Aerial Drone Photo Editing in Adobe Lightroom Classic 2021 with Introduction to Lightroom concepts | Stefan Tomic | Skillshare

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Aerial Drone Photo Editing in Adobe Lightroom Classic 2021 with Introduction to Lightroom concepts

teacher avatar Stefan Tomic, Photographer, PhD in Electrical Eng.

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

17 Lessons (2h 27m)
    • 1. Course Overview

      2:05
    • 2. Section 0 Lesson 1 - Introduction

      1:58
    • 3. Section 1 Lesson 1 - File Import and Management in Lightroom

      8:46
    • 4. Section 1 Lession 2 - Basic global Adjustments in Lightroom

      11:00
    • 5. Section 1 Lesson 3 - Tone Curves and other global basic adjustments 1 curve fixing

      12:40
    • 6. Section 1 Lesson 4 - Cropping Filters and Local Adjustments 1

      18:49
    • 7. Section 1 Lesson 5 - Settings transfering and File Exporting in Lightroom

      9:18
    • 8. Section 1 Lesson 6 - How to make HDR and Panorama in LR

      4:50
    • 9. Section 2 Lesson 1 - Top Down Birds Eye View Photography

      5:04
    • 10. Section 2 Lesson 2 - Top down image Edit workflow

      9:11
    • 11. Section 2 Lesson 3 - How to create and use Presets

      5:59
    • 12. Section 3 Lesson 1 - Daytime Aerial Landscapes Introduction

      3:14
    • 13. Section 3 Lesson 2 - Daytime Landscape Full Editing Workflow in LR

      12:50
    • 14. Section 4 Lesson 1 - Sunset and Sunrise Photography

      7:23
    • 15. Section 4 Lesson 2 - Sunset Photo Editing Workflow

      16:43
    • 16. Section 5 - Lesson 1 - Introduction to Night Aerial Photography

      3:53
    • 17. Section 5 Lesson 2 - Night Aerial Photo Editing Workflow

      12:55
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About This Class

Specialization course for editing different types of Aerial images captured by a Drone in Adobe Lightroom Classic 2020.

The first Section provides full introduction to Lightroom, from importing photos, through all important editing tools to exporting. Section is adapted to beginners without prior knowledge, but also, there are many tips and tricks which can be useful to experienced Lightroom users.

Second part of the course provides full editing workflow demonstration and useful information about 4 most common types of drone images: Top Down Birds-Eye views, Daytime Landscapes, Sunset Photos and Night Photos.

Meet Your Teacher

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Stefan Tomic

Photographer, PhD in Electrical Eng.

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Transcripts

1. Course Overview: You have just came back from the trip of your lifetime or you were just flying drone around the neighborhood. You are excited to transfer your photos on the computer and you expect them to look something like this. But in fact, they are looking like this. Hi, I'm Stefan, and I'm here to help you to level up your editing game. I have been commercial and stop photographers since 2014 and have edited tens of thousands of images. My photos can be found everywhere, from book covers through large online campaigns, through social media and advertising. Having invested a lot of time in education, I have put together this course for you to see and learn best practices in editing any kind of drone images. The first part of the course teaches you everything you need to know about Lightroom from import to export. We will learn how to manage files in Lightroom, do all kinds of edits and color corrections, use filters, create HDR is in panoramas, build the news our own presets and much more. The second part of the course provides you the best practices advices and full editing workflows about four most common types of drone images. Top-down bird's eye views, datetime, landscapes, sunset photos, and night photos. All the photos will be available to download so you can follow along. So after completing the course, you will be capable to edit any kind of drone image. This course is suitable for beginners or experienced drone pilots who want to improve their editing workflow. Although this is a drone specialization that techniques learned in this course can be applied to editing landscapes. So join me today and let's start making amazing edits together. See you in class. 2. Section 0 Lesson 1 - Introduction: Hello, welcome to aerial photo editing in Lightroom classic. This is a short course overview to provide most useful information about the course. The course consists of five sections. In the first section, we will give a full introduction to Lightroom Classic. Even if you don't know anything about Lightroom, you will get to know how to make your photos look great and how to use all the possibilities Lightroom can offer. From the second to the fifth section, we will focus on different types of drone images, top-down bird's eye views, daytime landscapes, sunset photos, and night photos. Each of the sections will provide the most useful information about these type of images and full editing workflows for each one of them. Let's see some useful information about the course. All the files which are edited throughout the course will be available for download. So you can follow along with the images provided in the course, or you can use your images and apply the same edits on them. Next, key techniques will be explained multiple times. So don't worry if you cannot get it from the first time, you can always go back or follow along and practice next time we use the same technique. If we are already experienced in Lightroom and you know everything about it, you can skip the first section. Other sections are drawn specific and they can help you in editing your drone images. Practice makes it perfect, so is the best if you can apply the skills developed throughout the course to your images immediately. Just keep practicing, keep editing, and your photos will be looking better and better. So now let's jump into Lightroom and start editing. I can't wait to see you in class, and I'm very happy that we can learn together and improve our photos. See you in class. 3. Section 1 Lesson 1 - File Import and Management in Lightroom: In this lecture, we will see how to import and manage photos in Lightroom and get to know the basic user interface. Lightroom is not only a great photo editor, it is also a powerful file management tool. It will help you to manage and organize thousands of your image and even video files. To get started with the import, we can click on File, import photos and videos. Now we can see the import dialog. On the left side, we can choose our source as our photos are located on the memory card. Lightroom automatically recognize it. The middle area of the screen show us our coping options as well as our images. We can choose between coping as DNG or simply copying the photos. Dng is a native Adobe file format. And in some cases, converting our photos to DNG can help us edit them. Fester. This drone already recorded in DNG format. So coping them as DNG would not make any difference. In general, I would recommend simply copying the photos is they are. This will enable us to keep our raw files while the editing speed will be similar. On the right side of the screen, we can further control our import. We can apply some preprocessing, Cruz our destination, add metadata and do much more. Lightroom enable us to edit our photos based on the preview we built during importing. This means that what we are going to see in Lightroom depends solely on the import settings we choose. Now, default option is the standard import, which is the most commonly used and recommended one. If you want to build import at the full image size, you should use one-to-one import previews. It will take longer time to make, but it will increase the speed of editing workflow as the four sides, import preview is already built. Also, we can quickly zoom in and see our images 100% size, minimal, and embedded in a side car previews will generate small JPEG previews of our images. If you want to see the accurate color representation, it is not recommended to use them if you want to edit your photos immediately or in reasonable amount of time, I recommend you using the standard import option. It represents the best trade-off between speed and performance. As now we are importing only six photos. We can choose to build one-to-one import previews. Second important option is the destination. This will determine where lightroom will copy our images. By default, it is organized by year of taking and the date. For now, I will import our images in the C drive. Another important possibility during import is to add our files into collection. This will help us manage large number of files as we can sort them by our travel destination or our model. So it's pretty easy to find them. Afterwards. I can name this collection area and import our photos into this collection. The next step is to click Import. Wait our files to be loaded. After the files are loaded and previews are built. This is the default grid view that Lightroom use to help us see our photos is divided into three parts. Left panel, help us choose between our collections, see our folders on the file system, and as well help us select between all photos, latest, import, or choose a quick collection. The middle panel will show our photos. The thumbnail size can be simply changed by pressing Control or Command and scrolling with the mouse. Right-hand panel. Let us quickly edit our photo, as well as add keywords, our add different metadata. We will focus on quick developed tool. It let us quickly adjust our image so we can have a better preview in our grid. We can easily increase the exposure so we can have a better idea. What is our picture showing? If your Lightroom doesn't look like this, don't worry. It is a highly adjustable tool and every panel can be easily hidden. You just need to click on the arrow which shows the direction of the panel moving. We can hide them all and show again. If you cannot see Filter and Toolbar, we can simply hide them and show again later. They are all located in the view panel. Hides toolbar and show toolbar. Now let's talk about image classification and filtering. Once we import a hundreds or thousands of photos into Lightroom, it is very important to be able to quickly find the one we want. First way of classifying is shown during the import, and it is a grouping images into collections. Collections can be found in left hand panel. Here we can simply add new collection by pressing the right-click, Create Collection. And this will automatically add selected photos into the new collection. Also, we can simply drag and drop files inside any collection. Using collections can save us a lot of time in quickly finding and accessing our images. Moreover, we can label our images in three different ways. It can be all done using keyboard shortcuts, toolbar, or pressing on the thumbnail. If you cannot see the toolbar, you can click on View, Show Toolbar, or simply pressing T on our keyboard. We can show or hide toolbar at anytime. There are multiple ways of labeling our images in the toolbar. We can assign ratings to one to five. And we can do it in multiple ways. We can click any button from one to five on our keyboard. We can also adjust the rating from the thumbnail, or by pressing on the toolbar. We can do the same by assigning any color on the image from red to purple. This can be changed in the thumbnail. Also. The third way of classifying photos through toolbar is labeling them as or rejected. All this comes in handy when we want to prioritize our editing order. Also, if we already edited our photo and export it, we can select it as peak. If we don't want to edit the image, we can set it as rejected. To select photo as big, we can press P on our keyboard to reject an image. We can select x on our keyboard. The flag can be also assigned true thumbnail. Classification becomes powerful when used with filtering. To enable filters in Lightroom, we can simply click on View, Show Filter Bar, or just by pressing backslash on our keyboard. Our given labels are placed under attributes. Here, we can filter out the photo by rating, by color, or simply by choosing peaked, rejected, or without any flag. This becomes really handy when we want to filter out or edit only images with specific label. Metadata filtering enable us to filter our photos by date, camera, lens used, or any label. Given. All these tools become more powerful as we add more photos inside Lightroom. By using them, we can quickly trues which photos we would export, edit, or save as our favorites. After we understood this basic principles, we can finally start editing. 4. Section 1 Lession 2 - Basic global Adjustments in Lightroom: In this lecture, we will explore the develop module which serves for image editing. We will define the most important aspects of using Lightroom and finally start editing. To enter the develop mode, we can select our photo and click on developed button here. We can also simply click D on our keyboard. To go back to greet you. We can click on the Library button or just press G on our keyboard. As everything in Lightroom can be accessed easily, true keyboard, we can simply hide this panel. This will leave us more space when we edit photos. So let's go back to the develop module, press D on our keyboard. I will bring back the third panel so we can see the full Lightroom interface. Developed module consists of three main windows similar to the library. Left-hand panel offer us access to Presets, history of editing, and we can simply truce between our collections. Presets are the most useful tool that we will introduce it later. And we will learn how to define our own presets and quickly edit our photos with them. For now, I will hide this window so we can have more space for our image editing. Central area of the screen is our photo which we are editing. The preview depend on the preview built during import. As we have built one-to-one preview for this image, I can quickly see the full size by pressing or anywhere on the photo. So this is 100% size of our photo. To go back, simply click, left-click one more time. We can also collapse that down panel will show us the thumbnails of our images. This panel enable us to quickly choose our photo which we are going to add it so we can switch between back and forth really easily and quickly. For now, we will close this panel also. We will have more space to preview our photo. Right-hand panel is the most important one. At it enabled us to edit our images. Before we start, I recommend in spending this panel a bit as it will give us a better idea about the amount of effect we are applying to our image. Don't be intimidated by all these adjustments. As we will introduce them one by one, and we will see that they are not so hard to understand. Before we start, I would recommend you choosing solo mode by pressing the right mouse-click on the adjustment panel. This will collapse all the panels except the one we are currently using. It makes our screen tidyr and it's easier to follow up. So let's start with editing. Usually, we start editing in a top-down fashion. Let us start with adjusting the color balance. Here we can adjust the white balanced as well as the tinting. We see that the white balance has the number here, and this number is expressed in kelvins. Lower value of the white balanced means that our photo will be colder. While the higher value means the our photo will be warmer, any panel can be reset by double-click on the slider. Here we have the tinting and it represents global tinting of our photo. Earning the slider to left will make our photo more green at turning it to the right will make it more purple. Changing, tinting require a bit of experience. So for now we can skip it. Lightroom also offer us to choose between presets of white balance. We can click here and choose the preset according to the time of the day where our photo was taken. This photo was taken on a cloudy day so we can try to see how it will work. Another way of setting white balance in our photo is to use the offered white balance selector by clicking here or pressing W on our keyboard. With the picker, we can click on white or gray area of our photo and adjust white balance according to this point. So we can try to do it again on 100% size. And here we have it. Now the white balance is set according to the white line on the road. To go back to the original white balance, we can click here and select As Shot. We can see that our camera did a good job and a white balance was actually set according to the white points in our photo. To go back to our selection, we can undo the resetting by pressing Control and Z on our keyboard. After we choose the white balance, we can continue editing and top-down manner. Here we have self-explanatory bars which enable us to edit global exposure, contrast or separate part of the photos. Let us start with the exposure. This is global exposure of the complete image. We can try increasing a little bit as this photo is a bit underexposed. Afterwards we can select the contrast. Increasing the value makes our photo contrast the while decreasing it make it more flat, more contrast offer means a better definition of our image. So we can choose this according to our preferences. Next, we have sliders which enable us to edit specific aspects of our photo. So we can add it only highlights of our image. In this case, it seems like it's better if we increase the highlights a bit. We can edit our shadows or the darker area of our photos. We can edit white points as well as the black points. We are editing only black parts of our image while the bright parts are left unchanged. For adjusting any of these bars Lightroom offer us help while we are adjusting it, we can press Alt or Option on our keyboard and move the slider. And we can see that the screen changes if we are changing black points when we press Alt or Option and move the slider, black parts of the image will represent the parts of photo which is 100% black. So if we want to lower down our black points item will help us by showing us when we did it too much. If we do something like this, we see that most of our images 100% black and we lost a lot of detail. So we will start. Pulling it down until we see that we get some 100% black points. We can do the same for white points. We move the slider while pressing Alt or Option on our keyboard. So we will see when we hit 100% white, little points on our image, R1, 100 percent white. And by having our image displaying 100% white and 100% black points, we increase the perceived dynamic range in our shot, revealing the full potential of our sin. To reset our settings and check the performance, we can click on the Reset button as we are editing raw file, any changes we make in Lightroom can be easily reset to this button to go back and continue editing, we can press Control or Command Z on our keyboard. Before we continue with the bottom of the basic adjustments, let's talk about the histogram. You might have noticed that any change that we make in our image reflects to our histogram. Let's try to understand how this is happening. Understanding histogram is very important in image editing. Our photo is presented to us accordingly to the screen we are facing. If our screen is too bright, we can not have the right representation of the photo. Here, histogram comes in handy. Let us see what happens if we reduce the exposure of our image. We see that histogram turns to the left. If we increase the exposure, Instagram concentrated on the right. This tells us that the histogram represents the distribution of our image. Left side of the histogram represents our dark points, while the right side represents the highlights. We can simply confirm this by moving blacks. We see that our whole histogram moves. If we move white points are her history and move to the right or to the left accordingly. So we can also see when we are hitting 100% white points by enabling highlight clipping on the histogram. We can do the same for black points. So now we can be saved that we are not overexposing our photo. As by doing so, we will lose the details which cannot be turned back. After we export the image. To repeat, we press Alt or Option on our keyboard and move the slider until we see some bright points on the screen. This means that these points are 100% white. Now, according to the histogram, we see that our photo is a little bit overexposed as the majority of the peaks are turned to the right. We can correct this by adjusting global exposure and lower it down a bit. Our goal is to have our histogram as evenly distributed as we can. This will confirm to us that our photo is showing bright and dark areas of the image Realistically. Once we understood the histogram, we can continue to the bottom part of the basic adjustments. These bars are also self-explanatory. We can increase the amount of perceived texture or decrease it. We can increase the clarity of our photo and we can dehaze or introduce haze in our image according to our preferences. Finally, we come to Vibrance and Saturation. These two tools are oftenly overused. My recommendation is to use vibrance more as vibrance, analyze the photo and increase the colors which are not so present. While saturation increased all the color range equally. So if we overuse this effect, we see that our image doesn't look so good. As they are many ways to increase the duration in our image, I will recommend you not to overuse these sliders. Usually you want to keep your saturation level low and use the vibrance more. Our eye tends to find photo more appealing if it's more vibrant. Up next, we will introduce using curves and other great adjustments which will make our photo look better easily. So stay tuned. 5. Section 1 Lesson 3 - Tone Curves and other global basic adjustments 1 curve fixing: In this lecture, we will see how to use the tone curves and other grades futures of Lightroom, which will enable us to further enhance our image. After we have set our white balance and the basic adjustments, we can see what we can do with a tone curves. The representation here is similar to our histogram. On the left side we have the dark points. On the right side, we have the bright points. If we click here and move this one to the left, we will see that we are increasing our bright points. And now our image is overexposed. We can reset the tone curve by pressing right-click, reset all channels. Here we are editing all channels at the same time. We want to add a single color. We can choose it and then move our curve accordingly. Now we're adding red in our image. By pulling down, we're adding green to our photo. Let us focus on all channels. Editing curve, as it is the most easy to understand and use. So we have a straight line here. If we click anywhere on the line and pull up, we will make that area of the image brighter. If we pull down, we make that area of the image darker. If we click on the middle of the image, this would represent our mid-tones. If we can observe our image, we see that the snow here represent the bright points. These shadows here are the dark points. And the road will be the midtones. We can see if we pull this one up, our role become brighter. Let us now reset this curve and try to show one of the most common settings. We will add multiple points on the curve. One for the dark points, one for the mid-tones, and another one for the highlights, will try to pull the highlights up and older dark levels down. This kind of curve represents the most commonly used tone curve, which is called S-shaped curve. This curve as contrast to our image. This is a simple and easy curve to use, which will significantly increase contrast in our photo. We can see before and after by simply turning off the fact. So now let's reset this curve one more time and try to show a custom curve or this image. It also offer us presets. We can choose medium contrast here. So our photo became contrasted. To disable the effect and see the influence which it makes, we can simply click on this bar here. We can see that the medium contrast works pretty well for our image. We can try to replicate this by resetting, pulling up the highlights a bit and bringing down the dark areas of our photo, we can see that our photo became more contrasty. Next, let's see what we can do with hue and saturation adjustment in Lightroom. Here we can adjust hue, saturation and luminance for any color of our image. We can do this by adjusting these sliders or selecting areas of our image we want to adjust. So now we are in saturation. We click on the picker and pull up the color which we want to make more saturated. We can do the same with luminous. If we click on the picker and pull this area of the image up, it will make this color brighter. Adjusting hue require a bit of experience. Here we can edit individual colors, Let's say for example, green. We can see that our green has a bit of yellow inside. If we change the hue of our green and pull it to the right, it will reduce the yellowness in the green. We can do the same by using the picker and clicking on the area of the image we want to change. We can reset any effect in light room by double-clicking on its name. We can achieve the same effect by holding Alt or Option and click on Reset button. We can do the same for our saturation and our luminance. There are many ways of editing colors in Lightroom, and this one is particularly handy. Let us enhance our greens and increase the saturation or this image. After human saturation, Let's explore split, toning. Split morning enable us to tone our image. The image is basically split in highlights and shadows. So we can add a color in the highlights or we can add a specific color in our shadows. Let's say we want to make our shadows a bit cooler. We can do this by adding blue in our shadows. Moving our cursor to the top makes the color more saturated and moving it down makes it less saturated. A useful tip is to make the color highly saturated and then choose the color. After we are satisfied with the color we chose, we can lower our down the saturation. And let's say we can use this one to see the before and after of this effect. We can simply turn it off and then turn it back on. We can do the same with highlights. Let's say we want to add yellow in our highlights. We can do this by simply clicking here. We see that in this case, it's not appealing to do so. But if we are editing sunset photo, we can make it better by adding some weren't in the highlights. This is image of a cold winter day, so we don't need to make it warm. We can keep the tone school so we can reset the highlights by double-clicking on the highlight bar. Next in line is detailed panel. Here we can use sharpening and noise reduction. Both techniques are highly important, especially when editing drone images. Drones often do not offer us the precision and sharpness of a digital camera. We can see these by zooming in. We see that we have a lot of noise present in our image. We can reduce the noise by increasing luminance. Now we can see that we have less noise present in the image, but also we lost some detail. We can try to make this up by introducing sharpening, adjusting amount. Tell us how much sharpening we want to apply using extremely high value is not recommended. Let's try with something around 60. Along with the amount is highly recommended to use masking. Masking will tell us where on the image sharpening will be applied. To see our mask, we can hold alt or option on our keyboard and move the slider to the right. So areas of the photos which are white will be affected by sharpening. Let's have a better view of our photo by zooming out. We adjust the amount of sharpening and then adjust the mask. Let's reduce a bit noise reduction. Zoom into our photo and compare before and after. We see the before. And after, we see that we get rid of a lot of noise by simply using the Noise Reduction tool in Lightroom. Next in line is lens correction. Here we can apply auto distortion correction, which depends on the Chrome we are using. For this drone. We see that built-in lens profile is already applied, so we cannot further apply our lens correction. We can use Remove Chromatic Aberration to remove chromatic aberration in our photo, as chromatic aberration mostly appear when we have a bright light source behind our subject. Now, it will not make a big difference. Now let's see the transform tool. Here. We can do all kinds of transformation of our image. This is particularly useful when we edit architecture photos. In this case, we can simply demonstrate that we can easily rotate our image to the right or to the left. We can adjust the aspect ratio. We can scale our image, making it smaller or larger. We can adjust the perspective in varied in vertical or horizontal axis. And we can do all kinds of photo manipulations. From here, we will explore the transform tool in the following lessons. Now we arrive at the effects toolbar. This toolbar is handy as it let us simply apply vignetting in our photo, the amount of vignetting is adjusted by controlling the amount bar. We can control the midpoint. As always, Lightroom offers help. If we press Alt or Option on our keyboard and adjust the sliders, we can see that the midpoint moves out of our image or moves further inside our image. The same applies to roundness. Here we can adjust how circular will our effect be. If we move it to the right, we get a full circle. Feathering enable us to make our effect less noticeable. Let me demonstrate this by increasing the amount and turning down the black points warning. We see that our filter is a little bit outside of the image. We can correct this by reducing the midpoint. If we don't use any feathering, our effect will be applied by a single line. This make it look extremely nat natural. By introducing feathering, our effect becomes more natural as it is more gradually applied. Now let's reduce the amount. And we have a nice feather added to our image. We can turn it off to see the effect and turn it on again. We see that we can adjust the midpoint a bit so the feather will get further into our folder. Finally, we are at the calibration bar, calibration toolbar. Let us adjust hue and saturation for three primary colors in any image, red, green, and blue. In our image, the most dominant color is green. Let's try adjusting its hue and saturation. We can see that increasing saturation makes our whole image more saturated. Adjusting hue can change the way Lightroom represents the colors. So we can match a certain feeling or we can try to replicate the view we experienced while visiting the place. We can see that moving slider to the left makes our green more yellow. And moving our slider to the right, reduce yellowness in our green. This might come a bit tricky to handle if you are not experiencing color management, but we will slowly introduce and explain how to use calibration throughout the course. Now after we are done with the basic and global adjustments, we can quickly compare the before and after and see how we have done so far. So we can reset all the edges by pressing the reset key to revert or see the after we can undo the changes by pressing Control or Command plus Z. We see that our photo looks more alive. To compare the before and after, we can choose one of the options we have in the toolbar here. Let us cycle between before and after views. This help us track our progress as well to compare the before and after views. Up next is using local adjustments and explaining this panel here. Stay tuned and see you in the next lecture. 6. Section 1 Lesson 4 - Cropping Filters and Local Adjustments 1: In this lecture, we will see possible ways for cropping our image, as well as how we can use local adjustments to further enhance our photo. So let's get started. Let's start with cropping. This photo has a nice composition. Let's see, can we improve this by cropping it a little bit better to access cropping. We can press on this crop overlay button or simply press R on our keyboard. Now we have our crop preview. We can use different kinds of previous to better crop our photo. This preview offer us to crop our photo using the rule of terrorists. We can change the preview by pressing 0 on our keyboard, we can see different kinds of cropping options, which will help us select our best composition. By pressing in the top right corner and pulling the mouse down, we can rotate our photo and cropping it at the same time. By default, if we try to make our image smaller, it will contain the default aspect ratio. We can change the settings here. We can choose any of the aspects ratios offered, or we can even add enter our custom aspect ratio, let's say 16 times 9. Now, our aspect ratio is locked and anything we do on our image will keep the same aspect ratio. If we want to crop our image, really, we can simply click on the Train button. Now we can move and crop our image really. To reset our crop, we can press on the right click Reset Crop. Let's see how we can use this preview to enhance our photo. It's always good to keep symmetry in our composition. So let's try to put these two diagonal lines cross the middle of our image and directly intersect our wrote. This will make our composition look more symmetrical and the photo will be more appealing. When cropping. If we hold the Alt or Option button on our keyboard and pull down, we will crop the photo from both sides, keeping the center in the middle of the frame. To undo the changes our press Control Z on my keyboard. And by holding Shift key and cropping the image, we will keep our aspect ratio locked, even though we unlock it by pressing or the key chain here. Once we're happy with our composition, we can press R on our keyboard to exit the cropping mode. Next we have the Spot Removal tool. This tool is useful if we have a single spot which we want to remove from our photo, we can access it by pressing on the spot removal button or pressing Q on our keyboard. Spot Removal tool offers two options, cloning and healing. Cloning will basically copy a certain part of our image into the desired part. We can use it by choosing clone. Let's say that we want to remove this colon on the road. To adjust the size, we can use the size bar, or we can simply scroll on our mouse key. Now let's try to paint over this column on the road and see how we Lightroom deal with it. By default, you will try to find similar area of the image and copy from that area into our selected area. Let's see, Did it do a good job? We can see that Lightroom did a pretty good job, although this kind of work is better done in using Photoshop. Let's try to test our healing option and tried to remove another column from the road. So we press Q on our keyboard, select healing, and then simply paint over this yellow column. We see here the Lightroom didn't do so good drug. But when we see the small image is barely noticeable. Unlike cloning, healing actually creates texture according to the surrounding pixels. So that's the main difference between them. This was just to demonstrate how we can remove objects using Lightroom. In this case, I would rather to keep these columns as they define our road better. To reset the effect. Like any other, we can click on the Reset button to preview changes with and without our Spot Removal tool, we can simply press on this, which so now we can see the columns. Now we don't see them. We will reset our Spot Removal tool changes and continue to see which other options lightroom have to offer us. Up. Next is red eye correction. As we are dealing with aerial photos, we can keep this. Now we come to three main tools which are used in daily editing with Lightroom. These are graduated filter, radial filter, and the adjustment brush. Graduated filter enable us to introduce a local change to our image, which will be applied only in the area which is selected by the filter. Let's say we want to reduce exposure on our image from top to down. To add a filter, we simply click and drag our cursor in the desired direction where the filter will be applied. We see that our effect is applying create jelly, and the gradient starts from this central line. To control the length of our gradient, we can hold the Alt key and simply move this bottom line. It will further prolong the effect we want to apply. To see the area which is affected by our filter. We can press O on our keyboard. We can see that above the middle line, area is all red. Below the middle line we have the effect of gradient. So it comes from full read up to basically heared. We don't have any effect at all. We can press O on our keyboard to remove the overlay and try to use this filter properly. To delete, we can press right-click Delete filter. Let's say that we want to reduce exposure from both sides to attract more attention to our road. We can do so by, let's say we want to reduce minus 0.3, press and hold our mouse like so. And we want to do the same from our opposite side. Like so. This will keep the eye of our viewer on the road. And we can do any kind of changes here. Let's say we can reduce highlights. We can add, dehaze or any other option. So by using filters, we can add any of the changes which are described in the previous lecture. Graduated filter over a certain options which will help us isolate the area where they are applied. We can find it in the bottom here, range mask. In range mass, we can choose between color and luminance. By choosing color, we can apply our filter only to a certain color in our image. Let's say we want to darken up a white snow. We can click on the Color Range Selector and press on the snow to see the changes. We can press O on our keyboard to see the overlay. Now we see that we only darken the snow, leaving our grass and affected. We reverse this effect. We can simply deselect it. Now, our effect is applied on the whole area of the filter. We can hold Shift and click multiple times to add up our colors. This offer us better control of the effect applied. Let's say we want to affect different shades of white. So we simply click multiple times on different shades of white. If we set amount to a higher value, our FLT get amplified. If we set it to a lower value, the effect weakens. Let's see the next range mask. We can choose luminance. Luminance. Let us apply our filter according to the brightness of the area in the photo. This replicates the histogram. So on the left we have the dark points. On the right we have the bright points. And the area in between defines the area in which the filter will be applied. If we don't want to apply our filter in the shadows or in the dark regions, we can simply hold and pull this bar to the middle of the frame. We see that these filters out the darkest spots. If we reverse it, we see that our effect is applied in the shadows more if we don't want to affect the snow or the bright points in our image, we can simply hold and pull our highlights to the middle of this bar. Now, we're affecting only the darkest points. To make the usage of this effect more adjustable, we can pull our selected range and move our area across the bar. And this helps us precisely select the area of our photo. We want to apply our effect by holding it in the middle. Our effect will be applied only to the midtones. We can turn this off and set our exposure lower. As we said before, reducing exposure to the edges, keep our eyes focused on the road. After graduated filter, Let's see what radial filter has to offer. Radial filter enable us to apply a circular filter in the selected area. We simply click and pull until we get the desired size of our filter. Let's say we want to brighten up the middle. And I will do exaggerated values just to show how it works. The most important feature of the radial filter is feathering. As before, if we said feathering to 0, we see that we get the perfect circle. If we said feathering to higher value, we see that our filter gets gradually applied. So in the center of the circle is the strongest. N on the outside gets gradually weekend. We can simply press Delete on our keyboard or just right-click and press Delete. If we want to make a perfect circle, we can hold shift on our keyboard and simply drag and drop our filter. Now we see that we get a perfect circle. We are not happy with this shape. We can reshape it by pressing on this OUT dots. We can control the width and general size of our filter. To adjust the filter symmetrically, we can hold shift on our keyboard and simply pull on any of the points selected. Filter can be applied inside the sphere and outside the sphere. We can control this by selecting the invert button. Now, our effect is applied outside of the circle. To confirm this, we can press O on our keyboard to show the area which is being affected by our radial filter, we see that now is outside of the sphere. If we press invert, it will be inside the sphere. Let's delete this filter and tried to enhance our road by using radial filter to reset the value on our bar, we can simply double-click on the effect. Now let's add one more filter, which we will use to brighten up our road and attract a lot more attention to it. Let us increase the exposure a bit and open up our shadows a bit. Now we can see that it's clearly obvious where we apply the filter because our feathering is really low value. We can solve this by increasing our feathering and maybe pulling down the exposure. The goal when using these filters is not to let the viewer see where we have applied the filter. Only that will guarantee that our photo will look natural and it will achieve the desired effects in the range of luminance. Masking can be used exactly as with Graduated Filter. So we will skip it for now and move on to the next adjustment. Let's go to our bash adjustment tool. This is very important tool in Lightroom as it enabled us to apply local changes to any part of our image. The basic settings we have on our brush size, better blow and density. To change size of our brush, we can simply pull the bar which defines size. Or we can scroll the mouse wheel. Scrolling down, we'll make our brush smaller whilst growing up, we'll make our brush bigger. Feather works similarly. Just now, if we increase the feathering, we will paint more on the outside of the main circular area. If we make our feathers smaller, our brush will basically become a circle. To demonstrate this, we can use, let's say, plus one on the exposure and click anywhere in our image, we see that we get a full circle. If we increase the feathering and do the same, our circle gets graduated and it looks much more appealing to our eye. To reset all our brushwork, we can simply scroll down and press the reset key. Other two useful options are flow and density. Low will adjust the speed of which our effect is applied. If our flow is 100, then we will need to click certain amount of time to achieve the full power of our effect. If we reduce the flow, let's say to a 50, then we will need to click two times more to achieve the same power of effect. This gives us a better control of how powerful we are. Our effect be. Density works have been different. Let's say we want to add plus one on the exposure. We insert one with our keyboard and we choose density of 50. When we want to add, our effect is will be kept by a half. This means that the maximum we can add in exposure is 0.5, not one. If we increase the flow to 101 to firstly paint over our road, we see that our effect is much weaker than in the case that our density was 100. Combining these two, we get a gray control of our brush and we can do many interesting things in Lightroom. Let's reset one more time to show another interesting option. And that's auto masking. Using auto masking enable us to use powerful Lightroom feature, which will try to define the difference between the two objects in the image. Let's tested while painting on this road, I will turn on auto masking. And let's say we want to add plus one to our roads exposure. Let's keep our density and flow to 100 so we will know that our effect will be powerful. We can also reduce feathering a bit. And now let's try to paint. This is not the greatest example to show auto masking, but in some cases, this tool can be highly useful. Let's see, does it work in practice? We'll delete the brush we just apply by pressing tell on our keyboard. Now let's try to paint along the edge to only affect left side of the road. We see that auto masking prevent us from painting on the line. If we turn off auto masking and tried to do the same here, we will simply paint over the line on the road. Both blush and the radial filter offer us to use range masks, which we have already explained while explaining graduated filter. So this concludes all the local edits we can do on our image by using Lightroom. Can now, let's reset our brush and show quickly how we can use brush to enhance this image. We can reset any of the changes by double pressing or the effect. Now, let's say we want to make this road pop up a bit more. Let's try to do this by making our road a bit colder. We reduce the white balance and simply paint over her road. Now we are showing our paint overlay. We can disable it by pressing 0 on our keyboard and continue painting. This might be a bit too much less reduce the intensity of our effect. And less increase Whites. This will make our road more contrasty and our eye will go to that point. Pastor, we can further increase the contrast of our road, which will make it stand out a bit more. This concludes our local adjustments in Lightroom. Now we can once more go back and see the original file and compare the before and after, we can click on the Reset button to see our original file and undo the changes by pressing Control Z to see the after. We saw how we can make a great change on our image. Introducing one by one adjustment tool. This lecture might be a bit overwhelming, but don't worry, is the best to you learn Lightroom by doing so, stay tuned as we will repeat this processes in every workflow we shall see you in the next lesson. 7. Section 1 Lesson 5 - Settings transfering and File Exporting in Lightroom: In this lecture, we are going to see how we can copy and reuse our edits from one image to another. How to choose the right settings for photo exporting. And few tips and tricks along the way. So let's get started. After we have edited this photo in the last lecture, we can give it a five-stars. Now let's say we want to edit this photo. We don't have to start from scratch. We can copy edits we did on the first image by pressing right-click, Develop Settings, Copy Settings. And now we get this dialogue. Here are the list of settings we can reuse and copy from the first image to any image we want in this grid. I don't recommend choosing white balance as well as local adjustments as their image specific and they can make our photo looks bad. Also is not recommended to choose transform, Spot Removal and cropping because they are also imaged specific and they might not work transferring them from one image to another. Oftentimes is possible to copy graduated and radial filter, especially in this case where our boat photos are aerial bird's eye top-down views. So now after we have chosen our settings, let's click on Copy. To paste the settings. We can choose the images we like. We can hold Control or Command and select both images. Press, right-click, Develop Settings, Paste Settings. Now we see that ad is from first photo are transferred to the following two images. We can notice that the first photo is more exposed than the second one. There is a handy trick in Lightroom how we can match exposures. We can select the boat images again. Press on photo, develop settings, match total exposures. Now Lightroom analyze first photo and match total exposure or the second image. We see that now photos look more or less the same. One more handy trick is that we can easily rotate an image from the GridView. Just press on this button and our image is rotated. Let's say we want to compare these two images and see which one we like more. We can hold Control or Command key. Select both images and press C on our keyboard. Now we are in compare view. We can zoom in and check our images at 100%. And we can see which one of them to be like more. Let's say I lie how this image works better. We can mark it by pressing number six on our keyboard, which will set the label to read. We can also change the label from this button. Now press G on our keyboard to go back to the Grid View and we can continue editing this image. Copying and pasting effects can be easily accessed through keyboards. Just click on the image we want to transfer settings from press Control or Command plus Shift and C. Click Copy and to paste, we can simply do Command or Control shift and V. So we will achieve the same effect. Now let's show how we can quickly edit our image by copying settings. Press D on our keyboard to enter the develop mode. One handy tip in developed more that we can easily change the background. Just press right-click and we can use dark gray for example. We see that this image now looks much better. We can reset the settings and see the original and press Control or Command Z to undo the changes. We notice that we have a bit of too strong light here. We can reduce it by using our graduated filter. Set exposure to, let's say minus 0.5. Click and drag. And we can reduce the exposure of this part. As in previous edit, we can increase the contrast and exposure of our road to attract more attention to it. We see that this is a bit too much. We can reduce it a little. And here we go. So from this original image, we came to the enhanced version in less than one minute by simply copying our settings. To show that we are happy with this image, we'll give it a five-star rating by pressing F5 on our keyboard. Let us now see how we can use attribute filter to filter out our images and export them easier. If you don't see the filter view, you can go to View Show Filter Bar will click on attribute and choose five-stars. Now we see only images with five-star rating. We can press Control or Command a to select all of them. And now let's export them to JPEG so we can bother them on social media or use them in any other way. To export an image. We can click on File Export. We can do the same by this shortcut. Now we see the export dialogue. First, we choose the location. Let's say we want to export our images to desktop. We can also create a sub folder, Let's say we name it area. Now the following dialogue offers to choose a default action if the file with the same name already exists is smartest to ask us what to do so we can decide for every case specifically, let's widen up this dialog so we can see our other options. We can write a custom name to our file. In this case, I've chosen to add the camera model after the image name. We can choose all kinds of settings. We can write a custom name, we can include that date, we can include a sequence. And this tool offers a wide variety of options. And now let's go to the most important part, which is cruising our compression method and the file type. So we export our images as JPEG. And for quality, I would recommend using 94 or 95, something close to a 100. Using a 100 will make our files much bigger. And if you examine the image by your eye, you cannot tell the difference. But it's always good to have lower compression and bigger files to preserve our details. Second important option is the color space. If you want to use the image to post on social media or use it in any form online. I will recommend you to use sRGB because this is the color space which is used by the web. By default. If you want to print your image, use it in a different way. You can choose the pro photo RGB or is the best to consult the company which do printing for you. And they will tell you which color spaces the best to use. Difference betweens pro photo RGB and sRGB is that pro photo RGB over are much bigger palette of colors. But using this to color spaces on the web often don't give you the best results. Resolution of our image defines how many pixels we have per inch. And this is the safest to keep on the default or use something between 230 or 250. This aspect is also important for printing your images. Now we can include watermark, we can include or remove our metadata. We can remove all metadata. We can remove the location info which is sailed by default when capturing image with a drone or any modern camera. And finally, after exploiting, we can choose an action for Lightroom to take on our behalf so we can continue to do what we want with our image or our case. I will use show in Explorer. So it will offer us the directory where we exported the image. Now, after we chosen all of our settings, we can simply click on export. The export dialogue is shown here. And we can track our progress. We'll see that our image exporting is done. And we can open and see our image on the full screen. So this concludes our lecture and we saw how we can improve our workflow in Lightroom and quickly transfer settings between the images. Stay tuned to learn more and further enhance your workflow in Lightroom. See you in the next video. 8. Section 1 Lesson 6 - How to make HDR and Panorama in LR: In this lecture, we're going to see how we can quickly and easily merged HDR send panoramas in Lightroom. And how can this help us improve our aerial photography? So let's get started. I have imported our HDR and Panorama examples into the grid view. Let's start with HDR. In aerial photography is extremely important to use auto exposure bracketing to create HDR hours. As most commercial drones do not offer us the same dynamic range as the modern DSLR or mirrorless cameras. Let's see how HDR can help us in this image. So auto exposure bracketing takes three different exposures of the same scene. We can see that in the darkest exposure, we can see the nice colors of the sunset. In the brightest exposure, we can see all the details in the snow and the road. When we blend these two images together, we get the best of all three exposures. Let's see how we can easily merge these three images into an HDR. First, we start by selecting our tree images, pressing right-click Photo Merge, HDR. The most important settings is to choose out of align to use Diigo stick. The purpose of dig ghosting is to remove all the differences between the images. If this car, for example, was moving quickly, the ghosting would place the car only in one position. And eliminating the motion blur, we can choose between the strength of the effect and is highly useful to implement it. It's some cases, we see that in this case, the ghosting didn't do much because the car was moving slowly. After you're satisfied with our HDR, we can simply click Merge. Now Lightroom will do is processing in the background and outlook does with the pores picture, which will contain all three exposures. Now we've got our HDR. We can press V on our keyboard to enter the develop mode. We can examine the image by reducing and increasing exposure. We see that when we reduce the exposure, we see our colors in the sky where we increase our exposure, we see that we still have a large number of details in the road. So this image has much higher potential for editing as we have virtually created a much higher dynamic range that our drone is offering in the first place. This increased the quality of our image and drastically improved its editing potential. And now let's see how we can merge a panorama in Lightroom. Lets say we can mark our Panorama by assigning a certain color, in this case yellow. So all of these images represent one aerial panorama. Lightroom offers us to make an HDR panorama by only two clicks, which makes our life much easier. So this is an HDR panorama. To merge it, we press the right-click Photo Merge HDR panorama. We can achieve the same thing by pressing control and M on our keyboard as Lightroom automatically recognize if our panorama is actually an HDR panorama. Lightroom. Let us choose between three different projection for our panorama. In most cases, spherical one works the best. But if we are merging our vertical panorama, for example, I find that perspective projection works the best. After we choose our projection, we can control boundary wrap, which will try to straighten up the address of our panorama. So we don't have this blank space here. We see that if we set it to a 100, it will straighten up our panorama, peeling up the frame. We can use auto crop or auto settings. But it's not necessarily because we are learning how to efficiently edit photos in Lightroom. Once we are done with our image, we can simply click on Merge. As the case in HDR, Lightroom will output as one more image, which will contain all of those exposures we selected just now, making a panorama via drone offers unlimited possibilities to create and unique perspectives. And it's an option that I highly recommend using. We saw how it's simple and easy to create panoramas and HDR is in Lightroom. And these are the two options I highly recommend you to use whenever it's possible. Stay tuned to see how we can edit any kind of photo in Lightroom and create stunning images. See you in the next lecture. 9. Section 2 Lesson 1 - Top Down Birds Eye View Photography: In this section, we are going to see an analyze our first group of photos, bird's eye top-down aerial photos. We will analyze photos created by us, different circumstances created in different countries. And we will try to find a pattern, how we can edit these photos efficiently and made them look amazing. Also, we are going to see what are the most common flows in these images. Finally, I will show you a full workflow of editing top-down aerial photo from which we can take out some pattern and procedure which we can apply to editing any top-down photograph. So let's discuss bird's eye photography. And the most common characteristics that these images have. Bird's eye photo is a photo capture by a 90 degrees angle from the sky. The angle can be similar or close to 90 degrees. When we consider editing, I would group these images into bird's eye or top-down views. If our view doesn't show the sky, we can see that all of these images do not show the sky. When image doesn't show the sky, it has much smaller dynamic range. And also, after editing a great amount of this kind of images, we will notice some patterns. And when we are learning a new skill, it always better to have a clear idea what we need to do. This will help us boost our creativity as we know that there are basic principles we need to follow. So after we don't think about them, we will just focus on the creative part or how we can enhance the colors, how we can improve the composition by editing and so on. First I top-down photography offer as unique composition and creativity possibilities. We can capture patterns, capture roads, and overall create amazing and unique perspectives which we cannot see when we are on the ground. Top-down birds die. Photos have similar problems and characteristics. Understanding them will help us improve our editing process by accepting the pattern which we can apply in edit any bird's eye view. So most common problems with top-down views is that the photos are under saturated and often hazy. This is due to the poor visibility, bad weather conditions are humid weather or any different environmental factor. Also, different kinds of circumstances can lead us to have low contrast photos. This can be due to the bed lighting or even overcast weather will make our scene looking flat. That's why we will see what are the best practices inefficiently editing these kind of images by using various tools and sliders and Lightroom has to offer us. So now let's see fuel before and after examples. So we can take out the idea and try to realize a certain pattern. If it's there. We see that this desert road, as stated before, image looks a little bit hazy and flat. There is nothing much to attract our attention. And let's see the after we see that, we can notice the road immediately and our eyes focused on it. The same applies to this image of Palm Island. This is a photo from a beautiful beach in Sri Lanka. Unlike the examples before, this photo is a little bit overexposed. And as is taken from around 400 meters, we see that the scene is a bit hazy, even though the weather was perfectly fine and the visibility was really good. So let's see how we can fix this photo in Lightroom. And this is the before and after the image from Iceland we have edited together in the beginning of this course. And we see that the before and after. Then we reuse the same settings and with small modification, we got the image from this to that. I need to say that all of these images are more or less capture with a proper exposure. So the before and after changes focus on contrast, on white and dark levels and color editing. This is one thing to consider when shooting, that it will be much easier for you to edit the image if the exposure is set properly and the scene is properly exposed. Up. Next, we will go through the full editing workflow of a top-down image. We will see the best practices in enhancing this kind of photos. And let's try to realize the pattern which is useful when editing various bird's eye view photos. So let's start editing. 10. Section 2 Lesson 2 - Top down image Edit workflow: In this lecture, we will be going through the full editing workflow, often top-down bird's eye aerial image and see how we can get the raw image on the left looking like the edited image on the right. So let's get started editing. The raw file is available for download in the course material. I recommend you to download it and follow along in this lesson our row images here, we press D on our keyboard to enter the develop mode and start editing. First, let's take a look at the image. We see that the exposure is more or less right? As stated before, we see that the image, like most drone images, likes of contrast and also the colors are not there. But we should also notice that this is the photo from the desert and we can not expected to have a various colors in it till we will try to make this image alive and do the full editing workflow. So let's start editing. From the histogram. We can see that the image is slightly underexposed. So we will fix this by increasing exposure and placing our histogram perfectly in the center. Afterwards we can try adjusting the contrast a bit. We will not overdo it as there are many ways to adjust contrast in Lightroom after we can just reduce highlights a bit, although they're not the issue now. Also, we can open up the shadows a bit. Now let's see white and black points. These two sliders might be the most important as by adjusting them, we increase the perceived dynamic range of the image and also we further enhance the contrast. So by holding Alt or Option on our keyboard and sliding the black slider on the left, we can see that our image doesn't have any pure black point. So let's try to create our k. We see that the bottom points are purely black. Now let's do the same with whites holding Alt or Option on our keyboard and sliding to the right. Also, we can observe the changes from the histogram. Now we see that the red point represent 1 of the image, which is purely white. For now we can skip addressed in vibrance and saturation as color can sometimes be a distraction during editing. We should try to enhance our scene and make her image more contrasty. And later we will worry about the colors. We can try using D Hayes as this in an aerial shot and some haze is always present. We shouldn't overuse this slider as it will lead to inserting unwanted artifacts in our image, as we can see here. So let's keep it around 20. We will continue by using curve adjustments. We will do a typical S curve by pulling up the highlights a bit. And at the same time, pulling down the dark areas are bid. And we see that our photo is already more contrasty. We see the before and the after. After this we can see our details and apply some sharpening. This image is captured by DJI, drone and the amount of noise and the level of sharpness of our image will be dependent on the camera we were using. We see that this image is fairly sharp as the photo was taken during the bright light, we have low presence of noise. We can still use, let's say nine for the noise reduction. And apply our sharpening as before by holding Alt or Option and moving the Masking slider, we see that areas of the image which are being sharpened, usually we want to sharpen up the edges. Now we can zoom out. For this drawn, the lens correction profile is already applied. And now let's go back to color. We can try to add around 15 for vibrance. And let's say 34 saturation. I'm not a fan of adding saturation in Lightroom as the colors can be enhanced in many different ways. After we have done the basic edits, Let's go to the cropping tool by pressing R on our keyboard or choosing the crop overlay button. We can see that the composition seems right and there is no reason to crop our image. So we can press R on our keyboard one more time to go out of the cropping mode. Now let's try to insert few local edits and draw more attention to our road. First, let's start with one radial filter. We can increase exposure of our road and increase the contrast at the same time. Now, we can try to draw more attention to our road by using the brush tool. We double-click here to reset the settings. And we can increase the white levels and use more Dehaze. Now we can simply paint over our road. We can press O on our keyboard to see the overlay and we see that we painted over our road nicely. Now we can further adjust the effect to get the desired look. After we have done this, we can try to reduce the exposure a bit. And as I like to say, close down the image from the corners. So we reduce exposure a bit from here and do the same from the left corner. One thing I would like to do in this case is to reduce exposure of this rocks here. As they were directly lit by the sun, their exposure level is a bit too much compared to the surroundings. So we don't want this line to draw attention of our viewer. Soldiers tried to decrease exposure a bit and highlights level a bit and paint around here. If we want to delete our brush painting, we can hold alt or option on our keyboard and pain. This will erase our brush. Now we see that our image is looking nice. Now I would like to increase black levels of bit. And now we can play with texture and clarity to further enhance the definition in our image. Let's try to add 3 on the texture and five on clarity. To track our progress, we can always reset the settings and go back to continue editing. So we're resetting the settings to see that before. And we see that after we achieved our desired effect and our image appears more contrasty and more alive. Finally, we will utilize a calibration tool to tweak our three primary colors a bit. As this can change the mood of our image drastically. So we can try pulling the red channel to the right a bit. So our red channel will become a bit yellow. We can try to edit blue primary channel and pull the blue a bit to the left. I would advise you to experiment with the calibration tool. Calibration is really good in developing your own style. If you edit your colors uniquely, your photos can follow a certain style and your work can be easily distinguished among others. Let's try to see the before and after and how we did on this edit. So we reset the settings to see the before and the after. We have seen that by using these quick and simple techniques, we can drastically improve our photos. Also, these steps represent a workflow which can be applied to different top-down images. As a final step, if we are satisfied with this edit, we can create our own preset. So later when we edit different top-down bird's eye views, we can simply apply our preset and we don't have to start from scratch to create a preset. We bring our left panel here. Click plus on the preset. Create a preset. We can name it bird's eye view. And let's choose which settings we want to use. I don't recommend using white balance, as well as a graduated and radial filters. So we will use only our basic edits, click Create. And now we have our own preset bird's eye view. So here is our final edit. Let's see the before and after one more time, which will conclude this lesson. If you want to see how we can edit different types of aerial images, stay tuned and follow up along. See you in the next lesson. 11. Section 2 Lesson 3 - How to create and use Presets: In this lesson, we are going to see a quick and easy way how we can utilize the saved presets in Lightroom and save a lot of time in editing. So let's get started. In the last lesson, we edited and top-down image and created a preset. We named it bird's eye view. Let's see a few different ways how we can directly apply the preset to our images. I filter out these photos which are not edited and label them with the yellow color. Let's select all of them by pressing shift on our keyboard and clicking on the first and the last one. Let's see how we can apply. Our preset, can edit all of these images together. We see here in quick develop saved preset. So default settings don't have any editing. We can go down to User Presets and trues our bird's eye view. With one mouse-click. We applied our preset to all of the images. It will not match all of them because they are shot in different exposures. But let's see how we can save a lot of time now. We can even edit our images from the grid view by using quick developed two. We see that this image is a little bit underexposed. We can notice this from the histogram and also by visual inspection, we can increase the exposure a bit and our image is already edited. Only thing left to do is to apply some color correction and our image will be looking great. In this case, the desert road is a little bit overexposed. We can notice this from the histogram also. Now from quick edit, we can simply lower down the exposure and let us make sure and compare the before and after on these few images. So we press D on our keyboard. This is our edited image just by applying the saved preset and lowering down the exposure. Let us reset and see the before and the after. This is amazing. Let us reveal the thumbnails and go forward to inspect the second image. So this is our 10 seconds edit, and this is the original image. The before and the after. Looks great, right? Let us go to the third one. This image can be easily fixed by simply introducing one graduated filter here. As we see that the sunlit, this part a little bit too much. Let us introduce one graduated filter lower than the exposure, and introduced the filter from the top-left corner. Okay, took us five seconds to do this. And we can further adjust the exposure a bit more. Now let us see the before and the after law school. We can further inspect this image. So we just apply the preset here. Let's reset the before and after. Let us spec the Icelandic road. We see that before and after. So the preset we saved in the last lesson and doesn't intend to completely edit your image. But we see that this is a much better starting point. So by starting from here, we can save a ton of time. If we start from there, we will use more time to make the desired effect. So this is a one and quick and easy way to edit our photos with precess. Let us see, now we are in development mode. This is the original file. We can find our presets in the left panel. So we can click here to make our panel stay permanently. And we have all of these presets here. Lightroom offer us some presets. By default, we can choose between different editing styles, but they don't achieve the desired effect even though they can also be interesting and fun to use. Some times, let us go to our user presets and trues are bird's eye view. So this is the second way how we can easily utilize our saved presets. As before, we can simply lower down the exposure here and see the before and the after. This is really a great way to save time in Lightroom. Now, let me show you the third way to use presets. So the third way to use presets is to apply them during the importing. This is a handy way to show you one more way we can quickly import photos in Lightroom. Okay, so we want to import these three images. We can simply click and drag our photos and drop them inside light truck. Now, Lightroom and offers the same standard import dialog. We can choose to move or copy our images. We can build one-to-one or standard previews. And now what is the fun part? We can use Develop Settings while importing. So we can apply our User Presets, choose the bird's eye view and simply click Import. Now the images are being imported and our Develop Presets is being applied at the same time. So we see the preview is being generated and the preset is being applied to every single image. Let us see one more time. We can simply rotate the photo from here. I think it looks good like this. Press D to enter the develop mode. And we can see the original file and the file with our preset. I hope that this was helpful. And now you saw many ways how you can save time in Lightroom and reuse already done edits. If you want to learn more about Lightroom and photo editing, stay tuned and see you in the next lesson. 12. Section 3 Lesson 1 - Daytime Aerial Landscapes Introduction: In this lecture, we are going to analyze second type of images, daytime, aerial landscape photos. These images are grouped by the time of the day when they're captured. Being captured under similar circumstances make the editing workflow follow the same pattern. Let us quickly analyze few characteristics of daytime aerial images. So some of the characteristics of data area landscapes are these group of images includes the sky in the photo. Also. These photos are captured during the mid day when the sun is up in the sky. Having son up in the sky will introduce certain characteristics into our images. So these kind of images should be treated in a certain way. Most common issues to be fixed while editing are. Among others. We need to deal with strong light, making harsh shadows. We will have lack of colors in the sky. Also, as in any aerial photo, we will have under saturated and hazy images due to poor visibility, which is often the case. Also, our photos will often be low contrast and our subject will be undefined. It's our goal during editing to overcome these issues and make our photos look amazing. So now let's drag few before and after examples so we can see what are the editing procedures implemented in this type of images. This is a desert road capture in the mid day during harsh sun. The before and after we see that colors in the sky came back to life. And also, we have a person here to enhance the image and show a sense of scale. This is an aerial image of a beautiful nature in Southern China. Due to the humid weather and high altitude of the drone, the photo is hazy and under saturated. So this is the before. And let's see how we can fix this photo in Lightroom. This is the after. This is an aerial image of Shanghai landscape during the overcasting cloudy day. But this is still daytime landscape and this is not a sunset shot. So let's see the after Lightroom enable us to easily make our photo pop and bring it back to life. This is another photo of a desert road capture in the midday, we see that our image is flat and there is absolutely no color in the sky. But luckily, we can easily fix this in post-production. So this is the before and this is the after. Up. Next, we will see the full editing workflow of days time landscape, aerial photo in Lightroom. Let us improve our images and make them Pope and be amazing. So stay tuned and let us create an amazing edits together. See you in the next video. 13. Section 3 Lesson 2 - Daytime Landscape Full Editing Workflow in LR: In this lecture, we will do a full editing workflow of a datetime area landscape and make this image looking like that. So without further ado, let's start editing. We press D on our keyboard to enter the develop mode. This photo is available for download Documents section. So let's get started editing. As always, first, we will observe the image and get the idea what should be fixed. We are starting by looking at the histogram and we see that our image is a bit overexposed as the majority of our histogram is concentrated on the right side. We can fix this by reducing exposure. Upbeat. Our photo looks hazy and our sky is not defined and generally flat. Let us start by making our basic adjustments. As usual. We'll bump up the contrast a bit. For now. We will skip highlights and shadows as they are not the issue here. We see that our highlights are within the area and the shadows are a bit overexposed. This can be noticed from the left-hand side of the histogram. Left-hand side of the histogram is empty, meaning that there is no information in our dark levels. We can fix this by pulling out the blacks to the left. You see that our histogram is spreading. To spread the histogram to the right, we will pull the whites to the right. We see that our histogram is now spread up and our image perceived dynamic range is larger. We are pulling up the y's. Another problem pops. This problem was not present while editing top-down views. And we see that our sky further loses the information. If we insist to pull the y's to the right. Finally, our sky will be the first one to be overexposed and be a 100 percent white. We don't want this to happen. So let's pull the y's to the level which will make our image looks more natural as always, to make sure that we are not clipping and important part of the image. We can hold alt or option on our keyboard and move the y sliders across the bar. If we see the white areas on the masking, we know that we have 100% white areas on the image. This is not good because we are losing information. So we should increase the white points until we start to notice some clipping. Now we can try and produce some D hazing as these images, obviously hazy, my recommendation is to keep the dehaze bar around 20. As usual, we will skip the vibrance and saturation bars. Ls continue to tone curves as before, we will try to add contrast by making our S-shaped curve. So we are pulling up the highlights and pulling down our shadows a bit. We see that our image is already defined better. Also we can notice that we regain some color inside the image, even though so far we didn't touch anything related to colors itself, let us sharpen up this image of bits so we will not forget to do it later. This image is fairly sharp, so we don't need to introduce a lot of sharpening, but it's usually recommended with editing aerial photos. We know that drones do not offer as the amazing level of details we can get with the DSLR cameras. But regarding we take images from far above. They are doing a great job. As always, we hold Alt or Option on our keyboard and move the Masking slider to see where the sharpening will be applied. After this, we can edit the amount of sharpening to introduce to get the desired level. There is no need to do noise reduction as the image is taken in the midday, so there is low presence of noise. Now let us introduce some local adjustments to further enhance our photo. We are starting by using the graduated filter. It is obvious that our sky is overexposed. So our first goal is to reduce exposure of the sky. So we are pulling down the exposure slider to the left. And we introduce one graduated filter from the top to the of the image. We should keep the feathering area wide. So I'll filter will look natural along with the exposure, we can introduce a bit of D hazy in the sky to regain some colors. Now we can introduce one more graduated filter and further reduce the exposure of the sky. This is a bit too much N1 handy trick when we are introducing any filter of our adjustment brush is that we can press on the middle button here, holding Alt or option. By holding Alt or Option on our keyboard. And moving this slider to the left, we are reducing the amount of effect introduced by moving the slider to the right, we are increasing the effect we introduced. This is a handy trick, how we can quickly edit and visually perceive what our effect is doing in Lightroom. So let's keep this lower to make it look natural. So let's try to attract our viewers attention to this amazing highway. We can achieve this in multiple ways. First, let's try to introduce one radial filter. We double-click on the effect button to reset the existing settings. Ls tried to boost the contrast of our road. Clicking and dragging in the middle of the frame. We will add one radial filter above our road. Now, we have unlimited possibilities to play with our central area of the image and tried to attract our viewers attention to this part. We can further boost the white points, making our highlights pop a bit more. Also, we shouldn't forget to introduce more feathering, so we cannot easily notice where our radial filter in inserted. We can increase the radial filter by clicking and dragging any of the four squares along the line. Now, let's try to military service in more detail. And we can reduce it by clicking and dragging the middle and lawyers little using Dehaze slider brought back some of our colors. Our image colors appear more saturated. Even though we never touched Vibrance and Saturation slider. Now to further close down our image, we can add one more graduated filter from the bottom of the frame. We will reduce exposure by, let's say, minus 0.3. And click and drag from the bottom right of our screen, we will pull down the filter and make it look more natural. Now, let's boost up our road further by adding some adjustment brush filter, double pressing the effect line to reset the settings. And let's try introducing some dehaze on our road. This will make it pop a bit more from the frame and it will draw attention of our viewer to it straightaway. So now we are simply painting over our road and adding our chosen effect. If we are not satisfied how it looks, we can hold alt or option on our keyboard and simply erase or further feather out our effect. After that, we can always press O on our keyboard to see the overlay where we were painting. Now we can easily correct and make our effect more precise. We press on our keyboard one more time to hide the overlay view. Now we can further change our settings and achieve the desired effect. I'm making these wrote pop up a bit more. We can do this by increasing the white points. This will make the highlights in our road appear more bright, so our role will stand up a bit more in general, we can achieve the same effect by adding one more radial filter and increasing the white points in the center of our frame. Let's save. We will add 15 on our white points and clicking and dragging in the middle of the frame. Also, we will increase the feathering so we cannot notice the effect. Now let's revisit our basic settings and try to see our black and white points one more time. So we are holding Alt or Option on our keyboard and pulling our black sliders along the bar. We are pulling the slider to the left to decrease our black levels in the image. Now let's try adding some vibrance and saturation in our image. We will add, let's say 12 or vibrance and two for the saturation. While we're editing, we can always reset the settings to track the before and after a measure we're on the right track. So let's do this. Clicking on Reset button resets all the edits. We can see that we made a huge change in our image and it's looking much better. We undo the resetting and continue editing. This is the midday image, but we can still introduce some light here, making it look as the sound was coming from this direction. We can do this by adding one more radial filter. As always, we firstly reset settings and we will increase the exposure a bit and insert one radial filter here. We will increase our feathering and make the filter smaller. If we want to introduce additional light and make it look like the sun was coming from there. We can always reduce the dehaze bar. This will introduce some haze in our image and create the effect similar to the light coming from this side. To make it more realistic, we can make this part of the image a little bit warmer. This will create the effect light, the sunlight is coming from there, from behind the clouds. Finally, we can make use of the calibration to edit our three primary colors in the image. As we now have sky in our image, let's try playing with the blue primary channel and tried to change how our blue channel appears in the image. We can try to pull the blue color to the left in the direction of the cyan. This made changes in our sky, also everywhere where the blue color is present. Similarly, we can edit the green color. As always, I will recommend playing with the calibration as it can make our image look unique. We can try editing our red primary channel, which will further enhance the contrast between the rice fields and the yellow parts in our image. It is always good to make drastic changes to get feeling what will effect due to our image. We see that we can change the look of our image completely just by playing with the red primary color. Pulling our reds to the right makes the image more yellow. And pulling it to the left adds a completely different feeling to our image. Let's keep it around minus 20 to compare the changes with and without calibration, we can simply click to turn off the custom calibration. We see that we reduce the yellowness in our image, making the scene look more contrasty. I will just add one more filter to increase the contrast in our road and we're ready to compare the before and after. This is the common setting when we want to increase contrast in our scene. So we reduce the black points and increase the white points. We will click and drag on our road. And we see that we added a lot of contrast here. We will hold Alt or Option on our keyboard and pull this slider to the left to reduce the strength of our effect. Now we can check from the histogram that we have completely dark points in our image and completely white points in our image. So finally, let us compare the before and after and see how we did on this photo. So we're resetting the settings, see the before and undo to see the after. So this was the full workflow of editing midday area landscape, which includes the sky. Practice makes perfect. And I encouraged you to edit as many pictures as you can to improve your workflow and make your images look better. See you in the next video. Stay tuned. 14. Section 4 Lesson 1 - Sunset and Sunrise Photography: In this section, we are going to discuss sunrise and sunset aerial photography. We are going to talk about these characteristics, pros and cons, differences between taking photos and sunrise and sunset. And we will show a full workflow of editing a sunset photo. Before we continue, just take a moment to have a look of this example images and try to imagine which one is taken at sunset and which one is taken in Sunrise. Try to guess and we will see the answer on this slide. So we have three photos taken at sunrise and five photos taken as sunset. Taking photos at this time of the day, let us capture unique colors of the sky. As the light is at lower angle, it creates a beautiful soft shadows. So we can see our well-known and famous place looks a bit different. Also, the movement of the clouds always make our scene different. So it's always exciting to take photos as sunset or sunrise. These two periods of time, by far my favorite times to take photos outside. So let's analyze and compare taking photos at sunrise and sunset. Sunrise is the start of the day and it has its pros and cons. It's good to take photos and sunrise because it's often less crowded, because less people tend to get up early and take photos and sunrise. Or it's less likely that travelers will walk around the city in the early morning. Also, as less people take photos and sunrise, you can create a different view of a famous place, witnessing a sunrise boost up your creativity is just a beautiful experience and you get inspired to take even better photos, then you would actually do in the middle of the day, no need to say the soft shadows create a beautiful and magical scene. And all photographers will say that sunrise is their favorite time to take photos. So if you've never tried, just wake up early and tried to take photos and sunrise. So let's see if you cans or negative things when taking photos in Sunrise. First, you need to wake up really early, which is hard for some people. Also, you want to be at your destination at the very moment of sun rising. So it means that often you need to travel to the spot you want to take photos at during the night. Sometimes it can be scary, sometimes it can be unpleasant. But trust me, every time it's rewarding. Also sunrise last really short amount of time. You need to be there at the right time. You need to be ready. And you don't have a lot of time to experiment. You just need to go for it and try your best to capture beautiful images. So now let's compare sunset versus sunrise. Good thing about capturing images and sunset is that it's easy to access or it's easy to be at the place we want to be at sunset just because we are always outside at that time, especially when we are traveling. Also, this led us to plan our location easier. If you want to take photo a sunset, we can use the midday to scout for locations. We can find the perfect spot and when the sun goes down we will be ready. In contrast, we want to take photo for Sunrise. We need to plan one day ahead, one day before we need to know where we will go and we need to know the position of the sun before coming to the location. Additionally, sunset lasts longer and the sky is beautiful for a longer amount of time. So we have more time to plan our shot and to execute. So the negative things about capturing images and sounds, that is that popular places get crowded. This is very important, especially when taking photos with a drone. When you're flying a drone, you want to be as isolated as possible from other people. You don't want to start your flight in the crowd because it can upset some people, or in some places it might be considered unsafe. So sunrise is definitely a better time for taking photos with a drone. Also, as many photographers take photos in sunset, this outputs too many similar photos of the same place. So if you want to create more unique photos, I recommend you going out for Sunrise. As always, let's discuss the most common issues to be fixed while editing sunset and sunrise photos. First and most obvious is this guy is easy to get overexposed, especially when we have a dynamic scene of a landscape we want to capture and the sun rising or setting in our frame. This will make our sky and the sun much more exposed in our main subject. So we need to balance this out. It's always recommended to capture HDR or to use auto exposure bracketing when taking photos and sunset and sunrise. Also, we often have a wrong color temperature. Our white balance will be too much on the cold or on the warm side, and we need to fix this. As often the case when taking photos with a drone, our photos can be under saturated and hazy, and this happens especially in sunrise. Sunrise is often foggy in many parts of the world, so we need to consider this when editing our photos. Finally, we often have low contrast and undefined main subject due to the insufficient lighting which can happen in the sunrise or sunset, or if we have cloudy and bed, whether this will make our main subject looking flat and undefined. Now let's see some before and after examples. This is a photo of her church in Reykjavik, Iceland. Let's analyze this photo quickly and see what is wrong with it. What we need to fix. First, we see that sky is overexposed. Also, we don't have colors in the sky. Second, we see that the houses are in the shadow. There are underexposed and they don't have any saturation or contrast. So we need to fix this to make our photo attract more interest. Also, the horizon is a little bit tilted, so we need to rotate the photo a bit and make the straight up. Finally, overall, we have called color temperature and our main subject is underexposed, in this case, our main site, that is the church here, and it's backlit, meaning that the sun is behind it. So we need to correct this and make our main subject pop up from the frame a bit. So let's see the before and the after. This is the photo of sunrise and the before and after. And finally, this photo is taken at a beautiful winter sunset in Iceland, and this is a before and after. Up next, let us see the full editing workflow of a sunset aerial photo in Lightroom and what we can do to make our images look better. So stay tuned and see you in the next video. 15. Section 4 Lesson 2 - Sunset Photo Editing Workflow: In this lecture, we are going to do a full edit workflow of an aerial sunset photo. We will try to make this row image to look something like this. So let's start editing. As you can see here, this is an HDR, which I already combined in Lightroom using the merged HDR option, which was explained in the first part of the course, the DNG file is provided so you can follow along and we can do this editing together. So let's start. In the previous lecture, we analyze this photo and we saw that our skies a bit overexposed, that the image is still data bits. And our main subject is in the shadow. Our main subject is backlit, meaning that the sun is behind it. So we need to recover this area and make it pop up a bit more. So let's start editing. Usually when you take photos by a drone or a camera, usual make sure that your horizon is leveled up so we can simply rotate this image a bit until we are happy with the horizon leveling. Now it looks much better. Let us start with the simple edits. Lowering down the highlights to recover sky. Boosting up our shadows a bit to reveal our main subject. And now by holding Alt or Option on our keyboard and moving whites and blacks, we can see our absolute white and absolute black points. So let's see, are we getting something overexposed by holding Alt or Option and moving the white slider to the right. Okay? So as expected, we see that when we moved our slider, our sky is first to get overexposed. So we don't want to use these sliders. This should be enough. And now let's try to move our black sliders to the left a bit. Okay, and now we are starting to get some 100% black points in our photo. This concludes the basic edits, and now we can move on to our dehaze. This photo was taken from a small distance from our main subject. So we don't have a lot of haze. Still using the Dehaze slider will pump up our saturation a bit and make our image appear more contrasty. So we can try to introduce behaving by let's say 15. Also, we can try to use a bit contrast, but we shouldn't make our photo to contrast it. You can try by yourself and see what's happening. If we increase the contrast too much, we see that the sky becomes too bright and our shadows become too dark. Also, we lose a lot of information in the sky. So we can find some other way to increase the contrast. And we should keep our Contrast slider low for the start. We can always go back and change any of these settings. Now let's use a bit of tone curves. We can do the standard mild S curve. Also in this image, we can play with the separate channels. This edit is a bit more challenging than the others because we have backlit main subject and it's a sunset photo. Let's see what happens. If we try to add up red in our photo. We see that the moving reds, red curve up. We add reds into the desired area. And if we want to add up red in the shadows, we can simply pull this up. If we want to add red in the highlights, we can pull this one up. Now we get a little bit more of the sunset feeling. We can correct the white balance also by increasing the color temperature are built. Now we see that we ended up some warmed in our main subject, which was a little bit cooler because it was in the shadow. To correct this, Let's try to decrease the exposure of our Skype by using the graduated filter. We will start by decreasing the exposure by, let's say 0.4. We just click and drag from the top to add one graduated filter. Now we can do all kinds of editing here. We can reduce the highlights to recover the sky. And as this is an HDR, we see that we still have a lot of information in the sky, even though it's a bit more exposed. But we didn't lose any information because we capture three different exposures of the same shot. Afterwards, I will add one more graduated filter to decrease the white balance of the top of our image. This will make our image appear somehow closed from the top and further enhance our sunset. So we can reduce the color temperature here and introduce some the hazing. If this is a bit too much, we can always go back. And we can add one more from the top-left. Even though we increase the color temperature, I feel that this sunset scene can still be a bit more warmer. So let's add one radial filter and increase the color temperature a bit. Now we can add our radial filter at where the sun is and introduce some warmer colors in the sky. Now we see that we are facing one problem which is easily solved. We see that our shadow become warmer too. This doesn't seem realistic. So we can fix this by using the range mask. We can pull the range from left to the right, telling Lightroom that we do not want to apply the radial filter in the shadows, but apply it only in the highlights. We could use split toning to achieve the same effect. By the split toning would work in the whole photo. So now let's try to edit locally only the sky. We can increase feathering a bit to make our effect look more natural. And pulled the range all the way to the right. By pressing on our keyboard, we can see the overlay and we see that as we are pulling it to the right, our filter doesn't apply to the church anymore. We can cancel the overlay by pressing 0 one more time. And we see that we added some worked in the subset. While we're there, we can add one more radial filter and increase the exposure of our houses. It's always good to add brightness from the source of the light. This will make our edit it look more natural. That's why we will increase the shadows and maybe exposure a bit and pull it from the area where the sun comes from. We introduce more feathering pool are filtered down and we can tilt it a bit. This will create the effect lightest light is coming directly from the sun. Oh, okay. And now we see that our houses pop up a bit more. We can also locally added the houses by using the brush tool. Our goal is to make our houses pop up a bit more. So we will increase the exposure a bit, add some contrast and some the hazing. Now we can do something similar to dodging and burning. We will just add light, we will not take light away. We can reduce flow to around 60 percent, so our effects will be weaker. Also, we can federate a bit to make it look more natural. And now we can simply click and add light in certain areas of the image. We see that our effect doesn't make a big change. As always, we can add effect by holding Alt or Option and dragging the slider to the right. To see the before and after, we can simply cancel out this effect and see that we added some light to the houses, making them appear more contrast. We can add some more exposure as we set our brush flow to only 65. This means that our effect will not be so strong as the number says. Now it's time to deal with our main subject in the photo with this beautiful church. Let's try to light it up a bit and attract more attention to it as finally, it's our main subject. We can do this by still using our adjustment brush. Let's click on New to add new brush. And if we can keep the same settings as here, just now, I've increased trade-offs are bit more. Let's try painting in some light here and make our church pop a bit more. To make sure that we didn't painted outside. We can press O on our keyboard. And by holding alter option, we will erase the extra brush we introduced. So far so good. We can press O to hide the overlay and continue painting in. Now we can reduce black points a bit to increase the contrast and make our shadows a bit darker because still the church was in the shade and we don't want to make it look too artificial. Now let's show one more trick in Lightroom, how we can quickly do dodging and burning by only using the exposure slider. We will set exposure to, let's say, plus 0.6. As simply paint over our subject. Now, we just added up light in the whole area. We can create the effect similar to dodging and burning by using the range mask. We use luminance and narrow down our range. Now, our brush will affect only certain areas of the image. If we move the slider to the left, it will affect only the shadows. If we move slider to the right, it will affect only in the bright points. By keeping it somewhere in the middle, we see that we introduce a similar effect to dodging and burning. Now, as our host sin is a bit more exposed, we can try to lower down the exposure a bit. Let's say minus 0.1. And we can revisit the basic edits. One more thing to be done, as we were lowering down the highlights here, we can try to add some light in the central part of the frame. We can do this by using the radial filter and increasing the white points. Now the central area of our image is a bit more exposed. One more thing I can show you here by using all on our keyboard, we can see the overlay. We can increase feathering to make our effect be applied more graduates. Let's move it up on purpose and we see that it affects the sky. Also, we can use the Brush tool, hold Alt or Option on our keyboard, and simply delete this radial filter. The areas we paint on. We'll delete the effect. If we want to paint in, we simply click on the brush where we want to increase the exposure. So we can add the effect here and undo just to show what we can do with the brush tool inside the graduated or radial filter K. Now, I would like to lower down the exposure in the sky a bit more to close down our frame. And let's go to the calibration tab to see what is going on with our colors. Now our photo is properly exposed and I'm satisfied with the appearance. Just so far, we didn't do much on the color adjustment. So let's use calibration tab and we can move the blue's a little bit to the left. We see that this make a big change in our sky and I'm more satisfied with this block. Now we can increase the saturation of our black channel, which will pop up our sky given further. After the blue channel, let's see our red primary channel. We can edit the color of the sky a bit by pulling the red slider to the left, toward the right, we can create a completely different look as always. So it's according to your preferences. Do you like the sunset to be more orange, more yellow, or more red? We can achieve this by pulling the rest slider. Let's try to make it a bit more orange and add saturation to the red channel. Okay, now we popped up our sunset even further. I notice a small presence of noise here. We can edit this by introducing the sharpening and noise reduction. With so far we haven't introduced sharpening into our image. Let's choose the amount. Let's say 36. That's mask it out by pulling the masking slider and holding Alt or Option on our keyboard. So we will apply the sharpening only to the areas which are painted in white. Now let's see our noise. We see that we have noise in the sky, and let's use most reduction to reduce it a bit. One handy trick in Lightroom as noises, the most noticeable in the areas of the photo which are single colored as the sky. In this case, we can simply use noise reduction with any of the adjustment filters. We can introduce noise reduction with the adjustment brush. Let's reset the effect by double-clicking here and move the noise slider to the right. Now the areas where we paint on will be noise reduced locally. This is especially handy when dealing withdrawn photos. As as mentioned, their sensors is typically smaller than in the digital camera, so it's easy to introduce a bit of noise. We can do this until we are satisfied. We can do the same by introducing the Graduated Filter, choosing the amount of noise reduction. We can pull the slider from the right and from the left. So we introduced local noise reduction into our sky. Now I'm satisfied how this photo looks to track our progress, we can always reset the settings and see the before and the after. We can increase the influence of the Sun here. A nice way to show light flow through our photo is to use Dehaze slider. We can use it to add haze in the area which are the most affected by the sunlight. Of course, this is too much, but we will reduce the effect truss. Now. We press O on our keyboard to cancel out the overlay and lower down to less than minus 5. Candy trick is to duplicate this effect. Just make it a bit smaller. Now we have two areas of the photo which we are introducing haze to. Now we are introducing the light flow through our photo, which make it more interesting and appealing. In my opinion. As always, editing a photo is a matter of personal choice. Finally, I will introduce vibrance and saturation a bit. To pop up our photo a bit more, we can add one more interesting effect. And this is to increase the exposure of the road. It's always good to have a line and patterns in our image and this will make our photo looks more interesting. We can increase exposure and shadows and simply paint over our road. By holding Alt or option, we can delete L, we can reduce the exposure to, let say, 0.5. And now we added up some light into our road. By doing so, I will conclude the edit of the sunset photo. I hope you enjoy it and that you hadn't applied a similar techniques and edit the sunset according to your style. Finally, we can one more, compare the before and after and see whether we are satisfied. The image is looking great, and I hope you like this edit. Practice makes it perfect. So keep editing your photos and this is the best way to find your own style and to improve your skills. See you in the next video. Stay tuned. 16. Section 5 - Lesson 1 - Introduction to Night Aerial Photography: In this section, we are going to discuss night aerial photography. We'll discuss how to capture and edit a great aerial photo and how to avoid the most common problems and difficulties which occur during the process. So let's get started. First, let us see what are the common problems in taking photos at night due to the load brightness, we have high presence of noise as drones often have a small sensor. It is not so capable when it comes to night photography. So we need to make sure that we are not troubling our sensor too much. In regards to our photos. We also have unexposed shadows in the image, overexposed highlights and most commonly, lack of sharpness. This can happen due to the two long exposure and our drone moving between or drone can simply miss the focus when it comes to low-light night photography. Let's see how we can fix these issues. First, we can take multiple exposures of the same scene and blend them together. As noise is a random variable, blending multiple exposures of the same image will remove the noise. So the noise appear in random places and our sin is always the same. That's one way to eliminate or reduce the amount of noise. Also, we can use noise reduction and sharpening and post-processing to have more light in our photo, it's always recommended to fly just after sunset. We will have more light in our scene will be brighter. We can always make it look like it was night during the editing. Finally, we should always use the lowest ISO setting possible. This will ensure that our drone introduced the least amount of noise throughout the process. This is an example of good and natural looking aerial photo taken at night. And before we go out and actually fly the drone, there are some things to consider. In many countries it is illegal to fly a drone after sunset. It's illegal to fly at night. So before taking off, always consider the local laws. Also to make sure that we get the best results. It is not recommended to fly drone when it's windy, although during the day it's not a big problem during the night. If our drone is moving even a little bit, our pictures will get blurry because the exposure time is longer. So to repeat, the best time if we want to capture night photos is to fly it just after the sunset, just in the very moment when the city lights turn on. These are some examples of before and after in editing night photos, I should mention that all of these images are exposed properly. So the difference will be not so big. We just need to make sure to emphasize our main subject and make our scene overall more uniform exposed. When it comes to night photo editing, we can always play with the colors in the city lies, as is the case here. So we make the environment more blue, so our subjects stands out more. So we can see that all of these photos were taken properly. If we have the right exposure, then we can make our image be usable when taken at night. If we underexposed our night photo too much and try to brighten it up in Lightroom, we will face difficulties as the sensor is not so capable. That's why this example are not so dramatic, but their goal is to show the best practices and how to avoid having extremely noisy images. So up next, let us edit one night photo together and discuss about things which are good to consider during the process. Stay tuned and see you in the next lecture. 17. Section 5 Lesson 2 - Night Aerial Photo Editing Workflow: In this lecture, we will do a full editing workflow of a night aerial photo together. So let's get started. I have imported some night photos from the beautiful city of grilling in China. For the purpose of demonstrating an editing workflow, are chosen to edit this image. Here. As stated before, we see that the image has a lot of noise. It is taken at ISO 915, and it can be expected that the imagery contain a lot of noise. And the good thing is that the image is sharp and the noise can be treated in post-processing. Before we start, let me show a quick tip how we can eliminate some noise before we even start editing. This photo was taken with auto exposure bracketing. So we have three exposures of the same image. We can do as we did before. Select all three of them. We can mark them with, let's say number 6 to let us know that these three images are the same. Press, right-click, Photo Merge, merged HDR. Unlike with editing landscapes now it's not our main concern to contain the high dynamic range in the image. Once we want to do now, is to eliminate noise by combining the tree exposures as our main subject will stay the same and the noise is random variable will be reduced. We can do this by turning of the day ghosting. If we use the ghosting as we did when we combine datetime HDR, we see that the great amount of image is different. This is due to the movement in water flow and also due to the noise. So to eliminate noise, we will just blend the tree exposures together without using the D ghosting. This is kind of experiment and I recommend you to track and compare by herself. Did this technique give a good result on your image? Now we have our HDR. To make difference. I will label HDR as green. Now let us compare and make sure that this process gave the desired results. We see that this exporters similar to the first one. We hold Control or Command key on our keyboard, select both of them and press C on our keyboard to go into the compare mode. Okay, now both exposures are loaded. We see that our HDR is here and our original exposure is on the right side. To observe the noise, we will see how the sky looks. Now. We can see that the grains here are much smaller compared to the image on the right. We can confirm this by zooming in and let's say 321. We see that the noise on the left is much less noticeable than the noise on the right. So we did a good thing by blending these HDR. One thing to consider is did we keep the sharpness? We see that the photo on the left is a little bit less sharp than the photo on the right. But we sacrifice some sharpness to eliminate some noise, but we will not worry about sharpening now because we can fix it in post. A good start to have imaged with less noise before start editing. Now we press G on our keyboard to go back. And let's start editing this HDR. We press D on our keyboard to enter the develop mode and start editing. Now it's not in our interest to keep the white background here. And we can change it by pressing the right-click and choosing any of the colors for the background. We can notice that the horizon is a little bit tilted to the right. We can fix this by pressing R on our keyboard, enter the crop mode and simply rotate the image to the left. Okay, Now it looks a little bit better. We can see that our exposure is looking good. We don't have a lot of areas in the image which are completely dark. And we don't have a lot of areas in the image which are completely white. Let us start by pulling out the shadows. We see that noise comes to pop up here. So we will lower down the shadows a bit and track our white and black points again. So we hold Alt or Option on our keyboard, press the white slider and move it to the right. Okay, We see that some areas are overexposed and they are 100% white. But we cannot avoid this when we take the photo at night, then we have all the shiny city lights. We can reduce the highlights a bit, which will make our bright spots less exposed. Now to compensate this, we can increase the exposure. We can notice that our image started to change. Let's see our black levels again by holding Alt or Option and moving the black slider to the left, we see that our river is the darkest point in the photo. And by pulling the blast to the left, this area start to become 100% black. Now we can go forward and use the curves adjustment. I wouldn't overdo the curves. Let's just increase the general exposure by pulling the mid-tones to top. We will not add contrast here as the image looks contrast the already, because of the city lights. Let us do some sharpening and noise reduction as this is very important. In this case, k. We zoom in on the photo and we see that even we added HDR, it still has a lot of noise which shows up after increasing the exposure. Let us try to fix this. Let us first use noise reduction to our level, or let's say 40. We see that we eliminate noise to a great extent, but we are sacrificing sharpness. So we can introduce some sharpening to amount of, let's say 56 to mask out and sharpen out only the edges. We will use masking. As always, we hold Alt or Option on our keyboard, move the Masking slider to the right and choose the value which we are satisfied. And we don't introduce sharpening everywhere. We just want to sharpen out the address. Let's say 80 looks like a good option. Okay, now we can compare with and without sharpening to see the difference, we see that we reduce a lot of noise and we made sure that our photo is still sharp and usable as the noise is most present in the sky, we can reduce it locally. We can introduce one graduated filter. Reset the effect by double-clicking on the effect label and making our filter from top down. Okay. Now we're affecting our sky and we can use the noise slider to reduce noise locally only in the sky. We don't need to worry about sharpness here because sky at nighttime, it doesn't have any details. We can do the same from the bottom left corner. We press New to add one more graduated filter, increase the amount of noise reduction and just pull from down left corner to the other. Okay, this will reduce noise which is present in our river area. Now, let us try to pop up our main subject a little bit more is this beautiful orange pagoda. We can add one radial filter, reset the effect and increased exposure to draw attention to our main subject. We will use more feathering to blend out the effect. And this now's reveals our main subjects more. We can further increase the local exposure of our main subject and reduce the global exposure of our image. We can do this by coming back to our basic settings. Now let us take care of the bridge area as it looks a little bit overexposed and not well-defined. Let us draw more attention to it by using our contrast and dehaze sliders. So we can increase contrast by, let's say around 28. Use the dehaze and simply paint over our bridge. It doesn't make a drastic change immediately. But by doing so, we can make our bridge looking sharper and somehow more blended into the image. In this case, the bridge looks a little bit different than the rest of the photo, as it has really strong lies brightening up. Let us see our highlights and shadows now, it's still similar situation. We can try to reduce our white points a bit. Then continue with the edit. We can try to lower the exposure of the sky and of this bottom left corner. So it will look more like a night scene. So we can reduce the exposure by a little and pull from the top-down. We can do the same from the bottom left corner. Let us now introduce Sunday hazing to the main area of our image. Night Lights and not so capable sensor of our drone made our image not to look so clear. So we can introduce some D hazing density, simply make a radial filter in the central area of the frame. We can increase the amount of dehaze. And we see that our image loads more contrasty and it looks somehow more clear. We can further increase the shadows to reveal details in the central area of our frame. Now we can locally reduce exposure of our bridge because it's the brightest area in our photo. Double-click on the effects to reset our effect. We lower down the highlights and simply paint in our adjustments. We see that our bridge now become equally exposed as the rest of the image. We can do the same with our city lights here, we can add one more brush adjustment layer, reduce highlights by a bit and paid into this really bright advertising panel. Now let's try to make our PackBot that pop up even a bit more. We add new adjustment brush layer and apply dehaze to our 50. We can play around with this effects. And we see that our pagodas tend up a bit more. Now throughout the process, let us compare the before and after to make sure that we are doing a good job. Then we see that our photo looks much more natural. Now, let us use the split toning and tried to introduce different colors into our shadows and highlights. We can try using a shade of blue into our shadows. The blue was already there, but by using split toning, we can control the appearance we want to achieve. It's time to play with the calibration settings. Now, as always in photo editing, there is no clear right and wrong. So you can do things according to your preferences and according to your visual style, I will try changing the blue and red channels a bit as they can change mood in our photo. So let us try pulling the blue slider to the left. We can see that in our scene looks more contrast in now. And personally, I liked this shade of blue channel more than the original one. We can try to do the same with the red channel. And blue and red channel are usually well meshed in the opposite directions. So if we move the blue channel to the left, we can first try moving red channel to the right a bit. Now I can say that I'm satisfied how this image looks. Let us compare the before and after one more time. So maybe we can conclude this edit. I said maybe on purpose because we can edit any image infinite amount of time. It's our decision when we will say, okay, this is enough. I'm satisfied how this image looks. Now, after I'm actually satisfy how this image looks, I will conclude this lesson. And what let us compare the before and after one more time. So we see that we change the mood in our image. We make our main subject pop on bit more and overall, our image looks more appealing in this shape. Hope you enjoyed this lesson as editing night photo was the last group of images I plan to show you in this course. Now, we made a circle and display our editing workflows. Bohr view most typical scenarios intaking image by a drone. With this skill set, I hope that you can apply this workflows in editing your photos and you can achieve great results. Thanks for watching.