stitch, so I'm just gonna stitch in. The only place I'm gonna stop and start is here and here. And that is my yellow lab barking in the background. She probably is to go out. Well, I'm gonna go with yes, on that one. So I'm going to go let her out and I'll be right back. Okay? Back from letting the dogs out. And I just went ahead and stitched. And so, um, sure you hear what I did? Um, I back tact here. I stopped at this Mork slid down, started again at this mark and continued around here, pivoted the corner just like we did for the lining. And I backtracked here, and I did that on both pieces. Okay, When we work Waas backpack here, backpack there, skip to pick up here and go down and across. So we have but hold a little hole and the match the match up on both sides. So now what? I'm gonna dio just like we did for the lining, because I'm going to put and I press these open because I want this open when we thread the cord just to hear. And now what? I'm going to dio right sides together and stitch around just like we did not have to mark down two and 1/4 skip 1/2 an inch here and here. So I'm going to do that and I'll show you what that looks like before I stitch. Okay, I am penned and ready Stitch. I just want to show you this really quick. So I'm pinned right sides together. I made my markings here and over here, and I double checked them to make sure that they did in fact lineup. Because I am that person that will make something and it won't wind up. So do that. Just double check and make sure that these markings that you just made lineup with ones that you sowed previously so that everything lines up because it will have will have to line it up when we make the casing. It's really important then. So just take a few minutes now just to double check yourself. So what? I did Waas as I folded it together, made sure it lined up that way. Double check myself with this one and the other one. And now I'm ready to go The other thing that I did too, when I mentioned that if you're 1/4 you sometimes do this with your seems. Is that by Nestled? Yes, that's what they call it nestling. The seems so this seem is going this way. This one is going that way and they just sort of locked together RL ice So you can do that , or you can open your seems and stitch them open. I think with a heavier Denham, it's easier to make make them go one way, and then they go the other. So they just kind of locked together real nice and everything is pinned and I'm going to stitch. 9. Sew lining to bag: way are ready to assemble our bag. Underlining. So it's going really quick. Right? So I have I remember. I little openings there, the casing. One thing I did want to mention my machine as a feature where it'll back tack in place for you. If you want to use that when you are starting and stopping for this area here, bio means do it or just do the traditional make your machine go forwards and backwards with whatever but nurse what you have that makes that happen. So it's all good. And this was stitched just the same as the lining where I pivoted. Okay. Where I started stitching here, started stitching here, left my opening, came down, pivoted and came on through here. I did take a little pivot down at the bottom when I was sewing the two together on, then continued on around to the top. Okay, so now is the time to put the two together. So I'm gonna go with my bag with the inside out, So I have my right side here and my lining is right side out, and I'm gonna put them right sides together. So if you you know, if you want to think about where you want your pocket to be, your inside pocket to be in relation to your outside pocket? You certainly can. So my outside pocket is here. I'm gonna put my inside pocket on the opposite side. So they're my inside pocket is here, and it's going on this side and I'm going to pin the two together, so we're gonna match our seems or corner. Seems here. If you press the movement that makes that really super handy, sir. Match. There's up in that. So that helps help. That'll help you match everything up nicely. Gotten four. Seems that you can pen and don't pin yourself. It's so annoying. I was just AGR eats meat lips and I caught my scene there. So make sure you don't do that. Sure, that lining is not folded or tucked into itself. Don't compare yourself with pins. It's really annoying. Okay, Matching seems to seems here. Yes, you can get right in the scene and then right in the scene there. Okay. And if you want a pin in between, you certainly can just pin in the middle of the two and then we're going to stitch all the way around. There's no need to leave an opening because you left an opening in your lining. If you forgot, as I have in the past of done this before, it made a lot of these banks. And if you forgot, just go back and rip a hole because you need to turn it when we get done. Okay, So sometimes Don Imus stretching and sometimes fabric a strategy to. So if one got a little stretched out, just just make it work. You can give a little tug, just a gentle tug on it to kind of balance things out. It'll come out right. If you have a major boo, then you might need to go back and check your cutting. Okay, so now I'm penned all the way around the top as I as I So I'm gonna tuck that down. Sometimes it wants to pop up, but doesn't matter where you stop and start. So I'm just gonna start and go all the way around using my 1/4 inch scene, and then we'll come back and we will turn it rates. I don't 10. Turn bag right side out and smooth top edge: e what I did after I turned my bag inside out And how I prepared to do the top stitching. You want, Teoh roll the edge in a little bit similar to what we did on the pocket when we did this pocket, Um, and press. So here's a small sample. Hopefully, that will give you a good idea of what is happening. So this is our lining. This is our outer bag, and we're gonna try to smooth it as best we can. It's a little hard to press, because now you know, now it's a circle. Now it's, you know, kind of It's a tube, so you're gonna want to fold. And, uh, what I do is this a kind of take and roll that kind of go? What kind of girl like this with my fingers when I am trying to get it smoothed out, I do. You know, a finger, press it and then I'll use my fingernails to kind of roll it back. You know, I don't want to roll the inside in for like that. I wanted, you know, do just enough so that my lining doesn't peek out from the outside of the bag. So that's how I do it. I finger press and then I'll take my fingers and all my fingernails and all kind of roll it and smooth it. Give it a crease with my fingernail finger. Press it. But that's how I do that. And then sometimes I'll roll it between my fingers like that. That also seems to help it's or take. Take a little bit of time to smooth that out and get it prepared. Uh, once you get it rolled, the way that you like it is that you look, it looks good. You're not seeing your lining peeking around on the outer edge of your bag. Okay, It's coming. It's the opposite. The lining is inside. Then you can go ahead and press it so it may take a few minutes to smooth. You know, it may take a few minutes to smooth finger press user nails. Roll it back and forth whatever you need to do, roll it between your fingers and then bring your iron in and press it and then go to the top stitching. Okay, cool. 11. Top stitching tips: okay, just a quick as I'm stitching I am smoothing, smoothing this way. I'm smoothing underneath, making sure that my seem is nice and smooth and everything is flat Were perching a seem right here. So what I'm gonna dio is my machine is not really all that great with with really bulky things. So I'm gonna give it a little bit of a help. I'm gonna gently very gently, just kind of pull from the back side and I'm going to slow down and then I can speed up again as I move along to easier stitching again, I'm smoothing, making sure everything is smooth underneath. I don't feel any puckers, so I'm good to go. People stitching around adjusting This is not a big, you know, big long stitching projects or take a minute or two. Readjust yourself. Make sure that everything is smooth and starting to pucker up here a little bit. So I want to make sure even though I clipped and arranged it shifts, things shift. So I wanna make sure it's nice and smooth. Give it just a little help if it needs it and then continue on and I'm coming right back around to where I started. Speak inside. I look inside to make sure that everything is smooth and then I can So coming up to my starting point right in the seam allowance, I'm gonna push the button that does the attacking in place. But my machine does. You can see that just kind of doing it right in the place. And then I'm done. I removed my bag and I will turn my threads here and in here. And you can see everything turned out pretty smooth on the inside. I'm happy with that. And then the next step is to mark, and so our casing and we'll be back for them. 12. Stitching upper part of casing: All right, so now it is time to mark for our casing. I've stitched around. We did that part. We good to go. Now is the time to make the distant for casing so we can add a record. So when I went to measure mine, because he right here is my little hole and then measured technique, you know, it should be two inches down from the top, and it is actually about one and 7/8. OK, so it was a little bit shy of two inches, and I believe it's because, you know, I rolled this in the thickness of the family kind of took up beneath of an inch. However, it's consistent all the way around. All of my openings are about that one and 7/8 inch down from the top, so that's the importance of being consistent. So it's not quite two inches is a little shy, but they're all in the same spot all the way around the bag. So that's fine. I'm OK with that. That is good as always. It's the same. We're good. So, um, you know, if your ended up like that, don't panic as long as they are all in the same spot. You're OK. So what I'm gonna do next is I'm gonna mark for my casing. I'm going to use my air erase marker. Remember that the air, a race or the water soluble markers? If you iron them, they become permanent. So please be mindful of that or whatever marking that you're going to use. Just make sure you can get it out. Remember that I had a problem on a lighter piece of fabric with this blue. Um, it didn't come out in the wash, so, um, just be kind of be careful about what you're choosing and what you're doing. So I'm gonna go ahead and I'm gonna mark my ancient 7/8 from the top edge from the top edge here. My my opening ended up being an inch and 7/8 but it's the same all the way around, so that's good. So I'm gonna mark that, and then I'm gonna move 1/2 an inch, and I'm gonna mark that now. How much marking you do is entirely up to you If you want to mark a line all the way around , Um, go ahead, do that. I usually just do like a couple little marks all the way around the bag. So I'll be back and I'll show you how I have marked mine. Okay? I have marked my, um, mark down. Ah, it ended up being an inch and 7/8 because she didn't see that when I measured my top of the bag or from the top of the bag. Technically, should have been, too, but in a being engine 7/8 because of the fact that I rolled it and it was thick, but it was the same throughout, and that was the most important thing. Now, um, you can't see it, but I did mark with my era race marker. That's a problem with this one is that it disappears faster than you can. So sometimes So, yeah, I don't know about that about that particular marker, but I have enough here, and her forget to the machine before disappears on me, and I can So it one thing I did do now I just marked the top of the casing. I'm going to stitch this and then mark the other part. I feel better doing it that way. And this fast. Is this markers disappearing, it would be gone. But one thing I did Dio doesn't want to make sure that my seams are aligned in outside and inside. So what I did was I took my pin and I penned through right through the middle of the outer seam, and I wanted to make sure that I lined it up and pinned the end that it pinned through the inner Seen as well. Okay, so that those seems lineup. It just is is kind of a visual thing, sir, That your bag isn't You know you're lining. Hasn't shifted too much from the from the inside from the outside. And that's all that is just to keep things nice and straight and smooth so that when you stitch, you don't have lines going like that because you're lining shifted on. You OK, so I'm going to stitch this first line of the casing. I'm gonna mark the next line and stitch that one because my marker is disappearing faster than I can so and I'll be right back with us 13. Stitching lower part of casing: okay. When you are back, I've stitched around and like I did when I was top stitching here when I was top stitching that there I have this in the machine and I was smoothing it. And I was making sure that as I went around here, I didn't feel any bulk. Anything shifting. That's why I think it's important to pin your seems here. And then also, just take your time going around, smoothing it as you go making sure that there's no bulk. It has a bunched up on the inside. Um, anything like that sometimes done Incan be a little bit stretching, Like I said, uh, as I was coming around this this is really stretching here. As I was coming around where he started, I just gave it a gentle tug, and it just kind of smoothed everything out. Uh, so that you know, you could do that if you need Teoh. So the next thing I'm gonna dio is I'm going to. So there's my stitching line. You can barely see it. Which is why gray is nice. Two piece with and stitch with because it kind of blends right in eyes. Mark the bottom part of my casings. You can see it at the top. And now I'm gonna mark the bottom and I'm gonna do the same thing. Except this time, I'm not going to use the error race marker. I'm gonna use this pastel chalk pencil. This is an artist pencil, because it's pure talk and it'll come out. I'm hesitant to use my little my little wheel thing because of the experience that I have the password didn't come out. Eso I am going to, uh, use something different this time. So I'm gonna mark the bottom of this right at the bottom of my casing. It's about 1/2 an inch away, and I'm gonna do that around, and then I'm gonna stitch that and go all the way around, and this is probably the most difficult, and it's not even difficulty. It's just the part of the project where you really want to pay attention to what you're doing, Uh, the sowing of the pieces. Initially, you need to pay attention to that, and then you really need to pay attention to your casing on making sure that it's not shifting on the inside. That's really the hardest part and that it's not even hard. It just takes, just takes a little time and a little attention, and that's it. And you're good to go. It's super easy after that. So I'm gonna go ahead and do that, and it's and the rumors done we're gonna threat are cord. We're gonna stitch up our our are lining, and we're done. So that's pretty cool. All right, I'm gonna do that and I'll be right back. Okay? All right. I have marked my casing marked for my casing, and I am going to put a few pins in just to make sure that the lining doesn't shift as I'm sewing and I will, as I so also just make sure that I'm smoothing everything out. I think it's worth popping a few pins in here just in between some random spots just to make sure that everything stays smooth. You will be happier in the end. You know, if everything is nice and smooth, you'll feel better about your project. Uh, if it if it doesn't come out smooth, you can just you can on so it rip it or frog it whenever you want to call that or you can let it go. It's up to you to project so are marked of penned And now I'm gonna stitch the bottom part of my casing. 14. Optional - marking machine for casing: okay, A couple of things about just temps. Tips and hints, tips and hints. Okay, for this black bag that I made for the black one here, I was really concerned about, uh, you know, whether I could mark with my chalk or the chocolate liner and haven't come out. So I was really concerned about that. So what I ended up doing on my machine is I used There are some marks here. There was a two inch mark right there. And then I figured out I measured ah, half inch beyond that and actually took me right to the edge of the plate here, which is pretty cool. And I machine has a lot more marks out here. Um, so that's what I did, Teoh, Mark, you know, kind of Mark or used to use that used these lines as guides for stitching my casing because I was concerned that I wouldn't get, um, work out of it so you could do that as well. Another thing that I've done in the past. I was making a lot of these bags at one time, and I used Ah, this is painter's tape, and this is artist tape and these air Very low tack, meaning they don't stick. They're not super duper sticky. You could use masking tape. And what I did was I took small pieces of tape and I figured out where you know, what markings I wanted to follow on the machine. I measured out. I was using an order machine, and it didn't have all these markings. I measured out wherever I needed to, and I put a piece of tape. And then I put another piece of tape to mark where of the top of the casing would stitch and the lower part of the casing would stitch. So I had pieces of table my machine to guide me and I Then I didn't have to worry about working, which was really handy. It saved a lot of time, and I didn't have to worry about, you know, whether I was gonna get this out or not. So you could do something like that so you can work, You know, put some pieces of tape wherever you need to. You know, this could be the edge for the other for the upper part, and then you could mark another, you know, different color tape to mark the lower part of the casing. So there's might. Those ideas might help you 15. Stitch lining shut: Okay. I am gonna share you a couple of things and use felt Yorn and a large door needle so that you can see it. I did it actually. Sewing the lining shot on the bag and you couldn't see a thing. So I want to do at large scales. You can see what I'm doing. First thing I'm unsure you. Um, so this is my thread. Okay. I'm gonna show you how I make a knot in the end of it. So that is kind of kind of quick and easy, And you may already know this. So and again, remember, I'm left handed eso I'm doing everything Probably backwards from everybody, just about everybody else. But I'm gonna hold the needle on my left hand. I'm gonna take the tail of my threat in my right hand, and I'm gonna place it over top of my needle like this. Okay, then I'm gonna take the the thread and I'm gonna wrap it around once and twice, and then I'm gonna pull through, pull my needle through some pinching. I'm pinching everything here like that, and then I'm gonna pull through. Like so. This is a fast and easy way to make a Not okay. And there you go, little. Not okay. These pieces have felt represent the opening in our lining that we now need to stitch shut . Okay, so when we made the bag, we have an opening. We left an opening inner lining. We've turned it. We top stitch. Now we need Teoh with that shot. OK, so I'm going to do it. Large scale. So typically what Ideo is I kind of go in. So we have a seam allowance. Okay, so this is our outer, our outer fabric here. And then this is our seam allowance, right? And this is the one that we pressed. And so we should have a nice, crisp edge to so too. Now, this is how I do it. If you just want to whip overhand that's fine. You can So what, any way you like? But I'm just going to show you how I do it. In case you have never done anything like this. So I have gone in and I find my seam allowance and I bring my needle up through Easier said than done. Okay, so now I'm anchored in the seam allowance. And what I'm gonna dio is I'm gonna pinch the shutter. I can put a pin in it to help me keep it together. Wherever is easiest for you. And I'm going to go directly across and take a stitch as best I can in the felt, you get the idea like that, Okay? And I'm gonna take a small little stitch. Maybe I am. Maybe I am. There we go. I did small little stitch like that and pull through. So it's not nearly as hard when you're doing your, um, your bag. Okay, I'm gonna come back straight across as I can. I think you're gonna have a much easier time doing this with, um with the family and something that isn't so thick, but you get the idea and again, take another small stitch and pull and pull. And so this this just pulled This pulls up the scene real nice. I know it looks hideous right now, but with a fabric and thread, it looks so much better, and it's almost invisible by the time you're done. So that's all I'm doing there to do that. So I wanted to do this large and with contrast ing yarn and thread or thread and fabric so that you could see what I'm doing. And so I just keep going back and forth like that. So directly across from where I came out, I pick a small stitch. I place my needle in small stitch and pull through. Okay, so hopefully that helps you, uh and then when you're done, you know it looks a whole lot better than that in fabric, But you get the idea. One quick thing I did want to mention is when I am sewing doing any hand sewing, I use something called a threat conditioner. This is thread heaven. I think you can get this at any fabric store, sewing store, quilting store. But this is really helps. ITT's waxy. I think bees wax will do the same thing if you have that. But what it does is it coats the thread so it glides through your fabric easier. And also it prevents it from nodding up so much So if you have this, that's wonderful. If you don't, that's okay, too. You'll be fine without it. Okay? So hopefully that, um, Yorn felt a little sandwich thing helped you, um uh, whip start your thing shut. One of the thing that I do when I get to the end of my stitching what I dio is I will. Ticker. You know, one last ditch. Okay, This is how I make a Not so I leave a loop, come back in with my thread like that, Okay. And then I'm going to take the needle one more time, and I'm going to go back through again. I think some people call this a figure eight knot. Okay, Does it does kind of look like a figure eight and then pull up and it makes a nice, tidy little not. And then, while Dio is all bury kind of bury my needle in between the seams and bring it out somewhere in the lining somewhere. Okay, so just bring it out somewhere, and I'll pull it a little snugly, and then I'm going to trim it a term close to the fabric. And so then what will happen is, um, it'll just pop back in and it'll disappear. So there you go. So that hopefully that will help you with your whipping shot of your opening in your bag. All right. So almost their only thing we have left to do is threat or cord through, and we're done 16. Thread cord and we are done!: we are coming down to start here bag and let's go over a couple of things about threading you're courting through the bag. Um, a lot of people use a safety pin. This is a large safety pin. I've done that for a lot of years. These I found in the notions ill of my fabric store. This one's Bergen, but I still use it anyway. Does it? Can't stand to throw it away. But these are pretty cool, because you can thread your item through here and then back through here, and then this threads through your casing, which is super handy. However, What I ended up doing was taking some copper wire. I'm not even sure where I got this. It's thin copper wire, maybe 1/16 of an inch thick, and that's what I use. It seems to hurt the best, believe it or not. So what I dio is I just read my my cord through, and sometimes I'll give this a twist, just a single twist like that, and it's it holds. I was surprised at how well it actually held as I threaded through threatening my courting through It doesn't come loose. I haven't had any problems with that. It seems to work really well, so that's what I use. So that's what we're gonna do today. I went ahead and, um, I folded my edges under and I stitched, and I actually put a little tiny piece of tape in there because as soon as I caught this, it freed. It just went and eso I kind of gathered it back up with a piece of tape and then folded it afforded again and then zigzag in place with my machine to make an end. But when I did that, it made this really bulky. So now this is really bulky right here. And, um, what I'm gonna do with the other part of the handle is I'm going to thread it through, and then I'm going to stitch it down, then all fold and fold and then tack it down. Uh, after I put it through. Okay, that's so you can do that if you think you need to. It was just a little bit bulky, kind of getting it started in the scene and getting it to come back out again. It wasn't so bad once I got it in, but if it's you might want to consider that. Okay, so let's do that. This is another one that I was working on as I was working on the other one. So what I did is I started on one side, went all the way around and came back out the other side and stitched it. So now I'm gonna do the same thing on this side. So I'm going to start here and go all the way around and come back out. Sarah will give this a try. So in the scene, here we go. Now, it can be a little fiddly when you get to the other intersection, especially when you have a cord in there. Just just take your time and feed it through. You don't want your whatever you're using. If you're using a Bobby safety Bobby pin, a safety pin, you don't want to come back out. We have to get it going back through the other part of the casing here to continue around. So just enabled out in and just work it around. Okay, It's not that hard. It's just gonna be a little bit fiddly sometimes. And if you're right underneath this one Sometimes that helps. And then sometimes you get caught in the seam allowance so you'll just have toe, you know, fiddle around with it a little bit to get it to come through easily. You know, it's so just the way that it is. So there I got through and I'm stuck in the other one. And now I'm gonna go under and we're moving right along. So it's a little stuck right at weird stuff, but it's stuck somewhere. So you just have to What's with that? A little back once it gets going, once you get past, wherever it is that you're stuck, you know you're home free. So there we go. It just really wants to be a little bit of a booger today. Look, it's OK. We will persevere and we will make it work. OK, so sometimes when this happened, so it's it's stuck in here somewhere. So what I'm gonna dio is I'm going to try to get it out and get my hand in a really be able to grip it, because sometimes that's what you need is really to be able to grip the daggone thing. So I'm not the only thing I like about the copper wires of bendy. So I just made myself a little hook here. While I try to get this guy to come through here for some reason, it just really wants to fight me today. I don't know. Why don't you get it? You get it? You got it. Not sure what the heck is going on here. That's like stuck from the get go. Here we go. I just had to break free, and here we're So don't panic if that happens to you. Also trying to air ago Got the end to come through. Bend my little copper wire here and get my end out. I might've been stuck on the tape. Who knows? Anyway, it's out. That's the important part. Okay, so here we are. So there's one. And here is the other half, because I'd like to have things all nice and even I'll even it out and make sure that it is even but that you know that they're evenly space here. So I'm going, Teoh. Now that I have this through, I'm gonna stitch this down. Tak that down, and then I'll tie it type of them together. So that's one way that you can finish that. But the denim bag I used free check on the ends of this. This is like a twill tape. I found this. I thought this was pretty cool. It's pretty sturdy. So I think it'll work and it's thin. So it should go through the Denham fairly easily. And eso I free Checked that and it's OK. And I'm not sure that I'm really crazy about how that feels and how little feel in your hand is your, you know, as you're working with it. So I think what I might do is thread this through just like we did with the black bag. And then I think I'm gonna take the ends to my machine and maybe stitch them together. I think I'm gonna try that. I'm just going to use a zigzag stitch and I'll just zigzag back and forth through here and then they'll be stitched together. And I can tell you, man, and not because it's kind of cute when it started or not. And then that's how I think I'm gonna finish. That one s so you know you have lots of options there. Um I tried the free check. It's OK. Not really crazy about, like I say, how it would feel in your hands. It may be a big deal for some, and it may not be a big deal for others. So whatever works for you when finishing your ends like this still got some. No, that's just the extra preacher, So that's how we finish it. So we are done. I want you. Once you throat recording through and finish the ends, however you like either finishing before or after you have a bag cool and 17. Optional - embroidered pocket: tips for in case you wanted to do an envoy on embroider design on a pocket or purchased applicator on your pocket or something like that. Here's some suggestions. This is another pair that I'm working on. Another bag that I'm working on. This is a pair of pants. They're kind of like 12 material. I cut the cut the leg apart, so this was left over and I cut the leg apart. And when I go to the machine or when I embroidered by hand, I want to make sure that I get my design in the right spot. I don't want it to be underneath her down here because this is actually the bottom. Okay, so your bag sits like that, and so then you really only have this area here. You can use this seam allowance or this stash in line for the that you used. If he did the dent inversion kind of as a guide as well, so that you'll have enough room to do a seam allowance. So this part is the bottom of your bag. So you don't want your design to be stuck underneath there. So I have a piece of fabric that's big enough for my Teoh for my pocket teasing. What I did was is I just kind of placed it here. I took my little chalk Carliner here, and I just made some marks here and here so that I know that my design will be in this area . So then I'm gonna dio probably produce a machine embroidery When I do that, they placed my fabric in my hoop. I can see just little teeny, tiny marks there where I've got to make sure that I get my design within that area. So I knew that it will fit. I will show up, you know, in this area where I wanted to be and not down here on the bottom or cut off by the seam allowance So you can do that if you're going to do any kind of embroidery or place something in your pockets 18. All fabric version: Okay. Welcome back. All fabric bag. We're we've used fabric for, obviously for the outside and the inside, but we're also making our handle, um, are strap out of fabric, okay. And this is what you'll do. If you want to do this, you'll need one yard of fabric. I've placed my pattern here, as you can see, and I printed an extra one so I could do this and cut them all out at one time. Uh, you'll have extra fabric left over that you could say for another project. You don't have to make your handles out of fabric, but if you want to, this is what you'll dio one yard of fabric layer pattern pieces out. Then what I did is I tour a two inch strip, two inch wide strip off the top here, and I also tour off this bound edge. Okay, I'm there's I guess there's two types of people. There's that tear, and there's I don't and I am one that tears. Um, I like to terror on then lying my edges up, but you do have to be careful that sometimes the bound edges don't line up. Things were shifted. Um, I find Harry works for me. If you don't want to tear, that's okay. You can cut. You could certainly cut your two inch strips, but you're gonna need to cut two of those so you'll lay out your pattern pieces. You'll have enough room after you bring your pattern pieces down to the folded edge. Place them. I like to alternate. So I have one doing this way. One going that way so I can make the most out of my fabric. Get the most out of that like so Soleil the mouth. But you're pocketing here kind of nestle that in there in this area here. Then you'll have plenty of room to tear to two inch strips. So I'm gonna make a little diagram of how to lay this all out, and that will be included in your supply list so you can see so it'll look like a pattern that you get, you know, a commercially made pattern. So that's what you'll dio. Okay, lay out your fabric one yard caught or tear to two inch strips. That or the length. So there to buy 36 basically, and then what I did to complete my ah handle to complete this handle like this is that I pressed it in half wrong sides together, gave it a good press. Then I folded raw edges in to that pressed line and then folded everything in half and pressed. Give it a good press and then stitched. Now, before you do that, you're probably gonna want to tuck this guy in and then do the same thing, fold and fold, and then forward again, and then you can stitch so that you'll have a nice clean end here and you can see that I did that here. Actually, I folded that over and tucked it. Any number of ways that you want to finish the role and of your handle. It's fine. You can wait to the very end and then folded under unfolded under. And so, Or you can do it as you are stitching this handle. Okay, so that is it for your all fabric version. Okay? 19. Final thoughts and THANK YOU!: talk options and variations. So here we are. This is the denim bag that is Don completed Barrack. Uh, according pocket double pocket pocket on the inside This flower, I may in the fund flower accessory in minutes class. Um so you can make this adorable flower to put on your bag? This is an all fabric variation here with some trim attached to the pocket. So the pocket is a great place to add a little trim, some scraps of term that you have. So you want to add the trim after you piece the pocket, turn it right sides out, impress, Then attach your trim and then assemble as you did for the rest of the bag. This is the black bag that I showed em bordering on the pocket. This is the one that is completed, so I think that looks pretty cool. So you have lots of options. How to add some possess to your bags, decorate your bag and make a fabric handle if you wish. Or you can just buy trim, as I've done here. Eso That's it. And I hope you enjoy the bag. Thank you so much for being a part of my class. If you have any questions, comments or anything, I'd love to hear them. And I would love to see your project. I'd love to see what you do with it. If you need any help, don't hesitate to ask. Thank you so much.