Custom Photo Murals with Engineering Prints | Lissabeth Anglin | Skillshare

Custom Photo Murals with Engineering Prints

Lissabeth Anglin, Doing all the things, coffee in hand.

Custom Photo Murals with Engineering Prints

Lissabeth Anglin, Doing all the things, coffee in hand.

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9 Lessons (46m)
    • 1. Intro

    • 2. Materials

    • 3. Prepping your files for printing

    • 4. Printing

    • 5. Prepping for Hanging

    • 6. Hanging Part 1

    • 7. Hanging Part 2

    • 8. Finishing Up

    • 9. Assignment

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About This Class

This class details how to make a stunning, completely custom mural for your space, at a fraction of the cost of custom wallpaper. If you've got a D.I.Y. bone, and a great design to display, this is the class for you!

I've created several murals with engineering prints, and this time I'm tackling a constellation-themed mural in my son's room. Watch in real-time (and super sped-up-time) as I get it done. I'll be sharing all my tips and tricks along the way.

Can't wait to see your projects!

Meet Your Teacher

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Lissabeth Anglin

Doing all the things, coffee in hand.


Hi there! I'm Lissa Anglin, and I've been a professional wedding and portrait photographer for over 10 years. I specialize in clean, classic images which are above all, genuine. Over the years, I've met many people who had "fancy" cameras, but didn't know how to use them! I LOVE teaching people how to make the most out of the camera they have and learn to enjoy photographing their kids and adventures. So, I've landed here on Skillshare to share what I've learned and hopefully inspire a few others to go out and create!

View my work @ Insta: @lissaanglin & @lissaanglinphoto

Read my blog @

The Moms Who Snap Facebook Group- it's an open group- come join us!

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1. Intro: I think I'm Lissa, England. Thank you so much for taking out my class. I am going to teach you how to create an engineering print mural like the one behind me that I created for my son's room on engineering. Prints are super awesome. Inflexible. There a low cost way to make a big impact with your artwork or your design. And I love to show you how to do it. Now, this process is not for the perfectionist. You're gonna need to leave that home. You need to have a laid back attitude to get it done, but is a lot of fun. And I think you'll really love the results. And if you're ready, todo and ready cry humor your mural. I recommend setting aside a couple of days, you're gonna need to let things dry in between. It'll take a little bit on. And I would also recommend going ahead and watching all of the sections of this class first just so that you're familiar with the whole process and what all that entails because I'll have tips throughout the entire class that may help you, you know, before you get started. So let's gather materials and get started 2. Materials: Okay, So here are materials for putting the actual engineering prints on the wall. You are gonna need a paint tray, and obviously, mine has been quite used. But this is all stuck on there pretty good on. So I'm not worried about it Flaking you're gonna need a paint roller. Obviously, this one is just a general use. Um, it was one of the Tiber wins. You don't need anything fancy. You do want something that is. You don't want it to be too thick and not too thin. So I would get, like, a medium, uh, thickness here, Andi. Then thistles. Leftover wall paint and thes brushes are the best toe have their very wide and flat. I like a square brush. I'm often holding it like this and working it that way. Especially when I'm applying on the wall and pain. The other thing you're gonna need is wallpaper paste. So I just picked this up at lows, and I think it was about $15 for the container. I think I might run out of this so you may grab a couple depending on the size of your wall . Andan the other thing, you're gonna want to Dio is go ahead and prepare your wall. Now we This is the while I'm going to be putting the print on this'll entire space right here. And we went ahead and prepped it and painted Theo entire wall. This was like a mint green color before, but we went ahead and painted all of the walls the color that I wanted them to be, along with the color underneath the engineering print That's not going to be super imported on been fact, I may end up seeing just depending on how well I dio, I may end up seeing some of the cracks in the engineering prints. And if that happens, I'm just going to go in with, like, a paintbrush and maybe some black paint because the majority of my mural is black, um, and kind of fill in there. But go ahead and prep your wall space 3. Prepping your files for printing: Okay, so now it is time to actually prepare our files to be printed on. And we're going to do that in Adobe Photo Shop. I am actually using Adobe Photo Shop CC since I have the subscription. But if you don't have the subscription, you can probably still use Adobe Photoshopped elements, Um, or really any version of photo shop, because we're really only using very basic tools here. All you're going to need to do is really create a canvas and crop and safe. So, um, let's get started doing that. Now you do want to go ahead and select your artwork for your mural and a couple of tips I have on that are select something organic instead of maybe geometric because you're hanging this. So you know, precision is going to really really matter when you're doing something geometric that needs toe line up perfectly. If you have more of an organic element, like a photograph or I'm here, mine is like a space theme, and it's kind of got all sorts of different shades and varieties. If something's a little off, you're not going to see it as much. And I am printing in black and white because a that's a little bit less expensive than color. You can get engineering prints and full color, but I think it's three or four times the price. Um, so I'm choosing to do black and white here That also just fits the theme of my son's room. But you can do color as well. So go ahead and make those decisions before you get started. You're also going to want to measure your wall that you're putting the mural on. So, um, my wall in particular is 15 feet by seven feet nine inches, and I'm going to go ahead and expand it to eight feet. Um, just to make it a little bit easier on me. And, um, I can always cut off um, the the paper where I need to once I'm actually putting it on so more is always better. So the first thing that you're going to dio is, um, create a canvas. So I've already got my image pulled up for my mural, but I'm gonna go ahead and create a customized second, um, canvas size that fits exactly to the wall. So I'm gonna go to file new um and I am going to actually pare this down to about half of what I typically would. Um, I have found in my experience that, um, a 2 to 1 ratio is really okay for printing engineering prints. They're not the most crisp and detailed, but that's okay, because it's a mural. And so it's really going to be Butte viewed from a distance and to save on file size, it's much easier to do a 2 to 1 ratio than a 1 to 1 plus in my crusher computer. So, um, the longest, um, the longest at length of our wall here is 15 feet. So let's bust out the calculator 15 feet. Times 12 is 180 I'm gonna divide that by two, which will be 90 inches. And then the eight foot ceiling height. Um, we'll go down to four foot, Really? So 48 will be my Hi. I'm gonna keep the resolution at 300 I'm gonna go ahead and put the color mode and gray scale just to not confuse the printer when I get there. Obviously, if you're doing in color, you're gonna wanna print it in, see him like a or RGB I would recommend seeing y que because that is what most printing at places use. So let's hit, create, And there is our campus. Now, the very next thing that we're going to dio is, um, take our our original image and drag it over and let me double check to make sure that this is all in one layer. Okay, good. I'm gonna drag it to the new campus using the trigger, The move tool, this little plus sign right here at the very top. So I picked it up and drag it over, and you can see that it has landed here and you can actually see the expansion of what All is actually on this canvas, and clearly it is much smaller than my overall canvas. And let's go back. I'm going to show you a quick way to up size so that you don't lose so much quality. Um, so I'm gonna go ahead and trash this layer right here and just give you an example of one way to make your artwork a tiny bit larger, um, and kind of retain some of your, um, your detail. Now, that's not something that you're gonna be able to retain completely because we are in photo shop. If you had a vector image like with an illustrator, you might be able to retain perfectly sharp lines. But then again, like I said earlier, this is a mural. You're not super concerned about getting all of that crisp detail. What, you are going to go to image, image size and then change this inches bar 2%. And we're just going to type in 1 10 Um, and you can see the little preview. It's going to make it just 10% larger. Um, and you can really do that as many times as you want. I'll do it a few times here. Just Teoh. Do it for the sake of showing you guys, Um, it's just going to slowly expand those pixels and a little bit more preservative of away than it will if you transform it, which is what I'm about to do next. Because I in my experience, I have not seen that huge of a difference. So I'm gonna take the move tool right here, click on it, drag it over to my new canvas, and there is, um, obviously there's some excess in the background here, and I'm gonna hit command T You can also go, Teoh edit Transform free transform right there. And I'm gonna hold down the shift key. Now, this is super important to keep the scale on your image. If you don't hold down the shift key, it will do wonky things like this and get your image all out of proportion. Um, so hold down the shift key. So that stays exactly how you wanted to do as you click and drag to make it fit your canvas . And if all of a sudden it becomes a little bit too large, um, just go over here to the navigator and you can make your extra space a little bit bigger. If you're not seeing the Navigator, go to your window panel and then hit Navigator and that part will show up for you. We're going to continue to click and drag until it starts to look like we want it in the actual room. And then when I'm ready, I just double click to transform and apply it. And there we are. Okay, Now, what we're going to do next is actually give ourselves a little bit of grace, which is always helpful. Eso I'm going to go ahead and add a two inch border around the entire piece so that just in case we get a little awful, we're putting it on the wall. It is. OK, so I'm going to go to image canvas size, and then I'm gonna add two inches to the whip and two with and too interested a height. Okay, Now you can see obviously that that it it went off a little bit. So I'm gonna transform one more time, pull those to the edges, and now the whole pieces, like, two inches larger than it actually needs to be, just in case it's trust me, it's worth it to pay for those two extra inches on those engineering prints just to save yourself the gives you get in trouble. So again, I'm double clicking so that it applies the transformation. Now, the very next thing that you're going to do is, um, we're gonna set our guides so we can crop properly. In order to do that, we need to have the ruler showing so you can hit, um window. Oh, I don't know where other does view rulers or command are will bring up the rulers right here on the top and on the side. And the first thing after we do that we're going to do is add a new guide in the very middle, vertically and horizontally. We want to see the dead center port, part portion of this, um, piece. So we're gonna go to view all the way down to new guide, and we're gonna enter a 50% horizontal lying do that again. Four of vertical lying's a 50% there, 50% there. Okay, that's just a helpful thing. Toe, Have I'll just like toe have those on there. So the next thing is going to be really important, you're gonna need to know where your printing, your engineering prints. Because I actually called FedEx where I'm gonna go get these printed. And they told me that they can print up to 36 inches, 36 inches in width. I'm in pretty much any length. So what I'm going to do is size my pieces that I'm about to make to 36 inches and then make a reasonable cut horizontally so that I can actually get the piece on the wall. So in order to do that, I'm going to go back to view and have a new guide. And I'm gonna make a horizontal line because I'm going to piece it out horizontally. So I'm thinking about it. Like you would read a book from the upper left to the upper. Right? So I'm gonna position this at 36 are actually not 36 inches. It would be half of 36 inches because I'm scaling this piece. So let's divide that. So what, 18 inches? Perfect. Okay, um, and then the next one, we're gonna add another 18 inches to that, which would be 36 inches. So we're gonna do another new guide at 36 inches. Okay. Now, just to eliminate confusion now, I'm going to eliminate that horizontal one. I guess I didn't need it in the first place, but it just it feels really good for me to see where the words on a line is to double check myself said to get rid of that horizontal line because I know I'm not gonna actually crop there. I'm gonna just pull all the way back up into the ruler. Okay? So now my pieces divided pretty evenly into 36 sections, including the vertical line in the middle which were actually about to change. Um, and in order to make it easier when I'm actually placing them on the wall, I'm gonna go ahead and divide this into third, so I will have nine pieces total on, and this is just really up to you. How long you want to make your pieces? But I wouldn't recommend making them super long because it's going to be difficult to get them on the wall. So, um, overall, we said, What is this? This is a 15 foot wit, so let's go ahead and dio Ah, five feet. Ah, long pieces that will give us, um, nine pieces total. Okay, so this is a 5 15 fit wall, so we're gonna divide this into three parts. Ah, which will make us 35 foot pieces. Um, so let's go ahead and do 15 feet times 12 1 80 So our overall pieces 90 um, divided by three would make that 30 inches. So I'm gonna go ahead and save you new guide, and we're gonna make vertical lines now, so I'm gonna type in 30. Get rid of this middle. Now that we don't need it. I guess we didn't need it in the first place. I'm sorry, you guys. That felt really good. Um, but 30 and then 30 plus 30 is 60. So now we have six, uh, nine pieces Now, what I'm going to do now is give ourselves a little bit more grace because of the way this is gonna sit on the wall. I want to make sure and have some overlap in all of my printing pieces. So what I'm going to do is add, um, some additional ruler or some additional ruler guidelines two inches above and below each of these main lines on, and I'll show you why in a moment. So all I'm going to do to in order to do that, zoom in a bit right here. It's a lot easier to read where your guides are actually at when you zoom in and I'm just going to click and drag my guide, someone a drag one from the top. Here, this is set at 18 inches, so I'm gonna set this one at 16 inches and 20 inches. What? I'm gonna go down here and do the same thing. 34 38. Then we're going to do the same at the top or with the vertical lines. So 32 28 just two inches on either side. And this is just to give myself some leeway, um, so that I will be able to match up my pieces really easily. So that is what our guides are looking like right now. So now it's time to crop and make our actual files for printing. And to do that, we're going to use the marquee tool. It's this little dashed, um, lines right there. For some reason, it's on a circle or some other shape. You're going to just right, click on there and select, but you want the dash line. Um, go ahead and put your style in normal. You don't necessarily want a fixed ratio or fix size for this part right here. So let's go ahead and start with our very first. I'm gonna click. Oops. I'm gonna click and drag all the way down. And what's so nice is it's gonna tell you exactly how large your piece is. I'm gonna go over to the furthest, um, guideline as I possibly can. So the bottom here in the bottom here. So this is actually two inches over where we need it to be, Um, and make sure that you can see all of the dash lines as you're working. If for some reason you know it's not all on their your crop is not gonna be correct. So I can see all of the dash lines and I'm gonna hit image crop Now, just in case you may double check yourself because you don't want to get to the printer and have, ah, piece that is too wide. So I'm gonna go back to image image size. Switch this back over two inches in double check to make sure that these pieces are not over 36 inches, which is my printers Maximum. This one is at 32 inches, which is great. So I'm gonna hit okay, file save as. And I'm going to go to my folder that I need and create a new folder called Parent. I really like to make it very easy for the people of FedEx to find. And I'm gonna call this one. Ah, and I'm saving as a pdf making sure that I get it in a high quality print right here. The very top. Nothing else really matters. It's going to save that for me. And once it is saved, we're going to go back and create the rest. So now that we've got number one saved, I'm gonna go back over here to my history panel. If you're not seeing your history panel, go to window and click on history. You will see it going to history, going to go backwards so that the crop is removed. I'm gonna hit command D for D Select. And then I'm going to start over. So I'm gonna go to the furthest, um, guideline over here. Click and drag it to where it is. Two inches to the left, into the right and two inches on the bottom. Image crop double. Check that with it should be the same as the one before it. And then we're gonna call that too. Okay, let's do number three. Make sure I see all my marquee lines. OK, Now it's time for the middle row. And for the middle row, I'm gonna go ahead and do as large of a square as I can So getting part of the top row and the bottom row for overlap crop it. I'm in a double check to make sure. Awesome. This is 32 inch wit. So save that as number four and I'm gonna continue going on and on throughout the rest of the, um the panel's making sure that I overlap each one, Um, so that when I printed out, I could easily overlap them on the wall, and that is it. So you're gonna want to save that onto a USB drive to take into the store, um, to get imprinted. 4. Printing: Okay, so I am here. FedEx and I'm having my prints printed. They've been super helpful. We had the printer malfunction in the middle of it. So you certainly want to go to a place that you trust. Don't try to do it yourself on the machine and make sure that you go to a person and they custom size it to the exact dimensions that your files are so that there are scaled or sized. Weird. You want to double check that? Also, you want to make sure that they super high quality. So here's the big printers getting out. My, um, my files on here are some that have already been printed. I'm gonna show you close up there right now. So, like I said, you want toe, have them printed in the highest quality you can on the's. Engineering prints are actually pretty sane. And you can tell that there's just been Cem because most of my print is black. You know, the ink is making it kind of wrinkled, which is just really fine. And that's gonna happen on the wall anyway, so I'm not too concerned about that. But these air really large files. There 36 inches wide and 36 inches high, and then they're probably three or four feet long. They vary a little bit because of the overlap in the way, the wall, the size of the wall. But you can see that the print quality is pretty good. There's still a little bit of where, but not too bad. And once it's on the wall, it's gonna look really good overall. So I'm not too concerned about that. Um, here is the large engineering part machine printing out the next one. Another thing that I am doing as being sure toe label. Um, the bottom corner. I'm on the underside of the print, the number of the file that is being printed so that when I get home and lay it all out, I can kind of have a cheat sheet by looking at the number and where it goes in the lineup. So that's important when other thing I forgot to mention is that you can see that the machine automatically prints out a little light border and, like these are the bottom pieces, so there's a little bit more of a white border on the bottom of those which is no big deal will turn those off before we lay it out, too. Start putting on the world. OK, so I got all my prints. There are nine of them. Total. They're pretty large, but I'm gonna take him home and get him ready to go. That definitely took an hour and 1/2. So prepare yourselves. It will take a while. 5. Prepping for Hanging: Okay, so we are in the space that I'm going to be putting the mural line. I'm gonna be doing it on this back wall right here. And we went ahead and painted underneath that this room was kind of a mint green color, and I didn't really want any of that color showing through. So we painted all the walls the same basic white on, because that's what I wanted the other walls to be. You don't necessarily have to toe paint underneath your mural. It's not necessarily condition through, but if it's a very bright color and you don't want it showing through, you might go ahead, painted a neutral shade of gray. Why, I'm something like that. Now, my engineering prints are very dark. Most of my mural is black. There's a good chance you might see a crack or something like that, depending on how well I get these on the wall. But my my thought in doing that is I can go in and use a paintbrush and just touch it up a little bit, maybe with some black on to kind of conceal those spaces. So make sure that your Wallace already prepped. We went ahead and removed all the outlet covers and all the window coverings. And it's nice and clean. And now we're going to get started on the engineering prince. Okay, so So each of these prince has a little tiny white border on them that came when I printed them on the very first thing I'm gonna do. Just go ahead and cut those off. And I'm just going to use basic scissors. No fancy paper cutter, anything here because I don't have one this big. So I'm just gonna use my sisters and do my very best to cut straight lines and get with that white border first. Okay, so I have everything cut that took a while on. I went ahead and laid out the prints as best I could. I don't have too much space in here, but I was able to just literally connect the dots and kind of see where my overlaps are on in just double check and measure to make sure that it will cover this being of the wall. So we're good to go there, Onda. And now we're going to start actually putting it on the wall. And I would recommend having a buddy for this. If you don't, it might literally be a sticky situation 6. Hanging Part 1: Okay, So I'm actually going to start from the very bottom of this mural because there's a a moon shaped that I want to be sure to get in as much as we possibly can. So I'm gonna start at the bottom and go up for this. I think normally I would start at the top and go down, but because of this design, I'm gonna actually start. But so the first thing I'm gonna do is fill my paint container with some wallpaper paste and get a good even amount with my roller and head to that location on the wall and give it a nice, even like coat before we go ahead and place the first square. Okay, Were there first. It is the most important lended it. And we're gonna go right along the edge of these flat there. Actually, you know what? Give me a little a couple of inches this way. And is it lined up right there? Okay, then you come out starting in the mill and sleeping. How we actually have a little bit overhang, which is good, because I can go in and cut later. And I would ride over the outlets that's on the wall here. You're just gonna wanna rub it really good to make sure that and it here's all over the paper. I really love it. That's just gonna happen. So I could be a few places that are still not adhering to the wall. Super Well, so I mean, they grab Cem, he's my brush and live it on the backside. Kind of feel it off backside if I can. - So there is an outlet right over here on. I'm gonna use my Exacto knife to cut. Ah, hole where ya'll it is. So just set that down so I could feel it right here underneath, creating a bit of a bubble. I'm gonna cut as close to the plugs as I can just to make a little full. I don't want to make my pet two large, obviously. Here we go. Now we're perfectly there now. There are still some spots where it hasn't adhered to the wall very well. You can kind of feel bubbles. Um and I am creating some wrinkles in the in the paper, but I'm not too concerned about that. Like I said, I suggest picking a very organic looking designed because what I'm gonna do now is get some wallpaper paste on my brush and start to sweep it across just to wet the paper of it and get it to here to the wall a little bit better. And that is gonna pick up a little bit of EQ. But it's really not gonna hurt my design because it's not quite enough to make it look really bad. So that's super important. That's what I'm gonna do next. This will just help Kind of flatten it out and get it really here to that. I wanted to get rid of all the air bubbles. This is really so it's not a hearing, is all that one right here in this corner? Um, and within a certain amount of time, you still have the ability to pick it out. Rule it before it gets, too, and we'll rip. It's going to be a little bit more generous with I'm just lying away. Get really holding it always. So right now I'm going, Teoh, take care of this little flat. Hold over. My pieces overlap and I'm just gonna put pace underneath and it here it on top. Way to take a break, and what did they give you? A little tip if you need to take a break, but you don't clean your brushes out. Just put them in a plastic bag and put them in your fridge and they will stay nice and wet . Hello Inc is a really any job, especially if you have, and a black a lot of black on your printer for your engineering friends, we'll be right back. 7. Hanging Part 2: Okay, so we finally get all the pieces on the wall. And as you can see, we had quite a bit of overlap at the top. If you start your project from the top down, it's going to be at the bottom. But I'm really thankful to have that instead of shorted. So what I'm going to do right now is wait for this wall to finish drying, because the you'll see when she start the paper is very delicate when it's wet. So in order for me to trim it all up, I really need it for I really need it to be dry and stiff so that it it cuts better cut. Scharping doesn't just stop and tear, so I'm gonna walk you through a few of the struggle points of putting the stuff on the wall . But it's all worth in the end, I promise. All right, so as you can see, this paper is going to wrinkle on, and once it's dry, it's not a huge bother to me, but just know it's gonna wrinkle and honestly, kind of like the effect. It just adds texture in my mind, Um, but you can see how I cut around the outlet down there. Um, a few of the hardest points were to make sure that it lined up with the outer wall. So any time I was doing an edge, we tried to align that as best we could and then line up the star structures. It didn't always happen. But honestly, I don't think you're going to notice when we're finished. When it came to this window, that was a little bit difficult. And as you can see, as you have seen in the other video, that we had to kind of place it on and then cut it to fit. And clearly I struggled. Some right here tour a little bit and up to there. But, um, what I'm going to do is just let it dry and paint that in later. 8. Finishing Up: Okay, so we let the wall dry overnight, and it is looking really good. I'm really pleased with how the adhesive dried. This up here is a little intimidating to me right now. It would have been much easier to do this part had I started from the top down. But alas, I wanted that moon really well visible. So it's a bit I'm going to now trim the outer edges. Now that they're hard and dry, it's gonna be a lot easier for my exact and I have to cut through it. So I'm gonna I'm gonna basically just hold it up to where it needs to be trimmed. Cut it, then go back in, put adhesive on it and make sure that it is really well sealed to the wall. Hopefully, that will be done with the cutting process, and I can start finishing it. Okay. I actually went a lot easier. Gonna one. I had quite a few pieces that had adhere to the wall. There were excess pieces that need to be cut off. So, like when I would trim it, it would stay, you know, kinda have to rip it off, and part of it was still left on the wall. I'm either the baseboard with the ceiling of the side of the wall that's not supposed to have print. So what I did that doing was after I rip cockles as much as I can. I just got a warm a towel with warm water and rubbed it off on. Thankfully, since the adhesive is water soluble, it'll come off pretty easily. You have to be careful to make sure that you're not rubbing the actual wall because it will make it very soft again and able to run off. So now I'm going to go ahead and make sure that all of the edges are really where well adhered with just a paintbrush in tomorrow. - Okay , so that was pretty well, I got all the edges around the wall nice and clean. There are still a few rough patches, places like this where it ripped and a little bit lower here as well. Efficiency. And then I'm just not happy with because it looks really rough. So what I'm going to dio is you lie. Some of the excess prints that I still have and has no design is pretty organic. I think I'm just gonna patchwork it, so I'm just gonna cut a few pieces that are a little bit similar. One of the things I really like about this style is that you could kind of see where each of the sheets EMS and I kind of like that patchwork type. Look, it's very subtle, but I think it adds to it. So I could certainly paint this since its black. That would be pretty easy. That, of course, if it's a great tone or color, it would be more difficult to match that color in paint. And another reason I want to go ahead and just use my excess paper is because I wanted to be the same texture. So I'm literally just going toe like Beckham posh this with my wallpaper, cut out a few pieces, throw them on there like a Band Aid, and they get all clean and pretty. Okay, going, Teoh, coat the entire wall with the coat of polyurethane on. You don't have to do this option, but I'm doing it specifically because this is a Children's room, and I know eventually something's gonna get on the wall that I'm gonna need a white often so this will be a great protective coat for that. I picked up mid wax poly acrylic, and I do not recommend using an oil based polyurethane. So that's why I picked up the public garlic. Just make sure, says water base, and they have three different types of finishes and you're welcome to choose whichever you like. And they have gloss satin or mats. And I would have picked up the matches because I like the deep black tone, and I think that the mat will only enhance that. So, lastly, I'm just gonna coat this a couple times with polyurethane and way. 9. Assignment: Okay, you guys, we are finished. Thank you so much for sticking with me through the whole class. And I sure hope you have a beautiful mural to enjoy at this point. Please. I would love to see what you create, and I would love for you to post your photos in the class project. That was your assignment for this class is let us see your beautiful work. And I'd love to also hear your comments on how this process went for you. If you have any tips for the rest of us, please feel free to share. Thanks so much again. And I hope you enjoyed your mural class.