Alcohol Ink Fluid Art Abstract With Golds | Sealed with Resin | Kellie Chasse | Skillshare

Alcohol Ink Fluid Art Abstract With Golds | Sealed with Resin

Kellie Chasse, Artist/Instructor ✅ 15+ Years

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13 Lessons (1h 7m)
    • 1. Fluid Art Introduction

      1:35
    • 2. Pinata Gold Demo

      6:56
    • 3. Jacquard Powered Pigment Demo

      3:53
    • 4. Krylon Gold Pen and Tools Demo

      8:50
    • 5. Taping your Aquabord to prevent help prevent leaks

      3:35
    • 6. Painting Step 1 Pinata Gold

      8:33
    • 7. Painting Step 2 Jacquard Powered Pigment

      3:17
    • 8. Painting Step 3 Krylon Gold Paint Pen

      6:25
    • 9. RESIN 101

      7:05
    • 10. Mixing Art Resin

      2:55
    • 11. Pouring Your Art Resin

      7:21
    • 12. Removing the Tape

      5:15
    • 13. Fluid Ink Aquabord Project

      1:11

About This Class

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Alcohol Ink Fluid Art Diptych Abstract | 3 Types of Gold Paints | Sealed with Resin 

UPDATE: 7/21/19 I've just added a follow up course with the Claybord that you can watch here or use this link: https://skl.sh/2jOMO59

This course is made for resin beginners - we will cover Resin 101. You will be able to create some very easy yet beautiful original Diptych paintings using Aquabord mounted on a 2" wooden cradle using my 3 favorite types of Gold pigments in this matching pair.

You will learn to complete the painting, and sealing it in a coat of glorious diamond clear finish of resin. Students will learn in detail all the tips and trick to creating a flawless finish of resin without dimples, dents, and dust.

Looking for the supplies, I've made it easy with listing them all here in my Amazon Shop.

This is a Beginner RESIN course for those of you that want to have fun, be creative, and get the basics on how to create some simple fluid art pieces sealed with Resin. 

So if you are ready to gain some confidence with Resin and Alcohol inks let's jump in!

Would love to have you join our Kellie Chasse Fine Art Exclusive Student Group  on facebook. You can post your work or ask questions, plus you can chat with other students. 

WHAT YOU WILL DISCOVER IN THIS COURSE:

  • RESIN 101 Preparations  - Tips and Tricks for a great pour
  • Mixing Your Art Resin - You of course can use different brands
  • Pouring Your Art Resin
  • Finishing your edges and creating a uniformed look.
  • Learn what supplies you will need to a fluid art piece using alcohol inks - Attached is a PDF under the Class Project with all the supplies.
  • Learn to create soft flowing movement in your fluid pieces using Alcohol Inks and  3 different types of golds. 

Have Left over Resin - here are a few More Classes available on Skillshare:

Check out my newest course: Alcohol Ink Wine Glasses/Coffee cups

Don't forget to try the follow up Claybord Course!

Fashionable Resin Jewelry for Beginners - Create a Pendant and Earring set

Alcohol Ink and Resin Jewelry Skinny Silicone Molds

Step by Step Guide to Painting Resin Art - ZEN DISK PROJECT - Acrylic, Alcohol Ink & Mixed Media

If you like these classes, please leave a review that will help this class reach more students

Kellie Chasse Fine Art

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Disclaimer: Safety Note - When using paints and chemicals please adhere to any and all manufacturer safety guidelines with these products. If you have specific safety questions or concerns please contact the product's manufacturer. 

MSDS:

Art Resin

Pinata Inks

Ranger Inks

VOC Vapor Mask

Transcripts

1. Fluid Art Introduction: Hi there. I'm Kellie Chassis. I am a full time artist and online instructor. I have currently over 32 online courses available, and I teach Watercolor Alcohol Inc resin and jewelry. And in today's class, I'm going to show you how to create this beautiful A dip tick sat to Using Alcohol Inc. And then we're gonna finish it off with resin. We're gonna create a very easy at beautiful original painting using Aqua Board mounted on a two inch cradle board, and we'll be using three different types of cool pigments in this matching pair. This is a course for beginners, and it will give me the skills of materials to develop your unique fluid art pieces using alcohol inks. And we'll cover the three different types of gold paints that are my favorite to use with this medium. What will you discover in this course? Will learn to create soft flowing movement and your fluid pieces using alcohol. Thanks with three different types of gold. We will talk about resin wanna one preparations, tips and tricks for a great pour the supplies that you'll need to complete the fluid art piece using alcohol inks and all attached a Pdf under the class project. With all of supplies for you, you will learn to complete the painting, sealing it in a coat of glorious diamond. Clear finish of resin without those dimples, dense and dust, You're ready to jump him. Let's get started. 2. Pinata Gold Demo: I thought it would do is practice a little bit with our gold's before we actually do are painting. So we're gonna talk a little bit about the pinata alcohol in cold. And we're also gonna talk about the powdered pigment bowled by jacquard as well as the trial on paint pen. So for beginners, this is the pinata gold. This comes in the larger four ounce bottles, and it also comes in a smaller 0.5 ounces. You can get these and get smaller bottles and fill them up. It works wonderful. So if you are just starting out, the small bottle of gold works. Great. If you are absolutely in love with this, I highly recommend that you go for the investment for the larger bottle. It will go a long way for you. They both have a little ball bearing in them. They are a mix. It'd so you do need to shake the gold to make sure that you get that mix a tive really mixed up. And here is the powdered pigment that we're gonna talk about as well. Powder payment. It's a little bit lighter, and it's a little bit different type of gold in the pinata gold. And then this is the Kremlin paint pen that we're gonna cover as well. That's when you have to shake most. These are mixed over there fairly thick, so you need to shake them. And this is very similar to the Pinata Alcohol Inc. With the exception, this is in a paint pen, so it gives you a little bit more control. So we're gonna talk about these three, and we're going to see how they interact with the inks a little bit before we do a project . So to start out the pinata Alcohol Inc is, um, like I said, a mix a tip. We're gonna be using this on some U PO paper, and I just want to show you here. You can see when I first started out that was not shaken very well, so I have a little bit of that clear fluid in there. That's why it's a really important that you shake this up, make sure it's mixed really well because you don't want that fluid to leak out without being mixed with your gold or else you'll end up with a sticky mess and it will sit at the bottom with some sediment, so make sure you give that a good full minute shake before you actually use it. You can see on the you put paper you bought. Paper is a smooth, shiny surface, so this ain't really glides along the surface. It works a little bit different than what alcohol inks will work because it's a mix. Activites got a little bit thicker pigment to it. And if I take my brush and just move that along, you can see where really blends out. Doesn't really stay in the paper too much. That's very light. So let's show you what it looks like with the alcohol ings. Let's put the alcohol ink on top of it and see what this is going to dio when it tilted just a little bit. Now the this is the Sapphire Blue, which is a very strong pigment, is not a lot of alcohol in this one. It's more pigment based, and you will see what happens is that mix A tive gets picked up by the Alcohol Inc and then rises to the surface and down here on the bottom, where it really spread that out. It just basically catches along the edge. So two different looks by having it solid versus having it really spread out. Now let's see what this does if we put the inks down first, and now we add the pinata gold on top of it being a little bit of movement here. First, he doesn't move a whole lot. Put a couple drops on there. Look at that. You can see that it tends to mix a little bit more and then separates yet again. But you get a beautiful look on the top of your banks again. It rises rate to the surface. I want to close up here for you, so you really can see the difference. So this is on putting the ink first and 2nd 1 We put the gold on top of the ink, so there is a little bit of a difference. There obviously used a little bit more gold on that second pieces well, but it really will spread out and cover your entire area. That's wet. Where is that 1st 1? Because we had basically move that ink with our brushed the gold. It just accumulated on the edges for that one. So let's add a little bit of the Yatta cleanup solution that you can also use The Clairol extended for this. But I am out someone to use the cleanup solution, which is basically usedto playing alcohol inks from surfaces. But it also will blend and move the thinks it reactivates them the extenders a little bit different where you mix that it will keep your area shiny, make it more transparent. Ah, the extender will not change usually the color and extends the drying time or the work time . So I have used both um and I find them quite similar. I don't see a whole lot of difference on that. Actually sent a note to Jakarta. I'm waiting to hear back from them. What? The big difference is that I do recommend the cleaning solution to be used after alcoholic cleaning your brushes and things like that. So I'm not sure exactly what the difference is. As far as technically. So hopefully I'll have an answer for you on that. And I can add that to our information once I get it. So you can see here that really softens it. It's still lightens the alcohol Inc so that sapphire blue is a lot softer now and it does move those move that gold. But it still wants to settle on top of the inks. You will notice it's still moving. My solution is keeping this wet so I still can rock this back and forth, allowing that gold to travel where I want and you'll notice Here is it starts to dry. I now have these little lines here, and you can see where the gold goes all the way towards the edge and just follows those lines of drips so very important once this starts to dry, if you don't have enough time with this back over here, you could see I still have it wet enough so that it doesn't leave those streaks. That's very important to stop at that point. Once you start to see some of those lines because you will leave some streaks in your inks as thes pigments start to dry. And if I continue to rockets back and forth, it could really separate that gold out. So it doesn't just come to my edge, so you can see here. This is now all dry, and you could see the nice shine that this has, and it did travel around the edges because I did a lot of rocking back and forth, and that's where that gold wanted to settle. But it's beautiful, and I have a nice sheen on this. There's a nice shine on this, similar to what the extender would dio, so either one of those will work. Also, alcohol will work as well as if you have Ranger blending solution that will work well similar as well. So now let's try the pattern gold. 3. Jacquard Powered Pigment Demo: we're not going to try using some of the jacquard pigment and this is in powdered form. And I want to just show you here what it looks like. Do a little practice round to a couple of demos. Just you can see how it works before we begin our project. So you can see it is a very light powdery iridescent powder and they have many colors for this. I'm gonna be using just the gold today and you can, you can see Here is I push this down onto our U boat paper. You really cannot see it may take a brush here, just show you the patterns. If I spread this out, it does want to stick slightly to the U PO paper. But it will show a lot better once we put down a darker color of alcohol inks. You can see the shine here when I hold it up to the light and it will wipe right off. So this is something if you put it on alcohol inks. You do want to make sure that you spray it with a varnish to seal it in, unless you're going to resonant. So I'm gonna add a little bit of the alcohol ink on top again. This is a very dark pigment using the same blue that we use before the sapphire blue. I'm gonna pour that on top of the powdered pigment that we just poured, and you can see that the pigment basically covers it. You can't see it, but you can see a little bit of that texture underneath little dots. But the gold is really not seen because this ink is so dark it might show up with a little bit lighter color. But for this, this pigment, it's just too rich for the goal. So this is still wet. And let's add a little bit too it on top and mix that in so you can see it has a little bit more machine. It's lightening up that Incas. I spread it out, and if I turn the sideways, I can very lightly see it. But not a whole lot of just gets a little bit of a shimmer to it. I add a little bit more you can see as the more pigment I add, the more you can see. So we're just blending that in there softly and see how you get that nice iridescent color , a little bit of a shine in here. Let's go a little bit heavier. So the more pigment I add to this more powder pigment, the brighter I can make that again. The underneath is still slightly damp, so it wants to see most. Stick to it, but you can wipe this off. I turned the sideways and tap. It has got a beautiful sheen to it and that excess powder will fall off. So I'm gonna add a little bit of that solution on top again, and we'll see if we can get this to soften and see what happens with that powder pigment. You could see it picks it up and moves it around again. You have that nice little glisten underneath, but it's very soft looking you can barely see. It's you really have to hold it against the light to really see that shimmer of the pigment . I've given it a few minutes, and I've let it dry, and you can still see that beautiful shimmer on the underneath once it's fully dry and very soft. It's not coming off on my hands now because it's covered with that ink. So just a couple different ways that you can use it. That's come up a little bit if I rub it really hard. So you do want to seal it as we have mentioned before, but we're gonna be doing a resin on top. So for this project, this is going to be fine. So let's go ahead and look now at the Crile on paint pen next. 4. Krylon Gold Pen and Tools Demo: I'm not gonna practice using the Crile on paint pen. This is what the pen looks like. It is. Light doesn't hold a whole lot, but it does the trick when you're doing some fine lines. He didn't make sure that you shake it very well. There's a little ball inside, and I had mentioned before that this is probably the closest color gold that I can get with paint pen that is similar to the pinata. Alcohol inks. It's very shiny is gonna really nice gloss to it. So as you can see it, if you've used a paint stick before paint pen, you do need to push it down to get the the paint rolling. And once you get going, this is on you po paper and you can see to get a little skipping here and there. You can do the wide side, or you can do the more narrow side. And then, if you really want to do a good amount, you want to push down and then dragged that across, says I keep continue to push and get nice. Little puddles in here also makes great thoughts. If you like to do some dots on your work, and then I just spread that out and that fills it in. So you get a lot more paint out that way, but you could do a nice solid portion of your painting if you want, so I'm gonna go ahead. And while it's still a little bit wet, we're gonna practice using the alcoholic on top of this to see what it's going to dio So you could see the beautiful shine that it has a way. Tip it sideways, and that last one does have quite a bit of ink in. There were quite a bit of paint, so since we're been using the Sapphire Blue, let's continues. That way we can see what it looks like with all of them. I want to go sideways with this just so you can see how it works. I don't have quite a bit enough there. There we go, so you can see again in that they similar to the paint where it's got a lot of fluid on there, still wasn't dry. It lifts and separates and wants to again rise to the surface, similar to what the alcohol inks did. You could see how it's running down here. Want to drip? Let's go ahead and adds more of that solution on top and see if we can get this to move can . It's the cleanup solution that I'm using. We're gonna get this rocking and rolling. Now. I'll get that and you can see those lines. Those original lines are still there underneath, so I didn't want to lift all of that. Basically looked at just that loose paint that's on the top. So a lot of that's coming from that last one that we did. You can see it really moving here on the right hand side, we get a very similar look to that 1st 1 We'll see what it looks like when it's dry hair, and I think I'm gonna do is take a brush. And I'm just going to show you that you can really work those underneath lines a little bit and scrub um, and see if we can loosen up some of that ink underneath for some of the paint I keep saying Inc Sorry, I'm blowing on it here. Now you can see that's moving a little bit and again, it really wants to clump together and go to the surface here. You could see the underlying, um, paint that we were originally put in there. So look, I take a brush here, and if I drag this back and forth rooms getting a different color here, look at that again. I took quite wet so I can move that around, continue to move it and see what happens here. Sens. Do this little section here is Well, if I scrub that out, if I can remove that line underneath still very pretty, this would be more expensive to do than using the pinata alcohol inks because the paint pins are a little bit more expensive. You have a lot less in there than you do with those big four ounce bottles of alcohol, Inc. So here it is dry. You can see it's better. Beautiful sheen to it still, and it mixed a lot in there. And this is compared to the 1st 1 that we did with the pinata. Gold. Obviously, I blended some of those colors. Almost looks like a green is a yellow tint to the gold makes that blue turn green. And then this was the paint pen just by itself. And this was one of the first ones I did. Using the blending solution, you could still see that you could see those colors underneath. And then this is just the regular ah, dried alcohol ink. So you could say it's a lot darker on the left hand side and later on the right, cause we use that cleanup solution toe. Blend it out. And this is another way that you can use those ink pens or those paint pens. If you want to do little doodles, you can do dots circles. Use it as a regular marker just following outlines. Really fun to work with, and you can see how it gives you complete control with the gold this way again, you conceal the iridescent underneath. There. It looks gorgeous. You could make some lines where you can have fun and just play with your doodles. Have you taken any? Is entangle courses your point of lots of ideas on different shapes and designs that you can dio and you really could go wild with? This gives you a little bit of an idea of what you can do with a paint pen. It's another fun thing to do with your alcohol inks is curried lots of different shapes, and I love to use these little stylists to create some docks. Now these could be used with clay with pottery, painting rocks, lots of different things that that you can use these four. I just have a couple one couple of here. I'm going to show you some smaller sizes, and these will make little tiny dots that you can work with the alcohol inks that you're not dealing with a brush rating in you. Juha CTA Refill your paints Quite often, you could see as I got this on to some dry alcohol, and it's still doing a little bit of a separation with those pigments. This will move out paint if you're using alcohol ink on Alcohol Inc and not the mixer tive , so you may want to try just to see the difference. What it's going to do with using the mix it ivar versus using regular alcohol together because it won't give you this more defined circle. So they have lots of different types of these stylised. They have some with wooden handles. Plastic handles. Um, they have all different sizes for the diameters. A coming millimeters. I think from, like 0.8 millimeters up to 18 millimeters. So you can really have fun with a bunch of different sizes with these, and they just make for a really fun little tool to use. You do have to have some patients, so creating dots and the slower process and let me just show you a really quick close up here. So there you have it. So we're goingto get ready to begin our project coming up next, and we will be using all three of these in our projects and work with them together. 5. Taping your Aquabord to prevent help prevent leaks: before we begin our project, let's talk a little bit about our aqua board. Now, this is a textured place surface, so it is porous. We do want to make sure that we taped the edges of this really well because we have a wooden cradle board attached to this piece and we don't want the inks to stain the wood, and we don't want them to go over the edge. So I actually tape it up before I begin my project because I'm not using you po paper and attaching it to the board. The nice thing about these Arkle boards is that you could actually paint directly on them. Now we have talked about it being porous. Um, does get air trapped in there. But if you're using the alcohol, alcohol tends to dissipate that, but it is a rougher surface than what you po paper would be. They do have something called clay board, which is very similar to this. So instead of a rough surface, porous surface clay board is smooth, so that's very similar to the U PO paper. But there's no prep work with that one, so I have actually got in contact with and stand there, sending me some samples of some clay board, and I want to be trying that out. And I'll probably add that as an extra bonus video once that comes in, to look forward to to getting that so you can see her where it's basically glued onto the two inch wooden cradle board. And they do have different sizes of cradle board that you can get with the wood. I happen to like the two inches. They look really pretty when you have them all finished in there. Hang up. They don't need any type of special framing or anything. You can hang them up right as is so that is a nice big big plus. Now I use the blue painter's tape. You can also use the frog tape. Just make sure that's a really good quality tape because you don't want any of that to seep in there. On another thing, make sure that you're really pushing that down, making sure that tape is really connected with your wood, and I like tape all around the edges. I do like to leave that little bit of a lip here for my resin, and we're actually gonna seal that with a little bit of gold around the edge using our paint Pent later. So you can see here. I'm rubbing that in, pushing it down, making sure that it's really attached on there. And then I put a second layer and we're going to go around here about 1/4 inch below that first layer tape. Then we're gonna tuck this in underneath again, pushing that down, making tree of really good connection with that. And then I'm going to just pinch the corners here, making a nice square. And the reason I like to do this is I'm covering that would area protecting it from drips from the resin. And now I'm I'd like to make things easy, so I don't like toe have these raised up. So you'll see when we get to the process of resin. Why I'm doing it this way. And the reason comes off a really easy. So make sure you tape the underneath and you don't have to worry about drips. So those two boards are ready to go. And now that we have those all taped up, we can go ahead and begin our painting 6. Painting Step 1 Pinata Gold: so welcome to the Alcohol Inc resin class. In this course, we're going to learn a little bit about the jacquard gold to start. So I'm going to get my basic colors in here that I want to use with blending solution. Very key with this because you're Aqua Board is a fairly porous type of board. And I do like to use this because, honestly, I don't like to go through the whole process of gluing my you po paper down onto a wooden cradle board. So I don't mind doing this. I don't have to prime it or do anything to it. And for this type of painting, this works wonderful. You just need to know that you have to work quickly and use lots of blending solution to keep those inks moving. You don't want them to absorb into that poor Issaquah board, so you will notice here I've dropped a couple little dots of the sapphire blue and that really has stained that area. But I'm okay with that. My plan is to use the pinata gold on top of it. So it's going to cover any areas that I'm unhappy with. But you know, these dots and circles. Sometimes many artists like that. Look. So you know, with any of my courses it's all about you. It's not about me. I'm showing you how to do it and how I like it. So take it from there and experiment so you can see that I'm putting blending solution down on here, and this really does not want to move out. But I do want to show you that if you try to take a brush to this, it does not work as well. This is more of an abstract, very flowy type of painting that you'll be doing on this. A little bit of more of the yellow onto the side. We're gonna do some line work at the end as well. So a lot of these little lines, we're gonna cover up some of those little separations when we add the other types of golds to this so you can mix a little bit here. You could see where the green is mixing with that blues and a lot of blending solution in there. So it is possible to slightly mixed if you're working fast enough. And if the banks days wet, we're getting a lovely shade of green using that yellow and that blue together. So let them mix, and that will make your third color on a couple more dots. Here's want you to see what this is going to dio. See that looks pretty with the dots there, too, watching him spread and they're not moving a lot. As we said, this is a porous surface, so let's go ahead and jot the gold on top of it and see what it's going to do here. Your gold will tend to separate on top of another color, and then if you continue to add color on top of that, what happens is that gold rises back to the surface. So watch me put a yellow dot in here. You don't see the yellow. That gold kind of comes right up above, but you could see that nice ring that it makes around there. If I drop in blue blues a little bit more dense, who will tend to make just a very small dots, and sometimes that will close rate up. So be careful when you're using your goals. Just keep in mind gold. This particular pinata goal, which is the first gold we're gonna talk about is very heavy. It's more of a mix itiveness, so it's really fun to work with. Oh, and it does some really cool things you'll watch here. It's not moving a whole lot. But once I had a little bit more blending solution to this and I'm going to tip it, you're going to see what that's going to create for you. Let's go ahead and add that blending solution on top. And now we're going to tip it and see how that it does is wonderfully just separates and flows and creates this this gorgeous shimmer in your painting have a little bit more blending solution. See if we can get this to move a little bit more on this side here. Just kind of glides right on top. You can see that shimmer underneath. So we're going to start our 2nd 1 and I'm going to tell you that when you're using two these panels, we call it a dip tick. We're not gonna hinge these together, but they're gonna flow. Very nice is to these make great side by side paintings or one up above the other. So once again, we're gonna do the blending solution when I just want a little bit quicker. Just so you couldn't see how this works. A little bit more blending solution. You could see that yellow is really flowing. Let's go ahead and add the blue really quickly. Well, it's still nice and wet, and you could see I don't have quite as much of the dots this time. They're moving all as one here. Then they will add the gold right on top of that. Let's see how much we movement we can get with that without adding the extra blending solution. So those two colors of blue and the yellow is very, very nicely blending over here. The gold's not moving a lot, so we're gonna add a little bit more that lending solution, and you can see we get that beautiful gold flow, and it's going to separate a little bit here and there, which creates some wonderful textures in your paintings, a little bit more yellow and some more blue. So blend that a little bit more. This doesn't have to look obviously just like the other side, but I'm just trying to keep that same image of the shape so that they go nicely together. Don't bring that gold backed down against your is really clumped in that one section. So see if we can get that to move a little bit more here, What'll it right into the corner. And you could take your finger and move it and see how when I wipes the gold right off of the top and I could create some pretty images right down here, we take that blend that a little bit more here, even dragged out across them to the other side. Compete with your fingers, you paint with a brush, and then I don't like the looks of this right here. So we're gonna add a little bit more blending solution on this parts where we used our brush and give it another little squirt of some more of that blue. There we go. That's blending in nicely. Now it's reactivated some of that goals. I'm just getting that to move a little bit more here. And I'm just rocking this back and forth, you know, wiped it right off almost anything. I want to add a little bit more blue on this side. To those, look a little bit closer again, adding that blending solution to get it to flow and tipping it. I don't want to lose all of that yellow in the middle, so I'm just being very careful not to go over too far. You can get this to get where you want to get a lot of green down here. Just taking my finger, gonna wipe all that off. And they could see where it left that line here because it re wet that area. So I'm gonna add a little bit more gold to that nous to that. Smooth that out just a little bit more so we can get that with our finger. There we go. So there. So we're going, Teoh, go ahead and let this dry. And then we'll go on to the second type of golden like to use, which is the powdered pigment by Jaccard, and you can see how that's going to work next 7. Painting Step 2 Jacquard Powered Pigment: this time we're gonna use Jack are gold, but this is the powdered pigment, so this is a little bit different than the alcohol inks. This is really unlovely soft touch, So it's not quite as powerful and strong looking as what the alcohol inks are. But I'm gonna show you here they have lots of iridescent color to it. They have all different colors. I have some powder just out here. I'm gonna dip my brush into it now. My alcohol inks are still a little tacky, so this is sticking to it. But we're gonna actually resin on top of this, so this will seal us in there very nicely. Ranger actually has a new brand of alcohol Inc out That's called pearls, and they have an iridescent to them. No, I'm guessing that they're gonna be quite similar to this, but I have not yet tried them. But I've been doing this with the jacquard pattern inks for some time now, and it just gives it a really soft, beautiful shimmer. Once used the resin on top. If using alcohol inks, you still can use this type of powder pigment. If you use the came are varnish to seal it. You could use it both ways, but it looks really pretty underneath the resin. I'm just basically brushing this on anywhere. I want to have a little bit more of that shimmer and you can see how much softer it is. I've got two lines here that I'm just gonna touch up some of that blue with it just a little bit. And if you want to darken it, I'm just layering another layer on top of what I've got there and spreading that out just lightly using my brush. Let's give that a dusting all over the blue here, love that Schumer that it gives. So these have pinks and purples, greens, blues. They've got every color that you can imagine just about in the powder form. Really fun to try a bunch of different colors. You can give it a really beautiful iridescent look. And one other thing you could do with the powder pigment is to actually mix it into your resin. And it gives it a really nice shimmer over your entire painting. So I think that is about all I'm going to use for this piece or our next sex. You can see here. If I pick it up, you can see it. A little bit of a shimmer here on that, gorgeous. And again, it's just a little bit softer. Look, then, what that really vibrant gold gives you. So for our next next type of goal that we're gonna use, we're gonna be using the Crile on paint pen and we're gonna create some texture and some lines in here following some of these little areas that we want to just highlight. It's kind of like the little Zen doodle. So if you've taken my Zen doodle course, this is a great way to try a gold pan doing some doodles, so we'll be covering that coming up next. 8. Painting Step 3 Krylon Gold Paint Pen: So we have tried now the Pinata Alcohol Inc and the powder pigment now going to try the cry lawn paint pen. And these three golds are probably the my most favorite types of goals that you can use with the alcohol inks. There are many other brands out there. I would recommend that you give them a try if you have them, and to see if you're happy with what they produce. This one is very similar as well to that real bright bowl that we first used. It's not a soft is the powder pigments, but it can get it can give you a very right gold lines and see that I'm not making a perfect line here. I want to make it squiggly. You could turn your paint sideways so you have a little bit finer line or your Internet the width so you could make a wider line. But the color is really close to that similar Kenyatta alcoholics that we first used. This will just give you a little bit more control on where you want to have those exact lines, so you can use this on top of the resin as well. It works both ways. I'll show you an example here of one of the Geos that is a class it's coming up for next month. This is the gold pen on it, using it on top of the resins once residents sealed. So this process, you could wait till the very end if you wanted Teoh, or you can do it now. So the great thing about the doodles is that you can just create any little texture or line in here that you want. And if you've seen the Zen Doodle course, she'll see, I've got a few levels and tangle. Little, um, repetitive patterns. I always recommend that you practice on some scrap paper. Or maybe some of the older pieces that you were unhappy with when you were working with your alcohol ings does make for great little doodles. I'm just going to continue going over any evil areas that either I didn't have a full liner , one a little bit thicker. I'm gonna thick in some of these up and think about where I want to go next with this. Now, with the crile on paint pen, you just want to make sure if it stops working or flowing in that you just push that little nib and you can just get the inks flowing against a Pimm's. He'll get a little stuck in there. There's a little ball inside of this pen to make sure that you shake it really well. Similar to the pinata alcoholics. There's a little ball bearing in there as well, so make sure that you've shaken those really well and that you've got that really mixed up before you begin. What a bit of ink in here have used this one a number of times now, and there's still plenty left. So another option for you. The panels have a little bit of a lip because this is a like a board that's attached to the wooden board, and you can obviously resin over this. You could actually tape up to that edge if you want, but I like to have a little bit of that border showing. So once I finish following up the little patterns here, I'm going to actually take my pen and finish the edges up as well. With the school pen, we'll add just a little double line here. Just give a little bit of green in the middle and again if I want to do a little bit more. Once I was done with a resident, I could always add to this. So this is Ah, nice little time to sit and ponder if you really want toe ADM. Or or if you want away, and you can always do it at the end and another option. They have many other colors for the paint pans. I like to use a posca pen as well. That one. You can use the little white pen if you want, and you can see that again here on the resin geo that I did. And this one will also work before or after. So I think that is it for the gold pan. We've got three different types of golden here, which looked beautiful. I'm excited to put the resin coat on there, but first, let's go ahead and look at these edges. So, as you can see, I did the tape down below, and I'm going to just cover this one up with the pan, and I do want to show you hear this spends a little bit harder to work with for doing the edges. You see a lot of skipping on here. And I find that because the pinata gold is so similar in color to this, I'm gonna show you both here. So if you want to do it with a pen, you have the patience to do that. Feel free to do it with a pen. It gives you a little bit more control. I've been working with the inks for quite a while now, and I feel pretty comfortable trying this with my bottled. Dinkins. Well, so I'm going to switch over here with the bottle and show you the difference. I also want to mention because we're using inks. Things can tend to go over the side. You may have noticed a little bit of Marine on the side of my first panel so you can use the gold to cover that up a swell. You don't see the green once I put the ink on top of it. So here is the Pinata Alcohol Inc in the bottle. If you just very lightly squeeze that it wants to cover that edge. So it's really pretty easy to cover your edges with that, and it's a lot faster than using the pen so there's a little tip for you. So now I'm just deciding which way I want to go with this again. It doesn't have to be decided at this moment in time, because once we get thes, resin will take a look at him and see which way that you'll want to hang your finish piece . So coming up next, we're going to start the resin. 9. RESIN 101: so the first thing we want to talk about is having a good resin experience or a successful resin poor. You want to follow some very basic steps. Course the 1st 1 you want. Make sure that you're using proper safety equipment. You want to remove any pets or Children or anybody that does not have safety year on from the room. Make sure that you have covered all your exposed skin. Make sure you cover or tie back your hair. You want to turn off any fans while you're pouring, and this is to help prevent dust particles getting airborne. The first thing I want talk about is proper safety year Now there has been more more talk about resident about alcohol inks, and some say it saves. Some say it's not. Some people have developed issues with it, so when Allen's fails, take proper safety precautions. So I recommend that you use nitro gloves when you're handling any kind of resin or alcohol inks, those will protect your hands. Use a full face mask, certified organic paper mask and the reason why I say full face mask rather than just your breathing. You do want to protect your eyes as well, because those those type of chemicals can go in through your eyes, through your nose and through your mouth. You want to make sure number two that your area is dust free and clean. And when I say dust, make sure you are dusting in advance to pour your resin, and that doesn't mean like your 15 minutes beforehand. You don't want to stir up anything that's already in your house, so make sure that you dust ahead of time and then maybe do a spritz of some water just to keep that dust down anywhere near your area that you'll be pouring your resident. So Step three is making sure that your area is at a constant dry temperature. And when I say constant, you don't want to put it next to a window because the sun comes in and that could change, which you can change your temperature in your room, which can cause you to have the little dimples in your resin. You want to make sure that it's warm in your home. 70 degrees is a great temperature for art resin. They recommend that and keeping a constant so you don't want an area that's going to maybe being the garage is going to drop down and temperature at night 20 degrees, because that will cause dimpling or and bubbles and some other bad things to happen. So consistent. 70 degree warm dry. If you have a lot of humidity in your area, recommend maybe doing a DIY home or something like that. You want that constant temperature, at least for the 1st 24 hours or resinous curing. So my favorite art risen to use is the brand are present, and you can try obviously some different types of resin. Just make sure that you're reading your resin directions for your brand, and you want to make sure that you're mixing it properly, Making sure that you're cup does not have any water in it. Any of your brushes or your tools or anything doesn't have water. And because water is very bad for mixing resin, it can cause it not just not Teoh harden correctly, so you're using usually a two part mixture of epoxy and resin or hardener and resin. And for art resin, it's equal parts. So, like I said, other brands have different amounts that you mix some hardened faster than others. So really read those directions and making sure that your resin is going to work for this. Project Number five. Make sure you're using enough resin that's going to fully cover your art piece. Now art resin does have a calculator online so you can look at that are present calculator , and it will tell you how much resin that you'll need in depending on you know if you have a six by six piece. If you have an eight by 10 you know, whatever that the mansions are, you gonna use different amounts of resin to complete your project. It's best if you warm your resin to room temperature before using it. That will help room lee some of those air bubbles. You can also let the art residence it for a little bit, and some of those it's gonna release agent in there so the bubbles will automatically release. Some residents have more bubbles than others. Some are a little bit more trickier to get rid of the air bubbles. If you've mixed very fast, more of a whipping motion will cause you to have more bubbles of you. Stir slowly that will help And then I like to use a torch to remove my air bubbles. You can use lighters, things like that, but really, for the amount of heat that you need to produce a torch, even like a crumble, a torture plumber's torch, some small ones. It doesn't have to be one of those big torches. You can use a small one that will help get the bubbles out of there. Another tip that I like to use is using a little spritz up alcohol, and that will help release the air bubbles as well. So usually have a little bit of time. Once you've put your resin down, you've made sure that the bubbles have been removed. Sometimes they will come to the surface little afterward. So with the 1st 15 minutes or so, you can use that towards to remove the air bubble. For small bubbles, you can pop them with toothpicks, things like that. After that, 15 minutes or so, your resume will start to cure if using art resident, especially if you have a warm area. And if you've used a lot of torching, torch tortures will actually thin that resin out, so it will actually cure faster when you put heat towards resin. If you have torched the law and then you go back in and try to torch it again, you can actually cause dimples, so I always recommend, you know, before you cover it, make sure you've really given it a good, thorough look. Make sure you cover it with plastic that you can see through. That helps because you can see if any bubbles are coming up right after used. You cover it cause sometimes there's things inside of your plastic containers that can get on it, so make sure you spritz your container out with alcohol. Wipe it down and use that before you cover it, which then leads us to number six covering your resin piece. So covering your resin piece, leaving it alone once you cover it and let it dry for at least 24 hours. Because if you try to go back into it once it's starting to cure and try to remove those bubbles, you're just gonna cause a mess. It's just going to dent, and it will create even more problems. That is my tips on having your best of resin. Pour Another thing is you know what? If you're brand new to resin, it's like anything else. You may have to practice a few times to get it right and even the best of us. It doesn't always work perfectly. So, as William Hickerson said, if at first you don't succeed, try, try again. So don't let resin scary a jump in Give it a go, and if you have any questions, I am here for you. 10. Mixing Art Resin: now that your area has been prepped and you've done all of those things that we talked about, let's begin mixing our art resin. Now I have a desk here that I don't want to get damaged. So what I've done is I've had some plexiglass cut, and I just place it right on top of my death. So from working on area, I don't want to get ruined. This works great, but these little rubber stoppers underneath and it won't move on you, then what I like to use are really heavy duty black trash bags, and the resin will lift right off of this once it's dry. So put that on top of your desk area over your plastic plastic shower curtains. Clear ones work very well as well. You can usually pull the resin off of those. So as I had said we're gonna use, are my favorite brand, which is art resin. It has UV protection to help protect those beautiful alcohol inks that we have put down on these aqua boards now, and this is a two part resin. Now, if you have taken some of my other resin classes, you might be comfortable with how to mix resin. You can go ahead and skip this step. If you're new to resin, it's very basic. We have the resin ER resident. We have the hardener, some Popsicle sticks, some hand sanitizer, some plastic cups and a little mini blowtorch. This is just a basic little plumber's torch. You can use a crumble a torch. You don't need to have the gigantic propane torch, especially for these small projects puting bigger projects. That's a different story, so we want three separate cups. I have my equal parts of resident hardener, and I'm just going to go ahead and pour those into my third cup. This way, we make sure that we get a good mixture. These cups are four ounce cups, so I have two ounces of resin and two ounces of hardener, so that's going to make a total of four ounces for both of these boards. So I'll put about two ounces of resin on each board, and they have a wonderful calculator on our resin dot com that I will attach for you down below. So when you begin your prod project, if you have a different size board, you can fill in the wits and the length, and it will give you a total amount of resident you'll need for your project. So once we have this port in together, this is when this chemical reaction starts to take place and you want to make sure you mix is nice and slowly for at least 3 to 4 minutes, the larger the badge. I always err on the side of caution and makes a little bit longer. Make sure that you're scraping the bottom of your cup. Make sure it's a flat cup. Make sure you get those edges and really mix that in there. Don't worry at this point about bubbles, because some of that will dissipate as we let this set for a while and we're going Teoh, let this sit for a few minutes, and then we're gonna go ahead and begin our poor 11. Pouring Your Art Resin: Now we have stirred our resin for good. Four minutes. Let's begin our poor. But before we begin our poor, we do want to make sure that our surface is completely level. So grab yourself something to level your area or level your pieces of artwork before you pour to make sure that it's not going to run off of one side or the other. I like to have just some hand sanitizer here with me and wash my hands really quick before actually do my poor. Just in case I've got any residual either resin or hardener on my gloves. I don't want to get any of that accidentally on my paintings, so I'm just gonna really quickly wipe those off and straighten my little gloves out. I am going to go ahead and dump half of it on one and then half on the other. They could see there's still quite a bit of bubbles in here, but I wanted to show you how I get rid of them. If you let this sit here for a little bit longer, it will dissipate some more. But I'm gonna try to do this in real time for you. So you can actually see how quick it is. Tech really? Do a piece up with resin. These air six by six. So I'm gonna try to do is even amounts as possible on each side making sure you get all of the extra resident there. And I'm gonna take my Popsicle stick. I'm just going to slightly move that out to the edges. I don't want to lose a lot of my resin over the side, so I want to be careful as I'm doing this. You do want to get rid of to the edge, and I'm trying to make this is even as possible, moving on to the 2nd 1 doing the same thing. They do offer special tools for resin, have the little grooves in them to help spread them out. But I find for these small pieces, using just a craft stick works just fine. So once I get that pretty much on all four sides here, I'm now going to just take that Popsicle stick running along the edge here. And then I am gonna do that t shape on my resin pieces. So I'm gonna go down and I'm going to go a crossed and that just helps spread it a little bit more even. And that's basically what one of those trials will dio Young getting the edge there. Phil Extra. Take that Popsicle stick moving over. And now I'm just going to take what I have left in the bottom of that cup and just cover the edges here, using my finger again, making sure that I get those sides really wells. I did do the edges with the gold, so I do want to seal those. Some people choose to cover that whole edge up, but I like toe have that extra added protection, as Thekla board is usually glued onto. That wouldn't board, so it doesn't hurt to actually resin those sides to it as well. And I measured out the perfect amount of resins. I don't really have any left over a lot of times. If I do, you have any leftover that's I. Can you have a little cynical molds for jewelry or something like that? And I do have a class on that, so it's great for leftover projects. When you have a little bit now, we'll go ahead and remove our gloves doing inside outs that you don't get resin on your hands and then I do remove my gloves because I don't like to torch with my gloves on. I don't want a chance it melting. We're gonna just spritz this with some alcohol and this really gets rid of a lot of the air bubbles. You need to do this or again right away. And before you torch a lot of my air bubbles are automatically gone, but using just that little spritz of alcohol. So wait 2 to 3 minutes to the alcohol has dissipated. And that's the 91% isopropyl alcohol that I used in that. And then once that is dry, then we can go ahead and take the torch to it. Be very careful, because if you torch it too soon, that alcohol doesn't have a chance to evaporate, and you will have flames. So be super careful that if you're nervous about it happening, you could always do this on a surface that is fire resistant. So I'm now gonna torch and I'm just going to show you here How long I actually torch. I do hold us a little bit distance, and I'm constantly moving my torch I don't want it to sit in one area to Long's. It can actually burned the resin. It can give you little dimples in the resin. So you want to really make sure that you're moving that back and forth And if you come to the side, you can really see if you have your bubble still. And I do this a couple of times, usually. So I'm gonna do you smoke both of these because they're small project here. I'm gonna switch here in a second. We're gonna go to the side so you can see it a little bit better. And you will notice I did not seal these first because I'm using the Kenyatta alcohol inks and it works wonders with the art resident resin does not reactivate him. And art resin has the UBC lit rate in there. So just remember, if you using different brands of inks or resin to give yourself a little test strip before you actually do your full project so you can see the sides the edge. I'm not even seeing any bubbles popping. Now think we have just about all of them, have a nice clear finish here, so I've done this for maybe a little over a minute, would to these small pieces six by six. I'm going to turn this off now and then I'm actually going to look at it from the side. And you want to make sure you have a really good lighting when you're doing this before you actually cover it. And you don't want to cover this almost as soon as you're done. So once you've done that towards, don't give it a chance to get something collected in here. Do a little once over Chad. Come to the side and you can really see. It's a nice, smooth finish. There's nothing in there. The torch helps burn any dust particles office well as thinning it out because it heats it up and it just does a beautiful job. So I'm going to cover that. I've already taken my container and wash that out with alcohol before I began, and I'm going to cover that and be patient. Wait at least 24 hours and then we'll take a look at the reveal 12. Removing the Tape: so this has been drying out for about 24 hours. It's very important that you try to take your tape off within the 18 to 24 hour period. It really helps you to be able to remove the tape a lot easier because the residents is still soft and you can see here it's hard enough so that I'm not gonna get anything in my resin on the top. But it's soft enough where I can pull this tape off fairly easy, and you can see it by putting it on the plastic trash bag. Here. This just lifts right up, and you really don't have any drips, so to speak on the underneath, even though I fully taped the underneath of this is well, so let's go ahead and pull this off. This is probably the most tedious part, and if you catch this at the right time, it could be a lot easier. Make sure that the resin on the top is Q awards that you don't get your little thumbprints on the top. So you know it's one of those things pinning on how warm your climate is. Your house, the cure time. It can and be different for you, so it's really hard to put your finger on when it is the right time. So I have to just express that that you shouldn't be able to get any tackiness on the top. But I residents still soft enough on the bottom piece here, where this is really easy to remove. Zehava. Ben's real easy, so that's that's the key. Otherwise, just be really careful. If you're unsure about the top, don't put it down. Don't put your hands on it and, ah, you know that we will make sure they don't get any some prints on their or anything denting your resin on the top of its Not quite hard enough, So I'm going to continue pulling off the tape. You can see where the edges are really clean. It's very important that you get that tape on their really well so that you don't get any seepage underneath that. Remember, you know, this is not always perfect. It doesn't always work, even though you try to keep these edges raw, but it's really not an issue. If you do get any any alcohol Inc that seeped into that would it's it's there you're not going to get it out. You can sand, but usually that absorbs into that raw wood. So even if you sand it, you're not gonna get that top layer. Usually it's gonna see way down in, and you let a denting your would. So don't try to sand that out afterward. If you've got resin on there, I mean, if you get the Alcohol Inc in there, your best bet is to stain it something darker or do a paint job on there. You could do acrylic paints. Um, you could do dark stains, anything that's gonna cover up that edge. But that's the key. Do not try to san it, because I've tried that in the past, and all it does is just dent my wood, and I cannot get it down far enough so that that you know, if it's a really light color, you might be able to do it. But this dark green or dark blue is going to stain that would, and you're better off just going ahead and painting it. So we're gonna take off the rest of this here, and I've sped this up for you. I've also wanted to mention You can use aluminum tape if you want to build more of a dam so that you can have a little bit of, ah, top edge to your resin if you want to build that up on top. But I will warn you that the aluminum tape is sometimes difficult to get off. If you do use it. It's best to use a heat gun or blow dryer to warm it up, and it does peel off a little easier and the same thing by getting it done or taking off on time. So when it's till a little soft, otherwise, once that's really hard and cured that resin and tape really stick together. So here we have the finished piece. It's, um, a beautiful shine. I don't see any blemishes on this one whose I'm super happy about. And again, if you follow all of those directions, you can usually get a really good coat on here. Sometimes you have to sand it down and do a second coat. If you find that you have some blemishes in there and I have to do is use a very light sandpaper too lightly. Scuff this up. It does become more cloudy. But once you pour the resident or a second coat on top, that will go crystal clear again for you Also put a link for you where a redid a tile that I had to do a light sanding on and pour second coat of resins. I'll put that link for you down below. If you want to take a look at that starts at section 16 minutes and 12 seconds. I believe eso you don't want to watch the whole thing. You could just watch that portion of it. I took an orbital sander to it does it really quick. But you don't need an orbital sander. You can just do a very light, very fine grit sandpaper to do it. And, you know, with the resin, it takes some practice. So don't be frustrated, you know, takes a little bit of practice. You're gonna have to do this a couple of times. It's been telling my other students it's like riding a bike where you have toe. Once you've learned how to do it, you'll have it down. But it does take a few times. You're gonna fall down a few times when you're starting this, but We're going to try to take all of the the normal basic things that people usually have problems with, and hopefully we've covered all of those for you in this course. 13. Fluid Ink Aquabord Project: So congratulations on completing the course. I am so happy that you took the time to join me in this class today. And I am so excited to see what your projects look like. So if you have time, I would love for you to get those alcohol inks out. And you can do this really quickly. Do unicycle practice session. Go ahead and post it below because we would absolutely love to see it. If you were loving alcohol inks, go ahead and check out the Zen Doodle class. The moonscape class. Further, We have alcohol inks with resin on this end this class. So look forward to seeing you in a new course soon. And if you have a chance, please don't forget to leave a review. Give a thumbs up that lets other students know that they might be interested in something like this is Well, I would love to hear what you thought of the class. Thanks again for joining me. And also you can tag me on Instagram if you'd like to share that. I do a YouTube Channel video every week and I love to share my students work on there. So thanks again and have a great one. Abi