Continental Knitting for Beginners | Monica T. | Skillshare

Playback Speed


  • 0.5x
  • 1x (Normal)
  • 1.25x
  • 1.5x
  • 2x

Continental Knitting for Beginners

teacher avatar Monica T., Loves knitting toys.

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

19 Lessons (2h 25m)
    • 1. Introduction to the Course

      2:58
    • 2. Why Continental Knitting?

      1:19
    • 3. What You Need to Take this Course?

      7:07
    • 4. Long-tail Cast-on

      8:15
    • 5. How to Hold Your Yarn

      2:49
    • 6. Knit Stitch Continental Style

      5:38
    • 7. How to Bind Off Your Work

      4:47
    • 8. Project 1 - Knitting Your Washcloth

      10:37
    • 9. Project 1 - Binding Off

      8:38
    • 10. Project 1 - Chaining on a Loop

      3:39
    • 11. Project 1 - Weaving in the Ends

      4:40
    • 12. Purl Stitch Continental Style

      18:07
    • 13. Rib Stitch - Combining Knitting and Purling

      12:17
    • 14. Mattress Stitch - Sewing Your Work Together

      8:04
    • 15. Project 2 - Casting On

      10:19
    • 16. Project 2 - Colour Change

      3:14
    • 17. Project 2 - Binding Off

      4:00
    • 18. Project 2 - Completing the Project

      12:39
    • 19. BONUS: How to Fix Mistakes When Knitting

      16:14
  • --
  • Beginner level
  • Intermediate level
  • Advanced level
  • All levels
  • Beg/Int level
  • Int/Adv level

Community Generated

The level is determined by a majority opinion of students who have reviewed this class. The teacher's recommendation is shown until at least 5 student responses are collected.

266

Students

--

Projects

About This Class

Continental Knitting for Beginners is a short course aimed at complete beginners to knitting who wish to learn knitting the continental way. It is also suitable for knitters of other styles (like English) who would like to learn another way to knit. These learners, however, will be able to skip parts of the course that they will be familiar with such as casting on and binding off. 

In this step-by-step course, I will walk you thorough all the necessary skills to become a knitter. From the tools you need, to how to plan your work, how to start (cast on), how to knit and purl continental style, how to end (bind off), as well as finishing skills such as stitching your work and weaving in the ends. 

This is a foundation course that will equip you will all the skills needed to follow my other classes. 

To practice your skills, the course includes two small projects:

1) a garter stitch washcloth and

2) a colourful, stripy sock for your mobile. 

Meet Your Teacher

Teacher Profile Image

Monica T.

Loves knitting toys.

Teacher

Hello, I'm Monica. I am passionate about continental knitting and love teaching people how to knit. What I've been knitting recently the most is toys and small one-skein projects. My courses are directed at complete beginners as well as intermediate knitters who want to master continental knitting or would like to learn to make cute knitted toys. I hope you enjoy my classes.

See full profile

Class Ratings

Expectations Met?
  • Exceeded!
    0%
  • Yes
    0%
  • Somewhat
    0%
  • Not really
    0%
Reviews Archive

In October 2018, we updated our review system to improve the way we collect feedback. Below are the reviews written before that update.

Why Join Skillshare?

Take award-winning Skillshare Original Classes

Each class has short lessons, hands-on projects

Your membership supports Skillshare teachers

Learn From Anywhere

Take classes on the go with the Skillshare app. Stream or download to watch on the plane, the subway, or wherever you learn best.

Transcripts

1. Introduction to the Course: Hi, I'm Monica from knitting things. And thank you for checking out my course, continental netting for beginners or learning to knit continental style. In this course, you will learn how to knit and I will show you from the very, very beginning, prom, or how to hold the yarn, how to hold the needles. I'll show you how to knit and at the end of it, you will have the basic skills to basically start your journey into the world. We will be working on two projects. First, I will teach you the basic golfer stitch. And you will be knitting this little washcloth with a little sort of hanging loop just to practice your Gothic stitch. And then once you've done this, I will teach you how to Pell. And we will make this mobile phone Salk using both the king and paddling. And I will teach you from the very, very basics. I will teach you how to cast on to start. I will teach you how to knit. I will teach you how to Perl. I will teach you how to do rib stitch, combining knitting and curling. I will teach you how to bind off your work and how to stitch it together. Also, with this little project, I will teach you how to change colors. Now, as the name suggests, I will be teaching you to knit continental style. So it is a different style from what is normally taught. That normally what is taught is that English style, continental style is slightly different. But I think it's a good way to start to learn to knit because continental knitting style is particularly valued for its speed. So if you learn how to knit continental style, you're likely to learn to knit quite fast early on. And that really matters if you are doing a big project like a poncho or a blanket or a sweater, you really want to finish it quickly. So Continental and editing is the style for you. The course will also be useful for those thinkers who have knitted for a very long time, but they've always limited to English style. But probably they will want to skip some of the videos showing them the basic stuff like casting on and binding on. So thank you for checking out my Cause. I hope you will enjoy it. And let's start. 2. Why Continental Knitting?: So if you started watching this course, you may ask yourself, why continental knitting? There are different types. There are different schools of letting. The most common one in the English speaking countries, unsurprisingly is English style knitting continental style is also very, very popular. And like I mentioned before, many people really enjoy knitting continental style because it, it can be faster. Also, it can help people who have problems with tensions or holding the yarn. And sometimes when they knit, their knitting is too tight or too loose. Continental knitting helps you with that. I particularly value continental knitting because that's how I was taught and it really has worked for me. So if you are new to netting, continental dating is a nice way to start. And if you are an experienced knitr, but you come from a different tradition, this course will also be useful for you, even though you may have to skip some of the lessons that will be too basic for you. 3. What You Need to Take this Course?: So what do you need to follow this course and learn continental knitting? Well, unsurprisingly, you will need yarn. I, I at least start off working with this particular yarn. It's super bulky. And I'm also using rather large needles, not very large, but size six. The reason I'm doing this is because I want to show you, and I want you to be able to see exactly what is it that I'm doing? If I used regular yarn that normally would be used for projects and smaller needles, it would be more difficult. But the same yardstick, I didn't want to use a huge knitting needles as some YouTubers use those very, very large knitting needles like size 20-25. Because I don't think it's practical because unless you're going to be knitting a soft furnishings and the rugs and blankets, then you're probably not going to be ever using knitting needle size 25. So I really wanted to use something that is practical, but for the projects. And I leave you to decide what kinda yarn you want to use. Our first project is a washcloth. So if you want to use it as a washcloth, then probably cotton would be a good choice because you want something nice and soft and absorbent. You may want to use acrylic yarn, chunky yarn. If you want to use it, not as a washcloth, but as a sort of a grubby tool too. Pick up like hot pots and pans in the kitchen. That's also doable. What I would suggest in terms of yarn is don't go for anything super fancy. So cheap. Acrylic is great because it's very forgiving. You can, if you make a mistake, you can sort of, you know, I'm Pickett from it back, you know, do it again, rapid grew it again. You know, it's, it's incredibly forgiving that kind of acrylic yarn. If you go for something, expensive, things like Kashmir are not as forgiving. And also if you go for something that is fluffy, like more hair or Angola, it's gonna be really difficult for you to see what is going on. And, you know, basically it's going to be difficult for you to see the stitches. So these kinda yarns are more for like advanced knitters. So go for something simple, go for something cheap. Like acrylic. Don't go for dark colors. Don't pick black yard. Again, you might not be able to see what you're doing. So pick something more in light colors. In terms of knitting needles. Here, I'm using number six for a project later on, I'm going to be using smaller needles number four or 4.5. The most commonly used knitting needles, especially for beginners, are kind of 4.555564 because they are most versatile and you are going to be using them. The moused. Like I said, I wouldn't go for huge city needles because they are not very practical. And I definitely wouldn't go for tiny knitting needles like three or 2.5 because you're going to be knitting something so tiny then you're not going to be able to see anything. And it's going to be really, really difficult if you're a beginner knitr to actually see what you're doing your project. In terms of length. These are 25 centimeter, so they're like shorter than Standards, 35 centimeters. This is predominantly because I don't use those very long knitting needles for filming, but for projects like that, 25 centimeters is great. If you want to buy the standard bigger ones, that's also good. You can buy them plastic, you can buy them aluminum, you can bothered by them Bamboo, whatever. You will have to try different needles to find out what actually works best for you. It's more about what kind of a nitro EUR. So if, if you, and if you find that once you've gone got into your stride and you consistently need quite tightly, then probably aluminum needles would be great with like sharp tips. If you tend to need quite loosely. And then aluminum needles might be a bit tricky because you will keep good dropping stitches. Wooden needles than would be much better for you. But you're going to have to try it all trial and error. But essentially any standard cheap knitting needles, any standard cheap acrylic yarn will do. So that's the basics. Apart from that, what you will need is you will need a crochet hook. For one of our projects. We're going to be changing a little chain for the like, the washcloths, woodcut loops, or you can hang it. But also crochet hook is great for picking stitches that you've dropped and fixing mistakes. You will need something to cut the yarn width so you could use, I use these young shears which I love. I think they're great. But cities are perfectly fine. For stitching. You will need a tapestry needle, sometimes referred to as yarn needle. As you can see, these are quite big and they're very easy to thread because they've got this big ie, I think that's the word eye of a needle. And they curved, curved tip, which is very important because if you're, if you're knitting something bulky like like network, then that curve tip actually makes your life much easier. And then most importantly for me, they blunt. So you're not going to injure yourself. Since whenever I use like something sharp like pins or sewing needles, there is always certain amount of blood loss involved in every project. And yes, I really appreciate the fact that these are pretty safe to use. You can actually get them in plastic as well. Although I prefer the metal. And then yes, tape measure, you might need to measure some stuff as we need. I mean, we're not going to be getting anything advanced like sweaters, but we will be nothing like little soak for your Textual, for mobile or tablet or eReader or whatever, you might want to measure it. So yeah, that's pretty much it. And if you got all these things, then you're ready. Start. 4. Long-tail Cast-on: Ok, so now once you've got everything that you need to start to do this course, it's not a lot. Let's dive into the actual classes. The first thing that I'm going to show you is to help start you knitting. So how to cast on, so put stitches on your needle to start your knitting. And the way I'm going to teach you, I'm gonna teach you the most common, the most commonly used cast on that. We'll see you through 99% of the time. It's called the long tail cast on. So so a long tail cast on, Got it, got its name. Because unlike other customs, you will need to leave a tail to cast on stitches. Because with long tail cast on, you pull the yarn from both sides. So you pull the yarn from the tail and you pull the yarn from the main working yarn. So your ball of yarn. So how long a tail, it depends on how many stitches you want to cast on. And if you're casting on just a few stitches, then you could just sort of, you know, gauge it by eye. But if you're starting a sweater for example, and you have to cast on like a 150 stitches, then it's very frustrating if you get to like a 130 and suddenly you run out of your tail. So there's a very simple strategy to find out how long the tail you need to leave. So what you do, you basically take your yarn knitting needle that you're going to be using. And you basically loosely wrap the yarn around the needle as many times as, as many stitches you want. Or you could do a shortcut. So if you want, say 20 switches, you can wrap your yarn, what, ten times 678910, and then double that yarn. And around here, you can start your long tail cast on. Now from the long tail cast on, you hold the yarn like this. So you wrap it around your thumb, you wrap it around your forefinger. And you basically hold the both ends with your, with your two fingers here. The yarn has to be sort of at the end, right where your nail starts. So not here, but here, right? And what you get is basically a triangle of yarn. And then basically you've got your, your tail and you're working yarn here. So you take the needle and you go under this strand between your thumb and your forefinger. You pull the air from the bottom, you pull the yarn. You pick this strand. At the front. You pick this one. And now you can see you've got a little loop around your thumb. So you pull it through that loop and youth are tighten it. So to do it again. Again, your triangle, you go under this strand, you pull it. You go under strand like this. Yet from top and scoop it like that. Then you do the same with this strand. And now you have a loop and you pull it through that loop. And you type in it like that. So try it again, right? So here, here. And through the loop and tightened. And the first time you delete, this renders two stitches. So you've caught, you cost onto stitches. Now moving forward is a little bit easier because you've got your needle kinda docked here. So you pull the needle here. Basically you don't have to do the first bit with strong leaders basically pull it and pick this strand as you would. Pick that strand, pull it through the loop. Titan, you've got the third stage. So it's a little bit complicated to begin with. But you get, you will get it very quickly because It's a relatively straightforward process. And obviously if you if you need to cost on like a 100 and odd stitches, you will be a pro after you've crossed hung the stitches. Right. So when we go 246810, it's cost on another 1012345678910. We go, you've got ten stitches, sorry, 20 stitches. Cost on. And you've got this kind of nice edge that you can already see. And this is a very good sound bases for any knitting, whether continental or English. Now, some people might find, especially if they are new knitters, that when they cast on and when they knit in general, because they try not to lose a stage and they are very, very careful about everything. They find that their, their cost on is very, very tight. So when they, once they've done it, the cast on the kind of really can't get the needle in and do the actual stage. And there's a very easy thing that you could do to remedy that. So basically now undo this cast on. What you do is you just take two needles together. So basically you pick two needles and you basically repeat the same procedure. So you've got two needles, you pick up this strand. You pick up that one obviously is going to be a little bit more complicated with two needles, but we go same idea, right? That's number three. Number four, number 56. So you've got six stitches here. And you could tighten them as much as you want. You can make them really tied because there is no problem with, with how fight they will become, because you just pull one needle out and then look, you've got these lovely even state such as they are the same height, but they are very loose. So if you want to start knitting from here, it's going to be very easy for you. So that's the trick. The only thing you have to remember that when you actually gauge the length of the tail by wrapping the yarn, if you're planning on using two needles together, then make sure you wrap the yarn around the two needles because obviously the tail is going to be completely different. 5. How to Hold Your Yarn: So as you can see, I have cost on number of stitches. I think it's about 14. So we have a little sort of route to practice on. And the first thing that you will notice when you see people doing continental knitting is that they hold needles differently. So with English style knitting, the yarn is held in the right hand and then basically the yarn is then wrapped around the right-hand needle. So the left-hand bingo, whereas its continental knitting is kind of other way around. So you hold your left hand needle, will your hand. Where that's why you're basically you're working. Cities are. And then you hold the yarn in that same hand. It's kind of intuitive for people who crochet. I told. I mean, I'm not a great crochet, but yeah, it's kind of a little bit like crocheting. So there are very many different ways to hold yon continental knitting. And if you go on YouTube and have a look, you probably will find like 20 different videos. So some people just kind of weave the yarn between their fingers. Some people wrap the yarn around the pinky and I do the simplest thing ever, Basically, I hold the yarn basically. So you hold the needle, the left-hand. I hold the working yarn with my index finger is a quite tightly, not very tightly because then you'll have very tight stitches. But basically with your index finger, the rest of the yarn I hold with the remaining fingers. So I basically with my with my kind of wasn't ring finger and Pinky. So like that, you hold the needle and you hold the yarn. So that really works for me and you are able to control the tension will VR and quite easily with those remaining fingers. If you really having problems with your knitting being very, very loose, you can do this. And you can just wrap the yarn twice around your finger. But the simplest way that I suggest you try is basically you cost on the stitches. You hold the knitting needle. The yarn goes basically like this. So it goes around your index finger and then through the remaining fingers and onto the yarn ball like this. And you're ready to knit. 6. Knit Stitch Continental Style: Okay, so now you know how to hold the yarn in your left hand. As you have noticed, probably. I've already needed two rows of Gothic stage so that it's easier for you to show. Easier for me to show you how you do the knit stage in continental knitting. So ie, you can knitting the first digit is quite easy, but I, I do tends to sort of slip the first stitch for a neater edge. So the first stitch, and then we are going to knit this stage continental way. So as you can see, I'm holding the needles like this. And the yarn that I'm holding with my hand and wrapped around my forefinger is at the back. So you've got your knitting needles here. The yarn is at the back, and that is always the case for an ID stage, whether it be continental style or English style. The yarn is at the back for the next stage. And the way you knit continental style, you go into the stage from here. So not like this, but like this. Alright? So you isolate this stage and you put your needle into the stitch like that. So you've got them. And then you pick this yarn because this one is quite tight, because you're holding it with your forefinger. You pick this yarn and you pull it through that stage, and then you release it. And here you've got your knitted stage using stitches. Ok. Now try again. So we're going to knit this stage. So holding the yarn, like I told you, with the yarn at the back, I put my right-hand needle tip into that stitch like this. So we would call them like that. Yeah. So I dive right into that stage and then I pick they strummed. And I pull it through the stitch and then release it again through this stitch picket. So you've got to needle knitting needles through it. Then you pick this strand from the back and you pull it through that stage, and then you release it. Try again and release it and again into the stage. Pick the yarn, pull it, and release it. And you will notice that the yarn here is quite tight. But when you pull it and you pull the stitch, pull the yarn through the stage, you are pulling that yarn is being pulled from from the, the yarn ball. So it's not that tight. You're not holding it that tight so that you can't pull the yarn. So again, into the stage. Pick up this yarn, we pull it through and can you see it? As I'm pulling it, the yarn gets released. And now you can tighten it. Whoops. The next one and the next one. And the next one. So those fingers here, they are controlling the flow of the yarn so it's not too loose, so that, that strand is always quite tight. But it's not too tight. So you end up with very, very tight stitches. Right? And to finish the row, here we go. We have knitted a whole row of stitches, continental style. Now, you may or may not know, knitting IS about knitting and piling. But just knowing the knitting stitch allows you to knit stuff. So when you just do knit stitch, so if I turn this walk around and yarn at the back and start again, obviously, I usually don't let the first stage, but if you were to knit the first ditch, very simple like this. Go easier, faster generated. So if you do knit stitch on both sides of the work, so what we refer to as the right side and the wrong side. We end up with what is called a got a stage. And we will be using that Goths ditch very shortly to create, to knit a washcloth. Because there are uses forgotten stitch. And it would be a good opportunity for you to practice. So that's what a goddess stage looks like on very, very chunky yarn. 7. How to Bind Off Your Work: I have now knitted a short sample of garter stitch. It's 13 stitches wide and a couple of rows high. But that will be enough to show you how you, what you do when you finish knitting. And he wanted to end the knitting and basically bind off. So the term we use is binding off, which is most common in the US. Or you can hear the term cost of So you cast on and then you cast off or you bind off. Now, the bind off that I'm going to show you is the most common one. As with customers, there are loads of different types and different methods of binding off. But the one I'm going to show you is the easiest and the most commonly used. And again, it will see you through ninety-nine point nine percent of all of your knitting situations. So let's have a look. So you've got this row and you, this is your last row. So as you need if you're last role or as you earlier, last row, you bind off as you go. So I'll let the first stitch, the mounted, the second stitch. And now you have two stitches on your right-hand needle. And what you do is you, with your left-hand needle, you grab that first stage. And you oops, sorry. Try again. You grab that first stitch and you slip it over the second one. And you end up with one stage unit, the next stitch. And you've got two stitches again. So you grab the first one with your left hand needle and you slip it over the second one. And again you've got one stitch. The next one. Slip it over. Again, knit two stitches on your right-hand needle. With your left hand needle, you go in this way. You pick it up and you pass it over. The second one. It helps if you knitting is quite loose. If you're a very, very technical, you might find it a little more difficult. But you basically get your Neil Under the first stage and you can stretch it a little and you just stretch it and then you pull it over. If you find it easier. You can use your fingers to help you so you can maybe hold this stitch as you Passover. But it's not a difficult maneuver to make. And you basically just need your row as you would, whether it's parallel stage or knit stitch or combined different parallels, such as together. And all you do is you basically just slip the first stitch over the second stitch on the right-hand needle. You go. He's the last one. And as you can see, you have a nice neat edge where you've crossed off. So when you look at the cost on edge, it's nice and neat. And when you look at the cost of edge is also a nice, neat. And essentially what you do, you just snip, snip the yarn off. And you thread it through the last loop. And you tend to live a longer piece of yarn because then either you can use it for stitching it. If you've got several pieces of knitting stitch together, or you just need a bit of tail to kind of wind the ad. The ad edges in with the sort of the tail and you would weave this one and you will leave this one to have your finished work nice and neat. So that's the bind off. 8. Project 1 - Knitting Your Washcloth: Hi, welcome back. So now you have seen how to hold the yarn, how to hold the needles, how the cost on how to knit continental style and how to bind off. So I think that you are ready to pull it altogether for our fast project, a first project is going to be this tiny little washcloth. When she will do in Goddess stage that is knitting one side, turning around and knitting again. So you're going to be practicing the stage as well as the cost on the bind off. And we're gonna use crochet hook for this tiny little chain to hang the washcloth by. So let's dive in. Ok, so the practice, our newly acquired skill of knitting guard the stage. We're going to knit a simple washcloth. And now I've picked this particular yarn because it's chunky and it will be easy for me to show you basically exactly what I'm doing with an needles. If you are going to use this little project as a washcloth, and I would suggest that you pick a cotton type yarn. So something that is nice to actually use as a washcloth that will absorb water, that will kind of dry nicely. It's easy to wash. So probably not baby chunky acrylic yarn. But for the demonstration purposes, I think this is going to be perfect. So the previous, in the previous video, I needed some garden stage using this sort of super chunky yarn on size six needles. This is what it looks like. Normally. How do you decide the size of the projects or how many stitches you need? Essentially, what you need to do is you need a swatch. So basically what you would do is you would cast on say, maybe 40 stitches than you needed needed for a certain amount of certain length. And then you kind of measure it and see how many stitches per say, ten centimeters. And then you calculate the OLI once my swatch to be 20 centimeters wide. So I need so and so and so many stitches. Now we're not gonna do that because it's a little bit fiddly. Because this is just a sort of a demo. And you don't really need to have the washcloth. Particular, particular size. I mean, if it's a little bit bigger, a little bit smaller, it's not the end of the world. So for this demonstration, I'm going to cast on 30 stitches and basically just go with the flow. Okay, so after some trouble and some problems, not known surmountable, I managed to find the end of the yarn. So now let's cast on 30 stitches so you can skip that bit or you can practice along with me. So this is thinner yarn. So with them in terms of weight, because we talk about thickness of yarn in terms of weight. So this is chunky yarn as opposed to super chunky that we had before. So I went down from needle style size six, I went down to 4.5, which are very common sizes. So if you are planning on doing your own kind of thing, knitting along, hopefully with more suitable yarn like cotton. I suggest you go for something like 4.54 because if you go for smaller needles, everything going to be tiny and it's gonna be difficult if you are trying to learn that it's going to be a bit difficult to actually see what is going on where you split the yarn or when you drop the stage. Whereas if you go for really, really bulky yarn and huge knitting needles, like I've seen in some YouTube videos. People go for like ridiculously huge knitting needles like size 20. Then it's very difficult to actually learn because in practice, unless you're knitting soft furnishings and blankets, you're not gonna be using meetings of this size. So my my advice is to just use standard, most standard, most commonly used sizes. So for 4.55, maybe six, not not bigger and probably not smaller. So anyway, here's my custom, 12345. You see 78910 and I will proceed to cast on 30 stitches. You can cast along with me or you can pause the video and come back to me. When you've cast on however many stitches you need. You could try with 30. You could try with 4030 is going to render a relatively small project, but this is basically just for for us to practice. So 46810121416, 18-19, 20 I've gotten to go 12345678910 A bit of yarn left, which is good. You should always have a bit of tail left. And let's start knitting. So I always tend to slip the first stage without working it through. It does kind of produce a cleaner, nicer edge. And it's something I kind of just always do, but you don't have to. You can get the first stage if you want. So let's knit. So whoops. That's the first one. So like I told you before, we dive into the stage from the bottom, like that, we pick the yarn and pull through. So again into the stage, pick the yarn, pull through and release. And I will just continue and you can follow along. Now I suspect I can get some royalty free music to go with. This part. Starts basically straightforward Nutella. Okay, so now we've noted the first row. We tend to work around. So again, we've called the working yarn and stitches in our left hand. Again, I would slip the first stitch and continue working knit stitches throughout. You may find that your first row is rather tight. But it tends to kind of even out as you need to long unless you have a problem with tension, which means that, in which case you probably should just practice to release the yarn kind of in a more smooth wave. Three. And as you can see, you are beginning to have it gotta stage. And God, the stage is relatively simple to do. You just need knit stitches. You work both sides exactly the same. And they produce a reversible state, which means that unlike stocking stage, which we're gonna be doing a bit later, both sides of your work look exactly the same, which is quite for a washcloth. 9. Project 1 - Binding Off: So now we have knitted quite a bit in multistage. So basically doing knit stitch, both on the right side, in the wrong side. So it is, you can see both sides look exactly the same. So it is a reversible stage. Now, know exactly straight what you would do with any project which we're not gonna deal with this one because it's a bit of a Pfaff. But normally what you would do is blocking, so you would watch it carefully using mild detergent and fabric software and delicately draw it and remove all the water from it. And then you would shape it into a proper kind of maybe rectangular shape. Or if it's a sweater than obviously the shape will be more complicated than that and you would pin it. There are blocking maps made of styrofoam and then you would pin it so it stays in place and it's kind of fit to size. So it's it's the right size that you want it to be. And then he would leave it to dry in that position. And then that would kind of make make the work more regular, more presentable. And that's good practice for all of your knitting in terms of garments. But with this particular thing, we're not going to be doing that because it's just a simple, simple project to get unity. So we've got this size, which basically you've come with custom 30 stitches and we've basically live knitted for as long as I thought was suitable. So decent size cloth, like I said, if it was made of cotton, we could use it as a washcloth. It's not made of cotton, is made of acrylic, so we could use it for grubbing hot pants and pops off the stove in the kitchen. But anyway, so we've got this and now how do we end it? So, well, you need to do is to cast off. So in a way you are casting on to start and you would cost off to end. The other term for casting of his binding off. So you would bind off. So I'm going to show you the simplest bind off that again, just like long tail cast on this bind off is used like 99% of the time. And it's very simple. So essentially what you do is I'm going to knit the first dish you can though I I kind of slipped the persona of I'm gonna slip. Its mean. You get used to something. It's like second nature, like sleeping the first stage. While you could knit the first stage, you could slip the first stitch bismuth and you went to the next stage. And now we've got two stitches on your right hand needle. And what you do is you put your needle inside the first stage. So under the first stage like this. And you pass it over the other stage. So you had two stitches and now you've got one. And you continue like that. So you knit the next stage. Here we go. You've got two stitches on your right hand needle. Again, you ignore the first one and you put your needle in under the second one and you just slip it over. Again. We knit the next one. We've got two stitches. You insert your needle into the second stage or the first one actually, depending how you look at it. And then you just pass this stage over, over the first one. And you continue in this manner throughout the whole. So you knit, you've got two stitches and you just slip it over. Can knit two stitches. You get this one and you flip it over that one and you tied to it. So basically what you do, you just do the same throughout the whole row. You have to be careful to kind of because once you've slipped this stage, then you've got this certainly Y2 titanate. Don't tighten it too much. Because if you make it very, very tight and obviously that last row will be, will be kind of tighter than the rest of the work which you don't want. So try to keep things relatively loose. Sometimes this does happen. You will have to practice it obviously. But it's really not that, not that difficult. It's what you get when you go for the cheapest yarn available. But then again, if you're learning and you're just practicing them, really cheapest yarn available is the best thing you could do. Because it is very forgiving. I mean, with that kind of yarn, you can unpick it and knit something and then you rip it back and let something again. And it's kind of, it never looks great because it's fairly cheap yarn. But it, it really is able to withstand a lot of unpicking and, and whereas stuff like mohair or Kashmir and will not do that bus with Mohammed. You really don't know what you're doing because it's so fluffy that you hardly can see what your own stitches look like. Okay. Now, so that's that's the end of our bind off. And as you can see, it produces this lovely, neat edge of this lead would be even lovelier if it wasn't for these things. So it's got this lovely, neat edge. So you've got a nice customer with a neat edge. Nice cast off with an edge. It's not it's a big stretch is not super stretchy. So for projects that require very stretchy customs are very stretchy cast-off than there are different techniques, but this one will see you through from most, most of you are kind of basic knitting needs. So what you would normally do is you would just snip this yarn and just thread through that loop, tighten it. And we even the ends and that would be the end. But since we are planning on making a chain in loop, we're not going to cut this yarn for now. 10. Project 1 - Chaining on a Loop: Okay, so we have now done the bind off. So we've got a nice kind of peace of God hostage, knitting. And, and very simple. But if you've just started dating and you've never held needle knitting needles in your hand? Well, I think that's that's a nice little project to start off and then you can build upon that. So like I said, you end up with one stage and you normally would just SNP a yard of threaded through this loop, titanate, and then weave in the ends. But since we wanted to have a little loop to hang the wash cloth on, and this is where the crochet hook comes in. I'm using crochet hook in the same sizes, the knitting needles, which is good practice, but if you have something relatively close like for rather than 4.5, so-called. Okay, so we're going to chain, this is obviously outside the purview of nothingness is crocheting and I'm not an expert in crocheting, but this is like the most basic crocheting. So you've got your crochet hook, you inserted it into that loop that we've got the last stage after a week, after the bind off. And you just grab this yarn like that. And you pull it through that loop. And you end up with another loop. So you pull one, grab the yarn, pull it through the loop, another loop, and so on and so forth. And what you end up with is the chain, which actually looks very much like the actual bind off. And you chain it for however long you want. And then you pretty much just go back into, oops, see, I did tell you are not very good at crocheting. So if that last stitch, pull it out. Literally two loops. And now, now you can SNP, they aren't off threaded through the loop. And using the tapestry needle that I introduced to you. In one of the earlier classes. You can just faster than it. Say you want to go. So we've got a tiny bit loop to hang the wasp close by. 11. Project 1 - Weaving in the Ends: Now the last thing that you need to do when you finish knitting, and I've already done this end is you need to do something with this yarn. So you will have a tail hanging from the bit that you left. When you are costing on the long tail cast on which you should, you should leave a bit of tail just to finish it off. And then this end which I've already done, you will have, you will stick the yarn often you will have a chunk of yarn that you don't know what to do with. So standard products practice, good practice is to weave in the ends. And to be honest, there are so many different ways of weaving the ends. You can just weave it along the edge, which is what I've done with the end of the loop. You can weave and along the vertical edge. Or you could do it the way I am going to do it, which I tend to do always. The thing is, the point of that is that you don't make a huge sticky out t naught. That will look horrible. But you do have to secure that, that yarn end. And you will have, you know, with, with knitting like this, you'll have two of them. But if you're like knitting stripes, you changing colors or whatever, you're going to have loads of those. And, you know, you need to secure them somehow so that they don't unwind. So you don't end up having you knitting kind of coming apart. But also you don't want them to be hugely visible. So what I tend to do, and it's kinda nice because we are on the garden stage, which you know, you have this kind of, you can see those bumps in a kind of pattern. Now, you will see that once we've learned how to do paddling and we've learned how to just stocking stage, which is very, very common stitch to use. More common and garden stage, the wrong side of the stocking stage will look like this. So the right side will be, we'll have a completely different appearance, but the wrong side will look like God stage. So this is a nice way of doing it on Garvey stage. And this is the way you would do it on stocking stage on the wrong side. So basically what I do is I just thread the yarn through those bumps right on the edge. A couple of times. And no, I mean, there are people who actually follow very intricate patterns of how to do it. I found that it works for me, especially if it's like at the very edge, so it's not very visible. And you do it a couple of times. You might even want to go one up and kind of go backwards. But because it's kind of the bumpy side of Gothic stage or bumpy side of stock in that stage, you don't really see much. And it is sufficiently securely weaved in that when you trim it, you don't see it. And you don't see it on the right side. Although the right side and the wrong side is exactly the same with God stage. And it's quite secure. It's not going to come apart. So not very complicated, but necessary. Also a bit of a pain if you've got loads of them to even but yeah, not much to it. So yeah, we've got a very fast gotta stage washcloth. I completed one and it looks relatively close to this one. Then congratulations, you have completed your first letting project and onwards to more exciting things. Next time, we're going to be looking at Pauling. 12. Purl Stitch Continental Style: Welcome back. I hope you enjoyed making your washcloth and I hope you're ready for new challenges. Now, I believe that continental lighting is quite easy to master. This is the way I learned to Nate from very, very, very beginning from scratch. And I didn't find it particularly difficult. But when I look online and I look at comments and the videos of people trying to learn continental dating. I come across comments saying that knitting continental style is not too bad, but Pauling is quite difficult. So in the next video, I'm going to show you my method of Perlin continental style. I have watched loads of videos on YouTube and elsewhere, and it seems that nobody parallels the way I do, but it really works for me. And I have looked at other methods of Perlin continental style that people have different methods. Mine actually works for me and it also I think is quite good because it's very economical of movement. So when I teach you the continental hurling, and then we move to combining continental Pauling and knitting in, in, in a rib stage. You will see why this, the way I do it, it seems natural to me because when you have to switch between continental knitting and continental piling in something like a room stage or as seeds ditch. The fact that it's so smooth really, really makes a difference. So let's dive into the continental parallel stitch and I hope you find it not too difficult. But it's worth, worth trying to master it because it will see you through and it's a really, really nice way to parallel. And it will make your polling and you're knitting much faster. So let's start and continental planning. Okay, so onto the pearl stage. Now, as you can see, I've cast on 14 stitches and I've worked God, a stage for a couple of rows, so just knit stitches backwards and forwards. And now we're ready to have a look at what pearls touches look like. Now, it's easy for me to show you. When I slip the first stitch and show you basically in a sort of more in the middle of the row. At least I find it easier to show it that way. And then I'll show you the first stage if you want to pilot. So if you remember, you probably will remember since you've already completed the project. But so we holding the needle with the stitches in our left hand, we're holding the yarn in our left hand. Basically, our index finger is holding the yarn and ensuring the tension. The rest of the yard is being held with your remaining fingers. And that's how you control the tension. And if you remember with knitting, knit stitches, the yarn was always at the back. And you would get into the stitch like this. Now with Pauling, it's different because with Pauling always the yarn is at the front. So rather than having it here, you have it at the front. And the way I see it is imagine that, well, we're going to Pell the stitch. This one. We, so that stage, the first one. So we put the yarn at the front. And now when you look at it, it's almost like having two parallel lines. One line is the yarn laying across. This didn't knitting needle. And the other line parallel to it is the stitch that we're going to need. And we're going to use this needle to go underneath those two lines. So we go underneath those two lines and into that stage. So if you forget about yarn, you go into the stitch that way. So right? No, that way, like with knitting. But that way. But you do it with the yarn in the front. So you're knitting needle goes under the yonder isn't the front, and then into the stage. So when you look at that needle, it's got two strands of yarn. Forget about the Stage. Two strands of yarn together. One is the yarn, the working yarn, and one is the yarn that forms the stage. And now you pick the yarn that is stretch there like that, and pull through those both loops like that. Granted, it's not the most simple of stitches. Knitting, knit stitch is simpler. But when you think about it, you actually, once you get your head around that it's actually not that difficult. So we've got two stitches here. Forget about those. We want to pile this stage. The yarn goes to the front. And if you forget about these stitches and forget about all the other stitches apart from the one that we're piling, you have two strands of yarn that is parallel. One is the yarn that we just put forward and the other yarn is pop forms the stitch. Now we go into this stitch like that. The yarn is in the front and we go into the stage. Like this. The exact opposite way to what we would do if we knitted. And now we just pick this yarn is stretched by our forefinger. And we use that yarn and pull through both of those and tighten it. Again. Forget about those stitches. We only look about, look at this one. This is the stitch we're going to parallel. This is the yarn that we brought forward. The knitting needle goes under that yarn and into the stage. Now it's got both. And then it picks the yarn at the back and pulls through the stage. Try again. You put the yarn at the front. Your needle goes under that yarn into this stitch that way, and then it picks that yarn and pulls it through. Now, it is not the most easy of maneuvers, but it's perfectly doable. And actually, once you get the hang of ethics to it incredibly fast and I can, I will show you why it is so incredibly important. When you, when you switch between knit and pulse stitches in English style knitting, it's relatively slow going with this system. It is so fast because you basically just go like that. So again, yarn is always at the front, and that's the rule for all netting. So whenever you do a knit stitch, the yarn is at the back. Whatever you do, a pulse that yarn is at the front of the yarn is at the front. You entered the stage like this. So exactly opposite direction from what you did with knitting. You pick the yarn and I hold it with my index finger so that I know that it doesn't slip because it is quite, quite, quite tricky. And I just pull it like that and release the stage. Yeah. Now I've seen other people go into the stage with the yarn in the front and then they just rap yarn like that. So rather than picking it like I do like this, they use their finger to wrap the yarn. Sorry, the wrap the yarn like that. And then they pull it, it is exactly the same effect. It, it's just a slightly different way of doing, but it produces exactly the same effect. But I think the way I do it is better because once you've mastered it, it's incredibly fast. So again, you go in yarn in the front, pick-up, pero, pero. And here you've got a beginning of a token stage or stuck in that stage. Because what happens when you combine knitting and piling is you end up with a stock in Stage. And That is, you surely will recognize this is the most common stitch used in knitting, used very widely in knitting toys and knitting garments. I will knit another row. Because what happens is you, you've just paralleled a row. So now you want to knit a row. Okay, so I have just, I have just knitted a row to go back to the Polaroid. So let's do some piling. Again. You can do it in slow mo. But it would be if you practice the bid because this can be quite tricky. So what happens with the first H If you don't slip the first stitch like I do. And you want to parallel the first stage. Again. You just put the yarn at the front. The yarn is at the front. You go into the stitch the way I showed you, and then you pick the yarn and pull it through. So the first stage is not that complicated, but it, I find it easier to show it first in the middle of the row and then go to the first stage. So again, we're in the middle of the row and we just, but they are on the front. Get the knitting needle through. Haha, pick the yarn, pull it. And you can hold it with your index finger so it doesn't slide off. There's, you know, it's perfectly fine to do so. Again, yarn in the front, you go under the yarn and enter the stage. You pick the strand and you pull it through. Again. Yard in the front, goes through the, through the stage, pick the yarn, and then you've got to pull it through and release the stage. Again. This is why they call continental knitting picking. Because both within its stitch and with the perl stage, you pick the yarn. Like that is this picking notion. You scoop it and you pick it. Whereas with English style knitting, with the yarn in your right-hand, you do, do a lot of that kind of movements. So you wrap the yarn and you wrap the yarn and you wrap it and it's like it to me, it seems a lot of work. Whereas with continental knitting and paralleling. And there is relatively little movement. So again, go into the stitch, yarn in the front, pick it up, pull down the front, go into stage. Pick they are not again, pull. And the last stitch, again. Whoops. And pull. And when you turn around, you can see that it no longer looks like God stitch. You gotta go off the stage at the very bottom. And now you can see something that I'm sure you recognize from lots of network and sweaters and toys and you name it this kind of flat stage with those kind of v-shaped pattern. Very familiar to anybody's ever encountered knitting. And that is called stocking stage or stuck in upstage. And the difference between the garden stage and this stage is that Stuxnet got two sides, so that the right side. So if you need a sweater, that's the side that the public is going to view, and that is the inside of your sweater, that's the wrong side. And if you look at the wrong side, it looks very much like a regular Gulf stage. That's why when I showed you how to weave ends, it makes sense because you would weave the ends on the wrong side into those bumps and lumps of God stage, or the wrong side of Stuxnet stage. Whereas in the front you've got this nice uniform kind of stage. This document stage is usually used for garments that are sewn together like sweaters and stuff. And one reason is because it produces the right side and the wrong side. And the other reason is you can't see it here because we only had like a couple of rows. But if you were to knit a large piece of knitting in stocky net stage, which we will, I mean not large, but we will practice with our next project. You will see that it always kind of the ends always role. So it always kind of rolls up. And it's not a problem if it's a front and back of a sweater because those sides are going to get stitched together so it makes it a problem. But if you wanted to make a scarf like that, that it wouldn't be very practical unless you folded it into and then stitched it and along the side, which I did do regularly for many of the scars because I do like just talking at stage on on, on scarves. But you do have to either give it an edge of like four stitches each side in garden stage so that it lies flat or you need to stitch it up and then it doesn't matter that it rolls up. And obviously it doesn't matter is wrong side because the wrong side is on the inside. Yeah. Once you've mastered knitting and Pauling, and that's pretty much 80% of your knitting work and knitting learning gun, because once you're comfortable knitting and paralleling the rest of it, all the additional stuff that you learn, increasing, decreasing, you know, different patterns. They are all kind of either a variation or use Nitin parallel stitches. Or the actual stitches that you produce are relatively similar in terms of what you would use with your knitting needles and not too difficult to grasp like knit front and back for example, Once you know, nate doing something like knits front-end bike, which is an increase, is not that difficult. So what you just need to do is to practice the knit stitch and practice the pearl stage. And you're on your way. 13. Rib Stitch - Combining Knitting and Purling: So learning the Pele's stitch might have felt a little difficult. But if you questioned why on earth are you still learning continental knitting rather than checking it in and going for English knitting? Well, I think that I'll be able to demonstrate why it is the fastest way to knit when you actually start combining knitting and Pauling's stitches. And there are many ways in which you combine knitting and pulse NET in Perl stitches. You could do like a masstige or a seed stitch, which is essentially the same stage, which is a pattern that basically is created by swapping between knitting and pelts, knit and parallel stitches in a kind of like a checkered pattern. So you end up with this kind of nice textured pattern. But another use for when you switch between knit and Pearl stitches is the rib stitch. And the rib stitch is very common stitch that you will see in sweaters at the end of the sweaters and your calves, you know the bit that's kind of like you've got those vertical lines and it's a bit stretchy. And it's usually used for cuffs and bottom of the sweater and often around the color as well. So you are definitely familiar with what it looks like. But what it actually is is, well, there are two versions. There's a single and double rib, rib stage and the most common one is it doubles. So basically that's two knit stitches, two procedures to knit stitches, to Pearl stitches. And basically you just need along like that and you create, you end up with this tectonic textured pattern that kind of shrinks a little. I mean, it pulls together a little. So let me just show you. So you start off with two knit stitches. As neat as you're familiar. Knit again. And then you will have to pulse stitches. And switching between knit and parallel stitches in continental netting is so incredibly quick. Because with knit stitch, if you remember, the yarn is in the back and in Perl stitch the yarn is in the front. So essentially what you do, you just bring the yarn to the front so you don't even have to use your finger. Basically, you use your right handed needle to just do this. Knit, parallel, knit, knit, perl. It's so quick. So we've needed to stitches. Now we go PO Yarn at the front. We go that way. Pick the yarn, pull it through pearls stage. Again. Yarn at the front. Into the stage. Pick. Perl can hold it, hold the stage with your index finger so it doesn't go anywhere. And you can see now you've got two stitches, the unlimited and you can see there are kind of flat. And then to cities that have been puzzled and you can see those bumps, pearl bumps. So we're back to knitting the yarns at the back. We go into the stitch this way and it's neat way. Knit, knit. Now from late, we go to parallel, parallel, parallel. Back to knit, knit, knit, young front, paralleled, Po, yarn at the back net. We go first row of double red stage turnaround. And you don't have to remember what was Wab because when you look at it, remember those parallel bumps. Knit this flat parallel bumps. That's the parallel stage. So you turn it around. You look at the wrong side. And if you look exactly at that stage, bump, bump, bump, bump, see. You've got the first two stitches are kind of those pro bumps. The next two stitches are DVs. The problems need to be paralleled and the mid-70s needs to be knitted. So yarn the front, go into this stage like we always do for parallel. Pick the yarn, pull through. Again the pearl. Done two problems. Now we're back to knit. Knit, knit. Carl parallel. Who knit, knit, parallel. Parallel. Knit, knit parallel, parallel. So we've done the second row of ribs stage and you're beginning to see the pattern. See the ribs are beginning to form. You've got the parallel bumps here. Knit section, Paul section, midsection, perfection. So new row, first stitches. Knit. So unit the first one. The second one, bring the yarn forward, parallel. The third one. The fourth one. Knit. Knit, right? Yarn forward parallel. 5o. Yamaha quotes net. Net, sorry, I'm sitting on my yarn ball so doesn't help. Yarn front, perl. Perl Yan'an, back, late. Nate. Again. Look at the wrong side. Again. What we see bump, bump, parallel, parallel. So young the front, repel the first-stage yarn at the front. Pelle the next stage. And now yarn at the back. Knit, knit. Next we've got two perils. Yarn at the front, parallel parallel yarn at the back. Nate, Nate, yarn at the front. Perl, perl. Yarn at the back. Knit, knit, Yana, different parallel, parallel rib stitch is becoming more pronounced. The thing that you have to understand that the reason why it is so fast is one because you pick the yarn rather than the wrap the yarn. And secondly, because you can switch between knit and pearls stitches so quickly, because as you have seen, there was no movement like that there, you know, I didn't even move this finger. You know, I've noticed some people parallel continental and they kind of got this sort of way that they suppressed the yarn and then they pull the yarn up and then they suppressed the yarn. And I find that it's so easy because you just, you change the limits to perils have just needed to. You don't do anything. You just do this with your right hand. Knitting needle, parallel, net, net. You finger doesn't even move. So if you go pro 12. Now back from it. 12, again, pearl. Yarn forward, one to yon backwards. Knit, knit. Young forwards. Po po, yarn backwards. Nate, your finger, your index finger does not really move. I mean, I, I've seen that a lot of continental letters, they, they manipulate the yarn using the finger. But with this method which I've been using, which I had been taught, basically, that's what I've been using all my life. You just using the right-hand needle to pull the yarn forward, backward, forward, backward, forward, backward. And if you get into the rhythm of things where you basically just pick the picture yarn and Nate and pick the yarn init and pick the yarn in parallel. Pick the yarn in Perl. You, you are able to knit so incredibly fast because you're not slowed down by switching between knitting and piling. And it really comes into its own with a rib stage and also other stitches that require you to quickly switch between Nitin parallax, seed stage or masstige. So here we go. This is the beginning of Arab stage. I'm sure you recognize it. It's a very, very common stage. And we are going to use this stage. We're going to start off with this stage. When we knit our next project, which is a little Salk for our tech, whether I'm going to be doing it for a mobile phone. And so it's a small, little, small stripy sock. But you could make it bigger for a tablet or for an e-reader. But yeah, another little project for us to practice. Hope you enjoy it. 14. Mattress Stitch - Sewing Your Work Together: So when it comes to stitching yarn. So joining the pieces together, you could theoretically just kind of like an overlook style, but this wouldn't rendered the best result. So what the best way to actually knit things dwell. So things together is a stitch called the mattress stitch, which is relatively simple stage and it actually produces very, very good results. So in order to show you what that is, I have knitted this little sort of piece of stocking stitch nicking. And because it's stopping stitch that usually you're gonna end up sort of sewing together in sweaters and also in the little project that we're making now. So when you look at those two edges, the kind of role. So you try to find a straight kind of seem. So a straight line. A single row of stitches wouldn't go right at the very edge. But here, for example, you can see that this row, you can see this one continues uninterruptedly till the very end. And you find a similar row on the other edge, edge. So you want to be, you don't wanna go too far from the edge, but you don't want to get right on the edge. So for the sake of demonstration, say this, when you start, this row goes up uninterruptedly. So you take your tapestry needle and I'm going to use a contrasting yarn so that you can see what is happening. In normal circumstances, you would be using same color yarn obviously. And what happens is when you actually stretch there. When you stretch the work and you've got your kind of rows of these. When you stretch them, you can see that there are those little ladders so that there are strands of yarn that join the stage. So if I kind of put my knitting, sewing needle underneath them, so you are looking at those little ladders. So you start off and you decide which kind of road to follow. It's kind of important to follow the same kind of row. So you're stitching is straight. So for example, you go into here and you go and find. That little ladder. And you get your yarn that. And then you go to the other side. You go for the row that you are looking to. So, so this one, right? You stretch it and he, You've got a similar little ladder and you sell through it. So you come back to this side. So basically alternate. And again, you stretch the Arne and here you've got another little ladder. You go under that ladder. Tail gets. And then go here again. You stretch and you have to stay in the same row. So here is another little ladder. So Ego under it, back to the other side. And now the little ladder under it. Go back. Here we go. The next little ladder under it. And you continue like so, going from one end to the other. Try not to miss any. He will go another ladder that go back here, right here we go. The next one. You don't actually split the stage is split the yarn with your needle. You go up, you find those little, you find those little ladders, and you just go under it and you don't even have to tighten it. So when you've done certain section, you can then tighten it. And what you see is that you've joined this these two pieces. And even though we've used contrasting yarn, you pretty much can't see it. So you kind of continue like this in a loose manner and then you tighten it and then it just brings it nicely together. And it it almost produces a seamless stage. Too slow going, I admit. And you need to make sure that you get all of them and then you get them parallel. So if you stitching the first stage on the left side and you do the first stage on the right side. Otherwise the stitching becomes wonky and you finish, you will finish the one side and there will be a couple of stitches left on the other side. Might have what's written here. I shouldn't do it although all the way because it's a little bit boring to watch, but see what happens when you tighten. You essentially end up with almost a seamless stitch. So that's the mattress stage. Obviously when you have ended, finished and you just kind of, you know, secure the end and you weave the ends. And then you have your work stage in a nicely neat and seamless manner. So that's the mattress stitch for you. We will be using it to join the two ends of our mobile phone sock. And so, yeah, you will have an opportunity to practice, but it's a great stitch to know and also it's a staple just like long-tail cast all or a simple bind off mattress stage will see you through most of your knitting needs. 15. Project 2 - Casting On: Welcome back. So now it's the time has come to do our second project. And such a second project is a little more exciting than the first one. So our second project is this stripy, colorful Salk for your tech. So I needed it for my mobile phone, but you can do it bigger and do it for your e-reader or for your tablet or any other thing that you want to put in a sock. Now, this project is going to let you practice everything that we have learned so far. So in this project, you will start off with casting on. Then you will continue with a rib stitch that will let you alternate between net and pulse that just the way I showed you before. Then you go into a straight stocking stage. So basically knitting on one side and on the other. And then once you've got this whole thing, the right length, you will bind off in stage. I will show you how. And then you will fold it and you will stitch it along the sides using mattress stitch that I taught you in one of the previous videos. And at the very end, you weave in the ends. And that's yourself. I hope you enjoy the little Project and I hope you don't find it too difficult. And I hope that you have so far enjoy this course and feel empowered by the new skills that you have learned. So let's start our second project. I hope you enjoy it. Okay, so let's start our next project, which is a little SOC for your mobile phone. I'm going to be knitting format something from an old Motorola. Here is a little piece of knitting, the type done in stocking stitch. As you can see, it rolls up. Like I told you, it's the problem with the stocking stitch. So when you design a project like this, then you will need to know what size you need to knit. So you will need to decide how many stitches to cast on for the width. And you need to plan how long it's going to be. Well, I mean, you can kind of play it by ear, but it's a good practice to actually know what you're going to do. So what you do is you knit a swatch like this, a gauge swatch using the same knitting needles and the same yarn and the same stage that you are going to use for your project. In the perfect world, you should also wash it and block it before you measure it. But obviously we're not gonna do that because it's just a tiny little project. So you, you take your tape measure and you basically pick a bit somewhere in the middle. And then you, so when it's straight and you measure ten centimeters, and then you count the number of stitches. All those little leaves that go into one, into ten centimeters. So then if you know you want something that is the width of 20 centimeters, you just double that amount of stitches. And you'd do the same thing for the rows. So you kinda go and measure ten centimeters. And then you see how many rows make up ten centimeters. And then when you measure, say your phone and see what the measurements are and how big the project should be, then you kind of multiply it and you know how many you need, like, you know, like I said, 1620 centimeters, you know how many rows you need to know it and how many stitches you need to cast on for the width. Now, I've done all that. So I kind of know that for that not Motorola did. I'm going to be knitting. I need to cast on 20 stitches for the width of it. And then I'm going to be doing eight rows of rib stitch. And then I'm going to go into stripes. So I'm going to have pink and orange stripes. Each stripe will be six rows high, and I will get 11 OF those stripes. And then I'm going to finish with a rib stitch ending. There is also eight rows high. So when I fold it together, I can stitch it on both sides and it will make up a nice little Salk. So the first thing that I need to do is to cost on 20 stitches. So using this green yarn, I'm going to first measure how much tale I need. So 1234567891010 times to 20 around here. It's not exact science. I can start casting on my 20 stitches. So one renters to stitches, 345678910111213141516171819, 20. And we've got a little tail left. Brilliant. So now it call it cost on. Okay, so now that we've got. These stitches constant. We can start off with our rib stitch. And according to my plan, according to my little sort of pattern that I've worked out. We're gonna Nate eight rows of rib stitch. And this is a little gizmo that I did not include in the video about what you need for this course because you don't need it. But it's a really, really good thing to have. It's a row counter. So whenever you need to row and you turn, you just click this and and you keep count of what's happening. So I found that indispensible. You don't need it. You could just use a piece of paper or just count the rows in your head. But I found it very useful and it's readily available everywhere and it's not very expensive. So it's a good idea to have. If you remember, rib stage is basically two stitches of knit stitch and k stages of Pell stage, and that basically is the repeat. So let's start with the NIT. So we need to, we sell to we need to again and repel two. It's a little more difficult starting with the rib stage when you only have some cast on stitches. But it's perfectly Drupal. And once you've done the first two rows, it will become much easier. He is our first row. Here we go. That's the first row over IP stage. So now we turn around. That was first row, so that's the second one. So row two. And we can see that these are the knit stitches because they are flat. And then now we've got two problems. So we need to be parallel to T2, 22222. And we turn for this. Well, now you can see that you already can see the stage forming. So now I will continue in web search and I will come back to you when it's time to change colors. 16. Project 2 - Colour Change: Okay, so now I have a knitted eight rows of rib stitch, and I've slipped the yarn off already. But basically, what we need to do now is change yarn to pink and change our stitch two stocking stage. So there is a good way and a wrong way on the right way of doing it. But I'm doing it the wrong way because I find it more practical. So I'll basically just tied on the new yarn. Nothings, nothing complicated. And then using that new yarn, now, I am going to knit a row and then parallel arrow to do a stocking stage. So Nate, I dropped my yarn, had to unpick. So now some of the stitches are a bit wonky booked. Okay, so that's the row. And now we're going to do the parallel row. Since we're counting. That was the first row that we've just done, and now we're doing the second row. So that's OK. And now you can see a beginning of a stocking stitch. So I'm going to continue. So do six rows of the pink yarn and then I'm going to do six rows of the orange. And that will continue. So I will do 11 stripes of six rows each. And then, and with this rib stitch at the end, and I'll come back to you to bind off and stitch it together. So see you shortly. 17. Project 2 - Binding Off: Okay, so now I have knitted the whole length of the sulk. Looks a little bit like a sausage. But that's because as I've demonstrated earlier, stock instead do, does tend to roll up a lot. So you can see that the wrong side is here. It looks very much like God hostage. And then the right side is here and it looks very much different. So we have, I've knitted seven rows out of eight for the rib stitch. And now what I need to do is to bind off. And I'm going to bind off the way I showed you before. But because this is a rib stage, I'm gonna bind off in stage. So when you have a nit stage required, I will knit than bind off. And then we're Pearlstein. Stitch is required. I will Paul. And then bind off. So it's very simple. So unit you've got the first stitch unit. Again, you've got two stitches and as before, you pass the first one over the second one and you end up with one stage. Now you've got you've got pearl stitches. So you Paul stitch and you bind it, wind it off, and then you Paul the stage again. And then you find it. And now we're back to knit, knit loops. Again. So one way we knit and we bind it off. And then we net again. And then we bind it off again. So I'll just continue till the end of the row. And you can do it with me. Or you can just fast forward and skip to the next video. The last. Now, in normal circumstances, I would just the yarn and threaded through. But in this case, I'm going to use this yarn to then stitch the sock together. So I will just write the whole ball. And then I can choose however long yarn I need for stitching, which is going to be covered in the next video. 18. Project 2 - Completing the Project: So I have given myself a length of yarn so that I can stitch the sides of the sulk. But before we do that, we need to secure these bits of yarn for from when we were changing colors. Now, we, if you remember, we just tied the yarn on. Since it doesn't really matter if there is a not because it's all going to be on the inside, but to be on the safe side, I would just try to write it once more and just fascinate securely. And then we can just trim it. So it's not in the way. So I'll just go ahead and do that. Obviously, if you were knitting a, say God is Fitch scarf with stripy changing colors, you would end up, well, you probably would be changing the color slightly differently. You do it properly. Not just tying another, not. But you would have to weave in all of those ends. So with a scarf, that's quite a job. I mean, I probably am not alone among knitters to say that stitching things together and weaving and is not the most favorite part of knitting. Same as blocking. Nobody, I've never heard of anyone who actually enjoys blocking their their netting. It's the actual knitting that people find pleasurable. But it has to be done. If you want to have a good, proper, you know, good effect. And if you want your knitting to be well done, then all of these things need to be sorted. Eaten though. It's not the nicest of jobs. So terrible, but it is a bit, it's a bit boring, especially if you imagine if you have a huge long scar and stripy, and then you have to deal with every single stripe separately. Okay, I'm almost done. Which is to say just to be on the safe side, I really don't need to do it because these are going to be on the inside. They're not likely to come apart. But it's always better, safe than sorry. Because you've put so much work into knitting this. You don't really want it to come apart. So now on the one end, I've got this very long yarn, which I will use to stitch things together. Before I can do that, speaking of weaving and ends, the tale that we started off with that needs to be woven in. And so I'm going to do that first. And with this, in this case, I'm just going to loosely kind of weave it along the vertical edge. Just so that eight is secure and doesn't, doesn't come off easily. Alright, I can trim that. All right. And now the idea is that we fold it like this and we stitch it along the sides. So we're going to use mattress stitch. And normally you would use the yarn in the same color as the knitting, but obviously this is a colored knit color. Fascinating scientists gonna stick with green yarn that we use for ribbing. But it's going to be fine because as you have seen when I showed it to you, it really doesn't show even when I use contrasting yarn, you couldn't really see it. So essentially, like I showed you, you need to sort of find a row of stitches that you're going to stitch together. I normally wouldn't go for just the very, very edge H. I mean, if if if to consistently straight stitch like this one, you can stitch along them along this line. But sometimes be careful, you know, if if you've got like a increases, decreases, I mean, sometimes the first the first row of stitches, It's quite uneven. So you might even, maybe better if you moved one stage in into the knitting and basically stitched there. But then obviously be aware that obviously if you, if you take in stitch here and stitch them, their whole work will be a bit narrower, a bit tighter than you had originally planned. So I'm going to go under those Pell bumps. So since we're not doing we're not stitching. The GAR tested a stocking stage. We are looking here not at those ladders that I was talking to you, but we kind of go for the parallel bombs since they're quite easily noticeable. And we basically do it exactly like we did before. So you go through under one bomb on one side and then you go under the other bump on the other side. And you stitch it quite loosely because you're gonna be fastening it, pulling it together later. And you go like that stitch after stage. And basically joining the two sides and try to do it evenly so the two rib stitch ends kind of match ups. So this one, this one, the last one. So we can fast and we can pull it now and make it tight. And see the car in a cytosine. And now we're moving into the stocking stage territory. So again, you can follow this stitch fro. The very edge. Can follow this one. It's just, it's important to kind of pick those ladders in the same row. Because if you kind of go from one row to another, then it, when you put together, it's not gonna look so good. So we have to follow this, this row. We don't kinda jump here and jump back because if you do that, it's easily done. If you do that, then this seam, once you've pulled it all together and tightened, it, will not look so good. Alright? So we tighten it again too much. And we go make sure that the stripes line up because we are going for a seamless result. So yes, this is going to take some time and pretty much continuing as normal as we have done so far. So I will get back to you once it is done. Okay, so now I have finished stitching the sulk. As you can see, it's kind of seamless on both ends. That's where it's kind of folded. And now we can put our mobile phone in it. And that's our project complete. So congratulations, you have completed the continental knitting for Beginners Course. You have made to projects and you have all the skills that will allow you to further develop your knitting. You can knit, you can pro, you can cost on, you can bind off, and you can stitch things together. So the world is of knitting is open to you. If you are interested in furthering your skills, then basically you have a look at other courses that I will be posting on skill share. My great love A's making toys. So very shortly I will be posting a calls where we will be knitting this little creature. So this is the first foray into making toys for somebody who is just beginner. So with the skills that I've taught you in this class, plus some extra, additional scales that I will teach you in the next class, you should be able to create something like this, which I think is although the cute. So yeah, I hope you've enjoyed your clock, your class with me and I hope you enjoy anything. 19. BONUS: How to Fix Mistakes When Knitting: So in this video, I'm gonna show you what to do if you've made a mistake. So the first category of mistakes is when you have done something like you've done a different stitch that you are supposed to. So for example, this happens often when you following a pattern for a more intricate stage or even if you're doing some stuff like ribs, statue, masstige. Or you have to basically change between and knit and parallel stitches. And sometimes you may get confused, a little bit distracted and you do the wrong stage. So for example, here is a block of stocking stage. So all of this should have been knitted rather than polled. And as you can see here, there is a parallel stitch, so that's a mistake. And obviously if you don't catch it, it will be visible. So don't panic. If you catch a mistake in the same row that you are currently knitting. The remedy is relatively straightforward, so you, underneath it, I've had the term tink as an opposite of knit. So you basically stretched the work between the needles and when you do so, you can see that there is a little window here. So you get your left-hand needle into that window and you basically release the stage back onto the left-hand needle. So you basically just undo the stitches that you've knitted. So like that, until you get to the point where you've made a mistake. Here. Oops. And now you know that these are all knit stitches. You have, I'm done all the other stitches so you can now proceed to net as normal. So that's one thing that's, you know, that's when you actually notice it within the first row. Another common mistake is when you drop a stitch. So my wrapped. So you continue knitting and suddenly you realize after artistic. So again, if you notice it relatively quickly, then you can go back to that stage. And for these purposes, we need a crochet hook, preferably in the same size as the knitting needle. Mine is a bit smaller, is 4.5 or got the wrong one accidentally, but it will still work so you catch the stage that you've dropped. And here you can see that you've got these kind of ladders. So the stitches that basically got undone, and you just catch that that thread and you pull it through this stage. And then you go into the stitch again. And you catch the next thread. And you pull it through the stage again and then onto the knitting needle. And as you can see, if you catch it quickly, you can't even see that anything has happened. And you basically just continue knitting. Now. You have to see what it's kind of easy to see how to pick up the stage because you kind of need to see what happened. So for example, now we are going to have a look at the parallel side and the same predicament. So a dropped stage. So Perl, a couple of stitches in to the row. And now again, we have dropped the stage. So again, you use the crochet hook, you grab the stitch. But if you can see this stage is formed slightly differently. So if you were to release it, this is how it comes out. So you can see that in order to pick this stage, you have to insert the crochet hook from the back and pull the yarn to the back. And again, you put the crochet hook back into the stage. It's kind of difficult to see. So this is the code that the districts that you've just picked. You entered a crochet hook from the back. The yarn is in the front because it's parallel. And again, you pull through that crochet, through that stage. And you will need to come out going again. From the back. Again. We've got another yarn strand. We grab the yarn strand and we pull it. And now we're up to date. So we just put that stitch onto the needle. And as you can see, again, you can't we can't see pretty much that there was a dropped stage. But it basically basically you you need to you will see where basically when, when the city's dropped, you would just need to replicate how these stitches are made. So you will see that if you are on the net side, you go with the crochet hook from here and you just pull it. If it's on the power side, you see that the crochet hook will have to go from the back because you just want to replicate how those stitches are made. It's not really a great philosophy. But again, this is when you, you can still grab this digit. There's one state, you don't have a huge hole, you just have one stitch that's that's basically ladders down. And you can just grab it and work your way into it works over like 23 rows. So even if it cannot, if it went down three routes, you can still build it up. And depending on the yard, I mean, with these chart, with this chunky on, it's quite forgiving and you won't even see. If you are knitting something very tiny on tiny little needles, you know, it was very flat appearance. You may actually see in the pattern that you know that this is where the stitch was dropped and picked up. But generally this is the best way to deal with it. Now, what happens if you have made a huge mistake or if you've made a little mistake like I just showed you, like you perturb something instead of knitting, but you've completely, you, you just did not notice it. And suddenly it's here and it's spoils the effect. And then you have to basically rip the yarn back. The word for ripping it back is frogging. So apparently because it makes the sound of RIP and rip, rip. But basically you, if, if you actually have a place where you have to, which you have to repeat back, it's good to have like a stitch marker and just market vassar, you, you go back just to the place where you need to rather than go too far. But unfortunately, this is the thing you have to read back. And then what do you do? Well, it's kind of tricky, especially when you have smaller yarn to actually pick up all those stitches. Sometimes it's actually better to picking up to use a knitting needle one size, smaller than what you're using because it will be easier to go get that needle into those little loops. And I just go in and I just pick it as the easier it is. Just the point is to pick up all of those stitches without losing any and basically get them back on the knitting needle. I'm actually needs paralleling. Alright, so I frog back. And now I've got the magnetic back on the needle. But the thing is that when you pick it up, especially if you got a big knitting project like a sweater, you will find that in some cases you split the yarn like here. And also that those stitches are basically a wonky because they're not oriented the way they should be. So when you start knitting the next, the next row, you just need to make sure that those stitches are the right way. And you will see I'm in, for example this, you can see that it's wrong. So you just turn it around. And then unit, again, this one is wrong. If in, if you want to, if you tried to knit it, you can see it's a bit tighter, behaves differently. That's because, you know, when we were picking it up, we're picking it any which way just to sort of get the needle through. And it's just the stitch is twisted. So you basically go into the stitch, turn it around, and then unit this one the same. You go into the stitch. Then it around and then init, same here. They do tend to twist when you frog back. When you pick them back onto their needle. You can be very, very careful and tried to pick them in the same, same orientation as they should be. But it's not really practical because your priority in picking stitches is not to drop any and get all of them onto the knitting needle. And then once they're on a knitting needle, then you can sort things out like for example, this one, splits stitch. So we sorted out. And that's okay here again see splits stage, there's a bit of yarn. So we just get into that stitch. We try to put it all back together like this. This is kind of important because if you don't bother, then again, it might not be visible on this type of knitting, but if you are knitting something smaller, even like the standard size, flat sort of stocky nets ditch size for needles. You will notice like, like a line in your knitting where all the stitches were, were twisted and you didn't and twist them and then it will be visible. So you will have a flat piece of knitting and then you'll have like a noticeable line going across which obviously if it's like the front of the sweater and then it's really spoils the effect. So this is what you need to remember. And the last thing, the last thing that I would like to mention is when you, especially when you are a beginner, Neta, made sure that you count the stitches in every row. So because as you progress in knitting, you will be able to see, you can see all those kind of stitches. They kind of follow in a row. And you can see that they are all as they should be. But which is more visible on the underneath side. I'll just quickly turn. Okay, so on the night side, as you look at your knitting, you can see that you've got all of your rows and each row ends with the stage, which is all mice. From this one principle stretch, stretched. But what happens with many knitters? If they don't, kind of, if they're not able to see exactly what were the stitches come from. And they get a little bit paranoid about dropping stitches. So what they sometimes do, they start knitting and then they kind of get confused. And I, for the natural prestigious though, especially for knitting quite loosely and you can see things properly. And it's like it's that dropped stitch. And then they pick a stage and then they knitted. Now if you do that, if you start picking strands of yarn because you thought you dropped the stage, you will end up with your work basically growing in width. And, you know, I mean, I've heard of people basically starting his scarf like this and basically turning into a bed sheet. Because by the time they finish because it just they kept adding adding stitches because they were worried that they dropped something and they weren't sure whether they have or not. And then they would pick up pick up yarn to which they thought was dropped stage. And then that would just result in more and more stitches on the needle. So it's good practice to count the stitches you have every row or every two rows. If you are following a pattern, if good pattern will tell you row by row how many stitches you should have in every row. And then you should be basically checking that number of rows that you have it as the pattern suggests. So that's good practice. And also if you do lose a stage, it kind of unmistakable because you kind of see it, he will at 1, you will have the lip of the stage kind of sticking out. And also you can see that, you know, you've got 1234 and then suddenly you've got 123, something's missing. So it's kind of easy to spot when you've dropped a stage. So if you think you've dropped a stage, but you're not sure, first, count the rows and makes sure that there is something to be remedied because otherwise, you will just end up with your knitting growing in size. And then people are really confused because I like what happened? They started with like 20 centimeters and I'm at 40 Now. The other thing that may happen is when you split the yarn so you know, if you sorry, because I just dropped a stage so and let me just quickly pick it up. Alright, so the other thing is when you, if you kind of do this, so you drop, you split the stage and you need half this. And then the other half as, as a second stage, again, you will end up with more stitches that you should have. But essentially, it's not written in stone. That's why I like knitting. I probably will be very, very rubbish at sewing, because sewing is less forgiving if you cut the fabric and cut the fabric with knitting economies and pick and start again. So no worries.