Charcoal & Graphite - Shading Techniques | Emmy Kalia | Skillshare

Charcoal & Graphite - Shading Techniques

Emmy Kalia, Pencil Artist

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7 Lessons (28m)
    • 1. Intro

      1:11
    • 2. Materials

      2:05
    • 3. Sphere Charcoal Shading

      5:20
    • 4. Sphere Charcoal Shadows

      6:22
    • 5. Sphere Graphite Shading

      5:33
    • 6. Sphere Graphite Shading

      5:33
    • 7. Final thought

      1:39
21 students are watching this class

About This Class

If you want to draw more realistic you will need to be able to create a smooth gradient and smooth transitions. The best way to practice this is by drawing spheres.

This class is perfect for beginners or anyone who would like to improve their shading techniques.

In this class you will learn everything about drawing a sphere with charcoal or graphite pencils and how to make a flat circle look round. I will show you which materials I use, how to build up the layers gradually and how to create a smooth transition with blending. 
First with a charcoal pencil and then with graphite pencils.

At the end of this class you will have a better understanding of shading with charcoal and graphite pencils. 

So grab your paper and pencils and let’s start practicing! Don't forget to share your work in progress and final drawings in the project gallery for feedback.

♡ Emmy Kalia

Transcripts

1. Intro: have you ever wondered while drawing? Why does my object or portrait look so flat? How do I make it look? Ram and three d. The answer is shading. Shading is important when drawing something realistic. If you want to draw more realistic, you will need to be able to create a smooth, greedy int and smooth transitions. Best way to practice. This is my drawing spheres to help you improve your own drawings, willing to be able to draw sphere with smooth transitions from the highlights to mid tones through the shadows in this glass, I will show you how to make a flat circle look around. I'm going to show you which materials I use step by step, how to build up the layers gradually and have to create a smooth transition with blending first with the charcoal pencil and then with graphite pencils. So grab your paper and pencils and let's start practicing 2. Materials: These are the materials I'm going to use. Bristol. Smooth paper, the charcoal pencil, three graphite pencils blending stump, soft tissue kneaded eraser and a hand sharpening machine. Of course, you don't have to use the exact same brands I am using. If you already have the materials and the best sharpener I found that works best to sharpen . Charcoal pencils is and sharpening machine. You can sharpen different sizes of pencils with it, so I use it for the charcoal and graphite pencils. The brand. I have ihsfah beaucastel because this is the only one my local art store had, But there are other brands to Before I start shading, I draw a circle using a light graphite pencil the size of your circle doesn't matter, but don't make it too small. Now, you don't want to outline your object like this with a darker graphite pencil because when drawing something realistic, you don't want to see any applies, and the light is coming from this side, so there will be a high life and not another line. You also don't want to shade holding your pencil like this, but hold your pencil more to the back to shake with the site of the pencil that this will allow you to create a more smooth transition while shading. Don't press hard, but yours like pressure and build up the layers gradually. This will allow you to erase or correct easily if you make any mistakes and at last don't shake going back and forth. But in circular motion, this will allow you to create smoother shading. Now let's start shading. 3. Sphere Charcoal Shading: for the first fair, I'm going to use the charcoal pencil When using charcoal, I start by shading the darker for its first, the light source will be coming from the top left side so the gore shadow will be on this side. I shade would like pressure because I want to build up the value and don't get very dark. Right away. You see me shading in circular motion, and in between I gently blow the charcoal dust away. Now I use a blending stump to smash the charcoal for smoother effect. I always do this after every layer. I also used to stump to pull some of the charcoal up where I needed to be lighter and with some extra charcoal that's still on the stump, I shaved the top part of the sphere. Make sure you don't have too much charcoal on your stomach when you do this, or it might get too dark. You could check on another piece of paper how dark the charcoal is. That's coming off the stump. I used to stump for the lightest parts because if I shaved with the charcoal pencil, it's too dark now with the soft tissue. I've lent some more. I use a clean, soft tissue for a smoother effect. Don't worry if this doesn't smooth in it right away, because this is only your first layer. Well, now another layer of charcoal to darken the core shadow show more, and I smudge again with the blending stump with the stump. I keep shading with the extra charcoal that's on there and try to create a smooth transition by shading upwards towards the highlight. After the stump, I use a soft issue again for a more smoother effect. Now one of my favorite tools, the kneaded eraser. You can use this to clean up some charcoal dust or some smudges coming from your fingers or hands. I also use the kneaded eraser to line in some areas or to create highlights. You could also leave this part, wipes and shade around it. But I don't do that because that way it's more difficult to get a smooth transition between your midterm and I life kneaded. Eraser doesn't erase fully, but only pulls off some of the charcoal for a lighter effect, perfect to create highlights. Now, the third layer to darken even more. You can see that I don't shake all the way to the edge this time. That's because there will be reflected light. Reflected light is a reflection of light coming from the surface of whatever your object that's sitting on again with the blending stump. I blend all the way up to make sure there aren't any lines, but a smooth transition from the core shadow to the mid autumn to the highlight. - And with the soft tissue to smooth and even more, I clean up with the need an eraser and live in the highlight again. Next, we're going to darken the core shadow and draw the cast shadow. 4. Sphere Charcoal Shadows: now the last layer of charcoal to darken the core shadow, and I repeat the same steps as before. The dark values will create death and make it look around here . I saw some smudges of charcoal, so I used to kneaded eraser and gently dab to lighten it. Then I used to stump to blend it evenly. That's how you could correct any mistakes eventually. Now, let's say the cast shadow. This will be under the sphere and on the opposite side of where the life is coming from. Now I'm drawing a line. This will be the surface that this fear sitting on. I'm lightning the edges of the cash shadow because the shadow will also have a great Asian close to the object. It will be darker. I used the same steps to darken and smudge in between each layer. Right now , I create the reflected light with the kneaded eraser and let with the blending stump to make sure I have a nice transition and no hard lines. - At last I clean up with the need of erasure, and this fear is finished. Next, we're going to draw sphere with graphite pencils 5. Sphere Graphite Shading: For this fair, I will be shading with graphite pencils, starting with the lightest, the three B with like pressure, I shaved the whole sphere. Except for the highlight, Rafay doesn't work as fast this charcoal, but it does allow you to be more precise. So take your time and don't forget to use on. Li like pressure because if you use heart pressure right away, you won't be able to add more layers and won't be able to create a smooth transition from the mid tones with the shadows. Now I use the soft tissue to smudge, and I also go over the highlight. I used a soft issue because this allows you to smooth out bigger areas evenly. Now the next layer with the five B pencil and I start shading in the middle again with light pressure and thats much with the soft tissue. Again, I have a clean up the edges a bit with the kneaded eraser for the next layer. I used a 90 I start shaving a bit lower and again with light pressure. - I blend this with the soft tissue. Now I'm using the blending stump to blend around the edges. The blending stumps are useful to bend smaller areas, and if you want to be more precise, I'm living the highlight with the kneaded eraser. Now I blend with the soft tissue to create a smooth transition and to get rid of any lines . Now, with the nine B again, I add another layer with like pressure to darken the core shadow, and I blend with the soft tissue. I repeat these steps to darken until I'm satisfied with the value of the core shadow. Next, we're going to darken the core shadow show more. 6. Sphere Graphite Shading: people adding graphite with light pressure to darken and as much after every layer. Because I shaved every layer with like pressure, I am able to keep on adding layers until I'm satisfied with the value. Now for the gas shadow. I start with the five B. I went in between each layer and darkened again for the reflected light I used to need of eraser and blend with the blending stuff. If you think it's too light, you could add some graphite and blend this again. I go back and forth until I'm satisfied. - I darken the cash out of a bit more, and this severe is finished, too. 7. Final thought: Now I want you to look around you. Every object you see that has life coming from one side. You will see a shadow on the other side because of the object blocking the light. For example, look down at your arm. You will see light coming from one side. That will be the highlight. Then you will see a transition to the mid toe and a transition to the core shadow on the surface where your arm is resting on, you will see the cast shadow. This is what makes your arm look around. If you observe that closely and practices more often, you will be able to notice this and everything. That's the most important thing to see, notice and recreate when you are drawing something realistic. Next you could study a photo or your own face in the mirror and look for the highlights. Mittens and shadows practice with this. I really hope this class is helpful and you will be able to Practice is for yourself. Practice drawing spheres as much as you can until you are comfortable with it before you draw a portrait. This will really help you improve your shading and eventually help you improve with their own drawings. I love to see your work in progress or final drawings. You cannot put them in the project gallery below for feedback. Thank you for watching. And I'll see you in the next class.