Customize Your Camera: DIY Scarf Camera Strap | Diana Southern | Skillshare

Customize Your Camera: DIY Scarf Camera Strap

Diana Southern, Travel Blogger (StylishTravelGirl.com)

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15 Lessons (53m)
    • 1. Welcome to Class!

      1:00
    • 2. Materials Overview

      0:44
    • 3. Choosing Your Fabric

      0:48
    • 4. Choosing Your Hardware

      2:21
    • 5. Choosing Your Leather

      1:15
    • 6. Using a Hand-Sewing Leather Punch

      3:00
    • 7. Before We Begin...

      0:27
    • 8. Measure + Cut Your Fabric

      3:30
    • 9. Sew Your Seam

      3:51
    • 10. Fold + Secure Your Strap Ends

      7:31
    • 11. Cut + Punch Your Leather Pieces

      8:19
    • 12. Pre-Stitch Fabric to Leather

      7:56
    • 13. Attach Hardware + Finish Sewing

      8:55
    • 14. Finishing Touches

      2:29
    • 15. Upload a Photo of Your Completed Camera Strap in Your Class Project

      0:43

About This Class

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Glam up your camera with a stylish scarf camera strap with travel blogger and DIY enthusiast Diana Southern. In this 50-minute class, you'll discover:

  • the tools and techniques Diana uses for hand-sewing leather and fabric
  • key considerations for creating a strap that works with your camera (point-and-shoot, DSLR, etc.)
  • a step-by-step tutorial for creating the popular Stylish Travel Girl camera strap

By the end, you'll have a professional-quality wrist or neck strap that suits your camera and personal style!

*Prior sewing experience is highly recommended! You should be able to sew a simple seam (by hand or machine) and have experience with basic hand-sewing.

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Transcripts

1. Welcome to Class!: Hi, I'm Diana. I'm a travel blogger, D I wire and arts and Crafts lover. In this class, I'm going to show you the basic sewing and crafting skills you need to make your own camera strap. At the end of this class, you'll have an awesome one of a kind camera accessory that reflects your own personal style . You'll start by choosing to make a wrist strap or a neck strap. Then you'll use your favorite scarf for fabric combined with leather and hardware of your choice to create a stylish new strapped for your camera. Take a look at some of the samples I've created for inspiration for your project. Ready to get started. Once you've decided between a wrist or neck strap, start your class project in share your selection with class. Also, tell us what type of camera you'll be creating for See you in class 2. Materials Overview: Okay, So now that you've decided on a restaurant next drop weaken, start gathering our materials. The strap will be making This class has three parts. The fabric or scarf, the leather and the hardware in the upcoming videos. I'll give you some tips for choosing those materials, but for now, here's an overview of all the tools and materials you'll need for this project. A needle, pins, scissors, a scarf you want to repurpose or lightweight fabric thread to match your scar for fabric leather red to match your leather, a leather punch and hardware that fits your camera. Some optional supplies that might be useful are a sewing machine measuring tape symbol, leather glue and a marker pen. 3. Choosing Your Fabric: Okay, So before we get started, let's talk about fabric for this project we want to use as lightweight material as possible . And this can be either a summary scarf you find at the store. You can usually find some really great scarf options at Target, or you can buy lightweight fabric from your local fabric store. If you're going to buy fabric, I'd recommend either a sheer silky scarf like material or a really lightweight cotton. For my demonstrations, I'll be using this sheer silky floral fabric. It's really lightweight. It feels nice on my skin, and it's breathable, so this camera strapped won't make me too hot on a warm day. And last thing. If you're buying fabric, you'll want to purchase at least 1/2 yard of material for a wrist strap and a yard and 1/2 of material for a next drop. That'll give you a little bit extra for practicing on or in case you make a mistake, 4. Choosing Your Hardware: next, let's talk about hardware. Your hardware selection will depend on how large and how heavy your camera is. The heavier your camera is, the larger and stronger your hardware needs to be. Take a good look your camera and note the characteristics of the loops or rings or pre attached hardware. Whatever you've got on your camera where the strap is supposed to attach, you'll want to use hardware that will give you a secure connection to that point. Most of the time, a traditional split ring will be one of the best solutions, especially for heavier cameras, because they offer a strong, secure connection. But if you're creating for a lighter weight camera, you may prefer something like a lobster class. I typically like these better because they give me the flexibility to remove my strap quickly if I need to. I've had pretty good luck finding quality hardware in the leather craft section of the craft store. You might also find durable split rings, D rings and the like in or near the jewelry section. I'm going to use thes split ring lobster clasp combos because I can easily remove the lobster clasp later if I want to use this strapped for a heavier camera, been choosing hardware. Follow these guidelines by two for a neck strap and one for a wrist strap. Make sure it's durable and can support the weight of your camera. Inspect the hardware before you use it. Don't use any hardware that bends to easily or has any visible cracks in the metal. Make sure your plan for attaching it to your camera doesn't want the hardware into an awkward position where it can be easily bent or twisted. Avoid hardware with sharp edges that may scratch your camera. Some split rings could be a little rough on the sides, so especially keep an eye out for that. For a heavy camera, use a durable deering or split ring with a wide diameter of 1.5 inches or more. Here's a good time to note many, but not all cameras are built to take a neck strap. If you're creating for a point and shoot, for example, you may only have a strap attachment point on one side of your camera. If that's the case, you can still create a neck strap. Just keep in mind that your camera will hang differently, since both ends of your strap will need to attach to the same side of your camera. One more helpful, hard right tip. Try attaching a small split ring to your cameras. Strap attachment point. This will allow you to connect almost any class for split ring to your camera so you'll have more flexibility in choosing hardware with a look that you like. 5. Choosing Your Leather: Finally, let's talk about leather. Here we have the opportunity to really customize your strap with a nice leather accent. Your leather accent pieces will service the connection between the fabric and hardware of your camera strap. You can purchase leather in the leather craft section of a craft store, usually in a variety of colors, and some stores also carry variety packs of leather scraps. You can also look in the patch section, which is where I found some dark brown suede cow hide elbow patches that work well for this project. A few guidelines to follow in selecting leather to something that looks nice with the fabric or scarf you'll be using. Make sure you buy enough leather. I've created some templates for you to use for tracing and cutting out your leather pieces . You can find these in the project file section of the class, print these out in advance and take them with you when you're shopping so you can use them as a guide. When you're buying leather, you'll need to create to leather accent pieces for a next drop in just one for a wrist strap. And don't forget to pick up a leather punch. If you don't already own one, you'll want a leather punch that can create 0.8 millimeter holes for this project. 6. Using a Hand-Sewing Leather Punch: for this Fox. We're going to be working with weather because you're going to be attaching a leather accent piece onto the end of your strap. Whether it's a next draft or restrict, you're going to be cutting weather, and we're going to pre punch it so that it's easy for us to hand. So I just want to go over how to use a hand sewing leather punch before before we get to that part of the class. So this is a hand sewing leather punch. It has a range of sizes of holes that it can punch. The smallest one is the one that I'm going to be using, and that is a 10.8 millimeter sighs full. So all you have to do is rotate this little dial to the size of whole that you want, and then you're just gonna punch it through the leather. So I recommend cutting yourself off a scrap piece of the leather that you're going to be using for this project and just go ahead and take this this tool if it's new to you and practice punching some holes and you don't need to use Aton of pressure on her hand, but you can definitely feel it cutting through the leather. If you do a whole and it doesn't go all the way through, it's also not a big deal to just go back and line up the end of your punch and just punch it the rest of the way through. The one thing that you probably will benefit a lot from practicing is punching holes in a straight line, so that's gonna be a skill that is more difficult to do perfectly. But if you practice just a little bit beforehand, it'll go a lot smoother when you're actually making the leather pieces for your project. So I would use a straight edge and either a pencil or a silver Sharpie marker with a thin, really small and tip to make your marks on your leather. You kind of have to experiment with what is visible to you. I've found that a pencil with a really sharp tip works really nicely. The Sharpie works really, really well, too, but it's permanent marker and it won't look as nice if you accidentally make an off mark with the Sharpie markers. So I would just practice making some pencil marks You don't have to do it with a straight edge right now, but make yourself some pencil marks and then practice taking your leather punch, lining it up to that mark that you made and punching a hole through. And once you feel comfortable using that leather punch, then you're ready to go ahead and get started making your leather pieces for this project. 7. Before We Begin...: If you haven't already done so, select your leather size now and make sure you have hardware that matches that size. The leather template file I've provided has four stencil sizes to choose from and includes guidelines for selecting matching hardware. Okay, let's get started. I'll be guiding you through the process for making a neck strap and a wrist strap at the same time. So be sure to note the difference is as we go along, we'll begin by measuring cutting and sewing the fabric for your strap. 8. Measure + Cut Your Fabric: If you're going to make a neck strap, I recommend cutting your fabric. Teoh, about 40 inches 40 inches is actually a little bit longer than the straps that I like, But you can always make your strap shorter after your initial cut. You just can't make it longer. So make sure you start with something that is an overestimate of the length that you actually want. So to measure out our fabric, I'm just gonna take one end of my fabric here and for a next round, I'm going to want a piece of material that is 40 inches long by about 18 inches wide. To make it a little easier, I'm going full this in half. So now we don't want a piece that's 40 inches long by nine inches wide, and I'm gonna take a tape measure and measure my nine inches out along this space, and it's a little hard to tell with this material which side is inside in which side is outside. But you want to make sure you're doing this. So the inside of your material is what you see here. So the outside the part that you want to be visible on your strap should be here at this point, just going along and measuring nine inches and then pinning my two layers of fabric together. So if you're doing this with a scar, it's pretty much the same process. You're just going toe, lay out your scarf and reduce it to the size that we need. So we've got at least 40 inches here on. What I'm gonna want to do is make a cut at my 40 inch mark here. I'm also going to cut the fabric along this edge here. All right about here. Okay, so now I have this piece of fabric that I just cut. I still got the pins in it, and I'm just gonna go ahead and take it and put it around my neck. Careful not to stab myself and go ahead and measure the length from here. So this is like a pretty good length. Actually, when I measuring around my neck, it's actually looking up like it's about 39 inches. So I'm happy with this measurement, so I'm not going to make any extra cuts if yours ended up being too long. All you do is layer material out, determine the number of inches that you want to cut off and then just cut it right off in the next step. We're going Teoh Teik our material and so it along this edge. So you could do that either with a sewing machine or you can sew by hand. I'm going to be using a sewing machine just because it's faster. But something by hand is totally fine. Option. I'm gonna go ahead and get out my sewing machine and go ahead. And so this along that seam there. 9. Sew Your Seam: No, I'm using a light blue Fred for this. It's gonna match the material as closely as possible. I've got my machine threated. And now I'm just going. So along my scene here again, I should be looking at the inside of my fabric here. That outside that I want to be visible when this is done, should be on the inside part. I'm going to give myself a nice big edge here. Just so I have a lot of space. I'm actually gonna use a zigzag stitch for this, which will allow the material Teoh stretch a little bit without Fred breaking. Actually, start with my regular stitch. Do quick back stitch to hold it in and get to that point. I wish I'm going. I'm just maintaining the same amount of fabric that I'm leaving on the outside here. Theme, silky material likes to slip on bunch. A little bit of a big deal. Just kind of remove the pins as I go and let it let it fall. I'm gonna check my stitch every once in a while as I'm going to make sure everything looks good. Looks good. Keep going. You're bunching up again. So loosen that up a little. I'm just guiding my fabric through to push it or pull it. And as I'm getting to the end here looking like my material got a little bit wonky as we were going. But that's okay. It's better to have a nice flat seem. So what we'll do at the end is we'll just cut that off. But I'm gonna stop sewing. Once I reached the end of my material here could see it through on thing. I'm gonna switch back to my regular stitch with quick backs it. All right? Get a cut. Just take a look and make sure seem Looks good. Yeah, this looks good to you. Can cut off my extra thread here at the end to just to keep everything nice and clean this side. Do you have an extra little piece of material? So I'm just gonna turn this off. Then we can go ahead and turn this right foot in here. We have our tube of material. If you're doing a wrist strap, it's just gonna be a shorter tube of material. But this next step is the same regardless 10. Fold + Secure Your Strap Ends: So I'm gonna start with one end of my material and I'm going to accordion fold my fabric. And if you've chosen to do a large accent piece a large leather accent piece, this this is an example of the large size here. We're just gonna want to make sure that your accordion fold ends up to be a with that's a little bit thinner than your piece of leather. You're doing a small one. This is what the small size is gonna look like. So I'm gonna make this strapped for a lighter weight camera. So I'm going to go ahead and use the smaller piece, and I'm just going to start by folding something that will fit in there a little bit thinner than the width of my leather accent piece. And then I'm just gonna pulled as I go. Okay, so this doesn't have to be perfect science. If it doesn't end up exactly as a full fold at the end, that's OK. It'll just kind of adds to the charm of of our strap here. So I was going to pin in this year toe hold on to it for now and then I do want to double check to make sure that this is gonna fit here. So this is actually a little bit wide. So as I was folding, my A material slipped a little bit and it ended up a little bit whiter. Then I was expecting. So I'm gonna go ahead and re fold this. So let's try this again. And that's why I typically like to start my fold with what looks to be too thin. But as I go, probably going to get a little bit whiter on me. Put a pin in, and then let's check are with here. Okay, so this is better. As you can see, I've got some extra space on either side for my leather accent piece. That means when I so my leather accent piece around this to cap the ends. I'm not gonna have material squeezing out on either side, so this is good. Um, and then I'm gonna also want to do this to the other side of my material. So grab the other end, and I'm gonna start this one the same way that I started the 1st 1 So I had the seam in the middle facing upward, so I'm gonna do the same thing here and we're good here too. So I do have a little bit extra material. You see, my ends aren't lining up very nicely here, so I am gonna go ahead and trim that off. Just gonna push my opinion a little bit further. A spy can make that cut, and I'm just gonna trim it to match my shortest edge here. No, I have a nice straight edge. The next step is going to be just too So a few quick stitches in here to hold this together so that we can take that pin out of there again. You can do this by hand or you can do it by machine. Since I already have my machine set up, I'm just going to be doing it on my machine here. So just using the same thread that I used to So my strapped together originally here. What we want to dio is just make sure that the stitches that were sewing are going to be hidden by our leather piece. In the end, I'm just gonna dio a short little line of stitches in the center here backstage and then actually gonna go ahead. And so one more of those just a little bit lower on the strap toe, hold everything together nicely. So I'm not going all the way off the edge. Because if I get to a point where when I'm putting this inside my leather and it's sticking out a little bit, if I haven't sown all the way to the edge, I can kind of modify my fabric and fold it in on either side if I need Teoh to get it to fit inside. But if I've sewn it all the way to the end, that might make that a little bit trickier. So this is just kind of a way to build in a little bit of room error, just sewing another piece, which is parallel to that last find that way. And I'm gonna cut off this extra fraying material here. So which is below the second line that I just showed. So all my material matches up, so all my material matches up a little bit more evenly here. Okay, so that's what it should look like. And as you can see, this is going to fit pretty much just right around there. I would normally want to have a little bit extra leeway on either side of my strap here. So I would I would normally like this part to be a little bit sinner. But this is still OK because it's not going beyond the edges of our leather, and then I'm going to do the same thing to the other side. So now we've got two ends our fabric here, ready for leather and hardware to be added. 11. Cut + Punch Your Leather Pieces: Okay, So if you haven't already done so go ahead and download the template file for the weather Accent pieces on and select the size that you're going to need for your project. I'm making mine for a lightweight camera, so I'm actually using the smallest size. It's going to come out looking something like this. I'm going to be using this suede cow hide material. I have already cut myself off a sample piece of it, and I have practiced using my leather punch with this. So I'm already comfortable with how this is going to work out. Go ahead and cut out your stencil piece as well that you need to use for making your making your letter. So this is just a suede cow hide elbow patch that I got from Jo Ann Fabric. And I'm going to use a silver far Be to trace this. You can also just use a pencil to do this. As you can see there, the silver Sharpie shows up way more than the pencil. So just so you guys can see this while I'm doing it, I'm going to use this Sharpie. I'm going to be doing a neck strap for my example. So I'm going to be making two of these. And then we just want to use scissors to cut. Cut this out. These air Just these air sewing scissors. They have, like, a flat edge for going along a table for cutting. But you could just use regular scissors as long as they are nice and sharp. It doesn't really matter the exact type of scissors that you use. And I'm just gonna cut along this silver line that I've created here. I'm using the inside of my silver line as a guide here. I want to make sure not to cut in any further. Then that line that I've drawn that inner peace there is actually where our hardware is going to hang from. And, uh, the weight of our camera is going to be supported on that point there. Okay, so now we should have are two other pieces. If you're doing a next drop or just one piece of your doing a risk drop and I still have my central here, and I'm going to go ahead and use these holes. Teoh, finish off my stencil. So I'm going to use our hand sewing leather punch here, and I'm going to punch out the holes in just the paper first. That will make it really easy for me to transfer this stencil onto my leather. You don't have to do this full box. You could just dio this U shaped here. The holes that are darker that are actually black on the stencil are the ones that you definitely have to do. And then these grey dots along this line here at the bottom are not required. So I'm just going to dio the u shape. So I'm just gonna punch out those holes just carefully go along and punched as close to write in the dead center as you can for each of those. Okay, So once I'm done with that, I'm going to lay my stencil on top of my leather piece, and then I'm going to take either a pencil or here again, you come use a silver sharpie to go ahead and mark these holes. So I'm gonna go ahead and mark on the same side from when I was tracing my central before. So, that way this part of the leather can be kept to the inside. I actually recommend if you can. If this will show up on the leather that you're using, use a sharp pencil point to do this next part to benefit to using a sharp tipped pencil is it'll actually create not just a mark, but also an indent on your leather that will be helpful when you're going to actually punch the holes. So if you're using a pencil, what you'll dio is just make sure your central is nice and lined up and then just make a dot in each hole. So I know that this isn't going to be visible to the camera. So I'm gonna get go ahead and you keep that in the same spot there, and I'm gonna use this Sharpie instead. Okay, so I'm gonna check and make sure that that went through before I move. It looks like we're good. And another thing that you can dio after this step of transferring your stencil is you can go back in with a pencil and make your marks a little bit more defined. As you can see, I'm not. I'm not coloring with my pencil. I'm just pressing harder on each spot, so I'm trying to keep the actual point as as sharp as possible. That'll help us get a really straight line. Um, when were punching our leather here in the next step? So the next step is to take our leather punch and go ahead and punch these holes. So again, just try to do it right where you made those marks before and just take your time to match up tow line up your punch with those holes. Okay, so now I've got the same pattern punched into my leather. So the next thing that we need to do is get the same holes punched on this side, and we need them tow line up with the ones that we already have on this side. Because when we're sowing, we're going to be sewing from one side to the other. So in order to do that, we're going to go ahead and fold this over ondas long as that looks pretty good, we're going to go ahead and take a pencil and poke through onto the other side. So here I can't use my fat silver sharpie. Um, if I had a thin one, I could probably use that here, But I'm just going to use the pencil because this is more, uh, accurate. Anyway, give us me a nice sharp point toe work with. And I am just poking my pencil through each hole and onto the other side of the leather that's folded underneath it. This should give me a really nice matchup when we're going to sew these leather caps on the ends of our strap at the end. And I'm just gonna be the same thing on this side. If you are making a next strap, then you need to go ahead and do the same exact thing to another piece of leather. Okay, so our next step is going to be to prepare sewing are leather caps onto the ends of our strap. 12. Pre-Stitch Fabric to Leather: Okay, So our next step is going to be to prepare Sewing are leather caps onto the ends of our strap. So if we're making a next trap again, we'll be doing one leather piece on the end of each. If you're making a wrist strap, there is just one other quick stuff that we want to do here before we move on to adding the leather. And that's just to take the two ends and to sew them together. And I'm just gonna make sure that the ends are nicely lined up. And then so the scene, but all line that I did for the individual strap ins, Okay, so the next thing that I'm going to do is just prepare my strap ends before I saw them in. So if I lay the end of my neck strap piece in here, you can see that I have a little bit extra material there on the edge. So what I'm going to do is just trim that and I'm gonna go out into that on both sides, So, yeah, we're gonna be able to So that and without any spillover, the next step here is just to make sure that we have our leather oriented correctly. So if we have marks on one photo are leather. We need to put that to the inside. What I'm first going to Dio is so this toe 1/2 of my leather piece. So this next part is a hand sewing part, So going to grab a needle and thread that matches my weather, I'm gonna give myself about to your feet. Uh, read doubled through my needle. The way I like to do this is to tie, but not at least two inches from the end so that I can tie this in with my finished and later and then I'm going to start by going through my family, Rick, so that my fabrics will catch that. Not so here. I'm going tow line us up with just one side of my weather, and I'm actually gonna pull this hardware off for now, getting in my way, and I'm gonna line it up with one side. Take a look at where my whole is my first full is there and going to put my needle through the fabric first and then find my whole here. Here. I've got my needle coming through and I want to confirm that that's my first hole, and that looks good. So go ahead and pull this all the way through. And the first step that we wanna do here is to just so this one stitch. So just from one whole, right into the next full right below it And we just want to so this stitch a few times. So I've pulled through that one stitch, and now I'm just gonna go over the same stitch again. I just gently poke hook up with the needle until it goes through easily. And I can I can also see the needle starting to poke up through the leather. That's how I'm finding the spot here through the fabric and leather. And again, I'm just gonna go straight down for the whole below it. I'm trying. Teoh, do the's stitches a straight as possible so that the leather is really connecting with the fabric that's right below it. It will give us the most secure connection there. So now that I've gone up and back through this first stitch twice, I'm gonna go ahead and secure this, so I'm just gonna go ahead and cut that off and I'm gonna tie this off. Two knots should do it. You know what to do. It's super tight. You don't want to, like, pull in on your leather too much and then cut it really close so that none of your threads will be hanging outside of the leather once for it on. And then I'm going to dio the exact same thing to the other side right here that looking my fabric in place with my leather wallet, sewing the rest of it, going todo through my fabric and then a little bit of poking around until I find the whole And once I found it, I can just pull it through and then back down straight down into the hole next to it. I'm gonna do one more of those same stitches in the center, and that will just keep this strap from twisting or anything while we're sewing through both layers. So same thing poking around a little bit to find it in There goes and I am always making sure since I'm using a double layer of thread here, um, sometimes one half of it likes to come through, and it leaves a little bubble of the other. So just kind of want to keep an eye out for that so that we don't leave any threads bubbling up loose on the outer portion that's visible and you'll notice at this point I don't have the hardware attached to my strap just yet. The hardware that I'm using, I actually do not have to have it on here at all. I could if I wanted Teoh put it on after I have sown it because I have a split ring and the split ring will allow me toe loop that through the leather. But if you're doing something like a dearing, you will need to go ahead and put that on now before we start sewing with this top piece of leather on there, too. 13. Attach Hardware + Finish Sewing: I friended my needle again with a new piece of thread, Just a reasonable length. A couple feet long again, it's doubled. So we'll have a nice strong stitch here. And I have attached my hardware so that now that we're closing it up, it'll be on there. So I am going to start this first stitch, actually, just below the top corners. We've already sound that that spot. So I'm gonna go into that lower portion, that second hole that we had gone down through on the 1st 1 and that's where I'm gonna begin. So yeah, I'm starting with my needle, just going through the fabric and the first Slayer, And that's because I want my not to end up on the inside here. And now we're going to so with the leather piece together. So now I just need to make sure that each stitch that I'm making, um, that I'm going through the right holes on either side. So here I'm on the second hole. I've come up through the second hole and I'm gonna go down through the 3rd 1 so you could feel it actually went through a hole on the other side and I want to make sure that its 3rd 1 and it is so That's good. Um, the holes are actually a lot easier to see on this side, and they were on the other. And then I am just gonna go down through the fourth hole and I'll be coming up through the fourth full on this side and to readjust my need a little bit. I just All I did there was pull it back a little. It had it had gone in the wrong hole. So I pulled it back a little and then readjusted my needle and poked it back up through the leather on the right hole. So through the fourth, full and down through the fifth hole up through that hole here, sure, we'll tail stays free. And then I'm gonna go down through this corner hole here and make sure that it comes up through the corner hole on the opposite side. So the way that this is going, we are Onley going to see every other stitch. We want to see every stitch, and we want to have a nice, secure connection between our fabric and our leather. So we're gonna go around once sewing through this set of holes and then when we come back from the other side, we're gonna go one off of what we're doing right now, so we'll end up coming back through The holes that we didn't hit before will be going through the opposite way. So where we were going up before will be going down on the way back and you'll get better at this as you go along. I definitely recommend that you always check to make sure that the threat is laying nicely on the side that you just came from. So I just come up through my second to last hole here and, um, going to go through over that first initial steps that I had made, which was on Lee through the one side of the leather. And now we're gonna make sure that it goes through all the way, and this will be the beginning of us filling in all those stitch gaps that we had on both sides. So I just came up through that top hole and I'm going back down through the second hole and you'll see as we go here that this will fill in the gaps that we've left in our stitching. And here you should be able to tell that you're on the right one, because you should be coming up in a hole that doesn't have a stitch next to it the way that you're gonna be going. So this whole has a stitch above it, but it doesn't yet have a stitch below it. So that's how you can kind of gauge you're coming up through the right hole without counting your holes. So coming up through this almost at the bottom here, it's good and going down through the six, which is also the corner hole, if you see there. When I pulled it through, I'm using this double, uh, doubled thread, and sometimes 1/2 of the thread gets separated from the other side, and it doesn't come through all the way. So in order to fix that, I am going Teoh, pull gently with my fingernail on the other side, and that kind of separates the threads from each other and allows you to pull on each one separately. The other alternative there, and you always want to be whichever method you're using. You always want to be doing it really gently. But the other way to fix it is Teoh just actually grab one side of that thread and give it a little gentle tug. And if that one's not working, then switch and it's probably gonna be give the other side a gentle tug. Okay, so I'm about in my last stitch here, going over this 1st 1 that I had done one of my preliminary stitches toe hold that strap in place. And now I'm finishing off this last stitch on the side here, so are almost done. So for this last stitch, I'm not gonna go all the way through the stop layer of leather. I'm just gonna go up through the fabric, can see my needle coming out there, make sure that's playing. I said smoothly. And then what I'm going to do, pull my leather bag here so you can see I'm just gonna put my needle in the fabric right next to worse where it's coming out. And then I'm gonna so down and just have it come out right next to this tale that I have here so I can tie this off with that tail. It's gonna tie a double knot right here and then cut it off Nice and close. Not right next to it. Leave. Likes half centimeters still on there. And that is it for the wrist strap. Now, if you are doing your next strap, then you're gonna want to go ahead and do the same thing to the other side. 14. Finishing Touches: now again, if you want to have more finished look, you can finish off these edges by using leather glue, and what you would do is just put a little bit of glue along the edge here and glue it to the other piece above it. Usually you have to let it set for at least an hour after you apply the glue. But just use a real small amount. You don't want to make a big mess or anything. Some things that we would want to do to finish this off. I do have a little thread hanging out here, so I'm gonna go ahead in trim that make sure not to cut the fabric when you're doing something like this. Okay, here it looks like my edges don't match up perfectly. I'm going to take my sisters and cut just a little strip off. I want those edges to look I really miss and clean and matchup. So now they'll match up nicer when I go to glue them 15. Upload a Photo of Your Completed Camera Strap in Your Class Project: Now that you're all done with your new camera strap, don't forget to upload a photo of your new creation to your class project to share with your classmates. Thank you for taking the class.