DIY Filter for Photography | Jen S. | Skillshare

DIY Filter for Photography

Jen S., Drifting Iris Photography

DIY Filter for Photography

Jen S., Drifting Iris Photography

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5 Lessons (11m)
    • 1. DIY Filter for Photography

    • 2. Introduction to Welder's Glass

    • 3. DIY Filter

    • 4. On Scene Demonstration

    • 5. Post-Production Photography Editing

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About This Class

Long exposure photography blurs motion. Typically this is achieved with neutral density filters which reduce the amount of light coming into the camera. These filters can get quite expensive, some over 100 dollars each, but with this easy technique you too can accomplish that classic smooth long exposure shot. 

This course will outline how to create your own long exposure filter using welder's glass, techniques for use, as well as a quick tip in post-processing. 

Check out my website for more inspiration

Meet Your Teacher

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Jen S.

Drifting Iris Photography


By fourth grade, I had already memorized the lines that would become my mantra for the rest of my life. "Two roads diverge...and I took the one less traveled and that has made all the difference." 

I call Alaska home and have spent most my life exploring the last frontier. Mostly directionless, trying to discover my path. During this journey, I've guided sea kayak tours, mushed Iditarod sled dogs, drove ambulances as an Emergency Medical Technician, ski patrolled the slopes, taught 6th graders outdoor science, and even captained commercial vessels as a 100 GT Master Mariner. And through it all, I've carried my camera. 

Now I'm taking my photography to a more professional level. Through my past experiences, I am able to capture the unique and hope to share my way ... See full profile

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1. DIY Filter for Photography: 2. Introduction to Welder's Glass: Hello, everyone. My name is Jen and I'm a traveling photographer, and in this class, I'd like to teach you how to use welder's glass. The long exposure photography what I'd like to cover in this class is what is welder's glass? Where to clean it. How do you use it on your camera and then a little bit of both across the thinking when you leave, that sounds interesting to you. Let's go on ahead and look it started. 3. DIY Filter: So what is? Well, there's glass. Well, this is a piece of welder's glass. It's typically used to shield welders eyes. While they're welding, however, photographers can use it as a neutral density filter. So you would want to use welder's glass if you're, let's say, wanting to shoot a long exposure on a day like today, when it's super bright out and you're gonna want your shutter open for a long period of time in order to capture the movement that you're shooting. And if you do that without a neutral density filter, your image is going to become overexposed. So by using the welder's glasses a neutral density filter your ableto have your shutter open for a longer period of time. Capture that silky motion and keep your images not so over exposed, so you could also accomplish this. Purchasing a 10 stop neutral density filter. However, those might run you over $100 each, and that's just for the filter, not for how to mount it onto your camera. So an affordable solution for long exposure photography I found to be using the welder's glass. Now there's a bunch of different ways that you can attach this to the end of your camera. The method that I have here is a lens hood. It's one of the silicone months, and I have a poxy toe or glued it to the end of my welder's glass. I found that this is not the most typical way how to attach it. More typically, I've seen folks take their lend, would screwed on backwards and then just use rubber bands. So there is a couple things that you need in order to do long exposure photography. So you pick up your welder's glass. Figure out the best message for you on attaching it to the end of your lens. You'll need any sort of lens. Personally, I just use a wide angle lens for it's the only one that my sons would sit on. And it works great, and you'll need a DSLR camera that can go into bulb mode as well as you need to be able to shoot and raw. You'll find your images using the welder's glass will have a green cast to them, and that's just part of the glass. And so, in order to get rid of that, there's a trick I'll show you in a later lesson in post processing Super. It's super easy. One klick fix, Uh, so don't let the green casts of the welder's glass deter you from experimenting. Uh, for long exposures as well. You had some sort of cable release, Um, and that's so that you can have your shutter open for a longer period of time. Personally, I use a Bluetooth shudder, and that's just what I have. But any sort of cable shudder will work just fine, and you also need a sturdy tripod. Need to pick up a piece of welder's glass, and you can do that at your local hardware store. I pick this up at Home Depot. Um, you can. I've seen it at aces and some of the local moment pop hardware stores. You can also find it on Amazon, and again it's around $5 4. On Scene Demonstration: we're now moving river. And so before we put on this welding glass, what we need to do is hit our camera settings. All buddy, once we get that well planned from the end of our lead really hard to see through next that well, no, no. One of our right 100 one of and my wide angle lens and auto focus when you have everything . Long exposure shots with water, water. Uh, that's not like a rock water on that. You get that ground. So make sure my camera and I'm ready to take playback. Kind of like you notice that will be a green on your And that's why it was important with that you get rid of that and but for now, and look like right, All right, Better and then go from there. 5. Post-Production Photography Editing: Hello, everyone. And welcome to the mobile studio here. I've imported the picture that we just took down at the creek. I'm using an iPad pro, and this platform is affinity photo for iPad. Um, this step to get rid of the green cast, you can also accomplish Ah, using most photo editing software just like adobe photo shop or light room. The steps will be pretty much the same. So once you have your photo uploaded, um, here, since it's a raw I'm in my develop persona, which is a lot like the camera raw Ah, step in Adobe Photo Shop. So the first step I'm going to do is I want to correct my white balance to get rid of this green cast. And here I'm going to use my white balance picker tool. Um, have that same thing in camera raw. It'll be in the upper left hand corner and I look like an eye dropper. See? Click on that and then you want to find the whitest part of your image. So for me behind this rock here, I'm going to click on it. And Walla, my color has returned. Now, from here, I can go ahead and kind of correct for any other, um, photo editing type of stuff that I'm interested in doing. It can change my exposure. Play with it, however you see fit. Um, I'm not gonna go into all the photo editing steps. I just wanted to show using the white balance tool on how we can get rid of that green cast . Now there's, ah, other ways to get rid of that. Instead of using post processing software, you can also use a custom white balance. And that's something that you would do on scene if you refer to your cameras manual or there's a lot of resource is online on how to set up a custom white balance. Personally, I don't go with that option. I think it's a necessary step for the photos Imed taking. However, you might find that you need, um to explore that option. So another option, instead of just using a white balance picker tool if we went back to our green image here. Another common way to deal with the green hue is to just turn your image into ah, black and white, and then you can adjust your tones and curves from there. I prefer black and white photos, often when I'm shooting. Ah, moving water. So this is typically the option that I'll go with Now. Here's another image that I took previously using the welder's glass for a long exposure. This is of a waterfall versus the creek we were just down at. But it's the same kind of concept. This image is a lot darker. It was in a wooded forests, so there wasn't a ZMA Uchuari coming in. But I had correct my white balance in just the same way by clicking that white balance picker tool and clicking on the white, a spot of this image in Wana. I've got rid of that green. Now this image is still really under exposed so I could play with my exposure and whatever else have you. That's kind of nice. Ah, there and then that can continue tinkering with this image as I see fit. I just wanted to go over another image, getting rid of that green hue. Well, thank you for joining me in this class. On using welder's glass for long exposure photography. I hope everyone feels empowered to go out and grab their welder's glass and start taken shots of motion. I hope to see your images posted in the project gallery and it be great to see how everyone's attaching their welding glasses. Well, thank you ever so much.