Advanced iPhone Photo Editing in Snapseed, Lightroom, and Darkroom | Ben Nielsen | Skillshare

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Advanced iPhone Photo Editing in Snapseed, Lightroom, and Darkroom

teacher avatar Ben Nielsen, Good design is the beginning of learning

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

19 Lessons (57m)
    • 1. Introduction

      1:07
    • 2. Project

      0:58
    • 3. Photo Editing Apps

      5:12
    • 4. Cropping in Snapseed

      3:09
    • 5. Cropping in Lightroom

      1:50
    • 6. Cropping in Darkroom

      2:31
    • 7. Adjust Perspective

      2:39
    • 8. Curves Tool in Snapseed

      4:19
    • 9. Curves Tool in Lightroom

      2:17
    • 10. Curves Tool in Darkroom

      2:27
    • 11. Color Curves in Snapseed

      5:12
    • 12. Color Curves in Lightroom

      2:36
    • 13. Color Curves in Darkroom

      1:59
    • 14. Color Mix in Lightroom

      4:56
    • 15. Color Mix in Darkroom

      5:54
    • 16. Extra Snapseed Example

      2:54
    • 17. Extra Lightroom Example

      3:03
    • 18. Extra Darkroom Example

      3:02
    • 19. Wrap Up

      1:00
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About This Class

Are you trying to up your iPhone photography game? In this class we will be diving into some advanced photo editing techniques to use on your iPhone. We will explore these techniques through three popular apps: Snapseed, Lightroom, and Darkroom. You can use one of these, all three, or a different app that you choose. 

We will look at the tools professional photographers use to get stunning images. Topics will include:

  • How and why to crop a photo
  • How to adjust the perspective on ultra wide angle photos
  • Adjusting lighting using the curve tool
  • Adjusting color balance using the color curve tools
  • Using the the color mix tool
  • Exporting photos

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Meet Your Teacher

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Ben Nielsen

Good design is the beginning of learning

Teacher

I am passionate about good design and good teaching. I believe that anyone can learn simple design principles and tools that can help them create content that is both beautiful and functional.

 

Background: I am a media designer and librarian. My masters degree is in instructional design with an emphasis on informal learning.

 

Motto: Good design is the beginning of learning.

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Transcripts

1. Introduction: Hi, and welcome to this course on Advanced photo editing on the iPhone. My name is Ben Nielsen and I will be your instructor for this course. In a previous course, we talked about using the stock photos app that comes native on your iPhone to edit photos. And you can do a time with that app and really get great photos Arabic. But if you want to take your photo editing to the next level, you really need to step outside that app into something a little bit more advanced. And that is what this course is for. We're going to learn how to do advanced photo editing techniques right on your iPhone. We'll look at a few different apps that can help us do this. There'll be both free and paid apps. So there's something here for everyone no matter what your budget is. And there aren't any prereq for this course, although I do have a course on iPhone photography and of course on editing the stock photos app, which might be helpful to you as well. But you don't need to have taken those courses in order to take this course. So let's go ahead and get started. In the next video, we'll talk about the project for this course. 2. Project: The project for this course is to do invest at it's on at least three photos. You want to use some of the advanced editing techniques that we talked about in this course. Things like using curves are working specifically with colors, were doing cropping and prospective correction. They don't want to upload your project into the project Gallery for this course so that we can all see and learn together. When you upload your project, please be sure to include both the before and the after photos so that we can see how your edits changed the photo and also write a short description explaining what attitude did and why you chose to do them. I'm very excited to see your projects and you will learn better if you actually follow along and do the things that we're talking about. So please do take the time to complete the project and upload it to this course. In the next video, we're going to talk about a few apps that you can use throughout this course. 3. Photo Editing Apps: There are literally tons of photo apps for the iPhone. So many and far more than I can ever mentioned in this course. And formulating could actually ever try out. So if you have an app that you love, feel free to use that app will just be talking about concepts in this course, but I'll be demoing in three apps, specifically. Three apps that I think are really useful and very popular and can do a lot of the advanced functionality that we need out of a photo editing app for iPhone, I'm going to be using the iPhone 11 probe, but it really doesn't matter what phone you're using that will determine what kinds of pictures you can take with it that you don't necessarily have to have even shot these pictures with your phone. You could have shot them with a camera or had somebody else shoot them at their phone and just bring them onto your phone, edit them. That's really what matters. And you can use these apps on any iPhone. It doesn't have to be a pro or even one of the newest models. So the first app that I want to talk about is called snaps. He'd, snap seed is a really good app that's been around on the iPhone for awhile. And several years ago they were bought by Google. And like many of Google's products, snap seed is free and so ADD a great option to get into advanced photo editing if you don't want to put out any money to start out with. One of the drawbacks to snap SSI for me is that it doesn't have any controls for apples portrait mode. So if you are using a phone that can take portrait photos, snaps, he doesn't have any options to control those. So you'll need to make those adjustments to things like your F stop to control your blurred in the native app. If you're going to use snaps, eat the other thing that kinda hold snaps it back a little base that it doesn't have a specific tool for adjusting colors on the color spectrum, may has tools for dealing with temperature and white balance. But as far as working on the color spectrum, for example, if you want to enqueue yellows and shift those towards greens, it doesn't really have a tool that can do that like some other apps. But remember that this app is free. And so for a free apps, apps is really one of the best options that is out there. The next step I want to talk about it, Adobe's editor, and it really is probably the most popular. And Lightroom as a set of applications across desktop and mobile is probably the most popular photo editor in the world. And it really is quite powerful. Even though Lightroom on mobile does lack a lot of the very advanced features that are found in Lightroom classic on the desktop. But because it is from Adobe, There is a subscription involved in getting all of the features. Now you can download it for free and use a free Adobe account to sign in. And then you can edit your photos for free, but you can't access all of the features that are there, including some advanced features, things like adjusting the perspective on photos like snap seed. It also doesn't have any controls for dealing with the portrait mode on your iPhone. So again, you'd have to edit anything about portrait mode in your iPhone's native camera app before bringing me into Lightroom, their thing they really don't like about them is how it handles photo storage and import. And so it's just a little bit clunky because what it really wants is for you to be using all of the Creative Cloud Storage. And so that's where it's focuses. And if you're not doing that, it can be a little bit difficult. If you already have an Adobe Creative Cloud subscription, then by all means, go ahead and use Lightroom on the iPhone because it will be familiar to you if you're used to using on desktop. And it will be a great experience and you will have to pay anything extra for it. If you're already paying for that subscription. If you don't already pay for Adobe's Creative Cloud, I would not recommend doing it just in order to use light room on your phone. The free options on Lightroom are actually quite good. And so there's a reason, I think, to go ahead and make that extra purchase just to use it as well as there are other applications that you can do that will be less expensive than subscribing to the Creative Cloud. The third app that I want to talk about and my personal favorite currently is darkroom. And darkroom is a very robust editor that was built for mobile first before it was built for desktop. And so it kind of comes at it from a different perspective than Lightroom does. Darkroom has a free version as well to get you started, but you can't use most of the advanced features that we'll need to use in this course. Things like curves and working with color. And the available if you pay, you can experiment with them in the free version that you can't export them for your project unless you pay for it. Darkroom has a subscription model as well, which is less expensive than libraries, but still subscription, so I don't love it. But the nice thing about darkroom is they also offer a onetime purchase that's more expensive, but you pay for it once and you unlock all the features and you have them forever. And that's what I would recommend if you're looking into really getting into mobile phone editing is a little pricey at $50, but remember you don't ever have to pay for that subscription again. And so that's the route that I would recommend going. I'll be showcasing all three of these apps throughout it. So if you want to watch some of the videos first and then decide the route that you wanna take or download all the apps and use their free versions to start out with. Be a great way for you to determine what you want to use. Again, there might be a photo application that I'm not even aware of that you know, that you love and you can definitely go ahead and use that. The important thing is you need to be able to do things like just the curves are levels. One, be able to do Perspective adjustments. You want to be able to adjust colors. And if you want to use multiple applications like I do, that's fine as well. Feel free to jump from one to the other as you experiment with different things to develop your own style in editing your photos. If you have questions about these apps or other apps, feel free to drop those in the discussion section of this course. I'd be happy to do my best to answer those for you. In the next video, we're going to go ahead and get started by talking about propping your photos. 4. Cropping in Snapseed: The first skill we're going to talk about is cropping. Now, cropping is not necessarily an advanced skill because copying is found on almost every single iPhone photo app there is. But it is an important one to understand right now we are in snap seed. We're gonna go ahead and open up a photo and look at the crop tools that we have available to us and why we might want to crop a photo. Alright, so I'm here in my favorites and I'm gonna go ahead and I'm just going to choose this one on the far left of the waterfall. Now within snap seed, we need to get to our cropping tool. We're gonna go ahead and hit the edit button, which has the pencil on the right, and then choose crop. As we look at this photo, we're going to say, Well, this could have been composed better, right? When I shot this, I was just walking down this path looking at this waterfall. And they really didn't take a lot of time to compose this picture. And that's a good reason to crop a photo because maybe it wasn't composed correctly, or maybe you really want to zoom in on that photo and you know that using the digital zoom on iPhone is just like cropping anyway. So you might as well do the cropping in post so that you at least have the option to reframe it if you want to. But remember that iPhone photos are not super high megapixels to begin with. And so you don't have a ton of pixels to work with. What makes iPhone photos look really good. The computational technology that goes into them when they are taken. And so when you crop them, they can still get pixelated, even if they look really good. So cropping them too far can be a problem. But depending on what you're going to use them for, if you aren't planning to print them out. If you're mostly just playing to share them on Instagram or something like that. You can crop in quite a ways and still be okay. So let's go ahead and we will crop this and we'll just look at why we might wanna do that. So there's a lot of trail in the foreground here that I don't necessarily need because I want the focus of this picture to be on the waterfall and there's a lot of sky above it that I don't necessarily need either. So let's go ahead and we will crop this guy in. We're just going to crop it down. You can see if I hit on this little square, you can see that I can choose the aspect ratio. I kept it to original so that it keeps the original aspect ratio that it was taken out. But you could choose like a square or some other aspect ratio if you wanted. There's quite a few here to choose from. Or if you don't want to be constrained to a certain aspect ratio, you can choose free over on the left. Okay, so we're just going to crop this down. And what I'm gonna do is try to use the rule of thirds here so that the waterfall sits exactly on the rule of thirds. And I've cropped out some of the sky. We don't need so much of that and a little bit of the road, we don't need as much of that, but we want the road to lead up into the waterfall as a leading line. So we're just reformatting this to look like that and we'll hit the check mark. And in all of these applications you can just hold down on the photo to see what it looked like before. And then after four and then after. And so that's the way that we would go ahead and do that crop inside of snap seat. Not too difficult, but it is important to think about, let's go ahead and switch over to light room and see how we would do this. 5. Cropping in Lightroom: So in light room, we're going to go ahead and open up a new photo just by hitting the photo plus icon. And from our favorite here we'll go ahead and we'll choose this one of us on the beach and me, my data at the beach and looking out at Lake Superior. And so let's just go ahead and crop this. Over here on the right-hand side, we're going to use the crop tool. And the crop tool has a similar icon in almost every program. So let's go ahead and see how we might want to crop this end. We have aspect ratios here, of course, and I'm gonna choose original to keep it with the original aspect ratio. And then we're going to crop in. I think I wanna get us, we're in the middle, but I wanna get us right on one of the thirds. You can see there's this little bucket that my daughter was playing with there. I really want to crop that out. That's another great reason to crop is to get rid of something. So I'm just going to go right past that bucket. And there we are, right on the third. You can also straighten out here. If the horizon line wasn't straight, we could use this little wheel on the bottom to adjust it, but it looks like this photo is really straight, so just double-tap it to reset that. I wish that bucket we're not there. We could clone that out, but the healing tools are only available in Lightroom premium if you've paid for this subscription. So we're just gonna go with that for now. So there's several different tools. You've got the straightening tool which Auto strains it, so just strain it just a little bit. And then the turning tools, which will give you 90 degree rotations. And then the flipping cool. So if you want to flip something along the x and y axis, you can do that, or I'm just gonna hit the check mark to accept those changes. Alright, now let's switch over and look at darkroom. 6. Cropping in Darkroom: Alright, so here we are in dark room. Let's go ahead and we'll choose this one from Capitol Reef. And this is a nice photo. And really I don't know that I would need to crop it except that I don't really like this pop-up trailer hanging out from the edge along with this picnic table because they're just kind of there and you can't see the whole things and it's a little bit distracting from the overall image. I don't mind if the van is there, but I might take that out as well as I crop it. Let's see here. So we'll hit the crop tool in the upper right. And you see we have a street and tool. And, and if we scroll down, we have horizontal and both vertical perspective. And then we have some grid options for what kinds of things we want. We'll keep with rule of thirds for now. And then down the bottom we have aspect ratio. So I'm going to choose as shot. So let's go ahead and see if we can crop in here and try and go right past where that pop-up tent is. And then there's this little blue tent in the corner that I think we also need to get rid of, which can go right past there. And we really need to read center of this whole thing. Those in there. And we'll keep these branches up at the top framing the cliffs. And then we'll have the van and the rooftop tent in the middle there. And then we'll hit done. And now we've corrupt that in. And I think that is actually looking a lot better. There's a lot less distraction there. The focus is on the van and the other car bean at these cliffs. And it's just a lot better looking here than it was before. So just simple crops can really make your photos less distracting. So there's three examples of how we would go ahead and crop photos in each of these different apps. And that's a really important skill to have and you always want to think through, and it's often best to do your crops first because then you know the picture that you're working with, if you drop after then you may have made adjustments based on things that were in the uncorrupt photo and they might not be relevant anymore. So it's best to just do your crops first if you can, although you can always come back and crop later if you need to. And cropping and all of these programs is non-destructive, so you could always get back if I hit the crop tool again, I can come back and get things later so it won't actually destroy those other pixels. It just hides them until we make an export, of course, at which point it will generate a new file with the new pixels that's going to have for cropping. In the next video, we'll talk a little bit about adjusting perspective. 7. Adjust Perspective: Alright, seat here to talk about perspective. We want to adjust the perspective when things are a little bit off in the photo. And this can happen a lot with newer iPhones because they have the extra wide angle lens, things can start to get a little bit warped. And this photo was taken with the wide-angle lens. We've cropped it down now. So I'm gonna go to my tools and choose perspective. And you have several different perspectives here. You have tilt, rotate, scale and free, and you can hit the little magic wand tool to just let it adjusts the perspective for you. But I don't find that that is necessarily super good at doing it. So we're gonna go ahead and come back in here again. Tighter toolbar. And then we can just pull this down. You can see Snap seat is filling in the parts of the edges that would be black as we go. And that setting is right here in the middle. There's smart, white or black, so you can fill it with white, black or smart means it's going to try to fill it in with what's there. And since these are just like leaves and rocks, it does a pretty good job of filling those in. We might want to take a look at that in just a second in the Zoom. Let's hold down in the top-right to see our before and then our after. Four and then after. I think we may have gone a little bit too far. So let's bring it back up a little. Just a really minor correction here, but it can help out with things just looking at a little bit more natural. Alright, let's go ahead and hit yes. And I'm going to zoom in on the edge here to take a look at the cloning, let it did on this side, proximate. Okay. And so does leave, so nothing obviously weird is happening. They're perspective can be done. Okay. So that was the only wide-angle Shanda group, so it's the only one I think we need to correct the perspective on, but you can correct perspective in all of the applications like we saw earlier, those tools are often found along with the crop tool. And just be aware that the perspective tool is a premium feature in light room. So if you do want to correct perspective there, you do need to be paying for Creative Cloud subscription. In the next video, we're going to go ahead and talk about the curves control. 8. Curves Tool in Snapseed: All right, next we're going to talk about curves. And curves is really where a lot of advanced photo editing happens. You can do so much from the curves, but it can't seem intimidating when you first start out, but don't worry, curves are not really intimidating. You just takes a little bit to understand them. So let's go ahead and hit Edit. And this is really where you separate Advanced photo editing tools from kind of basic photo editing tools, whether or not they have this curves control. So there's lots of tools here inside of snaps eat. But what we want is curves right up at the top. And when we get this, I'm just going to go ahead and these along the bottom here, these are kind of like filters. So you can hit different ones. We're going to go back to neutral, which just starts us out from the beginning so that we can look at the curves. And what you see here is that there's a straight line going across state grid and along the bottom is the histogram. Essentially histograms run from the very darkest parts of the image on the left, all the way to the brightest parts of the image on the right. And what you are adjusting on the curve or different levels of light within the picture. So it can seem a little confusing at first, but you can see there are two dots currently on this grid, and one on the left is the blacks. And you can see this picture is not very dark, so there are almost no blacks. And that's why that histogram along the bottom is so low on the left side and then the dot in the upper right is actually the whites. And you can see that there are not that many whites in this image either. So let's go ahead and just see what happens when we start messing with this. If we drag this dot on the left in, our image will get darker because we are increasing the number of pixels that are black. These pixels that were maybe just dark before are now turning black. If we take our one in the top right and we drag it to the left, things start to get brighter and you can see that the sky in the waterfall are starting to get blown out. If we drag this down, everything will get darker because we are making our bright parts darker the same. If we take the dot on the left and we drag it up, the whole image will start to get washed out because we're making our dark parts lighter. So that's how the histogram works. And then you can actually put other dots along here if you just tap them. And so we're going to put one right in the middle, and we're going to put one in between that and the white. That will be our bright point. The middle point is the mid tones, and then we'll make a shadow point in between our mid tones and our darks, then we can do what is commonly referred to as an S curve. So if we drag down our shadow point, try and keep it basically in line. There are image will get darker. We drag up our brights point. The bright parts will get brighter, but not quite as dramatic as what we were doing before. And this creates kind of an S contrasts curve. And if we look at our before and after, you can see there's a lot more contrast in the image now. And then something people like to do here is drag up this dot at the bottom. And that will make your darkest parts fade out a little bit. We can add a little bit more contrast by dragging down our shadows. And that can give you kind of that faded film look that's very popular with people these days. Let's go ahead and drag down our brights just a little bit. Okay, let's take a look at the before and the after. And you can see that the curves tool is very powerful in creating these types of changes to the contrast. So we've got something like an S curve gear because of the way this photo was, we're going a little bit higher blacks and coming down more in our shadows. And that's looking pretty good. That's using the curve to deal with light. And there's a lot of things you can do, play placing different points along the curve and making adjustments. But this S curve type of an adjustment is pretty easy to start out with. So that's how we would do light adjustments, will come back to this in a minute and we'll look at how to use the color adjustments on curves. But for right now we're going go ahead and jump back over to Lightroom and see how curves works there. 9. Curves Tool in Lightroom: So here we are back in light room and you can see this image does need a little bit of help. It's a little bit washed out. Let's go ahead and let's go to our curves tool, which is found under the sun. And this is where your basic adjustments are similar to what you would find in the iPhones normal Photos app. But let's go ahead and just hit the curve. You'll see we get the curve here. We are currently on the red, green, blue, which is everything which adjust the brightness of the photo. But you can see there is a red channel, a green channel, and a blue channel as well, which we'll come back to you. So let's go ahead. This should look very similar to what we saw before in snap seat. And so we're going place our points down just like we did before. And let's just go ahead and let's try and add in a little bit of contrast to this photo. By adjusting the curve, you can see how much more granular your controllers here then just by using the Contrast slider. Okay, we're going to give ourselves a little fade better before by holding down and then are after and try and make a slight adjustment here to the highlights. S curves are a good place to start, but here the highlights or just a bit too much. So we're going to need to pull them down. Everything is a little bit washed out when pull down my mid tones as well, to just bring a little bit of depth back into that photo. Now the reason it looks a little bit faded is again, because I've brought up my darks there to give it kinda that film luck. So they don't have any real black in my image. Of course, if I wanted to make things darker, I could do what we did before and just drag that down into the right and the dark parts would get darker. But I like a little bit of fading in my image. So there we go. Before and after. You can see that's making quite a bit of difference. Already. Bring down my midterms a bit more here. Okay? And like not quite a bit. Go ahead and hit down on that. We'll come back and do the colors and the next set of videos. And now we'll go take a look at darkroom. 10. Curves Tool in Darkroom: Okay, so again, similar. This is kind of washed out and we'll want to add in something. So we're going go to curves now, curves are only available in darkroom if you've paid for it. So if you're using the free version, you will be able to see curves. You'll be able to make adjustments to them, but you won't be able to export anything that has a Curves Adjustment applied to it. Just like before, we have the RGB channel, which we're in here. And you can see it's labeled blacks, mittens and highlight and even given as a percentage or there is no histogram on this curves panel to work with. So we can't really see where the distribution in our images. And then we also have the red, green, and blue channels. What I like about dark room is it does give you more information. It just you, you blacks mid tones and why it's, you know, it gives, gives you a little bit more guides as you are starting out. It's a great way to learn. It also makes things a little simpler for you by already putting the points down. So you don't have to try and guess where you're putting the point. But that does mean you have less control over each thing because you can't place a point wherever you want. You, you have these five points and that's what you've got. You can't add anymore and you can't have any less. You have to use the five-point. So it restricts you a little bit. I think that actually makes it easier to learn on then something that gives you complete freedom like the curves adjustment in light room. So let's go ahead and let's just do what we've done before. We're just going to see if we can add a little bit of contrast. So I'm going to bring my shadows down, bring up my highlights just a little over my whites, just slightly. One of the nice things in darkroom is you can actually tap on one of the columns. I'm just tapping up at the top of the blacks column. And it's actually raising those blacks by 1% each time. And so you can make really granular adjustment just by tapping, which I think is really nice way to do it. I want to lower my bright in the sky. You don't want to lose too much detail in the rocks. I'm just trying to balance that out, which is the way this image is. We really want to bring out that sunset part of the sky. We don't want to make the image look fake. We've gotta keep everything imbalance here. Okay, I think I actually like that quite a bit. In the next video, we'll start talking about the way to use the color curves to adjust the way the colors look in an image. 11. Color Curves in Snapseed: Here we are back in snaps it again and we are going to start adjusting the colored curves. And color curves are very powerful way to adjust the way that the image looks. I do want to say here, curves can seem intimidating when you first start out. But the very best thing that you can do is practice with curves and you will make some images that do not look very good and that is ok because you need to learn how the curves work before you can use them to make good-looking images. And so just practicing will be the most important thing. A lot of people will start out the open up, the curves, mess with it. It'll be like my image looks bad now, I don't want to use this anymore and they'll just stop trying with it. And that is actually the worst thing that you can do because you won't then learn. So it's very important to your learning that you continue to try to. Let's go ahead and let's get started because this does take it up to the next level as we go into the color channels. So let's hit the circle on the left, and that's going to give us our color channels. We're gonna go ahead and pop into the red channel first. And I just want you to kind of get a feel for what this is doing. Essentially, there are three color channels, and each color channel has two complimentary colors on it. So the first one is red and cyan, if I put a dot in the mid tones and I drag up, my whole image will get read because I'm pulling it towards the reds. And if I come all the way to the top, it's very, very red. Alright, let's come down. But then if I dragged, everything becomes cyan because cyan is the opposite of red when you're talking about digital color and everything becomes super cyan there. So this is where a lot of people develop their like filter loss is in these color channels because you can make very precise adjustments to the way things are happening. So let's go ahead and let's just apply a, another contrast curve to this. So we'll put down our dots and we'll play or S curve. So as I drag down, the shadows are becoming more cyan. And then when I go to the highlights and I drag them up, my highlights will become more red. And these curves can be quite powerful. So you don't need to give it a lot to start developing kind of a unique look there. And let's just see what happens with our mid tones here. Want to go too much and go this, keep the mid tones about where they were. Trembling emperor. Relax just a little there. Ring or Whites down. Let's go ahead and swap over to our green channel so you can see how this works. So green channel, very similar. It's got two complementary colors. Green is to the top and left, and magenta is to the bottom and the right. And this is a tricky slider because too much greener, too much Magenta can really make your image not look good. So you wanna be careful using this particular adjustment. Trying to lie about the same curve that we did to our red. You can see the image is getting pretty green. As we do this, let's go ahead. Try and pull these shadows back down and then will just adjust our mid tones back to magenta. And now sure, I loved the way that that is looking, but this is how you do a color contrast curve. So we'll continue on. It's always best to try and do all the channels and then see what it looks like because you don't know how they're going to balance each other out until you start seeing that. Now we've been doing a curve, but if we wanted to do what's called a linear adjustment, we could just grab the bottom left dy here and we could drag to the right and things would get yellow, which is the opposite of blue. Or we could drag up to the left and things would get blue. And that would happen in a linear way. So curves are a way to apply contrast and linear changes are a way to get rid of contrast. Let's go ahead and put our dots down and we'll add our contrast curve. Sometimes it can be really difficult to get these little dots to move around the screen. That's just the nature of working with phones. That's looking at a little bit too yellow. So we'll go ahead and move our mid tones back again. And just even that out a little bit. We had, let's look at our before and after. And you can see we now have a ton of contrast in this photo because not only did we make contrast in the light using our regular RGB curve here. But we also add a contrast in each of our color channels. So now we have contrasting colors and contrast of light. And that is so much more contrast that we had on the washed-out image before. Now that doesn't necessarily make this perfect. Remember, this is all to your kind of taste. What do you like to see within your image? And if you like a contrast image, this is a great way to go if you'd like one that's a little bit more subtle than you can use more of those linear adjustments. In the next video, we will look at how we can do this inside of Lightroom. 12. Color Curves in Lightroom: So here we are back in light room again and we're back with this image of Lake Superior. We can tap on the red channel and this is going work just the same as we saw before. If we put a dot down and we drag up and to the left, things will get more red. We dragged down into the right things will get more cyan. And in Lightroom you can actually double tap on a point and it will get rid of it. So that's nice. It gives you more control and you're able to get back easier than you are inside of something like snap seed. So let's go ahead and show you how we can add a contrast curve with the colour here as well. To add in our points. We'll drag or shadows down a little bit, highlights up a little bit. I got my darks, right? And then I'm going to bring mid tones just down too much. It can be quite powerful when you do this, especially when you affect somebody with as many pixels as the midtone SAS. So we're just going to try and keep it right there. Let's go to green now. And I'm gonna do the same thing. We want to be careful not to go too high here because we don't really want green highlights. You can see this image is very cool, which makes sense. There is a lot of water in it, but definitely we probably want to add some yellow in here. So this should work out pretty well. If we add in yellow into the darkest parts of the image, we should see it more map a little bit. As we add blue into the highlights will see the sky get a little bit more blue, which is good. And I think we're going to drop our mid tones down. Just a little bit. We go too far, things will start to look really unnatural. We wanna come down just a little bit just to get things a little bit warmer. Okay, so here's the before and here's the after. We've now added curve in light in the RGB channel. And then to each color channel, we've added a contrast curve as well. And so that's making that look a lot less washed out and lot more authentic there. So we can hit Done and that. And in the next video, we'll go ahead and take a look at doing this in darker. 13. Color Curves in Darkroom: Alright, here we are back in darkroom again. So let's go ahead and take a look at how we can add these contrast curves in the RGB channels here. So we'll click on are the top of the curve first. And this is where I think darkroom is very helpful because you can see what you are doing better here. You can see that as you go down, you are adding cyan and as you go up you're adding red. And so it makes it really clear. And we can do these very fine tuned adjustments here just by tapping. And it's a lot easier to get small adjustment and drag my mid tones just up a little bit just to warm it up. This was sunset. It was a really rich sunset coming off the cliffs there. So we want to get it just a little bit more warm. Contrast curve is a good place to start. And then it's good to make adjustments based on what you see after that. And remember, this is all personal preference in the eye of the beholder, what looks good and what looks bad. Couldn't give it a little bit more Magenta here, again, to give it more of that sunset field, not too much. And blue. Let's go ahead and we'll do that contrast curve. We want those highlights to be fairly yellow because it is that sunset picture. Alright, there we go. I think that's looking quite good. So that's how you'd go about doing your contrast curve here in dark grow. In the next video, we're gonna go ahead and we're going to start talking about the color controls in my room and darker. 14. Color Mix in Lightroom: Alright, so now we're back in light room and we're going to start looking at the color controls. There are no color controls in snap seed. So that's why we're not in there first to look at those. So we're just going to start here. And obviously we can't control a lot of color things from the curves directly. We can control the bouncing contrast between opposite colors there, but we can't adjust the colors, hues directly. And so that's what we're going to now. So we go down to this thermometer looking icon on the right. And you can see here we have temp and Tint sliders, which are very similar to what we had in the curves, adjustment on the blue and the green channels. And we can also adjust vibrance and saturation here. But what we're looking for is actually this colour wheel and this color wheel gives us the color mix. So say we wanted to do something like make all this water look really green. If we're on the blues, we can just come over and we can just drag to the left. And everything that's blue is going to become more and more green. Conversely, of course, we can also skewed towards Purple. And if you do anything like this extreme, then it's not going to look good. So you really want to use subtle adjustments here. You can also adjust the saturation. So say we wanted to just take all the blues away. We can just take that all the way down. And this becomes almost a black and white photo because there's so much blue in it. Double tapping any of these sliders will return them to their default position. Illuminance, adjust the lightness or darkness of specific colors. So this is great when you want to get a specific field or when the colors didn't come out quite the way you saw them in real life. So we'll just go ahead and we'll just make a couple adjustments here. I always like to see which color that I'm working with just by dragging all the way down on saturation and just see, are there very many science? There are not very many science. It's almost all real blues. So you can just kind of see that by adjusting it. Let's see here in the pink. So let's see if my daughter stresses pink. It's a little pink. Maybe it's mostly red or purples. Looks like pink and purple stair. So if we wanted to make some adjustments to the way that color worked, we would need to know where it was at. There's another cool thing you can do here with this little crosshairs at the top. Turn that on and then you can tap on a specific color and then adjust it. And you can choose to do that for hue saturation or luminance. So say we wanted to just tap on that dress directly. Then we can drag up or down. 15. Color Mix in Darkroom: Alright, here we are back in darkroom and we do have a color adjustment in dark room. It is a paid feature though. So just like the curves, you won't be able to export anything that uses the color tool unless you have paid for the app. So I'm gonna go ahead and tap these three circles on the right-hand side. And this is where we get our color adjustment. And what's nice here is we get a little histogram that shows us how much of each color is there. And so that takes out some of the guesswork. What we don't have here is the crosshairs. So we can't select a specific pixel in the image to adjust the color on. So there's pros and cons to each app as we know. And let's go ahead here. And we have the same colors. We'd have the same sliders. So of course we have red, orange, yellow, green, cyan or teal, and blue and purple, and pink or magenta. So let's go ahead and let's just see what we can adjust. You can see there's a lot in the yellow and green you can see it's highlighted what you will be effecting with each slider. So if we pop over to green, we see we're not affecting nearly as much as if we do yellow. So there's actually a lot of yellow in what our eye perceives as being green in this picture. So let's go ahead and make some adjustments. Let's say we wanted this to really look more, maybe falling. So we want to skew all very yellows towards orange. You can see that everything starts to take on more of an orange field. And then we can take the oranges and we can skew them away from yellow. We can take the greens and skew them towards yellow. And everything starts to feel quite a bit different as we do that. And so that's something you can do. You adjust this a lot when you're taking pictures may be of like fall foliage and it didn't come out quite the way that you wanted it to. Go ahead and reset that. It's just a double-tap, just like it is in Lightroom. Double-tap each slider and that will adjust them. So there's a lot that we can do with this. Obviously we have a lot of red here. So say we want those cliffs to look more orange. You can just drag that up. And those start to get a lot more orange and a lot less red. We can adjust the luminance, make them darker or brighter. And often you would not want to push something that far, right? Because it can start to look really unnatural. So let's see what we can do here. Said, I always like to drop the saturation, See what I'm affecting. So it looks like red is going to effect a little bit of the sky and the cliffs. Orange is going to affect the cliffs. And quite a bit of the sky. Yellow is going to affect the trees. In quite a bit of Sky. Greens going to affect the trees. Teal isn't going to affect anything really. Blue would affect the skies. Lightly. Purple. There might be a little bit in the cliffs, there's really nothing there. And magenta. There's really nothing there. Okay? So we're basically working with the warm colors here, what we can adjust. So let's go ahead and let's just try and give a little bit of adjustment here. I really want the focus here to fall on the cliffs. So I am going to try to adjust the yellows Sam here to kind of adjust what the trees are doing. But in order to do that, I'm first going to skew the greens towards yellows. And you can see that adjust, see how that goes as that changes the Histogram. So I'm going to skew the greens towards yellow sum. And then I'm going to take the yellows and just going to try playing with their luminance here. Going it dark in them up some maybe push them a little bit towards orange. Like what that's doing in the sky. It's giving it a much more of an orange vibe. Okay, and the eyeball will let us see the before and after with just the color Corrections. So we'll hold down on the eyeball. That's before. That's after. Okay. Yes, I do like that better because I do like that emphasis that's being placed on the cliffs. Okay, let's go to orange and that's mostly cliffs and sky. We're going to go ahead and we're going to adjust our saturation a little bit to bring out a little bit more orange. Probably tried to brighten it. Not too much. Just a little. Then let's see what we can do with our reds. Bryan up our reds. Don't want to get to brighter. We start losing that sunset feel. Darkening. It might actually be a little bit better. Look at the before and the after. And I think that's looking much better. Okay. I think I'm happy with where that is. Otherwise, the only thing I might wanna do is just bring up my saturation a little bit overall. So let's jump into our regular adjustments sliders, and go up here and we'll try the vibrance first. Vibrance tends to be a little bit more subtle. Reset that will try to saturation. Pretty much the same. I'm going to go at the vibrance. Just bring that up a little bit. Four. And after we've really made a lot of improvement to this photo using the curves and the color and then just a little beyond the basic adjustments here. So that will do it for adjusting color. This is really a good way along with curves to apply certain Look to your photos. If you always kind of boost up one color or skewed towards one color, he can give you photos of very distinct look. In the next video, we're gonna go ahead and talk about exporting these foreigners. 16. Extra Snapseed Example: Ok. Right. Welcome. Well expressed. Mm-hm. 17. Extra Lightroom Example: Right. Welcome. Well, expressed. 18. Extra Darkroom Example: Stop. Right. Welcome. Well, expressed. 19. Wrap Up: Thanks so much for watching this course. I hope that you've learned something useful in taking your iPhone photo editing to the next level. I'm so excited to see the projects that you produce. Please remember to export your first and then apply both the before and after in the project section for this course. And tell us a little bit about the edits that you've made and why you made them. If you have any questions, please feel free to go ahead and drop those into the discussion section for this course and I will do my best to answer them. And also very interested to see what other types of courses you would like to see me produce. If you give me suggestions, they are more likely to produce courses that are helpful to you. Remember, I had lots of courses and creative skills here in sculpture. And I also have my youtube channel bend designs, where I also post helpful tips and tricks and discussions related to photography and design. Thanks so much for watching, and I will see you in the next course.