Backyard Abundance: The Power of a Tiny Garden! Class 2 | Sustainable Stace | Skillshare

Backyard Abundance: The Power of a Tiny Garden! Class 2

Sustainable Stace, hopeful, helpful, healthy

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9 Lessons (1h 7m)
    • 1. Class 2 Intro

      0:50
    • 2. Chapter 5 Critter Control Part 1

      7:44
    • 3. Chapter 5 Critter Control Part 2

      7:16
    • 4. Chapter 6 The Key to Irrigation

      11:21
    • 5. Chapter 7 Your Garden Gameplan

      8:16
    • 6. Day 30 Celebration Part 1

      10:14
    • 7. Day 30 Celebration Part 2

      8:03
    • 8. Day 40 Celebration Part 1

      6:42
    • 9. Day 40 Celebration Part 2

      6:30
13 students are watching this class

About This Class

Set up for success and turn your veggie vision into a dream garden!

This step-by-step class prepares you as a beginner to succeed in your backyard, thanks to Sustainable Stace’s 25 years of personal experience and knowledge.

In this second class, you will continue to build your skills and you’ll wrap up your planning foundation. You will learn how to manage and control critters (primarily by putting up a perimeter fence to keep out the deer!), layout drip irrigation, and build a personalized plan for your garden to best fulfill your personal growing goals. We call this your Garden Gameplan! 

As a bonus, you will also see progress and outcomes you can achieve in 30 and 40 day update videos at the end of this class.

Transcripts

1. Class 2 Intro: so much delicious food can be grown in small spaces. Here's how you can do it yourself. Welcome to backyard abundance. Hey, guys, welcome to class to hear on skill share in the backyard Abundance project Class two is going to be awesome. We're going to figure out how to control the critters so they don't get the garden and we get to enjoy it. We're going to set up drip irrigation is that you've got a great way to use as little water as possible just to the roots of the plants that you're growing. And then we're going to set up a garden game plan is what I call it, basically deciding what you want to grow and sketching out where you're gonna lay it out. Said it's gonna be optimally positioned. Good companion planting. Figure it all those things together, said my class three. The next one you're gonna be planting the bonus material at the end of this one is great, by the way. So let's hop into class too 2. Chapter 5 Critter Control Part 1: this chapter is entirely about past proofing the garden. You're setting up for backyard abundance to past proof it most of all, I think people need to keep out dear. They need to keep rabbits. A few other things may come and go depending on where you are. We will come to another part of past proofing later. That will relate to rabbits and birds specifically in your garden. But for now, that's what we want to talk about, especially what you see behind me here, which is a two meter tall deer fence that will also keep out rabbits at the ground level. So that's what we're gonna talk about right now on the supplies. You'll need to get that going. Okay, so for dear proofing the fence, just a simple little list of things you need to accumulate to build a fence. Now, remember the total perimeter of this backyard abundance. It's about six or seven paces on each sides of six or seven meters on each side, which works out to being a bit over 30 meters or around 100 feet. That's intentional because we think it's a bit bigger than about two parking spaces or a backyard patio. Many people with property have this much, which is less than 1% of an acre. Also, when you go to buy deer fencing and keep in mind, this black polly is double. So when I on roll it, it's actually twice as long as it is right here. It's two meters tall, and it's sufficient to keep a deer out as long as you have it tall enough because the deer are very good high jumpers, right? The 100 foot roller, 30 meter role is under $100 or I live so you could do the whole perimeter of the actual fencing material for 100 bucks. And all the other parts and pieces only cost you about 20 or 30 more dollars. So it's being held up with small fence posts, which actually, in my area self the lumber store as garden stakes. You see how small that is. It's on Lee 2 to 2.5 inches, about five or six centimeters across, so it's very thin. They're very easy to hit in. You'll need a sledgehammer or a heavy hand held hammer and possibly a ladder to get up on so I'm putting one of these tree stakes or Finn fence posts at each corner and then one mid span between the corners and running on top of each of the fence posts is a piece of bear wire. Now I don't mean bear like RR I mean Barras. And it's not barbed wire. It's smooth and it's galvanized. It's quite thin gauge, but it's strong enough to hold up this lightweight fencing. And if you kind of weaving in and out through the top of the fencing material and then you go on top of your ladder to the top of your fencepost, I just use a little fencing staple like that. Okay, little U shaped fencing staple that holds down the wire. You bend the wire back on itself, and it basically puts Thea Deer fencing up like a shower curtain with the wire running through the top of deer fencing. So for about $125 you could do the whole perimeter of a 30 meter garden, and it's deer proof of the top. It's over six feet tall, over two meters tall and at the bottom. Then you just take pieces of firewood, bricks, sleeping Children rocks anything heavy and not moving just to hold down the bottom of the material. And as I've shown as well with a lawn mower a little later on, you try to set your fence just a little bit inside to your cardboard and chips so you can run along more around if you need to. That you cut the grass without catching the bottom of the fencing material, and you create an exposed, clear area that probably a rabbits not gonna want to be caught sitting there turning able through the fencing. It's New York and jump over it. You'll just have to put extensions or taller posts on and do a little taller. But for where I live, the deer actually quite small, and they don't jump over two meters tall, so it'll be deer proof. So here we go. Let's just build another piece of this fencing so you can see what's involved. Very simple posts at the corner and in the middle, wire across the top, holding up the fencing. Staple it down. Use the shower curtain idea when you get to a doorway and you gotta wait in and out of your garden as long as dear can't figure out how to stand on their hooves like Gary Larson, Far side cartoon and open it up. You get to go. So I've measured off my existing fence line that already has fencing up to make sure that it's a square with, you know, fairly right angles. I'm not looking for perfection, but it needs to look sexy. And I've positioned this tree streak or thin fence post where I want it to be. So that's where I want to put it right there. And it's just inside the, uh, the cardboard. And keep in mind I'm wanting to sink this 45 centimeters or about 18 inches, which isn't very much, really. When you start talking it down, unless you're hitting, you know, solid rock or gravel, because I want it to be tall enough so that the ah fencing is gonna have about an extra 15 centimeters at the ground level that I can lay out flat on the surface, preventing rabbits and such to get underneath. That looks like a nice height. It's taller than me, and then when I've got that in place, I'm just taking one of our little handy dandy fencing staples, and I'm putting it right in the top. So when you're putting the fence posting, you don't wanna smash and damage to the top, and I'm not gonna put the staple in all the way. I'm only gonna just firmly embedded it that I can connect the wire to it. Now it's ready to go and receive the wire holding up the deer fencing. So another step done. So now I'm hoping to do the mid span post on this side of the garden from the corner post to the other corner post. It's about six meters, so the three meter point 10 feet is right in the middle. So I've positioned that right in the middle. And again, I'm well inside what's going to be defense line so that it'll be really easy to protect. Drive it down 45 centimeters or so, and this will again receive a staple, and that's gonna be the mid span load bearing for the wire upholding the fence that goes right across. I'm actually gonna be putting that on top of the hour once the wires there, because I don't want to slide it here so I can actually save that till later and put it in later. It'll make sense later on. I think to you. If you put it in after the wires on top, it's a little firmer way to hold it and fix it. So I'm just tapping it there. So it's on site when I need it later on. So now that I've driven in my fence posts on this six meter stretch, I've ruled out the fencing material is that it's just a little bit longer than the fence posts are from end to end because I don't wanna have too little. I wanna have a few extra centimeters and then I'm just cutting up one line of the deer fencing material. Remember, it's full, the double, so it's one meter that folds over as two meters, and we're just cruising up like that. That's how easy it is to cut with just household scissors. So now will unfold the doubling, and then we can run the wire through and we're ready to set it up on the staples at the top of the posts. E don't have a special, magical way to thread this wire through the fencing. What I'm basically doing is over under every two squares or so. So I go through a square over, I go under two squares, and I just keep on going like that. Um, I'm a person who gets bored easily. Maybe you are too. I'd say this is the most tedious part of the whole project. I was thinking It's gonna take so long now, this is a six meter line, and I just realized by watching the clock that it's gonna take me about seven or eight minutes to do a six meter stretch. So that means all four sides could take 30 minutes. It's probably the single longest task of anything I'm doing. 3. Chapter 5 Critter Control Part 2: I have completed threading the bare wire through this six meter stretch of fencing. And remember, this corner post has a fencing staple anchored in it. All I'm doing now is that gonna run it through the fencing staple and bend it back on itself. That's all I'm doing with event back in itself. Now the fence things up. I'll go to the middle post and we'll go from there just taking it back to the other. The other end. It's really simple. You may remember that on middle Post, I didn't put the staple in hard. It's really gently just there because I want to fix the wire. So I'm grabbing the stretch of fencing, going up my ladder and just gently coaxing the fencing material and the wire back to the center span. And now I'm just going right on top of the post on over top of, ah, stretch of fencing material and the wire, just clicking it in and again, not driving at home, because if I ever needed to pull it it for any reason, I could just use a plier or a, uh, screwdriver to pop it up. But now that's in place and we'll go to the extreme end and put that staple in, and we've got another six meters, a fencing done. So now I'm back to this extreme end of this six meter stretch. The wire is still intact to the role, and you can see I've got it now It's come from the far end to the middle post. I'm right here. I've got a handy dandy staple at the top. Bend them and with that clicked on and knocked down. No thumbs injured in the process. She's good. I've got wire cutters with me. We're just gonna cut that there. That's done. And then I could just pull it back on itself again. Tension up as much as I wish. Bend it back in itself. I've got an intact dear proof fence corner to corner. Here it's all coming together. These air a really handy little way to hold down the bottom of the fencing. You can use any number of things, but I just like the simple heavy metal they're called tea posts. And if you have that little extra bit offensive material at the bottom like we talked about by doing the total height of the posts about 15 centimeters or six inches last tall than the height of the fencing material. It gives you this little skirt that comes out on the ground and creates a great little barrier. So between each of the upright posts, I'm just putting down one of these little fellas. Look at that. We're golden. This is like slugs. No, man land, No slugs Gonna want to crawl across this. And, uh, it's tall enough that the deer can't jump over. We've got a deer proof garden, guys, Thanks for sticking with me is a nice afternoon working on my own to get this done. Eight posts the role of 30 meters of deer fencing that's two meters tall and a piece of bear wire around the top with some fencing staples. That's all it took. Now, with some post lying down around the perimeter on the skirt, it's all deer proof. And all I've done on this corner here is threaded the top wire through. And now when I want to go in because this will be my door, I'm just pulling this back like a shower curtain and I can walk inside and I can close it shut if I want. That's all I'm needing, right? If you want to build the door, of course, knock your cell phone if you got a bigger budget or some more time. But we're just trying to get something really simple and efficient to keep the deer out and let you get in and out easily. So there we are, dear proof garden. So, guys, I want to assume that if something's not working for me, it just might not be working for you, either. Now, I have never done a little project the scale that I'm doing on this sustainable stay Siris of videos. So I you know, I've had about a month. The fence has been up, and there's something that wasn't working for me. Two of my four corner posts started to lean into the center of the garden because the weight of the wire was kind of pulling the post forward. And the first point should be that Ah, it would have been better to angle the post slightly back away rather than straight down, which is what I did. It leaned in, so I think it's better to especially get your corner posts, leaned back a little bit from the centers that they're pulling back naturally with some tensions. That's a the first thing to consider now for me trying to right the wrong that I did by not putting my name at an angle. I put a little screw right here, and I put a little screw on a post that I put outside the main post. It's kind of like an anchor steak, and all I've done is pull a string to create some tension. And the screw here in this crew here prevents that string from sliding down and coming closer together. So now this is nice and tight on my corner post is nice and types. That's the one thing I can't assume that's working for you because it wasn't working for me . The other thing is, the deer fencing comes to this corner on two different planes, and the pieces were flapping and I knew a deer or a rabbit could just walk right through. So again, just taking some twine. I just wrapped little bowtie like you. Tie your shoes right here at the bottom and another bow tie right here that we tie your shoes the top or midway up on that way, the fencing can't flap apart and create an open space for the wind to pass through or the animals to get in. So I think it's critter proof now in a much better way than it was when I first built it. And we've dressed the leaning post by just putting a brace or a stake just outside and connecting it to some twine, wire, rope, whatever would work. OK, right on. So if you guys have been sticking with me through the deer proofing part and you've been going chapter by chapter with me, we've scoped out where we're going to set out backyard abundance for orientation, to the sun and with the yard or the space that you have to work with. We've built the different garden beds, that of different materials, depending on your budget and how quickly you want to build it. We've brought soil into those spaces and layered it like lasagna. We haven't addressed any weeds or grass with polling or chemicals. We put down cardboard and chips, and we basically just nuked it all the grass and weeds and whatever was growing just by covering with cardboard and chips. We've now, dear proofed. And the next step we're gonna go on to next chapter is gonna be setting up drip irrigation . Is that with just turning on and turning off little taps? You've got drip irrigation in all your beds and then we're gonna set up to plant It just keeps getting better. Don't lose heart if you're getting a little tired or you don't have enough time because keep in mind, we're setting this up step for 10 or 20 years. You can keep guarding in the same place, takes bit of work. It's well worth it. Stick with it. You're gonna love it. 4. Chapter 6 The Key to Irrigation: Hey, welcome, everybody. Another chapter to backyard abundance, And this chapter is all about dialing in on drip irrigation. We want to go from a regular conventional garden hose that most people use with a sprinkler , which sprays and wastes a lot of water, much of which evaporates, much of which waters the weeds and isn't very successful at nourishing the plants you really want to grow. We're going to conserve a lot of water, target the water right to the plants that we want to grow, and the way we're going to do that is transition from a garden hose to drip line, which every 30 centimeters 12 inches has a dripper that releases four leaders or but one gallon of water every hour. And that's going to be set up with parallel lines of this drip line in each of the garden, beds get a little bit ahead of myself, so I just want to backtrack and let you know where we are at this point in backyard abundance. If you're just joining us now to get going, we looked at how we're gonna orient our garden space wherever we're setting it up in our place that it's gonna get maximum sun exposure and be the most vigorous to grow with just the orientation we put it in, we specked out the size of its six or seven paces square. And then, from there we decided we were gonna put in three garden beds for optimal growth in productivity. Each one of the ones we've done here on this project has been made of different materials based on different budgets, different curb appeal or presentation just depending where you're out of the process, how much work and time and money you want to put into it. But they reach roughly the same size but a meter, meter and 1/2 wide and about four meters long, wide enough, hopefully to get three drip lines in each one narrow enough to put a simple PVC hoop house over it for winter and fall planting to extend your growing season. So then, after we had set that up, we targeted all the ground around the perimeter of our beds with cardboard and did it with bark chips. On top of that, it basically nuked all the weeds, using no chemicals and no heavy labor, just cardboard and bark chips. Then we lasagna layered the contents inside the beds. There's gonna be lots of good moisture retention, great nourishment for the plants. And so that's ready to grow seeds or starts when we put them in. Then we fenced it all, so it's deer proof in its rabbit proof. We've done all the hard heavy work. Now we're getting to the fun stuff where there's not much more expense. And we're just on the brink of planting seeds and starts and having our own truly awesome backyard or front yard abundance. So I'm gonna take you through the steps and stages of setting up drip line irrigation so you can see how to do it. Mastered at your own place. Become the basically the master of your domain on this project. It's really fun and invigorating to do so. Stick around, Stick with me. Here we go. We'll do it step by step. Okay, so for this half inch drip line, that's where using half inch trip line, which has the ah drip line sports every 30 centimeters, 12 inches, we're gonna first of all, start off with the guard knows that we've talked about it, got the garden hose adaptor and the female end. We're gonna put it on to the pressure reducer pressure reducer at the other end is gonna go too a solid not drip line, but just solid line with no drips in it. And thats gonna run to where your bed starts and from there you're gonna start attaching things. Now the attachments are always done with a simple tool and a coupling or a connector. You can see them here on the bench. There's the coupling or connector, and this is designed to go right on top of it like that when it's wrapped around a hose or whatever. And so we'll have different fittings, will have tee fittings that are shaped like a T. Say you can do a line off of that. We'll have fittings that just turn corners. 90 degree bends like els. And if you have a cut or a break in your hose, you need to extend it. You could just put an in line connector like that. In each case, you're just gonna shove the hose up the ribs of the connector, and this will be on the hose already, and your squeeze it tight. Little crimp. It won't leak. You'll have taps like this to turn each line on and off, just a simple on off tap. So you have solid on perforated line coming in and you have drip line coming off to run dripped down the end. When you come to the end of the run on your garden dead, you could just stop that. Read up the butt of the hose. It's just a dead end. Or, if you want, you can just take your hose like this, and you could just bend it over once like that and when it's bent over once, you could just put a wrap tape around it, and it'll stop dripping right there. The hose will expand and contract a little bit in heat and cold. And so if you want it to stay really straight in your bed, which could be a little tough because it might rankle a bit. You can have a garden stake like that. What? You'll just hold the drip line down. And if you want to anchor it to the wooden garden bed in any way, any of the lines you could just use a little half inch PVC coupling like that and you know , with little would screw like that, you could just anchor it down. That's all the parts and pieces you need. It's not difficult. And here's the other really cool thing. I've bought the drip line like this. It's in a coil. This is kind of the minimum increment that you can buy half inch drip line where I go to you can go to a home improvement store or maybe an irrigation store. A garden supply center and half inch drip line like this costs me under $50. The non perforated no drip line in it. Just the header line only costs $15. With the pressure reducer and all the different parts and pieces. The entire project for this bed will be about $100. If you have to buy this tool because you don't have it yet, you might end up as high as 150. With all the different parts and pieces and connectors and couplings and everything like that, we're gonna put in 100 feet of line, which is a bit over 30 meters. I'll talk feet just for a second because each of these beds that we've done is 12 feet long , or about four meters. This is kind of cool to realize this is 100 foot roll. Two of the beds were gonna have three lines each. So 36 feet in one bed, 36 feet in the other bed. That's 72 feet altogether Right. Then there's 1/3 bed, which we did a little narrow, narrower in the landscape ties. We're gonna put the biggest plants in that narrow landscape. Tie bed. It's only gonna have to Rosa drip line. So two twelves, which would be 24 feet at the 24 feet to the previous 72 feet. How much do you get? 96 feet. How much did we get in a roll? 100 feet. So 100 foot role is going to do all three garden beds with theoretically, four feet left over. Isn't that a beautiful thing? So not very expensive? When you look at how we're doing it, it's gonna be cheaper than buying a sprinkler in a garden hose. And it's gonna work for years and years and years and years, and you'll save so much water you won't be watering any weeds, either, really, fun to set up trip line irrigation. So I've started a laying out the irrigation at the last bed where the water is going to stop. That's the dead end of the header line, so you can see I've put a measuring tape. I've measured the center of the bed. I've decided. I want my middle of three taps on the bed to be there and one equidistant on each side from it. And so I've gone with solid line as my header line. Put in A T. Always had a coupling on in each case, and I've just put a little piece of solid line here, about six inches long. So if something breaks, I could reconnect. It goes along now. It's not a hot day today, so this stuff still just came off a circular role. So it's It's not flexing super nicely, so it's a little curvy, but you can see they're not pointing up crazy and they're pointing down crazy. They're just flattened. Ready now. I could just put my drip line down each of the ends of the beds when I'm getting to this out of the bed right here. I've put in 90 on it and that 90 is ready to go down to the ground and then scooch over to the next bed, where I'll continue the header line on and then to the bed prior to that. So we're just setting it up that way. Okay, so we've got all the irrigation ready to roll. What I want you to realize because all the lines that air header lines are not perforated with no drip. Every one of these taps is running independently. If water's coming into the pressure reducer. So I've got three tops in this bed. Three Tepes in that bed, two taps in this bed for a total of eight. Now there is enough power. I can run all eight at once. I can run all late at once if I want to. There's enough pressure. But if I only wanted to run water this row or just that Roe or just that dead, I would only turn on those specific taps. Okay, so every tap will independently water whatever row I want it too. That's a good thing to note. Okay, so again, the pressure reducers here with the garden hose coming in. So if I turn off the garden hose. That's how I turn off my whole irrigation system. With the exception of one or two drips. There's really no water loss, but it's not worth leaving it pressurized all the time number. What I told you before this year is a filter that removes when you unscrew that you can clean it out at any time. So now I just want to take you in on a close up zoom to let you see the drips dripping out of the trippers every 30 centimeters or every 12 inches. There's a dripper here and we'll just zoom in the cameras. You can see what happens when we pressurize a line. Okay, so when we're gonna be ready to plant, will just remove all these coffee sacks and do that. But for now, just to show the drip line turning on. So here we're just gonna turn the tap on, and immediately you can see the drip starting to drift right there. Right. There's another one here every 30 centimeters. And remember how much that's gonna do. One gallon or four leaders every hour. So that sketch gonna slowly soak into the soil, and now you've got targeted water now realize that as the water goes in, the longer you leave your tap on and the drip happens, the more of the water spreads under the soil surface, so the baby roots of the plant will extend up to where the water is and they'll access it. And basically these two drips that air this far apart. On the surface, that water is actually traveling underground to meet. They had only has to travel six inches or 15 centimeters for that water to travel, and it'll do that within less than an hour. So if you turn it on for an hour, everything is soaked underneath the surface of the soil, and that's it. We're US number irrigation. So simple. Ah, a friendly little helper when you're connecting your solid header line to your pressure reducer is to use a little bit of plumber's tape. Very thin type of Teflon tape. When it goes over the threads and you thread things together, just ensures there's no lip leaks or drips anywhere there. So it just does a little better job of tightening things up rather than just having plastic threads going into plastic threads. Put that over the threaded area just keeps you a little more drip free. Okay, so that concludes this chapter of the drip irrigation part of backyard abundance. We've got about 30 meters close to 100 feet of drip line out. We've got a header line that runs from the pressure reducer toe all the beds, an independent tap for each line that runs down each bed. It's all connected with couplings in a crimp er for me to do all of this. I have done it before, acknowledge I had all the supplies and showed you what I had ready to go with the start of the video. It took me just under two hours. Start to finish, maybe an hour and 1/2 and I didn't take any breaks I just booked through. It's about 90 minutes, maybe two hours a year, poking along or you stop for a drink, but not a whole lot of time to now have permanent irrigation set up for all the beds, were ready to plant now seeds and starts her next. That's what we're gonna shoot for on the next part of backyard butts 5. Chapter 7 Your Garden Gameplan: Hey, everybody, welcome to this chapter of backyard abundance. This is all about getting your game on and having a very clear plan and what you're gonna put in each year garden beds, that abundance becomes reality. I'm actually setting up these gardens for a real person who lives on our property, and she's wanting a variety of veggies. And she's a pretty avid gardener, and she gave me a list of 30 different things. She was hoping to grow in these beds. And so I got busy in my mind thinking about what would go well together. And you'll come across readily in gardening circles, this topic of companion planting what goes well together. So we're gonna look at companion planting and what are the best neighbors in the garden beds that we can get everybody going together in a synergistic way where whoever is a neighbor to whomever else is gonna be mutually benefitting from that relationship. That's the whole goal of what we're going to do. So we're gonna get ready to jump into that. And before we do that, we're just gonna review where we're at in the process. If you're just jumping into this chapters that you understand what got us to here before we start looking at the garden game plan for backyard abundance? Okay, so, uh, I've got a game plan for this backyard abundance, like I mentioned. And before we jump into it, I do just want to show you, you know, I've got this thing all sketched it on cardboard. And I've got my handy dandy asparagus pointers that I can show you where to go on what to do and just a few ideas and suggestions. But before we go there with the asparagus pointer, I just want to review if you're new to the chapter where we've come from on the backyard abundance plan on the whole digital book of what you could be looking at, We first of all, looked at this idea of about two parking stalls Arabia back area that was not really realizing its full potential for you or your family where you live, the ideas how to make it abundant and vigorous and plentiful for you. So backyard abundance is the title. Though it might be in your front yard. We figured out how to orient it best to the sun. I'm looking South so if I'm a veggie, I get my leaves, my solar panels out. This is a good orientation for anything that wants direct light, which is generally what you're looking at. Growing veggies, Right? Then we scoped out an area that was manageable. This is about six paces by seven paces, so think six meters by seven meters. If you're dealing with standard measurement, it's about 100 feet around that. If you buy 100 feet of fencing for dear proofing, that works really well. We put down cardboard and chips to cover everything so that there was no weeds or grass coming through. There was no need for chemicals. No need for digging, just free ingredients, cardboard and chips. Then we built three garden beds using three different materials that each one's kind of reflecting a different budget, different amount of time or energy. You want to put in depending on your preference. We filled each bed with layers or lasagna type top of top of layers so that there would be minimal weeding. Good moisture control, lots of nutrition coming to the plants. We set up dear proof Rabbit proof perimeter with just simple tree steak fence posts netting around there have a gate that kind of opens like a shower curtain just on a slide set up drip irrigation going to every one of the beds. And each of the three beds has either two or three rows of drip irrigation, and every 30 centimeters every 12 inches there's a drip. So we're just gonna target ah, plan to be planted as a seed or as a start, right at each drink. So that's kind of an overview of what got us to this point. And now we're ready to actually talk about what we're gonna plant where and what's the best companion plants to put together related to that orientation. And most of all, what's your appetite? What do you want to grow? So let's look at that. Okay, guys, So we're already destroyed. The sketch it on. Ah, cardboard. Just you can see it. We're talking about main idea that I'm working with. That you love my spirit. Disappointed by the way, is we're trying to set up companion synergistic relationships where the plants that our neighbors are gonna help each other out. So one is either going to attract good insects or repel insects that are gonna be targeting and harming up plant, possibly bring up nutrition from the soil. Or they're gonna complement each other in terms, terms of the shade or the nutrients they bring to each other. I've noted here just kind of little compass rose Which way? A south. So when I talk about in front of or behind of, I'm talking about kind of the tall person blocking you from the screen versus the short person who's not blocking you from the screen. You want to think about that because all the leaves of the plants or solar panels you got a Orient. The tallest stuff, too. The back of the gardener, the north end of the garden so that the little stuff at the front gets lots of sun and attention, right? So just noted here that it's, Ah, about seven meters along the side that might not be decide you're working with, but just to show you the constraints were working with. And it's about six meters along the front. So a six by seven meter, which is, you know, gonna work out to close to 100 feet around the whole perimeter. If you look at that all almost got three beds each or about 1.5 meters by about four meters , or about 4 to 5 feet wide by about 12 feet long and the little dotted black lines. Here are the drip lines for the irrigation. So there's two in this bed, and there's three in each of these two beds. So a total of eight drip lines and I'm just going to show you, walk you through what I've chosen as my planting plan here. Which is a really great thing to sketch it on paper like this. I've taken the list from the person for whom I'm building this garden, and I've put in what I think's gonna work best. So you can see here. I have chosen along this back wall of the garden, where I can put something tall that's not gonna shade anything else. Pole beans. If it was the other end of the garden, I might use bush beans. Pole beans will grow taller. They'll take a little longer, but they'll give you way more harvest per square foot if you have pole beans. So off to put in some polls to plant the pole beans and will plant the seeds right where the drip spots are on the irrigation line. Cucumbers are going to spill over obits there at the end of a bed, where they can hopefully spill into the walkway or the pathway. And then along this trip line, I'm gonna put two things like pairs of will have tomatoes and peppers on one side of the line and probably put cages around them. Deborah, protect them and help them vine up and grow, and then beets and radishes along there. Now just turn the planting planet bits. You can see it well there. Along here, I'm thinking of putting potatoes down the edge and then some carrots and parsnips, so some root veg that does not get very big. So there should be lots of room to put in something else on the other side of that line. And if you ever study anything about companion planting, one of the best examples that shows up is that carrots love onions or vice versa. So something in the onion, family, garlic or scallions leeks would all do really well beside carrots and then lots of mixed greens for the salads and the fresh things right? And then on the final bed here, just looking toe have charred and some more greens. Turnips, which is obviously a root vegetable. And again, if you don't like those things, put another stuff and then things that are in the cabbage family, which are often called crucify vers. You could have cauliflower, cabbage, broccoli or some other things like that, and then a whole row of herbs down this side. So this could be things again, like cilantro, dill, rosemary, thyme, parsley, little bits of all that. And then, at this end, I'm expecting to have a couple squash plants, which will hopefully spill over into the pathway here, cause squash is often a little hard to contain. And she had requested maybe that we had put some patty pans in there. I'm kind of partial to zucchini, so we'll see what ends up in there and back again to the top, this question mark that we have to respond to all the time when we look at our timelines in our budget, or do you want to use seeds or dont you starts and starts means that they've been started from seeds and they're getting going. So if you learn about saving seeds, which is something I've done a lot education on and you can especially save your own seeds , it also saves a lot of money. You get a nice, robust plant that's growing, and then you put it in your garden, ready to go right at your drip line. Well, you save often a month into six weeks if you plant that start at the right time, rather planting a seed at the right time. But if you're starting from almost nothing in your garden plan, you might just buy some pack of the seeds and start everything from seed. So those air options based on budget based on time and what resources they have access to either one's as good as the next. Just a matter of what you choose. So that is the whole deal on cardboard of the backyard abundance and my goodness, it's time to start planting. Here we go, Good bye, asparagus pointer 6. Day 30 Celebration Part 1: Hey, guys, it's our third update. It's day 30. We did a day Tana Day. 20 were Day 30 ish. Now I think it's day 31. Actually, the beds are pumping were truly in the midst of what we set out to accomplish, which is backyard abundance. There's a couple setbacks like there always are in real life, but there's a whole lot of victories to celebrate. So today we're just gonna go through a few of the overviews and updates on where things are at. We're gonna do a harvest, got my bowl along, gonna fill it up with greens and all sorts of good stuff. And we're gonna do a few maintenance things that we can do to just improve the quality and the performance of the garden. So we just keep on scene it pump. You'll notice here, no weeds. There will be a few places there are some will show you what to dio. We've got incredible things to look forward to with the tomatoes and a lot of greens to harvest. So let's just work our way through it and see were at first thing we're gonna do guys is just celebrate some harvesting So look at this cucumber plant. There's a couple of little babies in here, but what I want you to see is this fella ready to harvest. I'm just gonna snip moth. If you're careful, you can twist him off. Just take a look at that cucumber. That's beautiful. A look at it. It's 30 centimeters long. There's lots more little ones coming in, lots of flowers, and it's just getting its water off the drip irrigation. So that's a huge start to our harvest and victory. Organic CUC. Let's keep looking for more to harvest. You may recall that we planted some radishes here that didn't take because it was old seed , but there was one radish that survived or germinated, rather a seed. So there's one little beauty, so he's ready to go and he can go into a salad or some greens. Remember, we receded some lettuce, and the lettuce is coming up beautifully here. So more little victories. So here I am with my harvest bull, and what I've got here for the greens is tatsoi, right? So tatsoi and here, closer to the camera, is charred when you start mixing it all up together in both cases. As you harvest it, it'll grow more so you bring on more abundance as you harvest. The abundance doesn't get any better that this is a purple kale. It's got purple kale, green, charred and a really dark green tatsoi that can all go in the harvest. Bull and the tatsoi on the charter both equally yummy. T raw, already eat, cooked. You could go either way with it. The tat. So if you haven't had it before, is very similar. Eating something like a bok choy. Think of it like an Asian inspired green. And the box this tatsoi, rather, is just incredibly resilient and very productive just to give you a sense on the leaf size almost as big as my pop, some of the bigger ones. And if we pick the large leaves and let the smaller ones mature more, that will just keep on pushing more nutrition and energy. Because Member, every little leaf is a solar panel. So I'm just picking more charred, bringing on the love. You can see how big these plants have grown here since we last checked in 10 days ago. There really common and when you plant dense like this, but not too dense. What you're getting is maximized energy out of the soil out of the plant, and there's no space for weeds to grow, so you can see already the bowler greens is filling up quickly. Let's keep on harvesting in other places, so the tribes has started to set up really nicely. You can tell it's routing and growing. So now we're in a position where we can take some of the bigger stocks of chives and pull that out. Use it as a green, maybe with scrambled eggs. Fred Race. Use it in a fresh salad. Look at that. We got green chives. Let's look further down the herbs robe continuing along in the ER bro, This is pretty incredible to see what's happening. All the oregano is coming along beautifully, so now there's oregano that could be picked. Doing a Greek salad or oven roasted potatoes is the first thing I think of for oregano that could go in the harvest Bull. The time has come along beautifully. I always love using time in dressings and salads. It's got such amazing flavor. Oh, I love it. So harvest the time and then the rosemary that we had started from scratch. As ah starts that we propagated in the spring has come along. All three of the plants are looking really beautiful. Check this out. Now, this is all brand new white growth you can see on the stem for the rosemary looking beautiful. So you got that for the harvest bull we've got personally coming on Parsley Ah will recede itself. So it'll just If you let a stock grow to flower and recede, you'll have that you can see the basil is come along beautifully. Look at these nice big pieces of fresh basil leaf and then the deal is growing great. This is the type of the part of the deal that you'd use for dill pickles. And then the more small Franz is something that you'd use in a sow that or spicing up a veggie dish. So all the herbs air coming on great and just such a powerful way to add flavor to your food. I think the part that I've been most looking forward to showing you guys is the zucchini because it's such a beautiful plant and it's so full of blossoms. Look at that gorgeous yellow zucchini. And if you look inside here, there's just so many others that are getting ready. I see 123456 more zucchinis, that air coming along so that can be popped into the harvest bull and ah, hidden inside the zucchini. Actually, it's really cool to see is that you've got some purple kale that's coming on and it's being shaded by the zucchini leaves, which it doesn't seem to mind it all. So we kinda have a double harvest in here cause one is kind of symbiotically blessing the other. So we got some gorgeous, gorgeous leaves of red kale there as well. Okay, let's keep on looking at more abundance. So another thing that we can do as we look through our garden and we're celebrating abundance is look at the beats and part of the thing to do with beets, cause they're gonna grow a fairly large root vegetable. You have a few options. One is you can take the leaves there beautiful raw in salads or cooked and stir fries. You don't want to take all the little solar panels off, but you can take a few. And if they're bunched a little too tightly. One of the maintenance things to do would be to take out the little one. So here's a tiny little one that's not gonna grow into much, and it frees up some space for the bigger one that's next to it to grow. So you got to thin out some space because you're thinking you want your beats to size up to be at least baseball size. So there's got to be room between each stock, so that's called finning them. You're just thinning out and you're trying to take the smallest ones whose greens you can eat. See, there's a tiny little baby beat coming off there and the bigger ones that are already forming they're gonna be able to just grow that much bigger, that much faster without any competition. So lots of good opportunities, their youth in the beats and you get greens hiding in behind. Here we have lots of lettuce. That's come on really nice. So the lettuce you can snip away out, take your biggest leaves as well. And out of that, it's gonna grow more leaves. The small ones will size up, so it's pretty awesome. Lettuces okay with less than completely full sun. And so even the lettuce plants that are growing in between the tomatoes or doing fine. And we're gonna work a little bit on the tomatoes now in a little bit of improvement. So here we go on that. So we're gonna shift gears a little bit. Now we've moved from the harvest part kind of or viewing all the abundance that we've got and just a za refresh. We've got this big bowl now that's full of zucchini, cucumber, herbs and a huge variety of green. So there's a piles of flavor there, and we're only at day 30 and we've got some gigantic produce that we're celebrating and all sorts of good things for salads and cooking and fresh. Oh my goodness. And my goodness were only a day 30. So imagine how much more we have to celebrate. But we're gonna move along in tow, showing some love to the tomatoes which, as you can see, are already 60 70 centimeters tall. They're in their cages, and one of the key things that I've been doing is moving the top branches to the top most wire that they can reach over us that when they grow fruit, they'll be supported with the weight. So one of the main things to consider for tomatoes and their health is that if they're gonna have disease or a problem, it's going to start from the ground up. So any time you can remove bottom branches that are below any of the first flowers, you're gonna improve the health of the plant and its chances of not getting disease, especially if you're in the outdoors and not in a greenhouse. I normally grow my tomatoes in a greenhouse, but if you get by with a fairly dry season, you can make it disease free outside and we'll see how we do. So I'm cutting off smaller branches that are downloaded the ground. You never want overhead water a tomato, because when a splash of moisture comes up from the soil, which is where some disease could be resident, you can end up with that disease coming onto your tomatoes. So what I'm trying to do is make sure that no foliage, no leaves, are touching the soil, so we're taking off our lowest ones first, and most would advise, and I agree it's safest to trim branches that are below the first flowers. Usually the flowers which will turn to fruit are not gonna be really low down on the plant are flowers in this case are up right about here, if you can see them. So they're 30 centimeters or more above the ground, so below that level, I'm pretty okay with removing leaves to prevent splatter of any disease that would come up to the plant. So by doing that, I am also then creating a little bit more sunlight for the beets that are down below because they're struggling to get enough, uh, sunlight. But now, with taking off these lower branches, that's gonna help. That's gonna provide more energy than to go to fruit coming off of the flower. So I'm just gonna go along. I'm not gonna make you follow along and get bored watching every single plant that I do. I'm just creating a bit of ah, disease prevention and also some light to flow in for the lettuce that's here for the beats . Another thing to point out is that air circulation is cool with any fruiting plant and so tomatoes being kind of fruity, you have to have air circulation through, so the fruit doesn't rot as it sets up and starts to mature. So I'm just gonna go down the road and do that with the rest of the tomatoes. Now, that's what you'd want to do as well at this point. 7. Day 30 Celebration Part 2: Okay, we've moved along and were in the potato section. Now imagine that only 30 days ago we put tiny little potatoes the size of golf balls into here. And now we've got plants that are 30 to 40 centimeters tall. Now, every part of a potato stem. Congrats, potatoes, especially if it's covered in soil. And you don't want your potatoes to grow on the surface exposed to sun, cause then they'll get green and then they're actually not healthy. They could be considered poisonous. So all I'm doing now for this row, which is, as you know, 12 feet four meters long as I've brought two pails of additional soil. And I'm just going to start mounding soil up against the plants. And I'm okay with covering some of the plant stems themselves. And in so doing, I'm providing more habitat for the potatoes toe, actually grow potatoes on their plants. So I'm just gonna Heaphy Pete this And with all that extra coverage as I go along the road , there's gonna be way more places for the potatoes to produce. So I've just dumped about ah, 10 kilo pail of soil onto this, and it's member got coffee sacks on the other side on the other side of the plant. So there will be potatoes growing under the coffee sacks as well. The deeper the soil is around the plant, the less you'll have toe water it as well. I've got a second pail down here that you can probably see how? Just move this pale out of the way. And with this pale, I'm hoping to do the balance of the road. So I'm just cruising all the way down and just offering soil toe all the plants to cover up . And by the time we're out our next update at the 40 day update I think we're gonna be looking at starting to harvest some beautiful new potatoes from these plants. Check it out. Right here. There's a volunteer chart that came up, So we're gonna have charred growing beside the potatoes that I didn't even plant there. Yea, for the extra love. So in gardening, as in real life, not everything works out as hoped. For this is our lettuce row. And as I've mentioned before in the updates, the lettuce started out great. And then it started to die, and I thought it was heat. And then I discovered wire worms and wire worms are nasty little creatures who take 2 to 3 years to become click beetles and the whole time they feed on the roots of your plants in your garden. Well, the lettuce has been basically, uh, decimated. There's basically nothing left in this row, so Well, there's lots of abundance in all the neighboring rose. The lettuce has succumbed to the wire worm eso. What I'm gonna do now is just start again with something else. The lettuce isn't gonna survive right now. I've got a solution that I'm gonna hit later on with you guys. But for now, in a plant, something. The key here is that I know. I've got at least Ah, at least 90 to 100 days before I have Frost. I've got lots of gardening season left here 90 to 100 days before I have Frost is fine. So all I'm doing now is planting something else. And on the side that I'm planting right now where I just put a little row in, I'm gonna plan to beat charred combo. The seeds look almost identical there from seeds I saved last season. So I'm gonna get some more greens in here to plant, and they will have no problem harvesting up to maturity. And so far we haven't seen the chart or the beats negatively affected by the wire worm. If it's here, it was soil that was purchased. So I didn't know there was gonna be larva from a beetle in it. But you know what? That's what happens with life and gardening. So now I've planted the charge and beat combo, and I've got some really cool little seeds here. I'll just let you see them. And those are seeds for some yellow beans that are bush beans. So they're not gonna grow really tall, which means their lifespan is much shorter. They go to maturity much quicker than a pole bean. And we've already planted pole beans, which are working away growing behind the tomatoes near the sunflowers. So I'm just gonna go along here and plant these being seeds as well. So if both of these rows come up nicely, they'll be very densely packed. There'll be a lot of food here, more things to celebrate. Probably 40 to 60 days from now, we're in a Brooklyn were about the 7200 day mark. So I'm just gonna go along and poke everything into the soil, water it and we'll be back to everything being planted, including the lettuce row that died. We've got a couple more little updates to show you and will be done our 30 day update. I'm just outside the backyard abundance project here, and I'm doing a little bit of a happy dance because I noticed this when I was cycling in the other day. This is a fake tree and it's, you know, a bit taller than I am. It's about three meters tall. It the tallest. Here's a branch that's already got some figures growing on it. This is the netting to keep oh dear from the backyard abundance project. And look at the leaves. All the leaves have been eaten off of this fig tree. Completely gone. Completely gone. Ah, no, dear went inside back here in abundance. So pretty excited, cause there's actually dear excrement all around the perimeter. They've been resting under my Plumtree, eating off of my fig tree and betting down right here in the grass. But thanks be peaceful coexistence with backyard abundance they haven't gone over the fence . That's about two meters tall. So they're getting some stuff that I'm letting them get. But there, thankfully not getting at the garden that were fenced off from the deer. So yea, big victory, 90% of the perimeter. This whole garden is weed free. And this spot seemed to have a really strong thistle patch that was here when we started with the cardboard and chips and you might have the same experience when you set up a backyard abundance project. I'm just going to show you what I'm gonna dio, which is a simple is when we started. You can get at whatever we do. You want to pull it, I guess which could take a bit of work. I don't mind doing that, but pulling weeds is not really a great idea for the most part, because it's a lot of work. And so we gotta get rid of those. They also make playing in the garden barefoot, kind of painful. I'm gonna toss them over for now. But what I would suggest doing, actually, is something as simple as this. I'm just gonna bust up their roots with my shovel like that. There's no plant that's attached to the ground when that's done, That's a cardboard, which is exactly how we started the whole project, right? And gonna grab some cardboard and put it down. And we're just going to reload exactly how we started the whole project. Remember that we made our isles wide enough to get a wheelbarrow in here. Isn't that a lot easier than weeding? So all I'm doing then is basically adding another layer on top of all those thistles and saying, You can't stand up to that one baby there. We've got our weed victory, and we've just got a nice soft space to walk, and there's nothing more to worry about. So that could be a simple way if you do that, you know, once or twice a season where there is a problem that more cardboard bit more chips, you eradicate the weed problem. And don't do any weeding. Okay? So yeah. Yeah, baby, That's Day 30. Check in number three. We've done a notary of the garden. We've harvested zucchini and cucumber and a whole variety of greens and herbs. We've kind of back filled the potatoes we've pruned and trimmed the tomatoes. We've managed weeds that are in the garden. We've receded an area where the lettuce were taken out by the wire worms and we've celebrated that the deer proof fencing is working there, eating outside the garden They're not eaten inside, were on the pathway to abundance Keep rockin until they 40 guys keep going. 8. Day 40 Celebration Part 1: everybody. Welcome to the day 40 ish update. It's our fourth update on backyard abundance. It's crazy to see what's happened in the last 10 days in our area. It's hit 30 degrees or so most of the days over the past week, which in Fahrenheit is coming into around 90 F. So 30 degrees gets hot, which means you got to make sure you got water and everything. And if you do things, get crazy quickly, and that's exactly what's been happening. I'm just going to show you around a little bit, give you a sense of what's going on. The first thing I'm gonna go to is the tatsoi. That's right here, the dark green that's closest to me. It's going to start doing what greens do when they're put to a lot of heat, which is go to seed. So I'll show you what that looks like and how to respond. And we'll go through this bed first and just go around the garden and take a few notes as we go. So stay tuned. Here we roll so usually leafy greens. I don't like a lot of heat, and when they start to get heat they think about reproducing quickly so you can see exactly what this tatsoi has been doing. It's getting ready to flower and produce some seedpods. It's not a bad thing if you want to save seeds for next season. All of this tat so has grown from seeds from last season. But if you start picking off the seed pods, here's another one that's starting to grow. It's not quite as far along, but you can see the seeds. Aaron, they're getting to go and you pluck that off. You're going to delay the going to cede part. You're gonna able to keep on harvesting. This is nice and dense. Pull off your brown stuff that's falling apart. Pull off any stuff that's succumbing to the heat. You can feed that chickens if you have him, put him in your compost or just put it back under the soil and compost in. So that's one thing to do is to just lengthen out the greens. The chart, on the other hand, is doing amazing. I knew it would grow taller than the tatsoi, so it's purposely planted more on the sunny side and shading the Tatsuo and the charge can tolerate the heat a lot better. These leaves will keep getting bigger and bigger. Take a look now at how big the chard leaves were getting. So that's my palm and the charges as big as my palms. So that's gonna keep growing. And that's just amazing. Every day I'm using that, usually with my eggs in the morning. You may remember this little cabbage plant from a long time ago. I think 20 days ago, when we looked inside it, we saw some a Fiddes. Well, now you can see it's a food free, and all I did was exactly what I recommended. I mixed up a solution with mostly water and a little bit of oil and a little bit of soap, and I sprayed that on and all the A foods died. You can see a few of the leaves or she'll showing a little bit aware from that spray because that it did affect him a little bit. But all the new leaves air fine, and there's no a foods on it, so it's grown in size like mad, so that's been a really good development. And then I'll just show you a little bit of what's above and beyond behind that one. I want to take you to the part of the bed that's back over here. Now. This part had not fully ah, consistently seated in when I planted. So since last update on day 30 and now Day 40 all I did was I took some of the extra kale that had come up in different places. And I just dug little holes on either side of the drip line and I put them in. And, you know, even with 30 degree heat that we've had, it's all taken off just fine, because I just sunk it really deep into the grounds that the roots were down low. I just transplanted them from wherever else in the bed they were. And look at this. Now I've got a full, beautifully packed bed of kale and all this is from what was seated. Originally, it just got moved to a better location. So that's packed in beautifully. Now we're gonna go a little further beyond and look at this crazy zucchini plant at the back. Okay? So check out the zucchini plant. What's been happening here? It's been growing very well. I've been picking a few for different neighbors and friends. If you're gentle on a zucchini plant, you can generally get away with a twist if you don't have a knife for a scissor. So looking out along that beauty is there's the blossom end. If you're not aware of everything that's going on a new zucchini plant, keep in mind that there's mail and there's female flowers. So anyone that has a fruit audit is a female. So this is a female. This is a female. This one here has no fruit on it. So this one here is a male. So there's pollination happening between those flowers. If you look down below here, I'm just gonna turn this a little bit more if you're able and you zoom in a little bit to see the darker orange one. This one's a little hidden away, but it didn't set right, so I know that that one's not going to develop well, and I'm gonna take it off because it's preventative. If you look a little more closely at this one, you can see this end. That was the blossom end, not the stem in that was connected to plant, but the blossom end. It's kind of shriveled, so it's not healthy. It's not developing well, so it's just taking energy off the plant without giving out a good piece of fruit. So I've just removed that right away, whereas all the others are developing well and they're going to do great. There's 123 about six different zucchinis. That air coming off that plant at once. Is that not amazing? Remember, this row had wire worm. We originally had lettuce in here and some of the lettuces survived. But for the most part, it's been taken up by wire worm. And so we receded a day 30. And if you look down carefully and just gonna check in here right down here, you see the new seeds coming up here. So we put chard and beets on this side of the drip line. We put beans over on this side, which will take a few more days to sprout. But all that's germinating. I just kept it moist and then ah, continuing on over in the bed. If you just look a little bit up and over, you can see the carrots and the onions air coming along beautifully. They're coming fantastic. But then you gotta look way up like friendly giant to see what's next door. And that's the potatoes. Okay, so this is pretty exciting because I mean the potatoes here, As you can see along these potatoes, there are flowers coming out, the flowers on potatoes air. Fascinating, because potatoes air actually in the same plant family as tomatoes. They're called night shades. And what will come out really strangely on some of these blossoms is what looks like tiny little baby tomatoes. They aren't actually tomatoes, and they're not edible either. They're actually poisonous, but what will be inside those as they form in mature is actually tiny seeds, which can be saved and turned into seeds to grow potatoes. Although normally traditionally, as with this road, we grow potatoes from planting potatoes. Remember, at day 30 we put lots of soil over top of the already growing tomato plants and that just cause the tomatoes, the potatoes, rather to keep on going Well, now these things are well, if I stand up, it's almost waist high. These air 40 50 centimeters high already. So these potatoes air really growing their blossoming, and you can actually tell if you know potatoes from this color of violet type of flower that it's red potatoes, that you'll remember that we planted here. So I think by the next days we come around, we're gonna be able Teoh start actually digging in and harvesting my day 50. That's what I hope so potatoes are rocking. Let's go to the last of the three bets. 9. Day 40 Celebration Part 2: this bed's kind of out of control and how vigorous it is. There's just so much going on. The flowers are beautiful, where the radishes didn't grow and replanted lettuce. The lettuce is coming on beautifully. There's green peppers coming in that fill the size of the palm of my hand. The cucumber that's over here is crazy. Member. We harvested a massive cucumber from this plant last time. A day. 30. Well, it's got dozens of baby cucumbers growing on it, so we're gonna talk more about that cucumber a little bit. The sunflowers are growing up over a meter tall, the pole beans, air growing up, a swell. The tomatoes. They're as tall as I. When I'm seated, there's beats growing like mad, and I can see the actual beet root forming that's in the soil. And then the lettuces vigorous behind that because it's quite enjoying the shade and not going to seed in the heat because it's shaded, which is what it wants. Remember, we took off the bottom flowers and stems. Sorry, the bottom leaves and stems of the tomato plants that get more light than into the beats and the lettuce that's here. So this bed is just completely pumping. It's so vigorous and full and there's actually tomatoes forming now that are almost the size of golf balls, and they will try to get an image of a few. And then we're gonna take a peek of the cucumber a little further, so it's a little bit hard to see the tomato that's in here. I took a photo of it that you might be able to see you right now, and it's already golf ball size. And there's a lot of tomatoes forming. So all I'm doing as the tomato leaves and stems keep growing is putting them out of the top of the cage. That they have a high support wire is possible and then allowing a lot of light to get in at the lettuce and at the beats that air down below. Everything's been doing fantastic. Okay, let's go over to look at the cucumber now, so, guys, you can see this cucumbers really growing. It's got the peppers and the marigolds and lettuce in front. It's got the sunflower in the poll being growing on this side, and it's starting to spread and spread, and the sun is that way, and it's falling over the back of the bed. So I want to create a little bit of a plan where it can grow and get maximum sun exposure without climbing up all the other things around it. Let's give it something to grow on. Here we go. So what I've done is I've cut to pieces of wood. They might look like I'm going to war, but I'm not. I'm just gonna put them parallel to each other into the soil and a bit of an angle, kind of creating, kind of like a ah solar panel would to catch as much sun as possible on a sunny day and then on to those I'm just gonna attach a few lateral slats and hopefully it'll climb up this just like it would've ladder. You could do the same with a piece of netting. You could prop a skid or a palette up a swell in any one of those ways will create a bit of a platform facing the sun that I think the cucumbers gonna love growing up, and it's gonna take a lot less space up in your garden growing onto everything around it. So Let's try putting that together. Okay, So while I'm hoping to do here is to get these two boards in here and creates in space for them. Hopefully I can get the minute the same angle is gonna knock him into the hammer and in so doing, get a great way for them to grow. Okay, that one's in nice and strong. Now, now we're gonna put this one that's in parallel to it, and then we'll put the cross slats on. Okay, We got to strong slats that are parallel to each other. Now I'm gonna do is put some lateral slats. They're going to go across here kind of like a ladder. So I put a few of these on here and then all check back in with you. All I've done is selected some screws that are not gonna be too long. They can go through both pieces of wood without sticking out and creating a sharp edge. So, basically, we created a tiny little cucumber ladder. We've now guided the pieces or the vines of cucumber growing up, and it's going to start elevating itself on here, and in this way it gets elevation and catches more sun, so it's gonna want to come up, and as a result, it's not gonna troll us onto the path or climate the beanpole or drag on the sunflower or go over the paper in the front. I think it's gonna be a beautiful thing, and I used scrap wood hammer to knock it in and a drill that was it. Here's another really good opportunity to see the difference between a female flower and a male flower on a cucumber plant if you didn't know before. Yes, there's male and female flowers on cucumber plants. So the female flower you confined because there's a little tiny cucumber starting up and the flowers on the tip of it. The blossom end. And this is a male flower. Here. There's no fruit. There's no cucumber. It's just a flower coming off the stem. No cucumber. So a B has to come and pollinate getting onto the male flower, drag Paul and over and put it onto the female flower for that cucumber attached to the female flower to actually successfully grow. Otherwise, the cucumber will just kind of start to rot decay, and it won't really grow or take off if I just take the camera and I just go down a little bit Here, look at this. Now here's a female flower that's now finished out. It's been pollinated we could take it off and right here is the cucumber. That was successfully, the flower is pollinated. So the cucumbers growing and then down below, you've got some other little ones the flowers falling off of this one. So I don't think it got pollinated. So probably this one's gonna fall off. It won't succeed. It's better to just take it off now and not have the compute comer plant put energy into it . So male and female and it's got to be pollinated. Very cool. Hey, All right, guys. So that kind of wraps up the day 40 update. We got a little cucumber ladder in the background. You've learned a little bit, hopefully about male and female flowers and how the pollination works. And I will just add to you that if it's an heirloom variety of cucumbers and you want to save the seeds, you can wait till that cucumbers really ripe on the vine way riper than you'd wanna pick it to eat it probably to the point where it's getting yellow and getting old and tired. Then plock it. Take it indoors. Let it get even riper, and it's gonna let thesis EADS inside that heirloom cucumber totally develop and mature. And at that point, if you cut open the cucumber lengthwise, you be able to pull it seeds that you can dry out. Just a air temperature in the room, preferably not the kitchen, where it's moist and those dry seeds will shrink a little bit. And now you've just saved heirloom cucumber seeds that you can plant next season. Well, a grow, Um, and save him. Isn't that wonderful? So thanks for joining in on the day 40 of the backyard Abundance. Uptick on. We'll be back again in 10 days.