Canon DSLR Photography: Getting Started with Your DSLR | Phil Ebiner | Skillshare

Canon DSLR Photography: Getting Started with Your DSLR

Phil Ebiner, Video | Photo | Design

Play Speed
  • 0.5x
  • 1x (Normal)
  • 1.25x
  • 1.5x
  • 2x
40 Lessons (3h 15m)
    • 1. Enroll Now

      1:07
    • 2. Welcome

      2:26
    • 3. Start Taking Great Photos Right Away

      9:53
    • 4. Camera Overview

      11:25
    • 5. Introduction to Exposure

      1:31
    • 6. How to Read & Adjust Exposure with Your Camera

      9:21
    • 7. Adjusting the Aperture

      7:03
    • 8. Adjusting the ISO

      4:19
    • 9. The Exposure Triangle

      3:28
    • 10. Focusing

      3:15
    • 11. Aperture Priority Mode

      4:44
    • 12. Shutter Priority Mode

      2:27
    • 13. Program Mode and Exposure Compensation

      5:11
    • 14. Additional Scene and Shooting Modes

      7:49
    • 15. Bulb Modes

      2:52
    • 16. Focusing Modes

      4:19
    • 17. Autofocus Points

      5:41
    • 18. Picture Styles

      4:01
    • 19. Drive Settings

      3:05
    • 20. White Balance

      3:26
    • 21. Metering Modes

      2:59
    • 22. Photo Formats: RAW vs JPEG

      5:38
    • 23. Navigating the Menu

      3:01
    • 24. The Shooting Menu

      10:30
    • 25. The Play Menu

      4:27
    • 26. The Setup Menu

      5:01
    • 27. Creating a Custom Menu

      2:38
    • 28. Introduction to this Section

      0:26
    • 29. Wifi Settings

      5:43
    • 30. The Diopter

      1:51
    • 31. Using the Camera Flash

      4:30
    • 32. Reading Exposure with the Histogram

      4:56
    • 33. Camera Video Modes

      5:01
    • 34. Audio Levels

      3:06
    • 35. External Microphone

      5:57
    • 36. Lens Choices

      15:08
    • 37. External Flash

      9:32
    • 38. ND Filters

      3:03
    • 39. Memory Cards (SD Cards)

      2:34
    • 40. Thank You

      2:03
86 students are watching this class

About This Class

Improve your photography by learning how to confidently use your Canon DSLR camera - perfect for beginner photographers!

This is the only online Canon camera course you need to learn how to use your camera to take amazing photos!

Get comfortable using all of the buttons and features of your Canon DSLR.

Be confident taking great photos and understanding basic photography settings.

Quickly navigate your camera's menu to change any setting you want.

2359dbf2

By the end of this course, you should be able to pick up your camera in any situation, and use it to take beautiful photos. We want photography to be fun for you, and by knowing the ins and outs of your camera, it will help you to not only become a better photographer but also have a great time shooting photos.

In this course, we basically try to cover every button, dial, menu option and feature of a typically Canon DSLR.

What do we cover in this Canon DSLR course?

  • Quickstart guide to automatically taking great photos

  • Overview of the camera body, buttons, dials and ports

  • Taking a photo

  • Reviewing a photo

  • Exposing your photos properly

  • Automatic shooting modes

  • Burst and other drive modes

  • Focus modes and points

  • Metering modes

  • Exposure compensation

  • White balance

  • Color profiles

  • The Canon menu system

  • Formatting a memory card

  • Using the internal flash

  • Using an external flash

  • Reading the histogram

  • Wifi connection and Canon smartphone app

  • The viewfinder and diopter

  • Canon video modes

  • Recording audio

  • Using an external microphone

  • Choosing a lens

  • SD card options

  • ND filters

  • and so much more!

9ea44e5e

Who is this course for and what cameras is it good for?

This course is perfect if you are brand new to using a Canon DSLR. This course is great if you have zero experience with photography or if you already know a lot about photography, but are new to Canon DSLR cameras. Please note that this course will teach you how to use your Canon DSLR camera. It is not a complete photography course that will teach you the artistic and creative side of photography. This course is a more tech-specific course.

We taught this course using one of the latest Canon DSLRs in the Rebel series (the most popular camera for beginner photographers).  Even if you are not using a Canon Rebel camera, this course should be beneficial to you. Most Canon DSLR cameras are very similar and have similar options, buttons and features. Specifically our demonstrations use the T7i (also known as the 800D in some countries).

If you have a Canon 80D, 70D, 60D, T7i, T6i, T6s, T5i, T4i, T3i, T7, T6, T5, SL2, SL, 7D, 6D, 5D, 800D, 760D, 750D, 700D, 650D, 600D, 550D, 500D, or any other model of Canon camera, this course should help you.

Our goal is to make sure you love this course! We are always listening to students and improving our courses to make them even better. If you ever have a suggestion on how to make this course better, just let us know!

What are you waiting for?

If you want to learn how to take amazing photos with your Canon DSLR, enroll now!

See you in class!

Transcripts

1. Enroll Now: Do you want to know how to use your canon? DSLR to take beautiful photos? Perfect. This is the course for you, whether you just purchased a brand new camera of your own or received one as a gift, I'm here to help you get started. Reading your camera manual or watching free tutorials online can get you started, but you'll learn quicker and better with a complete A to Z guide on all the buttons, features and settings of your camera. That's what this course will teach you. Along with the video lectures. You will always get premium support from fellow students and instructors ready to answer any of your questions. My goal is that by the end of this course, you will be able to grab your camera and know exactly what you need to do to take better photos than ever, using powerful automatic modes or swapping over to manual mode to dial in the perfect settings. So again, if you have a canon DSLR and you're confused and don't know how to use all the features of it, and you want to get more comfortable and confident using it, this is the class for you. Thanks so much and we'll see you inside 2. Welcome: Welcome to the canon DSLR class. My name is Phil eb inner And in this class I'm going to show you how to use and feel confident taking great photos with your own canon DSLR If you're brand new to photography or if you have a brand new canon DSLR camera, this is the perfect course for you. And I'm so happy that you decide to join. As you can see in the course outline, we're going to jump right into how you can take amazing photos with your camera. So if you just got it and all you want to do is be ableto take great exposed photos that are properly focused, we're going to show you how to do that. Then we're going to do a brief overview of all the buttons, the doors, all the aspects of your camera. And then we're going to jump into more manual settings, all your different shooting options. Then we're going to jump into the menu and cover everything that's in a typical canon menu . And then finally, we're going to cover a little bit more advanced topics and show you some accessories that you can use with your cannon Now in this class, I'm going to be using a canon rebel t seven i DSLR. This is also known as the Cannon 800 D. In some countries, this is a very typical canon camera, and if you don't have this camera, that's totally fine. There's several blinds of DSLR cameras in the Canon brand, so there's the rebel Siri's that has the t five i the t six I Someday, and maybe by the time you're watching this, there's going to be a T eight I. In general, all these cameras work very. Similarly, there's other models to like the 70 d, the 80 d c. 70 the 60. These cameras are also very similar in terms of the options, the menus, the buttons you have now, if you have a different model A. But it might be placed a little bit differently, but we'll try to go over it so that you won't be confused if you are using a different camera. My goal, though, is no matter what canon camera you are using by watching this course, you'll feel confident at the end of it, knowing how to use it with all my courses. I know that It's not going to be perfect when I launch it. So if there's anything I can do to make this course better for you, please let me know. Send me a message. Post a question to the chorus lever review. Let us know what we can do to make this course better and what we're doing right. Anyways, I'm excited to help you learn. So grab your camera and I'll see you in the next lesson. 3. Start Taking Great Photos Right Away: in this video. I want to show you how to quickly start using your canon camera if you don't want to learn all of the manual settings, or if you're just ready to get out there and start taking photos and you want to make sure that it's exposed properly, meaning it's not too bright is not too dark and that it's focusing properly. So on any typical canon camera, you've probably figured this out already, but you're going to get your canon DSLR, and it's going to have the body, which is just the base of the camera and then a separate lens. That's what makes DSLR cameras amazing is because it has interchangeable lenses that give you MAWR professional options for taking creative types of photos. So to put on a lens, you're going to press the button on the side of the lens mount right here and then open that up. Now this is going to expose the inside of your camera, the mere which is the single lens reflex that opens up. That's why it's called DSLR, and so you want to make sure that you're not getting any dust or anything in there. So ideally, you're doing this in a clean environment. Next, you're going to take your lens, which also has a cap on the back of the lens. We're going to take that off and then, depending on the lens, you're going toe line up the dots. This one, it has a red dot There's also lenses that have a white square, and we're just going to line it up and then turn to the right or clockwise. Make sure you turn it until you hear the click, and then it's probably a good idea. Just toe. Give it a little bit of a wiggle to see and make sure that it's locked on. The cool thing about the cap that goes on the lens and that's on the body is that these can actually just screw into each other like so, and you can save that and put it in your bag or whatever. The next thing you're going to have to do is make sure you have your battery and memory card inside your camera, so I need the battery toe be powered on, obviously, so on the bottom of the camera that is going to be a little door that you generally can just pop open like so, and then you want to have a charged battery that you put in So you wanna see inside. There's usually these little metal or metallic bars down at the bottom that you can see, and those will line up with the metal sort of prongs that are inside. Now, if you don't have it the proper way, it's just not going to fit. So you don't have to worry about it like going in the wrong way. So you're just gonna flip it around until it again locks in place and inside the battery door is this little lover that if you press that open or press it up to the side, it pops out the battery. Now, depending on your camera, the batteries going to might be a different size. And so that's one thing you have to be aware of. If you are getting extra batteries, make sure they're the right size for your specific model with the SD card. Very similarly, there's a door on the side on the T seven I. It's on the right hand side, and that's generally where your SD card holder is going to be so you can open up this door just by sliding it out, like so I already have an SD card in here, but if you don't have an SD card, you just pop it in and press it in until again. It kind of locks in place to pop it out. Just press it in and lock it pops back out. Now we'll go into specifics on in terms of the SD card types and accessories later on. I have a 32 gigabyte SD card from SanDisk here. What's more important about SD cards is thes speed of the card. So this is 95 nb eso megabits per second, and that's going to write right your data on the file very quickly. If you have a slower card, it might take a while for your camera to process. It might not be able to take many photos as quickly as you want, so generally getting a faster card is better. And nowadays, memory cards are really relatively cheap, so that's a good thing. And 32 gigabytes is a good size, I would say get anything bigger than 16 gigabytes, even upto 64 or 1 28 is good. Now that you have your battery, your memory card and your lens attached or inside your DSLR, it's time to turn it on. So here at the top, we see this switch right here. It just turns it from off toe on again. Depending on your DSLR, it might look a little bit different, but generally on Canon DSLR is It's going to be a little switched next to this dial, which is the mode dial or the exposure dial. And we're going to be going over all of these options in the next section of this course. But just to get started, we're going to make it easy, and we're going to turn it all the way on the automatic mode. So that's this little green one right here that says a plus. Most canon DSLR is will have that a plus option, which is the complete automatic mode, meaning when you try to take a photo, it's going to look at the scene. It's going to adjust all of the internal settings, the aperture, the shutter speed, the eso all things will go into in more depth in future lessons. It's going to set all of that automatically, so it looks proper. The other thing you want to do is adjust the auto focus settings on your lens itself. Now this lens I'm using is called the 50 Millimeter Prime, so it's not a zoom lens, but it's one of my favorite canon lenses, and it's relatively cheap. And if you're looking to upgrade lenses, this is a great one. We'll go into more depth into lens choices in a future lesson here, though, you can see that it has a little switch that goes from MF Toe F Auto Focus to manual focus . Make sure you switch it over to auto focus so that you don't have to manually focus, which nowadays, with most DSLR cameras, is the way to go. Most cameras do a really good job at actually taking wealth exposed and in focus photos, and now we're ready to go. Here is the shutter release, but in which is the button you press to take a photo so all you really have to do is start shooting. You can look through the lens and you see here that when I look at the camera, try and take a photo. It actually turned on the flash, and that's because it's completely in auto mode right now and it recognize that it's too dark in this room. And so it's going to pop up the flash now to review my photo or toe, actually preview what my photo is going to look like. I can open up the back screen now. This is going to look different on different cameras. Sometimes there's just no flip out screen. This one is nice because you can flip it out. You can turn it around, put it back in place so that you can actually just go ahead and start taking photos like this. If you're not seeing what your cameras looking at on the screen, you have to press this little button right here, which is the white little camera button, and that's going to open up the lens and give you a live preview. So now you can see in the camera that I'm actually looking at what I'm going to take a photo of. So now when I took a photo like that of my blank wall, we didn't have to use the flash because there was enough light. So those are the two options for basically seeing what you're going to shoot. You could look at the back screen, or you can look through the viewfinder like a traditional camera. Note, though. If the back screen is open and you're seeing that life preview, you won't be able to see as well through the view finder. It's going to be blink so you have it cuts, pick one or the other and dress used this little life preview button there or whatever, wherever it is on your camera to switch. The last thing I want to mention is we saw that as I took a picture here, it brings up the flash. What if you want to take a photo without the flash, but you want everything else to stay auto. There is an option for this. That's the option next to the A plus, which is the one that looks like a little lightning bolt. With the slash through it, that's going to be a complete auto setting, but it's not going to use the flash, so that's an easy way to shoot without a flash. So I'm gonna shoot again. My settings are going to be different, but it's still going to try to expose properly. Now, if you're in a completely dark pitch black room, it might not be able to expose properly. But it's going to do its best with the settings you have in your camera. All right, so that's a quick start guide to using your camera. Remember what we cover, just adding your lens, your battery, your SD card, changing it to the auto mode and, of course, turning your camera on. We also saw how you can use the back previous green to see what your photos going to look like, and also how to change it from the auto mod to auto mode without flash. One quick last thing is to review your images. There's going to be a little button that looks like a play button. Here it is on the bottom of this camera, and if we press that button, we can actually scroll through our photos. You see this little doll right here? It looks like a little button in the middle and then has, like, up, down, left, right. When you're in the review mode, you can use these buttons to run through your different photos to get back to shooting mode . Just press that review button again that review. But it might be in a different place on your DSLR, and this little dial might look a little bit different. But on most canon DSLR ours, it's going to have some sort of joystick or dial like this to go left or right through your photos. All right, get out their practice shooting with those quick auto modes, and then the next lesson, we're going to go over a more in depth overview of the entire camera. 4. Camera Overview: Welcome back to the Canon DSLR class in this video, I'm just going to do a brief overview of your cameras. Features, mostly just the external features were not diving into the menu in this lesson, but just so that when you pick up your camera and you're kind of wondering what these different buttons reports are, you have a basic knowledge of it. Some of these things will dive into further in the next section because they pertain to more advanced manual features. So, as you can tell, I've switched lenses. I have a typical kit lens. It's the 18 to 1 35 zoom lens. So starting with the lens, you, of course, have your lens cap. So you take that on or off. Of course, that's going to be something I'm sure one day you open your camera, your get your camera out. You're trying to take a photo, and it's completely black. Check dizzy of your lens cap is on on the lens itself. There are generally going to be to dials if it's a zoom lens. One is for the focus. If you're manually focusing, one is going to be for the zoom. Just rotate to the left or right to zoom in her out and then saying with the focus, You're just going to have to get usedto where you turn it and depending on the lens, how far you have to turn it to get things in focus, just like we saw in the last video. There's a switch for auto focus and manual focus on the lens, and on some lenses, there's going to be an option for stabilizer. Stabilizer is a great option on lenses that helps stabilize the actual photo itself and stabilizes the lens. This is maybe more important for some video if you're shooting video with your camera but also with a long telephoto lens, or I lent that zooms in very far. This one does decently, it goes, zooms in pretty far. Having that stabilizer on is going to help, especially when you are zoomed in. Typically, the stabilizer will use a little bit of extra battery life, but canon batteries are generally pretty good. So I if I have my camera and I'm shooting photos, I'll have the stabilizer on. The only time all generally turn it off is if I'm shooting video and my cameras on a tripod where I don't need it on at all, because sometimes the stabilizer can cause a little motion if it's actually on a tripod, depending on the quality of the lens. So that's the lens we covered. Here's the button to turn. Take a lens on or off, so to press that button, you take it off. This lens has the white dot so we match or the White Square. So with this lens, we can match up the White Square, put it in the lens mount turned to the right. Now let's take a walk around our camera. So starting with the top, this is the hot shoe mount where you can put an external flash. You can also put in things like microphone that's going to be typical on pretty much any DSLR. This camera has the pop of flash, so we noticed that it popped up automatically when we were in the A plus or the green mode . But if you're in a manual motor, one of the other modes and you want to manually pop up the flash, there is a button right here to the left of the lens, right below the flash pop that up or click that and it's going to pop up the flash. So that's going to turn on the flash manually. On the right hand side of the flash mount on the big grip, you have your mode dial. We saw this. You have your on off switch past the on button is the video mode option. This might look different on your DSLR on the T seven. I it's right there on some cameras. There is a little switch on the back right here next to the live preview mode which might turn on your video mode. But you'll generally notice it by the video or film camera icon. You have your shutter release, but in that's how you take photos. You have this dial right here that controls some manual futures like shutter speed or depending on how you have it. Set your amateur. I s O. You also have buttons for things like your I s O. And some display options up here will go more into death later on. No, On the back of the camera, there are a lot of buttons. So we saw that you have the playback, but in here we have the live preview mode up there, which also duplicates as the record mode. If you're in the video mode, you also have the menu button and info buttons up here. So if you your camera is on and you turn on the menu, you can go from menu to sort of a display mode with your settings. The info button will shuttle through some different display options, So if you press it once, you have the sort of level press it again. You have your settings options there, and just to show you if I scroll through this with this style at the top, it's scrolling through one of the settings, which is the shutter speed. We'll talk more about that in a future lesson. On the right hand side, you have a bunch of different buttons that affect the picture quality and styles. Now I'm in manual mode. Sometimes these buttons won't do anything. If you are in more of a an auto mode, for example, this W but be button is for white balance, and that affects the color of your photos. The right Bunin F is the auto focus mode, which actually changes how auto focus is set. This button on the left is the drive mode, which allows you to take burst photos such as like multiple photos at once. Or you can do like things like a timer through that option. And then the button at the bottom is picture style, which also effects the colors and contrast, or the brightness and darkness of your photos. So, as you can see, there's a lot of stuff that's very advanced when we start getting into these buttons and we'll go over those in future lessons. We saw the review button down here that switches from the actual shooting mode to reviewing your photos. And then there's this trash, but can buttoned down here that is for the leading your photos. Notice, though. Whenever you go into one of these modes or these options, you can use this sort of plus pad to move to the left or right, and then the set button in the middle is where you actually go and choose that option. And then on the top right of this DSLR there's a couple of buttons. One. It looks like a minus, and one looks like a plus magnifying glass, and this will help you zoom in or out. If you are reviewing your photos and you want to, like, zoom out in or out really quickly to check the focus or if you are in more of a manual focus mode, depending on the focus mode that you're in, you can zoom in while you're actually shooting or doing a live preview. Let me just do a live preview really quick. So if I'm in the live preview mode and I do the plus button, I can actually zoom in and then use my manual focus to adjust. Focus to make sure I'm getting sharp. Focus. I use that option a lot when I'm shooting video when I am using manual focus. Mostly when I'm doing photos, I'm in auto focus, so that won't work. You'll notice, though, that it's not going to work if you're in a specific auto focus mode. And here I am in the life preview mode and you can see lots of different information up on my screen if I shall through the info. But out here in the live view mode, you can see different things pop up. We can see the hissed a gram which is shows the brightness and darkness of our photo. You see a level shows the if your camera actually is level or not. There's one that clears everything when that just shows some settings on the bottom, your main settings and then one with all of your settings. This Q button that we did it cover actually allows you to get into all these different settings, so I'm just going to show you really quick an example of what you can do with this. So if I press the Q button, it opens up all these settings. I can use the plus pad to go through them. Here's the auto focus method. There's a face tracking method on this camera, or there's just different zone. Options will go over how these work in the future, but as an example, if your camera is set up just the standard way with the face tracking and you try to use these plus or minus buttons to zoom in, it's not going to let you so as you're playing around. If you're pressing buttons and you get error messages, it means that that option isn't available, depending on another setting that you're using. That's most likely going to be if you're in the green automatic mode or the P automatic mode or one of these other modes. But again, it might be one of these other settings. But hopefully, by the end of this course, you will know and understand a lot of the different settings and options you have on your canon DSLR and know how to work around them with your manual settings we saw on the right hand side the SD slot. Some DSLR cameras will have actually two SD card slots in this port, and that will generally have options for backing up your photos so that it actually takes the photos to both cards, Which is great if you're doing a more professional shoot, just in case one of your cards gets corrupted, which generally doesn't happen, so you don't really have to worry about that. But that can happen on the top of your camera on the right and left hand side. This is actually where you would put your camera strap Great if you're out traveling, I have it off just so it's a little easier to see everything on the left hand side of the camera. There are some additional ports, so this is also going to look different on different DSL ours, but the ports are generally going to be similar. So this little door opens up and you have a USB or a mini USB port and in many HD in my port as well the U. S. B port. You can't charge your camera through this, but you can plug it into a computer and transfer photos. That way, the HTM aiport is if you want to display photos or things like that onto a TV screen. But generally you wouldn't be doing that from your camera. I would have never used the HD. My out on my little DSLR is like this, but it's an option. This little port right here has a couple cool things. One is a microphone jack, so you can actually plug in a better microphone if you're shooting video. Every DSLR has an internal microphone, but generally that's not going to be that good of quality. So if you are shooting video, I definitely recommend getting a an external microphone. We'll go over that in the accessories section or lesson of this class, and then this other poor is for the remote trigger. So this is cool. If you are doing portrait's, or if you're doing long exposure photography, where you plug in a remote trigger, you don't have to be touching the buttons on the camera itself. You can just press the remote trigger to take your photos really cool option there. Then, on the bottom of the camera, we saw the battery door. But there's also the screw hole where you plug in. You can attach it to a tripod or a tripod head, and that's pretty much all I want to cover in this lesson. I know where there's a lot of stuff that we didn't cover in depth that's coming up in the next section of the course, but by now I hope you feel a little bit more confident knowing your way around your camera . We'll see in the next lesson 5. Introduction to Exposure: Welcome to this new section of the course in this section. We're going to cover a lot of the more advanced options and settings you have with really any canon DSLR in the next few lessons, we actually go pretty advanced. Talking about the main settings. You have to control your exposure aperture shutter speed in I s. So we cover how you manually adjust those things with your camera, and we're really just jumping right into some manual options, which can get a little advanced. So if those things are a little bit too scary for you right now, or if you start watching those videos and realize they are too advanced for where you're at right now as a photographer, go ahead and skip them. Jump down to the lesson on focusing after the exposure triangle, which is probably the next lesson I would recommend, which is a very important skill toe have as a photographer, which covers how you can adjust what you're focusing on, both manually and automatically. But I did just want to include this as a little warning in case things do get a little bit too advanced too quickly. I do try to break those concepts down in the next lessons for beginners. But some people might not even want to use the manual settings on the camera, and that's completely fine. So if you want to continue with those lessons, we'll see in the next one. Otherwise, we'll see you in the future. Lesson on focusing. 6. How to Read & Adjust Exposure with Your Camera: in this lesson, I'm going to show you how to read and adjust exposure with your camera. I'm going to go over some of the basics, like what? Exposure is what apter I eso and shutter speed are and how they have control exposure. But if you are completely new to photography and you want a more in depth course on how cameras actually work and all kinds of things, I definitely recommend checking out the photography masterclass as well, which is a great companion class with this course. This course, to be honest, is supposed to be a how to guide to using your camera, and you should already know some of those basics. But of course I want to go over them in this class. But if I go over them a little bit too quickly, that's because we have the other photography masterclass, which goes over them in more depth, in a better way, with more visuals and things like that that I think you should check out. So anyways, before we get started, there's a couple things I want you to do if you are using a cannon. T. Seven. I were a newer canon DSLR because the menus and the displays are set up a little bit differently than a traditional canon DSLR. So first I'm going to turn it on, like so. I also have my mode in manual mode, which will give us more options and really see how we can use our manual settings. We'll go over some of these other options and future lessons. Now, if I look at my back screen, you'll notice that it might look a little different than yours. It's a very basic what they call guided way. I'm going to actually change that to the traditional canon menu. So if I press the menu button in the top left and if you go to the very far right, so this one which says, Display, let level settings I'm gonna press. OK, go into that menu and you'll see that the shooting screen and the menu display are unguided mood. I'm gonna change that to the in the standard mo. So go in there, press set, go down to Standard and then saying with many display going there, set it to standard, and that will change the way that it looks like on the back of your screen, and this is most likely what you are going to see if you are using any canon DSLR Now, if I press the shutter button just a little bit, it actually kind of engages the camera and you can see our settings at the top. We have the M for manual mode. We have 1/60 which is a fraction, which is our shutter speed. We have F 5.6, which refers to the aperture, and then the eso is auto, and these are the main exposure options We have the way that we can adjust our camera settings to expose properly. So remember exposure is how bright or dark your image is, and we have those three options within the camera to make those adjustments. So going through them, let's go and start with shutter speed. So pressing the info button or the shutter button half way, we can see if I adjust the dial at the top, this one right here that's automatically going to be adjusting our shutter speed. So if I go all the way to the left, you can see that it actually starts to rep show as 10 and then it's got like the quote station, which is seconds, so this would be a six second shutter. Five second, 4321 And then we get into the fractions. And that's actually how long the shutter is open, letting in light into the camera. So the way a DSLR works is you press the shutter release button. The mirror that's in your camera flips up the mirror is what actually allows you to see what you're looking at through your viewfinder. The mere flips up. The late actually hits the sensor, the digital sensor of your camera, which is inside behind the mirror. And depending on your shutter speed, it's letting that light hit it for a certain amount of time. So, for example, it's gonna let it hit for 11 25th of a second, which is very, very short. But depending on how much light is, that might be as fast or as slow as you need it to expose properly. Now, on this camera, I can go as fast as 1 4/1000 of a second. That's that's really, really quick. So if I take a photo like that, it's going to be pretty dark. You can barely see what I saw. Now, while I'm scrolling through this dial, I noticed that my eyes so is also changing. And that's because it's on auto. I want to change my i s o to a manual mode. So on the top of my grip, there's this I s O but I'm going to press that. Then I'm just going to change it from I s o auto to let's just start with 200 generally the lowest lower the eyes, so the better. All right. There's one other thing I want you to look at as we're going through these settings. That's this exposure meter down here, see where says negative three and then has the scale upto plus three. This is our exposure meter. Now, if I press the shutter button halfway down and then I scroll through my settings, you can see a little dot at the bottom of this meter. Now, what that is saying is how bright or dark our image is going to be, so that before you even take a photo, you have a sense of how exposed it's going to be if it's to the right of the zero. If it's a positive number, then it means it's going to be even. It's going to be really bright. And if it's passed three, you can see that changes to a little triangle, pointing to the right, which just kind of tells you. Okay, it's way, way over, exposed. So you know. Okay, we need to make it darker now, understanding a little bit about how the shutter speed works. What do you think? If a shutter is longer, do you think it's going to be brighter or darker? It's gonna be brighter because you're letting in more light. So if it's too bright, we need to have a faster shutter speed to make it darker. Right? So that's press the shutter release button halfway again. We are going to make it around 1/30 of a second, so it's right in the middle. So let me take a picture like that. You got a quick display of what it looked like, and that was well exposed. Now, if I take one where it's at, negative three is going to be dark right now. If I take it positive three. It's going to be bright. The one of the thing you want to be aware of is that if you're shutter speed is too slow, it literally is actually capturing light for a long period of time. So if you have any sort of shake of the camera or little tiny motion, your image is going to end up looking blurry because it's capturing a photo while your hand is actually moving. So you have to be aware of that. So that's a shutter speed and the basics of how you can read your exposure before you take a photo with the exposure meter. Now notice, though on this camera, you Onley can see that little preview dot of where it's exposed. After I pressed the shutter release button halfway down, another cool trick for using that half press is to focus your camera. So if you are in an auto focus mode and I want toe focus on Let's Go actually to our live previews, let's go open like this. If I want to check my focus before I take a photo, I can actually have press that button and down, and now I'm focused on the screwdriver. This camera does a pretty good job at choosing what is the subject to focus on. Now. If I move it up, focus on the background and I pressed the shutter halfway and go back to the screwdriver. You can see that it's out of focus, so half pressing allows us to focus it and also preview where we are at on the exposure dial, which you can see here on the bottom of the screen as well. It's a little bit harder on this view to see it in that camera, but you also get a live preview of how dark or bright your images. So this is a good way to kind of see thank you three. Very dark, positive. Three. Very bright. Generally, you want to stay right in between negative one and positive one. Of course, you can get creative with this, and this is there's no real rules and photography that you aren't allowed to break when you're trying to be creative, so sometimes you might want your photo to be overexposed or under exposed. All right, we covered a lot in this lesson, but hopefully now you know how to use the style to adjust your shutter speed and also how to read the exposure. Dile eso you know, if your photo isn't exposed or not, in the next couple of lessons will look at those other manual options aperture and I s O to see how those affect our exposure as well and how we change them on your camera. 7. Adjusting the Aperture: in this video, we're going to see how you can manually adjust the aperture with your canon DSLR Now brief review of what an aperture is. If you don't know, the aperture is the opening inside of your lens, so inside each of your lenses, you actually have a hole that opens up. Generally, every lens can open up or close down. When it's wide open. Mawr light passes through When it's closed down, less light passes through. So if you want to use your aperture to make your image brighter, what do you think you have to dio? You have to make the hole bigger toe, let more light in. So again, it's just one of the other options we have in our camera to manually expose properly. So let's look at our camera. Let's look at the info so we're still in. We're not in the life preview mode, but if we're looking at this screwdriver over here again, we see this F 5.6. That is our aperture. All actors are represented as F stops, and depending on your lens, you have a scale or a range of F stops that your apter can go open up to or close down to more expensive lenses can actually open up even whiter and let in even more light than a cheaper lens like the one I have on here, which is just a little 24 millimeter pancake lens called pancake lens, because it's very flat. So first, how do we adjust our capture? There's a couple ways to do it. The quickest way is to press this a V button right here and then while we're doing that, actually adjust the same dial that we used to adjust the shutter speed. So here I could go through this and you can see going down F 2.8 all the way up the F stop scale up to F 22. Now the confusing thing about F stops is how the numbers correlate with the actual size of the hole. So if we go down to F 2.8, this is actually where the hole is largest and let's in most the most amount of light. If we go up to F 22 that's where the hole is actually the smallest and let's and the least amount of light. Another way to adjust this with this camera is with the touch screen. So on the canon t seven I and some other DS largely compress the Q button and then just press on the option you want to change for use the plus pad over here press set to go into it, and then you can scroll or just use the plus pad to adjust that setting. Or you can literally just go around, press the button and then use the dial to look to adjust it. As you can see, though, that's a few extra steps than just simply holding down the A V button and then sky scrolling with the dial. So I think that's the best way to do it. Some DSL ours will actually have multiple dials. So not on Lee the shutter speed dial, which is up here but a dow on the back of the grip there that can adjust the aperture as well. All right, so now let's go into our live view mode so we can see what this is actually doing. So remember what I talked about in the last lesson about how if your shutter speed is too slow, you can get a little camera shake and your photos end up being blurry. As a general rule of thumb, I would recommend, if you're shooting hand held that you don't go below 1/60 of a second or even 1/80. Now. Notice, though, in this view in the live you that we don't see the fraction that we saw on the back of the menu. If we're not in live, you see houses 1/80. But if we're in the live view mode, it just shows 80. That might be how you see it on the back of your camera as well. You won't see the fraction. So just know, though, that that's the shutter speed. And it's actually a fraction of that 1/80 knowing that our shutter speed if we're shooting hand held, should be 1/80 or faster. See how dark it is. It's too dark. Luckily, we have those other settings, the eso and the aperture to manually expose properly. So let's go into our rapture. Here. We can just click the button down there and scroll up or down to a more wide open aperture . Now, depending on your camera, though, you're not going to be able to see the little preview of your exposure down here on the meter when you are adjusting the aperture, so you kind of have to just eye ball it. And then if you go back into your preview, press the shutter speed halfway down, then you'll see if it's exposed properly. But just by eyeballing it with the T seven, I, I can see that I want to be at, like an F 2.8. Now I go back and I see that it's just over our middles mark on our exposure meter. Now, if I want to get it right on the middle, we might just go to our A V mode and drop it down to F 3.2 right there. So if I take this photo, it looks like it's perfectly exposed right in the middle of our meter. One other thing I wanted to mention is it might be easier to see this and adjust these settings when you're not in the live you but when you're using the actual viewfinder. So if you have pressed the shutter when you're looking through the viewfinder, you'll probably notice the exposure meter plus your settings so right now on the back of my camera, I'm at 1 1/100 of a second F 2.8 and s 0 200 Looking through this on the bottom, I can see those numbers. And here I can see the exposure meter actually going through whether I adjust the shutter speed or if I adjust the aperture Now I'm pressing the A B button and adjusting the Dow here and here within the view finder. I can actually see the preview of what that looks like. So what's great about canon cameras is that you can really see that exposure meter both in the live preview mode or on the back of the screen, or if you're looking through the viewfinder. So that's how you adjust your aperture manually and also how that affects exposure. Hopefully, this makes sense again. If this is confusing to you, the whole photography masterclass is there for you to understand these settings even further. And that class paired with this one. Hopefully Now you understand how to use your canon camera to adjust those settings. All right, In the next lesson, we're gonna be looking at I s O 8. Adjusting the ISO: the last setting that helps us manually expose is our eyes. So think of the isso as the sensitivity of your sensor. The higher the S O, the more sensitive it is meaning the brighter your image is going to be the lower your eyes , so the last sensitive and the darker it's going to be. So we have the isso button right here if we click that once, we have our eyes. So menu, we already saw this. We went from auto to 200. But we can also go higher. So this is kind of the last option that I like to use to adjust exposure manually. I generally like to have it the lowest possible. So I so 100 in any sort of situation. But depending on your lens, depending on the lighting, depending on your shutter speed and aperture options, you might have to increase the isso just to expose properly. So here were Let's just go. As an example, we change our shutter speed to 1/80 of a second. We also changed our F stop two F 2.8. It's still a little bit under exposed just the left of the zero now that's probably fine. It's going to look fine, But if we wanted it to be a little bit brighter, the last option we have is the I. So So that's where we can press the I s o but and we compress the Q button. We can go there and we can adjust here. And that's the eso speed. Let's go up to 200 now we can see that we're a little bit overexposed or above the zero. And maybe that's the style you want with this photo. Now let's go through one more time and see what if we adjust it even higher. Let's go up to 3200. Now we're way over exposed so they taken image way too bright, so that's obviously not what we want to do. But I just want to show you now. If you go back to 100 take a picture that is definitely exposed. Even better, So that's how you adjust your eyes so and what it does when you adjust it. But why do we want it to be as low as possible? In general, with most cameras? If you increase the eso, you start to get a little bit of digital noise or digital grain in your image. You'll see that if you go out and take a picture somewhere where it's a little bit dark and you increase your eyes so up past 1600 or 3200 with most basic DSL, ours like the cannon t seven I. And that's because it's really just digitally enhancing the image to make it brighter. Unlike the shutter speed or the aperture, which is a physical way to let mawr or less light in the Esso is just a digital way of doing it. And if you're somewhere where it's pitch black really dark outside. But that night and you're just shooting with the light of the moon or the stars, there really isn't going to be a lot of options for making your image brighter with the shutter speed or aperture. And so the ISO might be the only option. But depending on your camera, you can Onley go. So far, Yes, the isso on this camera can go up past 1600 or 3200 but what I want to use that I s o. Probably not, because with a lot of basic Disa Lars. It just doesn't look that good with more advanced DSLR zor mira list cameras. You actually can shoot at a very high I S O and you still get a clean image without a lot of digital noise or grain. But you'll just have to do some tests with your own camera to see how far you can push your eyes so before it gets too grainy now, we talked about the ways you can adjust the exposure internally in your camera, but there's a major other factor that determines how bright your images, and that's how much light there is in your scene. So, of course, we can do things in our scene to add more light, like using a flash, adding, turning on more lights, opening a window and things like that, which is the other way to adjust your exposure. In the next lesson, I briefly want to talk about putting all of these settings together and the exposure triangle 9. The Exposure Triangle: So now we've gone over those basic settings Aperture, shutter speed, I s Oh, and you might still have a lot of questions. When should you change shutter speed? When should you change aperture? There were a couple basic rules of thumb that I mentioned in the previous lessons. Like your shutter speed shouldn't go slower than 1/60 or 1/80 of a second. If your handheld as you get better with taking photos, you might be able to slow it down if you're really steady your eyes. So I mentioned in the last lesson shouldn't go above 1600 or 3200 of course, depending on your camera. But in general, you want to keep it as low as possible. Now, I did talk about the aperture that much, but the aperture affects more than just how much light is let in your camera or not. It also affects the depth of field or how much is in focus. So imagine you're taking a photo from over here. We've got our camera over here. Your subject is over here with a wide open aperture, meaning the whole is very open, wide meeting the F stop is small the number. Remember, the F 2.8 is a wider, open aperture than the F 22. With that wide open aperture, your depth of field or basically the plane of focus, what is in focus in your image is very narrow. So that's how you get an image with a very blurry background. You open up your aperture as wide as possible to get less and focus if you want more and focus. If you're shooting landscapes, for example, and you want everything from the trees that are 10 feet away from you to the waterfall that's 200 feet away from you. If you want all that and focus, you need a deeper depth of field, and that's where you would use a higher F stop, meaning it closed down aperture. So that's the creative way of using your aperture to adjust how your photos actually look. Putting this all together, we have the Exposure triangle, which is having the three manual settings shutter speed, aperture and I S O and how you balance it. Most of this just takes practice in getting out there and experimenting. Sometimes you're going to want to have that wide open aperture with the blurry background. But if it's too bright, then you're going to have to use other settings, like your I S O R shutter speed to make it darker. Sometimes you're going to be photographing something that's moving really fast, like someone running or a car driving by. And you want your shutter speed to be very quick, because if it's too slow, it's actually going to create motion. Blur in your camera as that object is moving past your frame. So if your shutter speed is really, really quick, meaning less light is going to enter the camera because of that quick shutter speed, you'll then have to use your other options, like aperture where I so to increase the exposure or to make it brighter. Now I know this can be confusing, but like I said, the best thing to do is just get out there and practice adjuster setting. See what happens if you have questions on what settings you should be using in a particular location or setting. Let us know posted question to the course. Joined the photography and friends Facebook group posted question there, and other students or instructors will help you out. Thank you so much for watching this lesson. I hope it helps, and we'll see in the next one. 10. Focusing: on your canon DSLR. There's multiple ways to adjust your focus manually and also automatically. So in general, if you are, you have your camera and you're just taking a photo your cameras going to do a pretty good job at choosing this subject that you want to be in focus as we saw before. If you press the shutter speed halfway down, you can see that it focuses on Are subject, or what it thinks are. Subject is so in this example, it focuses on the camera cap that's in front of the camera, but say I wanted to actually focus on the screwdriver behind it. How do we do that? Well, one is to switch over toe manual focus mode, adjust our focus to the background and just use the dial on the front of our camera lens to manually adjust our focus. But there is a better way to do this That will guarantee your focus is even sharper because , like I've said before, with most modern cameras and lenses, the auto focus is really, really good. So what we can literally do with this DSLR is just touch on the back of the screen where we want the focus to be so. See, if I go from the left or right, you can see this little box that appears on the screen and the focus address. Now we can even take a picture like this. There's this little button down here on the bottom left of the screen that turns on touch shutter. So when we touch that lens cap, it goes and takes a photo. If we touch the screwdriver in the back, it takes the photo. But if we just wanted to be able to focus, and then we can take the photo ourself with the shutter speed, we can do it that way. Another way to do it is to just manually move where the square is and then set the focus that way. So if you don't see that square, press the little sat button in the middle of the dial and then used the plus pad to move the square around. And then when you want, when it's over, what you want to be in focus half press the shutter release button, and it's going to focus on wherever that square is showing. This is going to look a little bit different on different DSL ours. You might not have to press the set button to actually enable that you might already see a little box that you can move around with a joystick or with a plus pad. So that's how you can choose where to focus and what to focus on with your camera and lens . You can do it with the manual option. You can use it with the touch screen. If you're camera does have the touch screen option, or you can use it by setting that auto focus point to a different part of your screen and then using the shutter release button to lock and focus. That way, there are a couple other options, like autofocus modes like face tracking faces and things like that that will be going over in a future lesson as well. That really helps you doubt in your focus, depending on your situation. Thanks so much for watching and we'll see you in the next lesson. 11. Aperture Priority Mode: in this lesson and the next few lessons. We're going to look at some of the additional shooting modes and exposure modes you have on this dial, and this is going to be very similar on pretty much any canon DSLR. This canon DSLR has the main one we saw earlier, which is the green automatic mode. Everything is going to be completely automatic. We also saw the mode without the flash so completely auto, but it's not going to pop up the flash, and then we also have these other ones M, A, V, T, V and P. We already saw the manual mode in the previous lessons on the exposure triangle. If you skip those lessons, that's okay. But basically, in the manual mode you have complete control of all of your settings. The next mode I want to talk about is the A V mode, which is aperture priority mode. We have aperture priority and shudder private priority, which is TV. So what aperture priority means is that it's going to manually adjust the other settings. So shutter speed and I so But you have control over the aperture. So now you can see on the back of screen that the aperture option has those little orange marks on the left and right that signifies that. That's what the dial will control now. Right now, I'm actually in ESO 100 so I'm not in the manual mode, so I eso is still going to be manually selected unless you're on auto. But basically now, no matter what I choose for my aperture, it's going to try to take a well exposed picture with those setting. So if we review this photo pressing the review button, let's press the info, but and we can see what our settings that were used f 11. That's what I chose. And then it manually said the I Soto 1000 and the shutter speed toe 1/40. So let's try again. Let's change our amateur two F 22 now we can kind of see a preview of what the shutter speed is. Take that now to get a well exposed image. It changed the shutters, be the 1/40 and I so to 3200 Now you might say, OK, 3200 is too high based off of our knowledge of ice. So we talked about earlier that we don't want to go higher on this camera than 800. So let's go ahead and manually adjust our ice. Oh, setting to 800. And now let's go ahead and again. Take the photo and the shutter speed is one thing. I saw that 1/8 of a second, so that's really, really slow, right? So that might be too slow for a lot of different situations. If I'm doing still life or product photography, that might be great doing some night photography architecture that might be fine on a tripod. But if I'm taking a photo of a bicycle racing through the streets, that's gonna be too slow. So that's one of those reasons those examples of how we put together our exposure triangle . And sometimes you have to adjust these settings creatively to get the right shot. So but really, what is aperture priority mode, and why would we use it? Well, aperture priority means we are choosing our apter based off of a creative decision. So we are adjusting the aperture necessarily for exposure, because no matter what we set the aperture to, the other settings are going to affect our exposure were you really using this mode to adjust the depth of field of our photo? Now, if you skip the earlier lesson about the exposure triangle, I would go back to that one where we covered how Apertura affect your depth of field. But basically you're making the decision. Do we want a blurrier background or a sharper background, more depth of field or last up the field? Say, I want that really blue background. I'm shooting a portrait. I'm gonna crank this down toe F 2.8 and now I can take my photo and all the rest of the things are going to be perfectly set. And this is great, because now I don't have to think about manually setting my shutter speed or even my eye. So if I don't care what my eye, so is it? I just wanted to be completely automatic. So if you're shooting an event, a wedding or really in any situation where you just want to be able to quickly adjust for the creative choice of how my depth of field looks than aperture, priority is a great option. And the next lesson we're going to go over a shutter priority 12. Shutter Priority Mode: So the next mode is shutter priority right here. TV. So shutter priority, very similar to after priority will automatically set the other settings based off of what your shutter is. So here we can see on our back screen that the shutter is the one that we're adjusting with our dial, just like how we saw before in the manual setting where the default is that this dial controls are shutter speed. But the difference is that depending on what we said, this the aperture is going to change. So with my shutter speed at F 1/80 it used a F 7.1. If my shutter speed is 1 3/20 the aperture is gonna be F 3.5. Say, for some reason, I want to really slow shutter speed. 1/13. It's going to adjust my aperture to F 20. Now again, this is with my eye, so set 800 manually, you might just have your eye. So on auto mode, which is completely fine if you aren't worried about the digital noise and grain you get with the higher ice. Oh, so when would use shutter priority mode? This is a great option if you're shooting action, sports, things like that where you want to be able to control, how fast your shutter is, and you don't want that to be automatically slowing down where the object that you're shooting, that's that's your capturing is going to be blurry if your shutter is too slow. If you need your shutter speed to be as fast as possible, 1 2/1000 of a second put it on shutter priority mode. Your aperture can adjust your eyes so can adjust. But you need that shutter speed to be fast, so lock that in and the rest will be automated. Personally, I think it's completely fine to use thes automatic modes to help you take better photos and make it easier when you're out shooting so you don't have to worry about all of the other settings. A lot of professionals use automatic modes like these ones. They like having the semi manual options to control your photos creatively with depth of field and amateur, or how sharply you're capturing a moving object with shutter speed. Er, if you do want that motion blur or you are shooting a longer exposure but used these to most aperture and shutter priority to your advantage 13. Program Mode and Exposure Compensation: in this video, we'll go over the next mode, which is the P or program mode. So program mode isn't one. I use that often or necessarily recommend not much. It's very similar to the automatic mode, in the sense that it's going to automatically adjust your shutter speed, your eye so and your aperture, depending on what you're taking a photo of. The main difference, though, and we see here we're on the back of the screen were in P mode is that you can adjust your eyes so to a specific one. So in automatic mode, the A plus green mode everything is automatic. No matter what, you can't change manually set specific settings with P modes. There's a little bit of wiggle room, so if you go into P mode for the first time, it's going to have all these settings just automatic, and it's going to try to make sure that your ice so isas lowest possible. But maybe you're in a situation without a lot of light, and it's going to make your eye so really high, meaning your photos were going to get some grain. If we want to prevent that from happening, we can go in here, press the Q button, go upto I so or we can actually just press the ice oh, button at the top right there and set this manually to say, Let's go 200 which gives us a little bit of room, and now we can take a photo wherever we're at. It's going to keep that I so at 200 then adjust the shutter speed and the amateur accordingly to expose properly. The other thing that program mode has that is actually something that you might use in some other settings is exposure compensation. So this is a fancy term T actually just allow you to make your photos a little bit brighter or darker, depending on your preference. So if we're here and we are, we see the back of our screen and we press the Q button and we go down to the exposure meter. Notice that we have the dot in the middle. If we put this up a little bit, let's say up to two. What's gonna happen is our photos are going to end up being brighter. Now. If we go back and we set that exposure compensation down So now I'm in the actual exposure compensation menu rather than just like the preview of the menu. So pressing. Set. We go into that menu or you can use the dial up here. Now, if we take a photo, it's darker. So why would you use this? Why would you want your photos darker or brighter? Well, exactly that. Maybe you want your photo to be brighter or darker. Or maybe your your composition that you're shooting is a little bit more complicated. Maybe you're shooting a silhouette of someone, or maybe you're shooting a dark scene with a little bit of light. And if your cameras automatically trying to adjust exposure, it might not do so properly to your creative liking. So maybe you just like most of your photos a little bit brighter. Some photographers, especially portrait photographers, engagement for Tarver's wedding for tyros want everything to be a little bit brighter. That's when you would boost the exposure compensation, and that's one of the settings you can change in program mode. You can also adjust the exposure compensation in some of the other automatic modes, not the completely green auto mode, but in the aperture priority and the shutter priority modes. I'm an aperture priority right now. A V. We can see that if we go into our Q options and then use the dial over there, we can still adjust the exposure compensation when we're in the aperture priority mode. If we press the A V button or also it has this plus or minus, which signifies the exposure compensation, and then adjust the dial up here that will adjust the exposure compensation a little bit easier than pressing Q and using the plus pad to go into that. So if your camera looks different, look for the little icon that says Plus has a little plus or minus. That's what exposure compensation is. Sometimes even on other cameras. There's little dials on the top, where you can just manually quickly adjust the exposure compensation that way. And just similarly, as in the aperture priority mode, we can do the same and the shutter priority mode. Note, though if you go to the manual mode, that's not going to be an option, because in manual mode you're adjusting all of your settings manually, so it's up to you to use your manual settings. All of them combined to adjust your photo a little bit brighter or darker. But just as a quick recap or refresher. If you're in the apter priority mode, shutter priority mode or the program mode camera's gonna try to get perfect exposure according to its exposure meeting meter. It's gonna try to get that dot right in the middle. But if you want it to be a little brighter or darker, that's where you use exposure compensation. Thanks for watching, and we'll see in the next lesson. 14. Additional Scene and Shooting Modes: and this lesson, we're going to go over the rest of these modes on this camera, so these might be options on your canon. DSLR it? They might not be. So As we go around, let's start from manual and go up to the next one. The cool thing is that if you're looking at the back of your screen, you get a kind of a definition of what he's settings they're gonna be. So if we go to the next one, this is going to be creative filters. So if you press the down button, you can see that this one allows you to create photos with cool little filters. So if we go in the live mode here to impress the Q button and then go into this first option at the top left here, you can set your mode greeny black and white saw focus fisheye effect Water painting effect toe a camera miniature effect HDR HDR Is your art bold these air different HDR modes? All right, what I ever used these creative filter modes myself. No, because I'm going to do most of my editing after the fact, and I can use my editing application on my computer to turn my photo into any of these sort of filtered looks. That being said, if you want to play around with them and get creative with them and just have everything done in camera, that's there for you to use, So let's take a picture. So when I take a picture, it's greeny, black and white. Let's go in and change it to Let's go back to our live mode Press Q. It's that are filtered to something different. Do fish eye effect? It's going to turn it into some sort of fish eye effect. Now the thing is, a fisheye effect should actually come from a fish eye lens, which is a very extreme white lens. And so this is just digitally distorting it to look that way. And I don't necessarily recommend doing it with the the filters in camera, but it's an option. We're gonna go to our next mode, which is the scene mode, so this gives you some options for special types of scenes, such as group photos, things like that. It's dark outside fireworks, candles. So again, if we going to preview our live mode, then we press our Q button go into this mode. Here we have a group photo Kids Food Night Portrait, handheld night scene, HDR backlight control. So, for example, this one says it takes three consecutive shots, one at a lower exposure, one at a higher exposure, one in the middle. In that way, it come when you combine them. It creates a well exposed for overall. So with each of these modes, it's just kind of going Teoh manually adjust the settings to make sure it looks good for these these types of scenes. For example, with the kids photo shot, this mode probably has a limit on how slow the shutter speed can be, so that if you're taking photos of a kid, they're not going to be blurry with a lower share speed with group photo, this is going to use a little bit of a deeper depth of field. So a smaller aperture or a higher have stop so that it has a deep enough depth of field, so that if there's a lot of it from people in a photo, everyone's and focus with the food mode. It's going to make your colors a little bit more vibrant. The night portrait mode looks like it's going to use the flash so that the person in the foreground is exposed well, along with the background and so on and so forth. So that's the scene modes option again similar to the creative filters. I don't use these modes myself that often, but if you're just getting started out and you're in a particular like scenario, try using one of these to see if it helps you out. The next one is the sports Moz. If I goto the icon of the guy running or the girl running, this mode is going. Teoh do things like try to track objects. So it's going to change your your up auto focus modes to tracking moving objects rather than just picking one Focus something we haven't really covered yet in this class are those different types of focus modes. It's also going to allow continuous shooting, so if you hold down the shutter speed or the shutter button, it's going to take multiple photos at once. The next mode is going to be close up mode, so this is like kind of like a macro mode. This one allows you to have more of a macro effect where you can take photos of something very close up. So if you're taking something a photo of something really small, detailed, I would go to that mode. We've got landscape mode, so this is going to make your photos a little bit sharper and clearer and boost the colors like the blues and greens to make sure those landscapes look good. And then, lastly, we've got portrait mode, so portrait Mode is going to have a blurrier background. So it's going to do things like keeping your aperture wide open. Ah, smaller F stop so that you get a blurry background. It's gonna soften things like hair and skin. And when I say these things like softening skin making landscapes sharper, it actually is literally processing your image differently so internally it can do things like that. It can make your image a little bit sharper. It can make your image a little bit softer, which makes portrait's look even better. It could make colors more saturated or less saturated, so that's what's happening in each of these different modes. It's just trying to do it for you, and I would say the portrait mode, the sports mode, the landscape mode, these air ones that hey, I would check out myself if I were getting started and used those modes. Personally. I used mostly managed manual aperture priority and shutter priority, but it's cool that there's options there for you. The last option is this. See a, which is the creative auto. So again, this is an auto setting, but it adjust the color of your images. So if we go into our live view, so to get to this setting, you go into your cue settings. And then it's this one over here on the right hand side, and this is where you can change it to like a soft, warm, intense, cool look. This is really just adjusting things like your white balance, which is how yellow or blue or warm or cool your images and things like saturation. So going from like black and way too very colorful or less color. They're less saturated colors. So these air again things that I typically do when I am editing my photos after the fact. But if you want to do them in camera, this is another option for it. So I would say like that create a lot of these things kind of overlap on our similar. The creative auto settings are more just having to do with your colors. Creative filters option are a little bit more intense in terms of adding digital effects and distortion like grain or warping your images to make him look like a fish eye. So these are options that you may or may not have with your DSLR. But like everything, it's just a good thing to play around with it, see what they do, and maybe you'll find it mode that you actually do like and want to use. Thanks so much for watching, and we'll see in the next lesson. 15. Bulb Modes: in this lesson. I want to talk about bulb mode, some DSL. Ours will have a letter B on this little dial, and that's going to be bold mode. The Canon t seven I doesn't have the bull mode option in the dial, but it is an option within the manual setting. So what is bull mode? Basically, bull mode allows you to manually adjust your shutter speed, depending on how long you press the shutter release button down. So it's going to basically stay open as long as you are pressing the shutter button. So let's go into our manual settings. So for in manual mode, and I either just take my dial all the way to the left past 30 seconds, it switches to bull mode. So if you need a shutter that is longer than 30 seconds, you're going to need to use bull mode now just to show you a little bit clear. If I press the Cuban in and then enter this here, you can see another kind of mode or view of this past 30. We go into bulb again. This might just be an option up on your dial, but if I choose this. Now I can literally just open the shutter and then it's counting 234 And of course, that's going to be way too bright for this situation, because there's a lot of light in this room on a four second exposure is gonna be way over exposed. So when would you actually want the bulb setting? Well, there are situations where you want a shutter speed that's longer than 30 seconds if you're doing long exposures during the day or night, if you're using filters called neutral density filters or nd filters for those long exposure photos during the day or again at night, you might need a one minute exposure to have a proper exposure. A lot of the times this will be with your night photography, trying to get star trails or astro photography. You're gonna be using really long exposures, and so that might be a case where you need to manually open and close your shutter speed. Now, one know about that, though, is if you're doing this handheld, you're going to get some camera shake. So you're gonna wanna have this on a tripod and on top of putting it on a tripod you're going to want to have a shutter release cable or a remote that plugs in here that you can manually control it so that even just pressing the button right here on your camera, even if it's on a tripod that can sometimes cause a little bit of shake that you might not want. So that's what bold mode is. And if you see that, be on your camera dial now you know what it is and why you would use it. Thanks so much for watching, and we'll see in the next lesson. 16. Focusing Modes: welcome to this next lesson in this lesson and the following ones were just going to be looking at the rest of the features and basically going button by button on the back of your camera again. This might be different if you're using a different DSLR model, but all of these options should be available to you. Typically, you'll be able to find it just by looking for the icon that is on the back of this camera or, if you can't find it at all, if you go to the Q menu when you are in looking at the back of the screen. If you look at the Q, all of these options are going to be the same on the back menu on this way and kind of just go through them one at a time. So you'll see when I hit a specific but in where it's going to actually appear. So the 1st 1 we're going to do is actually moving back to a focusing option, so we're gonna start over here where it says a F. So if you press that button and you'll notice three options one shot AI focus or AI servo So again, if we press that or if you're just looking at the back menu, you press the Q button and then you go down to this button right there that says one shot and then you scroll through. You can switch through those options now. What are these? So with one shot if you have your camera on auto focus, so these aren't going to really change if you're on manual. Focus. If you're on auto focus and you press the shutter button halfway down and you're looking at your subject, it's going toe lock on that focus. And even if you move the camera, it's going to stick to that focus so you can probably tell if I hold it halfway down that I move it over here. Look down. It's still locked on that focus, and so it's not going to change. And this is good If, for example, you're trying to focus on a subject that's right in the middle of the frame, like I'm focusing on this camera right here. But then you want to reframe and put your subject on the rule of thirds or used some negative space. Change your camera around something like that and it's going to stick and keep that focus right on that point now with the other option. So let's go back to that menu. Let's switch over to ai servo. So ai servo rather than locking focus. If I move my lens, move my camera, looking at something a little bit closer to me for further than me, you can probably hear. Even though I'm holding my shutters down, it's going to change the focus. This is great if you're trying to track moving objects, especially if you are tracking an object, a car, an animal, a person that's coming towards you. I would definitely recommend using the AI servo mode, so this is more of like a continuous auto focus mode. So as I did that, it just kind of move towards me. Now that will also help if you're using more of a burst mode so we'll go cover that in a second in a lesson in the in a couple lessons, and I'll show you how ai servo can help there as well. Now the last option we saw was A I focus. This is cannons way of trying to automatically tell what you're trying to do. I wouldn't recommend using this method. I would just pick one because it's going to try tell, Are you taking photos of a moving object or not? And then it's going to pick one shot or ai servo for you. My rule of thumb is if you're taking portrait's. If you're taking pictures of still life of street photography of anything, that's just kind of you want still and you're capturing still objects, maybe street photography. You might be capturing people moving and and cars and things like that where you want a servo. But if you're doing architecture and things like that, choose one shot so that you can lock your focus down moving objects sports ai servo. And, of course, it's a good idea to just test it out yourself and see what you feel comfortable doing. Sometimes a I servo might work well for you in either situation. Thanks a lot for watching. Next lesson will move on around this dial to the next setting 17. Autofocus Points: all right, I have to apologize because I actually lied. I'm not gonna move around to the next one in this dial because there's an option that I want to cover. That has to do with focus as well. So again, if we look here on our camera, we're actually going to move back to the top display. And there's a button right here that is next to the ice. So button, if we click on that button and we see that it brings up are focusing points menu. We can scroll through here and you can see that we have an option for and we're gonna use the test screen for this one Manual selection manual, Select Zone, Auto Focus Manual, Select Large Zone Auto Focus and then auto selection F. So with the auto selection a f mode, the camera is actually looking at all of the points and trying to figure out what it thinks . You want the subject to be and picking that point. And that point could be in the top right corner of your image. It could be in the bottom left. It could be in the center if you are very particular and you know your subject is gonna be right dead in the center, then that's why you might want to change this to a different mode. You can also get to this mode if you don't have that button on the top, which looks like little square with little points in the middle. You can also go here to this option right here. Auto focus points. You can scroll through them like so. So we have a large zone. We have zone f, and then we have one point. It's easier to see on the menu if we actually look at the menu option right here, or we go into that menu to see what we're actually doing. So when we're in the manual selection, you can see I'm actually scrolling through and it's moving the point up or down. I can use the the keypad or the plus pad over here, or the scroll to move left of right. So if I know that my subject is gonna be perfectly in the centre, I'm gonna set that point right there. Now if I go up and I point and press the shutter button halfway down, you should see that there's only one point that is picking focus, and the camera is only going to focus on what's perfectly in the center of the frame. So if I move over here, well, let me take a picture first. If I move here, it's gonna take a pic focus on the camera. If I move down here, it's going to take a photo of the screwdriver, which is in front of me, and that's what's going to be in focus. Say you like using the rule of thirds, which means basically putting your subject on the third of the frames of a little bit toe left or a little bit to the right. We can set that point to the third somewhere on the third side and or down below, which is technically the rule of thirds. Again, the photography masterclass covers all these things and more depth. And when we said it there, we don't want to press set, because when we suppress that, it goes back to the center. You just want to put it there and then start shooting. Now it's only going to focus on what's on the third, so if your subjects in the middle it's not going to necessarily focus on the center now. The other modes are kind of similar to that in the sense that if we go to our Zona, if you can see that the nine squares in the middle are highlighted, so we can basically pick a larger zone for it to cover. And this might be better than the specific manual point, because if your subject is a little bit bigger or even a little smaller but moving around, you might want it toe have a bigger zone to select. And then there's this even large zone. So this is literally just picking the middle third, the left third or the right third. And so that's going Teoh basically help you again. Focus on something in the middle, on the left, on the right, and again, if you pick this and you bring this up to your eye and you look through, you'll see now in that mode, the large F zone you'll see brackets where this for the zone you have selected. So no, if you have those brackets, then it's only going to focus on something within those brackets. So I think this is a really cool option Ah, for helping you pick focus, especially if you're doing things like a portrait session. And you know what's gonna be in the center of the frame or on the left of the frame? Would I like to do is I like to set it to the manual mode or just zone mode and put it somewhere in the middle. And then if I'm on my if we go back to her F focus, if we choose one shot, then what I can do is I can focus on what's in the center of the frame and then reframe so I could focus on my subject. But if I don't want my subject to be in the center of the frame, all move it over to the left or right and fell beyond the third so you can use these two options together. And that's why I wanted to include these lessons back to back. All right, if you have any other questions Ah, let me know. One quick other thing, though, is if you are in the live preview mode, this kind of gets thrown out the window. You can move this point or this box that's showing up here, up or down. But the zone points mode or picking manual points doesn't work in the live preview mode. So just a note there if you are trying to do it in the live preview mode. All right. Now we're gonna go back around the dial and look at those options in the next videos. 18. Picture Styles: in this lesson, we're moving on to the next option again. We're in manual mode. It's this one on the bottom. It looks like a little ring of little squares, I guess, and it's the picture style mode. You can also get to this option if you press the Q button and you're on this menu and you get up to this a option to the left of white balance. If we go in there, we can see what picture styles are. So if we go through them, you have sort of an auto. You have standard portrait landscape, fine detail, neutral, faithful monochrome, and then you can actually create your own styles. So remember when we saw the dial up here where we had some custom filters and creative felt creative looks? This is kind of similar in the sense it has to do with how your image is actually going to look. Things like sharpness, contrast, saturation tone. If we go into one of these and we press the info button and it gives us more information and you can see these this menu and it has sharpness to skip those three for a second, let's go back down below. We have contrast saturation and color tone. So, for example, the standard look is going to be the standard cannon look that most people come to know with their canon camera. Has a certain type of color, has a certain type of sharpness, contrast and warmth or or tone warmth the coolness. Basically, if we go to the next option, you can see that these numbers start to change. So for 114440 to 2 0 to 2 344 and so with each of these settings, it creates asserted different look. So with portrait, it's gonna be end up being a little bit softer with landscape. It's gonna be a little bit more saturated and sharp. If we go to find detail, it's gonna be even sharper to try to get that fine detail of your taking a picture of something a little bit more intricate or small, and you want that detail neutral will be a little bit less saturated, give you a little bit more room for editing yourself. Faithful monochrome. Those air more stylistic monochrome, for example, is just going to be black and white, or you have these user settings that you can go in and you can actually go in and edit these yourself. Some people, if you go online, have their own presets for the picture styles, and you can kind of go in and copy their styles. I generally leave this option on auto or standard myself, because when you shoot in raw format, which we haven't covered yet, but in terms of the settings for the format of your photos, your taking you have raw and J peg raw is un compressed. J Peg is compressed. There's a little bit of processing done to the JPEG image to compress it, and that actually ends up making the image look a little bit different, a little bit more saturated. A little contrast e compared to the raw image. But I like having the raw, unedited, un compressed image so that I can control all of those things myself. And if you're shooting in a raw format, you can do all of these types of color adjustments, contrast adjustments, sharpness, adjustments, tone adjustments in your editing application. But if you want to do everything in camera, you have these pictures styles that give you that sort of option. If you look up Canon Pictures styles on Google, you'll find great articles that kind of list out what all of these styles look like, when to use them. But it is a little bit of self explanatory. If you go through that menu and again, just play around with it, and that one is one of the options I would probably use before moving up to these creative filters up here. If you want to have specific looks in your camera, thanks so much for watching, and we'll see in the next lesson. 19. Drive Settings: in this lesson, we're moving on to our next setting, which is the drive mode. So this is the little button to the left on the plus sign. Or if it's not there for your camera, it's going to look like a stack of photos or stack of rectangles. You can also get to this option by pressing que when you're on the this display, and it's going to be this one right here. The law A Or if you're using the Q menu right here, if you press Q, it's gonna be this one right here. Um, it's kind of hard to see if it's on a different mode, but if you scroll through it, it's gonna have these options. So the drive mode is basically going to allow you to take multiple photos at once or set a timer. So if I scroll through these, you can see single shooting high speed, continuous, low speed continuous. You have a self timer, so 10 seconds. You also have a two second timer, and then you also have a continuous timer. So this means on this last one is gonna take multiple photos, but with ah pause in between now, the first couple options. There you have the continuous modes, so one is high and one is low. So if I turn this on so let's go back to the 1st 1 So single shooting mode. So this means if I take a photo, if I press the shutter release button down and I'm holding it down, I'm still holding it down. It only takes one photo. If I go to the next option, high speed continuous, you gotta press set to engage. You can see that it's taking multiple images. Low speed continuous is going to be the same thing, but at a lower speed, so you can probably hear that. And then the rest are kind of self explanatory. We've got the timer, the 12th remote or the 12th timer and then the two second timer. And then, like I mentioned, the self timer continuous. This is going to take multiple photos with a pause in between Rate at which your camera takes Photos in these continuous or burst modes is going to be different, depending on your model. The higher end canon DSLR is can shoot faster than lower end ones, and that's why a higher, and model is sometimes better for things like wildlife photography, sports photography. Where you would use this motive continuously capture images with one click of the shutter button. This is great for tracking objects, so this combined with our auto focus mode ai server er, mode. This is great because I could be taking photos. I set myself up to high speed, continuous, and I could be taking photos tracking something like that. And it's also going to be focusing while I hold the shutter button down. If I'm doing continuous mode and something's moving towards me or away from me and the focus needs to change and I'm not on the A F C server mode, I'm just on the one shot mode. Then the focus is going to be off. So that's what the drive mode setting is. If you have questions, let me know otherwise, we'll see you in the next lesson. 20. White Balance: in this lesson, we're going to move up to the white balance option. So here on this plus pad is the WB. But in here, if you're in the queue mode, you'll go up to this button right here, a WB. So if we scroll through these, you see all of our different white melons modes. You got your auto. You have daylight shade, cloudy, tungsten, white fluorescent flash and then a custom option. So first off toe understand white balance. Basically, it is how your camera reads color temperature. Every light source has a temperature to it, and it goes from a warmer to a cooler temperature, meaning a more or in just light to a more blue light. So if you think about a candle, it's going to be a lot warmer and yellow and orange, then something like a fluorescent light or an led light that's a little bit cooler, of course. Now led lights and even fluorescent lights come in different temperatures as well, and you'll see that if you go to the store and you get different temperatures of light bulbs. But this is a pretty easy thing to set up here. If you know you are in a specific setting. For example, if you know you're gonna be out in the daylight or if you're gonna be in the shade or if it's cloudy out and you're looking at your photos and their colors seem a little bit off, you might want to check out and set one of these options manually. Typically, auto white balance is gonna be great. And with most canon DSLR is nowadays, I would just leave it on the white balance mode. The other thing to note, though, to just like in some of the past settings. If you are shooting in raw mode and you're getting the full raw images, you are going to have full capability of adjusting the white balance after the fact while editing so you can change the temperature and have a full resolution file still toe work with. So really, you don't necessarily have to do this in camera because most editing APS have the option to change the color tone or the temperature from warm to cool. It's also an option if you want to have a style to your photo. If you like your photos to be a little warm or a little cool. You can use one of those presets settings. One other know about white balance. There's also an option called white balance shift. So if I press the queue but in you will see that next to the auto white balance option or the white balance option, there's this white balance setting. So here, if you press the set but and you see a grid of colors on the left, it's blue on the right. It's red on the top. It's green on the bottom. It's magenta, so we can actually move using the plus pad. Our point to make our images more blue, green, pink or magenta or red Sometimes, if you're using, is very specific type of light bulb. For example, a flash or a continuous light bulb. If you're doing like portrait sohr head shots, Sometimes those lights give off a very subtle green or magenta hue to it. And so that's where you would go in there and basically compromised by adding a little bit of color to the other side. So this is a very, very sort of advanced way to adjust your white balance to get a very specific color, but I did want to just show that option for you as well. All right. Thank you so much for watching. And we'll see you in the next lesson. 21. Metering Modes: in this lesson, we're going to go over metering modes. This is a more advanced option for how your camera actually exposes to your composition. So on the T seven I there's not a button directly for this. Your DSLR might have one here on this camera. It's next to the autofocus point selection and then the drive setting. So in the between, it looks like a little eyeball kind of. So if we go into there, we can see the different options. For me. Tearing modes you have evaluative, partial spot and center weighted average. So evaluative metering should work pretty much for everyone. And that's the mode that I use all the time. Basically, I usually use that. Then I'll use something like exposure compensation or just my manual settings to make it brighter or darker if I need to. But with evaluative metering, what it's doing is the center of the camera is looking at the entire scene and trying to judge what the right exposure should be. So it's looking at all the corners, the center, the top bottom left right, and then it's making a judgment call itself to expose properly. But say you're in a situation where something like you want a silhouette in the center of the frame. Everything around it is going to be really bright, but the middle of the frame a person, for example, is going to be silhouetted. But there are situations where that evaluative metering isn't going toe work. There might be a situation where you want to focus and make sure the exposure of what's exactly in the center of the frame is right. But the rest of it can be under exposed or over exposed. Say you're taking a portrait of someone outdoors and it's sunset or something behind them, and it's super, super bright. It's gonna be overexposed, but you don't care, because all you care is having the face of your subject exposed properly. That might be a case for using one of the other modes, such as spot me tearing or center weighted average with spot metering. It's going to look at just like a few percentage points of your sensor, like 5% of the sensor of the very middle of your frame, and it's going to expose to that center point. If you use center weighted average is going to look at a little bit bigger area, but still based off of the center of the frame. It's going to basically ignore what's in the corners and then partial metering is an even larger amount of area, but it's again going to ignore some of the corners as well. But if you have really bright lights in the corners or something like that, it's going to ignore those when determining the right exposure. So in general, I would recommend just leaving at evaluative metering. These cameras do a great job automatically doing this nowadays, but if you're ever in a situation where the exposure just seems off, for some reason, this might be one of those reasons and fixes for you. All right, thanks so much for watching this lesson. If you have questions, let me know. Otherwise, we'll see in the next lesson. 22. Photo Formats: RAW vs JPEG: in this lesson, we're going to talk about photo formats. This is something that you can get to on the back screen by pressing the Q button. Is this one in the bottom right hand side? By default, it might be set to this L option. And if you press the set, but you can get all of the options for image quality. So this is quality format. So going through these before I explain what each of them is, it basically allows you to change the size of your photos that you're shooting. So it is thesis eyes in pixels. So how, actually big it is or small? It is then also the format J peg or raw or shooting both raw as we've talked about in the past lessons is the UN compressed photo. It's all the data that this camera will capture. The J Peg option is actually a compressed image that compresses the raw photo internally in the camera, and it spits out a J peg image, which is a smaller file size. But when you go into editing the photo, you won't have as much information to edit with a raw photo. If you're images overexposed or under exposed. If the color balance is really off, you can really make those fixes with the raw photo. Whereas if you use the J pic image, you might not have as much room toe at it. And I urge you to experiment with this. Take a photo of something really dark both in raw and J peg mode. Take it into your photo editor and see how you can actually bring an under exposed photo up and expose it properly with raw photo. But sometimes with the J peg image you can't. Or if you do, it starts to look a little distorted within these formats and the qualities. You have more specific sizes and you can see the actual dimensions, and you also have the number of images, depending on the card that you're using. So my SD card is a 32 gigabyte card, and you can see as I go through these the number of images available, increases or decreases based off of the quality. So here you have L. M and S, and this is basically going to be the size in terms of pixels of your image. L is the largest Emma's medium and s is more of your standard, and this is going to be different depending on the camera. Ah, higher end DSLR with a larger sensor will have a larger file within l m and S. You have two options. One is the high quality J peg. One is thestreet and urge a peg again. The standard J peg is going to compress it even mawr, meaning you lose a little bit of the data. But if you want that smaller file size or if you only have a certain amount of space left on your card and you really need to get a lot of photos, then you might need to compromise and use one of these standard J peg modes rather than the large ones. If I go all the way to the end, you see raw plus L and then raw raw. Plus l is what I personally like to use. This actually takes a photo and saves it both as a raw image annas a J peg image. So what I do with these photos is I save all the J pegs just as backups, and then I keep the raw images, or at least the select raw images, the ones that I know I'm going to edit, and I have the full capability for editing those if you want. You can also just shoot and raw, I guess the downside of just shooting and Raha, though, is if you quickly want it, share photos with friends. If you want to post them to social media without any editing, you're going to have to take them into your computer and compress them yourself to a JPEG format or another format to post. Because most applications or uploading online won't take a raw image because it's weird file type for that application, and it's going to be too big. That's why I like to shoot in Raw and J. Peg because I have the editing option and I have the option to quickly share it with friends and family or on social media. All of these options, or most them, can also be got into in just the main menu settings, and we're gonna be going over the main menu in future lessons in a future section of the course. But I did just want to show you that a lot of these things, for example, If we go to the first page in the menu, you have image quality. So we've gone over in this section. So many of the options on the typical canon DSLR. So we've gone over a lot in this section, from the dials and the settings up on the top to what's on the back menu. There are still a few options, such as flash exposure, compensation, flash setting, some other things that we will go over in a future, more advanced sex section or, unless is related, more to flash and things like that. But in the next section, we're going to jump into the menu. And while a lot of these things that you see on that back Q menu can got B got into just from the back screen, they can also be gone into through the menu system itself. So hopefully by now you feel a lot more comfortable with your canon camera. Of course, if you're using a different model, there might be things moved around or in different places. Or maybe you do have to go through the back menu to get to those options. But on most Canon DSLR is you'll be able to get to all of the settings and things that we covered in this section will be going over even more of the options. Some of the things we skipped in the following sections. After going over the menu in the next one, we'll see you there and I hope you enjoyed this lesson. 23. Navigating the Menu: welcome to a new section of the course in this section we're going to be looking at the menu system will learn how to navigate the menu and look at some of the most important features. There will also be things that we've already covered in the previous lessons, where you can get to those settings via a button or menu option through the back preview screen. And it's something that you can do in the main menu as well. So to get to the menu, all you have to do is press the menu button. Now, if your cannon menu doesn't look like this, we saw earlier in the course that you can switch it from the standard or the guided to the standard menu. So here's what the standard view looks like for the back of the screen. And then also, if we go in menu display, go to guided. This is what the menu is going to look like. I want you to switch it over to the standard option because it's easy to use, and it's what all canon cameras have as an option toe look at. So once you're here, if you click the menu but and basically how you navigate this is you can use the plus pad to go left or right through these tabs, and as you go through these tabs, you can see that there's got kind of like a folder structure at the top. You go through and it changes color, so the first menu, the red is the shoot menu. If you go further, you've got the blue play menu. If you go past that, it's just the basic set up menu. Then you got your menu V view or display level options and then a my menu custom menu set up so you could actually create your own custom menu and put things there where you want to get to them fast. If there's something deep within this menu, you can also use the scroll. Dial up here to quickly go through the menu options as well, in terms of making any address myth. When you go up or down, you can go through the menu options, and then you can press set to go into those options, and then you just can go up and down again to choose an option or, if you want to go back. Just press the menu button to get out of the menu. Just press menu again. So that's how you navigate the menu. I'm gonna stop there so that you can make sure your menu is set up properly to the standard view so we can look at it together. And then, in the next lessons will be looking at each of these tabs and menus to see what important features you need to know. Some of these things are really, really advanced or all just kind of go over them and talk about where they're at. But I'm not going to necessarily explain every single little feature. But if you ever have a question, go back to your camera manual. If you don't have your camera manual anymore, you can download it from Cannons website for free. Just search for your camera model and the manual, and usually the first result on Google will be from Cannons Website, where you could download the manual for free. That being said, we will be going over most of the things, and at least by the end of the section, you'll know where to get two things. If you were wondering, thanks a lot and we'll see in the next lesson 24. The Shooting Menu: in this lesson will be going over the shooting menu. So go to your men. You go to the little icon with the camera itself. Quick note, though. Notice that if you go over to your video mode and you go to the menu, it'll look a little bit different. Your options will be different. So for this lesson, make sure you're in the main camera photo mode before you go into the menu. So in this first tab you'll notice that the first option is image quality. That's where we saw the specific setting for choosing Raw or J. Peg so you can choose this option here as well. Below that you have image review. That is how long the photo shows up after you take a photo. So if you need it to be longer, you can set it there. You also have, ah, release shutter without card. So, for example, your shutter isn't going to release, so it's not actually going to take a picture unless you have a memory card in there. That's kind of a safety feed shirt, so that if you're trying to take photos and you forget you, you didn't put a card in. It's gonna not work. Whereas if you have this off, which maybe you might want first I know some sort of creating a sound effect or something. Um, you might accidentally think you're taking photos when you actually aren't this next option lens aberration. Correction. This is a more advanced option. Some lenses. There it's It has what's called chromatic aberration along the edges of things. Depending on the lighting you might see like a greenish or magenta sort of lying or edge two things. This is something that you can also fix in post production. But if you want the camera to process it and remove some of that aberration automatically, you can set it up here. There's also in in here some options for, like fixing lens distortion. So if you have a very wide lens, sometimes around the edges, things look a little bit distorted. If you're using a cannon lens, it will automatically see that and know which lens you're using and know how to fix that. So if you are using a canon of very white lines, you might want to go in there and turn on that distortion correction by default. The peripheral illumination correction and chromatic aberration are turned on, which is that green or magenta line? These are very advanced things, so I would just leave it as standard for now. This last option lends Elektronik manual focus. And then if you go into this option, that's going to actually enable the focus to change during a one shot mode versus keeping off. But we saw that if you want the focus to change, I would change over to the AI server mode that we saw in the last section. So that's that first tap. Let's go to the 2nd 1 here. The first option you have is exposure compensation. We already saw that earlier in the class when we were in the program mode. So if you missed that, check out the program mode section, but you can get to it here flash control. So, depending on the type of flash you use, here are all the options you need. Teoh, adjust how your flash fires. You've got things like built in flash settings. So, for example, here we go in here, we can change the exposure compensation for a flash. So, for example, if the flashes ending up making everything a little bit too bright. You can change it lower here, right there, and that's going to make the exposure a little bit darker. When you use the flash, you can also at the top just enable or disable the flash itself. And there's lots of more advanced features here for how the flash syncs up to when you take a photo setting up a wireless flash. Things like that going back here. We have red eye reduction. Most cameras do a pretty good job nowadays without getting red eye. But if you're getting red eye, you can find it there and enable it. You also have your I s O speed here, which we saw earlier. You can set from the main menu on the back of the display or the button on the top. The cool thing here that I would definitely recommend is sending your Max Isa auto isso. So say you want to have your eyes so set automatically. This is great if you're using one of the aperture priority or shutter priority modes or even the program mode. But you don't want your flash to go over, say 1600 because you know, if it goes over 1600 you're going to get some digital noise, said it here, and it's just going to max out at 1600 now. This might mean that in some situations based off your lens and all the settings, it just can't get bright enough and it won't expose properly. But at least you know your cameras not going toe automatically. Just boost your I s O to something super high and get that greeny digital, noisy image. Here's another option is called the Auto Lighting optimizer. So if you go in here and then you press the info button, this is sort of a post shot way that your camera adjust your photos. It's going to try to create an even exposure throughout your your photo so you can turn it on high lips high standard. Or though, so what this is actually doing is if you take a picture of someone and the background is really bright or really dark, but you're the subject is well exposed. It's actually going to kind of edit the photo internally so that it boosts the background exposure or darkens it so that it has a more even exposure and depending on how high or low you do it, it's going to do that more or less so. This is kind of a cool option. If you are shooting J Peg images, you're not going to be editing them yourself, and you just want to make sure that things are a little bit more even in exposure. You can also get to this menu, so I am going to expect out of here really quickly. If you press Q on the back menu, you can get to this option here on the back menu right there. It's the auto correct image brightness or auto lighting optimizer, as Cannon calls it. So I just wanted to show you that you can get to it on the back screen as well. All right, back to our menu. Let's go to our next tab. So you have your metering mode. We saw that again. This is something that you can get to on the Q screen. We have color space, So this is something I would just leave, as is, unless you're a professional like designer doing something in a specific color space such as adobe RGB, just leave it as s RGB That's just basically how the camera and the image processes colors . You also have your picture style. We saw that white balance, custom white balance. So here we have our custom white balance setting. So what this does is to use the custom white balance mode, which we actually glossed over in the lesson on white balance. What you need to do is take a photo of something white, pure white, in whatever situation you're in. So typically you have a white card or a white piece of paper that you bring with you. And if I was doing that here, I would take a picture with it right here on my table. Then I would go into the menu setting. I click custom white balance, and then you find the picture that you want to use for that custom white balance. And then you press set, and it's going to use that to create a custom white balance for that specific situation, so that's very advanced. But if you are doing something like food photography, product photography, portrait photography, where you're using your own lights and you want to make sure that the white balance is perfect, the colors look great. That is how you do that. You can also get to the white balance shift from here. We saw that before. Let's move on to the next one. All right, here is in the fourth menu. We have long exposure noise reduction. This is great if you take long exposures. So if you're taking a photo for a long shutter speed, if you're using bold mode to do it for longer than a minute or two minutes doing night for dark for your things like that, typically, if you are taking long exposures because it's take in so much information, you get mawr noise in the photo, so this option will automatically reduce that noise again. It's something that you can do in post production as well or internally in the camera. This next option high I so speed and are this is going to reduce your noise when you use a higher I s O. So this is again internally. It's going toe basically be trying to do that and process it itself in camera. So if you're not going to be editing your photos after the fact, it can do it internally. Now with dust, delete data. This is another advanced option where if your sensor has some dust on it and you'll notice that if you're taking photos and you have a clean lens, you're switching lens, and there's like little dots or speckles. That means your sensor might have dust on it. This is an option for actually taking a photo of a white piece of paper. It sees that it can determine where the dust is based off of a clean white, a white image, and then I'll try toe. Remove that dust internally, and that's something very advanced. I've never used it myself, but it's there if you need that. And then lastly, we have an option for anti flicker shooting. This might be seen if you're shooting under fluorescent lights, like in an office building or a school. You'll really see it. If you are shooting video, you sometimes see like a flicker effect or like bars across your images. If you see that the anti flicker mode, that's where you would go in there and turn that on to try to remove that flickering or make sure that you're taking the photo when it's not flickering aspect ratio and live view shooting, so live you shooting. If that's disabled, you just can't open or turn on the live view mode, the aspect ratio. This changes the actual aspect of your photos. So three by two, that's the standard aspect ratio for any type of photo. But you can change it to like square or 16 by nine or four by three, depending on your needs. If you have a specific reason to be shooting at those aspect ratios, so that's Ah overview of the shooting menu, and we'll move on to the next menu in the next lesson. 25. The Play Menu: in this lesson, we're moving on to the next menu, which is the play menu, so these settings have to do with what happens to your images after you've taken them. So there's options like protecting images where it won't allow you to actually delete the images or format your cart and delete those images based off of If you select a range of images or certain images all images on a card, for example. So that's kind of cool. If you do a really important event and you want to make sure that you don't delete those accidentally, you can rotate images, a race, emit specific images. There's things like printing and setting up photo books, adding creative filters after the fact that you can all do internally cropping re sizing. You can also rate your images. So there's previous options I generally don't use because I added my photos on my computer . It's a lot easier to do, and I would recommend that. But it's here in in your camera, which is which is kind of a cool option rating is one option that I would consider doing, especially if you use an application that can read the rating oven image. So if we go in here, we can select an image. Let's find one of our images that we love. And then we press the set button and we give it a star rating so you can go up to five stars or off, see as I go through there. 12345 And why would we do this? Because when we go back into our computer and we're editing these photos, it will save that data that you added to it through this menu. And you can see that on your computer so that you'll quickly no thes images are my best ones. These ones are okay, so you can kind of create a star's rating system of your own. I would typically use five as my best photos and then go down from there, and that makes it a little bit faster if you once you get into the editing room, especially if you're out traveling or something like that. Generally, this is something I just do on my computer because I can see the full image. I could make sure things are specifically and focus or not. But if you want to do it internally. You can do that in this menu. You could also set up a slide show we talked about actually out putting this through the small HD Meyer, the mini HD my cable to like a TV or something. Generally, you just put on a computer, but you have that option here as well. This next one allows you to a race specific images based off of certain things, like star ratings or if they were at a specific time or date. Things like that, this image jump with the dial option. So this is if you are reviewing your images just in the review menu. So say, I'm looking at my images. Let's look at the info closer, and then I just use the dial. It's going to jump 10 images, but we can change that. Jump to something else. You can do a specific number so you want to jump five images or even more, or you can, uh, change it to not jump but to display. By date, you can only shoot. Choose toe only view videos on leave you protected images display only images that are rated a certain thing, etcetera. And that's just customizing how you use that dial when reviewing your images. This last tab under the play menu gives you the option for displaying the autofocus point on your image. When you're reviewing it, you can also change how the hissed a gram is displayed. We haven't covered what the history ram is yet, but basically it's a scale that shows you how bright or dark your images. You can show the overall brightness. Or you could show the brightness based off of specific colors. RGB and then this last option control over HTM I. If you have it connected to a TV, you can actually control the menu. Uh, and what? Like choosing images and things like that with the remote control of the TV? If it's one that works with this camera, if it's a more modern, smart TV so that the play men you play around with it. It's a lot of options that I wouldn't do myself because I like to do a lot of these things in postproduction on my computer. But it's cool that you have the options internally as well. In the next lesson will be going over the set menu. We'll see you there 26. The Setup Menu: all right, moving to the set up men. You This is there yellow, one that looks like a wrench. This menu has to do a lot with just how your camera is set up to shoot or toe process images. So you can actually create folders here with this menu by selecting folders. And that's what we saw in the last menu with the play menu, where you can actually view specific folders or delete specific folders. You can go out and actually create a folder, for example, for different shoots, so that after the fact when you bring in your photos on your memory card, it actually is saved into specific folders. You can also choose how your photos are numbered. So in general it's just going to start from one and continue to go. As you take more photos, you can also reset it here, or you can go in and choose to reset it. If you wanted to start over from scratch, you could also choose to have your photos auto rotate so your camera can tell if you're taking a photo with the when portrait more with the camera up and down and so it will automatically rotate those images so you don't have to do so in post. Here is a very important thing formatting your card. This is how you delete all the data on a memory card. It's something that is important to do to have a clean card at the start of most shoots or if your car gets full. This is how you delete it. You also have the option for wireless communication settings. We haven't looked at this yet. There is also a button on the back of your your camera, at least on the T seven I. This is how you can connect to your camera with the mobile app so you can do things like reviewing photos, transferring photos and even controlling your camera. This is going to be an option on most new DSL ours. It might not be an option for years. If you are using an older canon DSLR in the next page, you have just more settings. Auto power off. You can change how long it takes for your camera to power off the LCD brightness of the back screen brightness. If you're shooting somewhere where it's really dark out or if it's really bright out, you might have to change this. Here, you can choose to have the LCD turn on or off by the shutter button. This is something I should have been doing while I was recording. This whole class just remains on, or you can set it to the shutter or display button. Just gonna have it on all the time so it doesn't turn off black. You could set your date here. Your language, Your viewfinder display, which has some options for what appears on your display. Such as If you are using the live preview mode, you can turn on a grid, which helps you a line things center or using the rule of thirds or leveling your photo to get your horizons perfectly level and things like that. The next menu has things like your GPS settings so it can actually geo tag your photos. Um, and that again will appear. If you're using an app like light room for editing, there's actually a map mode in light room where you can see where your photos have been taken. You can change the video system and TSC is standard for the United States Palace standard for Europe I'm sorry. I don't know what the standard is for other countries. It's just that I've shot in these two locations, so I know. But, um, you if you're into video, check that out. Depending on where you're shooting, you could also choose Teoh, adjust the touch control. So again, if it's like you're accidentally pressing but ends or if you just want to turn it off, you can disable it or make it less sensitive. You could. You heard that deep right there. If you're focusing ah, and you press the shutter button halfway down, you can turn on or off the beep. Show battery information or not, sensor cleaning. This is something that it actually, whenever you turn off your camera, it does like a quick clean of your sensor. You can manually clean it through this menu, or you can turn off the the actual auto sensor cleaning there. And then this last menu just has just some more information about your camera. Sometimes cameras have firmware updates so you can see the version of this camera right here. You can also find information like where you can find the manual online copyright information. If you want to add copyright information. This is probably a good thing to do. Actually set up your copyright name details, so that if someone does find your files or if you import your files and they get transferred, that data is automatically saved on the files themselves. You could also clear all the settings. If you made a bunch of changes you were selling your camera, you want to reset it, toe how it was, You can set it there. All right, so that's the set up men. You There are things internally. If you go into each of those sub menus or things that I glossed over that if you want to find out more information, definitely check out your manual. But hopefully I went over some of the main ones there that you might be interested in. And the next lesson will be going over how you can set up your custom menu and we'll see you there. 27. Creating a Custom Menu: the last man you were going to go over is the my menu set up. So this is actually where you can set up a menu with your favorite features. You can actually put basically any of the options that we saw in the previous lessons into a specific tab to make it easy to access. And that way you can take it from either the settings menu or the shooting menu and put it in one place for quick access. So to do that, just go to the Green Star tab. That's what it is on this DSLR some older DSL. Ours won't have this my menu option. So if you go here and then you just click add my tab, we're going to click add tab, and then we're going to say configure, Once you get there, you can select items to register meaning which items you want to add to this menu. So we're gonna click, OK, and then it just basically has a list of all the items in the main menu. So if we go down here, say, let's go, maybe you want to easily have the grid display option on, Okay, we're gonna add that maybe we want to have. Let's go. Ad format card format card on there. Now, if we go back to our menu, we have these options right here. So we go back, we're shooting. Then we go to our menu. There. We have it right here. The reason why the grid displays turned off is because we're not shooting with the live view mode. If we're on live you, then we go to the menu. Now we can turn on the grid, and here you can see what that looks like, actually, so it's kind of hard to see, but you see a grid on here, which helps you. So here we go and we can quickly format are card. And that's a Z Z is that we can go back to configure. We can delete selected items, delete all the items on a tablet, the tab itself at a new tab, rename the tab, all kinds of stuff just to customize that menu. All right, so I hope you've enjoyed these lessons on the menu system. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. I also encourage you to check out your canon manual into a quick Google search. If there's something that we didn't cover fully enough, I didn't want to make these lessons too long an intricate because we could dive into every single menu option. But for many students, that wouldn't be very practical. So if there is something that you're wondering about, of course you can ask us a question. But there's also Google or your man cannon camera manual to help you out. Thanks so much. I can't wait to see you in the next lesson, and I hope by now you're feeling even more confident using your camera. 28. Introduction to this Section: welcome to this new section of the course in this section. We're just going to go over some of the more advanced settings and options that are available on a typical canon DSLR things such as the WiFi settings, other things like the Diop ter. Just little things that were a little bit too detailed for before. But I figured that if you really want to know your camera, you got to know this stuff, too. So let's get going and have some fun seeing the next lesson. 29. Wifi Settings: in this lesson, we're going to learn how to connect to a smartphone device via your camera, which allows you to transfer image directly to your phone or even control your camera. Now this is available for most of the DSLR. If it's not, then you won't have the WiFi setting option in your menu or the WiFi button right here. So if you have turned on your camera, the first thing you want to do actually before you even play with your camera is download the cannon app. So it's called the Cannon Connect app, and it should be available both for IOS devices or Android devices. If you download it and open it up, there's this easy connection guide. That kind of walks you through how to connect your camera. I've used this app for my other canon camera before, and we're going to connect a new camera, so we're just going to click connect another camera. It's going to ask us what type of camera it is, so we're gonna type in this camera model, which is the T seven I. We see it here. We're going to choose that and click OK, is this your camera us rebel t seven. I Yes. Make sure you're choosing your camera, though. We're going to say we're gonna connect to be a WiFi. Now we're gonna go to our camera. Now, there's two ways to get to the WiFi menu wanted just through the menu option under the settings on page one, wireless communication settings or just this button right here on the back of the camera. Once we get here, we can just click WiFi settings, go into the WiFi menu and enable it. Okay, Now we're going to go next. After we've said we've turned WiFi settings on, which is these few steps right here. WiFi settings enable enable. Now, we're gonna go back to our WiFi settings or communications settings menu and go down to WiFi function. Now, if you don't see this menu, you might see something that looks like this, which is the options for what you want to choose. We're gonna choose connect to smartphone, press, enter or set. So that's these steps. And then we're going to register a new device. And then it's that ass Install camera connect on the smartphone display, Q R code for download site. We're just gonna click do not display and we're going to connect manually. So now we're going to It shows us that it's actually sending out a WiFi signal. So we're gonna go back into our phone settings and connect to the canon WiFi, which is right here and now. We have to plug in this password, which is gonna be new every time, basically, when you're setting up anyways. But click join and once it's connected will go back to the canon Connect app. So now that it's seeing that it's connected we see on our phone, this is connect to this smartphone. We're gonna click, OK, connection established. Then we're gonna click start on our phone. So now what we can do is we can see the images on this camera. So these air some images from the past weekend that I shot Easter egg hunting first Easter with the boys, or we can even go live with remote shooting, so I couldn't take my phone. Now I can control it from here. I've used this option when shooting group photos of my family when I put up my camera on a tripod and then we go back and I just used the remote toe. Actually, take the photos. You can also switch over to video mode. If you want, you can get into your settings for the camera itself. Down here. Got your life display different settings over here. If you click that little arrow, you get all of your information down here like your shutter speed, your aperture exposure, compensation. I s O. And then you can go in here and you can actually edit all of these things right within the app itself and again, back in the images menu, we can go to our our photos themselves and then at the bottom, you can see you can find information star rating, download it to our phone itself. And that's an easy way to get photos quickly from your camera to your phone, for sharing online or on social media. This little button share or it depends on what APS you have you could print from there. You can trash this photo. You could do whatever you want from this menu. So now let's just close down this app. And let's also go ahead and turn off our wife our camera. Then if we turn back our camera back on and go to our WiFi setting. It should be a lot easier this time to set up our phone, so we're just gonna connect to the can and WiFi were connected. We're gonna go open our can and connect app. Once it's established, it will show us our menu for choosing what we want to do. Take photos or just view photos. So that's the WiFi feature on a typical canon DSLR. Most of the brand new DSL. Ours will have a Bluetooth option, which is very similar. The connections a little bit quicker and easier to use. And you saw that when we were setting up in the WiFi settings or in the canon, Connect up asked us if it was a WiFi connection or a Bluetooth setting. So feel free to just used the Bluetooth option. If you have that available, thanks so much for watching and we'll see you in the next lesson. 30. The Diopter: in this lesson, I just want to mention really quickly the Diop ter. The Diop ter is this little dial next to the viewfinder. This controls the focus of the viewfinder, which is great if you are a little nearsighted farsighted. If you wear glasses, you can actually adjust this. So if you are using glasses and you don't want to wear, the glasses were looking through the viewfinder. You can actually adjust this to your eye so that it's in focus. So if you ever take a picture and you're looking through the viewfinder and it looks blurry , but when you take the photo, it's perfectly sharp or if it's focusing, it says it's auto focusing, but it still looks blurry. It might just be the Diop ter that is off, and really all you do is just click this scroll, the style left or right, and then looked through the View finder to see when it's in focus. Where you want to do to set it is turn on your auto focus, go somewhere where you know that it's going to be, well, it and easy to auto focus. So not somewhere that it's dark out. You might want to look at the live preview, but at the back of the screen. So let's just walk through this really quickly. What I would do is get something that I know should be easy for it to focus. Go open live preview. Focus on that. Just by pressing the shutter halfway down, we're gonna turn off our live preview, look through the viewfinder and then focus it with the Diop ter. If it's out of focus, it should be in focus. But if the dieters off, that's what the reason would be. We know that the image is gonna be in focus because we just set the perfect focus with our auto focus. And so the only thing left to do is adjust that die after Thanks so much for watching, and we'll see it in the next lesson. 31. Using the Camera Flash: in this lesson, we're going to be looking at the internal flash option specifically the exposure compensation for the flash, which is something that if you are using the internal flash or any flash, it's really important to use your settings wisely so that you're not getting that super blown out image of flashes being blasted into your subject's face. That's why we recommend using an external flash, which will cover in the accessories section of the course. But since this is more of an internal option of the camera, and if you don't have ah, that accessory, I wanted to show it to you in this section. So we've got my friend Bill here. He's going to be helping us out as our model today. So typically, if I just him on complete auto Moen, we're gonna turn on auto. I'm gonna take my camera. We're gonna see it might not even need a flash right now. I'm just gonna take up self portrait of our friend Bill, so no flashes needed. But maybe just for stylistic purposes, I want my flash to be on. So actually, we gotta turn on Tau P or program mode, where I have control over if flashes used or not, and I'm gonna pop that open. And now take a flash photo. Now, this photo is, as you can see on the screen is super super bright. So what we're going to do is we're gonna go into our menu and adjust our flash setting. So if you go into our main menu under the second column on the second page of on the t seven I it might be somewhere different on your if you go to flash control and then we go toe built in flash settings and an exposure compensation. I'm gonna just turn this down was tried negative one and then click OK to set. Now I'm gonna take a photo and we can see that the flash between these photos is, ah, lot less harsh. It's still definitely add some to this photo and you'll see this on the screen. But the 2nd 1 it's gets rid of the shadow that we got in the first image without the flash . But compared to the first flash photo, it's not completely blinding this guy. Another thing we can do is try to filter are flash our internal flash so there's a couple options for this. You can get sort of an attachment like it's a little plastic dome or globe, or even a fabric mesh that goes in front of it. But if you don't have that, simply use a piece of white paper. So I've got my white paper here. I'm just going to put it in front of my flash. Gonna take my picture again. Now this lighting is a lot softer and I would say more beautiful than the harsh flash of the dreck flash. Now let me go in here and boost our flash exposure compensation. We'll go into our built in flash settings. Put that zero again, and if you're using a filter, you might have to actually boost the flash itself. And really, what this is doing, it's not boosting the flash power on the camera because of the internal flash. It just has one sort of setting. It's just affecting the exposure settings. If you're on an auto mode, for example, in my just the shutter speed I S o. R aperture that it's getting to control the actual exposure with this flash so I can see that's a little bit brighter just very subtly the flashes a little bit more powerful, and even though we're defusing, it is brighter than the previous shot. But at the same time, it's not as harsh as that first shot with the flash that you can see here just compared to the last one. A lot softer. So, of course, getting out there as a professional photographer, holding your paper up like that is probably not the best idea. Toe look professional. You should probably want. You probably want to invest in a flash diffusers or an external flash like we'll be covering in these accessory section of this course. But I did want to just show you an example of what you can do with an internal flash to make it look better in a pinch. Thanks so much for watching, and we'll see you in the next lesson. 32. Reading Exposure with the Histogram: in this lesson, I'm covering another little advanced feature of your DSLR called the Hissed a gram. I mentioned this earlier in the class because there was a setting in the menu about it, but it's basically a way to visually represent the exposure of your image. The easiest way to do this is to look at it, so either take out your camera or just watch the video. And if you go to a live preview mode, goto life preview mode and then press the info button to change the display. Or if your camera doesn't have an info button, press the display but in. And there's a potentially a chance that your camera doesn't have a history, Graham. But if it does, you'll just scroll through the info or display settings to see it. So once I get to this image with the little graph right here, you can see a rectangle with looks like some peaks. Some white peaks watch what happens when I increase your decrease the shutter speed, which is actually going to I just the brightness or the darkness of this image. Let me also set my odd I s 0 to 100 so it's fixed. So the camera isn't tryingto auto expose suggests with the shutter speed. That's the only setting that's changing now. See how those peaks with in the History Graham are moving to the left or right when it goes to the left side of the rectangle. It's when the image is actually becoming darker and vice versa. It goes to the right side of the history Graham when it gets brighter. That's because the Hiss graham is a scale that goes from darks too bright or complete black to complete pure white. So if anything is hitting that left side, it means it's completely black. There's zero exposure whatsoever is that there's zero information being captured. If I took that picture, if they let me go ahead and do one of those like that where we have some actually touching the left side all right now let's go all the way to the other side, where some of that the parts of the image are actually touching the writing inside, so those peaks are actually the parts of the image. So let's scroll down where the peaks are somewhat in the middle. That's kind of what you want you want a picture that's has exposures across the board, And that's what the his Graham represents. If you have a peek or multiple peaks from black all the way to pure white, so sometimes you're not going toe have complete black to complete pure white. But in general, you should have something throughout the middle. So if I take that picture, you see it's in the middle and it's well exposed. It's also well exposed. If I look at my exposure meter at the bottom of the life preview as well, we can also review our photos and see what it looks like. So if we press the review button and then again, if you press the info button or the display Bunin and cycle through the views, you can get to this one That shows the hissed a gram. This one's a little bit easier, so let's go with just one foot at a time. This is the last one well exposed. This one's too bright. The other thing this does is cool on this camera. It actually see how this is flashing white. That's telling us that that part of the image is completely pure white. There's no information whatsoever. It's over, exposed. And if we tried to edit it and bring it back and expose it properly and editing, it's not going to work. Now. This one here is the dark one, with the history am showing the the A lot of the image to the left side of the history Graham. And that makes sense because images super, super dark. All right, So, like anything, the history am is meant to be a tool that helps you. There's no rules that are meant to be broken with photography, just like with the exposure meter. I told you that it's okay if it's a little bit dark or a little bit bright. If you have ah, history Ram, that's all black, all on the left hand side, but a little bit on the right hand side. Maybe you're taking a photo of everything being silhouetted, looking through a dark hallway and then at the very end of the hallway is a little bit of light. Or maybe you're outside. You're on a beach and everything is bright and sunny, except for a shadow or a little lifeguard tower or something like that. That would be his Graham with everything a little bit that looks a little too bright and then a little bit in the middle or in the darks, so you use it as a tool, but not necessarily a rule. All right, if you have any questions about his grandma's, let me know otherwise, we'll see you in the next lesson by 33. Camera Video Modes: in this section, we're going to look at the video recording mode of your DSLR. So on a canon t seven I to change to the video mode, you just click it on and then go passed on but into the video mode. Other DSL. Ours will have a little switch here next toe, the live preview button or a specific record button. We also see here. This has a little red dot, which signifies that that's the button that we're going to press to actually record video. So when we're in this mode, you already see that the life preview is on. And that's just the way that with this camera, it's going to want you to shoot your video. So, really, if you just start recording, if you just click this button and you're just going to start recording and you can just kind of go and start making your movies. There are a couple settings, though, in the menu that you might want to look at before you start shooting video. So we click the menu, but and you'll notice that the main menu is actually a little bit different for the video feature. So the first camera set up menu has what's called the movie record size, So if we go into that menu, you have several options. Pay attention to a couple numbers. The first is this first sort of number under my movie record size. Right now it's a to 1920 by 10 80. That's the size of your video. So that's the pixel size 1920 pixels wide by 1080 pixels tall. That's standard HD video, So most DSLR cameras, pretty much any of them now can shoot 10 80 HD video. Some of them can shoot even higher at like two K or four K. And by the time you're watching, this may be a K or beyond, but it depends on your camera. So if you don't see these exact options, don't worry. It's just that your camera is a little different. The next number is the frames per second here were set to 29.97 frames per second. So in the old film days, what this would mean is that for every second of film, the camera is actually taking 30 images or 30 frames. Now, digitally, it's a little bit different in the way that it actually takes its not like its taking 30 frames or 29.97 pictures and stitching it together. It's all digital, but it's still going to have that same effect of that many frames per image or per second. Rather, the more frames per second, the smoother the motions going to be. But these fewer France per second, the more stuttering or jittery it's going to be beyond if you go lower than 24 frames per second and 24 frames per second. I know we're going to down a little rabbit hole right now, but I think it's important to know 24 frames per second is the standard sort of film look. So if you watch an old film that's shot on actual film, it's most likely going to be shot at 24 frames per second. And that's just a very nice, pleasing look. And if you get a little bit faster like 30 frames per second, that might look a little bit more like a television look or even 60 France for a second or the close equivalent of 59.94 That's going to look even more smooth, more television like they shoot a lot of sports and fast paced motion with those higher friends for second. So, again, this isn't a real a class on how you shoot videos. But I did want to just explain what those numbers met and so you can change it. So here we have different options, so we have, uhm 59 9.94 frames per second, so that's close to 60. So if you are shooting something that's a little faster motion or if you want toe slow it down later on and make it slow, mo, you might want to choose a higher FPs. We also have a 12 80 by 7 20 version on this camera, so that's a little bit smaller of a frame. It's still technically HD, but it's not foolish equality. I don't know why you would choose that it takes up less memory space, but if you're shooting video, I would definitely recommend shooting 1920 by 10 80. If I were shooting video, I would choose this last option 1920 10 by 10 80 23.998 FPs. That's going to be the most cinematic looking video that you can capture with this specific camera. If you were shooting with another DSLR that has higher qualities like four K, I would choose that, but still shoot in the 23 98 FPs. That's just my preference. Just do some test shots, go film something that's move ings, running around cars moving by and watch those video clips and a large monitor. Some people can't even tell the difference. I personally like 23 98. So that's really the main setting that you want to look at before you start shooting video . In the next lessons, we're gonna look at a couple other options for recording audio internally with your DSLR and adding an external microphone to make it sound even better. See you there. 34. Audio Levels: one thing that DSLR is don't do good in terms of video is recording audio internally, so every DSLR camera should have an internal microphone and it's going to record audio. But it's not going to sound great. So especially if you're recording like people talking, doing any sort of interviews, anything where you want to really be able to hear what's happening. I would use an external mike from that being said. Either way, I want to show you the option for setting up these audio levels. So if you go into your main video minute menu, you go down to sound recording. Go in that menu. You can turn it from auto, which means it's going toe automatically. Try to judge what the levels are and record at a proper level, and you could change it to manual. And then you can use the go down to the record level, go into that menu and then go left or right. We could use the touch me in here, and it's going to make the recording level higher or lower. If you're just using the internal microphone, it might be worth just setting it to auto. If you're going to use an external microphone. You'll probably want to use the settings, and we'll see that in the next video. The next setting under here is the wind filter, so it can automatically try to prevent wind noise and the DSLR mike friends get a lot of wind noise just from motion of the camera. You walking or actual wind so I would have that on. Also in the wind filter filter menu, you saw the attenuate er. This is a way to decrease the recording level. This would be if you were using an external microphone as well. That is recording and it's too loud. And if it's being distorted, then you might want to add or enable that option. So that's how you manually control the audio levels. When you're looking at that level right here, you see that there's this bars that go from negative 40 db 20 db. And then here you see a green dot under 12 negative 12 db That's really where you want your levels to be balancing. So if I turn this back to auto and you can see I can actually turn disabled it as well, you see that it's bouncing around, and the white dots are going up to about negative 12 which is exactly where we would actually want it to be recording. So in a quiet environment like this, the auto feature works pretty well. But when you're outside, there's honking cars. There's loud noises that you aren't going to be prepared for, and there's also dialogue and people talking. It might be a better idea to use the manual settings, but make sure it's you're trying to get the levels to bounce around that negative 12 mark when someone speaking or whatever with whatever sound you're trying to capture, all right, we'll see in the next lesson when we add an external microphone to this camera. 35. External Microphone: in this lesson, we're talking about adding an external microphone to record better audio with your DSLR. This is the road video Mike Pro. It's the microphone that I recommend to anyone who's shooting with the DSLR camera a Marylise camera and wants an, ah higher quality onboard microphone on board. Meaning we can put this on board are DSLR. It has a little screw with, ah, hot the hot mount plate right here that we can actually, I just slide it in here like so and then clamp it down. And then the Mini Jack, which is the size of this microphone input plugs right into our microphone port right here . Now you want to make sure that you're using a microphone with that size, and you also want to make sure that's plugged into the right jack. There are different types of microphones. Some turn on automatically when you turn on the camera. Some you have to turn on manually. So this one, for example, actually have to turn on manually. And I don't want to go into too much detail because you might not have this microphone. But if you have a microphone like this, you'll see you might see a few different options down here for the levels. So right here you see negative 10 0 and plus 20 that refers to the decibel level. Remember, in the last Lets and we saw that graph for that bar of audio levels that went from, like negative 40 db up to zero. With this setting, you can actually increase or decrease the level that you're recording right within the microphone. And typically with this mike phone, you want to get the loudest quality audio coming into the microphone, then sending that signal into the camera. Because if it's too quiet coming into the microphone, what happens is you'll have to boost the level digitally with the camera. And that's going to not be as good as getting the higher, louder quality audio from the microphone into the camera and doing the reverse, which is making it quieter. Does that make sense? It's kind of like I s o for for photos. You don't wanna have to digitally bright in your image with I s O because it's just doing it digitally, and you can only do so much and the quality can start to get a little bit worse. Similarly, with audio levels, we don't want to have to boost the level of the audio internally in the camera. We do that with our manual settings on the microphone, which is this one right here. So I have said this to plus 20. Now we're gonna go into our menu so it should automatically switch from recording with the internal mike to the extra Mike win. We plug in a microphone. Let's go into our menu, though, and make sure our levels are good. You want to make sure that it's actually hearing this microphone. So if I touched this mike fun right here, I'm just rubbing it. It's definitely recording what's coming through this microphone, not the DSLR notice. If I have just tapped lightly on the camera without talking, it doesn't really capture much audio. But if I touch the microphone, see those levels bouncing up really high. That lets us know that it's recording from the microphone. Now let's definitely switch from recording auto to manual. When we do this, you'll notice that it's super super loud. So if I with here and change this to send negative 10 the levels are actually balancing right around 12 which is good, but that's not the way we want to do it. Remember what I said? I wanna boost the levels on the microphone first and then here on the camera, I want to reduce the levels. So I'm gonna go to that our record level menu, and then I'm just gonna keep talking. Typically, what you would want to do is have someone in front of the microphone and have them talking so that you get the levels of whoever is actually going to be speaking. Now I'm down at the very bottom, so it's not recording any levels now. But if I go up just two or maybe three points, If I was over here talking, you'll probably notice. Although the audio is not great on the main camera that I'm recording with on this camera, it's probably looking better. And that's what I found when you plug in an external microphone put up to plus 20 db. Typically, the record level you'll want to set on your camera itself is just like 2 to 4 notches up from the lowest level. And then when we record, all you have to do is just record like normal, and it's going to record the audio. So let me just do a quick recording, All right, so now I am recording with the external microphone. I don't know what this camera looks like, What the lens look like. You can kind of see. It's a kind of a tight lens, And so now you can hear what is sounding with the external microphone. Now let me unplug external microphone. And so now I'm recording with the internal microphone at auto levels, and you can probably hear a big difference between the external microphone and the internal microphone. And clearly, this is why we should be using the external microphone with this camera. So that's how you add an external microphone to your camera. Just make sure whenever you're shooting, if it does require you turning on the microphone separately, double check that before you start recording. Also, turn it off after you're done recording to save battery. Those are two things that I've made mistakes on, and it's costing me either recording great audio or having battery to record audio in the future. Thanks a lot, and we'll see in the next lesson 36. Lens Choices: welcome to this new section of the course about camera accessories. I did want to go over some of the main accessories you might want for your canon. DSLR. The 1st 1 is not necessarily an accessory, but it's a necessity, and it's your lens. We've already seen a few lenses that I've popped onto the camera throughout the course, but I wanted to show you just a variety of lens options and then talk about what I would recommend when you're building out your kit and upgrading your lens selection. So the first lens you'll probably have is the one that comes with it. This is the cannon 18 to 1 35 This is a zoom lens, as we saw earlier. That means that it consumer inner out, and it has multiple focal lengths. The focal length is basically what refers to how wide or narrow or how, why or telephoto your view is going to be. And so 18 or the smaller numbers are the wider focal lengths, and then the higher the number, it's the more telephoto you you're in. So with this lens, it's pretty. It's a pretty good all around lens. If you want just one lens that you can kind of carry around. You can get portrait. You can get wide landscapes. You could also zoom in and get some telephoto zoom shots. This is a great one toe Have the difference between a zoom lens with multiple focal lanes is the prime lens, so the prime lens has only one focal length. Here's an example of that lens. This is the 50 millimeter prime. This is what's called the Nifty 50. It's a name or a term they called this lens because it's relatively cheap, but it's actually really cool and good lens. So if you are looking to upgrade your first lands or get your first prime and you have a very limited budget look for the 50 millimeter lens that's around 100 to $200. You might even be able to get it for cheaper if you get it used. Most camera brands have a very similar option. The 50 millimeter that's, ah, lot cheaper, but the canon one is known for being actually pretty high quality, so this still isn't there, sort of next level tears or the pro level, which we'll get to in a minute is called the L series, and that's represented by the L That's on the lens and also the red band that you see on the lens itself as well. But the more basic level of lens doesn't have that, which means the build quality isn't going to be a good They're gonna be a little bit more plastic than metal. They might not be weather still sealed, meaning that if it's raining outside her something, you don't want to necessarily shoot with it. Because if water gets into it, which water can get into it? That can mess up your lens. So the quality of the bill just isn't as great, and also the quality of the image might not be as great. So now hopefully you know what the difference between a zoom lens and a prime lenses. So this, again, is the 50 millimeter prime. This one right here is the 24 millimeter prime pancake lens again, a small, cheaper quality lens. But it's really nice for travel. I like the 24 millimeter size. I actually took this lens to Australia with me with a bunch of other lenses when I was traveling, and I used this one the most when walking around and just doing typical kind of travel street photography just cause of the small form factor. This is nice compared to putting this lens on here. This becomes like the real deal, and people are going to start noticing you a lot more if you're carrying around a super large lens like that. So just switching over hopping over here. This is the 24 to 70 millimeter L Series lens. Now this is the first mark. One version. They have a newer mark two version. When you hear that term mark, one mark to that just signifies that it's a version of it. So Mark two will be the newer version. Mark three, if they come out with it, will be the next sort of it oration. Now this lens is what a lot of photographers and videographers choose. The 24 to 70 is a great focal length, meaning the how wide and how telephoto it is is pretty good for most situations. It's not going to be able to get you a super wide landscape photo. It also not going to allow you to get super zoomed in photos so not great for wildlife photography or necessarily sports. But for general everyday photography, this is a great lens. If you could feel this lens, you notice that it's really, really heavy. So compared to this one, which is the 18 to 1 35 which is actually a has a wider range in the zoom, its way heavier. And that's because the amount of glass and everything inside of this is metal and or not everything's metal, but parts of it are metal, and it's just feels like a tank. The other difference between a higher quality lens typically is going to be the aperture options. We kind of covered this earlier in the classroom. We talked about chapters, but some lenses just don't open up to a wide aperture or the widest aperture they open up to is something like an F four point. Oh, versus this lens can open up to an F 2.8. Some lenses can open up to an F 1.2, and the benefit of that is not only being able to photograph in darker situations without having to boost your I s o or slow down your shutter speed too much but the quality of the blur in the background, the broke A, as we call it in photography that Bo K. Looks really amazing when you have ah, super wide open aperture, and it takes a lot of technology and engineering to create a lens that can open up to a wider aperture. And so that's why this is going to be in a more expensive lens. The other thing you'll notice is if you're zooming in some lenses, for example, this lens right here. If I put this on this camera and I zoom in the app, Richard will change so with. So let me just put that on really quick so you can see what that looks like. All right, so if I said it to manual mode and I, I'm zoomed out all the way now the widest my aperture can go is F 3.5, but if I zoom in, it automatically changes the aperture toe F 5.6, and that's just because the way this lenses built, if I zoom in the option for a wider, open aperture, just it it's impossible the way they built this lens with a more expensive lens. like this one. It has a fixed aperture. You might hear that term as well, meaning that even if I zoom in or out, I can choose whatever aperture I want that this lens allows. If I have it At F 2.8, it will stay at F 2.8 if I zoom in. So covering a lot of stuff in this lesson and again like always. If you want to learn more about the ins and outs of lens choices, why you choose certain lens and that kind of thing? Definitely check out the guitar few masterclass, which covers all of these things in more depth. The other thing that I wanted to mention was that you don't have to pick canon lenses to shoot with your DSLR. Canon has been around for such a long time that other brands such as Tamron or Toe kina Sig mothers other brands out there. They create lenses that fit the cannon E Mount, so Canon uses what's called the E Mount. That's what this mountains called, or canon. DSLR is used the email anyways, and so if you get a lens from another brand like Tamron or Takina and it, says E Mount. It will fit on this camera. So here is a lens. This is the Takina 11 to 16 millimeter lens, a zoom lens. It's really wide, great for landscapes and is, I love this lens for video and all kinds of stuff, too. It's a pretty small ends, too, for taking around and capturing just architecture shots, street photography as well. This Toki no, was one of my very first zoom lenses that I got. It's a much cheaper lens. The quality is an amazing, But if you're just looking for something with a lot of zoom, this is the 75 to 300 millimeter zoom Tamron lens. And again, the size look at the size is about the same. It's not as wide as 24 to 70 but it has a much longer zoom. That being said, the quality isn't as great, but still, Tamron nowadays make some pretty good lenses that go on canon. So check out other brands. Sigma Definitely for sure, they make a great line of lenses for Canon DSLR. Now, the last thing I want to quickly mention because you might not be using the cannon t seven I is about crop factor. We haven't talked about this before in this class, but depending on the size of your sensor, it's going to basically adjust what the actual focal length is. Four year lens, the number for the focal length on your lenses, actually referring to what the focal length is for a full frame sensor. So a canon camera like the five D or the 60 or the one D X. That's a full frame sensor. Those sensors are bigger, and therefore it's able to capture more information. Mawr, light and just all around, generally going to be a better image, depending on the sensor size as well. Change is the focal length, so with a smaller sensor, it actually ends up being a little bit more zoomed in. So if I put on this 24 millimeter on this camera the T seven I, which is a crop sensor meaning a smaller sensor and take a photo and then I put the same ones on a full frame camera, it's actually going to look more zoomed in on the crop sensor camera. There's a lot of technology behind this about why, but basically understand that the crop sensor camera will look a little bit more zoomed in than a full frame camera. Now, you might say, Well, that's cool. That's kind of a benefit. And yes, it is. If you're a wildlife attire for or a sports photographer. A lot of people like using crop sensor cameras because of that fact, you can put on the same zoom lens and get even mawr reach, be able to zoom in even further with it. But the drawback is that the quality of the sensor sometimes is a little bit less. Now. This is a debate that has raged on between photographers for many years. Full frame versus crop frame, to be honest, crop frame or crop frames. Crop sensors are super high quality now. And to take professional photography, you do not need to have a full frame camera or a full frame sensor. That being said, some people love the full frame, their full frame cameras. And, of course, you're going to get some more pixels with full frame sensors. Look is a little bit different in terms of the bow. Okay, the background blur on full frame sensors, and also you get a little bit of extra light, so meaning you can shoot in a little bit darker situations with a full frame camera. That being said, depending on what lens you're using, whatever you're set up, you can basically get the same exact photo with both types of cameras. But I want the reason why I'm mentioning this is because you might hear someone say like, Well, was the full frame equivalent or what's the actual focal length of the 50 millimeter on a crop frame sensor? What's called the crop factor is that mathematical equation and for this camera and for most canon crop sensors, its 1.6 times. So if you take this 50 millimeter and you multiply it by 1.6, it's actually going to end up being 80 millimeters. So this 50 millimeters is actually photographing like an 80 millimeter lens on a full frame camera. Does that make sense? I know it's super confusing, but if you're like you might be coming from a full frame camera shooting with a 50 millimeter prime, and then you get to your cop frame camera, you put on a 50 millimeter prime, and you're like, Whoa, I'm a little bit zoomed in. I need to back up a little bit more, and that's because you'll want more of like a 35 millimeter lens or a zoom that goes to 35 millimeters to get that same 50 millimeter focal length. All right, this is getting way too confusing, really. At the end of the day, if you're shooting with across frame sensor camera, it's not going to matter to you because you're just gonna be shooting with it. And you're not gonna notice if it's bigger or wider or longer, or closer or anything, unless you are really comparing between two cameras or you have two cameras. The last thing about that, though, is that some lenses are made specifically for crop frame cameras that won't work on full frame cameras. Most full frame cameras. It has a mode nowadays that will switch it to like crop frame mode, but a land like this one right here, which is the FS 18 to 1 35 millimeters lens. This is made for the crop frame camera, and if I put this on a full frame sensor camera while it will work, you can put it on. You might when you're zoomed out all the way have, like a big been yet you might even see black around the edges because the full frame sensor is actually too large for the way that this lenses made. So another land like this. The cannon 24 to 70 though, is made for both full frame and crop frame cameras. So that's just something to look at when you are buying a lens. If you ever think you're going to upgrade to a full frame camera, maybe it's something you pay attention to and on. Li buy lenses that work with a full frame camera because if you do upgrade to a full frame camera, you'll want to be able to use your lenses. All right, I know we covered a lot of stuff here, but that's a really general overview of a lot that has to do with lenses. If you have any questions, please let me know. And of course, I haven't mentioned it much in this class. But if you have questions, you can join the Photography and Friends group on Facebook. This is a community of beginner photographers who would be happy to help you and answer any questions you have about lenses. If you're thinking about a specific lens, there's probably people that have it. So you can join the photography and friends group and ask questions there as well. All right, have a great day and we'll see you in the next lesson. 37. External Flash: in this lesson, we're going to talk about another accessory you might want to get as you upgrade your kit, which is an external flash. External flashes come in all kinds of makes and models. Typically, the best idea is to get one that is the same brand as your camera. But you can find more inexpensive ones that are off brand. Just make sure that it makes it will work with your camera. This one is the 4 30 e X to a really basic sort of flash. Also, if you're looking at external flashes, they might call it a speed light. So what you do to actually get to this toe work is it does go on your hot shoe mount like this and you'll see that actually has some sensors down here at the bottom of the plate that connect to the hot shoe mount here. So plug it in there and then lock it into place, typically, how it's gonna work. All right, so now when we turn on our camera, it's not going to automatically start to work unless we turn on the on button here. So with the on button on on the external flash itself were in program mode. If you just press and take a picture, it's going. It's going toe. Actually, engage and turn on this flash. You see this little button right here? It says, Pilot, if that's off, it means that it's not ready to shoot yet. If you're taking a bunch of pictures one after the other, it might take a minute for a minute or a few seconds for the flash, too. Get ready. The cool thing about these external flashes and the main thing Teoh consider when you are buying your own is that it rotates and swivels, So there's a button on the side of this that allows me to rotate. I can also tilt it, and the cool thing about this is, then we don't have to have the flash pointed directly at our subject like this. That was probably really bright for you, because that's going to look terrible. Let me get my friend Bill to help us out again with a model shoot. All right, so we got our friend. Bill Here is Well, let's try to get builds portrait. So again, if I'm taking photos here, of course I have some video lights set up for my video. But who knows? Whatever situation you're in, you might be in a room with, you know, lights coming down from above. So you can. I want to work with whatever you have. So here I have it first tilted directly at Bill's face. We're gonna zoom in, get a nice portrait. Now the flash is super harsh directly at Bill's face in that image. So what I'm going to do and what I typically would recommend is tilted so that the flash itself is pointed up at the ceiling or behind you so that the light is actually bouncing off the ceiling for bouncing off a wall and then returning and hitting your subject's face , which will create softer, nicer lighting. So now, if we compare these two images, the 1st 1 you can see is a little bit harsher. Generally, you'll get some glare on a person's forehead. If there's any moisture, you'll definitely see that with the flash with the 2nd 1 with the flash point above, its a lot SARFT softer. Now the light is coming from above, so I want to get rid of this sort of shadow That's on the right side of Bill's face. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to tilt it this way. So it's shooting behind me this way, and hopefully it'll kind of get more of the light. That's on Bills left side of his face or his right side. There we go. So if we look at these images, this last one less shadowy, of course, it depends on what you're going for. If you're looking for a very dramatic, shadowy sort of look, then you might want that shadow. But the lighting is actually pretty nice, and that's the beauty of using a flash like this. You can customize where it is. And if you are ever shooting flash photography, I would definitely recommend using an external one, not the internal one. Now all these flashes will have different modes and options. It would definitely definitely recommend whatever brand or model you get. Go on YouTube going Google search for instructions on your model or just used the manual that comes with it. But generally what it will have is a plus or minus button on the left or right hand side. There will be, but is that you can press to increase the brightness of the flash. So let's take this one more time with a little bit brighter of my flesh actually, wasn't too much brighter. So let's just do a little bit more of a direct life. That's really bright. List turned down the brightness down here we were at plus two. We're gonna go down to zero, actually, let's just go down to negative one. So now you can see in comparing these two images the 1st 1 really, really bright, the 2nd 1 not as bright. So that's another sending you might want to look at if you are focusing this directly at Salon, which I don't recommend at all. Toning that down, I guess there are going to be situation Say you're out at the beach. There's no ceiling, no no wall behind you that's going to balance this light off of. So if you're pressing this backwards like this, then it's not going toe basically look like anything. It's not going to look like it's adding any late to you're seeing, so you might be in a situation where you have this point directly at your subject or ideally, a little bit above. And that might be a situation where you just use the manual settings on the flash itself to make it brighter or darker. Unlike the exposure compensation settings on the internal cameras flash that we saw earlier , this is is actually making the flash brighter or darker. Now I'm on program mode. So no matter what my camera is trying to expose to whatever situation it's in, so if the light is brighter or darker, is still going to try to have that perfect exposure. There might be situations, though, where we want to get a little bit more artsy with it and have more control. So I'm going to switch over to manual mode, going to try to get something a little bit more dramatic. So first I'm just going to looking at my settings. I'm gonna just take one follow here as a test shot. Okay, so this one a little bit right, But I like that there are some shadows on bills right side. I want that to be even more shadowy, so I'm gonna make it even darker. So to make it darker, there's a few things I can do. I can increase the shutter speed. Do you know the shot? Still pretty break. So another stunning we have is our after. So I'm gonna close down my aperture goto f 10. See what that looked like? A way to dark. So F 10 was a little bit too dark. So let's go up to F 6.3. That's looking better. Let's just move on. Flash a little bit more direct, but it's kind of pointing towards the side Bill's face. Now that is the moody image with light coming from one side that I was looking for. One more straight on. Get a nice actual framed portrait. Okay, very there we have Bill. Let's just take one with faced up just to see what that looks like. As you can tell, it's just less moody, so it's a little bit more angle. Oh, there we go. That is the line that I like. It's not completely in the shadows, but you still get nice shadow on one side. So Oh, just having fun with this. But I just wanted to show you kind of what I would be doing. Teoh, get Amore manual creative. Look with a flash depending on your camera, and flash. One thing you might notice is that you might not be able to increase the shutter speed faster than 1 2/100 of a second. And the reason is because when you're using a flash, if your shutter is too fast, then the it's not going to capture the flash itself for the moment when the flashes lighting up your subject. So in general, you don't want to go faster than 1 2/100 of a second or so You can play around with it and see, um, how it works with your camera and your your flash. But that's just one thing to know if you're scrolling through the shutter. It's just something I remembered when I was doing it. And my camera isn't going past 1 2/100 of a second, and the reason is because it doesn't want to allow us to miss the flash itself. All right, I'm having too much fun here. I think you're gonna wanna flash after this lesson. Maybe, maybe not. But hopefully by now you know a little bit more about how an external flash works and what you can do with it. Thanks so much for watching and we'll see you in the next lesson. 38. ND Filters: welcome to this new lesson. One of the other accessories I want to mention our nd filters these air what nd filters are . It's just a little filter that goes on the end of your lens, and it actually cuts down the light. So, as you can tell from these two, there's different strengths, and so one is a little bit more powerful, and we'll cut down more light than the other. And depending on the type of nd filter, you get some you can stack so I can actually screw multiple of these nd filters on to make it even darker. The screw on the end of your lens so they will come in the specific size of your lens. So you want to make sure you're getting the right size filter. For example, this is a 77 millimeter filter, and so if you look at your lens, you should see the size of it in on the inside ring. This is different than the focal length, so this is a 24 to 70 millimeter lens focal length, but the actual size, or the diameter of the lends itself is 77 millimeters. They also have some converters or some different types of lint filters that slide in its more of like a square that has a contraption that fits on the ends of end of a lens. And then you just slide it in and those can work for different size lens. And so you don't have to necessarily get different nd filters for every single lens you have. But why would you even use an Andy filter? The main reason, in terms of practicality for photography, is if you are shooting the long exposure photography. You know those long exposure photos of like a waterfall. It'll fall or a river or cars lights where it's just kind of like a streak of light or a streak of water going through the sky or across the water. That's what long exposures are. It's basically taking a 32nd exposure or a one minute exposure, and it's capturing all of that motion in one photo with most lenses and most cameras, though, if you're shooting in the middle of the day, there's just too much light to be able to capture a long exposure. If you set your camera to 30 seconds and even if you close down your aperture, meaning you made it as small as possible to lead toe getting as less light as possible. And you lower your eyes, Soto 100 or the lowest that it goes on your camera. Your photo might end up still being too bright, just completely overexposed. So that's why you add nd filters to the end of your lens so that you can actually cut down even mawr light. I have a full class on long exposure photography or in the photography masterclass. We have a full section on that Web walks through exactly how to do this if you're interested. But I did just want to mention these as an accessory that you might want to check out. It's something that is necessary if you're doing daytime long exposures, thanks so much for watching and we'll see you in another video. 39. Memory Cards (SD Cards): in this video, I just wanted briefly talk about SD cards. We talked a little bit about it earlier in terms of how you put it in your camera and speeds, but I just wanted to show you a few different options that you can purchase. So these air three SD cards that I just have here in my studio and the three different speeds So we see the number in terms of the total space that they each can hold to our 32 gigabytes. One is eight gigabytes. Then we also see a speed. Number one is 95 megabits per second when his 80 megabits per second and one doesn't even have it on here, actually, but I know it's not as fast because it's a basic SD card. It has a little number two there, which also signifies that the quality these other ones are I won and a 10 and a three and a 10 so that 10 with the little half circle or the sea around it is the class of the card. And so a class 10 card is going to be what you want to get for photography or video. Now in between these 21 is the San disc Extreme Pro. One is the ultra plus. Both are going to shoot decently for photos and for video, but one is going to be better. The faster ones gonna be better, the one that writes at 95 megabits per second. And the reason is because if you're shooting in a continuous burst mode, which we saw how to do earlier in the drive settings of our camera, depending on how fast that burst mode is, it might be too fast for a slower card. And I have actually seen that with this 80 megabits per second at Ultra plus card. So SD cards are inexpensive enough now that if you're getting new SD cards, just get the ones that are the fastest on the market. These air great ones, the SD or the SanDisk. Extreme pro 95 megabits per second Class 10 cars. There's even ones that are faster than this. Um, and those ones are going to be even more important if you're shooting video. Especially higher quality video like four K footage. Thes are going to be fine for 10 80 p footage shot with a camera like the T seven i. But if shooting with ah higher quality camera like the one d X or one of the of the newer Canon DSLR is that shoots four K, you want to get what's even faster on the market. You'll want to even get a faster card, and probably one that holds more space to 32 gigabytes is not that much. Actually, when you're shooting for Kate Video, thank you so much for watching and we'll see you in another video. 40. Thank You: Wow, We've made it to the end of the class. And my goal is that by now you feel more confident and comfortable using your canon DSLR if you feel comfortable. If you feel confident if you're still a little iffy, but you think you have a good place to start, that's great. And I'm so happy for you. If there's anything that I covered too quickly or didn't go in depth enough about, please let me know. I want to make this class the best class for anyone with a canon DSLR just getting started out. As I mentioned in the beginning of this class, we are using a cannon t seven I, and this is gonna be different than some of the canon DSLR is that you might be using. So if there was something that was different and it was just impossible to figure out on your own or just in the class, we covered something that wasn't on your camera or that is on your camera. And it's not on this camera that we covered. Please let me know. There's a lot of things that might be different that are worth covering and some things that maybe I shouldn't have covered, but your feedback is going to be what's best for helping me make this a an even better class. As I've mentioned in the class before, we have other photography courses that you might be interested in. The photography masterclass is sort of the best big general complete guide, perfect for beginners to cover pretty much anything you need to know about photography. We also have more specific styles of photography that we teach, such as long exposure night photography, landscapes, Street portrait. You can find those by clicking on my profile or searching my name or video school online on the platform that you are watching this course on. Thank you again So much for taking this chorus. If you haven't done so yet, please leave a review and a rating for this course. Those help other students know whether this is the right course for them or not, and it also helps me know what to do to make this course even better. Or if people are actually liking this course. Thank you again. Have a beautiful day and I hope to see you in another class