Adobe Lightroom Classic 2021: Edit Photos With A Professional | Tom Kai | Skillshare

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Adobe Lightroom Classic 2021: Edit Photos With A Professional

teacher avatar Tom Kai, Photographer and Graphic Designer

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

4 Lessons (1h 11m)
    • 1. Introduction

    • 2. Let's Edit

    • 3. Your Assignment

    • 4. Final Thoughts

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About This Class

Learn how to edit photos in the brand new 2021 update of Adobe Lightroom Classic, not only that, learn from a decade old veteran of photography! At the end of this course you will have gone through the full professional editing workflow and will have created your own stunning edit!

I am Tom Kai, A professional photographer and graphic designer with an incredible passion for creating. I've been working in the creative field for the past 10 years and in that time I've learned a lot of useful information that I want to share with YOU! I am excited to have you in my course "Adobe Lightroom Classic 2021: Edit Photos With A Professional" If you want to see more of my work, I encourage you to check out my website HERE or feel free to follow me over on instagram @therealtomkai or you can just click HERE

Lightroom can be a very scary program, so many tabs and sliders and it can get overwhelming to the point where you don't know what anything does. I'm here to help you with that and make editing like a professional, as simple and easy as possible! I will walk you through the entire process, from import, to the edit itself, to the final export, I will show everything to you, and not only that, I will also give you some really neat tips and tricks to help save you time during your workflow!

I value my time, but more importantly I value yours. I know how frustrating it can be going from tutorial to tutorial trying to learn tools and techniques individually, and that is why I've made it so that this is the only course you will need to get started with editing photos, because I believe that if you have just one course that teaches it all in the best way possible, then that is all you need, and that's what I am hoping to achieve with this course and I truly believe that this is the only course that you will ever need to get started with editing photos!

This course is made using the most up-to-date version of Lightroom Classic as of November 2020, the brand new Adobe Lightroom Classic 2021 update, however the principles and skills taught in this course can and will apply to other future versions as well. You can also download a free trial of Adobe Lightroom from

In this course you will learn:

  • How to import photos properly into Lightroom
  • How to utilize every panel of the develop module
  • Basic interface of Lightroom
  • How to edit a photo professionally
  • How to remove blemishes and skin imperfection
  • How to whiten eyes
  • How to color grade your photos to give them a professional look
  • How to adjust white balance
  • The importance of proper photo editing (A little goes a long way!)
  • How to save and export your final photo for different platforms/print

If you liked this course, I encourage you to check out this other course that I made!

Also head over to my website to get your own presets that I made! They're cheaper than a cup of coffee! So head over and check it out HERE

Meet Your Teacher

Teacher Profile Image

Tom Kai

Photographer and Graphic Designer


Hello there! My name is Tom and I have been in the creative field for the past 10 years! Over that time I have come to be very well versed in the whole adobe suite but especially photoshop and lightroom! 

I work mainly as a graphic designer and photographer but I also spend a lot of time helping clients and companies revamp their branding, create stunning advertisement material and provide them with a fresh set of creative eyes to solve their creative problems. 

Here on skillshare I will be teaching you what I wish I was taught a decade ago when starting out, from the basics of tools and their hidden features, to the more complex aspects of various content creation both for yourself and for potential clients. 

I encourage you to take a look at my soci... See full profile

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1. Introduction: Lightroom, the quintessential tool, and every photographer's tool belt. It didn't seem quite daunting to a lot of people. There are so many modules and tabs and Wallace sliders that you might not exactly know what they do. I'm here to help with that and play all of editing a photo for you. Have you ever taken a photo into Lightroom and had the final look of it in your head, but you weren't able to make it happen on the screen. Or maybe you're just getting into photography and feel overwhelmed with editing. So you just click Auto and hope for the best, or you play a preset and call it date. But you want to have a little bit more control over what you're doing it. Well, that's what I'm here for, especially of the news 2021 update of Lightroom. And it's easier than ever to edit photos in a professional way. Welcome to Adobe Lightroom classic 20-20 one, edit photos with a professional. My name is Tom Chi and I've been a photographer and graphic designer for almost 12 years now and from the United States and I travel around shooting photos and designing for various clients and companies. I specialize in fashion, lifestyle, and commercial photography. You'll see a few examples of my work on across the screen now. But if you want to see more, head over to my website at www dot and the real Tang or look me up on Instagram at the real Tom Chi. I'm so excited to bring you through this course. Why we'll show you how to take a raw photo and take it from raw to a finished, final high-quality edited photo, ready for a magazine or to print. When I first started out, I was very confused with all the sliders and didn't exactly know what everything did. Nor did I know some really powerful tools that I can use to make my life easier. But today I will show you these tips and tricks to hopefully save you a lot of time and headache as you edit photos. Today, I won't be walking you through the whole process, through every single module in the Develop tab to help them properly export your final photo. My goal is to make this the only Lightroom course you'll need to get started with editing photos. This course is for anyone who wants to get started with editing photos at a professional level. It's a lot more than just clicking a preset. And believe me, it's so much fun when you know what you're doing and have full creative control over what you're creating. Whether you're doing photography as a hobby or you want to make a serious career out of this, this course is for you. So with that said, I hope that you decide to enroll in this course because we have some great things to cover. See you in the next video. 2. Let's Edit: And here we are in Lightroom now, you'll see a couple of photos here. This is from a previous course, but I'm going to show you how we import, how we do everything. So let's get right into it, shall we? So let's go ahead and import our images. If you haven't already, make sure you download them. And there are two images that I've included for you to download will be working with one, and then we'll touch upon the second image and near the end of the course. So let's go ahead click Import. And you're gonna want to go find the folder that you've downloaded. It's going to be called images used by they cover model and we have a studio photo shoot. So make sure you have both of them checked and we're not going to do anything else with the file handling or anything. We're just going to click Import. I'm gonna give library in just a second to get those images in. And there we go. Now you see this one already has a rating of five stars. That doesn't really matter. So let's go ahead and select these three. You're going to hold down shift. And you're gonna make sure you have both selected. If you don't have either selected, you can click one, hold Shift, Click the other, or you can hold down control, and just click both of them. And now what we're gonna do is we're gonna put these two images into a collection. Now why do we do collections? While personally, if you just upload, if you just import photos like this, it's going to end up in all the photos that you've inputted. So here we have all photographs. We have 353, it's going to get lost in there. It's not going to be that organized. We want to be organized and our photo handling. So what we do is we have our two photos here. We're going to click the plus icon here by the collections. And we're gonna create a collection. And we're just going to call this, I'm going to call this a Lightroom course, Images. You can call this whatever you'd like. And what we want to do is make sure we have this option checked here, include selected photos. We want to include the photos we selected. We're going to take them out of all the photographs. I mean, it'll still be there, but we're going to be organizing them into this particular collection. You don't have to worry about making new virtual copies or set target collection, you can just leave that and we're gonna hit create. Now if you did that right, nothing should have changed except for the fact that we now have a collection over here on the left that says Lightroom course Images. And it has these two images. And you can go ahead and click Control or Command D to Deselect. Or if you have these two selected, you can just click off of them and you have them the selected. Now that we have our photos in here, what are we going to do? We're going to edit them, aren't we? So let's go ahead and let's select our first image here, cover model. And this is the image will be working with primarily for today. And I'm really happy both of these photos came from a Hasselblad camera, which are the top of the line cameras for photography, you can get free raw images from the Hasselblad website if you want to practice, more fantastic resource for photographers to practice. So I am going to use this photo here. And let's go ahead up here we have a Develop tab and we're going to click develop. Now really briefly, I will touch upon all of these tabs up here. We have to library, that's where our images are kept. And we have to develop module, which is where we develop our images. Now we have our math. This is going to be a map of where all your images have been taken. So you can have the geographic location, GPS location part of your image if your camera is enabled with that. We can click that, it'll take a second to load. We can just click X and this is going to load up the maps. So if you travel a lot, it can load up wherever you've taken your photos. If you want to find all the photos you've taken from the Sahara desert or all your photos from England. You can go ahead and select them based off of that. We then have the book module up here, which is essentially trying to make a book. This is going to help you, if that's going to help you organize into different type of books, you have a few different samples that you can work with. And you can also set it off to actually get printed from this company blurb that Adobe works with its fantastic. I've actually made books from here a couple of times on the past, and it's very high-quality, highly recommend you look into this, get your images printing. We then have slideshow, which like the name implies, makes you create a slideshow of the images that you have. And you can save this as a video as well. So if you have ever present near photos to anyone, you can create a nice high-quality slideshow using all your photos. You can add text and make it look very, very nice. We then have the print module, which as it implies, is where you print your images. And you can change some of the settings there as well. And let's click that. You can change all the margins, image settings, layout as a lot that we can do here. We won't be touching on this today because we're not going to print any of our images. And then you have web web tab over here. We just let it load. Takes a second. This is going to show you what this would look like on an unsaved web gallery. So if you're wanting to make this be on the web browser, you can save it like so, and can upload it. And it's going to be ready to go for the web. But we're not going to be touching on that today will be living in the Develop tab. Today's last hop back over to the Develop tab. And we're going to touch upon every single module here on the right as the slide. If you click this button here on the right, it'll collapse that she can see more of your image. We can collapse all four of the sides if we want. So we can see the full image, but we can also go ahead and just have all of them open. For the purposes of the beginning portion of this course. I'm actually going to close the left portion of this. We have more real estate here so we can see more of our image, salt. Let's go ahead and let's get started. We're gonna get started with a very fun part here. So first of all, we have the histogram. So what is the histogram? The histogram pretty much shows you where all the colors lie on your photo in relation to their brightness level. So for example, we see a lot of our reds ally in the highlights and white sections are very bright. They're not very dark in this image. However, we have a lot more blues and the science living in the darker side, so they live more in the shadows in this particular image. And we see this image is fairly well expose its fairly in the middle here. But you can also click and drag here if you want to adjust the exposure in any way. And if you ever want to undo something that you've done, just say Control or Command Z and you undo what you just did. Very nice. So you can adjust all of it. The whites, the highlights, black shadows, everything, but will be adjusting it down here because I want to have a little bit more control over it. Now if you want to be able to crop your image, which sometimes you actually have to. You have this first button here, the crop overlay. So for example, let's say you don't want the original crop, but you want it to be specificly, let's see a four by five crop. You see it's going to crop it, it, and make sure you have the exact right crop that you need. Because sometimes depending on what platform you post on or where you are printing, you'll need a specific ratio. Specific aspect ratio that your image needs to be in order for attach really look good in that place. So for this particular image, we're gonna save it as a four by five. Many print shops and websites like four by five. So I'm gonna keep this as a four by five and just move this over a little bit. Keeping in mind the rule of third, so we want to have focal points near these points are possible. So I'm going to have her I be near this point and we're just going to hit done or even hit Enter on your keyboard. There we go. So next we're going to use the Spot Removal tool. And the way we're going to actually zoom in here, we're going to hold down shift because that's going to give us a nice scrubby zooms. We can zoom in a little bit. And let's just zoom in to this part of her face. And there we go. And let's click on our Spot Removal tool. So you have a few different sliders here we have the size, we have the feather, and we have the opacity. So if you hover over any of these, we can see it changing it on the screen there on the left. So if we leave it there on the screen, we can adjust, then we see how it's being adjusted. So I want this to cover our main image here, part that we want to replace. And the feather is going to change, like the name implies how much it's feathered. So if you have 0 feather, it is going to be a very harsh line around it. So let's show it with 0 feather. So we're gonna click there. We're going to sample from this particular point here. And if we put the feather all the way up to 100, you see it's feathered all of it away. It's a little bit hard to see because of these nodes that are in the way. Well, let's just have it be 0 and hit done. And you can't see it too much because it doesn't because it's doing a fairly decent job. But if we go back to our Spot Healing Brush Tool and click on that node and put the feather up to 100 and then click done. We see didn't really do that much this time. So you definitely want to play around with that. See what works for your image. I'm going to have the feathered be about ten for this particular image, I wanted to have a little bit of a feather. And the opacity is how opaque the overlay that you put on is going to be. So if we put this down to one, it can't go down to 0. If we go down to one, it's gonna make it completely opaque thing are not going to see the new overlay that you put. So we want to completely cover up that supported the spot removal tool. We want to remove particular spots. And that is essentially how you do it. You just play around with the size and the feather opacity. Most of the time, I would keep it at 100. So this is one way you can get rid of certain blemishes in your image. So let's go ahead and do a couple more showering. Let's click this one. And Lightroom will use artificial intelligence to sample a spot that is as similar as possible to the spot you're trying to replace. So you can just go around clicking and all the spots that you want to fix. And if you're not happy with words sampling from, you can just click and drag that away. Very nice. Heavy going hinges is z on your keyboard to zoom out. And if you hold on space, you get this hand that comes up and then allows you to move around your image and go to the top here of our image. And don't get every tool in my room does have a shortcut. The shortcut for spot removal is Q signals at key on your keyboard. And you can get right back into that tool. Very nice. I'm just going to remove a couple of these spots. If you want to get even more detailed of the spot removal, you can definitely go into something like Photoshop and fix all of that. But Lightroom is very powerful in the tools that it does have an allows you to do a lot. So let's just go down. Let's take a look at a few more of the spots that we have. We have this spot here. So again, key on the keyboard. And I might move that around a little bit. Lovely. So let's just hit done. And if we hit Z, we can zoom out. And that looks a lot nicer, lot cleaner, shall I say? Lovely. So let's go ahead and move on here. Next we have a red eye correction. Now in this particular image, we don't have any red eyes back in the day when there was flash photography, you will to get this thing where the eyes of your model or subject would become red and look a very, very nasty would not look very nice. So this tool was implemented to help fix that. A got rid of the red eye. But in modern days, very few photos actually have red eyes that actually need correcting. So we're not going to touch that at all today. We have a graduated filter and I'm going to show you what this does. And I'm gonna come back to it and near the end of the edit, because I usually use this at the end, the graduated filter will give you a gradient going across your image. You can just click and drag down shift. It's gonna make it be a straight gradient. And then you can change different things about your image. So I can really darken down all the blacks in the bottom half of my image. I can, I can make it be much darker. So again, this is a very harsh shoe going to the extreme movies in this a lot subtly later on. Usually the way I would use this is I would have this create a subtle yet effect near the bottom or top of an image. This is more of the way that I would use it, and I will be using it later on in this edit. But for now, you can just click on the node, hit delete, and then can just hit done and keep moving. Now, very similar to the graduated filter is the radial filter. And we'll do the exact same thing, except it does it in a radial so you can make an ellipse of anytime we will be using this in this edit today. And if you hold down shift, it, constricts it to just a pure circle. But we'll be coming back to that later on. But I did want to show you because that's right at the top here. And finally in this top little row here, we have our Adjustment Brush. So what this does, it gives you all the flexibility to do localize edits like the radial filter and the graduated filter. But this allows you to paint on where you want to edit and adjust. So for example, let's just click our Adjustment Brush. And let's say, I want to paint on this side of her face. Because let's say I wanted to darken all of the left side of her. So now we have a filter over here. If you hover over the node, it'll show you where you've painted. And then I can go ahead and bring the exposure of that down a little bit, goes a long way. So keep that in mind. And this also has. All the brush adjustments that you would imagine size feather flow. So definitely put the feather up on this. And I used this very sparingly as you see a very bad if done wrong. So you just wanna do a touch in all of these sliders when you do use this adjustment brush. But I will not be using right now. So I'm gonna go ahead and delete that. But it is worth showing you all of these because these are some very powerful tools up here. You can really get in and adjust a specific area that you want. So let's go ahead and let's get started with the actual edit for this image today. Okay, so we're going to touch upon the basic editing tab here. First of all, now you have different treatments here, color or black and white. Once you click black and white, it converts your image to a black and white image. We don't want that today, but that is a fantastic tool. If you do like to edit in black and white. I have many colleagues and friends who prefer shooting and editing in black and white. And they edit in this treatment all the time. But for today we'll be editing in color, but feel free to play around with that. You can get some really cool effects in the black and white treatment space. Next we have the profile, which is essentially the color profile in which you want to edit. So right now we're on camera standard. So that's what comes with the Camera Standard color profile of the camera use on this case, the hustle bland, but you have the Adobe color. And as you see the colors slightly change as you go through all of this. So you can go through all of these, see what works for you. There on you might find something that you really like. And we can just hit Control or Command Z to go all the way back until we have our cameras standard Gungbe editing in the cameras standard color profile because I really liked the color profile of the Hasselblad cameras. So first of all, we have the temperature and the tint. Now, some people get confused with this, but I'm gonna show you how temperature and tin are different. You can really see the colors here, but temperature is the temperature of your photo. Is it more warmer? Is it cold or do you want it to be warmer or colder? So there's a few ways that you can adjust that. You can just click on the slider here and make it cooler or warmer. And as you see, the color of the image is changing. This is a lot cooler. And then this image, you can also double click on the word here and it'll take you back to the original if you don't want to click controller command z. Now what is the temperature and tint doing here? It's adjusting the white balance of your image. So depending on where you share image outside, inside what kind of lights are used, the white balance or the balance, the color that is in the white of your image will be different. It might be shifted toward a warmer color. It might be shifted toward a green or a magenta even. And this is where we fix all of that. So I do see in this original image, it is a warmer tones. I do want to cool it down. But when it comes to white balance, there are some presets that you can use. You can use the As Shot white balance, which is how it was shot in the camera. You can have Lightroom, do its thing and go on auto and see what Lightroom things that should be. But as you see, this looks horrible. Lightroom doesn't always know what is best for an image. And then you have daylight. You can look through all of these and see what works best. Because you might find that a preset will do a good job for you, or you might find it does a very bad job. So what I'm gonna do is I'm going to have a be the custom because I like to have control over this. And now we also have this eyedropper here. So you can use this and select a neutral in your image. So in this image, her share here is fairly neutral. So we click that. And then it does a fairly decent estimate. But as you see, this made this image a little bit greener, yellower, not exactly what I was going for. So we're just going to undo that. And I'm gonna make this customized to the way I think it should look and the way that I want it to look, because you also have to be intentional. If you want the image to have a cooler tone, it can be subtle with it and incorporate your own preference into your image. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to bring the temperature down to about this. It's hard to get a precise number. If you do want a precise number, you can just click on the number here and type it in. I want mine to be around 5600. And you can just hit enter on that. And if you ever want to toggle the before and after of what you've done? There's this little module, well, this little switch at the bottom of each module is going to turn it on and off. So we're going to turn that on and off and see the subtle edit that has been made. You can also see the before and after. If you click this button here with the two y's, it's going to cycle between the before and after views. So you can see them before and after. There's only a slight little change. And you can go back into loop view by clicking that or just by hitting D on your keyword. Lovely. So let's keep going on. And now we have the tonal section. Now what is tone? This is gonna adjust everything that you see up in the histogram as you see, as I hover over here, and it's hovering over the black section up here. So these are all connected. You can adjust the highlights and shadows, the whites, the blacks, contrast and exposure in this section. Now, you may be tempted to click Auto and let Lightroom do its thing, but let's click it. Sometimes it does a good job, sometimes it doesn't. This does a fairly okay job, but I wanted to do it myself. So we're going to undo that. And let's take things into our own hands. Now many times I don't adjust the exposure up here at all. I tend to do that down here and later on in the tone curve. So exposure, I generally don't touch in this slider up here. I don't want to add a little bit more contrast into this image. It's looking a little bit flat for me. So I'm gonna add a little bit of contrast in remembering that up to about 44. Next, let's look at these four sections here. Now the highlights are fairly harsh in this image. And the right over here and in her shirt a little bit. So I'm actually going to crush all the highlights completely. I'm gonna bring that down. Don't want any peaking in the highlights section here. None of that. But we will bring the shadows up. This is where we can also add a little bit more contrast into the image or taken out. So let's bring the shadows up to about 56. And I'm going to show you the before and after and the progress through each section. So once I finished a tone all toggle it on and off again so you see what we're doing and I'm going to explain what we're doing next for the whites. I want to actually bring that up. A bit since request all the highlights, we want to bring a little bit of that back. And we want to increase the overall exposure on fair image a little bit and increasing the whites will actually do that for you. Next, I want to bring the blacks down a little bit. So we add a little bit more contrast back into our image. So let's talk about the before and after. Very nice. You can also click this button here. And you see we're starting to add a little bit more contrast into our image here. Lovely. And that is essentially what we did here. We crush the highlights but brought the whites to up. And then we brought the shadows up but took the blacks down for we created a contrast just by using these adjustments here. So moving on, we now have the presence section. So this is a section that confuses many people and I'll admit it confused me when I first started out. But it can be very simple. So texture is going to adjust the amount of texture that you see in your image of their skin. If there is for it's gonna change the amount of texture that is shown through that. Now this texture slider did not exist when I first started at in photos. This is a recent addition of just a few years ago, and it's actually really helpful. So again, if we zoom in just a little bit, so we see our model skin from close up. We can see exactly all of these sliders are going to do. So if we bring that texture all the way up, you can see it's increasing the contrast on the skin. So if we zoom out, you can see it's making her skin look almost dirty by the amount of texture that it has. It's almost too textured. So a lot of times you're not gonna want to go for 100% of the texture, nor are you going to want to go four minus 100 and texture because it says if you just airbrushed her skin and it does not look very good. So many times what I'll do is for the texture. If it's skin, I might soften it ever so slightly. There we go. If it's hair or for, I might increase the texture by just a little bit more for this image, I want to soften it a little bit, so I'm going to bring that down. Now, clarity does a similar thing to texture, but it does, it took the whole image. It doesn't care if there is skin, it doesn't care if there is any for or hair, it'll do to every part of your image. So let's look at that. Let's put this all the way up as you see and now adjusted it for the background as well, quite a bit, as well as on her neck and her shirt. And this does not look very good. Many times he had not going to use this at 100 at all. And again, if you go to minus 100 and now everything is super washed out, super blurry, and it looks very bad. What we will do is we'll increase the clarity ever so slightly. We'll take it to about plus 14. So little bit of extra clarity. And D Hayes, I use the haze when I'm shooting landscape images and gets rid of a haziness that is created by the atmosphere. So in this particular image, I'm not going to use it, but just to show you what it does, if we pull this up, it gets rid of a lot of the greys in the image and tries to bring in contrast and color does not look good. If you get rid of it or go into the minus, it's going to add more of that Hayes to your image. Both of these extremes look horrible and we're not going to use any of the D Hayes function today. Vibrance and Saturation. These are two sliders that are very similar in what they do, but crucially different. Vibrance. If you're just vibrance and saturation of mainly the skin tones in your image. And it's not going to make the oranges be overly orange because you don't really want to take a saturation slider and pull it all the way to the right. We see her skin is orange. Shorts like an orange. It does not look good. If we bring the vibrance OK. You see it's maintaining more of that skin tone in her face. And the vibrant slider looks for skin and human faces to try and adjust for that. Or we're gonna do is we're actually going to bring the vibrance of the skin down. Or if the overall image down. But not by much, maybe just by this much. So if we talk about the before and after of what we've done here, we can see that we've added a lot more contrast into Image, changed the color a little bit, the white balance, and we're ready to actually move on to our tone curve. Fantastic. So let's go ahead and go back into our normal view. Here are Editing View. And let us continue down into our tone curves such enough it's close up like I have, just click this little triangle and it's going to drop down for you so you can continue editing. Now this is also one section that can be a little bit daunting for people because there are a lot of different buttons here. So the total curve allows you to adjust the tone of every color in your image. The RGB, red, green, blue. So I can come in here, take the blues and ISI, they're two different colors here we have a blue, we have a yellow for the green, we have the green or magenta for the red, we have a red or a cyan type color. So what this does, it allows you to take the blues and shift them towards either a more of a blue or more of a yellow. And you can see that a little bit dramatically in the image here. And if we pull it all the way here we have full blew off. We have here, we have full yellow enough gonna, gonna go full either of these colors. But you can get really specific with your colors here, perfect for color grading. But we're going to start with the first curve here, the parametric curve. And you see here we have very similar thing to what we had before. We had the highlights, the lights, the darks and the shadows. And all we're gonna do is we're going to add a little bit of a dip down here in the darks. Are going to create a mini S curve. I'm going to bring the shadows up a little bit. And if you want to get specific, there are sliders that he can adjust down here. So I'm gonna bring the shadows up to about 45, this particular image, and keep it there for now. I'm gonna go over here to the point curve, which is where I tend to do most of my tone curve editing. Now you might have heard a lot of photographers talking about S curves. What is an S curve? So you might be inclined to come in here and create a major S-curve. We never ever go this intense with it. So let's undo that. But that is essentially what the S curve does. It creates contrast in your image. So let's go ahead and find a note around here. And we're going to bring that down ever so slightly. Ok, so what we're doing is we're bringing every color that is in this section and bringing that down closer to black. Okay, that's what we're doing here. We're going to click a 1 up here and every color here, we want to bring that up closer to white. And you can see that changing in the histogram up here, because I'm dragging this up, certain colors are moving to the right. Very nice. And another thing I'm going to want to do is I'm going to want to bring the black level up. I want to get that nice type of magazine look to this image. So if we bring this up, you can see that the blacks start disappearing and turning into great over doom of this. We're saying every black is now going to be this gray color. But I'm not gonna go the intense. I just want to bring it up just a little bit. And that's all I'm going to do today. I'm not going to touch on the red, green, or blue. We're gonna do some color grading later on. But before the color grading tab was a thing, I will do most of my color grading within the tone curve. But I'm going to hit upon a new color grading tab, which we see down here in just a second. But if we toggle this on and off, this is quite a substantial change that we've made just using this tone curve. Fantastic, I like it. So let's keep going. Okay. Let's go down to the hue, saturation and luminance slider. Now it's very easy to get carried away of the hue saturation luminance slider. But I'll go through each of these. So for the hue and allows you to change the hue of one color to another color. So, for example, if we have read, we can change the red to be more of a magenta or a yellow, yellow, orange here, we can change the orange to be more of a red or yellow, green to yellow to be more of an orange or green and so on. You can see all the colors or you can play around with all of them. For this particular edit, I'm not really going to touch upon the Whew. I'm very happy with the colors that are here, but I will be changing the colors a little bit in the color grading tab. What I will touch upon, it is a saturation here. Because the red is a very saturated. We see it's peeking over here. It's a little bit too in your face right now. So I'm gonna actually bring that down. And to bring that down to about minus 15 restaurant during the orange is a lot of red and orange and the back. And then bring the orange down as well. And there we go a little bit, goes a long way. So if we toggle now that before and after, we see how it's really taken away, the harshness of the red and orange and you see the red is not peaking anymore. So that's nice. Now, not going to adjust the luminaires, but I will touch upon it so you know what it is. Luminance is the amount of black or white in a particular colour. So for example, if I can go on to my red slider here, and I drag it to the left. I'm adding black to all the red that is in the image. And you can see that being changed in the actual image as I go towards black. And if I go the other way, I'm adding white into that color. As you can see. So this can be a very powerful tool as well. I use luminance sometimes for my images depending on what the images, if it calls for it. Because sometimes. I need to have more black and a certain color. I use a lot when it comes to skies because sometimes I want the sky to pop a little bit more. So I would add a little bit of white into the blues or into the awkward and really bring life to the sky. But in this image I'm not really going to touch upon the luminance. What is a really powerful tool? I highly recommend you play around with it. It is fantastic. Now we're going to get to one of my favorite new sections of the new 20-20 one update of Adobe Lightroom, which is fantastic. And that is the color grading tab. Again, it's really easy to get carried away with this and also to get overwhelmed by it. So let's go ahead and touch upon this really quickly. And let me teach you what all of these sliders, circles, buttons, everything means. Ok. So looking at this, initially we have our mid tones, we have our highlights and shadows, the three main parts of our image. What this allows you to do, it allows you at a particular color to that section of your image. So I can decide to add green to all my shadow so I can click and drag. And now I put this particular green into all the shadows on my image. That doesn't look very good, does it? So if we just undo that, let's look at something else here. We can go ahead and add a magenta to our highlights if we want. Now if we also add green to our shadows, we now have green and our shadows, magenta inner highlights and our image looks terrible and my right. So you're never going to want to go full 100% on the saturation on this. This is a very subtle and fine art. But if you master this is gonna make an images look a million times better. It's going to take it to the next level. Now I personally love to add some cooler colors from blue into my shadows. So I'm gonna find a nice blue, something like this. And then I'm going to pull back on the saturation. So the closer you pull to the middle, the less saturation you have. And if you hold down shift, it's going to walk in that color and then allow you to just adjust a saturation. Saturation to be around 20%. And you can see the numbers above. The color wheel there does h, h2 to eight, S and L 0. So H is a whew of 228 are saturation is at 20 for about 20%, and L is the luminance. How do we adjust the illuminance? That is where this slider down here comes into play. And again, just like with the luminance like I showed you before, it'll add black or white to that color. So as you've seen and dragging it down, I'm adding black to the blues and the channels are not nominating white to the blues and shadows. So what I'm going to do is on that a little bit of white, maybe just about a plus eight on that. And now if we toggle the color grading tab, as added, a very nice little touch of that blue into the shadows of our image were very nice. Now let's go ahead and look at all of these tabs up here right now, I'm in this first habit shows all three of these. Biden go and adjust each of these separately so I can go to shadows and adjust as more specifically get more fine tune. Or I can go ahead and adjust the mid tones, highlights. Or I can click this and give a global color grade to my image. So instead of applying it to just the shadow is just a metal under just the highlights. I can now play one color to the whole image. For example, if I want to add an orange to everything that's been added to everything, not just a highlight, not just the shadow, but to everything. So sometimes you might want to add a full on global colour grade. I'm not going to do one for this image. But that is one really good, powerful tool that you can use. Now if you do want to learn more about collaborating, I do have a full course on justice color grading panel here in light room. So you can head over to my teacher page and check that out. That is a fantastic course. So if you want to learn more about this, let's go back to this first half here with all three of these in here. And let's look at this blending and balance. So for example, let's say in the highlights I have some orange. Lovely. So what blending is going to do is going to adjust how much blending happens between the color that you've picked and the original image. So if I'm pulling this over to the left, you might not notice any change. But if I toggle between the left and the right eye now see on the left has no blending. So now the blues are very pronounced in the shadows and the oranges are more pronounced and no highlights. If I get rid of the blending or pull it up to 100, it's fully blended that away now. So I generally tend to keep the blending near the middle. And I adjust the colors over here. I changed the saturation, everything here. I tend to not really worry about the blending, not too much. Now balance is going to be what is being favored in your color grading. So if I toggle this over to the left, more of the shadows will be pronounced more of the balloon and shadow. If I start toggling this over to the right, more of the orange and the highlights are being pronounced in our image. So this gives you a little bit more freedom and flexibility in how you want your image to look. So if I want the image to look a little cooler than this, I can just bring the balance a little bit to the left. Have it favor more of the blues and the shadows? Hovering that to about minus, minus 13 will be nice. So now before and after writing a really nice color tone to this, naturally want to get rid of this orange and the highlight. Having a little bit is fine, but I don't really want any of that in this particular edit. Lovely. So let us continue with our edit and let's go down to the detail section. So if we scroll down, we're now in the details section now we have a few, few more sliders here. Lightroom is full of sliders. So you can click and drag different parts of our image that we want to look at the detail of. So let's just look at any part of her skin is fine. Let's just look at that. So this is going to let you anchor to one part of your photo so you see the detail if you want to. So I'm going to want to do is I'm going to bring a little bit more sharpness and back to the image. Just a little bit. Stay very subtle with this. You don't wanna go full on sharpened because it's not going to look very good. Especially once you zoom in. You can adjust the radius and a detail of the sharpening, but I generally tend to not touch that too much. I just change the amount of sharpening. But if you don't want to play around with that, you can change the radius at which that sharpening is going to happen. And you can also change the amount of detail that is going to be sharpened. So it can have a lot of detail vibrato in, um, I bring the detail up to about 20 for this image, since we have a lot of skin here. So it's going to help that. And masking, I generally don't touch that at all. It's not too important at this point. Now if you're shooting at night or in a dark room, your image might have a lot of noise, a lot of different doesn't just particle that does not look very good, that comes from shooting and a low light situation. Second, reduce that noise by adding some luminance in, in this image. We don't really need it, but I'll show you what it does. The more you bring this up, it's more, it's going to blur out and blend together some of the colors. So if we have this fully to 100, you can see it's really changed a lot of the detail in our image and blended it together looking very swirly, almost liquidity. So we're going to have the offer not gonna do any luminance in here. But if you have a low light image, I highly recommend you play around of luminance and bring it up to between 2030, the maximum. You don't wanna go too far with the noise reduction. Otherwise your image will look very, very bad. And then you can also go ahead and adjust the noise reduction of the color. Changed the detail and smoothness. We don't really need to touch upon any of these today. So we can keep on going to our lens correction, Netherlands correction depending on what lens issue with certain things will be applied to your image. Now, for this particular image, we don't want to enable profile correction, but let's say we do. Second enable this social shot with a Hasselblad. Here's a model that CD macro, here's a lens and everything that it was shot with. And you can change the profile. So if you want to make this lens look like another lens, this is where you can go ahead and do that. It can also go ahead and fix any distortion that happened with your lens. So many times if you use a wide-angle lens or more of a fish islands, it'll create warping around the sides of your image if you're shooting buildings or landscape, even people. So this can help you fix that distortion and get a nicer looking image. This is also where you can add some vignetting cure image. But I generally tend to not add anything yet at this part of my edit or image. So let's undo that and let's turn off Profile Corrections. If you want to correct anything that happens with the lens and the camera, this is where you can do it. I'm not going to do for this image today. So we can go ahead and close that section. Next we have the transformed section, which is very self-explanatory, lets you transform your image, but it gets a lot more in 3. Your Assignment: Now we've come to the fun part of the course where I give you your assignment. That's right, I'm giving an assignment and I want you to do is find or take one of your own raw images and edit it, bring it into Lightroom, import it, and go through every single module of the Develop tab, just like we did in this course. And feel free to follow along with the course as the edit your own photo. Bring it in goal through all of these sections here from basic to Tone Curve. Play around with the HSL section here. And definitely we want to see what you can do with the color grading. That's a very fun area all the way to the detail. If you want to do any lens correction or transformation, you are free to do so that's not required. But also play around with a little bit with the effects on the calibration. I want to see what you can do and how you can make a nice image. What I want you to do is to upload a before and after image. So before you start editing, just export the before image as a JPEG. And then when you finish, just export your final image if you're stuck on how to export, refer back to the end of the last video. To see how to do that. I'm really excited to see what you can do. Get creative, have fun, and show your creativity. And the next video, I'm going to go over some final thoughts. 4. Final Thoughts: Guess what? You've made it through my course, Adobe Lightroom classic 20-20 one, edit photos with a professional and that's awesome. Not only that you ended up with your own edited photos, as well as the skills and know-how to go out and continue editing photos with confidence and ease. Makes sure that you do the assignment for this course. You can refer to the previous video, but I just want to reiterate that I really want to see what you can do with these techniques. I did try my best to pare down editing photos as long as the whole Lightroom interface to its simplest elements. And I believe that you can create something truly awesome. I would like to mention that I'm selling Lightroom presets right now phrase special introductory price over on my website. So head over to www dot the real Tom, four slash presets to get your presets to date, these are perfect 2s and Lightroom to play preset color grades to your images that I've already made and tested over many years of practice and use. And you know, what's the best part? Both preset packs are cheaper than a cup of coffee. I really want to give you guys the means to get great results in your edits and photos. If you've enjoyed this course, I encourage you to leave a review and rating as that helps me out and feel free to check out my teacher page to see other Lightroom and Photoshop courses that I've made, ranging from beginner courses all the way to mastery level courses. And it's been a pleasure teaching you today and I hope to see you again in a future course. Take it easy.