Beginner Pattern Making: How to Draft a T-shirt Pattern | Kathryn Roberts | Skillshare

Beginner Pattern Making: How to Draft a T-shirt Pattern

Kathryn Roberts, professional pattern cutter

Beginner Pattern Making: How to Draft a T-shirt Pattern

Kathryn Roberts, professional pattern cutter

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13 Lessons (1h 23m)
    • 1. Introduction

      1:21
    • 2. Today's Tools

      2:32
    • 3. Today's Measurements

      3:43
    • 4. Understanding the Pattern & Terminology

      3:18
    • 5. Drafting the Body

      14:35
    • 6. How to Draft the Sleeve

      11:55
    • 7. How to Draft the Neckband

      6:07
    • 8. Tracing & Truing the Pattern

      9:15
    • 9. Adding Seam Allowance, Notches & Labels

      7:35
    • 10. Creating a Back Yoke

      6:32
    • 11. Lowering the Front Neck

      2:37
    • 12. Creating a V-Neck

      13:03
    • 13. Final Thoughts & Class Project

      0:53
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Project

About This Class

Drafting a T-shirt pattern is a fantastic project for a beginner pattern maker.
It's more complex than the skirt block draft but not as complex as the bodice block draft and makes a brilliant introduction to drafting for knits and jerseys!

This class covers the whole process, from the basics to some amendments you can do to customise your T-shirt.

What you'll learn:

  • How to use basic pattern making tools
  • Basic pattern making terminology
  • How to measure for this draft
  • How to draft the T-shirt body, sleeve (long & short) and neckband
  • How to add a back yoke
  • How to change the neckline

If you don't have all the tools already then that's ok, all you really need is:

  1. A pattern ruler
  2. A tape measure
  3. A pencil & rubber
  4. Some pattern paper

If you want to find any of the tools that I've used in this class you can find them in my shop
And you can find the pattern shaper (yellow ruler) here.

You can find the class notes which include the step by step instructions and a standard size chart of all the body measurements that you'll need to draft the T-shirt pattern in the class project section.

The T-shirt that you'll draft is a loose, comfortable fit with a high neck, I love mine and wear it all the time!

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Meet Your Teacher

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Kathryn Roberts

professional pattern cutter

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Transcripts

1. Introduction: Hi, I'm Kate, Professional Palin cutter and teacher. I've been working at the Palin cutter it since 2014 and have been lucky enough to work some of the top names in the industry, including Peter Fellatio and Emilio Victor. One of the things that I love about patting cutting is that everyone has their own way to do it. And I'm a really firm believer that anyone can learn to do it. You just have to find a way that works for you in this class. I'm gonna introduce you to some tools and show you what measurements you need. And then I'm gonna show you how to draft T shirt pattern from scratch. It is a fairly high neck T shirt pattern on. Guy will show you hash draft a long sleeve as well as a short sleeve on. It also comes with a little neck band that you stretch onto pattern. It's a really good place to start if you're a beginner passing cutter, because it's a fairly simple draft and you don't have anything like a bus start or way starts toe kind of complicate things. You just do a flat Josie draft and I find that if people have done this, then when they move on to draft woven. But we even pattern, they tend Teoh understand drafting much easier. Once we've drafted the block, I'm gonna show you how to trace it off and outs and semen outs and then label up a couple of things like grain line and caught information. Then I'll show you a couple of quick and moments that you could do to customize it a bit more. So we'll go through how to change the neckline slightly. Onda How to add your 2. Today's Tools: the's of the tools that you're going to need. Obviously, in an ideal world, he would have a one of them. But I know that some people are trying to just make do with what they've got on. That's absolutely fine. There are only a few that are really, really essential. Main thing that I would say, is that you need a pattern Rula, whether it's part of Moscow like this or a set square or run Jacob or even a pattern shape , then you know it's fine either one. As long as you've got a line at a 90 degree angle to your flat edge, that's really key thing here. The other really key thing you're gonna need is a pencil. So you will see me that I'll be doing my demonstrations in a felt it. Markham on its much is really badly, so it's just a really good demonstration of why we shouldn't be dropping in a felt tip marker. But, of course I'm gonna do it so you guys can see the line reigniting clearly. The other thing about the pencil is that it's nice to have a mechanical pencil, so one that you can click on the lead comes out that just keeps everything nice and sharp. And that means we're lying to be nice and thin, so you don't have to keep sharpening your pencil where every five minutes you'll also need a rubber course. Earl. Human women mistakes. And it was about. But I also need a tape measure. We're gonna need somebody measurements, so you're definitely going to need to take them you need, but it's not. Essential is a pattern, nacho. This makes little nachos on the side of the paper to help you in your sewing. I'm But of course I haven't got one. You can just make a little snip with scissors as long as you can draw in those. Not sure that's fine. Another thing is a meter Rueland. If you're gonna do any drafting, you should really get me to relax. But if you haven't got one, then you can make do without it. But, yeah, I really do recommend getting on me to rely, especially metal ones are really good. We'll also need some paper scissors and you'll need some pattern paper over. CEO should be blank. This is my draft. I did earlier. The last thing that you're gonna need is the instruction. So I like to print my now and scribble things on them as I go, You can see I've got all my measurements here, and I've ticked off my appoints as I've gone through them. I've even written out my calculations. It's really helpful to be able to do that. And then you know that you've got your notes. And if you go wrong at any point, you could go back and just, like, double tackle your calculations. Yeah, they're really nice toe have printed out. Yeah, that's all the tools that we're going to need day in terms of pattern paper. You're probably need two or three meters on, but of course, we need African stuff to 12 0 t shirt. You make it 3. Today's Measurements: As I said, this is a nice, simple job, so we don't need loads of measurements. We just need a couple of key one. First One is our bust freshmen. So this is asked the conference bust measurement. It goes all the way around the body through the bus points on. When you're measuring this on yourself, just make sure that your tape measure is nice and straight. If it's like double down, you're not going to get an accurate measurement. Next, we need our nape to waist. So our neighbor on the body sits here on the back neck. And if you have a little feel of your neck, you'll feel there's a little ball there. That's what we call the neck. So to measure that on the body, measure down from the ball on the back of your neck to your natural waste. Another body measurement that we need is our cross back measurement, so it's fairly self explanatory is literally across back. It's the measurement between way or two. Armholes would sit on a natural fitted garment. We start from the nape and we measure down 10 centimeters and then we measure across the body so you can see here that my dummy arm hole would sit somewhere around here. It's wired measure from this point to the same point on this side. Next couple of measurements are ones that I think are quite tricky to take accurately, and they can really go wrong easily. So I prefer to take them from a size chart on, then 12 them up on amend them if they need to be amended. But 1st 1 is the next conference. So here most people would go around the upper part of the neck. That's not really what we want. I think that's where people go wrong by a lot of time. What we want is this conference around here where your neck mutual shoulder so it's a little bit further down and it's sort of standing. The tape measure on it end like this, Another one again. I like to take this from the size chance because it's tricky to measure and get right is the arm hole depth. But if you do want to measure on yourself and you basically get umbrella and you pop it and Iran, but you don't want it all the way up into your armpit, because you will have an arm hole sitting there. So if you lure it down a bit to where you would naturally have a comfortable arm, hope that's what you want to sitting next. You could grab your tape measure and measure from your shorter point down to where the ruler is sitting. So you can see here is really hard to take, and on yourself is pretty much impossible. So again he's just take that one from the size chart and then just 12 up on Amanda if it needs amending. So there is all about body measurements that we need, But we need to also decide on a couple of garment measurements festival. We need to know what I finished T shirt length is gonna be on. We're gonna measure this from the name. It's really just personal preference. So for me, I like my T shirts fairly short and boxy because I wear a lot of high waisted jeans, so I'm gonna finish mind about 53 centimeters down. That's about that. The other thing we need to decide on is our sleeve length on personal preference. Really, I like for a long sleeve to be somewhere between 50 and 60 centimeters. 50 is about that on sixties about their on, and I would do that on myself. You could see that 50 would probably be about here, kind of like bracelet length, and then 60 would be down to my wrist full length and then for a short sleeve T shirt. I like, Do you mind about 18 centimeters long? That's kind of similar to where this one is sitting. So those are all the measurements that we need? Like I said, that is a size 12 provided. So you grabbing regiments from there, especially your next conference on your arm, hold up to very, very key measurements. So if there are wrong, then the whole draft is gonna be thrown off. 4. Understanding the Pattern & Terminology : There are a few things that I just wanted. Teoh, explain about the draft that when we're drafting, you're not working completely blind. First for our T shirt draft is a nice, simple one, which is lovely. If you're a beginner drafter, then this is a great place to start because you've not got any weird darks or anything that might confuse you so you can see here. Our friend and back are the same except for the neck, and we draft on the half. So this line is our center front and center back. Same thing on our sleeve. We also draw on the half to this line. Here is the center of our sleeve. The last piece that we're gonna draft is our neck band, which we stretch on. It's essentially just like a rectangle home, and it's fine to stretch on and not do on the biased because it's Jersey. So it's not a woven. Its admitted. There are a few key phrases or terms that I'm going to say throughout the class on, I just really quickly run through those so that you're not confused or lost as we're drafting. The 1st 1 is to square a line that basically means to create a line at a 90 degree angle to another line. Another one that you're going to hear me say is to offset airline. That basically just means to draw a parallel line to another line. Both of these things will use our pattern, master or panel relate to do, and I will explain house to them as we drop. Then we have things like notches, which are little slips of paper or little marks on the pattern that we use. Teoh make a little snip in the fabric when we cut it out to help us win re stitching, We notch things like seem Lohan's on any sewing positions. So when restrict stretching on our next band, we would not. Our shoulders are center front and center back and then, of course, things like sleeves. And he's not choose anything like that. Another thing that you'll hear me say quite a lot is to check the runoff pattern, so that is essentially just checking that the scenes or the curbs on your patterns are nice and smooth. There's no corners or were kings or any little blips in them along the way, specifically when we're drawing two pieces together. So on this pattern, we check the run of the line on our shoulder on green power. Shoulders are in front of that Children together to check that arm hole has a nice run, three to check, but it's a nice smeared car. There's no corners. Barrett meat or any weird like kinks in the line on the same kind of thing on neckline would put our shoulder together to check that we have a nice, smooth curve on that neckline. You will also hear me trying quite a lot about sleep. He's so I just wanted to really quickly explain why we need it on a woven garment on why we don't need it on a Jersey garment. Essentially, at the job of ease on a woven garment is to create extra wit. As we go around the shoulder here, you can see we're nice and round. We don't have a weird corner shoulder to we need that extra width on a wave of government. Otherwise, it's gonna pull, and it's not gonna fit very nicely. Well, on a Jersey garment, it's stretching, so we don't need to do that. It stretches over shoulder and should mold nicely. So we need either none or very little ease in the top of our head. Great. So now that we are familiar with the pattern, we know what we're doing. We know how the pattern works. We know all about terms with God, tools. We've got our measurements. Let's get cracking with actual drafting. 5. Drafting the Body: So grab your instructions That could be really helpful to jot things down And any calculations as we go, you can see abuse mine a couple of times. They're a bit messy, but you can see have also take them off as I go, which is really helpful. You don't get lost in any points. The great thing about this block is that it's done on the half. So this line here is our center front, as we said, and then this is our full line of us leave. So what we do first is our body were gonna start by drawing in this line and then marking on some points. Alloy it so fast, fast grew to the left hand side of your page and draw a line straight down at the top of this line. You want a mark on 0.0? You don't do it right at the top because you want a little bit of space up here. So I'm gonna go a little bit down and I'm gonna mark on 0.0 that then we can mark on 0.1 on our note. Tell us that zero toe one is our nape to waist. So my nape to waist is 38. So I'm just gonna go 2.0 and measure down 38 centimeters mark on 0.1. Next, take a mark on point to it tells us in our notes that 0 to 2 is our finished garment like so I'm gonna do mind. He showed 53 centimeters long, So that's a cute little crop sort of T shirt finishing around the top hip. So I measure down from 0.0 53 cents meters and then I mark on point to then week mark on 0.3. And it tells us that 0 to 3 is our hot arm hold debt plus one centimeter. My arm hold up 21 to 21 plus one is trying to to. So we go to Syria on any measure down 22 on I'm off on 220.3. That would mark on 0.4, and it tells us that four is half the measurement of 0 to 3. So I said 0 to 3 for me. 22. Half of that is 11. Make mark 11 and then I mark on point for next week. A mark on 0.5 point five is 1/4 of 0 to 11 u mass. Anything like mine? I have to always do this on a calculator. So that would be 11. Divided by four is equal to 2.75 So agree to zero, and I measure down 2.75 mark 1.5. Once you've marked on 0.5, then we can square alive across the page from each of these points. I'm going to do this using my iPad, a master on my 90 degree line here. It is exactly a 90 degree line to my flat edge here. So line up my 90 degree line, my original line, and then I dragged my ruler up until it intersects with the point that I want to square a line from. So I'm gonna start with 0.0. I'm just gonna square a line through it across the full length of my Rila and then do the same thing at play five from the same thing. I'm full and then again at 0.3 and appoint one. And then also at 0.2, you might find that you're gonna have to extend these lines further. But we could do that when we get to it. So let's take off the point that we've done. We've done 123456 on gun 0.7 because we squared across from 0.25 Next become Mark on 0.6 and it tells us that 0 to 6 is 1/5 of our neck measurement plus north 60.25 So my neck measurement is 37 divided by five. Plus North 2.25 is equal to 7.65 So I'm going around that up to 7.7, and all I'm gonna do is great 0.0 here and measure along this line that we squared could mark on 0.6 at 7.7. Have a gay. Next. We're gonna mark on 0.7. We're gonna do that by swearing a line up from 0.6 and it's gonna be one centimeter long next week and walking out back neck cook going from 0.7 point zero because this is gonna be a fold line or are sent back line. We want to keep 0.0 at a 90 degree angles. We don't get any weird points up here. So we're gonna do is use our pattern master drawing that curved. You want to find a nice curve that hits 90 degree angle there and then curved slowly and gently up 2.7. I can't quite get a good cup, pat master. So I'm going to try other Real and I've got a patent shaper. You just kind of wanna pay around until you get a nice cup. You see that there's quite a nice cup, starts at a 90 degree angle and then gently slopes up to seven. And then that line there is my new back neck. So again we can take off as we go to be marked on 0.6 and we've square 0.7 on. We've drawn in our back neck of next week in market in a 0.8. So tells us at 3 to 8 is equal to half of our cross back plus nor 80.5. So my cross back is 34.4, divided by two, is it with 17.2 plus no 0.5 17.7. So I grew 2.3. I can measure along my line here, 17.7 on my mark on 0.8 from 0.8, We're going to square a line straight up the page that intersects with the line, starting out 0.4 on the line, starting at 0.5. So again, on this real, I've also got a 90 degree line here, so I'm gonna line up my 90 degree line with my original line 3 to 8, and then this straight edge here is exactly a 90 degree angle. So I can just draw along that where our line, where our new line hits the line. That started up 0.4 mark on a 0.9 and where it hits the line. That started a 0.5 mark on 0.10 next week, a mark on 0.11. And it tells us that 10 to 11 is north 110.5. So what I'm gonna do is go to 0.10 and measure across nor 0.5 away from the centre back. Marc on a 0.11 then we can draw in our shoulder line. What we're gonna do is join up 0.11 point seven in a straight line, and there we go. Our shoulder mark on 0.12 we're gonna do is measure across from 0.3, and it tells us that 3 to 12 is 1/4 about bust measurement plus to see em. So my bust measurement is 88. Divide that by four 22 plus two. CME is 24. So again it could grow 2.3 and measure across 24. You can see my line isn't gonna be quite long enough. So what I'm gonna do is extend that line out a little bit more and then from three measure along with 24 centimeters and Marco on a 240.12 then from 0.12 we're going to square a line down That should intersect with the line that started a point, too. So just like we had to do here when we extended the line, we're gonna have to do that. Down here is well for your waistline and also for a headline. Then we can go over 2.12. Line up your 90 degree line on your pan rula dry, get across until you hit 0.12 and then extend a line down and again, it's not quite long enough, so you can either extend it down with your rula or if you want to be more precise, grab You'll meet Arena, joining up to the edge of your patent. Rula, line up your 90 degree nine with your original line and then drag Rula that you're treating as one all the way to 0.12 so that your metal ruler hits 0.12. Then we can draw a line straight down here into sex without hem, so it's starting to look a little bit like a pattern. Now it's great where the two lines intersect. On here, we're gonna marker on 20.13. The last thing we need to do on our back pattern is Mark in our arm hole. So order to do is draw a line that goes from 0.12 3.9 up 2.11 and again here. We're not shaping our citing. So we want to have a roughly 90 degree angles that we don't get any weird corners or points when you need my Panama States Start they saw You can see. I've got a nice curve here that goes starts at roughly a 90 degree angle. There was nicely up 2.9 and a nice smooth Have, then we want to try not to 0.11. So I know that if I do that, it's not gonna work because I'm not gonna hit and I'm gonna get a weird corner. So again, we want this to be a nice, smooth curve. I could do something like this. So you go from nine starts a little bit further on on the lower line, follows the line slightly and then goes away up 2.11. But the thing that we need to remember here is that our shoulder is also going to join to another. Shoulders began. Don't have any were corners here, So I dearly this angle here from 0.11 coming 2.9 also needs to be a 90 degree angle. So I just had a little guidelines. What I'm gonna do is draw in a 90 degree line there. If you're finding that you're angles, really don't work here, then you can also extend 0.11 a little bit further along the line that started from 0.10 just to get a really nice curve in there, or you can make it a little bit shorter if you need to. But the way that I'm gonna do it is just drawing a little guideline here and then If I were to cover this up, you can see I wouldn't really hit that 90 degree line a towards way or so. What I'm gonna do is I'm gonna do it into steps. I'm gonna keep my line from 0.9 fairly straight. I'm not just gonna do this by hand. So if I follow on my line that started there, I think it was fairly straight and then have more of a curve at top that comes into my 90 degree line so you can kind of see that day. So the top, even for five mil is 90 degrees, Which means I'll have a slightly nicer run. I won't get corner onto my arm. Hold that. So there we have our on hold. The loss of meanings do is mark on our front neck. So to do that, we need to mark on a 0.14 which is somewhere around here on our instructions. Tell us that 0 to 14 is equal toe fifth of our neck measurement minus 1.5. So mind my neck measurement is 37 divided by five 7.4 minus 1.5, 5.9. So I'm gonna come up to zero here, and I'm gonna measure down 5.9 and mark on 0.14. Now, this pattern is quite a high neck pattern. If you do wanna bring it a little bit lower just below a 0.14 by centimeter or two. But I'm gonna need my fatty height because I like quite a high night on a box of it. So now that we've marked on 0.14 which is destroy an hour front neck curb going from 0.7 to 14 and again just like we did with 140.0, we need tohave a roughly 90 degree anger angle coming out from 900.14. I'm gonna give up hot Moscow to do this. You can see if I line up this curve here with 0.7 on 14. I get a really nice from neck of their starts at a 90 degree angle here and then gently slopes up 2.7. There we have it. That is the body of our T shirt, Patton. Like I said before, the body of the front and the back of the same all apart from the neckline. So when we traces off trace all along the centre front or sent back the hem side seam arm, hold shoulder. And then you pick either the front neck or the back. Last thing we're gonna do here is we're just gonna leben out, sent a front sent back Ken waste on sighting. And let's not forget the fact, and that is the 40 don't. 6. How to Draft the Sleeve: second part of our block is our sleeve. You've got enough paper on this side of your block. Then you can draft it here and again, like on our diagram. It's drafted on the Hoff. So are front and back. Sleep of the same. You really need half of your sleeve with two draft. So to start us off, we're gonna do a line on the right hand side of the page on the top of this line. We're gonna mark on 0.15. Then we can martorana 0.16 and our instructions. It tells us that 15 to 16 is equal to half of the line 0 to 3 plus one. So I know from 0 to 3 was 22 centimeters. So half of 22 is 11 plus. One is 12. So I'm gonna go up 2.15. I'm gonna measure down 12 cm on mark on a 120.16. Then we can mark on 0.17 on 0.15 to 17 is are finished sleeve length. So I'm gonna draft a long sleep on a short sleeve. If you want anyone to do one, that's fine. But I do find that it's quite I have to have both got option. So for me, I'm gonna do my sleeve 50 centimeters long. So I rushed down 0.15 and I make Mark at 50. That's sort of like a bracelet, like for me, which is quite nice. I'm if you want to do a little bit longer, you could go for, like, 58. 60. If you wanna feel like I'm gonna go for bracelet from points 16 and 17 we want to square across the page. So again, for my 90 degree line on my original line, drag it up to the hits 900.16 and then scratch across the page and then the same thing from 0.17 Next. This is a complicated parts. We want a marker on 0.18 and we know that it's on this line from points 16 but we don't know what distances from 0.16 distance that we do know is the distance from 15. So all we need to do is calculate this distance here and then rotate our ruler until this line into sex, the lines dying from 15. I'm gonna use my parents shape. Let's do this because it's a long rule. It starts zero and goes all the way up to 40. Where is my had a master start zero here and then goes up to 21 half 21 a half there. So I just find it easier with this ruler. You can also use your meter roula. You've got that or you could just do the math and do on our own. But I just find this easier. So our instructions tell us that 15 to 18 is equal to the measurement of line 11 to 12 purse, 1.5 cm. So 11 to 12. We don't have that line yet, so let's just draw that in. I don't measure that. I'm getting 20.2. I'm just gonna drop that down enough myself. So 20.2 from 11 to 12 May plus 1.5 is equal 21.7. So, just to repeat, I now know that 15 to 18 is equal to 21.7, so all I can what I need to do is put 0.15 and rotate my ruler until 21.7 into sex with this line that starts a 0.16. There we are. That's 21.7 there. What I'm gonna do now is just drawer in my line, going from 0.15 down on that under that, this is 0.18. Next, we need to square down from 0.18 to hit the line. That started up points. 17. To do this, I'm gonna use more meat. Rula on my patent Rula as one. So I lined up my 90 degree line with my original line, that dragon until my meat rula its 900.18. And then I come down the page that where it hit the line Starting 0.17. We're gonna mark on 0.19. Then we can mark on 0.20 and it tells us that 19 to 20 is 1/3 of 17 to 19. So let's measure this line. I'm getting 18.6. So 18 points, six divided by three is 6.2. So, according to do is come here and measure from 0.19 on mark on point at 6.2. Then we can drawing a line from 20 to 18. It's starting to look a little bit like sleep. Now. The last thing to do is market in our sleeve. Head of Muslim account of a straight sleep head like this to be needs mark on 0.21. And it tells us that 18 to 21 is equal to 1/3 of 18. 15. So if I remember correctly, my measurement from 18 15 is 21.7. Divide that by three is equal to 7.2. So I'm gonna go to 0.18 and then get a measure up 7.2 to make a mark there on a major label . That 21. Now we could mark an hour curve from 18 to 21. We're gonna cover under the line on 21 to 15. We're gonna curve over the line here. We want to curve underlined by no 150.6. Give myself with a guide. I'm just gonna draw in a line that's six mil below it with parallel. Then I can start drawing in my curve. I'm gonna use my pattern, my patent shape, to do this. What a nice gentle curve going from 18 to 21 That hits your guideline here at 0.6 blue. Something like that. Then from 21 to 15 curving above the line way. Want that to be 1.75 above. So again, just like we did below. I'm gonna mark in a guideline above You won't break 75 Then again, we can use our curve on our patent related to draw that in. He wants have a nice to meet car going from your undercut and then curving above the line at 0.15 we want to have a 90 degree angle. So again, I'm just gonna draw in a little a little guideline that so I can see when I bring my rule up. I've got a nice smooth curve going from the undercover. That 3.21 up, hitting my guideline here and then hitting my nine to degree in line there. Say, I just drooled that in and then you can see a lovely shape sleeve had curve there. That would be our long sleeve. Next, I can quickly show you how to change your long sleeve into a short sleeve. So starting from 0.15 we're gonna mock on 0.22 on our instructions. Tell us that 15 to 22 is our required sleeve length, so I'm gonna do my short sleeve, But 18 centimeters long so I'm just going to 0.15 and I measure down 18 centimeters on my mark on 180.22 from 0.22. We're gonna swear a line across. So I take my 90 degree line on my match up my original line. Square a line across the page. Then where we intersect the line from 18 to 19 we're gonna mock on 190.23 just like we did here. With our in the line. We don't really want a square sleeve. Spit to blocking and have any shaped it. So we need to draw in a line that marks in our underarm. We could go with the airline. We'd rear in here from 18 to 20 but I still think this is gonna be a bit too wide. So the measurement that you mark in from 0.23 differs depending. What sleeve length you have been for 18 centimeters. I find that 1.5 to 2 C. M. It's great. So I'm gonna do you mind 1.5 a great 0.23. And I measure crops on my line 1.5 cm on a mock on 0.24 and then I just want to connect up 0.24 point 18. And then that's my new under online. The last thing that we need double track here is that I was sleeve head fits into our arm home. So you want to start by great grabbing your tape measure, measuring your lines here. Remember that this is a curve, so we can't measure it flat. We need to measure it without tape, measure up on the edge like this and then slowly walking along the lines. So my bottom curve from 21 to 18 7.2 so that I can come to 0.12. Measure along this line 7.2 on this notch here is gonna match with my notch here at 0.21 next month. Sleeve head. So from 0.15 I'm gonna walk my tape measure along with my nice curve of my sleeve. Head way down 2.21 getting 15.7. And then here I can merge it down from 0.11 point nine or notch. I'm going 15.2. That's fine. I've got tiny bit of ease up there, but that's absolutely fine. I wouldn't wanna have any more than 0.8 ease up here because this is on the heart. So again, you're gonna have it there. Which means you have a 1.6 total. I did get Josie. Don't really need ease. Soon I tried to get you ease to a real minimum here. I'm finding that you've got loads than there's something gone off with your proportions. I'm you can dio move this line in, but make sure that you've still got enough length in your bicep to fit around your bicep Or just try redrawing in your arm hole and double check all of your measurement. So that would be our draft. You see, we've got back body, our front of back neck, arm hole, and then we've got our sleeve. Got our long sleeve. I was short sleeve. I've got a lovely sleeve head in there, which fits beautifully into her arm. Hold without 7. How to Draft the Neckband: last piece left a draft is our neck band because we need something to finish off our neck. So I'm gonna do mine extend to meet a wide finished. It's gonna be on the fold, so my piece is gonna be two cents meters wide. I've got a lovely bit of extra space here in the middle, so I'm just gonna draw it in there. If you need to get a second piece of paper, then that's fine, too. Fasting fast. Just gonna draw a line up my page. I'm just gonna do it length to start with, just to give me something to work with, someone the other bottom. I'm gonna square a line away. I'm gonna make a mock at two centimeters is from that I'm going to draw another line up across the page to community usual. Meet Arena on square it. Or you could just offset it from your original line using your guidelines on your pattern, Rula. So I can see here. I've got my two cents meet a guideline that not shop my original one. Which means that my flattered is exactly a to see em away from my original line. Neck band starts up shoulder scene goes all the way around the front hits the centre front . There's back up around the center front and hits the other shoulder. From there, it curves down the back neck, hits the centre back and then it curves back up the other side of the neck and hits the shoulder again. It's really important that the seam is on the shoulder because otherwise you're gonna have a really lumpy bits on your sent back. Wasn't front, which we obviously don't want. The other thing to think about without Neck Band is that we stretch it on because you've got a straight piece that curves around top edge of the curve will naturally need to be smaller than the bottom edge. So it's get around that we stretch it on slightly because our front neck is obviously bigger than our back neck. We stretch it on different amounts for different sections, so for our back we're going to stretch it on by north 0.5 CN and for our front, we're gonna stretched on by no 0.7 cm. So that means that our pattern piece will need to be nor 0.7 centimeters smaller on the heart with front net no 0.5 centimeters smaller on the hearth for the back neck. So first we need to do is measure our front and back neck. So again it's on the curve. We can matter of fact, we have to measure it with our tape measure on the edge like this and walk it around the curve, getting 11.4. Write that on that and then at the back 7.9, all right, so starting at our shoulder will make this edge here, the scene we can mark on each sections. Then we'll know how long our next man needs to be. So it started the shoulder here and, let's say, stitching it all the way along our front neck to our center front. So our front neck measures 11.4. But for stretching this on by no 0.7 cm to 11.4 minus no, 0.7 is 10.7 from my edge here. I'm gonna measure up 10.7 like a little mark that then our next mind would go back up the other side of the centre front, so that's gonna be exactly the same. 10.7 from, Oh, Mok. We made that. We're gonna measure up again 10.7, and then that would be I was shoulder. So then, from our shoulder, it goes back down the other side, the side that we haven't drawn off our scent back over back neck. We know that Ah, back neck is 7.9 and we know that we're gonna stretch on by No, quick five. So it's 7.9 minus, nor 0.5 is 7.4. So from our little mark we made, we're gonna measure up 7.4 c n and then that would be are sent back. Then it would stitch back up the other side of the center back to the shoulder. So again, that's just gonna be the same great mile mark here and measure up 7.4. I make mock that from Mark we just made, which is gonna swear a line across to the other side that would be our shoulder. So now let's just mark this in. This is our shoulder. We said that this was our center front. This is our other shoulder. This is our sent back, and this is our shoulder. Do you see when it stitches together, these two edges stitched together to create the loop, Let's square in each of these lines just to make it really nice and clear for ourselves. Lawson. We went amok in is our fold line. So, like I said, this is a two centimeter piece. It's gonna fold in half to create a one centimeter piece. Well, I'm gonna do is offset a line that's one centimeter away from the edge. And then this will be our food line. That's all the pieces that we're going to need for our T shirt pattern. 8. Tracing & Truing the Pattern: so well done on drafting a Patton. Next thing we need to do is trace it off and add some seam allowance. So, like we said before I was, sleeve is on the folds front and back of the same. This line is our fold line and for our body. Our friend back are also on the fold, and they're the same apart from the necklines. So this is our center front and sent back, and it's also our fold line. When we're tracing off piece on the fold, it's always much easier physically. Put a fold in your paper. I'm going to demonstrate how to do it on the short sleeve, and then you guys should repeat it on the others. So what I'm gonna do stopped is a physic. He put a fold in my piece of paper so that I can just trace it on the Hoff, but keep it folded. And then once I traced and cut it out, I can open up and have a full pattern. Obviously, my pen is nice and thick because it's a felt it Martha, but you might not be able to see your drawings through last. I can see mine on the fold. So what you can do is put your fold in on that, open up your paper and then match up your fold with your fold line and then you'll be able to see your piece much clearer. What we always want to do is him down our paper so that we're reducing the amount that it can possibly move for us, line up my fold with my foes. And then in my paper down you can see I've got I can see my lines through that nice and clearly What I'm gonna do is simply trace overload lines for any straight lines. I'm literally gonna grab my patent roula, and I'm gonna draw straight over it. And then for any curved lines, I'm gonna do a dotted line very carefully that I can then join up later on. You went to the short dotted lines space very closely together. You try to keep it as accurate as possible and remember to mark on your notch at 0.21 so that would be my short sleeve traced out. Then I can unp in it and fold it back up and I can go over my curve lions, but my patent reliable pattern master, I just got a really nice curve in that. So here I'm using my pen as a pivot point to draw a nice curved line with my straight ruler smudged my felt tip marker that if you're using pencil, you've been expunged it like that. And remember, it's always easier to do this from the outside of a cub. So you rotate your piece round as we need to. Is that really my sleeve? Heads obviously, is a little bit smarter because of my felt tip marker. But who are you using a felt marker at this point. So now all you need to do is go and repeat this process on each piece. You also need to do it on your body, so you would need to fold your piece of paper here on line up. You've sent back to center front and then trace off your body and then pick sent the front neck or back neck, and then that would be your front piece. And then you have to repeat it with the other neck that you didn't trace off. Same thing with your neck bound to be needs to trace this off. Once you got to this point that you traced out your front and your back body, we just want to quickly check the run of a couple lines before we add seamounts. So to do that, what I'm gonna do is open up my back piece and put it wrong. Way around. See, I brought felt tip marker lines so they really easy to see through which helps in this instance. But if you are having trouble seeing through, just try retracing your pencil lines on the wrong side as well. I already do is line up our shoulder lines here so that we can check the run of our arm hole on our neck line. So, like, always, we're gonna pin it down so that we get less movement, keep things nice and accurate, and again because I've used felt tip, you can see my Linus smudge starting on my arm Hope that whatever shame but nor the end of the world. So start by looking at this arm hole here. You can see we've got a nice shape coming here, and then it kind of grows it weird. Yeah, I think what we're gonna do is I'm gonna make my shoulder slightly longer so we can cover it from about here. Just get a bit of a nice arm whole shape there and remember what we do front. Wish we did back because way have a symmetrical pattern on the front and back. So you can see that's a bit of a nice shape with my pencil line. So what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna mark that inbred we can see the difference. He's gonna go over that pencil line to hear started on my own hole and then I'm just going more in like this just a few minutes longer and then curving it into my so you can see I've just got a few millimeters longer on my front and back, um, similar line through on, then on the back. It's already drawn onto their but then on the front, only to trace it through. But we'll get that in a minute. Now let's look at our and neckline. So again, we got really weird corner here where they join up, not ideo. So what we're gonna do is we're just gonna shape our back neck a little bit more because it is looking quite straight. So again, we still want this 90 degree corner here. But here we could just scoop this out ever so slightly so that it just sits a bit more like that. So you can see that would be a much smoother line to follow one from. So again, we're keeping that 91 of the original line. And then we're just coming here up to that corner there and then scooping out slightly like that. And this shouldn't affect our next very much, because they don't really be a few were like human one with a meter. That it adds on to that light should all be fine. Once you've decided on that, we're gonna need to trace through our front using a tracing. Well, just go over the line that you've drawn on UNP in your back. We'll come back to that now we can draw in our curves. You can see the little pep rated months we've made tracing will just gonna go regulators and red to show you the difference in the line so that you can see my bread is my new on whole shape. So just come out by no, put five. That front neck was fine. So what we got as is on the back to me? Inside we drew our lines, but now we need to trace it through onto the outside of Bob. Look, So again, I'm gonna do some red just so you can see the difference in the lines. And then we also changed back. So here I can see my lines. Three. So I'm just gonna go over then using my RIA. There we are. You can see I've just scooped my back a little bit more, and I don't get it my shoulder just to give me a slightly nicer run. I didn't think adding 0.5 extra into that shoulder is going to make any difference to sleeve. I didn't think that curving that a little bit is gonna make any difference to the neck band with so great. Now that we've Trude all of our lines on our shoulder and neck line, we just want a double track our arm hole run. So again, we could just open up one of our cases and line up our side seam and I can see there already. I've got a nice run on my arm hole. And that's because we did a 90 degree corner here at the end. Run. It's a perfect. Now we're ready to pop on This, um, seem announces on great lines and annotations. 9. Adding Seam Allowance, Notches & Labels: for my semen arms I'm gonna do in another color So you can really see the lines I'm gonna still keep my page folded like this and I'm gonna add a centimeter at the side and a centimeter on my sleeve heads. But I'm gonna add a little bit more of my head because if you think about a t shirt hem, we generally fold it up a little bit and do a nice top stitch on it or a cover stitch on it . So I'm gonna do my sleeve hem about 1.5 cm. So let's start by adding a centimeter onto our sleeve. Head's gonna match up my centimeter guideline on my ruler with my original line here, and I'm gonna draw along my edge until it doesn't really match any work. Then I'm gonna use my pen as a pivot point and then draw along it until it doesn't match any more. And then again pivot around my pen so that my guideline matches and then draw along until it doesn't match and then just repeat this process all the way along a curve other than my red line is my putt line on my blue line is my stitch line and then here on the underarm seam also want to add a centimeter on. What I'm just gonna do here is extend my stitch line so that it meets my caught line so that I know where to notch my semen. Lawrence's like we said on Arnhem, we're gonna add a 1.5. So I lined up my 1.5 cm guideline with my average no line, and then I can draw in. That we're gonna find here in the corner is that if we just extended this line straight down when we fold up on a C moments, we're gonna have a bit of pulling here. So we're gonna cut in an action, though, chunk of fabric there that we have a nice, smooth fold up on the business extra pulling. So when we cut this out, we'll just literally fold and cut it. So leave a little section here blank, and that's OK. Next we can cut it out. So because we've got this handy fold here when we cut out, we're gonna have a full peace. So let's just keep that folded for now and pin it down so that nothing can move too much. You can see my pins growth through both layers and then I'm gonna grab my sis's on, just literally caught it on my new cot line. Like I said, we're gonna leave a little extra bit of paper here because we're gonna physically cotton fullback. But we can cut along our headline and then here way literally. Just fold it along. I hem line there and then we want to cut a long hour under arm scene, way unfolded. You can see we've got this little extra bit of paper. They're sticking out that when we fought it back, when it's in fabric, we don't have any extra space here. It's gonna line up nice and smoothly. Last minute wants to is just mark on our notch. So we really have 0.20 marks on that, But we want are not to be a 90 degree angle to our original stitch line. Otherwise, it's not gonna be in the correct place. So I am a lineup, my 90 degree line with my original stitch line there, and I can just draw in that notch while we still get folded. Let's quickly it Not that we're using our nature. So I got my nacho here. Well, I'm gonna do is place my whole punch area over my not drawn in and push it through. I could see I could unicycle hole that we can also not seem announce. So I fold line is pretty key to know that in. And then here the reason we extended our lines is because we want to know, John, are semen ants through there through brick cages that when we stitch it, we have nice, clear guidelines of where we need stitch. Now that we've mocked without on weekend on minutes and then you can see when we unfold it , We've got a whole piece there, even though we've only done half of it. Doesn't matter that this is blankets, literally. Just according to give you a little guy the last thing we want to mark on, we're not the last thing, but the next thing we want a mark on is our grain line. So our fold line is gonna be our grain line. Just popular arrow on that on right grain. We also need to put some information on this piece that we don't get confused about. What it is. So this is our T shirt pattern. So I'm gonna write my pattern name, which is T shirt. Then I'm going to write my piece name, which is my sleeve. Then we need some cut information. So we need one pair off this piece because we need to for one each side of the body. So I cut one, huh? So and they're normally if you're drafting commercially, you would put a size on here, but because we've drafted this to specific measurements, I'm not gonna put aside on that. But I will put today's date so that I'm not gonna get confused with any future drops of this. So today's date is the eight of May 2020. That's all the information that we need on that we need to do one last notch now that it's unfolded. And that's I was shoulder notch here. So that again we have some nice, clear notches for stitching. Last thing you can add in as well is a notch here to give you a little bit of guide, and you need to match it with a notch here as well. I'm not really gonna bother doing that because I haven't really got knees. I'm your tiny little amount, which is fine spread over the whole arm hole. But if you have got sale at 0.8, you would definitely put a notch here so that you will use these days around here get lots of extra dollars here, and that would be our sleeve piece. So now all you need to do is go and repeat this process on each piece. I would suggest adding one centimeter everywhere, apart from the hem I'm or if you're more comfortable at one point to think is three inches C Malone's three eights of mental something, but yeah, at some seam allowance, I tried to keep all the same throughout, apart from the hem, Would you again? What do 1.5, just like you did on the sleeve. 10. Creating a Back Yoke: All right, So now I've got a pattern all traced off. My back is traced. I've got a centimeter seamounts everywhere part for my head, which got 1.5 on on, then the same thing for my front and then same thing for my sleeve. They've also traced off my neck band and you can see here I've put my grain going length ways, and I've made a note that says Most stretch. Basically, the reason we want most of the stretch going that way is because that's the area that's going to stretch them recently grew over ahead. Like I said, this T shirt is quite high neck, so we need to have quite a lot of stretch in that neck band to be able to get it over our heads so it will just depend on your fabric. Summer fabrics are more stretching on the cross grain on, like why its other fabrics or more stretching on the actual grain. So just do a little tester with your fabric, and then you'll know which way you need to put your grade. But now that we have everything it traced out, we can do so it'll amendments. Who want Teoh passing I'm gonna show you is how to add a yoke onto the back. It's really, really easy and you super effective. So we're just gonna get rid off these three pieces because we don't need them right now, and then we're gonna have a look at our back. Basically, a yoke is essentially just a seem that we put in here. It's definitely a design detail when it comes to T shirts on things like weapons we tend tohave shaping in there because we have a shoulder dot that we rotate in. But a jersey like T shirt will stretch on fit the body eight niceness bug anyway, So when we're adding a year cure, like I said, it's more of a design detail. It's the first thing we need to do is decide where we want you to be. I'm gonna measure down from my nape on. I'm gonna put it about 12 centimeters down. So, like a ways I'm gonna make a little mark down from my back neck. So I measure from here my name 12 cm. Then I can square a line from my center back because I want this to be a straight York. So I learned at my 90 degree line with my sons back then I could draw a line right across into my own home. If you want to tie a shaped yoke, then you could as well. You can make this into a curvy line. Well, you could make it into a line that comes to a point at the end, but yeah, for now, I'm gonna do mind straight. It's not marked on. I still got my piece folded here in half. Well, I'm gonna do is I'm gonna chop straight through. It's really literally marking on I seem and then physically cutting it like a ways I'm gonna pin it down so things don't move around too much. Then I'm literally just get chopped straight. Three minutes and again, the positioning of this year. It is totally personal preference. I just like mine to be about 12. Seem a lot of people like them about 10 scam as well. So now if we look, days were two separate pieces. We've lost our grain line and I was sent back mocking, So it's just mark that one here again, like it was before Our grain line is going to be are sent back lines. So our food line And then also let's just label that as our centre back. So that's great. Kind of got a yoke, and we've got a lower piece, but we haven't really got any semen. Answer. You wouldn't be able to stitch together, so I'm literally just gonna stick a piece of paper on and then see Malone's on there. And I'm using blue to do this because it basically just keeps it nice and thin where the papers come together because it's already quite thick where we have two layers of paper. So the glory just makes it nice, Andi and nice and thin. You can also use scotch tape, which works really well. It just creates another third layer of something that you're trying to pin through. The downside of using glue is added. Sometimes if you use a basic you want, you can come apart. But yes, So once we've glued on, we can literally add on RC Mertz. So just like everywhere, I'm gonna add center. And then I'm gonna extend seen through here just like we did before. I'm gonna trim it, trim off this bed. I literally just gave to fold it in half and give it a little trim. All right, there's a joke. This is our stitch line here. And then this is our cut line, but also just gonna pop on a notch so that we have our central notch again also for our seamounts. So just repeating processes that we did when we trace this or for my original draft course on our list is labeling up. This is still my T shirt on. This is my your piece, and this is also caught one self. And then today's date is the eighth off the fifth, 2020 have picked on. That would be our yoke way. Also need to pop on some seam allowance here onto they seem so let's just repeat that whole process again, and then just double check that you've notched everything. So here I'm missing some notches. So I'm just gonna fold it in half again, Do you does? And then you can see that would be my yoke. So I just caught in the seam on added one, sent me to seem announced, teach edge 11. Lowering the Front Neck: next. Let's take a look at how to change our neck. So, like we said, beginning this is quite high neck draft. If you wanted to lower this point down and have a slightly lower rounded neck or you'd have to do is literally just lower that point down and redraw it in as an example, I'm gonna lower mind down about three centimeters. So that would be my three centimeter mock so measured from zero that down three cm. Then again, we need to have a right angle here if it's gonna be a curved neck or secular neck. So I'm just gonna draw myself a little guideline, just like it did when I drafted it. Then I can think about how I want to curve this up to my shoulder point so I can still find nice curve on my pattern. Rouleau there. So I'm coming from my 90 degree line smoothly curving along it all the way up to my shoulder point so you can see this will be cut off or we need to do is now Adam seam allowance. So when we added semen hands on your quickly had to ash physically stick some paper on because we had to call it all off because two pieces we're going to join together. Where is here? This is all going to be waste. So waken literally add ascend to me, turned here and then cut off. So I'm just gonna add a centimeter using my part of master. Then we can trim away. So again, remember to pin down new pieces so that nothing moves around too much, so that would be are slightly lower rounded neck. What we've done here is we've left the back point where it is. If you want a time a really low back neck, you could lower that down as well. But generally that's not what we do. Because the weight of the garment of balance of the government hangs from this point here on a T shirt, So can the front neck. And we can move these shoulder points out if we wanted it to come further out on the shoulder. But generally I'd leave that back net. Put back Nate Point where it is 12. Creating a V-Neck: The next thing I'm gonna show you is how to turn your round neck into a ravine. It it's super, super simple. We basically just follow the same process that we did when we lowered our front neck except instead of drawing in a curved line that we're going to draw in a straight line that we get a corner down here on our center front. So if I read Teoh drawing a straight line from my shoulder down to my center front, you can see I basically I'm going to need to stick on a bit of extra paper. Basically, just gonna do that right now. I have a gay, so I've got all this extra paper to play with just gonna re fold my piece back up because they want the neckline still be asymmetrical. I'm gonna learn my neck about three cm again to make a little Mach three cm down from my my neck. Point that, and I'm just gonna join that up. Teoh, My shoulder point. Maybe I'll do that. Interval colors. You see it a bit. So why do it in orange? That would be my new stitch line. We also need to still I don't ascend to me to see my Let's say it's just offset that line by a centimeter. And that would be our new neckline then. So just like always, it's in this down. We can cut it out. That would be our new net line. We can also it just clear this up. Obviously, if you were using pencil, you could just rub these lines out. I'm just gonna go over that in TX. All right, so now you can really clearly see that this is my new V neck. Of course, we still need our neck band to fit, and now it's not going, Teoh. So let's just redraft our neckline. Remember how we said we needed to stretch on a part of our neckline? Two out front and back, and that climbed before? Well, we don't have to do out front now because this is a straight edge before we have to stretch on because it's a curve and curves. Naturally, when you have a larger one here, if you offset, it naturally gets smaller. It that's where we have on the front lines. Honor. Straight ones are slightly different case, so our front neck is straight and are back neck still carved. So we're still going to keep the same on back measurement that we had here. We can just change our front measurements. So first off, it's just measure our new front neck light. I'm getting 15.2, so I'm just gonna write that down on here, so I don't forget it. And I'm gonna grab a bit of paper. The basic is gonna re draw my neck. The other thing to note is that before, without round Met line, we had our seem at the shoulder point because it was all nicely one piece of center front on that sent back. Where is now? It's coming to a coolness. We're gonna have to have some kind of scene here or some gonna end point. Here's that we don't have a big bubble of fabric, so fasten a redo. Is redrawing my neck, Cling well, my neckline piece. So I'm gonna start exactly the same way as I did before, right? So that's my TCM rectangle. We're not too sure how long it's gonna be yet because we're just gonna mark are notches and then we'll get to an end point. Eventually, I'm gonna measure from this edge here, 15.2 cents meters because we're not stretching on our neckline is going to be flat. Gonna make a little mock. So this point now, my shoulder online. Now I can start my It was gonna create a rectangle measuring to see em wise to remind myself find, like, measurement I used here it was 7.5. So I'm just gonna go back to my little notch, though, made there and measure along 7.5. So, like going there at center front. Then it would go around the other side of my back piece. Sir, I come to my center back and they make another notch at 7.5, then the next piece. But being waste my front piece against that's 15.2, then square a lineup. So know that that would be my center front and this would be my center front. This is my sent back, and we can actually just draw a straight line through the piece. That would be my shoulder. Be my sense back. And that would be my shoulder. That so you can see we got a mirrored peace with our sent back being phone line. That's quite key, because when we come to amending this angle here, this also needs to be in angles. We can just amend one side, fold it and cut it almost like we've done our back front pieces to get our angles here at the neck. We have another fold line on this piece as well, which is the mid point. So let's just mark that in. So we're still doing this are the one centimeter visible neck band, so that would be not Then let's just pop on some semen islands for now. - Okay ? So get rid of that. And now let's just pop our folding it so I would like mid fold even there. We're gonna trim away our angle bed. Just put on Smithson centimeter semen on as a guide for now. So now I can see if we lined up its trim along our long edges Isn't from point without center front point there. And then late river wow seem was gonna pay. See, we have all this access here. So what we can do here is because either create a center front seen all we can create an overlap. If you're going to different. Send different scene you could not into place. You could literally just get your pattern Master finder center front their lineup and then just draw a line through there. A man on a minute, and then you see here Wait. Need to marry this line Here is well, so for back up and you could add on you see mines and then trim it off. The other thing we can do here we can create an overlap. Sorry if I just Machen where my neckline or stitch line of my next line would be on this piece, then pin this guy back into place. So again, just find my center for end point that I'm putting my pin through the paper on that point to keep it really accurate. And then I'm lining my pinpoint off my scent different point, that pushing it down so that I can use it as irritation point. You can also use a lot for this as well. I've got one, but I'm not sure it is. Okay, So then he's in My pen is a rotation point. I can line up my piece onto the scene and then I can see where my other scene would be, sir, my other side of my front neck would bay never wear to stitch this edge onto this side And then this edge Here do this edge here into this seem I'd get little bubble because you can see this line doesn't actually match up with this line. So if I wanted to stitch us in here, all they would do is literally trace through, so that's where that line would be. So what I'm gonna do now, Now I've got that marks on there and add on my semen ants exactly like we would have done if we added a center for the scene and then trim it off. The other thing that we want to do here is we want Teoh keep this on this side as well. So, like we said, I was centre back can be afford line because our pieces mirrored essentially, it's just full that, on our sense back trim off there as well. It's that we're getting the same angle there so that when this side stitches up here, it'll stitch into there, and maybe I'll just mark my new seem line on there, too. So we'll just offset that from our cut line. So you can see then when I mark when I match up my stitch line there with my stitch line on this piece, my adjoining piece matches with my opposite side of my front neckline. Same thing with this piece. Then we need to notch a few things. Do you know, sent back here all the way to stitch line? Same thing with my shoulder on this one. Too full, sir. Here. Great. So let's start with this guy folded in half again so that we can Really? What we're gonna do is understand. It seemed lines up for a notch, lines up the next going to think about is that we have a natural point here, so we need to somehow mark that on our pattern when I'm gonna use is my pattern drill. So this little guy makes little hole in the paper, which is perfect. If it is, it's not anything. It is shocked. I'm just, like, grab a mat, pop that into that. So I don't ruin my desk on I just put the point of this down on the point that I want to drill, push down on as were left a little hole, van that when I got to talk this out really easily and accurately at market in my center for next point so that when I stick my neck line on or my neck band, then I have a really accurate point. Where On stitching. Now we can mark our nachos on our neck band, so my fold one is there. So then the other thing that we don't do is extend this line right through to the edge on I'm just gonna do like I did on the next line. I'm gonna fold it and then notch through at an angle. And I haven't pinned down this piece because it is really small. And I can easily hold it with my hands knowing that it's not going to move around. Okay, so there we go. That would be our new neck band on. That would be our V neck on our T shirt 13. Final Thoughts & Class Project: and that brings this class to an end. Unfortunately, but well done for drafting a T shirt pattern, I really did want to see what you guys been up to. So your class project, I would love it. If you could post a picture of your draft or off your T shirts in the section below. I'm sure will really encourage other people to have a go at drafting one themselves. If you'd like Teoh, then I'd really appreciate it as well. If you could leave a review again, it really helps future students to know what the course is really about and what I get from it. If you want to find a little bit more about me or another course, there are some other courses on skill share as well. Andi, I also have a website where I do some block posts on pattern drafting on. They also sell a lot of the basic equipment that you saw here today. Otherwise you can find me on instagram at patterns. I process fairly regularly. I'm slightly addicted just as ever enough. So yeah, thank you so much for taking the course guys. And hopefully I'll see you soon