Basic Book Making: Stab Bound Book | Cookie Redding | Skillshare

Basic Book Making: Stab Bound Book

Cookie Redding, Artist, Designer, Teacher

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8 Lessons (39m)
    • 1. Introduction

      0:35
    • 2. Supplies

      1:31
    • 3. First steps in Book Binding

      4:10
    • 4. Sewing Prep!

      5:38
    • 5. Assembling the Cover

      11:07
    • 6. Sewing the Book

      14:00
    • 7. Class Project

      1:06
    • 8. Conclusion

      0:30

About This Class

 In this class, you will have fun creating your own stab bound book project.

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Transcripts

1. Introduction: welcome to bookmaking in this class, you're going to create a stab bound book. This book could be used for notes. This book can be used for your own sketching. You can make it a recipe book or use it as a gift. Bookmaking is a lot of fun. You get to explore materials and different paper types, and you can see which one works best for you and whatever purposes you wish to use your book for. We're going to be making a book that is as unique and individual is you are that you can use for your own creative purposes. I hope you enjoy the class. Have fun. 2. Supplies: All right, So what materials are we going to need to make books? Let's take a look. First off, you're going to need your sewing for it. You can use some embroiders flocks if you have that handy this good to practice with or if you wish to advance obit, go ahead and pick up some waxed linen thread. You also want to have some blue sticks at the ready and as well, something to so with. So in this case, I have tapestry needles. We need large eyes and blunt points. A bone folder comes in handy. Also, this is going to help us reinforce our edges and do some scoring. So if you have one, great, if you don't might want to pick it up because they do come in handy. Next on the list is going to need some scissors and as well a pencil for market. For our actual selling steps, you're going to need an all, and also you'll need a ruler and some binder clips. You'll also need a hammer and a piece of scrap, or for whenever we get to actually punching our someone holes, and we also need paper for the paper you can use regular typing paper for practice. You can use rice paper, and that's for the insides. For the covers, you can use scrap of paper, anything decorative that you have laying around your studio. I provided a supply list in our class notes to make it easier for you to find these supplies, and once you have them wrangled, let's go ahead and get started. 3. First steps in Book Binding: All right, so let's go ahead and get started. First off, we're actually going to need the pages of our book. Traditionally, you would use rice paper, and if it's available to you at your local art supply or craft store, go ahead and pick that up. It's going have a really nice texture to it. You could use your drawing papers. I am going to say not, um, too thick. If you're working with, say, like arches, watercolor paper. If you wanted a watercolor book, uh, do not do the fold step. You could just keep it. You know, the single stage and then just do your punching from there. But I am going to recommend if you want to do like the watercolor papers that are heavier, do it with the cheaper paper first and get used to it. Then grow into that. What? I like to show my students for the first books. Just use computer paper stuff, the cheap stuff that you get for your printer. That's what we're going to be using for our demo. You can use nice drawing paper, or you could just use our computer paper. So for today, going to use the computer paper. All right, so one thing we need to dio and this is something students I know struggle often what they want to use the whole sheet for our book. We're actually going to be folding in half, so it's going to be 1/2 of a letter size sheet of paper, and this is going to give us a little bit more dense two sided writing or drawing abilities . Eso It's just This is a traditional technique, but it's just using a more contemporary paper. If you're using the rice paper, it's going to give you, you know, just like this, a lot more solidity to the page. Now my book. I'm going to make it 10 pages, and then we also need a sheet for the front and the back cover, so I'm going to fold 12 pieces of paper. I've already folded 10 so let's go ahead and get aren't last two for it. The most important step to this is to make sure all your folds are going in the same direction. That way, it doesn't get confusing when you're in the build stage. All right, so what you're going to need handed dandy bone folder paper of your choice and then just go ahead full that paper in half, minding those edges and getting it is nice and neat as possible. And I like to start from the middle and then go to the edge whenever I'm doing my flat name . That way, I know that it's, you know, not going Teoh buckle in the middle. So you might want to do that, too, because if you start the edge and go straight down, there is a chance. If you're working with the flimsier paper that it's going to have a little bit of buckling so that will curtail that issue and the same thing. Fold the next one Minding those edges Middle out, middle out. All right, double check and make sure all your folds are going in the same, you know, on the same side. So folded unfolded. We're actually going to be binding on the unfolded so that the pretty fold is going to be on the edge of your book. So this is something to keep in mind when you're doing this. Um, otherwise, you would be having 20 pages instead of the 10 but it is going to give you a nicer appearance when your complete all right, then to make sure everything's all nice, neat and line up. And I have my painter clips here if you just have Binder clips that would work also. But I'm in my painting studios of these were what I had at the ready, and so these are a little bit big and unwieldy, but anything that's going to clamp in place is what we're looking for, what we need to do. And it's always the same thing. Remember where your edge is, So I like to keep mine always on the right side. So if I was going to be opening a book so that when I'm in that work stage, I don't have to worry about that at all when we do the traditional techniques for step binding, we need Teoh get a sort of preliminary, binding and place before we do our stitches. So that is what we're going to do next 4. Sewing Prep!: All right, So now, for the preliminary binding that we're going to do towards our spine, we're gonna need our roller A pencil. We're going to need our hammer all. And I do have a scrap piece of wood that I used to that whenever I'm hammering, I'm not hammering into a surface. If you have really heavy, you know, Matt Lord or stack of it, that would work. Also, just know that you're always gonna be punching through some of it. As you can see here in the detail of the wood that I have. Ah, note on the all this is, of course, sharp. It's, you know, it's a stab east, Abby. So I take a gum eraser and just poke it through. Or you could use a cork if you have them laying around just something to place it in so that when you're not using it, it's not going to be jabbing or stabbing anything. It keeps it nice, neat and orderly. All right, so we need to get our preliminary marks to our spine. Ah, we need a two punches and two punches on. Then we're going to actually put ARF loss through. All right, So we're gonna take our ruler. And actually, if you want to start, you can start by putting half inch marks that you have a bit of a guide. You can keep these lines, you know, as light Orosz, heavy as you want exist is going to be buried within The spy agency won't have anything to work with her. So you won't have anything to worry with and then come up and make a market too 2.5 same thing on the other side to 2.5 and then this is going to be our punch marks. So we're going to get our punch board are all and our hammer and let's go ahead and punch through just so that you can see I'm letting a little bit of that all come through. I'm not, you know, jamming all of it. And I'm just getting enough that I know my thread or my flaws, depending on what I'm using is going to be able to go through. And you can reinforce us, but just jabbing in it a little bit more if you're worried that floss isn't going to go through covering are all again and grabbing ARF loss for the stage. This is sort of the traditional techniques with some nontraditional materials just to keep costs down at your learning stage. I found that for my classes, the flaw stage is, you know, ah, little bit easier to manipulate. But the traditional is you would actually take your rice paper and form your own threat out of it. So it's going to depend what you're looking for us. You could do that also. All right, we just need a couple little pieces just to making sure your scissors cut nicely to make life easier on yourself. And these were just going to be tie offs that we're never going to see again. It's just gonna help make things a little bit easier for our building process. All right, let's go ahead, threat it into these holes, and I dio moisten the edges of the threat just to make the stage a little bit easier. All right, I'm going to flip it over to the back so I can just dio a not we're just gonna knock this off. If you were making your own from rice paper, which I'll do in a dead end um, clip for that, Um, you would just hammer this part in place, but for our bread or flaws, just go ahead and that extra little bit off, we're gonna do the same thing for our second preliminary finding. I'm just gonna dampen the edges. And if you do find it tricky to get it in, remember, you can just take your all and adjust the output a little bit. But thanks for this. We're going to have to go. So let's just go ahead, make life easier on ourselves. There we go. And if you find your threads to small for you, just make it bigger, cause it just gets cut off in the end anyway, So it's going to be up to you. There we go. That's better. There's first, and I just go from the center so that you know, I'm not threading through or anything. It just makes it a little bit easier for that. So we have our nice edge and then our tie off on the other and just make a standard not right and trim. All right, so here's our preliminary binding, and now we need to get our covers. One 5. Assembling the Cover: all right, now it's time to get our cover on. So what I like to do is whenever our craft supplies stores have those super crazy scrapbook paper sales. I do like to grab them, especially when they're in the 60 to 70% off. And then they have all these patterns that you have to work with that are typically and the same, you know, and or complementary color harmonies. So this part can be a lot of fun. So you're choosing whatever papers you want, you can buy them in a pack, or you can go to the scrapbooking area and just pick up two or four sheets, depending on how many books you're making. Um, just make sure you get the same for the front cover and the back cover, so you will need two of these sheets. You also need your ruler who also need your bone folder. And since the book itself is, you know, half of a letter sheet, another slide this over so we can see you would have a lot of excess. So what I did is just went ahead, trimmed some of the excess off. So yes, we're gonna be a folding and losing some of it. But we're not gonna have quite so much of a fold underneath our cover. And then I always keep the extra scraps, and you can add them as embellishments into your book, or use them in collages or whatever you want to later down the line. All right, so let's get this cover on first things first. You also need to glue. Uh, you want to make sure your pattern. So when you fold, the book is going Teoh be going in the right direction so you don't want you know if there is a specific flow or movement to your paper that it's not going to be, you know, upside down. Or, you know, if this for example was going this way, which might not matter with it, but we have our larger flowers going in a slightly different pattern. So you will want to make sure whenever you're doing your book and again, if we keep our edges to the side will know that our front cover well, look good with that cover, so you can sort of imagine it that way. Gonna flip it over. I'm gonna take the clips off for this stage and we're going to work with the print side down and our pages matching to that. So the glue itself just put a tiny little patch of it. You do not want to go all over. You're just going for a little sort of circle a bit there. And this is going to tentatively and temporarily hold the pages and place. And it's not going to make you know, buckles or ripples or anything. All right, first things first. We need to get rid of these extra corners. So if we were to fool this right now, we would get too much of a mass and those corners. So what you need to do is cut 45 degree triangle there and just leave out. Just let you see it from here. Just enough of it that you're going to have, ah, coverage, but not enough. That's gonna buckle. And this is the step. This little distance here is what's gonna probably take the longest to get right, because this one's just a practice makes perfect same deal, and I keep those scraps Also waste not, want not. And if I'm making paper and even put in those. So I will always find purpose for those If you you know, if you don't want to keep this, don't worry about it. But if you are worried about waste, you confined, you can find plenty of other things through those. All right, so now we have our book. We have our spine, we have our end pages, and then we have, you know, the tops of the bombs. And we know now need to tuck the's in so that we have a nice, clean, crisp cover and I'm going to start with the spine first. I'm just gonna slide my ruler under there. Be careful with your bone folder at this stage because if you apply too much pressure, you actually can cut through the paper. So just, you know, light to moderate on. Just get a scored line there, and I am using pretty light. And I like to take the other side and start the fold so that it's a little bit easier whenever it's doing the actual fold that scores. Just gonna one give us a nice, crisp edge and just like before, start for the middle and go out. Uh, and if it shifts a little. Don't worry about that. But it is going to give us a nice, crisp edge to that. So spine and the edge pieces those get tucked in the same way. So we're gonna do him all that way. It's the one towards the full. That's gonna be a little bit different. So I save that one for the last. All right, Everything in alignment. Line up a ruler with the edge of our paper. Lightly score. Start the fold and fold in and bone fold. Repeat on the top. Line it up. Phone fold, start the fold. Hold it, Phone fold. All right. So you can see we're getting this nice. And I'm just keeping my hand here so it doesn't shift too much. It's giving us this nice overlap and we're not going to get. Like I said, that bunch e part if we were to just kept these edges on So spine top bottom are done and this one's a little bit different. It actually is going to get folded over our last page to remember. I said I wanted my book to be 10 pages, but I added to for the back and the front cover. Well, that's because we're gonna lose those two, because this piece is actually going to be glued onto that. We're gonna follow the same stuff, get our scoreline preliminary, remove the ruler. But then I'm gonna take that last sheet. I'm gonna fold it over, and this just makes a nice decorative edge. And it's giving your book some extra added support, all right? And I'm making sure that's nice and crisp. And I always keep a sheet of paper handy because if you need to glue, then you have something that'll keep your surfaces clean. For this, you will glue right up to the edge because we really want to make sure this stays, Um oops. Attached and friendly with that last page pulled it over. And if you would like for extra reinforcement, the bone folder will help. Those fibers sort of mesh together. All right, that cover done. So let's go ahead and get the other cover on same process dot in the middle. And also remember, we want to make sure our covers air going to be going in the same direction. That is correct. Same dealio. Lay it down towards the centre and I'm sort of making sure. You know, we got same, even quantity on both sides. And I'm also making sure that it's going in the same, you know, parallel alignment. Cut those 45. Okay. And just so you don't go crazy in this process, always know which one is going to be your open side. So again, I start with spine top bottom and then ideo that piece last so it can do the fold over. So this one is just repetition of the last repetition is the mother of learning. So let's go through the process again. Score pre, fold, fold and score. I'm sorry. Burn. Fold. All right. Next line up. Score and free fold bottom. Nice and align. Score. Pre Ford. Oh, Ford. No unfold. Okay, That gets us to our last fold. Which is where we need this to go over that flap. Same step. And I'm just making sure it's lining up nice with our cover so that the edges look good together to our scoring. Do our pre fold. Take it to the last page. Make sure it's gonna look good. There we go. Grab our scrap glue right to the edge and fold it over. And if you want to reinforce it with that bone folder, All right, So we temporarily have our cover on. I'm saying temporarily because we still need our final binding You want? Take your clips at this stage, clip it in place, leaving the spine side a little bit more open clip on the bottom. And now we're ready to put our spine on. 6. Sewing the Book: all right, now it's time to get sewing. We're actually going to get our binding sewn. And what we need for this is our actual book. Of course, we're going to need our thread now. I am using bookbinders waxed linen thread. The waxing is gonna help the thread stay in place a little easier if you were using the embroidery floss because you had already purchased it on and just wanted to save some money and keep it economical. It's OK. I have used it without waxing it. It might shift and wiggle a little bit, but if you have some sewers, bees wax. Just run the thread through that and you'll actually end up creating your own waxed thread so you can pre by or you can make or just experiment without, But it does make life a little bit easier. You also need your sewing needles. Your scissors and that scrap paper that we had been glowing on is actually going to come in handy for this part. All right, set some of this aside. Let's talk about that scrap paper, so what we need to do is get our four holes punched, but we need to know the actual I got the math thing. We need the math thing stage and you could sit and subdivide. That's fine. If you want a math at the actual math way, go for it. But what you also dio is take cut off some of that paper because what we're having is the, you know, it's the same paper we use, So we're gonna have the same height, chop off a little bit of it, and I sort of eyeball this stage. So wherever you feel like, you know, do you want your stitches to beat more towards the end? So maybe they're ish, the stage is flexible. And this is why I do like this stage. Because maybe you wanna have a little bit more decorative. Or maybe you're, you know, want it right up to the edge. It's going to depend on your personal preferences, but this paper is actually going to tell us where are sewing punch marks are going to be. So we're gonna take it and we're going to overlap it and start smashing it down so that we're going to get it. Equal parts fold. All right, so that when we open it I don't get my pencil so we can see this a little bit easier. This is actually going to be the edges are punch one punch to punch three punch four. So each of these where the folds are where we're gonna make a hole and we're gonna make a hole there also. All right, take it back to our book. Line it up onto your book. Get it. Is even as you can. And you can. If you really want a measure, go for it at this stage, and I just make a light like I just take us dot and I circle it so that I don't have pencil marks everywhere on my cover. All right, our marks. And we call these the sewing keys. So I actually do these nicer air quote paper so that I could just grab whichever one's I want for whatever sewing purpose, if you want. Keep this one. If you find yourself going to make mawr and you like where those positionings are, keep it, and then that way you don't have to redo this step every time. So these are your sewing keys. All right? We're going to need our would and we're going to need that all and our hammer and each of those marks punch not for these. I am going to make sure it has a pretty decent chunk in the back that one does that way. I won't have any issues whenever we're trying to do the actual sewing sections and I'm putting a little bit more force on that and you can see that one went through pretty good. So I don't have to reinforce next one reinforce and our last all right, that's looking pretty good putting our tools away. We're done with the wood and now we're ready for the actual so in part and when I work, I like to spend it so that the punches that we just did are always going to be towards my belly. That way, whenever I refer toa 1234 whenever you're doing it, just know this is when I have my hand out. This is what I'm talking about. Its punches air towards the 1234 so whatever we're selling, I'm going to say 1234 so it's just going to correlate to that Near earth threads pick the color that you think works best. Do you want it too matchy matchy Or do you want contrast? You doing a split compliment? Um, I'm gonna go a contrast just for video sake. Those aside and let's go ahead and get our wax threat. There you go. All right. Sometimes takes a little bit to get that started. So however many punches you have is how many lengths of thread you're going to need. So I have 41 to all right, three four. Being cautious, I always give myself a little bit extra just in case. That way I don't have to redo anything. So 12341234 They were correspond to each other, all right, grabbing our needle. Now, this is a tapestry needle, and it says it's a size 16. Ah, what you want to look for when you're purchasing your needles? And I just got these in a sewing store I got to use at Joann's. I want a pretty large island, and I also do not want a sharp edge because I don't wanna be poking myself whenever I'm doing this step so you can buy bookbinding needles that come like this. I do find these are just a little bit more financially solvent towards my budget. So and plus it's easier to find. And I don't have to wait for the order so you can preorder these. I'll put a link to a books of higher that most of us use. That sort of the preeminent source four bookbinding needs. Um, so everything you could ever hope for is at that shop. Or you can make Do you know, with Joan's and Michael's and Dick Blick and all of those. All right, go ahead, thread your needle and what we're going to be doing. 123 We actually start on the third, So we're going to end where we start. So we're going to sort of work backwards for this. We're going to put our threat halfway through our spine and our pages. This is gonna help keep it in place. And it's also going to hide, um, the threat itself. So it's serving two purposes. It's going Teoh be functional, and it's also going to be decorative. All right, so we're gonna take our threat. And actually, just for contrast sake, let me get a different sheet. I am going, Teoh put some paper under here so that you can see So the threat is a little bit hard to see with my board. All right, so what, we're gonna dio and I know that sitting there but this for first time. So this makes sense. No, just clean that job just a little bit. Gonna take our thread and pull it just until we can't see it in our spine. Eso it's going to be slightly tucked in. What we do then is lock the edge. So think of this. If it you're in your home at class, this is that Whip Stitch. We're gonna whip it around and this is going to lock in place. So this is our straight stitch. So the stab binding there's multiple stab binding stitches that you can do, And this is what I'm gonna lovingly refer to is the foundational one. So when you're comfortable with this one and it's all nice, neat and orderly, then you can go forth and experiment with the fancier ones. But this is our foundation. So start, start at the beginning. One thing when you're sewing what you want to look forward to is are your lions straight? So is it parallel to the edge? So if it's crooked, just take it and straighten it up a little bit and you can tug it moderately toe light so that it stays in place and it doesn't wiggle. All right, so that's locked in place. We need to go down to four, all right, going to go down. And our edges are going to be slightly different because we have to do the spine lock, and that's this lock. But we also have to do the edge locked. So from four, we're gonna lock our spine. And I do have a diagram of this in the class notes because this part, it does get confusing if on your first time. So just refer to that and pause as needed so that you can see the process. It's basically lock. And wherever you're threads coming out, go down to the next one lock and you can see we're down underneath. We need to lock that part. All right, walk. We're making sure it's straight on both sides and seen as the tops looking really good, the talks looking like a normal spine, but this one's missing So you would need to come through where you started and just give a little bit extra there. All right, so now our bottom two are completely finished. Done. Now we need to finish our top. So we're at three. We need to go to two. You guess it? We got to flock that edge. So we're gonna come back through Lockett, and you could see that was a little crooked. Just straighten it out. So we're down, so we need to come through one, all right? And when I work, I actually just keep it up, so don't flip it. It keeps it a little less confusing. But you know, that way you can see where our holes currently are. We have a whole here, and we have a whole here, so we need a so in those gaps. But we haven't edge to deal with with our spine. So let's lock that spine in place, and we have our top edge. You can see that's a little crooked. Just nudge it over a little bit, and the wax will keep it in place once you pull it up and give it a little bit more tension . So our spines locked. We need Teoh. Lock the top, so that stays in place. Now some people will skip the top part. That's going to be aesthetically up to you. If you don't like the lines here, the next book. Don't do that and see what happens. I like the extra reinforcement. And I think it looks nice with the line, but its aesthetics and everyone's gonna have their own opinion. So that edge lock is gonna be up to you. We have this missing. We have this missing. So from 1 to 2, top is completely done from two through three Ha ha! Way have sown our sign. So our backs done fronts done. And now we need to tie it off. And this will be in our diagram also. So the tie it off, it's actually going to make an invisible. Not that you won't be able to see your going to go through the spine of three so that both threads are going over and I start to hold on to this part so I don't lose it. Keep pulling through, loop it back through. So whenever it starts to tie, it's actually going to tie a little not right there, and it's going to be sitting in that punch hole, so it's not going to be terribly visible now. You could keep this part, put some beads on the end and you could have a built in bookmark. So if you wanted a bookmark, go for it or grab those scissors and cut it off and you can see with the wax one. It'll just sort of disappear there in place. Remove your clips, spin that book towards you and let one behold you have completed your stab bind books. 7. Class Project: All right. So for your class project, assemble whatever pages you wish to be on the inside. And I would say somewhere around the 10 Teoh 18 page is a good for your first. I would say tens the best to start with because you're getting the sort of principles and concept of it without worrying about it being too thick. Um, find your cover paper. Find your threads. Assemble your supplies from our list above and make your book. If you wish to go all sorts of crazy, as I like to say, make three of them. It's really nice to see them in a set. So maybe you have this pattern in a yellow and green, and then that way you have a nice set. Whenever you're finished, when you are, you know, finished or if you're working, take photos. Show us what you're doing. Show us what you've wrangled and go ahead and put in our class notes below so that we can see your project and see what all your working on so minimum of one try a series of three. It's going to be up to you. Make your book and share it and our notes below 8. Conclusion: All right. So in this class, you got to learn the materials and supplies needed for basic bookbinding. You learned the basic staff binding stitch, which is the gateway to all of our other stitches with bookmaking. And you've got to create a book of your own so you can use it as a notebook. You can use it as a sketchbook or a scrapbook are they also make super awesome gifts. I hope you enjoyed this class. And I hope you enjoyed your book. Have fun.