Bubbles Earrings | Joanne Tinley | Skillshare
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13 Lessons (1h 15m)
    • 1. Bubbles Earrings

      1:47
    • 2. Bubbles Earrings - materials

      2:30
    • 3. Bubbles Earrings - equipment

      1:54
    • 4. Bubbles Earrings - soldering equipment

      3:38
    • 5. Bubbles Earrings - cleaning the silver

      3:31
    • 6. Bubbles Earrings - cutting the discs

      4:57
    • 7. Bubbles Earrings - soldering

      17:56
    • 8. Bubbles Earrings - sawing

      15:16
    • 9. Bubbles Earrings - filing

      7:05
    • 10. Bubbles Earrings - preparing the earwires

      2:03
    • 11. Bubbles Earrings - soldering the earwires

      5:24
    • 12. Bubbles Earrings - finishing the earwires

      7:08
    • 13. Bubbles Earrings - final thoughts

      1:36

About This Class

Welcome to the Bubble Earrings class! This class will teach you how to layer discs of silver on a background of silver sheet, building up a texture of bubbles.

The layers of silver are soldered together using sweat soldering, a technique also covered in the Layered Ovals and Falling Leaves classes. Mastering this technique will help you to create smooth and neat solder joins, giving a lovely professional finish to your designs. The class will also give you a chance to practise your sawing skills, and I'll include some hints and tips to help you with that.

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This is one of a series of video classes, each one showing you how to quickly and easily make a lovely pair of earrings - sometimes two pairs - as part of my #52earrings challenge. I have challenged myself to design and film tutorials for 52 pairs of earrings in 2017, and I'd love you to join me. In each video I will show you the materials you will need, explain the tools and equipment and go through all the steps needed to create your own lovely pair of earrings. Along the way I will share with you the same hints and tips that I teach in my jewelry making classes and private tuition so that you become more confident with your techniques and design skills with each class that you watch.

This class is an intermediate class as previous experience of soldering is useful.

The equipment needed for the project is explained in the videos and also listed on a downloadable document that covers most of the tools that I will use in future earrings video classes as well so you can plan ahead! All the equipment listed can be used for a variety of other jewellery making projects.

Earrings #28 in the #52earrings challenge

Transcripts

1. Bubbles Earrings: Hello. My name's giant inlay. I'm a jewelry designer and shooter from South Coast UK on Welcome to the Bubbles Hearings Class in this class will be using swept suffering technique. This announced you too neat, clean, smoothly soldier layers of silver on top of each other when you use the technique to soldier discs a sterling silver onto a piece of stony silver sheet and then we're going to cut neatly around the edge. Levian for a bit of a margin around this silver. So we create a Texas piece of silver a text. You're not created by any hammers or punches, although you could add those in a sexually if you wanted to, but a text created by the A silver itself. I'm going to cut the discs myself for this project onto pieces of scrap silver left over from other projects like and use my discounter to help me do that. However, don't worry if you don't have access to a disc attar, because most brilliant supplies do sell a wide range of diameter disks in a really good range of gauges of sheet thicknesses as well, so you will be able to buy them if you can't make yourself. This class is passed. The 52 hearings challenged I set myself for 2017 to design and film tutorials for 52 different kinds of earrings. If you'd like to see some behind the scenes photos since of information on watch tools coming next, then have a look out for the HASHTAG 52 hearings on Facebook. So if you're ready, let's get started by having a look at the equipment on the materials eventually to fight the hearings. 2. Bubbles Earrings - materials: These are the materials that you're going to need to make the bubbles earrings. You're needs a sterling silver sheet for the main part of the earrings. I'm actually using some scrap silver. It was quite thick pieces of silver sheet left over from other projects. Andi. I sent it through my rolling mill to thin it out. So I've got pieces here that are approximately naught 0.5 millimeters thick, but you could use anything from no 0.5 to a maximum of no 0.7 millimeters for this. But do remember that in some parts of the earrings, you're going to be using two layers of silver, so you don't want the earrings to be too thick, because that would obviously mean that they were that little bit heavier. And you don't want to be too heavy. Other uncomfortable toe where if you do do it, I've done and send scrap silver. Sue the rolling mill to make it thinner, but a wider surface area so you can cuts the discs out of it. Then try and make sure that you end up with piece of sheet that are the same thickness because that will make it much easier if you to create two earrings that much. Of course, you don't have to use recycled silver that you could use fresh new piece of sheet. But you may have worked out for my video classes that I like to recycling. Get as much as possible out of my silver. I'm not going to add any patterns on top of the silver sheet. The layers of the silver are going to provide the texture in this project. But you could if you wanted to, cuts the discs of silver out of sheets that has already been textured. You would need to text to the sheet before you cut the discs out. Because hammering or using texture punches on the disks once they've been cut out could change their shape from that nice, crisp around, you might recognize this textured piece of sheet as a leftover piece from the layered ovals hearings class. As usual, I'm going to be making the ear wires out of no 0.8 millimeter around sterling silver wire. That's the equivalent to 20 gauge wire, and I find it a really good gauge of wire to hold its shape nicely, but also to be comfortable and not to second heavy to go through the holes in your ears. 3. Bubbles Earrings - equipment: the way he was. The equipments that you're going to need to make a buck with earrings. I'm going to cut out the discs that were going to form the top layer of the earrings using my disk. Attar I'm going to hammer the cutters with the old hammer. I'm going to support the discussion on another cushion whilst I work. I'm going to cuts thesis over sheets that forms the back layer of the hearings with the jeweler's saw Ondas always, I'm going to support my work on the bench. Pake that clamped onto the desk on the dust will be collected in the apron underneath so that they can go into scrap posture to be recycled metal state. I'm going to use a Sharpie to help me mark out the sheet to show me where to saw. I've got very shaped needle files, A smooth and nita even ouch. The sheet and the rest. The tools are there to help me form and finish the year wise, I'm going to measure the length of no 0.8 millimeter wires I need with a ruler. On day, I'm going to use the wire cutters to cuts the wire. The Niland your applies to make short. It's nice and smooth on the flat. No supplies to help form the ear wise. At the end. I'm going to bend the ear wise around the stepped Mandel, although, as I said before, anything that's round and off a suitable size such soup ambo do the job just as well to give the otherwise a bit of extra strengths I'm going to have with, um, with the flashing hammer. I've been support here, wise on the bench, block on top of the leather cushion must hammer. This is a soldering project, so let's also have a look at the soldering equipment that you're going to need. 4. Bubbles Earrings - soldering equipment: I think this is the soldier equipment, as I use for all of my smaller projects, such as earrings and sore pendants, Everything sitting on a couple of slate tiles, a heatproof surface to help protect my desk on my work sits on a couple of soldering bricks , soldering blocks while some heating it up. One of these soldering bricks is made of a softer material than the others. Because it's softer, it's picked up some dips and some cracks in it. It's being used over the years, and these could be very useful for supporting work that isn't completely flat. The charcoal block is there because I melt small piece of scrap on top of that on. Do they form nice of my balls as I am used to decorate my projects when I need to pick up my work or to support it whilst I'm soldering? I used reverse action tweezers that you can see here and have also got a pair on a stand through 1/3 hand, and it's there when I need 12 on extra hands to help me out. The blue handled stick is a soldier pick on and that I used to push soldier, move it about to make sure it it's exactly what I wanted to be. Soldier usually comes in strips or sticks. Andi, I've got three different melting temperatures here that I using combination for different projects. The soldier gets cut into small pieces or Palin's you ting. The red handles snips as I keep those little pieces in the labeled boxes that you can see do. Make sure that you label your boxes because once a soldier is cut up, you won't be hard to tell which is which. Melting temperature. My curl over the ends off the sticks of solder so that I can tell which melting temperature they are, the more cold over they are, they're higher. The mountain temperature, bright yellow liquid is a flux. Solder won't actually flow out through the joining unless you use a flux with it. Andi, the paintbrushes. What I used to apply the flux to the joints in my work. Small projects like hearings only need a small blowtorch, and I've got two different makes of those here. Both of them are easy to refill with the gas that comes in aerosol cans. Since the same type of gas, butane gas that you use to reform cigarette lighter. At the back of the picture, you can see a so cooker that Scots a very mild acid solution. Good safety pickle in it. When you heat silver up, the surface becomes not darker and dirtier looking that some of the capo in the study silver reacting with the heat and auction flame to forward cause copper oxides on the safety pickle cleans it a couple oxides up before you put your work in the safety pickle, it needs to be cooled down or quenched in a pot of water. Andi, you need to put your work in and out of the safety pickle with brass or plastic tweezers. Not the stainless steel ones that I showed you before and thus, but definitely not least our have safety glasses. You've only got one pair of eyes. Look after them carefully. 5. Bubbles Earrings - cleaning the silver: now, one of the requirements for soldering is that you need your metal to be nice and clean as dirt on the surface of the silver can inhibit the flow of solder. Our mark left by a Sharpie permanent marker doesn't count because that gets burnt off before you reach soldering temperature. These pieces of silver, as you can see, are definitely not nice and clean. They've actually been sitting in my scrap pot for quite a few weeks. As I've already said, they are pieces of silver that are left over from other projects. And when I finished those other projects, I sent the silver through the rolling mill to thin it out so she would be ready and waiting for me. A sinner, pieces of sheet that would be perfect for a project like this. But whilst they've been sitting about in this crackpot, they've built up some organization that they gather bits of dirt and dust and all of that is going to inhibit the soldering process. So what I'm going to do it heats them up. I'm going to burn the dirt off. I'm going to quench them. I'm going to pickle on. Then we're going to be left with a nice clean silver ready for the project. The pieces of silver this I want to cut the discs from a fine. It's just these two large pieces, so I need to worry about the pieces. So I want to use as a backing for the earrings. I'm gonna heat them up. - So , apart from the bloom of oxygen ization that's appears there looking a lot cleaner and do remember that these are going to have far less oxygen ization than a fresh new piece of stunning silver sheet would have, because in order to recycle them through the rolling mill, I had to a Neil them to make them soft enough to work with. Pop them in the pickle pot to clean up after that. So they've already had some of the copper removed from the surface. So because of that, there's obviously not as much corporatization soap. I need to quench these because you never put anything hot directly into the pickle. Andi, Once I've done that to clean them up in the pickle setbacks, actually, little bit dirtier. Clean him up in the pickle on, and then they will be ready for with the rest of the project. By the way, before I did any work on this soldering Rick, I made sure that there were no stray bits of solder left on it. I gave it a nice clean because it was being really annoying to have melted little pieces soldier into the back of the silver that would have made it difficult to work with. 6. Bubbles Earrings - cutting the discs: I'm going to use my discussed her to create the desk that I need for the earrings, but don't lie too much. We don't have access to one yourself because you can't buy discs in a wide variety off gauges of sheet on Also in diameters, my discussed a may not look like the shiniest, newest piece of kit anymore. It's in a decade old, but it's a really good quality one, and it's it's mental. Last me. A lifetime on Do things that make it particularly quality is that the two sections that the sheet goes in between sandwich together really tightly up against the sheet. So when you put a cutter in the whole of the top a hammer it through to who creates the disc, there's no bouncing about. The sheet doesn't move about its hold firmly so that disk is cut out really neatly. The other thing that makes this set to really good quality is that tactically, Comptel, as I turn this around, the punch or cutter is not flat. It's got really nice guys, crisp, sharp edges on its sloping slightly. This means it doesn't try and punch out the disc, all at the same time, it starts to cut at the highest point here. And then that cuts berates around as you hammer the cutter further into the sheet so it produces really nice, crisp, clean discs that don't have any cleaning up. My rule is that if I'm going to spend my money on something cuts, I'm going to buy the best quality that I can. Firstly, the tool is going to last me so much longer. But most importantly, it's going to do the job really neatly, and I'm going to need less cleaning up afterwards, so it's a lot more efficient. It was saved me time and therefore money in the long run. In the end, though, you have to think about cost her use. I use piece like kits like this very, very frequently at least every couple of days in the workshop to produce a lot of work. But if you're not producing as much work, then you might use to get a sight Cheaper version says by the best that you can, but think about cost for use as well, so show you how this actually works. Andi and he quite a few discs for the project so I'm not gonna make you watch me Cut all of them out. But I'm going to show you cutting a couple of amounts. He can see how it works. I'm going to cut the third smallest size on because this is a nice cutter. It can cut really closely up to the edge. So I'm just going to justice. Hold the time I'm looking through. I'm looking to see that I can just about see the edges. I'm going to move the sheet until they just out of sight. So it's held. Just push that down a bit. So it's held tightly, held firmly. That sheet could move a little bit. Attorney if I if I make it, But it's ah, right close up against the edge there. Andi, this is the punch I'm going to need. Make sure you do. Put it in the right way around on. And this is highly technical. You hit it from the old hammer and that we have one disc, quite a small one. But I don't want big ones for these earrings. Andi, that comes out well the way but back in that is a more often I lose it and you can see just how closely there is. Still a few little bit a silver just there haven't broken all the way through, but you can see how close I am to the edges there. So it's a really nice cutter, so I'm going to do another one same shape, partly because I like cutting discs out there very, very useful. Andi, partly so you can see me setting it up against so was making certain that I can see the edges through the hole, put them slightly out of you, pushed down to make sure it's how tightly cause you're backing another disc. So that's two discs giving me a start on the earrings. I'm going to cut out a few more on when I've done. I'm going to take the most soldering blocker. I'm going to start setting up for solving the earrings. 7. Bubbles Earrings - soldering: a. So you can see I've now cut out a lot of discs out of that scrap. Why not? All of them are going to get used for these earrings, but they're always going to be useful, something so they'll be kept in a little pot until I decided I'm going to use them for I've just cut out the three. Smallest size is eating my disk attar on, and you can see that I've already arranged one set of disks in the past, since I like on one of the pieces of scrap sheet that you saw earlier these the two pieces of scrap sheet that I cleaned up, heated to burn off the dirt, then quenched and cleaned up in the pickle. And so you see there no nice and clean, and they're ready to be worked with again. Other said, I've set up one set of disks in a presence I like, So I've gone for I'm rough over lish shape on, and I think this is going to be the top over here. So I'm going to do is keep those there as a guide, a reminder of what I'm going to do. One tick once you gotta nearing design that you like is that you might want to take a quick photo with your phone. That way, if you not. If I break accident plane knocks things out position. You still got a record of how you actually wanted it to be. What I'm going to do now is just take, um, matching one's these disk. So I was just checking to see that That was a complete disc. For a moment, it looked as if I need to the edge off. It hasn't so had one of the largest, um three. It's like three of that size against choose three. Very nice ones. We have those on three of the smallest. So got groups one to three. So what I'm going to do now is put a drop of flux and a bit of soldier onto the back of each of these discs. It can see up on the top of the brick here. I'm going to melt the solder in position so that I condone it. Turn them back over on top off this other piece of sheet. The scientist I just moved out the waste. It doesn't get heated unnecessarily on re melted solder and solder in place. So this is another project that's using the swept soldering technique. I'm just going to move if these ones asked away, Put pushed him off the fabric. But now, under our tight boy improvement in part like Cherone, it's going to move the's a little bit further away from from this one. Here, Doctor, draw on the back of its on that one as well, drawing on the back of those pieces of scrap. Some point the disks picked up little dots. Is that white opponent marker, so it will just burn off. As I said, it's going to put a drop off. Looks on the back of each of these. Quite a bit of flux, actually. Don't need quite as much. Is that using the paintbrush to soups? Sechrest? African? I didn't Not on during that, sir. It goes on stuck. I'm just brushing. The Xs float us off the paint brush because if I leave the paint brush to wet, it won't be on to pick up little pieces of soldiers very easily. It's going to put a piece Oh, medium soda onto the back of each of these. Actually, with these larger ones. My soldier pieces are very, very small. So with the larger disks, I'm going to put a couple of pieces. Capisce disappeared inside the brush. See if I could encourage it back out again. No, you get this one. I'm using medium soldier because that leaves me free to use Easy sold up for putting the ear wise on the back of the hearings. Britain. Another small piece soda on that one I spent zoom in so that you can see those are a little bit better. I've got 1234567 little discs set up in this area off the silvery regular dry brick on. What I'm going to do now is melt the solder in place. That said, because that I can turn those disks over, put them into the right places on the piece of sheet is I'm going to sold them on to Andi. Then the soul will be exactly royal wanted to pay. So I'm going to heat up quite gently around the disks heating up gently so that C sir, the flux doesn't bubble up too quickly. And make those pieces soldiers jump off. - Just stopping at this point to point out to you got to see some. The flux has gone but white here. That's the appearance that takes on when it's dried out a big brave, a tentative with the flame because these are very, very small pieces of silver. It doesn't take very much to heat them up. A tall Andi. If I wasn't very tentative and very gentle with a blowtorch, the nice priest the soldier would have jumped off. So let's go back in there with the heat on this time. Heat him up further to solving temperate. Just that eat that medium soldier starts to melt. - There is little difference or not. Easy it a scene now that they're not dirty or they show up a lot more on the soldering brick. But all those pieces of solder have no melted and spread out a little bit, so they're now fixed onto onto the backs of disks. So now it's a case off, pushing them onto this piece of sheet on during so so that they are a mirror image off the pattern that's on the other one. So zoom out against you can see that going on. I'm happy with that it certainly not being exact much to the discs on here, but it's close enough for me to be happy with it. Andi much. She now going to move the's right just the way so that there's no risk of any harm coming to them. Move thes a little bit closer. - I could probably keep fiddling about with those for for hours until they're I think they're absolutely perfect. Sometimes it's knowing when to when to stop sucker stop there. What I'm going to do now they're backing up with the blowtorch. I'm going to start putting most heat into the sheet because that is the biggest piece of metal. It's the bits that's going to take the most heat to get up to the temperature that we require for soldering and also the soldier flows to the hottest part of the metal. So what? So what? Everything of solving temperature. I need to go back and was a little bit more heat into the sheet to draw the soldier down from the discs onto the sheet and turn those eight pieces of silver into one solid piece. That's the first hearing soldiers on bond Those pieces disks appear to be family in place on what I saw towards the other soldering was a nice line on meniscus of solder appearing around the edges of the discs showing me that the soldier had flown from the middle of disks were already put it right to the edges. So it was really firmly on evenly attached onto the sheet. What I'm going to do now is set up the second hearing in exactly the same way on, and so do that again. This time I'm going to zoom in a little bit closer when I'm soldering to get you a slightly different view, I set up the earring on the shorter piece of sheet I really melted. So medium soldier onto the back of each disc on dive set it up as close as I can. A mirror image of this 1st 1 that's already been sold it. Do you remember when you're doing this? But don't be too hard on yourself. We're not machines. There are going to be some differences between the earrings, but they are very, very minor ones. The same is before I'm going to heat up around design. I'm going to put the heat into the sheet at the back initially, is that its largest piece of silver on? Then start brushing across on again. I want to be out to see that line or the meniscus of solder around the edge. I hope that now have. I've zoomed in a bit more with this one. You get a different view, and you might catch a glimpse about yourself. So again, so the soldier appear around the edge by, though I didn't have to put any extra flux on here, even though it had dried. So it wasn't so obvious. There was still flux on the back of the discs, and that was enough to get soldiers to marital flow. So you don't sweat soldering. You don't usually have to add anymore flux. So both of these pieces, I think the 1st 1 up both system now need to be quenched. They know, see to go in the pickle pot to clean up before I do the next job. The next job is going to be trimming the sheet down so that it just forms a frame around the bubbles of the discs 8. Bubbles Earrings - sawing: the bubbles have sold it really nicely onto the silver sheet. They haven't moved about a tool on there nice and flush and flat up against the bigger piece of silver sheet there on top off. As you can see, every drawn a line with the sharply around the bubbles on this hearing, and that's going to help me see where I need to sort to make sure that I don't saw to close up the bubble. So I got a nice margins silver around thumb at the back on. I'm not going to do the same with this one, So not exactly difficult. But what I'm doing is holding the pen upright. Andi, I've got it nice and close up against the bubbles. Oh, just during around them. I'm going to do that a couple of time, so it's a nice, clear defined line. So the next job, obviously, is to sort those out on going to use my jeweler's saw support the work on the bench. Pecas. I saw Andi I've attached to the class materials, a hints and tips booklet that will really help you get the best out of your soaring. I'm just going to run through a few of those. Now I'm going to make sure that I keep my work up. Put this end if it's down here is really not going to be supported properly. It needs to be up this section, so as much of the silver as possible. It supported on French take. But I can still get the blade up and down. I could still, but it's accessing the areas I want to cut. I will try my best to keep the blade upright because keeping it upright helps to turn the corners as smoothly as possible. Andi, I'm going to try and keep the blade facing forward. And rather than turning obey blade from side to side to turn the corners, I'm going to turn the silver more onto it, right? I think of it is a so machine needle with the needle still great up and down, and Morris said, well, for its for so machine. It definitely is going up and down in the same position. But try and keep it going up and down, same position as much as possible and feed the silver with material onto it. You also want to listen up the noise When you're storing, you want to hear a nice, smooth, arrhythmic sound rather harsh down that starts and stops. If you hear that harsher sound, it means that you're putting too much pressure on the blade on Did you are actually more likely to break the bait? And while I make the workers but more difficult yourself so that the blade do the work for you, all you need to do is hide it up and down. It will cut forward itself as you do so something to stop down the bottom here and there's that life smooth, rhythmic sound you want here you here. That's the results of me putting just a tie. Bit of pressure on the plate. Reader need Teoh Now I've got quite quickly, Teoh a corner there. I'd rather turn quite a a sharp corner. Rather be a curve. And to do that I'm going to with bouncer played up and down in position to keep it moving up and down. Spot Andi, turn the silver. As I do say, if you find as you doing this, the silver get stuck. It means if you actually tried to turn it a bit too quickly, so that it just slipped back. And then once it's in the right direction, get very good, - E . All right, way. Oh, okay. Right now, they're just that last little bit to do. But wait, because I'm used to doing this. I've been able to quit smoothly, moves the silver around. You might find that until you get us experiences that that you're going to have to stop and start a lot more to move the silver around has no bad thing. It's just experience. It's far better to take your time and be accurate. Rather try and rush it. Okay, so go. That's the 1st 1 Why is she saying with that one, you can see the outlines of shapes there. How that cost Iwas So do the same with this one as well. Andi, I'm actually going to start here on this one because that bubble, it's really close to the edge there. So it means what you have got should cut to get to bubbles. Just start right next thing here, right? - This is is it? Yes, it is a little bit more fiddly because it's a smaller piece of sheet toe hold onto looks. I left the first time in a video class, I have broken a saw blade to show you. It really does happen to anyone and you to everyone. So going to undo my saw do the first thing I saw Plate. Why should you? Late They continue. It's typical that saw Blade broke very, very close to the end. But it does give me the opportunity. Teoh, talk to you a little bit more about the sore blades. You won't be out to sea on the film because they are so small, but the teeth are holding the teeth. E sublets of teeth are pointing downwards. It's a bit like, Well, suppose like half a Christmas tree I'm joining a child would. Oh, so you want the teeth pointing down towards the handle, So just put that in the bottom of my you so band, this particular so frame. It's a new concept frame court, which is really nice and light to use on its got potentially wheel here so I can just fight easily. Put the attention on blade, if you are ever uncertain, is whether you put played in the right way, then just very carefully. Don't push and rub your finger, but very carefully. Just about. Sit from the handle up towards the top. If the blade feels rough, you question right way. If it feels smooth, that's how it feels this way, where you're stroking it in the direction that the the Teesta appointing. So if you should go up, it feels smooth. You've cashed in the wrong way around, so we'll see. So very my close with that. So I do I need to feed That's super laid back in again. The reason why it broke is that I wasn't being careful enough with that last little bet to hold on both sides of the cut line. And so one part lifted up a little bit too much. It twisted the blade so the Blake broke. Oh, if I go, I go chop too, so you can see I just had that little bit and halfway around that ball, that was all I have left to do that we have both earrings cut out. They are not an exact mirror image of each other. Please, Too little bubbles such a little bit closer together are so soldering, but they are coast enough to still make a lovely pair of earrings. The next thing I need to do is needed that cottage with the needle files 9. Bubbles Earrings - filing: Thies to cut out earrings. Actually, uh, when you hold him back to back a pretty good match, which is rather nice, considering that they won't produce him a template. So it softens. If I've used the same template to cut out two pieces of silver. It's just from laying out the disks and taking the time. Has you saw every time setting up the disks? I, despite those two moving a little bit closer together, the earrings are still more or less the same links which the same race than saying wits, which is actually, I think, the most important thing. However, there are some sore blade marks left around the edge for my soaring it out and some sections there. I can catch my my finger. They'll on a bit there, some sections and each smoothing out the bits. I can catch my finger. That are, is the section where I started and stopped the cutting for here. So it's not unusual or unexpected, as I got a bit of a jacket piece there that needs sorting out. So what? Little files. Legal files come in a lovely range off shapes, a many of them as well with tape. It shapes as well. Second fittings. Very tight spaces on. Do you want to use the shape that best fits the shape of the silver that you're firing? A. Really useful one is a ba Rhett shape, Um, and a direct file is a long sigh Tapit triangular shape with a safety back. So it means that when you are trying to file of a tight space, the there's nothing on the other side of file that's going to cause damage onto the opposite Saif Silver. So probably going to use this one. The most might stop over to a curved one or the flat file, but could see how you get on with this. Remember that the files work and that directions was my point. Going like so work in that direction I was going to sweep across. First of all, make sure that everything's nice and smooth, and then see if there any areas that need a little bit more tidying up. You can see this borek file is small enough, and we sharp enough edges to be able to get into the dips in between. So I worked all my way around that shape, so it's not smoother. Looks a lot nicer. There are a couple of sections, though, Where I want to remove a little bit more silver. Um, actually, more main section. Just just here. Where that silver, That margin there was silver around the bubble is a little bit wider, so I'm just going to file a little bit more there. Here's a little bit more on that side as well. Well, the section just there that margins silver is a little bit wider. Shame it down a little bit. Good. So I went to the same to this one. Um and I'm also actually shade us now. There are few pers on the back here with silver is being pushed over a little bit. So I'm just going to use the file hardship 45 degree angle on. Just sweep around the edges. He might see the edges appearing a bit brighter. As I do this, the file comes in contact with him. Just to get rid of those birds. Being formed is I've been storing cutting, so I'm going to do the same to this one on. Then we'll be ready to move on to the wise 10. Bubbles Earrings - preparing the earwires: I've cut to 4.5 centimeter links off the North 0.8 millimeter or 20 gauge stays silver wire , and I'm now going to start preparing them to tell them into the ear wise. The earrings. First thing I'm going to do is to hammer one end of each wire because that will not only give a nicer finish on the back of the earrings, but also makes for a nice a stronger soldier. Join because you then have an increased surface area joint between the wire on the back of the earrings, so I'm going to use the crashing hammer. But this with the silver on the bench, block on top of that, the cushion to give the noise down, just hovering the end. And if I show you a comparison, the to moving around in the light, you can see the light bouncing off. This one's being flash and out a lot more than the the one that's still around, so that one is almost ready to be sold on to back. Do the same to this one we care. So one more thing to do, I'm going to use the flat needle files just to file around the edge of thes. Make sure that there were no sharp h is that they look nice and smooth, but some happy those 11. Bubbles Earrings - soldering the earwires: four hearings over to soldering stations so that I can sort of the ear wise onto the back when nearly finished. Now, I actually changed my mind about which way up I'm going to have these earrings sometimes designed like that. They will make you change your mind as you work your way through them. Once the shapes were cut out on DNI turned up with the file. I just decided I preferred them with e now our end at the top on the wider end at the bottom So you can see I've put some permanent markers and Sharpie marks on their show me where I want to the ear wise to bay. So I used to have a bit of a reminder something to aim for once your soldering on don't why the shopping marks of burn off before you get sued The soldering temperature so they won't inhibit the flow of the soldier. Also got to hear wise You just saw me hammering on down here when they're on one there. Do promise There are two small pieces off easy solder, but as always, they are too small to see very clearly on soldering brick. Remember that we're using Easy soldier as well. You'd medium soldier to soldier the bubbles onto the silver sheet by using easy soldier for this stage, we're not going to risk re melting of the medium soldier. So he's gonna use, uh, move rather one here. Why? Out of the way? Because I don't want that to heat up unnecessarily on and oops! Going to She did it the right way round. Hoat. One of the Iwas in reverse action tweeze is on board and dip it in the flux. Even just about See and talk for you. Well, im going to melt one of the pieces of soldier onto the bottom of that year. Why so So does on there. Now if I put a torch down on and show you you hear Wasit has it just been? So did I Got to see with help from a comparison that that was a soldier on the end of this one. So I'm going to reheat this. I'm going to heat up the hearing, hold that in place on the soldier will float from the ear wire to the back of the hearing. But I do need to make sure I put a bit more heat into the bigger, better silver Smaller to encourage the soldiers of flow in the right direction. - Hopefully you saw the nice liquid flash of first, so because the soldier flowing and as it melted I've kept everything still until it a lost that right color and gone dull again that show me of things side on. And it's now or one piece. So that is one hearing, sir Politan quench pot. I do like that sound that sizzle and pop Is there the hotter metal goat into the cold water ? They get second here. Why do exactly the same? So tip it into the flux. Hold it All the pieces soda so it melts is on CNN Tijuana. Just remove the heat to move that hearing back to where I wanted to be a little bit. There we go. Sounds everything gets the right temperature. The soldier flows nicely. So that's the second hearing again that we're going quench pot both of the year rings will go in the pickle to clean up the last bits of organization and show you how to finish off the Iwas 12. Bubbles Earrings - finishing the earwires: I've just taken the earrings out of the pickle pot on and given them a rinse onda dry on their now, ready for the ear wise to be finished. First thing I'm going to do issues and I don't your applies to make certain that they are nice and smooth and straight on that. No, no kinks. And the wire that Sir would repeat unsightly. That's our job dung on. The next thing is that I want to make sure that they are the same length because although they were cut the same length, yes, I thought so. I've actually sold it, but you have to see I sold it this one a little bit higher on the back of the earring. Thin that one. So it's resulted in this a y being ever so ever so so lightly longer so making sure they're lined up at the bottom. I'm just going to use the wire cutters to trim off. That little bit is only a teeny tiny bit. It may not even shocked clearly what's just about just about showing up on the screen there so tiny, but we're going to scrap pot, remember, nothing ever truly gets wasted I'm going to file the ends of the why now during this to make sure that there's no sharp edges on the wire that would make them very uncomfortable. Toe where you can do this either at this stage or you couldn't do. It s so one of the last stages of making the air wise. That's always get some. Use your fingers as much as your eyes to double check that. It's nice and smooth. I tend to do much good to see the Siri twisting round. It's such a quite often leave the file going in the same direction. Andre Tate, The hearing. I'm happy with that. I'm going to use the such Mandrell, the middle sexual set manual. Spend the ear wise. I'm going to hold. I want that. Well, I kind of thought maybe a bit longer. There we go, start bending the UAE around my fingers some and then just double check that I'm happy with . The banks decided that I didn't want these hearings to be too long compact with that, but they would actually work. Just as nice is a much longer pair of earrings with an ear wired made of maybe up to six centimeters, 0.8 millimeter white or a matter of taste and your own personal taste. So I'm happy with that drop. So I'm going to keep the front of the wire as it is and just hold it in place. Andi, use my finger here just to pull the back ground set. Finish us off the shape without altering the length at the front. Has one looking a lot more like an earring. Now, we think they look a little bit like miniature spoons when they're in this form has hoot them out. So just going to start spending this Andi, Then check. Check them up against each other. This one is so like longer. So I need to use up a little bit of wire front, hold it in place and just with my thumb, bend it down a little bit. So shortened it a fraction. And that's enough. I'm happy with that. Blanks so again pushed him place. Hold it. Don't move the front fearing anymore. So I'm happy with that length, but use up wire at the back. Two more things to Dio. I'm going to use the, um oh, flat nosed pliers. I've got here, Andi going to hold the wire so that the end of the wire is flush with the supplies here. Just about see it poking through. So I always do this job with same hair applies always you supplies as as a guide to how much of flick outs I know my my earrings much. I was putting that up with ever so slightly to flick out the end. It makes the earrings look a lot more professional. It also helps hearings to stay in because to come out of your ear, they really have to change through quite a few changes in direction to be under four all the way out. So one more thing to do before I polished the earrings, and that is to give them a bit more strength. At the moment, this bones you shape could be pulled out of shape. So what I'm going to do is give it more strength by hammering this front section here. So I'm a bit of a room for the bench block. Well, that either cushion, I'm going to hold the ear wire so the hearing is hanging off the side, so it's not going to get damaged using the punishing hammer. Just hammering that front section was that gives it the strength that needs. We're very nearly there. Last things I need to do is to polish the earrings. I'm going to put them in my top, Aisha. Alternatively, you could use a polishing cloth to posies up nicely. You could also, if you wanted to give thes oxidize patina, darker patina. Andi, if you have a look at my car, your silver class, you'll find the instructions on how to do that. 13. Bubbles Earrings - final thoughts: here the earrings or nicely polished up as you can see, the layers air silver on the bubbles. The distance on top of the silver sheet helped create a really nice texture without using any hammers or texture punches. The inspiration for these hearings came from a pendant made about a year ago, a pendant, as you can see here, with a lobby pile set of the bottom and bubbles of discs above it. As you can see, I've given dependence a oxidize and antiqued patina that I think really gives a very different look to the design. And he could, if you wanted to give this affect your silver as well. Have a look out for the car, your silver class. Remember that. Although I cut just myself, you can buy them pre mate, and you could even decide not to use circles. A tour you could cut shapes out a silver sheet abstract Thank your shapes have built them up with a mosaic on a piece of a larger sheet in the back. I don't hope that you've enjoyed the class. I'm really looking forward to seeing what you make. So do you remember to upload your finished project photo so we can all live by them. Do download the equipment list. I'd also the sheet that's going to help you get the best out of your jeweler's saw, and it'll be great if you could leave review to help other students. Thank you for watching.