Adobe Lightroom for Photographers - The Ultimate Post Processing & Editing Course for Beginners | Jellis Vaes | Skillshare

Adobe Lightroom for Photographers - The Ultimate Post Processing & Editing Course for Beginners

Jellis Vaes, Artist. Entrepreneur. Adventurer.

Adobe Lightroom for Photographers - The Ultimate Post Processing & Editing Course for Beginners

Jellis Vaes, Artist. Entrepreneur. Adventurer.

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22 Lessons (2h 17m)
    • 1. Intro Video - The Ultimate Post Processing & Editing Course for Beginners

      2:14
    • 2. WATCH THIS FIRST - How the Course Works

      4:57
    • 3. Histogram, The Quick Develop Mode, Keywording, Keyword List

      4:40
    • 4. The Library Filter Tool and More About Metadata

      9:04
    • 5. Sync Settings, Catalog, Folders, Collections, Publishing Services

      8:33
    • 6. Learn How to Import and Export your Photos

      3:34
    • 7. Spot Removal, Graduated Filter, Radial Filter, Adjustment Brush

      9:02
    • 8. The Basic Panel, Tone Curves, the Powerful HSL Panel, and Split Toning

      8:04
    • 9. Detail, Lens Corrections, Transform, Effects, Camera Calibration

      9:00
    • 10. Presets, Snapshots, History, Collections, Copy and Paste Button

      5:29
    • 11. How to Organize Your Photos

      5:45
    • 12. How to Rate & Label Your Photos, and How to Filter Through Them

      5:23
    • 13. In-Depth Explanation of the Catalog and the Various Options

      6:13
    • 14. How to Import a Catalog to Another Computer, How to Merge two Catalogs

      7:13
    • 15. Handy Shortcuts in Lightroom

      8:46
    • 16. How to Create Panorama Photos in Lightroom

      8:50
    • 17. Field Tips to Take Better Panorama Photos

      3:56
    • 18. How to Create HDR Photos in Lightroom

      5:07
    • 19. How to Take Bracketing Photos & Field Tips to Take Better HDR Photos

      3:40
    • 20. Optimize your Catalog, Camera Raw Cache, and Graphic Processor

      8:37
    • 21. Smart Previews Explained & How to Build Them

      6:05
    • 22. How Smart Previews can Optimize the Performance Speed in Lightroom

      3:01
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About This Class

Welcome to section 1 of The Ultimate Post Processing & Editing Course for Beginners

In this section, we will explore how Lightroom works and will dig down into the nuts and bolts of all you need to know to make that step up from a beginner to an advanced Lightroom user.

Once you are through this course I can promise you, you will be able to work and handle Lightroom smoother than you ever thought possible. Here is just a small summary of the things you will learn:

What Will I Learn?

  • An in-depth tour in how every essential function and tool in Lightroom works
  • Handy shortcuts that will make your experience in Lightroom twice the fun
  • The many possibilities for categorizing, organizing and labeling there are in Lightroom to enable you to create your own unique workflow
  • How to create HDR and panorama photos in Lightroom
  • Things you can do to optimize Lightroom to make it run faster

As you see, there are many exciting things waiting ahead of you in this fun, informative and engaging course. And, along this journey, remember that I am here for you as your teacher, all the time.

Don’t hesitate to ask me any questions in the community tab. Every single one of them will be answered. We are all a team here, and I will do my absolute best to help and guide you along with any help you may need.

Also, please note that this section of The Ultimate Post Processing & Editing Course for Beginners is the first of three.

There are two follow up sections, namely Section 2 – Adobe Photoshop for Photographers, and Section 3 – Learn to Edit Your Photos Like a Pro.

If you are done with this section of the course and want to continue learning more of the post-processing & editing part of photography, just follow the course route from Section 1 -> Section 2 -> Section 3.

An honest review and rating is always appreciated and will help me to make any necessary improvements for the course, as well helping to get more people involved so they too can benefit from the beauty of photography. Many thanks!

__________________________

Connect with me:

Facebook: Jellis.Vaes
Instagram: JellisVaes
Twitter: @Jellis_V
Youtube: channel/UCSN058GSqdV5ndLbubY3AlQ

__________________________

The Ultimate Photography Course for Beginners

Not yet mastered the technical and theoretical aspects of your camera or photography? The Ultimate Photography Course for Beginners, my first course, digs into the true essentials in understanding those aspects. It’s a quick, yet in-depth and fun course that is highly recommended, not just by me, but by more than a hundred 5-star reviewers.

Meet Your Teacher

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Jellis Vaes

Artist. Entrepreneur. Adventurer.

Teacher

Hey! I am Jellis Vaes, a licensed trauma therapist, adventurer, and CEO/founder of The IPS Project, an educational platform on life.

The platform was formed out of my struggles with my own demons—loneliness and suicidal thoughts. In essence, I created a platform I wish had existed when I was struggling with my problems.

Through practical articles, online courses, events, and a regular podcast, the platform provides knowledge about life topics such as mental health, relationships, the workings of the mind, etc.—topics that many of us learn little to nothing about while growing up.

When I am not holding therapy sessions or working on The IPS Project, you’ll likely find me out in the mountains or traveling somewhere with a camera in hand. I am... See full profile

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Transcripts

1. Intro Video - The Ultimate Post Processing & Editing Course for Beginners: Hi there. Welcome to the ultimate prosper, acing and editing course for beginners. My name is Ellis Fast, and I am a professional travel and adventure for Darfur, and I hope that you already to take your photos from this to this after my first successful course, the ultimate photography course for beginners, where recovered all the theoretical and technical aspects off photography. I am super excited to invite you on a brand new adventure where we will explore the other half off the whole that makes up with our fee, plus processing and editing. This course is designed beach and show you all of fundamental techniques and tools off Light Room and Photoshopped. Now I've divided discourse with three sections. The 1st 1 will explain how lights and works. The second month will explain how Photoshopped works and all of different techniques and tools that we will need. And in the third section that's where the actual bus processing and editing will come to happen and where we will go over various different photos, all from start to finish, applying all those different techniques and tools that we have learned in those previous lessons with every photo that we will come to edit in the third section. We will come to learn a whole variety of new skills and techniques that all together will come to make your okay looking photos into stunning and dramatic looking photographs that will take yours and everyone's breath away. Now I hope to see you soon as I, for one, can't wait to be your feature and to show you exactly what's in store for you. There's a lot of fun to be had in taking this course, so hop on boards and I'll see you soon. 2. WATCH THIS FIRST - How the Course Works: hi and welcome to the ultimate Prospero's ing and anything course for beginners. Super excited that you decided to embark. You're with me on this adventure, and I can't wait to show you all of the cool things that are waiting ahead of us. Before we do the into all of that, I just want to dimension a few small things about discourse to ensure that you will have the best experience. First of all, let me start off by saying that if throughout the course something is not 100% clear to you , or if you come to stumble upon any more questions on anything or bust crossing after the course, don't be afraid to ask me a question creating this course. I'm trying to do more than just these videos alone. I'm trying to be here for you as a teacher, so don't be shy. If you have any questions on editing or bus processing police, go ahead and as them, it might take me a day or two to come back at you, but I will assure you I will come to answer your questions. Secondly, if you don't already know how to operate your camera, correctly. If you don't know how to work with Aiso, temperature, shutter speed and all the other technical and theoretical aspects off your camera, I would highly recommend you to check out my other course. The ultimate photography courses for beginners or mere lifts cameras such as effort, your shutter speeds and so. But we will also cover various composition techniques, process of workflow and even touch upon the basics for bus processing and making. It has received a lot of great refuse. It's a very fun and engaging course, and it doesn't take like 10 hours long to to finish it. It goes down into the true essentials off all of theoretical and technical aspects that you need to know now. The reason why that I am mentioning this here in this scores is because boat editing, a bus, processing and knowing how to correctly operate your camera. Both of them go together. Both of them are needed to take good photos. The 1st 1 say it serves into knowing how to take a good photo on the spot, and the 2nd 1 this course serves into knowing how to edit your photos to make them afterwards look incredible boat. This courses boat, this one and the ultimate photography course for beginners served as a very strong based ground into photography. So if you don't already know all those theoretical and technical aspects, I highly recommend you to check and learn that first, unless, but not least now, I have already mentioned this in the intro video. But if for some reason you didn't watch it, let me just mention here one more time. I have divided the scores into tree sections. The first section we will come to see how life works the second section. We will come to see how 40 ship works and all the tools and techniques that we will need. And in the third section, that's where the actual anything and prosper acing will come to happen and where we'll go over various different photos, all from start to finish, applying all those different that needs and tools that we have learned in the other lessons and each voter that we will come to edit. We will also come to learn ah whole range of different techniques and tools. Now, if you already know how to work with lights room and for the shop you can effect jump straight through the third section. I could, however, still recommend you to check out the 1st 2 sections because you never know there might be still some some tricks and tips or tools and techniques that you don't know yet will benefit a lot in knowing. So it's entirely, however, up to you, I've created these scores in such a way that the freedom is completely yours Now for everyone who is very new to light from and photo shop. Be sure to check out the 1st 2 sections, of course, because they will explain very well how light room a photo shop work and will give you a good base grounds how to work with those two programs. Now I think I've done all my talking, at least so far. Thanks again for for taking the scores. I appreciate it a lots, and I'm very humbled that I can I can have you as a student, and I can share some off the knowledge that I have about photography. You I'm sure we'll both come to have some great funnier in this course, and without any further ado, let's get started 3. Histogram, The Quick Develop Mode, Keywording, Keyword List: So here we are in the first lesson and in light room, and I'm gonna explain to you all this steps here and what each one of them does in the U. S. Ground. We can kind of see what's going on in the photo here. It's like a very quick and easy way and a more in detail way off, seeing the things that are going on here in the photo. What I mean with that is, if all these stones arm or to the right side, we will have amore overexposed photo. If all authors will go more to the left side's, we will have a new under exposed photo. And here in this photo right now, you could see there are a lot more tones here, like there's one big beak here and this is probably coming from the clouds. Here we have a lot more information going to the whites and highlights and in a bright areas in this photo and ah, what also off tones in the mid tones. So let me just quickly show you how those stones will look like if we would have an under exposed in an over exploits photo if I would slight this year all the way to the left. You can see the don't are all moving to the left side because we're putting a lot more information into darks and you can see our photo is becoming darker, right? If we would slightest photo all the way to the right side Now you could see our photos becoming brighter and the bones are also going here to the right side of history. Graham is very helpful tool of showing you what's going on in your photo Now in this instagram that we also have the rest of the information. What happened in our photo? We have the eyes. Oh, that we shot this photo with the vocal length, the temperature and the shutter speeds and the information all your stored in the east a gram that the quick develop mode is basically the develop module here. But just a quick version offense You can like, increase the exposure like in a quick way to it, or you can nets of clarity or vibrance. You can explore a bit through it, but there's not much used to meet in using the quick development. Basically, key Wardy, we can give keywords to our photos. The light room actually comes with already some presets with some keywords it So right now I have outdoor photography selected, and we could see some outdoor photography. Keywords. Landscape, Spring, Fall, micro summer, winter. You can also have wedding bright wedding party. I can set landscape through this foot of because it is the landscape flowers and plans I could actually too. But of course we can enter our own keywords in it so I can put, for example, Redd's because I'm wearing like a red T shirt over there. Now, if you go year to keyword list, we can see first of all, the keywords that we have used on this photo here. And then here you can see all the photos that we have with that key work on. Um, I could click your old landscape and which, like, on the arrow here, and then we go here down to the grid, view each photo that you select the landscape. You were, too, will Then show up here. It's a way of filtering out. Um, certain photos, I guess if you are working with a lot of models, it could be hand helpful in giving each photo a key work with that model or something. I don't find any real or not too much used to it for me, at least because it's just like an extract thing that I have to do for me. Too much work, and it's not really helpful in any way for me to finding my photos back again. I use a different ways in locating and finding the photos that at once, and I will explain this later in some other lessons. How I do it, and it's a much faster and quicker way for me. But again, this can definitely be something very helpful for some people. So explore a bit with it and see if it is helpful for you. Now that we're here in the great view, let me just click on none. Having all these photos, we have some other ways off filtering outs. Our photos effect 4. The Library Filter Tool and More About Metadata: having all these photos. We have some other ways off Filtering outs are photos effect on top here. Right now we have none. But if we would go to metadata, you go down here. You can select a pre set of filter preset off how you want the fielder, your photos. So if we go to camera info, ride on top here camera, we can go a filter, each camera model so I could click on an icon and all the photos that I took with my neck and D eight on Earth and are showing here right now. And also we can go into Lens, which lends we used. We could feel throughout all the photos that we took with that lens vocal length and the flesh state. Now the cool thing is that we can customize this. Let's go to Lens and if I will go, let's say I won the field with temperature on and Aiso here and, um, shutter speeds there. I can customize these steps, and if I want, I can click here on no filter, and I can save this as a preset so I can save current. Yellow is false. Fielder click on create, and each time again, if we want to use that fielder preset, which is go down here and click on that one, and this one will show up once again. So now we can feel throughout each photo that I took with F 1.8 or I could feel throughout with certain Aiso that took or a way to shutter speed. It's a pretty in that way off, filtering out specific photos that you're looking for. Also, you can go to attributes could feel they're all photos with one rate starting that you gave or with five great starting or on the color that you gave them the color label a red one. Or let's say you want to look for everyone and also on the flex that you selected a flag on them or the rejection fleck. So that's also a way off going and filtering out some photos and then also you can go to text and you can just go here, uh, and site being, uh, landscape. And then those photos whittle with landscape key. Wording will show up, but basically you could just, like, go and click on here, which is an easier way actually, let's go further on the year with the next step the meta data, the metadata ease the information that is stored within the file itself. So if I would go and right click on this and go to properties and into details, which is the information off this photo? What's showing here is exactly what is showing here. To this is the information that is stored within two file within the photo itself. Now the thing is, you can actually store your copy rights into your photo into the file itself. And the reason why that's a very good thing to do is because when you're sharing your photo on the Internet and someone is downloading it, using it for himself without you actually wanting that person to use it, your copyrights are within the file. Their start within the file so you can claim that that photo is yours, and this is a very important thing to So let me show how you can do that. So you have to go here to preset. I already have made one copyright Yalies Foss and you can see here all of this here is foolin because of that. But let's go down to edit presets and scroll down to E. P. D. C. Copyrights. Now, I would suggest you to bus this video and ride those things over the following things that I'm going to mention now. So right over copyrights and then the copyright symbol your name, obviously all rights reserved. Also, be sure to have this box checked on copyright status. Copyright, it writes, uses use urge terms, all rights reserved. No reproduction without prior permission. Copyright info. Ural, If you have a website, you can write it there. If you don't don't worry about it. Then go down to the next one E P. D. C. Creator, creator, yellows. False your name and then created email. You can, ah, enter your email their creator website again. If you have any website, you can put it there and then go down to the last one here that we need to fill in e p. D. C. Status credit line and just filling your name again. And if you have a company or your website, you can also full it next to it. And insource once again your name So those tree e pdc copyrights e PTC creator, an e p D. C. Status. Those street boxes filled them in with this information. So once that's done, you go to preset. Here you click on it A you click on safe current settings as new presets in here Name your preset as, uh, Yalies us copy rights. And let me just put two because of done this already and click on creates presets showing on top here and click on Done. Now where we click on the preset here, this will note all into that file. Now, all into this photo. Right now, it's only this photo that has this metadata. So what we need to do is we need to select that photo. It's like that photo and we need to synchronize that meta data with all the other photos scheme are light from catalogue. Go on shift and click on less photo so that you have all the photos selected that you want to secret eyes. The meta data Now go down here on sink meta data click on it. We will now this preset we from that photo that we have selected. We can now synchronize all this by collecting on sink rise and all of your photos will have this metadata. Now, Now there's one less thing, because each time that you will import new photos into a light room, they will not yet have that metadata. We can tell light room to load this metadata preset each time when we're importing a photo . And the way to do that is to go down here to imports, click on it and go to apply during imports. Go down here and by meta data select Yalies fast Gopi rides. Select that. And when we will come to import now photos each photo that we import that one will be applied now, One more thing, because when we will be done, this will be gone again. Like we will have to select that again. What we can do is we can make a preset off this settings all of those settings here so we can make a preset having that setting check down by going down here to imports presets and we click on none and we click on safe current settings s new preset. So click on there really presets example and click on creates and you could see now import preset Yalies fuss preset example if you are doing this right now, while not importing any photos, you should import just one photo. Because if I will click on cancel now, not having important any photos lecture will remember this. It's only when you will apply. Just one study will keep this preset. So if I will go and click on cancel now and I will go back to imports. The import preset is not there anymore. Selected again, Really sauce preset example and just import. I don't know any any photo. Just the random photo. Um, let me just like here in boards. Let it just import for a moments. And if I will go back now to imports, you could see import preset the preset stay snow. 5. Sync Settings, Catalog, Folders, Collections, Publishing Services: first of all, the sink matter data. We already covered that, but the sink setting. It's a very, very useful button in light room, and it works just the same as sink metadata on Lee. We're not sinking the metadata, but we're sinking the settings from the developed moat on the different changes that we made into a photo. I made some adjustments students for it all right, and let's go back to the library moat. And let's say that I want to sink those exact same settings to another photo instead of having to go into that photo and trying to put those settings that way again, an easier way east by synchronizing those settings from that photo to this one. So you just like the photo that you want to sink those settings from and then hit control or commence. It's like the photo that you want the single sitting still and then go down here to sink settings, and in this step, we can effect, even choose what we want to synchronize over. So if you only want to sing the wide balance or the color balance, those changes that you made in color, you can check non off process version. This always has to be checked on, but you can go into color and you can sink synchronised, only the colors alone if you have made some adjustments on this photo as well, but you don't and on that one, too. But you don't want to synchronize everything but just the cars alone you can. You can do that and that's with everything. But in this case, we could just check all on. And if we click on sink, you can see those exact same settings that we had that we made in that photo are now synchronized to this photo. Now, where does gets really handy or helpful ease if we when we have more than just one photo that we want to sink the same setting stew, we could just make those settings and adjustments on just one photo alone and that we can go ahead with shift click all the photo, all of photos where we want those settings synchronized to, and it just leak on sink cities and then synchronize. All right, so let's go over now to the left side and let's see what those steps over here do. This shows the current catalogue that you're using. End those photos in that headlock, and I'm gonna talk a lot more about what exactly again luck is later on. But for now, you just need to know that in this step you can see your catalog that using and the photos in back and look in this depth here, you can actually see the folders that you're using in your get luck and where they are stored. So this is actually the Fullers where your original photos are stored and they are here on my hard drive. But if you have an external hard drive, you will be showing an external hard drive and the places where these photos over here are stored. And if you actually want to see where exactly they are, you can just click on them. You can go right, click and then go to show in Explorer. And this will show you where that map is stored on your hard drive or on your external hard drive. And you can do that also with a photo. You could just right click on the photo and go to show in Explorer, and it will show you the original place where that photo is stored. Now, let's say that accidentally, you move that photo somewhere else. Weight from the original place light. You will show now, Um attention, Mark, because it 1000 nowhere. That photo is anymore. Now they're two ways off fixing this and the 1st 1 is just by placing that photo back to its original place, you see, the detention mark goes away our the other way of fixing that because sometimes it is your attention to actually move your photo to another location. And if that's the case that you just need to update, you need to let light through know where that photo is now. So you just click on the attention, Mark, you click a locate, and then you go to where you have placed that photo and you just leak on select. So you let light through know where that photo is now And that's the same if you have a fuller let's take this full of here showing Explorer. And if it iss somewhere difference, Let's take this one. You fix it just a way, as you do with the photos you will now see that light room you will give this question mark because it doesn't know where that folder is. So again, you can just right click on the folder, click on Find Missing Folder, and that you go to where you have placed that fuller and then select Fuller. Or else you just replace that fuller back to its original place and all is fixed again. Any collections you can. Actually, you can create collection cents. So, for example, if you would like to create a collection of all your landscape photos, another collection of all your board breath photos, another collection of all your white life photos you can create that in here. Let's say that you want to create a collection, a landscape collection that you click on the plus sides, plus sign you Klay Gun Create collection and you give the collection. The name landscape will have his unchecked. You just want to have a collection on its own and then click on Creates. And now we have here an empty collection. And if we go to our Fuller's to our photos, let's just select a few landscapes. That's the lens gave do, uh, or that one. So let's just select them and let's drag them to the collection Fuller. And when we g o in this year, now you can see we have a collection off our landscapes and weaken. We can create collections in anything like in Portrait's. While life, Like I said, you can create as many collections as you wants another type of collections that you can make East Smart collections and this are different type of collections. If you click on the plus sign, create smart collection. What a smart collection is. It's basically you can give it rules. So let's say you you want roll. It's leave rating East five stars. So when I would create this rating is five stars. If I would create this collection now, every photo to my catalogue that I've raided with five stars will come to appear in that collection. Now we can make more rules by just clicking on the plus sign here and let's say label Golar piece green. So now I've added another rule on that collection set. So every photo that in my catalogue that I afraid it with five stars and if labeled with a green color will now appear in that collection set. And while you can you can keep making all this rules here. And you could make some kind of a smart collection that could be useful. In here, you can connect lights room to a few services as adults. Stock Facebook, Flickinger. You can basically, uh, if you connect your Facebook with light room that you could just take this photo and you could drag it and he will boast that floated. And on your timeline on Facebook. 6. Learn How to Import and Export your Photos: the lest. Two buttons over here. The import button. If you want the import photos in life from First of all, connect your camera or your SD reader to light room and then click on imports and it's going to show now those photos from your as the cards, obviously. And here you're gonna import those for us from your SD card into your light room catalogue . So I'm moving this from my SD reader or, you know, the SD cards, copying it to their some copying those files on my hard drive. Now you don't have to do actually much normally Egypt after import. I think this is already pre checked on for everyone. But if it's not, I would have that. Once you imported and the import is done, light from will automatically be. Check your as the reader or your camera, so it's already safe to just remove it again. So just click on imports. That's it now, like to me is just importing those photos. Now the export button. Let's say that we want to export this photo over here, so click on exports and you will have all this settings here. First of all, you can click on export two, and then you can choose where you want the export the files to. I would just have it on your desktop, and then you can also choose once it's exported that it should place it in a folder or not the file sitting. Basically, if you wanna have the highest amount of quality than you should slide it through 100% quality. Be sure to have the color space toe s RGB and the image format on Jay Peak output sharpening You could apply in general, if you are exporting it with the highest qualities than this shouldn't be needed when I'm using our boat. Sharpening, however, is when I'm trying to resize it, and I'm needing to put quality bit down than the output. Shopping will just at a little bit off extra sharpness to two photo, because I'm trying to decrease it in other ways to get a smaller file size league on exports and your photo will go in the sub fuller that you created. Or it will just go to show on your desktop or wherever you choose that you want it to have it. One more thing when you are exporting. You can infect, create presets. I f year tree user presets. One is the high quality J pick. The other one is with a watermark. Also the high quality Jay Peak and then one is for work breast where I am, where I'm trying to decrease some of the file size to put it on my website. To create a preset out of some setting, you make some adjustments and you click on eth name your presets you is, and you can choose in which fuller I would just butt in user presets and create. You could see now you have a preset. So each time you don't have to go through all those settings again. You can just click straight away on that preset. All right, we have just seen all off the steps in the library modes. Let's go over now to the develop, Moz 7. Spot Removal, Graduated Filter, Radial Filter, Adjustment Brush: what we can do different here now in the history Graham, it's We could show where the shadows are clipping or where the highlights are clipping. So if we were click on here now in the shadows, there's nothing really clipping. But if we would click on the highlights, you can see my highlights are clipping here in the clouds. Now what that mean is this information here is lost. If we would increase the blacks by turning left here, you could see the blue here. This is all lost information in the shadow details now, so it's got important to not have too much going to there, because then we're kind of just losing patrolling information away. So let's reset that again, and you concern yourself by just clicking on those arrows again. Next thing ISS. We have some very, very handy tools in light from here, and the 1st 1 is the crop to drag from the top, and you can kind of crops the footage that you once and if that's what you want to go about , you just click on done. If you want to reset all of this again, you just click on you reset here the straighten tool where you can kind of draw a line, do straight in your horizon. So you're gonna have to make a straight line on, then let go of it, and then you will kind of crop to there to straighten your horizon. Mostly, when I want to straighten my horizon, I just click your on its up and you see all off those extra lions running through it. I just strike like line one of those lines of, and I tried to just look at the photo together, just strain it through my eyes and by lining it up with one of those lines in here you have the clone and the hell with the heel brush. It's more like a smarter tool than the clone brush with the clone brush. If you click, lateral will just clone something exactly from that photo or from this the other circle, that's where it took it from. It will just clone exactly that on there, not do anything with the heel brush. It will also clone something, but it will try to blend it better in. So right now, we would not see any kind of hard edge here distant like a lot better, so I could definitely recommend to use the heel brush instead of the clone one. So the next thing that we have year is the red eye correction. Now, if you have any red eyes in a portrait that you shot, have the red dog into the eyes, you just click on it and light. You will correct that this could be used boat for humans and pets. Even the next tool that we have is the great aerated builder, and this tool at an extra tools are some pretty powerful tools in light room. Now the way to use this is we just click, and we dragged down to create a graduated filter. Now we can go in here and make some adjustments to this area alone. So let's say that we would like to bring the exposure down. We just bring exposure down and you could see were Onley affecting that area alone. If you want to have a better perspective off which area exactly you're affecting, you just click down here on show selected mask overlay. And as you can see everywhere, murders red, that's where we are affecting the adjustment. Also if you drag this one up, if you drag it mawr toe this line closer, you're making the differing stronger. But if you're kind of pulling it out, you're making the transaction a lot more softer and a very cool thing that weaken due East . For example, you you would say I didn't want to have the tree effective, but you didn't want to have the sky affected. You could go down here to brush and you couldn't have a brush. And if you click on Ault because right now there's a plus sign, we can even add some more off that effect if you want here. But if let let's say that you didn't want to have that effect on the tree, you could click on ALTs, and you can paint that away on this area. So it's just now blight on here, but you can pain away areas where you didn't want it by hitting on the brush. The radio filter is very similar to the graduated builder, only here you are creating a circle or a novel so we can kind of drag and drop this anywhere where we once if we would increase the exposure or decrease it. You can see everything outside of the circle is now has been decreased with exposure. We can also invert that if you want to have the effect inside of the circle, you click on invert mask and now that effects is applied inside the mask. So if we want to have it outside, we just leave it unchecked. You wanna inside click on invert mask exact, same as the graduated filter. We could also take the brush here and we could eater at some more Ah, where it didn't affect it. Or we can remove some of those areas where we did not in fact wanted to have the effect. On the next door is the brush dual. And with the brush tool, you can make individually make adjustments on one spot or one object alone. So let's say that we just want to bring the exposure up industry here. We just put this control point down, we increase the exposure and we started painting here, and we are only affecting that where we are bending. You are gonna kind of feels like you're some kind of a baiter when you're doing this. It's pretty cool. And also you can go down here to show select mask over late to see where exactly you are applying or where you're painting. A cool thing here is the auto mask, so let's remove this control. Buoyed by hitting delete. If we click on the auto mask, Lytro will separates contrast and will be aware off the country's difference. So if I would start painting now, I will not being too much outside of the lines now, I couldn't go like very fast and not being like too much outside, because light room is being aware off the count. Countries difference. So let me explain. Here this sittings off the brush. This ice well, that's the size off the brush that you could either increase by dragging the slider here or by just hitting the control your scroll wheel, but just screwing it up and down the feathering. So to explain this, let me just put the exposure all the way up. And let's put the feathering to the percent. The feathering is Hartness off your brush. You could see it is dot here is becoming It's just one circle alone now, but if we put the feathering up, there's this outer circle appearing, and we we can just brush a lot more suffer with it. The edges are much softer with the feathering mawr higher. So I always gonna leave. This got into 60%. So the flow is actually the amounts that you're letting out when you're painting. Because right now I am I am painting with 14% off the flow and each time that I go over it , you will get more and more and more until it actually hits 100%. But it's starting from 14. So if I would going out to 100% I will let out 100%. Mostly also keep the flow sort of low to kind of build up the effects and the density. That's actually how much you kind of set the limits on how much you want the pain with the flow. Now I can go to, ah, 100% with it. If I would set the density to 50 I could only go to 50%. I can go to 100% with it. At some point. It will just stop what ever put it to 100%. I could just keep going and tool I hate 100% 8. The Basic Panel, Tone Curves, the Powerful HSL Panel, and Split Toning: All right, let's go over here to the basic panel. And first lighter here is to affect the temperature. So if we increase it, we increased warms. If we decrease it, we make our photo look more bluer or cooler and the other slider east to affect the things within our photo. The next sliders that we have here is the exposure one. And we've seen this a few times now already. But this is like the general brightness that you affect in your photo. So if we go down, we effects well, we make it generally, all of it darker. If we go up, we make it brighter, all of it. And by the way, if you want to put this back to zero instead of like, dragging it to zero, you could just double click on it. And he were set on its own gun. Trist. You could say that you're in chancing the darks and lights with gun dressed where you're increasing it. Ana, this can definitely help to make your photo more out. Don't overdo it. In my opinion, don't make your photo that much better with it. Just use it like a little bit to make your photo. Maybe a little bump out many photos. It's actually also very nice to decrease the gun trist. Now. It's definitely not in this photo, but in some other photos that we're gonna edit. I actually decreased. The country s in many photos that I added, because it gives this Gallimore film ish look to your photo the highlights. That's where we decrease or increase the highlights. The shadows. That's for the shadows. Decrease. Increase the wides. That's where we increase the Weitz or decrease the whites and the blacks. That's where we increase or decrease the blanks. Clarity. It's similar to contracts, but like a smarter contrast clarity on Lee effects the myth, Don's, it might seem when you add clarity that you're sharpening your photo, but technically you're not. You're just increasing the mid don't A little bit of clarity can also give kind of like an extra punch. Your photo the next two sliders. Most people don't actually know the difference between them, the vibrance and the separation. So if I will put the vibrance all the way to 100% now, let me put it back on the ballot with saturation always 200%. For many people, it's like, all right, both of them kind of seemed to do the same, their boat just increasing dollars saturation. It just increases every color. Vibrance is like a smart tool. Vibrance will just affect the colors. We're just not that much color in it. So it's like a smart tool in putting more color into areas where there's not enough or whether is color liking. So let's go over here to the tone. Curves don't curves you can kind of use to find Chuan mawr, your settings that you did in the basic adjustments here with the highlights and shadows, the whites and blacks. It's more like a fine tuned way because you have more control. Actually, in the tone curves you can first of all, a Justin just by clicking in them or you can go in here. This is basically just the same. It just got it depends what you gonna that you like more. And also you can adjust. Don't curse by dragging this control point into a photo so you can take this and you could put it in here that you can dreck and drop, and it will effect what it's reading in there. But where this kind of gets more powerful, it's when we go down to here where we can actually edit the born curves themselves. So now we can kind of make some curves importance in it and weaken. Really gotta bends this in any gun away that we want a weakened as many off those points as we once. If you wanna delete those points just right, click on it and delete control points. Or you can also rightly gun it and you can click on fled and curve, and then they will just flatten everything. You can also edit or effect different channels. Now it's affecting RGB, which is red, green and blue, so it's affecting all of them at once. But you can just affect red. And if you drag down now, if you go down up your affecting Retz and you can kind of thinking very specific areas, you could do that also with green blue. So let's get on here to this panel here, and first of all, you can see H SNL dollar be in white, which is black and white hnl students for you. Situation eliminates now this step and this step are exactly the same. The layout is just different, so but they do exactly the same. Mostly I use this layout for me. I find it a lot more over better over you. But just know that those two tabs do exactly the same now, first of all, I would do you. We can kind of change the colors off the yellow, the situation. That's where we increase the color. And Lou, it is. That's the brightness off the color that we can increase or decrease one. Extracting that the H s L appear has then the color dozens east. We have this also control points, and you can also anywhere where you kind of put it It will affect that color. So you can see now we're affecting the blue. If I will go down here than we are affecting mawr, the yellow on here should be more like the greens. We could see the slider got you know it's gonna sliding there. I always use the color layout here. I individually go over each color and see what they all do and then see which one I like in the photo and also here in the black and whites were still affecting in some way to colors . But we're just doing it in black and white now. So that's the H S L panel here. Split zoning is probably one of the most ignored panels in light room, although it's a very powerful one because we can separately give a color to our highlights and to our shadows and weaken dramatically impact the mood in our photos to split Toning. Now the way this works is when we click on here and right now we are affecting. The highlights were giving a color to the highlights. And let's say that we want to make we want to make it a little warmer something we can or we can. You know we can go on, make it cooler. But we're putting a color into the highlights now. And using this slider over here, you can either decrease or increase the strength that we are applying into the color. This step here and this panel is exactly like the color and the ages l They both do the same, but they're just you got to choose what you prefer mawr, uh, the use. But they just do the same. So you gotta choose a color more here and then. But the situation, maybe a little less and then here in shadows weaken effect. Just the shadows alone. The balance one is going to do here. You got to see the balance things, more outs. So it's kind of like fine tuning those scholars a little bit. So let's be like something like that. But let's risk set this again at Let's Go on to the detail panel here. 9. Detail, Lens Corrections, Transform, Effects, Camera Calibration: in a detailed panel. That's where you could put more details to your photo and more sharpening. Now let me, first of all tell you that if you have a photo that it's not in focus or not sharp The detail panel. We do not make your photo all of us or magically sharp again. You have to be sure that you have taken your photo already in focus and sharp the detail. Bell will just help you increase that sharpness, but it will not make an unfocused photo in focus again. That's something that you can fix. So we get in here in the detail panel on extra window here in the screen, I assume, in somewhere different than here. Here I would go into more of a finer item like me over there and the amounts. That's where we can increase our sharpening and how much we want to apply. Now, don't overdo. It is because you can see in here those little dots that are appearing. That's noise and we are kind of breaking our photo now, so you should definitely not overdo that and just, like, increased a little bit. The radius. That's kind of like the edges off your photo that you're increasing or decreasing details. That's the role, the details, that you're increasing off everything and in the masking masking illuminates those two. That's where you can kind of find Eun things again and bring things back into balance with masking. If you hit Ault and you slice this up everywhere, where there's whites, that's where all those settings that we have just made into the sharpening that's where that will be applied on everywhere Reuters Blank. It will not be a blight on there and generally, like, we don't want any sharpening really in the sky, right? The sky shouldn't really have any Scharping applied to it, so we could kind of like find Xun and site where we just want to have all of those sharpening blood on. And let's say something like this luminous here we can reduce the noise s So let me just put like the details and the shopping. You can definitely see the or scan a little dots off noise in here and with the luminous were flattening those outs. But be aware because using it 100% were also trading that for details. So we are effect losing details in our photos, so it never really used. It's too much. I would only use it maybe maximum to 10 or something. But I wouldn't go crazy, extreme witted because then we're just losing detail all of the other ones year. I wouldn't mind too much about them. They're also way off reducing the noise and find shooting things, but generally just masking and luminous those two sliders who will help you into balancing everything outs. And I also have to say that I don't apply any sharpening in light room in photo shop, and we will come to see this in the photo shop section. Photoshopped has a lot better tools off sharpening your photos, and I sharpen my photos in photo shop because it has better tools. And also because I can mawr individually applied, sharpening through a certain areas where I want sharpening on here. I'm kind of like sharpening generally everything right with the masking. I, of course, can kinda choose Mawr or leave out where I don't want it, But still, I'm still affecting things here that I might not want to effect. If you are, just load anything. Elektrim that definitely use this right, But if you're also going on further in photo shop, then I would say Don't use the detail too much. Sometimes I use it a little bit, too. If there's like a lot of noise in my photo, I would like put the luminous just a little bit to kind of smooth that little bit out, but not much. And then I will go into photo shop afterwards where I would use the better sharpening techniques to shop in my photo. All right, so the next step that we have here is the lens corrections. I would always have boat, remove chromatic aberration and enable profile corrections. I would always have them checked on in many photos. You you will see that there is this kind of weird color to soar gin like happening over here. You can see like there's some purple showing over there which shouldn't really be there, right. If we click on a remove chromatic aberration, light show will go and removal that, and you can see it's all removed. If I click on that elf again, it's bag there. If I click on it again, it's all being removed. Definitely be sure to always have that on. Even if you think there's nothing really needed, it doesn't hurt right to have it on. Enable profile correction. This will. You could see it was not like a lot. But you could see here he can correct some distortion that your your lens creates. So boat does to always have them checked on on each photo. I You know that boat. Fix a problem or make my photo better. All right, the next spend all Hugh is to transform Bennell the buttons over here. You could, first of all, auto. Correct your photo on. You can just let light room. Gonna guess what will be best to level up your photo here. Sometimes level if you click on it, you will correct the level. Vertical will correct the vertical perspective and full will correct boat theorizing and the vertical perspective. All right, so, going on next year to the effects in this year, we can can create a vignette in our photo. So if we go to the left, we have a dark thing yet if we go to the do the right side, that's where we can make white vignette the midpoint That's where you could kind of choose from from where it kind of starts the rightness, you can kind of create the shape of it. You've got to make it more round like this. And if I increase the feathering here Sorry, decrease it. You could see like this. It's a very route. One like this is more like a square going Teoh a novel and then going all the way to run circle and the feathering you're making things mawr softer This way. Uh, there's, like just a very hard edged vignette and here you are, making it all softer and softer. With great weekend at grain to our photo. You want to make your photo look a bit more older? Size is the size off off the grain, and roughness is gonna haul hard. The gray needs like right now it's pretty, you know, rough. It's very intense on amount. That's just how many grain that you want, the haste sometimes where you have, like a misty photo you can you can actually correct the hace within this. Now, this is not a photo with any missed or something. But if there will be just going like up you can take that. The haste away in this step here if you're shooting raw, I'm sure that when you were a viewing your photo on your LCD screen, it looked a lot more colorful than when you were putting it into life room. Many times it looks like very kind of grayish more where you put that photo in light room. But I actually happens is because where you are taking a photo and you're reviewing on your LCD screen in your camera, your camera will already apply. And boss process that photo. Or at least it will bus process a preview off that that you're seeing on your LCD screen, and then when you're importing that photo into light broom, it will remove all off those colors and all those adjustments that it made into the preview . You can go in here and you could bring back that picture profile by going to profile, and you could choose here between these different profiles you conjoined between camera, landscape camera, neutral camera, portrait camera, standard camera, vivid And here he actually bringing back in those profiles what you were seeing in your on your LCD screen. Now, of course, you could also go in here and kind of mentally make a profile yourself or make some adjustments in that profile that you selected here. I just leave it to the default here. I just leave it to add up standards. And I sometimes used the shadows, the slider, the shadow slider here to bring some things into my shadows. For many photos, this looks pretty nice, Uh, or sometimes they give, like a little extra punch in my blue this year and increase the saturation. 10. Presets, Snapshots, History, Collections, Copy and Paste Button: All right, so let's go over now to the left side. Here. Presets are basically settings here, and you could save them into a preset. So if I will go and click on here, I'm loading this kind of settings, and sometimes I gotta scrolled through them, just not really to use them, but more kind of to see in which kind of way I could go with my photo. It's kind of like a quick way of just seeing all the possibilities. Sort of what you could do or the kind of looks that you could go for. But of course, we can create our own presets. First of all, you need to have some adjustments. So let's I'm gonna gonna make just some crazy adjustment here. Just gonna show Well, something like that. If we go and click on the plus sign Preset name Weaken. Naming the crazy effect in Fuller. Let's choose user presets and check all and then create. And now, in user presets, the crazy effect or any kind of free said that you make will appear in here. So if we could reset to reset our photo again and we click on the crazy effect that will automatically loads if there is some kind of a setting that you've made and that you thought like, Wow, that looks pretty good. I would love to gonna save that. To see our definitely got another photo than making a preset from It is a good thing to do movie style. It's going like that Island's creates, and now we have another preset. So we have crazy effect. We have the movie style and we can go and a blindness now to any kind of photo. Let's just take another one here. And if I would play the movie style or crazy effects, we could use this preset Now on every photo. Let's jump now to snap shots. Let's say that you are editing your photo and you like what you did with it, but you still kind of want to explore a little bit further with it. But you're afraid that you won't remember again how that setting how dis looked like you could just go here to snap shells then and create a snapshot by clicking on the plus sign, and you could give it a name or you could just keep it with the time in the days and click on Create, and then you can get O on an edit. Bergeron, you know, explore a little bit further into some water settings, and you also like that one. You can also then again, make a snapshot from this and you can go ahead and kind of compared to which kind of style you like more the history. You could kind of see all the adjustments that you made, and you can go back in time and undo certain things. It keeps track of everything the reset button, and you have already seen me use it a few times. The recent button does what it says. It resets everything. All the changes and adjustments that you've made when you click on recent, it all goes back to the default settings off the foil. Now, if you accidentally breast on the reset button and it wasn't actually you didn't actually want to do that, you could just go back to your history and just go one step back and everything is all OK again the previous button over here. So we have made all these adjustments here, right? We decrease the blacks a little bit maybe increased the whites. You know, I've done some things, but shadows highlights the country's. We've done all this settings here in this photo. If we will go in a library and we will go to another photo, let's say to this one and we click on previous what the previous buttoned US is. It applies the previous settings that we used in the other photo. We apply it now in this photo. So if I would go and make some adjustments in this vital and I will go now to another photo , well, it's this one and I will go on previous. It's bring the previous settings that I applied for that I used in the previous photo to this one. So that's what those two buttons over here do. So the less two buttons here when I will explain to you what they will do, you will be like, all right, I feel like I've already seen a few functions who do the exact same with Gabi. We can copy all those settings here that we made, and we can copy that and weaken base that onto another photo. So let's go to this one. And if we could go on based. We are basting all of settings onto this photo the difference between copy and previous because you could say, like, well, the previous kind of does the same, right? And in a way, it definitely does Where you're making adjustments to this here and that you're going to another photo and you click on previous. You're just applying the previous settings from that photo onto this one. What you could do we copy that you can't do with previous issue can selectively select what you want. The copy with previous, you're just applying everything. 11. How to Organize Your Photos: workflow off how I organize my photos if you want to use the same one that it's very important that you if your camera that you have the dates in a time and a year correctly set into your camera. So each time that you're taking a photo, that date that time and the year will be written in the mid a day. Now off your photo and when you will upload our import into light room lights, Room will read that and will create a map with the year that it reads when that photo was taken. Now let's imports the rest of the photos here that I had on my as the guards. All right, so we have everything here important now. All the photos that were on the as the card, and you can see it categorized all of them already by the years that those photos were taken. So first of all, I organize my photos by the year. That's the first step and then by the country. So in 2000 and 13 these photos you were taken in Australia. So what I want to do is I want to create a map in 2000 and 13 with Australia and the way to do this east, you can eat a right click. It create Fuller inside 2013 or another way is clicking on the plus sign and you can click on at sub folder and you can name it then Australia, Australia. And that Fuller is now the that empty Fuller is now here into 2000 and 13. Now, I will take this fuller here, which is the day that those photos were taken and I will just drag that into the Australia map and you will get this moving files on disk because we are in fact moving those files on our computer into this map now. And of course I want to do that. So I click on move, and that is now here in Australia. And if we would go to at the 2013 fuller words stored on a computer and I will click on that Fuller, you could see we have also that fuller in Australia because the changes that you make here are also the changes that you will make. Well, you're changing this here. So that's how I order my photos. I have a fuller off the year. Then within the year I have the countries and I would in the country's I just leave the dates. Let me just go over to 2014 year and those sorts were taken in Germany. I just creates a folder inside 2014 Germany and then I just drag and drop that and click Remove and I put those photos into the Germany Fuller. Now I also went in 2013 to New Zealand's. I just creates a map with New Zealand's and then I would take the photos that I have. I would just take the dates when those photos were taken and I would just put them into the New Zealand Fuller and that's it, making things more complicated. It's not always more efficient, so that's why for me, I try to make it as easy as I can because it's more efficient for me. One last thing that I would say if we're in a great for you, we can only see the photos now that are just went on the selected map, you know, we but we didn't have all of them showing all at once and what I would suggest, if you would like to have that, and I definitely like to have, like, an overview off just all of photos in here We have to create, like one lead full or one main fuller, and we have to create those Fuller's make a sub four off them. So the way to do it at East let's just go to Where are Fullers are and let's right click and let's create a new folder even there and let's call it light room, uh, photos. Now let's just one click that and click here on the plus sign and you click on at Folder. So now go to that place where you created that folder, which is in our picture. Fuller and light room photos select that map. It's like Fuller click on it, and that will go now into our Elektrim catalogue. Now let's take all those Fuller's Allen's just dreck and drop them all into the light room photos. Fuller and Electoral do it stink. And now, if we will click on that top fuller, all of the photos that we have are now in a great view, visible And of course, we can go in individually if we select three years CDO's. But if you want to go and see all of them at once, we just now do that by creating that one main folder and creating all the years as a sub four in that folder. So I can highly recommend you to do that because it's, you know, once your library of photos gets got along, its sometimes just nice to kind of brause true them instead of having to go through all of them each one individually. I like doing that lots and also in the picture Fuller. It makes things more organized. You can just go here to the light through photos. You know that all the years or the maps, however you are categorizing your fuller sear are all in just one main fuller. 12. How to Rate & Label Your Photos, and How to Filter Through Them: let me tell you how I rate my photos and how I select the ones that I want the edits. And also with that I will show you how I locate my photos, not using the keyword sort of keyword lists, but the way how I do it. Let's go here into the 2013 on into the Australia. So first of all, of course, I will go on double click on the photo and kind of looked through them. And mostly I always tried to If I have a photo that I kind of like I would go and zooming and see if it's sharp and then if it ISS and I like the photo, I put the flag s speak because I begged that photo as a photo that I actually want it. I give it just a star rating. But the star ratings are just more feeling like, all right, I this photo, I find it kind of like tree stars. Like, for me, This is like the three star kind of photo that I have with this. And then I will go on to the next photo. I would go and zoom in and see if it's sharp and if it is sharp, then I, uh, select from all right. I think it and then I give it sort of kind of feeling. And then I sit like all right, I find like, this is like four stars or something. Mostly I don't go like that high, but I would also say, like three stars the next thing that I do. If I have said Affleck and I have given it like some rating, I used the red color label for photos that I still have to edit. Now let's say that we did already edit this photo. I use a green color label for photos that I have already edited the purple Color label this I use when I have edited photo, but I still want to revision it. I still wanna look at it the next day, or I still want to leave it, like for a couple of days not looking at it. Then I give it a purple color. This artistry colors that I use. Now let's say that I don't like this. The photo I give it a rejection flag. Actually, when you press X, that's the short guts forgery rejection flag. And if you breast on the B button, that's the shortcut for the white flag here. So I would press on the X and said that as a rejection. And if you go out here, you can see that light room made that photo a little bit dim. And that's very helpful, honestly, because it kind of slipped out the ones that you don't like. It kind of makes things more clear. And as an overview, the way how I would filter my photos is very easy. By going to the attributes in the library filled Er, I will go to the attributes and let's say that I want to feel their outs and I want to know all the photos that are still one to edit. I just go here to the color. I click on the red color and Aiken straightaway, see like all right, I still want to edit those photos. If I'm looking for all my finished photos, I would just uncle that no click on the Green label and I just have one finished photo here , and I would see all the finished photos that I have now. At the moment, there's of course there's one. But once your library starts building out with a lot of photos, it's a very quick and easy overview off all the photos that you've finished. And then, of course, if I click on the purple one, I could see all the photos that I still had to revision again. I've just shared here to you how I getting arise my photos and organize them and how I filter my photos. Now, this is honestly very personal for the worst workflow and the work style How I work. It might not be for the type of photography that you do that this could be efficient. You kind of have just now a good understanding of the possibilities off how you could create your own workflow and how you could create your own structure and how you could feel throughout your own photos. You've seen all the options, and now it's just about picking one and not making too complex and using all of them. Oh, yeah, and one thing off course, the flex with the rejection flag. Those are actually photos that I wanted lead off my hard drive. So afterwards, when I'm gonna done through everything I just go and select those photos and I will just click on the Leeds and lacks. You will either asked me through movie from the catalogue, but then the photo's will still be on your hard drive or to delete them from disk and leading them from the disk is, well, removing them from your computer. And obviously that's what at once, uh, those photos with the rejection flag, our photos that I don't once anymore. So I just like on the lead from disk. Now be very sure. I mean, you could still take them out of your been, but what you click on this, those photos will go and be true in off your hard drive. So I just want to click on that. So be sure that you wanted to leave him. Actually, 13. In-Depth Explanation of the Catalog and the Various Options: All right. So one less thing that I want to talk about and I already I started talking about this in the beginning of this lesson is what exactly a catalogue is the deadlock? Is the database off all the information? So first of all, know that what you editing here in light true are not the actual photos or the files that you took with your camera. What light room is doing when importing those photos? It's building a preview from the original file, and that preview distorts within your cattle lock. All the things that you do here, selecting the label, giving it start rating, setting a flag on it, the key awards, or all the adjust adjustments that you make in the develop module. All of those things are actually being stored in the gana lock. That get lucky is like the database off all the adjustments and all the things that you do on the previews from those original files. They always say, I mean, light room is a nun destructive program, which means that you're never actually really touching the original files. And that's the real beauty of flat room, because you can always go back. When you make a mistake, there is no way off. Destroy your photo in light room because you're working in a numb, destructive way you can infect create more than just one cataloguing light room. First of all, if there is no need for you to do it in the following things that I'm going to say, why you could be handy, then I would not really suggested Created out of Kellogg. And reason why is just like I said, I tried to simplify things a lot and creating another. Kinloch is just making things harder. I infect an easier, but you could create another catalogue and reason why that could be handy in some cases is if you really want to separate things. So let's say that you want to separate your work photography and your personal photography onto to whole different Dan Locks the catalogue that I was using before that was again, like Florida scores. But all those photos are not being used here. All that information and all the things that I used all stored on the other get luck. So if I will go to file and I will open the other kettle lock again. I would first of all need to locate it, which is in a light room map and any get locks. And then you can see the ultimate bus processing and editing course catalog. And if I will click on that file here and I click on Open Electoral asks me if I want to open this catalog it because I have to realize a light room. And so now it's opening that order. Get luck. And as you can see now it's loading the folders that we have here in this catalogue and all the lay of the color labels, the flags, the star ratings that we gave to this. It's all loading that information off those photos that we have imported into this. Get a lock. Now, if you want to create a new catalogue, the way to do that is very simple. You just go to file and you click on new Get a lock. Now you will go here to the cattle locks where the deadlocks are stored. Give it a name that makes sense, of course, for why you want to create, act and look and click on creates and light room is going to go and open that. Get a look now and now we have a whole new get lock where we can imports photos, which are Onley stores within this Guettel up now. And when we make adjustments, that information will all be stored within began a lot. And if you want open, the other can lock you just like on the open. Get a lock and then you go back and let's open. Ah, this get lock Example on a relaunch now, Like I said, Honestly, for me, the only reason now that creating another get luck was handy was to separate. This can look here and the catalog that I've already showed you from the course. It's not my catalogue that I use where all my photos are stored. So in this case, it was handed to create a new catalogue to separate those things. So I didn't have to show you all of the honor. Fuller's off my photos. It was a better overview for me, honestly, because I could have done that. But it was a better overview for me to just create a new catalogue and just import import the photos that I needed for this course Besides that, I never really felt the need to create another catalogue. There's some rumors order some people saying that creating another get look after having like dino 100 thousands of photos in the cat look that he could slow down your catalog, having that many in them. But light to me so created and have done research on this that your catalogue will not slow down. If you have, like 100 thousands of photos in it, you will not slow down, so there are not really that many reasons. Instead, if you really have to separate your photos from each other, if you don't have to really do that, then I would not create another catalogue to go a switch between old time. It's just making things more complicated. If you want to, like, divide your work and your personal life photos, then you could also just create a map in here, right. You can create one with work, and then, while with personal life, you could create some structure in that catalogue as well. The bottom line is you could do a lot of things with light room, but don't make things too complicated and try to make it as simplistic as you get for the workflow and for categorizing your foot strike make it as simplistic as you again. 14. How to Import a Catalog to Another Computer, How to Merge two Catalogs: now, one less thing about get locks. Let's say that you have a brand new leapt up and you've been using the current left of the whole time in editing your photos that you have life from on there. But you want to go and start using the brand new left above yours, you will have to move those photos to your new left up. Of course, if you want to go and use them there, just moving the photos alone will remove all off those things here. Ah, well, the edits that you've made in light room and all of the flex and ratings and labels that you gave it, um, it will. It will not be in there when you import just the photos alone in light room. That's because you're not importing catalog from the other computer where you've made all those adjustments on and where that information is stored. So if you want to move your photos from one computer to another, let me show you what you need to do. I've had a lot of trouble with is actually I've messed is a lot of times up, not in a way that I've deleted photos or something, but just that I've ended up with duplicates, and then I had to go into lead all those and but effect is very, very easy to do it. So I'm going to just show you the tree things that you need to tree files that you need. So let's go to the folder where we have our photos stored that we want to import over. And that's the light room photos that map. We want to move that map over to another computer. So first of all have that one. So let's just copy that on our desktop. Let's put down here. The next thing that we need is we need to go into the light room photo and we need the deadlock that we're using here. So go into the get lock folder and the get along that we're using here. If you don't know, you can see up here to catalog that light room has opened, and this is the Kinloch, too. So we need that folder. So let's copy dat nap as well, and let's go with that. And this are the two things that you need. Those two things we need to transfer over on our USB stick and put it into our new computer . So let's say that we have just moved. It's now onto our new computer, so you eat half like no photos on there. That's the first case. Then we just go to file and we go to import from another get lock, click on there and then go and select that get look, which is good luck to juice and that you can see here all those photos and that we just go and click on imports and that those photos are being imported into our new catalogue onto our new computer. And here we go. And everything is just as it was before. Now, obviously. Well, we don't want those. Fuller's just on our desktop, so let's just go and move them, Uh, into the lights room Fuller here. You might have to close like room for that. So let's just put the Catholic Fuller into the ghetto locks and the lights, room photos. I just copy them. So they're still there? Uh, let's just delete that one. Then another scene area could be that you want to merge two catalogues together. So in this leapt up your flight room and you have some photos on there. But you have another leapt up and your flights room on there as well. And you want to merge the get like from this leaped up onto your honor left up into lead room there and you want to merge that can lock together the way to do it at ease. Very simple. It's very easy as well. And you need the same the exact same files you need the deadlock itself, that you want to move over, and then the photos that you have on that computer that you want to move that are in this catalogue. So dose to Fullers, have them again on your USB, And let's say that we have transferred them now here onto our other computer. You just go to file and you go to import from another deadlock. You locate the get luck which is here on our desk top. And there you go to the catalogue, uh, file use, like get luck and then shoes. And so all our photos from that can block appear there. And they're actually a few things that we can do with the photos, because I think on default. It's just on file handling at me photos to gallop without moving. I think on default on that, but the best thing And this, by the way, it will end those photos to this new catalog. But he will leave those photos over there untouched. If we go to this setting here, copy new photos to a new location and imports, we I will copy these photos. And when we imported them, we will move those photos to another folder. So we can already select the fuller that we once so I would go and company that fuller to the picture for where we have all our photos. If you want another one, you just go and click here on juice and you could choose another folder. But in this case, we just leave it through the pictures to that folder. So once all that is done, you just click on imports and life's real will go and import those photos and merchants to get locks together very, very smoothly. And so here you can see that we have this new folder now, um, into our Gavlak. And if we g o and locate that fuller on a computer on a hard drive. We can see this full little gut move now through the pictures. So now you basically you could just go ahead and delete those files. Because if we go to do pictures, you could see the Fuller is in here and the get a lock. We don't need this anymore either, because that's now merged together with our catalogue that we have open here So you can just go ahead and click on delete. And we have just successfully merge to get Lux together. And you've seen now two scenarios on how to do that. So there you go. I hope you enjoy this lesson. Let's go on to the next lesson. 15. Handy Shortcuts in Lightroom: so light from comes with a lot off shortcuts and messing. Those shortcuts will increase your workflow tremendously. I'm going to go and explain you a few very handy, a useful shortcuts that I use a lot and are my favorite ones. And I have also attached documents in discourse that you can follow it. And in that sheet, I have wrote down all of those handy shortcuts downloaded. It's either print it out or having on your computer and have it like next to you and learned them while you are going to light room. Let's start here with the shortcuts hitting the depth button. We will remove the side panels year, the left and the right one. So tap we remove those do Bendel's here, hitting the shifts. Blust Death. We will remove the site panels and the top and a bottom panel here. So shift step. You could see side panels, top and bottom panel removed and heating shifting Step again will make them appear again, hitting the D button year. Real make the toolbar appear or disappear. So it deep and we removed the toolbar. Now hit it again deep, and we make that appear again And by the way, those short guts because we're in a library module now are exactly the same. They will do exactly the same in the develop module. So let's go back to the library module. So if we are in the library module and we have a photo selected hitting D, we opened that photo into the develop module. So hitting the in the library module, we open that photo into the develop module And if we are in the develop module, heating G will bring us back to the library module into the creek view. So G stands for great view. So d we open our photo each of the develop module heating G. We bring that we go back here to the great view. If we press on E, we open that photo into the look view. So let's go back to the great deal. Heating G getting see the sea button is for compare. If we hit that, the second photo that we have that will go and compare to the photo next to it. If you always like that photo alone and you hit, see than it will compare to the photo next to it Sometimes it works, like in this case now, right? If I can't see, you know, those are to say photos, but just differently ended it. But if I will be on this one here, and I would he'd see that would not won't make too much sense, right? So sometimes you might have to. And let's take this photo year. You have that photo, and you want to compare it to that photo. You have to hit control for Windows or commands for make, and then click on that one, although the photo that you want to compare it that photo to and then he'd see to compare it to that photo. So let's go back hitting the G to the grid view. Next on, if we hit in, this will open to survey modes. Now, if you just have one foot was like that. The survey mode doesn't do its function, having one photo the survey mode, so you need to have multiple photos selected for the survey mode. So let's slate tree photos here and let's see it in and you can see now the survey moat opens all those photo and gives kind like an overview for us, and we could even hit in a step. But in here to get, like, a better overview. And this is a very good bunch and actually way you shot the photo shoot with a with a model , and you have, like, 20 photos off that photo shoot that you have to compare to each other in the survey mode. You can lay them all next to each other, and you could kind of click away the ones that you don't like. So I would say, like, you know, this one I don't like too much to compared to the other ones. So I click here on the X, and that one goes away. Now it doesn't remove it or something. It doesn't lead it out of life room. It just removes it out of the survey of moat. Also in the survey mode, you can set Affleck, or you can set a rejection flag, or you can give it a color label, or you could also give it a star rating. So let's go back to the crypt view and let's bring back those side panels hitting the depth when we hit L. Once we dim the lights right you could still see you like a little bit off the side panels here if we press it again with him out everything. But we're just seeing the photos and there. So let's breast l again and we go out of it. So pressing one pressing l once will damage. Just live it, pressing it again. Wolf him out. Everything. Impressing it 1/3 time will bring us back. Let's select the photo by hitting E in here. You can also do that. So if you press l once twice it's got a nice to kind of see, you know, kind of have an overview of what? How your photo looks without all the other distractions going on by the side. Hitting the F button will give us a full screen off the off the photo, which is also a very cool thing. And then if you breasts on the arrows, you can kind of scroll through your photos kind of see, like you full screen what is going on, how you like it in full screen. So let's hit f again. So let's take this photo here. If we press the V button, this will turn the photo. Uh, instantly to black and wife. So let's breastfeed and it will turn it to black and whites. And if you want to bring those colors back, President V. Again and you will bring those scholars back again. It's like a very nice button to have. If you kind of want to see where you're going to your photos in the grid view and you're kind of like going through your photos and you're like, Yeah, well, let's see what that loose in black and white, you just hit V. It will turn it on two black and whites. The next to shortcut is actually a very handy shortcut that I use lots if you hit control or commands plus E, and I'm not gonna do it now. But what this will do is it will open that selected photo into photo shop if you're also gonna work with for yourself. This is like a incredible handy short gut, just hitting control or commands. Plus E will open that selected photo straits into Photoshopped. Hitting the be will bring up the white flag hitting the X will sit the rejection flag, so B is for the wife like X is for the rejection flag. The numbers. 1 to 5 R 40 star rating. So hello. Well, this will be very some of committing, but one is to give it one rating. Two for 2345 for five stars, and if you hit the zero, you'll reset it back again to zero the 6 to 9. Those numbers are forgiving a color label to your photo. So six is for rent. Seven is for yellow. A is for green and so on to the next dollars. There's one more shortcut that I want to show you, and that is heating control or commands and then the slash sign. And this will open the library shortcuts because there is a lot more shortcuts to light room that I've just showed you, and they can all be found within the library. Shortcuts have looked through them. There might be some short cuts that I have not mentioned that you actually find helpful, but I've taken a look through them to, and the one that I explained to you now are for me, really, the ones that are the most helpful and Henny shortcuts to know 16. How to Create Panorama Photos in Lightroom: in this lesson here, I'm gonna show you how to create a panorama and HDR photo in light room. It's not very complex at all to do in life room. Now let's jump straight into it. And let's start with how to create a panorama minimally, you need, of course, to photos to grit panorama. But you can go up to as many as you want. So here, in this example, we're going to use those two photos and stitch them together into one big Panorama photo. Now what I always do when I'm selecting the photos out that I want to stitch together in a panorama, I rate them, and that's kind of like the numbering that I'm giving them. So that's like the first photo, and that's like the second photo. And then I kind of put him into a group, which you can do. You can put photos into a group, so if I look like this now down, it's like into that group here, and you could do that by just clicking on those two photos, patrol or commands and then right clicking it and going into stacking group into stack, and so you have them like into a stack. Now, obviously, you don't have to do it. It's it's not gonna make the panorama look better or anything. It's just going to make it easier for you to find the photos that you want to stitch together. There are a few things that you might have to do first, because you can see looking at this photo here and the other photo the exposure is very different, right? This one is more going to the over exposed, and this one is more going to the other expose photo. So if we stage those two photos together, we'll have a little bit of a weird photo. Now what we want to do is we want to match the exposure from this photo into that photo. So we have to go into the develop module and have the photo here selected that you want the match, the exposure and click on here, and this is from the library module. Adapt and just select the other photo. Here's kind of whites easy to kind of have them sorted out. So this is the 1st 1 just the 2nd 1 If there will be like a lot more photos in this folder . It's kind of like he's just locate them where they are, the better on my photos that you want to stitch to get him. So select those two photos and you go down here in settings how you go to match total exposures and just click on that. You could see if we go to the other photo. We matched that exposure lights room automatically read this exposure and match that exposure into this photo. Now, another thing. Because sometimes the white balance might be different in this one than this one disc aids . The wide Bella's is exactly the same. You want to match that as well. Otherwise you're gonna have also one photo and the other photo that you stitching together . They will boat well different into a complete food and actually trying to create. So you want to match that as well and wait to do that. He's by clicking here on the refers view, and we have this photo here that we have selected here and drag and drop before, though from the film strip to set the referring photo. So now we want to set a refers photo so we just go down here and we drag and drop the one photo, uh, that we also want to create a panorama wit. And he didn't here we could make some or room the active one. That's the one that we're editing. So if we're, you know, changing and the 1st 1 is the one that we use as ah refers board. So that's the one that we actually want to match the white balance with. So in that way, you have, like, an overview you can kind of see, like how close you're coming to matching the white balance into the outer photo. Now, if that all is done, are you have correct that the exposure and wide balance, the way to stitch to orm or photos into a panorama in light room? It's very, very simple. Just go ahead and click the two or the more photos that you have, I click them on right click on it and go to photo merch Bano Rama and click on That, and a light room is gonna build a preview off that panorama. So here is the preview that we have, and we have some projections that we can create our panorama now I would say Just go true, all tree of them and kind of see which one looks best on this panorama. I'm gonna go with perspective for this, uh, photo. And we can have the auto crop unchecked or checked on, and you are other. Crop will already crop off the white of the canvas here, and we'll crop that away already. Bond re warp. You could feel some or off the gamba's kind of warping it, you see and kind of fixing some or parts. But of course, you might end up with some distortions if you're going too much over because we're kind of like bending things a little bit. But a little bit of like of it would actually work. Find and let's on a crop the rest of it, and let's click on merch, and that's really all there is to it and creating a panorama in light room. It's like I said, it's very, very easy to do so once led room created Panorama, we can go and see that we have to bend around my here, and I would just give it, like an extra rating, like three rating. So that's like the final one. And the cool thing is that this is still a raw file. It's a DMG, which is a role file as well. So we can go still in the develop module and edit it as a role file. We still have all the information here from the two photos. Now, you know, we can go bring the highlights down. But so vibrance in there, maybe too much. But we still have all the information is still within their Now you can see in this photo that the sky is very over exposed. And that happens, of course, because I wanted to have the foreground here correctly exposed the sky. He's completely overexposed because of that. Now, I could definitely go into the graduated filter and maybe see if I can bring, you know, some exposure down to kind of bring that information Liberte. But yeah, this doesn't really look too good in here, right? That information is pretty much less. It's too overblown in there. Now, let me show you two finished photo that I have of it and let me go into full screen. You could see the sky is beautifully exposed, and four grounds is also beautifully exposed. Everything is correctly exposed compared to this photo where the sky is just over exposed. But the foreground is correctly exposed. Toe how I did this, I took one correct exports photo, one overexposed photo and one under exposed photo. And I merged them together in light room into an HDR photo. And what you're doing, basically, is your gathering all the information from the over and under and correct exposed photo and you're creating one photo from that. And that way you can have a correct exposed photo in the sky and a correct exports photo here in the foreground. And I did exactly that with this 12 and then I just took those two and I merged them together into a panorama. And that's how I ended up with a correctly exposed photo like this one. Now, before I'm gonna go and show you how to create HDR photos, let me just give you a few tips in how to create a panorama photo in the field. When you're taking the photo itself, let me first of all, tell you, Dad's I don't use light room for creating panoramas. I use photos show for them and in the photo shop section. I will come to show you how to create a panorama in there and old tools available is there way, mawr and way better. The reason why I'm already showing you how to do it here is first of all, if you're only using light room that you know how to do in light room and it's like I said , we're building steps up here. So you already kind of know now what a panorama is, and plus the following tips that I'm going to give you will also teach you some more about how they could panoramas. 17. Field Tips to Take Better Panorama Photos: one of the first steps that I would give to you is to shoot in mineral notes and 90% of the time I shoot in temperature priority and I would say most professional photographer shooting that mood but one of the times that I would switch over to manual more ease for creating a panorama photo and reason why is if you're shooting in one of the priority modes , your light meter will adjust itself the whole time, so each frame that you're taking your light meter will try to read. The light that is happening in the scene at will expose itself to how much light it needs in that photo and a mineral modes. You will not do that. Your your light meter will not do anything. It will just completely listen to you. And that's very helpful. If you don't want to do all the work in light room or in Photoshopped, correcting the exposures in there now you don't per se have to shoot in medical mode. Actually, there is also a new exposure lock button on each DSLR and muralists camera. The thing is, just you can just press that down and then it doesn't really matter that you're shooting in aperture priority or any other priority, Moz Light Meter will not adjust itself when you're framing for another scene. The thing is just that you need to remind yourself that the breast down that button and a mineral moat you don't have to remind yourself off that anymore. So it's kind of like, Well, what you find the most easiest. If you got to know yourself that you might forget that now and then them maybe just use the mental mode. But if the manimal mode is a little bit not working for you, then use the exposure lock button. Another tip here is set your lens amenable mood. Now this is very important. And the reason why if you shoot in automatic focus and you would frame here for this shots and you're focusing more in the far distance, well, that will be in focus, right? And this will be a limit more blurry. If you will go up here and you would focus more in here, then this will be more focused. But the far back will be blurry. So if you will go a stitch dose to photos together, you will just asked with light meter and up with two very different things in focus. Now, if you put your lens in mineral modes, your lens will not adjust itself. That's just again with light meter. It will not adjust itself, so it will just do what you put it to. And it will take that photo if you have problems with mentally setting your focus, something that I do many times is. I framed the first shot that I want for the panorama, and I hahlf razon the shutter button with the lens still in automatic focus. And then I just switch it off. So my camera, but the scene in focus and then I just switch it off and then I don't really have to just my camera anymore. And then I just go on and framed for the other shots. Next step is use a tripod now. You don't per se need to try, but you could take panoramas handles as well. But obviously using a dry pot will give better results and will make things a lot easier now. This step here is very important for creating successful panoramas. Be sure toe overlap in 30% with the honor photo that you want to stitch together into a panorama because basically, when lights room or photo shop is trying to stitch your photos into a panorama, it is reading off from the outer photo where it can stitch things together. But if there's not enough information that is also on the other photo than it will not result always in a correctly stitched together by a rama. 18. How to Create HDR Photos in Lightroom: Let's go and see now how we create a jar Photos in light room. I've already explained a little bit when we were going over how to create a panorama photo What an HDR photo is. But I'm sure that it happened to you that you wanted to have you know, your foreground real exposed and that the sky the bank around was completely blowing out now and I'm sure it also happened the opposite that the background the sky was beautifully exposed. But here the phone foreground is completely under exposed. Now the way to go a fixed, that is, by merging those do into an aged er photo. Now commonly, HDR photos are out of tree photos and that is an overexposed photo, a normal expose photo and on under exposed photo you can infect. Just use the under, exposed and over expose photo you can just use to file as well to create an HDR photo. But you're just giving light room or information here by having tree photos to create an HDR photo with Now the way to go in create an HDR photo is just like a panorama photo. Very simple. So let's just select that the first photo and then shift click to the end photo. And also here, as with Panorama, I number my photos 12 tree and I put him into a stack stacking group into stack. And like I said, You don't have to do this. This is just something that I always do because it just gives me a nice overview of everything. So let's go and select the photos that we want to merge together. Right? Click on it, go to photo merch and click on H D Are so here. We just merged our phone out together in an HDR and, well, it doesn't look like there's much really happened right now. What? We merged it together and we were into the develop module and we start pulling on some adjustments. You will see there will be a big difference. Now let's go over the options here. Out to align. I would have that she's checked on. There might happen. The liberty of slight movements out of line will just auto align those street photos. Well, it will align them. So that's nice. Staff checked on Auto zone. It will already give you like some kind of Ah, starting Boynes off the aged er, I don't really have that checked on de ghosting. Let's first of all, just check on show de ghosting overlay where we can see some off the fixes that lie trimmed it now de ghosting. It might happen, and you could see why it's doing some DIY ghosting here. That there might be some different movements in one of the photos, and de ghosting will kind of figs that with low, medium high we can kind of set how much we want light room to try to fix that de ghosting. In general, I would try to set it as low as you can go with on the reason why is because you might end up with some weird distortions in your photo. So just set inter none or low or the amount that you need. But don't overdo it because there might have been some weird distortions. Let's go and click on merch. All right, so once you've done your waiting for light room to create your aguilar photo, we can see it here and let me also give this now four stars and let's go into the develop module and let me just show you now what we can do here with the sky. So if we would just bring the highlights down, you could see we are completely pulling back or pulling out now a well exposed sky And now we can go and just make some other adjustments in the shadows Tried to expose is now also a bit better are in the blacks Well on. And so going dressed and vibrance or something Maybe a little bit well, off temperature. Anyway, I'm not going to go and find you in all this, but I'm just not trying to show you that we have a lot more information to work with. Now we can pull out a lot more shadow information and make this real exposed. And we have a lot more information into the whites and highlights stample dis completely out. Because if I would now use a graduated builder and would put down like some of the exposure on that credit later fielder, you could see we can even take all this information out of that. So there we go. That's how you can create an HDR photo in light room. Now just s with panoramas. Let me also give you a few tips on taking better age er photos. But let me start first of all by addressing how you can creates bracketing exposures you're camera. 19. How to Take Bracketing Photos & Field Tips to Take Better HDR Photos: So for those who don't know how to shoot multiple photos with different exposures, many cameras have a bracketing function which allows you to set difference Exposures. All you have to do is spreads down the shutter button afterwards and let your camera do its thing. Now, if your Gara doesn't have a bracketing option, no stress at all. You can simply use the exposure compensation button and you just dial one exposure stop up one exposure stub down and have one normal exposed photo. So the first appear that I will give in taking better HDR photos is using a tripod now. Also just as a panorama. You don't infect meet one. You couldn't just take HDR photos hadn't health. But obviously using a tripod will results in way better results. The chance that because you have to take multiple exposures, the chance that you will move a little bit while taking those different exposures is pretty high. So there will be some shakiness. Your photo and using a tripod will just without a doubt, 100% will result in we better age our photos. So the next thing that I will give to you ease know when to use HDR HDR doesn't look great on everything in general. It doesn't look nice on people or on animals. There are some photos off some portrait's with some old people where there are some HDR techniques applied on it, and that can look nice. But in general it looks horrible on people or on animals. HDR works best on landscapes or in our stature, photos or men made objects as a car or plane where you're taking photos for a poor dreads. Yeah, it doesn't look too great on people or on animals. The last appear that I would give Don't overdo it now, I would say Go on Google and typing HDR overdue and you will see a whole range off images off a jar, photos that are just overdone because you have so much information into one file now you could pull things to the extremes, but and it's very easy to do that honestly. So be sure to not overdo it, and I would definitely suggest you to go to Google, check hdr overdue and look how to not do it now. I'm not saying if that's the kind of style that you actually like. I'm not saying that you shouldn't do that, but it doesn't look very natural anymore. All right, so here we just have seen now how to create panoramas and HDR photos in light room. And one thing that I want to add to all of this, I've already said, is about panoramas. Also, just as we age, the are I don't create a in light room. Any effect HDR. I use digital planning, which is HDR, but it's the mental way off blending photos together. But you can only do that in photo shop photo shopped there just better tools and more techniques into having better results and lights. Room has limited options in doing that in the second section, the photo shop section. That's where I will also come to go over panoramas and digital blending and tell you all of techniques and tools in how to do that in for the shop 20. Optimize your Catalog, Camera Raw Cache, and Graphic Processor: in this lesson here, I'm going to show you how toe up the mice, a speed and performance in light room. Plus, there's also a few other additional things that are very good to know about light room and let's start it. First of all, how to back up your catalog. All default. White Room does this automatically, but there are a few of settings, and if light from for some reason doesn't do it automatically, let me jump and show you where you can find those settings. So we go here to edit, and we go down to get a lock settings. Now, down here, you could see back up, back up, get luck, and that you can read once a week when extinct, like true so once a week. This is setting life once a week, when I exit light from light room will ask me and I will show you just in a minute how that would look like to back up the get lock. And I would highly recommend you each time when that shows to do that, because, well, you're backing up your catalog. But there are There's something else that, like from dust at the same time as well. Now let me show you because you can choose. You could choose once a week, once a month, once a day or every time, like from exits. So let's just click on every time Light from exits did show you what will happen now. So just click on OK, and let me exit light room. Now again, I would honestly have this just on once a week, which will be more than enough. You can see here backup Fuller, where you can choose where you want light room to back up your get lock and on defaults ball. The default setting is fine, but if you choose story, if you like them it somewhere else, you can speak another location by Dez here. So first of all election will do treat things now it will bank up your catalog, which is great. It will store it here. But also it will desk into greedy before backing up and up to my scared lock after backing up. So those two things will help run light room a lot smoother once you've done them. First of all, test intrigue. Ready? Basically what light from does he goes to you get look and checks for any corrupted files. So, you know, definitely have that checked on up to my schedule off. However, that is where light room real optimized. You can look so light you will be able to your catalog much easier. You're just putting things back in order for light room through to read your get locked much faster. So definitely dio and have those two things checked up and unjustly going back up. And there you go and have it on once a week and a default. I do think it does that, but when this shows up when you're exiting life room, then don't just go and click. Click that away. It's a very good thing to do, so just go ahead and click on backup. The next step here that I have on increasing the speed in light room built 1 to 1 previews . Now, I have already touched upon this in a previous lesson, but if you have not watched that lesson, let me just quickly explain again what want one previous are and let me also show you how to build 11 previous upon importing. So I'm sure you've noticed When you go to a photo, you click on it and you zoom in that it is loading because what it is doing right now is building or is loading a 1 to 1 preview because we're now zooming to 1 to 1. Now, if you quickly want to edit your photos, this can be kind of annoying because you have to wait each time again for that preview to be built by large room you can infect already have those previews bills, so you don't have to wait each time for light room load. And the way to do that upon importing is you click on imports and by file handling, you can see build previews, and at the moment it said on minimum, if you click on it and you go to 1 to 1 and you go ahead and import your photos, those photos are being built with a 1 to 1 preview. So when you go and you mean you don't have to weigh at all for the photo to render over light room to render that 1 to 1 preview, it is already built, so you could just fastly go to our your photos without having to wait all the time. Now, if you have already photos in your Gavlak that you want to make or that you want to build a 1 to 1 preview on as well, it's very easy to do that. You just select the photo or select the range of photos that you're one by just, you know, shift, click and you go down here to library. And if you go here to previews, you can click on built 1 to 1 previews and the light. You will go ahead and create 1 to 1 previous from this. Now you can also discard those 1121 previews because the thing is building 1 to 1 previews takes a lot more storage on your hard drive than just building minimum previews. That's why, in general I only built 1 to 1 previous upon photos that I'm needing to edit at the moments . But the rest I only import with just the minimum good setting to have checked on, because, sure, you can always go after you're done and discard the 1 to 1 previews. But the chance that you might forget it is pretty high, easier setting, where lecture will automatically discard is 1 to 1 previews after X a month off time east If you go here to edit and you go toe get look settings. If you go to file handling, you can see here automatically discard 1 to 1 previous after one week after one day after 30 days, I do think on defaulted to settle after 30 days. You could set him after one week because generally I think after one week I'm pretty much done after what we Because I've made those previous on them because I am definitely gonna work on them. I don't have to think about this anymore to remove those 1 to 1 previous, because light room will already automatically do that for me. In order for lights room to read the information off raw file. It needs toe Xs that file information and that file information is temporary, stored in something called camera roll. Get going here to edit and then down here to preferences and up here in file handling. You go down here and you could see camera rocket cities now by default light from Has this so one gigabyte, which is not a lot, but it is up to 10 gigabyte and basically you allow light room to read mawr in the camera or kitsch. This could definitely improve the whole performance off light room. Now, don't overdo this. If you go too much, this could actually do more harm than good, actually, because you're just asking a lot more off your hard drive. So just button this up for one gigabyte to 10 gigabyte and they should do a lot good to, ah, light room the next step here that I have. And for this we go back into edits into preferences, and we go to performance this time. Now, in here, you can see use graphic processor. Now, what I would suggest is just check this on restart light room and this good eater improve the performance or flight room. Or you could just make life from buggy. So just restart light room, have that checked on, and the effects are only in the develop module. So in the library model, this doesn't really do anything on that. It's in the develop module that you could either see some improvements off performance or that life from just stars being kind of weird and bugging if that is the gays, and just check that off again. But just go ahead and check it on, going to develop module and go to your photos and drill it a bit off. You edits and see if it is actually improving the performance off light room. If you have a fast video card and checking its on shooting facts, improve the performance off light room. 21. Smart Previews Explained & How to Build Them: let me Dean too. Smart previews right now because they could first of all, improve the performance upon editing your photos in the develop module A lot. But there's another function to smart previews. And let me explain that first, before I dig into how a smart previous can improve the process off editing in a developmental, you can see here original photo what this means. Right now we are editing the original photo or at least a preview off the original photo. If we click on that, you can see build a smart preview for this photo and you can also have some information on here. Now, let's just build a smart preview and you could see one smart preview waas built now in here , you can see original plus smart preview. So from this photo we have right now the original. But we also have the smart preview. So to explain what smart previews are weekend and let me just go and locate this photo showing Explorer. So the photo that were editing right here is this one which smart reviews I could remove the original file but still go and edit that photo in the develop module because I created a smart for you from it so we could keep on anything our photos without actually needing to original files. Let me just go and remove this photo here and let's go back in light room. You could see now that it switched over to smart preview. So right now we have the smart breather here, but we can still go ahead in the develop module and weaken g o and still do our edits in this photo. You see, we still have all this and we could still go ahead and do art. And it's here now. The reason why that could be very handy is when you are traveling so well. Let me First of all, just put the smart preview the original file back You you can just see that life's whom automatically updates is again and also the edits that we've done. So if we remove the original file, the edits that we done in the smart preview and we put the original file back again latch, you will automatically come to update our original file to so all the edits We don't have to go and redo them again. Election will synchronize them together with the original. Now, if you're traveling, creating smart previews could be very, very handy, because you don't have to transfer over all these big raw files onto your external hard drive. You could just create smart previews from a selected range of photos just by selecting all of them and just clicking on this sign now and just clicking on that we can build seven Smart previous from those photos. Transferring those smart previews over on our external hard drive and traveling with them could be very, very handy, because we don't have to transfer all these big files Now there are a few things that you can do it. Smart previews. I can't open Smart preview into Photoshopped, for example. I need the original photo for that. Also, I cannot make HDR photos with Smart previous. I also need the original photo for that also a panorama. You cannot make that with a smart preview. What you can do with a smart preview is just in the develop module and the meta data changes. If you said a flag or star rating, you could do all those things now to show you where the smart previous are located. They are in fact located in your get a lock. So you go down toe where you have your Gavlak on your hard drive on default. It should be in the pictures folder and then you go down to light room and there you see, get locks and click on here. And you could see this Gallup here, the ultimate bus crossing and ending course catalog. And if you have more cattle locks and you don't know which one you have to choose, you just go year and you can see on top here the current catalogue that were using, which is in fact, this one. You're about to go and travel, and you want to move those smart previews onto your external hard drives so you can move those files onto your laptop so you can go in travel. Way to do it is very, very easy. You just g o and take the get a lock. Copy that, uh, Delpy onto your external hard drive so we have that map in here on our left off. We just go into, like, true, and we go now and just load that get lock So we go to open can lock and we go where we have stored that which is on our death stuff, which is here. This is the fuller We double click on it and we click and open this file here and we just go and open that Get Block and Reliance Watt light room with this can Look, we have to relaunch like Drew for that. So we just click on it Lateral will go and re lunch. And the photos that you have created a smart preview from will now be available to edit on . So you could just go and edit and do all your things. Once you're done. Let's say that you're back from your trip, Gil, and dig this file here. You could just go and replace it. You could just go and delete this and we just take our fuller here and we just plays that back and upon opening light room. Now, those smart previews those it is that we've done on those smart for use on our other laptop will now likely will just synchronize those some adjustments that we've made with the original files. Let me come now to the board how they could infect also optimized the performance on your desktop, having them 22. How Smart Previews can Optimize the Performance Speed in Lightroom: smart Previews Day because they use a smaller preview size in the develop module. We can edit a lot faster with it now. We don't have to go and remove the original file and take it off line or something we could infect. Go here up to edits. We go to preferences and in performance. You can see use smart previous instead of originals for image editing. And then also this will allow increased performance but may display decreased quality while editing final output will remain full size squatting. So what that means is, the smart previews the quality off the preview. Because the file is also smaller. The quality of the preview will be a little bit less than the original preview. But if you export the file, it will actually use the high quality off the original file. So it's not like you will decreasing quality or anything. So upon having dis checked on your smart previous stuff original for image editing and Weekly gone okay and you might have to restart lights room for that. If we go to develop Marshall and we start editing, we are in fact using the smart previews. So we go to develop this shoot. Definitely increase the performance. Be aware that also building smart previews. They do take also extra disk space. Not a lots. But if you go and make from all your 10,000 photos and you'll get look smart previews definitely builds up. Definitely builds up. It will become a lot. Oh, yeah. And if you ever want to delete your smart previews, select all the photos in your whole get logged that you have and then you can see here all the photos that are made as a smart preview and all the photos that are not as a smart preview and then you can just go and click on it. You can say Discard tree smart previews and then light. You will just go and discard those smart previews less steep. That I will give you here is special. To optimize your heart drive, try to at least have about 30% off your heart rife free off space because if you're using like 90% of your hard drive, the performance off light room will will drop down a lot. So if life from is very slow for you, and your hard drive is very full. The reason why is because off your hard drive, try to free some space up from your hard drive. You will dramatically see an increase in performance and speed in light room. So there we go. This steps will definitely help you improve the performance speed off light room. If lateral is working very fine for you, then maybe apply a few of them, but you definitely don't have to go into all of them. But if lateral is working or running, very slow your computer or leapt up, go on a plateau steps and you will see an improvement of speeds and performance in light room.