Conquering Crochet for Complete Beginners | Jessica Venture | Skillshare

Conquering Crochet for Complete Beginners

Jessica Venture, a girl gone crochet crazy

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14 Lessons (1h 4m)
    • 1. Introduction

      2:33
    • 2. Quick History of Crochet

      1:22
    • 3. Hooks and Yarn-everything you need to know

      18:12
    • 4. How to hold your yarn and make a chain

      6:35
    • 5. Single crochet and recognizing stitches

      7:39
    • 6. Turning rows and straight edges

      5:07
    • 7. Changing colors

      4:42
    • 8. Adding a border

      5:27
    • 9. How to finish your work

      3:04
    • 10. What your project should look like

      0:48
    • 11. Blocking your work

      2:36
    • 12. Quick Recap and See you next time!

      1:38
    • 13. Extra: common crochet terms

      2:51
    • 14. Extra: How to combine 2 strands of yarn

      1:50

About This Class

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Welcome to the Conquering Crochet class for beginners hosted by Jessica Venture from Hott Knots. Learn to make your own eco-friendly potholders that you can use for yourself or give away as thoughtful gifts! This class is geared towards beginners who are looking at taking up crochet as a hobby so that they can get going crocheting all the things! 

The class is broken down into detailed step-by-step videos explaining everything you need to know about hooks and yarn, how to hold your work correctly, how to make your edges straight, change colors, add a border, and even a little quick history lesson on crochet! 

In order to complete this project you will need to get some chunky cotton yarn and the hook size that coordinates with the yarn (you will find this on the sleeve)...no worries, we talk all about that in the class!

Once you've made your potholders make sure to share a picture of your work in the class project gallery.

Don't forget to head on over to my crochet shop and browse through all the chunky patterns! Once you get the basics down you'll want to DIY your whole house with eco-friendly material like I do! 

https://www.etsy.com/shop/hottknots/

Transcripts

1. Introduction : local to Congress. Hirsch A. I'm just your teacher today. I've been running a pushing business out of Italy for the last couple of years called Hot Nods. And I've been basically teaching work shocks all over the country and making patterns with full videos, tutorials I sell on Etsy and rabble with another popular. But today I'm gonna be teaching you the very basics of how to Cochet. Everything you absolutely need to know from buying the yard and the hooks to making your very first item and stay in the class we're gonna be working on pot holders is really for somebody who's looking at taking up pushing as a hobby. Maybe you wanna learn how to make a baby like it for the baby coming in the family. Or maybe you just want to deal. Why everything in your house and you're tired of buying plastic containers and you just want to make everything eco friendly. This is a great class for you. When you know how to first shape, you could literally make anything for your your home could make gifts for people for like you could make Christmas stockings. I mean, it's just endless. The things that you can make, and it's so precious. It's a skill that it's kind of dying today. So we want to keep this alive and find teaching this spot to kind of share this skill with the younger generation that her shame can still be modern and still be really fun. So in this class will be teaching you everything about the arm and folks and fibers and the materials we need to Croce with. I mean that you have to hold your work correctly. How would you recognise ditches? How to turn and make your edges really straight, how to change colors and also have border to your her shape over reason that this process is so important because it covers foundation skills, the foundation that you need to build on to become a great per share. I've been part of so many types of crow shake groups where people have been pushing all their lives and they still throw shade things that kurban and carve out and go around, and they don't know why. It's frustrating them because they never got the basics right. It just don't know those simple rules like that. You have to change one at the end of every road, you have to do this, do that. There's simple bulls that you just need to get down. Once you get those down, make any. If you get these skills and ran in your mind, you'll feel to push a beautiful projects to give ways, gifts for life. So before we get started, make sure you go ahead and join the chunky kirsch. Eight. Work on Facebook that you can post questions and have direct contact with me. We can have a great time sharing pictures in our projects and talking about person. Now I'm gonna tell you a little bit about the history of cruciate in 36. 2. Quick History of Crochet : educational time. Let's get on the glass, All right. Cochet comes from the French word Rochet, which means small hook. No one really knows where Cochet arrived. Everybody wants to credit. The first Pro shares were actually meant they were fishermen and hunters, and they would use the natural fibers in their area to make nets take fish. Cushy became really popular in America during World War Two. People would make beaded pushing persons from that point for shake kind of evolved over history. It became a big thing in the hippie error. Whenever people were making those big grants were couple blankets and they covered their counter to cover their stool covered everything with granny squares. This was a big deal, and even today now Christians involved again big designers I don't think about have incorporated there have incorporated crashing into their lines, making purses and sweaters and things like that. People have been making those pushing octopuses to get to a previous in the hospital as like a sense of comfort. And also there's something that goes on. John Bombing, where people appreciate public art on public services like offense, for example, will make like a flower defense That's a way of just spreading love to community. OK, now that you have a little bit of a foundation, let's go ahead and get started on first. 3. Hooks and Yarn-everything you need to know: Okay, so let's get started on yarn and hooks. We're going to start out by playing with some hopes, showing you what you need to get when you get to the store. You're gonna be like, overwhelmed. Oh, my gosh, there's so many different types of hooks that you can buy. What do I need for my project? Right? First, I started by telling you the different types of materials and what I find most comfortable . The most common you'll find is aluminum hooks or metal hooks. Usually, these slide very well on yarn, all different types of yarn. They're very comfortable. You can see here that also this hook, it looks like this. And between hooks they change the way the shape of this. So that's something to look for and you'll learn with practice what you like. So this is an aluminum hook. Then we have a smaller hook, and the smaller hooks are usually metal hooks. Back then, a long time ago, all the hooks for metal. So if you've got a collection of your grandmother stuffed out in a box somewhere, they're probably gonna be metal hooks. So but today they're usually aluminum, at least in America. And then you have plastic hooks that look like this. And also you can see that the tip here is a little bit more pointy. Then this one here, which is a little like a nub. So this is pretty common also to find plastic cooks. And then we have wooden hooks and this was made by an arty Asian, I believe on etc. And so you can see also that the hook is actually a little bit different. Wouldn't hooks are pretty interesting and fun to use, And then you've got hooks that have special grips and handles. Some people really, really like this. My favorite is actually aluminum aluminum because it slides really easy on your work. Whatever type of fiber you're working with, the slides really, really easily. I don't like Teoh to buy the ones with the gummy, um, handle because I'm so used to using it without it that I just find it kind of funny. Anyway, this is something that you can It's really your preference. What type of material you like to use. People are kind of going away from plastic these days anyway, so then the second thing you have to notice whenever you go to the store and you look at hooks is the size, of course. So if you notice on this hook, if you concede E, there's a letter here in the United States. They do this lettering. So this is a letter J. Hook or a size six millimeter. That's also that's what we use everywhere else. So that's the size of hook here and then. Sometimes they write this in different places, like on the end. Here it says 5.5 millimeter. Sometimes it will be written on the bottom, but it has to be demonstrated somewhere. Here. It's written here, 50 size 25 millimeter and hear these tiny little ones. This is 1.5 millimeters, so that's something else that you need to look for. Usually you can buy like a case of different sizes, which is a really good idea, because often times when you follow a pattern, you may have to change hook size, for example, say they say, to use a size six millimeter, you may have to change that because your crow Shea tension is so tight. So you need to go up a size or, if you crow. She really loosely You need to go down a size. So the really good idea to just buy a case and have all the different sizes, the basic ones that you need also because you can lose hooks really easily. So having extra hooks is never a problem. There are actually people who go Croce crazy, and they have, like, a collection of folks. You should see my collection of books. I have a lot of books in my house anyway, so that's a little bit about roofs. Now, whenever you go to the store and you say you want to make a blanket, how do you know what hook size to buy for the blanket? Well, the way to figure that out is to take a look at the sleeve of the yarn that you're going to be using. So I'm gonna show you, hear what that is? Okay, so I've got some of this yarn that I got at the store that I really like. If I turn it around, this is the sleeve. There's some information that's written here says it's medium weight, but that doesn't say the hook size that I need something to keep looking. Here we go here, there's a knitting symbol. This is not Cochet, but it's knitting. Um, but it pretty much goes for either crow. Share knitting. It's a six millimeters, so they recommend a size six millimeter hook for this thickness of yarn on. And that's what I have here. So basically, this is the perfect size hook, according to them that you should use. And based on this, that's what that's how you figure out what size you need. But just remember, like I was saying, that you don't have to go by this. If you know that you, your favorite sizes a five millimeter, then you can work with a five millimeter. That just means that your work is gonna be a little bit tighter. If you work with a bigger hook, your work maybe a little bit looser and have more holes in it. Now I have another ball of yarn here, and this is this has a This is a German brand. So I've bought this here in Europe where I live and it's a little bit different. It says, You know, this is a size three light weight, your D K. But here we have a hook, symbol and a knitting symbol, and it says size 3 to 4. So you have some play room. You can decide if you want to use a size three hook for hook whatever. Usually what I do when I start a project is I will start with with an in between size hook playing around with it. See if I like how it's coming out, how the work is. If it's super loser has holes or whatever, and then I'll rip it out and change my hook size if I want Teoh. So now we're gonna talk about the different types of wool and yarn that you can use. Okay, so now we're gonna talk about all the different types of yarn and fibers that you can use. So we have three main types of fibre. You have natural fibers. You have synthetic fibers and mixed fibers, so natural fibers would be things like this, which is jute or cotton or 100% wool, which is something like this. What you need to know about natural fibres is that they're more expensive there, however, um, warmer. There's nothing that compares to natural 100% natural wool to keep things warm on. And also, they are best for skin allergies. So I'll tell you more about each feiger later. Then you also have, um, synthetic fibers, which is basically, um, polyester mixed things like that. Um, something that is mixed would be usually the cheaper stuff that you find everywhere. This is, you know, the make. The main thing that is sold today is this type of fiber. This is durable. So that means that you can put in the washing machine it won't shrink or lose the color. Really? Eso This is why people really like to use this. However, just keep in mind that it is not always the best toe work with Some people get irritations from this on their skin. Other people don't like to use this for babies. You know, at the end of the day, it is basically a fancy type of plastic. Okay, so the first thing that you need to do when um deciding what type of yarn to use when you go to a store is you need to figure out what you want to make. Based on that, you know what type of yarn or what size yard to get. Say you want to make a hat. Well, you know, that needs to be warm, so you might want to use wool. Or if you want to make a baby blanket and the baby is going to be born in the summer, maybe it's best to use cotton. Um, or you just want to make something to cover a foot, cover or stool. Maybe you'll use synthetic fibre. So now we're gonna talk about all the different fibers. So yarn is basically sectioned off into weights and material, and now we're gonna talk about the different types of weights. So first you have something that's called Super Fine, which is basically going to be this one. Here. You can see how finest is Ope. Scott, Cut that caught my ring. You can see how finest is. And this is something that they used to use a long time ago to make Doyle ease. Usually the older women use this, at least in the country. I live in Italy to make Doyle ease and find things like that also to make Irish lace and stuff. So this is what they would use to make lace, and there are different. Um, thicknesses of this is Well, this is super fun. It can also use this to make baby socks and clothes. Then you have fine in light, fine and light weight, which is gonna be a little bit thicker than this. And that's used to make usually socks and baby booties and things like that. Also, an Amy grew me crow. Chez Amy Guru Me crush A This is would be something similar to find and lightweight, amigo Rumi is the Japanese word for little creature, I think. And yes, all those little dolls that's Amiga, roomy. And, um, anyway and so if you read the sleeve, you're gonna see the weight symbol. It has it there. So this is medium. For example. This is light. Um, another lightweight or fine yarn would be this type of yarn. And this is something that you can crow Shea Teoh, you know, Christmas Christmassy things, or you can add it to another strand of yarn and cruciate, both of them together to add a little bit of brilliance. So then we have medium weight. Medium weight is what I just showed you here. This is very typical in the United States. This is what most yarns are sold as medium weight. It just I don't know why it's typical, but it is. Um, usually when you make a blanket, you use medium weight yarn. Then you have, um, chunky or bulky yarn. And this is more so like this. You can see that it's much thicker. Of course, you need to always read the sleeve and see what size hook to use. This, for example, is bulky, thick cotton. Um, this is bulky Jude. So the bulk Innis kind of changes depending on what it is. And the company you know, things like that. Another bulky is T shirt yarn. This is what it looks like and this is made from leftover T shirts. And then we have super, bulky, super bulky. Is this here? This is super bulky yaar, and this is actually 100% wool. This is the sample that I got from a company. Let me show you, actually, a huge, huge bombing off super junkie. All right, here is a huge ball of super chunky, super bulky yarn. This is a new fad. In the last couple of years, people wanting to make giant blankets and giant, you know, giant knitting with your arms and stuff. This is what this is here. So now I'm going to talk a little bit more about the fibers. So I have jute, cotton, pure rule and T shirt and synthetic maced. Okay, So, jute, this is a great fiber to make baskets or purses or something, like a face scrub or a soap holder for the shower. This is what you would use jute for, um, or if you want to make a rug, that if you like the feel of it, you can make a rock for the outside for the patio or something like that. Cotton. I bought this to make a face scrub a softer face script for myself. Um, this has been naturally died. So that's something that you might want to look into. Make sure that it's not synthetically diet. Um, cotton is great for the kitchen, actually to make hot pads, and that's what we're gonna be using today. Is this cotton because it doesn't burn whenever you make hot pads? Cotton is also great for summer things. So if you like to make, if you want to make summer clothing than you should probably use cotton because it's breathe herbal. So that's something great about cotton teacher urine. This is mainly what I work with. This is great for all types of home decor and purses and anything that where you want to see a lot of texture. This is definitely what I use every day when I crush a I just love how giant and jumbo all the stitches come out to be. And this is actually really great to get started on because it's the stitches air so big, so you can easily see them whenever I teach micro she workshops, especially with Children. I always use T shirt yarn has very easy. Then we have 100% wool. So if you're thinking, Oh my gosh, wolf so scratchy will not necessarily there many different types of wool, different types of sheep, you know that have different types of wool, some of its scratchy. Some of it is not. Some of it is extra fine. Well, this is extra fine. Extra soft merino wool merino wool is the softest school that there is, and it is very, very soft. This is great because it's not irritating to the skin. It does not absorb odors, and it's very, very special. And so it's the most expensive. Some. What you need to know about crashing with natural wool is that you cannot wash it in hot water. Whenever you wash in hot water, it will shrink of you probably know this, but people do this anyway. And then another thing about wool, though that is important to know. Let me get out some a bigger one here and you can see so well. Ah, what's important to know about will also, when you're working with this, is that it has the effect of Pilling. Pilling just means that the fibers slowly start to come apart. And so, if you don't like that, then you have to get a type of, um, rule that IHS spun more. Finally, um, you know, they spend it when they make it, or you would use synthetic. When you use synthetic fibers like this, there is no pilling that's going on. So if you like something that's nice and clean, a clean look, then you will go with this. If you like this effect of the pilling and the fibers like, you know, all kind of meshing together, then then go with wool. And then we have synthetic, um, mixed blended yarns. So this may be, for example, 40% wool, 60% polyester or something like that. And this is just a really great thing, Teoh. It's sustainable. Which means, you know, you can make a hat from this and then washing, washing machine and dryer even. And it just won't, um, shrink and so or lose the color. And so this is really a great um for, you know, durability. And they also make these really soft. You wouldn't really know that it's not riel. You know something else that you'll notice whenever you buy yarn is that it will say, for example, four ply or eight ply or whatever. What does that really mean? Well, what that means is that, um, strands air spun together. So this, for example, is a two ply because two strands of wool were spun together, and so it kind of gives someone an idea of the thickness of the yarn on. But that leads me to the next thought, which is yarn weight is called. It's not called the same thing in every country. Eight ply For example, eight ply yarn is what they say in Australia to mean, um worsted weight yarn in the United States or in the UK they use another term. I believe it's our on our air and yarn, so keep that in mind as well. Whenever you change countries the yarn, you know, the way they call the way that they call the weight may be different. So for this yarn, if we're gonna use this isn't us as a sample. Um, here we have a washing and drying symbol here on on our sleeve. It says machine washable and dry able that tells us that this is not cool. This is not a natural fibre. It's a synthetic fibre. Um, it tells you all the information you need to know on here. It also tells you how many yards this is, the length of it. So whenever you read A whenever you buy a crow shape pattern, it will tell you a good pattern should tell you this that you need to buy for example, this many yards of the wool or you need to buy five balls that way, 300 grams each, for example, it will tell you that way you know how much to buy. It's important to know that you need to buy, um, more than enough, never less Never. Listen. Don't start out buying two balls of yarn if you think you're gonna need three, because what happens is you'll go back to the store and then they're not gonna have it anymore, or they'll give you another one. That's the same number, like the same exact color. But the dye lot is different, meaning that they dipped it into the dye. It was a separate one, a separate logic on a different day, and then the colors don't exactly match up, and then your whole project looks a little bit funny. So when you start a product and you go to the store and it says you need four balls of yarn by four balls or by five, don't ever buy less. It's just always a good idea to have more than enough because you also don't know the tension of your crow Xiang, and we're gonna talk about that. We start the next video and we actually start making our potholder 4. How to hold your yarn and make a chain: All right, So let's get started. Go ahead and get out your choice of yarn and make sure that you have the correct size hook . Like we talked about the last video I'm using cotton urine. So it needs to be cotton if you're making potholders or t shirt urine or something with cotton, because otherwise, whenever you pick up something hot, if you're using something that synthetic, it will burn. I've got a size 10 hook that goes with my, um, thick the thickness of my yarn. So if you see here this contend to come apart, all the different plies together. If that happens, just twist it back up. No problem. That's the act of spinning. So to start out, we need to make a slip knot onto our hook. To do that, you're going to make a loop over your two fingers. You're going to cross to the back and basically go under and pull up a loop. So I'm just gonna tuck this under, and I have this loop here, and then I'm gonna pull on the to bottom strings and tighten it, and there is my slip not Let's do that one more time to make a slipknot onto the hook. You're going to make a loop over your two fingers, crossed the back, and you're gonna tuck under a loop. I'm gonna use my finger, their toe, hold it, let go. And then I'm gonna take the two ends and just pull like so and then just adjust my look. Stick your hook in there. Okay? So now we're gonna talk about the position of how toe hold your work. You've got the hook in one hand, and I like to take my finger and place it over the working over the yarn here, Um, and then your other hand is going to be holding the arm. So what I like to do and what my great grandmother taught me the easiest way she used to correct me over and over with my position, telling me it was so much easier to do it this way. You put the urine in between your fingers like this, and this is really important for your attention. So just like whenever you so something, there's attention on a sewing machine. Well, when you work with your hands, you have attention. And there's certain ways to regulate that tension. So you've got your yarn held in one hand like this and you've got your finger holding the not that you made over here. And look, I even just naturally tuck the tail with my other two fingers. So now that you know how to hold it now we're going to start working on the chain. The chain, the foundation chain is how you start every kirsch, a project to make a chain. What you need to do is a need to yarn over hook, so yarn over hook. The abbreviation of this that you'll see in Cochet patterns is why, oh, or in other countries, Y o h. There are two ways to urine over the hook. Let me show you the best way. The best way is to make sure that the yarn goes from the back to the front. This is because you're kirsch. A work will be much, much looser and not so tight. If you instead yarn over to the left like this, your work will be very tight and a little difficult to work with. So whenever we yarn over hook, make sure that you are never going to the right like this you yearn over, and then you have to slide this through this This loop. The easiest way to do this is to take the tail that you had on this hand and then switch hands and hold it over here while I hold this. I'm also gonna hold the not to keep it in place, nice and study. And then I'm just gonna be sliding my hook and twisting to get it through here. So I'm gonna slide and twist at the same time to make my first chain. And now we have a chain one. I'm gonna switch hands with my tail, holding it secure Over here. Nothing is flapping around in the air. Don't worry about that. We wanna have everything under control. Now I'm gonna do my second Jane. So again, we're gonna yarn over to the right like this, and you see, the plies are coming and done a little bit. Just twist that back up. That's OK. And then take your tail and move it to the other hand, holding the not their secure. Take your other hand and twist and slide through. That's chained to If you read a pattern, it will be you will see C H two as an abbreviation chain too. And so now we're going to keep on making some chains. Let's say let's make 13 James. So I'm gonna yarn over and slide and twists to go through. At this point, I could just keep this work in this hand instead of switching back over. So I'm gonna yarn over by taking my hooking going around like this twist and go through. I'm gonna make a few of these and then I'm gonna show you how to recognize the chain. Okay, so here's our chain. This is the chain upright. There are two lips to a chain. Whenever you work on the chain, you will go into the middle of the chain whenever you work back across it in between the two lips for the two legs. However, you would like to say that if you turn the chain around, this is the bottom side of the chain. There are instead bumps here, if you can see those bumps. So for the purpose of this class, we're going to be working into the top side of the chain. It's the easiest, most basic thing to do, So just make sure that when you work across the chain, you're working on the upper right side of the chain, not twisting and working in the back. It's important to not twist your work whenever you Whenever you're Cushing across, make sure that it's always held in the upright position and you go in between each of the two legs. So go ahead and Cochet 13 chains across. When you get to the very last chain, pull up a large loop so you don't lose your work. Take your hook out and rest, and then we'll move on to the next video. 5. Single crochet and recognizing stitches: Okay, so now we're going to be working across our chain making our single kirsch a stitch. It's so go ahead and put your hook back into work whole your loop and adjust it to the right tension. Okay, so we made 13 stitches, and now we have to work across the chain. We're going to be making single Cochet stitches. Whenever you read a kirsch a pattern, the abbreviation will be S C. So in order to start with our first row, we have to skip one stitch and working to the second stitch. The loop on your hook does not count as a stitch. The first stitch is this one. You can see there is a V here, not counting the loop on the hook. The second stitch will be here. We're gonna make our single Cochet into the very second chain in between these two legs. So to make a single Cochet, make sure that you've got your hook in one hand and you've got your yarn in between your fingers. In the other hand, hold on to your work with your left hand. If you're left handed, you're gonna be doing this the other way. Holding your hook in your hand holding your urine. On the other hand, your hook. In the other hand, the directions are always the same. Don't worry. So now we're skipping the 1st 1 going into the second chain, you're going to go into the middle, Then you're going to yarn over the same direction, making sure we go to the right, not to the left yarn over are hooked. And you Now you need to come out of the hole that you just went into. Now you have two loops on your hook. Now you need to yarn over again and go through both loops on the hook. So to do that, hold on to your work with this hand. The other hand is for your hook. I've got my yarn in between my fingers so everything is secure and controlled. Now I'm going to just use this hand to twist and pull my yarn through both loops on the hook. That is one single crow Shea. Now we're going to be crashing into every chain along. So we started out doing 13 chains, so we need to go down the road into the next chain. So in between these legs. I'm going to go in. I'm going to grab my yarn so it's already naturally just laid on top of there. That's perfect. Twisting and pulling through. I have two loops on my hook Now I need to yarn over, hold on to my work with my thumb and my other finger back here and pull through, and that's to single Cochet. So my yarn over here on my bobbin is a little bit tight, so I'm just gonna loosen it up a little bit. This is important to know that you need to make sure you have plenty of yarn toe work with that. It's not tight on your bobbin or on your ball or skiing or whatever you were. You wanna call it, um, because it affects your tension so we don't want. It's better that your work is looser than too tight. If you Cochet too tight, you can have really bad hand problems. Um, you can get arthritis. You can have trigger thumb. You don't wanna. You want to make sure that your work is nice and easy to go through, so make sure you have plenty of yarn toe work with, and it's not too tight. Just pull it loose every once in a while. So I'm going to keep on working across my chain. I've got my next two legs here, and I'm just gonna go into the center. It doesn't matter on which side of the bump your hook goes through in the back. Don't worry about that. Then I'm going to pull through my yarn young over, hold on to my work and go through to into the next two legs, go through the whole yarn over. I have two loops yarn over. Go through to Okay, so I'm gonna make a few more of these stitches, and then I'm gonna show you how to recognize the same course a stitch. Okay, so now we have a few single Cochet stitches here. How do you recognize this? Well, you can recognize it in two ways. First, when you look at it. So let's look at this. This one right here, there are two little legs. That's how you can recognize it. It kind of looks like the pi symbol. If you look at the top and then the two legs or you can turn it like this and at the top there is a chain that forms on top. So whenever you count your stitches, you need to count it in one of those ways either by counting the chains at the top or by laying it like this and counting the two legs at a time. So this is one stitch. This is another sitch. This is another stitch. Two legs at a time. This is another one and it coordinates with the top chain. That's how you can recognize you're single Cochet stitch. So I'm going to keep on going across my chain. I've got two more stitches to go. Okay, I've gotten to the end. Don't Cochet into the not that is not a stitch. You may have realized that we only have 12 stitches if I countless backwards and counting. It's so fundamental. Everyone remember that the loop on the hook does not count. Let me count this backwards. I have one here. I'm gonna count the top chains. Okay. 123456789 10 11 and 12. This is the last one here. I made a chain of 13 stitches, But whenever you dio whenever you work across doing single Cochet stitches. You always crow Shea the chain one stitch more than what you want your length to be because we turn and skip a stitch at the beginning. So I did 13 as the base chain so that I could have 12 even stitches across my work. Okay, So, like I said, counting is so important. This is where you're going to mess up whenever you're trying to count. Um, counting is easy if you know how to recognize your stitches. And you know where the beginning and the end is. The end is here. The beginning is here. This very first chain. You can see it very clearly from the top from the bottom on the side. It's not as clear to understand one way to help you to count stitches is to put a stitch marker in the beginning and end stage. So I'm gonna go ahead and get my stitch marker. Okay? So I don't I couldn't find my stitch marker, but I have a bobby pin, and that works Just fun. It doesn't matter. What you got is long as you can mark your stitch and remember it. Someone tip is to actually use a different color yarn stick a piece of yarn in there that's read or something, and then that's a stitch marker without buying one so 6. Turning rows and straight edges : So now we're going to turn our work. What does that mean? When you turn your work? Um, you'll see that in a crash, A pattern. And you're like, Well, do I turn it upside down to it? Trying to decide, How do I turn my work? It means to turn it backwards so you can work back across, so we're going to flip it. So I'm just gonna pull up my loop a little extra large that I don't lose it. And I'm gonna turn it like this. That is turning your work. Unless a pattern says otherwise. Now, we're going to work on the next row, so put your hook in there. And now, to start on the next row, you have to chain one in order to arrive to the height of the next world. You cannot just start crashing here. You have to chain one whenever you're working. Single Croshere rose across, so I'm just gonna put my urine over my hook and pull through Chain one. Now I am sitting nicely at the right height, and now we're gonna work across the chain. So we have 12 stitches. We need to work across now. We're not going to skip a stitch. We're going to work into the very first stitch. The only time you skip a stitches when you're working on the base chain. Now I'm going to work across My Such is going into the very first stitch where my chez nous sitting. So pick up your work. If you look at the top, you can see very clearly the first chain area. I'm gonna put my hook underneath both of those loops, like so yarn over. Go through two loops on my hook. He aren't over. Come through to Okay. And that's my first ditch for my second room going into the next. If you look at the top, you've got the two loops of your chain. You go underneath those two loops, grab some yarn, come out, yarn over and go through To now, some people have learned to go through just one loop, like the front one or just the back one. This is also a method to make some to make something look ribbed, which is really nice. But that is not the very basic foundation way of going through your stitches. The basic way of going to your stitches that you'll learn in any crash. A book is to go underneath both of the loops. So I'm gonna go in there, grab a loop, come out yarn over and go through to, and I'm gonna work all the way down to get to my very last one where my stitch markers is and then into the very last one. Okay, now I want to make sure that I have 12 stitches. So the easiest way to count is to count backwards because, you know, for a fact that you just made this ditch as the last one. But maybe you're not right. You don't remember which one you started, so always count backwards. Remember that the loop on the hook does not count as a stitch. You start with the 1st 1 here, which looks like these two legs, and then the top looks like pi, right? Or if you turn it, you can see the chains, the two loads of the chains very easily. So I'm gonna count 123456789 10 11 and 12. This loop here is the, um, end. Okay? It does not look like two loops like this So I have 12 stitches. We always need to have a 12 count. This is how you're gonna make sure you have straight edges. So now we're going to keep working by turning chaining one and working across to make the square that we need for our potholders. Now, you can change one before you turn or after you turn. It doesn't really matter. Um, I'm gonna chain one now and then turn my work flipping it like this so that I'm working in this direction. If you're left handed, you're gonna work in that direction. That instructions are exactly the same. You're just doing it backwards. Okay, So going into my very first stitch, you can see there's a loop here and a loop here. If we turn the work, you could see the two loops there. That's the first we need to go into. And we need to go into the two loops underneath the two loops you're in over. It's already practically laying on the hook. Come out, go through to okay, it's and we're gonna work 12 across. So why don't you go ahead and practice that making, um, making these roads, and then we'll pick up after the end of the third row 7. Changing colors: Okay, guys. So you crow shade your last one across. Now I'm gonna show you how to change colors. I have one stitch love to do so to To change colors for the next row, we need to complete the very last stitch by changing the very last loop. So I'm gonna go in grand my loop. Now, before I do my very last yarn over, I'm gonna add the new color here to make it look nice and seamless. So grabbing my next color, I've got some yellow. I'm just gonna lay this over my hook, making sure I've got a good tale on that side so it doesn't fall out. Lay it over like this and then pull it through, Okay? And then you can just leave that hanging, adjust your tension by pulling on your strings. And now I'm going to chain one with my new color. Like so. So to change colors and a seamless way You always do the very last yarn over of your previous stitch in that color. Now we're going to turn our work. We've changed one already, and we're gonna work across with our new color. So leave this hang. You'll pick that up later, probably. And now we're gonna go into our very first stitch. So here we've got our two loops. And as I go into this, I'm also gonna be crashing over my tail. So I'm just gonna lay it on top next to my just gonna laid across here and go underneath it . Make sure that it's tucked in there. Come out, tuck it under, you're in over and go through to That's my first stitch. And I'm just gonna just my tension here and adjust my tension there. You can always just that later. Now I'm just gonna keep going. I'm gonna go into my next stitch working over my tail at the same time. Okay. And then into the next ditch, you are over. Great. And just keep going until you have no tail left. You can cut it if you want to. Where you can keep working across it. Just gonna keep on working. Okay? That's how you change colors. Look how pretty that is. You see the front in the back. Great. So we're gonna go cross. I'm just gonna do, I guess, Three rows. So let's do three rows of yellow. Everybody And then we're gonna switch back to the other color, which whatever co you've got, it's gotten to the end and the chain one and turned my work and go back across. So we're gonna do three rows and then we'll switch to the other color. Okay, so I've done three rows. I have one stitch left to do here. I need to make sure that my last yarn over off this stitch is going to be in this color. So my yarn is over here. I'm just gonna cut this, leaving myself enough tail so that I can so that in later and I'll show you to do that later. Then I'm gonna pick this up over here. So I'm going to go into my last ditch, grab a loop, come out and then yarn over in my very first color, just like I did the last time with the yellow going through like that. And then I'm gonna chain one and keep working and adjust my tension with my strings here, turned my work and keep going across. So keep going across, make sure that you work over your tail. It's the easiest way to secure your work. that way you don't have to, like, tie in and later, so go ahead and crush a three more rows and then we'll move on to the next portion of a class learning how to tie off. And so, in our ends. 8. Adding a border: Okay, So now we finished our three rows, and we're going to do a simple slip stitch border. Put your hook in there. What we have to do is we have to work around the entire thing. So we're gonna keep going in the same direction. If you're right handed, you're going over here. If you're left handed, you go this direction. We need to turn to the side to work on this side. So, um, whenever you work outside, it's not clear where to put your stitches, but you need to make one stitch per row. So we have this road here, which is our last road, which means one stitch goes here. We have the other road here. One stitch goes there. There needs to be one stitch that coordinates with each row. So that's the start. Now we're gonna make our slip stitch, so I'm gonna go into any loop here on the side that I pick up. It doesn't really matter. I'm just gonna pick up a loop yarn over and then pull through both loops directly. This is called slip stitching. Your just slipping through. Okay, now I have this row here, and I'm just gonna find any loop, go through. You aren't over and come through both loops on the hook right away. Now I have this row, so pull up a loop. Let's go in, Come through. And I'm gonna do that all the way down Slip stitching on the end. Okay. When you get to the corner, you can put to flip stitches in the same to make the corner a little bit more crisp. Or if you like rounded corners, you put one stitch. Okay? Think. Okay. So now you can see that we've done this basic little braid on top, which is really nice. Now, we're gonna be working on the bottom side of our work. So now we're gonna be working across the bottom. You've got your tail here, Which you can do is you can tuck that under as use. Um, as you slip stitch across, um, or you conduce it later. Whatever you want to do, it's always best to kind of work as you go. I think so. I'm just gonna go into my very 1st 1 here, this first bottom loop, and I'm gonna just slip stitch no there and go into every loop holding this yarn, making sure that I'm tucking in my tail so into the next into the next. Okay, and then you can cut off the excess if you don't want to keep on going. So I'm just gonna cut mind like that, and I'm gonna keep on working until I get to this side. Okay, So I'm at my corner, and I'm going to put two stitches into the corner. It's important to make sure you do more stitches in the corners that your work lays more square and not rounded. Some putting two stitches in there. Um, that's the bottom. Now I'm gonna turn work back up my sides just like we did on the other side. I'm going to go into pick up a loop here, and I'm just gonna urine over and come all the way through. And now I've got this row here. I'm just gonna find any loop and go into their I've got one too. I did, too. Now I've got this, Rose. I'm just gonna find a coordinating loop over there, and I'm gonna go all the way to the other side, like so Came in my ninth stitch. I wanna do another stitch in the corner. And then now I'm back at the top and I'm just going to do my last slip stitch across the top going into underneath both loops, going into every single stitch, going through coming out. And it's important that whenever you go through your loops that you're not picking up any extra strings. What I mean by that is when you go through the whole, you want to make sure that you're not grabbing any of these extra threads. Just want to go through, make sure you didn't hook anything extra. And whenever you have this over, you want to make sure you grab all the threads so that it's nice and clean. Okay, so I've gone all the way across and I have slip stitched my border. And now I'm gonna show you how to tie in the ends, cut and tie off in the next video, so go ahead and finish slip stitching all the way around. If you haven't for this lesson in the next thing, I'm gonna show you how to cut in Thai in your ends 9. How to finish your work: Okay, so now we're going to learn how to cut entire ends and what that means. First, you need to cut off your yarn. Always making sure that you leave a tail so that you have something the tie in. And then you need to pull the thread through like this, OK? And then you need to take out a tapestry. Natal. So I've got this little case here of needles and this is used for crafts and arts. This is a metal needle, and there are also plastic ones. Well, let me tell you the pros and cons of these little needles here. The metal beetles are great because they don't bend and they can go through stitches really easily. The so they're good for, you know, most everything. However, with chunky, bulky material like this, this is some chunky cotton or T shirt yarn or even something like this, which is super chunky. It's actually better to use plastic needles because the whole of the natal is bigger, and so it's much easier to work with. So what you're gonna do to so in your ends is you're going to thread your needle, making sure you get all your little fibers, Okay? And then you're just going to okay, go, um, to the back. So you want to thread through for your in the front? You want to get to the other side, So I'm just gonna go underneath these two loops, and there is no correct way to do this. It's just however you think looks nice gonna come through like this, then I'm going to flip it over to the wrong side. And I'm just gonna find some loops to go under and thread my work. That's one loop. Here's another one. The best way to thread in your work is to go in all different directions. So I'm going in this direction. Then I'm gonna go down a little bit, and then I'm gonna go back over in this direction. This is the most secure way. So you gonna thread several times and then once you're done with that, you just kind of pull a little bit too. Um, adjust the tension, and then you're gonna cut, and you don't have to cut super close today to the end. Because as you pull this, it will tuck itself under naturally. So I'm just gonna go ahead and tuck in all of my extra strings here. Okay, so now we have our potholder. And now I'm gonna show you in the next video how to block your work to make it even more perfectly square. 10. What your project should look like : Okay, so now that you've finished one of those pot holders, go ahead and make yourself another one, Huh? All right. I've made my second potholder. Yeah. I don't want to forget that. You need to make to. So what's great about Curuchet potholders, actually, is that you don't even need to crush a loop because it's made of loops. So you just need to, um, find a hole and hang it up, um, or stick it in a drawer. You know, if you wanted to add a loop, you could just chain make a chain on one of the corners. Whenever you're doing your slips to trolls, just chain and then keep going. That would be an easy way. If you wanted to do a loop, I usually just hang mine up. That is the potholder project. So this is what it should look like in the end 11. Blocking your work: So now we're going to block our work. What is blocking blocking means that you make your work into a block shape to make the edges perfectly square or to fix the shape of the Koshi piece that you're working on. So the first step to blocking at work is to, um, actually, to make this wet, you can either make it damp. You can either make it wet by washing it in water. Um, just a little bit. Or you can spray it with water to make it what it needs to be just a little bit damp doesn't need to be soaking or anything like that. Make sure that whenever you wet your Cochet work that you do not twist it. You want to just lightly squeeze it dry if it's dripping on, be gentle with it. So now you're going to need some type of foam base or something that you can or even like a pegboard, something that you can stick things into your gonna lay your work on top of the peace and get out some pins. So what I'm gonna do is I'm just gonna take the corners and, um, pin them down. So got one pin there. I'm just gonna can make it in the shape that I wanted to be in over here. I want this stitch to be more pronounced. Has the corner stitched? I'm gonna move it a little bit. Okay, so I've got my four corners on. I'll just stick a pin here just because then over here. Okay, great. So I've got my work blocked, and now it needs to dry. Um, use. You can dry this outside. Do not dry it in direct sunlight. You should probably dry it in the shade. Or if you don't want to dry it outside because of you know, bugs and the wind and everything, just try it inside. It should take a couple of hours. Um, And then once you're done and this is already dry, it's going to remain in that shape until you wash it again and everything like that. So, um, once it's dry, you just take it out, and then your your piece of work should be perfectly in shape. Now, this step is not necessary. You don't have to block your work. But I'm just showing you this so that you know what this is 12. Quick Recap and See you next time! : I s that we've completed a project and I just want to go over a few key points. So the first thing that you want to do is read the sleeping by er to check which took size You're going to meet If you want to be falling a pattern, make sure that you read the pattern first to see how many yards of you are going to me. Usually this a stated in life or in wait like 500 yards or 300 Gramps. Recognizing your stitches is fundamental so that you can count correctly. Counting is everything in cruciate. Don't forget to, Capt. If you want to be absolutely sure how cant correctly get yourself some stitch markers that you could mark the very first dish in the very blasted especially you're gonna be turning in your work. You don't have to have official state trucker. You can really just use anything around your house like I do. I just grab whatever I have hearings, hairpin were piece of yarn and then I just get going. So I really like to encourage you guys to post your work after you're done. I would love to see the potholders and give you feedback and answer any questions that you have also feel free to join the champion Cochrane Group on Facebook so that you can post Mary get feedback there. We like to focus on Shrunk here, the trump your side of Hershey life because it's more fun and bulky and textured and colorful. I love all those things, and so that's kind of what we feel. Some feel free to re watch these videos. If you really want to get these foundations down, we watch them write down notes and come enjoy my future videos. Follow my channel. I look for you to be a part of the community, so thanks so much for watching and taking this class cha cha from that elite video festival . 13. Extra: common crochet terms: all right. In this lesson, we're going to just go over a few crush a stitch abbreviation that you may want to be familiar with as you're learning to Cochet. Um, these are standardized, standardized Cochet abbreviations or terms in the United States. I will tell you a little bit about some of the the UK terms. Um, these are all terms that you will find frequently in cruciate patterns or online, or people will say these terms and use or something you should be familiar with. So, um, we the 1st 1 we have is ch for chain. We have sl as t for slip stitch stitches yarn over. Um, like I showed you in the class, the arming over in the UK instead, they say this which is which is yarn over hook is the same thing. So this is in the UK and, uh, this is in the US. All right, cluster increase, decrease. Popcorn stitch. Single pro. Shea. We did this together in the class. Single crush. A decrease. This is also called single pro Shea to together. Um, and there are all these other ones now, a lot of these air, some a lot of These are advanced stitches. The most important ones you need to know are the beginning. Ones like chain slip stitch stitches, urine over. Um, single pro Shea is extremely common. Um, double crow Shea. And this on here, Triple Cochet. This is how we say this in the United States. In the UK, it's called trouble. Okay. And, um so these are some common stitch abbreviations or terms that you should start to get familiar with. And whenever you're reading a pattern, they should have some of these agree vacations at the beginning of the pattern to just remind you what they mean. At least a good pattern will have that there for you. And even some patterns will include a description below of what that is and what you're supposed to do. So just get familiar with the basics. The one the basics are chain slip stitch, stitches. You aren't over how we say that in us or you're on over hook UK um, single Cochet, double Curuchet and triple double, Triple Cochet or trouble crow. Shit. So that's just a little bit of the basics 14. Extra: How to combine 2 strands of yarn : Hi, guys. So this is the bonus video. I'm gonna show you how to combine two strands of yarn. You will most likely have to always combine two strands of yarn as you run out of one bowl of your and you'll have to add on the same color or when you add on a different color. So I've run out of some of my yarn here, and I need to add on more, so I'm just gonna grab some more here. The most simple way to add on your in this is simply just tie and not make it really tight . And you can either cut away these ends or you can so over them, laying them flat like this as you keep pushing and you should not see that. That's one way to do it the most simple way if you don't feel like learning all these complicated methods that are out there. But not everyone likes knots because you could feel them in your work. So what I like to do instead is do the add on method, just like when we change colors in our tutorial. So what I do instead is I go through my next stitch and I just literally loop my other yarn over like this and continue to crow. Shea from what happens is in the back. I have these two strands and I will just, um, thread these through with my tapestry needle in different directions and they won't come out. You can even tie and not hear a this point if you feel more comfortable and it just kind of blends in with the back, you can't even see it, and then you can threaten it in if you like. So that's the method that I prefer to dio, um, just adding it on. It's the most simple thing that you can dio.