Adobe Lightroom 5. The Library And Develop Modules. | Santi Kierulf | Skillshare

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Adobe Lightroom 5. The Library And Develop Modules.

teacher avatar Santi Kierulf, Scientific Photographer & Photography Teacher

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

29 Lessons (1h 38m)
    • 1. Trailer

    • 2. The Lightroom 5 Interface.

    • 3. Creating A New Catalog.

    • 4. Importing Our Images.

    • 5. Copyright Information.

    • 6. Working in Grid & Loupe View Modes.

    • 7. Working in the Compare View Mode.

    • 8. Working in the Survey View Mode.

    • 9. Stars, Flags & Labels.

    • 10. Collections.

    • 11. Searching Images In The Library Module.

    • 12. Exporting Our Images.

    • 13. The Develop Module Interface.

    • 14. Loupe and Before & After views.

    • 15. The Crop & Straighten Tools.

    • 16. The spot removal tool.

    • 17. Red Eye Correction.

    • 18. Graduated Filter.

    • 19. Radial Filter.

    • 20. Adjustment Brush.

    • 21. White Balance.

    • 22. Tone Adjustments.

    • 23. Presence Adjustments.

    • 24. Tone Curve.

    • 25. HSL - Colour - B&W.

    • 26. Split Toning.

    • 27. Detail.

    • 28. Lens Corrections.

    • 29. Effects.

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About This Class

Adobe Lightroom 5 gives photographers, no matter what our level is, all the tools needed for having a complete workflow with our photographs. From importing, organizing and editing our pictures to publishing them in the form of a book, social networks, web galleries or slideshows.

In this course you'll learn the fundamental concepts and techniques for mastering Lightroom from scratch, focusing on the two most important modules: Library and Develop.

Of course you will also learn the new features of this new version, always at your own pace, and with the warantee of having a professional photographer teaching you.

Meet Your Teacher

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Santi Kierulf

Scientific Photographer & Photography Teacher


I started in the world of photography and design in 2006, and after graduating in a degree Biology, I decided to undergo an MSc in Biological Photography & Imaging in Nottingham University.

As a photographer I specialise in nature photography and everything which it includes, from landscapes, animals or plants to what can be seen under a scanning electron microscope, as well as studio work, sports photography or social photography.

As a designer I create business cards, scientific posters, as well as books and magazines both in paper and in digital format.

After having the immense fortune of travelling to more than ten countries both in Europe and America I am currently based in Bristol, U.K.

See full profile

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2. The Lightroom 5 Interface.: - welcome to this light room five course before we begin, - it's well worth it to get to know. - The software's interface like room is divided into modules in like Room five. - There are seven modules, - whereas in other versions that were less the models are library. - Develop map book slideshow and Quentin Webb, - and each of these modules will be divided into panels. - There will be a left panel, - a central panel, - which will occupy most of the screen with our images, - a right panel at a bottom one with a slide show off all over images in two different - modules. - There will also be a smaller task bar under the central panel in which we will be able to - radar images, - flak them or skip through the different view modes available amongst other things. - But we will see this in the following clips. - The library module is very useful to see all of the images that make up more catalogue. - It's left pedal will show all the folders that holder images, - and through it we will also be able to publish our images in Facebook or Flickr, - for example. - On the other hand, - the right panel would let us at keywords, - descriptions or metadata to our images. - The develop module is where we will spend 90% of four time in light room. - There we will edit crop compared to black and white. - Add effects or calibrate or camera, - among other things. - The left panel of this module is home to our collections and will show the changes We have - applied for images, - just to name a few. - Where is the right panel is the one that holds all the tools needed for editing or images, - but we'll go deeper into that in a while. - The map module will be used tagger images on the map, - either manually or through our cameras. - GPS function in a more automatic way in the book module like room gives us the opportunity - off creating a book through a website court blurb or just to export it with a pdf format - and printed elsewhere. - As we can see, - the right panel holds all the tools needed for customizing or book any way we want. - In this like show module, - we will be able to create, - as you have guessed, - a slight show again, - we will be able to export it as a PdF or a video, - and it will work pretty much the same as the book module, - with the ride Penhall holding older tools needed for this. - We're getting near the end now with the print module there, - we will be able to customize her images before we send them to print. - We can set the size of the image. - It's proportions, - paper type watermarks, - resolutions and any other things you can think off to get a perfect printed image. - If you're still print your images, - that is. - And last but not least, - we have the Web module, - which is quite useful if we have a website and don't really know much about coding or HTML - or CSS. - And we want to just create a simple and functional gallery with our images. - As you can see, - there are a number of templates on the left panel and quite a few tools on the right. - One has always so, - as you have probably guessed, - live room allows us to do pretty much anything we want with our images, - from importing them to editing, - placing them on a map, - printing them either in a book or a pdf, - or even creating a small gallery for a Web site. - The best thing about light room is that it's easy to use it. - Just go too smoothly from the first module to the last one. - In an intuitive and user friendly way, - I guarantee you that in a couple of hours you will be cruising your way around light room. - Is that easy? 3. Creating A New Catalog.: - In this clip, - we will learn how to create a new catalogue. - Creating one is pretty much the first thing you should do. - After installing light room, - this catalog would allow live room to know where our images are. - For example, - that could be in her own computer's hard drive on external one or maybe any use, - be memory. - And because, - like Room doesn't really store the images is such it needs a catalogue to tell it where - they physically are. - So let's begin. - In my case, - we can see that the name of my catalogue is cattle ago. - Lied Room five Santa care over. - It's in Spanish, - and if we hope for over the name with a cursor, - we can see where it is stored within my computer. - So to create a new one or we have to do is quick file you catalog, - and here we see the one that's already there. - But we're going to create one right next to our own one. - So we choose the name of our new catalogue in this case, - light from five course and just click safe. - So after doing this leg room will start again. - But this time, - with no pictures as there can't be no pictures in a brand new catalog, - right, - So to fill it, - we have to import images to it. - But we'll explain that later. - So once we have our two catalogues, - one next to the other, - we can go to their parent folder and see that one is significantly larger than the other - one. - And that makes sense because my original catalogues holds the information of every image - I've ever taken, - so it's no surprise that it has a file size of more than 900 megabytes. - Where is their new kala will barely be bigger than a few megabytes. - So if we have more than one catalogue and we want to switch between them, - what we have to do is click on file open recent and select the one we want and Click - Relaunch and we'll be back where we started. - So having more than one kind of log my work for you in case you're working with a - particular client or maybe decide to store all your sport images or vacation images under - different catalogs, - it will also depend on your computers performance. - As you saw, - one single catalogue can get pretty massive, - so you might want to go with the divide and conquer approach that that's entirely up to you - . 4. Importing Our Images.: - So once we have created our catalogue, - the next logical step is to put some images in it, - and this is done with the import function. - But before we start importing, - it's worth it to set some parameters that I think are very helpful for the import process. - For that, - we have to click edit preferences on a PC or line room preferences on a Mac and once the - dialogue box appears, - would go to the general Tap and select Show Import Dialog. - When in my memory card is detected this way, - every time we insert a memory card like room will ask us if we want to import its images or - not. - Some cameras will create names from folders inside the memory cards. - For example, - one folder might be called Underscore 0001 and hold 999 images, - and once 999 images are taken, - a new folder, - Cold underscore 002 might be created and so on. - So it might be a good idea to tell light room to ignore these folding names, - and you do that by clicking ignore camera generated folder names when name in folders and - Finally, - some cameras might take pictures in raw and J pick former at the same time. - So if you want to import, - are images in those two different formats. - All we have to do is click treat J pic files next to raw files as separate photos. - That way we'll have a fire with same name, - for example. - 0001 but with different extension. - 000 juan dot naff in K genre Nick and user or 0001 dot j. - Beck. - So once all these changes have been done, - we click OK, - and we're ready to move on. - If we know insert a memory card with some images inside it, - like room will show us this dialog box. - But this is the compact view of it which, - although it gives us valuable information and it doesn't really show any of the images. - So to change this, - all we have to do is click on the arrow in the lower left corner and there we have it, - the full version of the import dialog box. - In this dialog box, - we can clearly see what we saw earlier left Central and a right panel as well. - It's a small task bar on the central one. - We could also describe it as a from what and where workflow. - So because our images are in and it's the car, - they appear on the devices category, - whereas if we were importing them from our internal hard drive, - for example, - they would appear under the file category. - Also, - if we're importing them from our internal hard drive, - make sure to check include sub folders or you might not find your images at all, - which can be quite frustrating. - So let's go back to her memory card and see what happens. - You'll notice that move and add are grayed out, - and we're only allowed to copy or images with a D and G format or copy them without it. - So what is the difference between these two options? - Well, - copying your images, - it's a DMG format will lower the file size off them, - and you'll still be able to work with them pretty much as if they were raw files. - Where it's just choosing copy will just clone your role files or J picks. - If for some reason you're using those to your destination folder and end up with a larger - folder, - size. - So what about the other two options moving and adding well moving is basically cutting. - You take one image, - you move it out of the original place and you place it in its destination. - By doing this, - you're always working with one single copy of your image. - Notice how I said cloning when I was explaining the copy function. - So there's always a chance of that image getting lost in your computers limbo if anything - fails. - And that's why it's great out when working with a memory card. - Finally, - adding this might seem the same is copying, - but it isn't. - Adding leaves the image in its original place and adds it to the catalogue. - Remember when I said that the catalogue doesn't have the images themselves, - so if you think about it, - there's a good reason for graying that option out. - We're working with a memory card that is, - they are the sign to be filled and raised constantly, - like a hard drive so adding doesn't clone anything. - It just tell slide rooms catalogue where the single original image is. - So once we have decided which of these options were going to use, - we now have to decide how many images were going to be exploring. - For example, - we might have a very big memory car, - maybe 16 or 32 gigs or even more, - and we might be doing some photographic projects. - So maybe yesterday we imported some of those images. - We kept taking pictures the following day and imported those and so on until the memory - card got filled up. - So in that case, - you want to choose new photos from the upper part of the central panel. - But maybe you're a bit more careful than that and have a bit of ah habit of importing mawr - often than just once a week for whatever might happen. - So in that case, - you'll choose all photos, - and then you either tick the box next to old photos in the upper left part of the panel, - or you click check all into Task Bar under the central panel. - But what happens if you just want to import some of your new photos instead? - All of them Well, - in that case, - you want to select those images individually, - either by clicking on the 1st 1 and then pressing control on a PC or Commander Mak and then - tick in the box in the upper left quadrant or by selecting the 1st 1 person, - the shift key clicking on the last one and ticking the box again. - Notice how the first method would let you choose images that are non consecutive. - Where's the second method will let you choose images that are in a consecutive order pretty - much the same as when selecting any fire light of their own, - a PC or a Mac. - While this thing to point out is that you can also soared the images either by their - capture time, - media type or others and also increase or decrease their thumbnail sizes. - So once we know what images will be importing, - it's time to the site where we'll be importing them, - too. - But you can see the right panel has many tools for doing this, - but we'll be using the Guan cold destination. - If we click on it, - we'll see a list of drives or places where we can export it, - images to. - In my case, - I'm using a Samsung External hard drive, - so that's where my images will be going. - If I clean the iro and expand assumption drive, - we can see that I organized my images by date. - So I just have to go to the date we're in and either create a new folder by right clicking - or just selecting an existent folder. - Once that has been decided, - hole that's left to do is quick import. 5. Copyright Information.: - another detail worth mentioning deals with our copyright information. - It's always a good practice to add it to the metadata inner images, - and this is done quite easily. - Thanks the white room. - Of course, - it can be done after our images have been imported, - but it might be a good idea to do it before we click the import button. - This does the moral, - logical way of doing it. - In my opinion, - if we look at the tools in the right panel of them, - Poor Dialog box will notice. - One called Applied during Import here will be able to apply various developed presets. - Meta data and keywords in this case will be using the metadata section. - If I click on the arrows to the right of it, - you'll see I already have warned metadata Preset called Santa. - Care off with all my copyright information, - but in your case you won't have anything in. - We'll have to create one. - You do this by clicking on New, - which will make a new window appear, - which will have quiet a lot of options and spaces to fill that. - Don't worry, - we'll we'll only be filling a handful of them. - The first thing we have to fill is the precept name for this example. - I lame it. - Copyright your name, - by the way, - it's now a good moment to explain that to create the copyright symbol, - you have to press auld and Serial 169 If you're on a PC or auction J. - If you're on the Mac now that that's been clarified, - we can keep filling boxes. - We can now scroll down to where it says I PTC copyright their willful. - The copyright box with copyright. - Your name will decide what copyright status and images will have in this case copyrighted, - but you could choose public domain if you want your images to be freely distributed. - If we have a website or even a blawg with our images, - we can write down the U R L for it under the copyright in four u R l box. - That way, - people wouldn't know. - Why'd your copyright details and where they are on the Web on their I. - P. - T. - C. - Creator Box will write our name and our email, - and that's the least, - well, - input there. - But of course, - you can also add her address, - country, - website and many more. - But name and email should always be there. - As I said earlier, - there are many more boxes to be filled, - and you can do that if you wish, - but by feeling these were pretty good to go, - we can now click Create an earned you copyright preset will be available embedded into our - images. - So we have to do is selected under the applied your name Port tool, - and our images will be ready to go. - It's always a good idea to add some copyright information to our images, - especially if we like to share them online, - either on a social network or your own website, - as they're gonna always be someone who uses your images without your consent. - And by doing this that someone has no excuse not to contact you and use your images legally - . - The last thing I want to mention about them poor dialog box or keywords s we'll see in the - following clips. - Keywords are quite important when trying to organize and put some order in our picture of - catalogue. - Of course, - there are many ways of working with cures, - but I personally like to add the year the picture who had taken the camera that we're - taking with and any other significant details. - For example, - in this case where the images are of the Spanish cycling tournament, - I'll write sports cycling and Spain once that stunned that information, - along with the copyright we talked about earlier, - will be embedded into our images once we click on import. 6. Working in Grid & Loupe View Modes.: - as mentioned earlier. - The library module allows us to see all the images that make up our catalogue, - and four different ways in this clip will focus on the grid and Lou views. - In this case, - we're seeing our images in the grid view. - And just like we didn't import module, - we can change the thumbnail size of four images just my dragon, - this lighter situated in the toss bar. - It's worth mentioning that this task bar can customize any way you want, - just by selecting what appears on it by clicking on the iro located at the right of it. - But you can see in my case I have selected everything except navigate and slide show. - So now let's switch to the loop you to see what it has to offer. - You can see that the main difference with the grid view is that it only shows us one image - . - Where is the grid view could show us up to 60 images at once. - The love you is very useful when we went to observe the fine details of an image, - as its name implies. - So the lip you will let assume into the image up to a magnification of 11 to 1, - which means that each pixel on your image will be magnified 11 times in your monitor to - switch between these two loads, - we can either do it by clicking on their icons, - double clicking on the image or by using shortcuts. - Lied room. - It's full of them. - So it might be a good idea to grab some PanAm paper now and jock some of them down. - In this case, - the shortcut for the grid view is that geeky. - Where is the shortcut for the love You? - Is the IKI? - Because you want to see all the short cuts like Room has to offer in its library module. - Just click on help and library module shark. - It's so a typical workflow between these two view types would be to selector images among - all the other images in the grid view and then switched to love you to take a closer look. - I mentioned earlier the magnification capabilities of this beauty, - but that almost going to explain how the panels can disappear in order to give us a more - screen real estate. - The way to do this is my person shift and tap. - Once you do this, - all you will be left with is your image and your task bar underneath it, - making the image the absolute center of attention. 7. Working in the Compare View Mode.: - So I've already explained that the grid view is good for looking at many images at once, - and that they love you is good for scrutinising a single image. - But what happens when you have two or three images that are quite similar, - one next to the other, - like the ones taken in burst mode? - Well, - you could always switch between them in the loop view. - But like room has an easier way of tackling this problem. - By using the compare view mode in this clip will start by comparing these to him. - It is for River, - and then we'll add 1/3 1 to the comparison. - We'll start by selecting or two images in this case, - just selecting one president shift and selecting the following one and then clicking on the - X Y icon in the task bar or prison to seek E, - which stands for compare. - If we navigate through them, - we see that they are assumed in at the same level and that if you move one to the left, - you'll do the same with the other one. - And this happens because the lock icon appears it's locked, - so if we click on it, - will a Luckett and then we'll be able to navigate and soon through each image without - affecting the other one. - I've already mentioned that person shift and tap makes every panel disappear. - But for this case, - we need to see the film strip because we're working with more than one image so we can - still make the left and right panel disappear just by person to tap key. - If we now look closely at her images by assuming in, - we can see that they don't look so similar anymore. - Us. - One of them has a person in the background, - which is a very common thing when taking long exposure shots like this one so they much - without our friend is going to be the keeper. - And for this we have to make sure that it's under the select category, - not the candidate. - The Keeper label will always be on the left side of the compare view mode. - So in the case of Keeper Image is on the right side. - All we have to do is click on the icon in the task bar, - which has an X and A Y and two opposite arrows, - and this will make our images switch places. - But What if we want to compare three or more images? - Well, - in that case, - all we do is select our previous selected image, - the one on the left press control or command and click on our new candidates. - This might sound like complicating things, - but if you look closely at the filmstrip, - you'll see that there's a black diamond in the upper right part in one image and a white - one and another one. - This black diamond represents a candidate. - Where is the white one? - Will mark are selected image. - Once we have more candidates, - we simply change from one to the other, - using the arrows and task bar until we decide which images to keep. 8. Working in the Survey View Mode.: - The last few mode available in the library module is serving mode, - which can be accessed either by clicking on its icon or by pressing the N key. - This view mode might seem similar to the grid view mode, - in the sense that you can see many images at once. - But in this mold you can select how many images you see at once, - like the Greenview mode. - In this clips example, - we have a group of images that form a theme. - It could be flowers, - or it could be colors or maybe even nature. - But as you can see, - there are also some images that don't follow this theme, - and this is where the survey mode comes in handy. - We'll start off by selecting all the images and our folder by pressing control A in a PC or - command A in the Mac and then removing the ones that don't fall over theme. - Doing this as a simple is clicking on the X, - situated in the lower right corner of each picture. - Because there are so many pictures in the central panel, - I'm going to get rid of the two side panels just by person to tap King just toe work a bit - more comfortably, - and once our out of theme images are gone, - I'm going to use another one of light rooms. - Cool characteristics. - I'm going to dim the lights or turn them off. - Doing this helps you concentrate even more on the images, - and it's done by person. - The Elke, - which stands for light president ones, - will dim the lights and president again. - We'll turn them off and president 1/3 time. - We'll turn them back on. - So when do you use this view mode? - Well, - I personally use it when I've already edited my images and are getting ready to explore - them. - In those cases, - I generally have a handful of possible keepers, - and having them all in my screen without lives on or side panels just helps me concentrate - more on the small differences between them. - And eventually removing them will help me narrow my decision even more. - But it's always That's just how it works for me. - Of course, 9. Stars, Flags & Labels.: - once we have created our catalogue, - important some images and added a bit of metadata to them, - it's a good idea to start attacking them in some way in order to keep them organized. - US. - Our catalogue grows more and more, - but before we start, - I like to point out that you can apply these tax in any of like modules. - But in my opinion, - it's always better to do it in a library module, - mainly because the images you see in it have not yet been rendered. - So the whole process of tagging and image and moving along to the next one is faster in - this module. - Okay, - so let's begin the first method we're going to use his stars. - Tagging with stars is a very subjective way, - working simply because some people might be too hard in their work and never give any image - more than three stars. - And some might consider every image they have the surface of five star treatment. - So have that in mind. - When you see this clip, - the star rating can go from 0 to 5 stars, - and you can either select an image and click on the stars in the task bar or press the keys - 0 to 5. - Having in mind that, - given an image, - a rating of zero stars means that you're removing any stars rating from that image. - Another way of tagen or pictures is by flagging them a suspect or assess rejected. - This method is less subjective than the previous one in that you can either like the image - being intra about it or dislike it, - so to speak. - The short cuts for doing this r P X and you which stand for pick, - reject an on pick, - respectively. - As always, - you can also click on the icons in the task bar. - If you don't want to use the shortcuts, - so to pick an image, - all you do is select it. - Press P, - and you'll notice that a white flag will appear in the upper left corner of the image in - the central panel. - To unpick it, - you press you and to market has rejected you Press X, - and now a black flat will appear and the image will be great out know the difference - between unpick in and rejecting one is to undo the picking or to act mutually. - Where's the other one is used to discard the image. - And finally, - the last way of tagging or images is by labeling them with a color again. - There isn't any right way of doing this. - It's all up to you to decide which color describes what, - and I'll explain this in a second. - But first, - let me tell you the shortcuts for labelling images that you can see. - Lie room gives us five colors toe work with, - but only four sharp cuts for them, - which are the keys 6 to 9 six will tag your images. - This red seven is yellow, - eight is green and nine is blue. - Unfortunately for the vile color, - it has no shortcut. - The pictures in this folder clearly have two themes. - One can be birds, - and the other one can be architectures. - So to me, - it makes sense to apply a green label toe all the images with birds on them because green - means nature for me. - But it could perfectly mean architecture to you. - So now select never image with a bird on it shouldn't be too difficult. - Just choose the 1st 1 press shift and click on the last one to have the label. - You either click on the green rectangle in the task bar or prison. - Eight Key. - Once that is done, - all that's left is to select the architecture pictures and tack them. - Is violet again? - Totally subjective? - One last thing I'd like to explain is how to rotate your images. - As you can see here, - some of the images appear Asif in landscape mode, - although they were taken in portrait mode. - If you hover your mouse over any image, - you'll notice that some icons appear. - The ones we're interested in are the ones in the lower left and right corner, - respectively. - The's curved arrows will help us rotate or images either clockwise or counterclockwise. - So if we select every image we want to rotate and then hover or mouse over one of them and - click on the curved arrow. - We'll see how all are selected. - Images rotate simultaneously, - saving us a lot of time. - And finally, - I'd like to point out that all these tagging methods can be additive. - That is, - you can have a pick image with four stars and a green label or unpicked image with two - stars and a red one. - This creates quite a huge number of possibilities for organizing or images. - Personally, - I like to tag my images each time I important them that way. - I work with a limited number every time instead of one day realizing that I have 10,000 - images and that it's time to organize them, - which, - of course, - it's a nearly impossible task to do. - Don't forget that light groom is not only about editing, - it's also about organizing and creating a database of your images, - and that database will be much more accessible by using the's simple tools. 10. Collections.: - one of the last ways we have to organize or images in the library module is by creating - collections. - This will be useful when you want to have all your images with a similar theme together, - even if these pictures are in different folders throughout your hard drive. - In this case, - we can see that in this folder there are over 500 pictures, - but they all have the same theme. - Football. - If we browse the left panel, - we can see the collections category. - If we expand this tool by clicking, - the arrow on the left will notice there is something already. - They're called Smart Collections, - which has already been created by light room by default. - Expanding that smart collection will show us a few categories, - including video files or the pictures we took in the past month, - to name a few. - But in this clip will be creating or own brand new collection. - So let's get to it. - In this clip, - I'll be working with different sport images, - some of football and some of rugby. - So what I want to do is create a group of collections or collections set if we click on the - plus sign to the right of the collection tool will be able to sell Econ option called - Create Collection. - Set, - click on it and put a name to it. - In this case, - sports Click, - Create and notice how like room has created a new box icon called Sports. - Inside This Box, - I'll be adding different sports pictures. - So what's The box has been created. - I have to create a collection to go inside of it. - If I go back to my original folder of football images, - I will select all of them by clicking Control A on a PC or command A on a Mac and click - create collection in the collections tool. - I'll name it football, - and I want to tell, - like room to include it inside a collection set, - which is the one we created a minute ago. - I take the box and choose the one cold sports. - Remember how we previously selected all of her football images? - Well, - that was known to make the workflow a bit faster. - So if you notice under the options category, - there's an option to include selected photos. - Just take the box and click Create. - Doing This will automatically create a new collection called Football with around 500 - images under the collection set Cold Sports. - It starts to make sense now. - Right now, - I'm going to add more sport images to my said, - but this time I'll name it. - Rugby s. - I have another folder with around 300 rugby images. - Again, - I select all of those images. - I click create collection, - name it rugby, - place it inside a collection set cold sports take include selected photos and click create - . - Remember how like room had already created a s'more collection for us? - Well, - I'm going to create my own now. - I will do this by clicking on the plus sign and selecting Create smart collection. - Personally, - I take a lot of sport pictures, - and it makes sense for my core flow to have a quick access to them. - So my smart collection will be named Best Board pictures, - and I want to include it inside my collection set of sports. - Nothing new here until now. - But if you take a close look at the options available in a smart collection, - you'll notice that we have the option to choose what qualities those images need to have in - order to make it into our smart collection. - because I name it best sport pictures. - It makes sense to at least make those images have ah picked status and a key ward, - which says sports notice how, - I said. - And they have to have those two qualities. - So if you click on the first set of options, - you can make yourself on 80 of what the menu is pretty extensive, - right? - As I said, - I'll be choosing the one called pick Flag, - followed by IHS and then by flag. - I now need to add my second quality. - So I click on the plus sign on the right and select other metadata and then keywords then - contains, - and then I type sport and click create. - This will obviously create a new smart collection, - but notice how it has much fewer images that are previous collections and how suddenly - there are pictures of all their sports apart from football and rugby. - Well, - it makes sense because I told Lightning to only choose the images with a picked status that - is decent images and also images of sports. - I didn't care if there were football, - rugby or tennis. - I was just interested in having the best pictures of sports. - I had in my hard drive, - and that's exactly what leg room did. - So I hope this clip has showed you how easily you can organize your best pictures off - whatever theme you choose. - Imagine you get a call from someone asking for a good picture of fencing. - Well, - in that case, - you don't have to browse through thousands of pictures of fencing. - Just go to the smart collection and chances are you'll have a good fence and picture there - if you've got the skills that is. 11. Searching Images In The Library Module.: - as we saw in the previous clips like Room is much more than just a new image editor. - It's also a great tool for creating a searchable database of your images. - To access it, - we have to be in the grid view mode, - and there you'll notice something called the Library filter, - which will let us search or images via the text attributes or metadata they contain. - If I connect my Samsung hard drive to my computer, - we can see that there are over 17,000 images on the nick on D 7000 folder alone. - So being able to search these images easily is quite an advantage. - The first thing we have to do is still like a where to search. - If the folder Nikon D 7000 is highlighted than every image, - there will be considered for a search. - But if I selected 2000 and 13 February folder Onley, - it's 2000 plus images will be considered for a search, - so let's begin using text to do our search. - Clicking on the drop down box will display a list of things to look for. - It can either be any searchable field file names, - keywords or metadata among all those as you can see. - And although you really want to narrow your search, - I would stick with any searchable field next and quite similar to the options given when - creating a smart collection. - I can choose if I want these images to contain or not contain and end or finish with - whatever I decide to type in the search box. - Also, - all these options can be selected by clicking on the magnifying glass that appears in the - search box. - All that's left to do now it's select what folder will want to search and what we want to - search. - Let's imagine. - I want to search all my sports images taken in 2013. - Well, - I have to do is select the folder name 2013 and type sports in the search box. - Doing this will give me a result of more than 1900 images. - So the first thing glad room is telling me here is you've taken more than 1900 images of - sports in 2013 or a T least you've added the keyword sports to some 1900 pictures. - Okay, - so now that I have all my sports images rounded up, - I want to select the better once the ones that I picked over the year, - and you might be thinking that we already did this in the collections clip. - But let's do it again and see what happens. - If I click on attributes, - I can select any flag attributes ratings equal or greater than whatever number of stars, - caller attributes and even file types like ritual copies or videos. - And, - of course, - I can add those attributes between them. - I could select a flag to three star yellow color emits, - but I'll stick to the basics here and select picked images. - So when I click on the white flag, - I get a result of 55 images in total. - And if I quickly go to collections, - I see that my best sport pictures are also 55 which makes perfect sense. - The system works if I now we raise sports in my search box, - I get a new result. - I'll get my flagged images of 2013 no matter what keywords they have just the ones that I - picked over the year, - the ones that I really like. - But perhaps the most interesting tool of the library filter is the metadata section. - Here you'll be able to narrow your search based on, - of course, - metadata, - thanks to its different columns like Room will generally come with four different columns - to do our metadata surge. - But we can ADM. - Or delete them by clicking on the drop down menu to the right of each column. - There. - We can also add some more options, - but the really interesting part of this is had the drop down menu of the left. - If I click on that like Groom gives me a list of pretty much anything you can imagine. - Let's see an example. - Let's imagine I want to select all my images taken with a Nikon D 7000 in the year 2013 - within 18 to 55 mil lens and with a shutter speed of 1/100 of a second. - All I have to do is select date camera lens and shutter speed and, - like groom percents me a list of my cameras, - some of my lenses and all the shutter speeds from the fastest to the slowest I've used in - 2013 and next to each of them a number. - That number will be the amount of pictures that fall into this category. - In this example, - that number is 100 100 images taken. - With those conditions, - you have to agree with me that you really can get much narrower than that your searches. 12. Exporting Our Images.: - Although the export prose is happens after the image has been edited, - the export button is situated at the library module right next to the import button. - So before we leave the library module, - I thought it was a good idea to wrap it up by explaining the exporting process. - So in this case, - I have these images not too many, - as you can see, - and I will read it to them. - And now all that's left is to select which ones are going to be exported. - I couldn't like thes three images here, - so I also like them my president control and a PC or command on the Mac and clicking on - them. - Now I have to open the export module. - This is done by click and file export on a PC or like room export on a Mac or using the - shortcut control shift E. - On a PC or command shift E. - On the Mac. - Was he explored, - window was open. - We have to tell, - like where we want to export images to. - If we click on the drop down menu, - you'll see that our images can be exported toe are hard. - Drive a CD or DVD or an email address if this example will focus on exporting them to a - hard drive, - which will probably be what we do 99% of the time anyway. - So under the export location tab, - I'm going to select the sport to specific folder, - and I'm going to choose which one. - In this case, - I'll just choose the desktop. - I could also put them in a sub folder or add to a catalogue. - The existing file section is quite important because sometimes in the same folder, - you can end up with two images with same name, - and this can cause a problem. - So notice how Light writes in Capital Letters override without warning. - You should Onley select this option if you're sure that all the images in a folder have a - unique name or if you really, - really want to override your images. - But the safest way to go is just to tell Lie room to ask what to do Regarding the file - naming, - You can leave everything un selected, - and your images will be explored with a name like DSC underscores. - Serious heroes were one, - for example, - but I like just like my own custom name and at a number next to it because most of my - exports are sequences of either a football match or waves on the beach or whatever. - So I would call these images wings slash 01 and so on. - But of course, - Lied Room gives us many options, - so it's entirely up to you. - We won't be exporting any video file, - so we'll skip that tab and move on to the file settings one. - Here you can decide what type of file you want your image to be. - I'll select a J pic format with 100% quality, - and it's RGB color space. - As always, - Lied Room gives us a huge number of options, - so do play around and choose the one that works best for you. - You can also limit the file size of your exported picture in case your senate it via email - or uploading it to a social network, - which generally will require smaller file size on the image sizing tab Weaken. - Either leave the images size as it is, - or recite it to whatever dimensions will want. - In this case, - I wonder a long edge to be a 4000 pixels because I'm not going to print them I'll just - select a resolution of 72 pixels bridge. - I'm not going to worry about the rest of tap says they're not that important for this - example. - But do take a look at them. - If you're interested, - you will also notice that on the upper left part of the screen there are some presets. - Some have already been created by light room by default, - and some of them can be created by you. - If you know how your workflow is, - it might be worth it to save a preset of your own. - But in my case, - I never do, - because I always add some changes to my images when exporting them. - So no to exports are the same for me. - Finally, - all that's left for you to do is click Export and go to the folder to see the results 13. The Develop Module Interface.: - Okay, - So once we've left behind the library module and no, - all we needed to know about it, - it's time to head into the develop module. - This module is probably the reason why you bought lied room in the first place. - I mean, - it's the place where all the editing and artistic parts of your photography take place. - And as I said earlier, - the place where you will spend 90% of your time while in, - like room. - So although this module still has the same panel distribution as the previous one, - some things will change because we're editing now, - not organizing anymore. - But you can see the left panel is still holds our collections. - But now we also have a set of presets in case we want to edit or images quickly a snapshot - tool, - which is a version of our image that we like and to which we can always go back and our - history tool, - which will give us a list of every change we've applied to our images since we imported it - . - But the panel will be used in most in this module is the right one. - This is the one that holds all the tools needed for editing or pictures in 1000 different - ways and as everything in light room. - It goes from the most used to the more specific tools. - There are a couple of ways of opening these tools. - The 1st 1 is to just click on the arrow to the right of them and expand each one. - The 2nd 1 is to president all key on a PC or option key on a Mac and then click on the - arrow to the right to expand them. - You will notice that by doing this, - the arrows next to each tool change from a solid wide to a serious of small dots, - and that this will only let you have one tool open at a time. - Which it's useful if you're only using one tool, - but not so much if you're using more than one. - There are three ways of browsing through these tools. - You can either do it by clicking on the slider to the right and scrolling down, - or if you have a three months button by using the wheel of your mouse. - Or we can use this shortcut. - Slide room gives us there are nine tools, - so there will be nine shortcuts, - which are control or command, - followed by the numbers 0 to 9. - For example, - If I want to open the history Graham, - tool out pressed control zero. - And if I want to open the tone curve tool, - I'll press control, - too. - Pressing control to again will now close it. - Another detail to have in minus that small square to the left of each tool. - You'll notice that if you hover your mouse over it, - you'll get a message to turn off the adjustment. - So in this case, - I can see how my image looks without the lens correction effect and decide how it works - best for me. 14. Loupe and Before & After views.: - before we go straight into editing are pictures. - I want to show you the view modes available in this module because this module is not about - organizing, - but about seeing that before and after. - We only have to view types instead of four. - And for that matter, - one of them is the loop view. - So we really have one new characteristic here, - so out center on that one. - We can think of the before and after view mode as a close relative of the library's module - . - Compare of you. - So if I select an image and click on this view mode, - one of two things might happen. - We either get a divided image or we get two images, - one next to the other. - This will depend on the type of view inside this view. - Let me explain. - If I click on the arrow to the right of the icon, - I'll get four different options to choose from before, - after left, - right and top bottom and before, - after left right split and top bottom split. - Choosing the 1st 2 ones will show you two versions of the same image, - one next to the other or one on top of the other choosing the other option will divide the - image either vertically or horizontally. - I personally prefer this one because the image appears bigger in my screen. - You'll notice three new icons in the task bar, - which will let you copy settings from one version to the other. - If you click on the 1st 1 you'll be able to copy before setting. - So after this way you'll have two views of the original version. - The 2nd 1 will do the opposite, - given us two views of the edited version. - And finally, - the last one will let us swap between the edited version on the left and the original on - the right. - No matter what view option I choose, - if I assume into one image, - the other image or the other half will move simultaneously, - just like in the library modules. - Compare view off course. - You can decide what soon level to apply just by clicking on the drop down display located - in the Navigator tool. - The look of you won't be discussed here, - I said, - works the same way as in the library module. - So the before and after view type is quite useful when editing or images as it lets us see - the changes compared to its original version, - either on a 1 to 1 ratio or with a very high soon level. 15. The Crop & Straighten Tools.: - The first tool I will be explaining is the crop or relatable, - but you can see it's the 1st 1 situated in that toolbar between the hissed a gram and the - basic adjustments tool. - And if you hover your mouse over it, - like room will tell you that the shortcut for it is the R key. - In this case, - I chose a crooked image of London's Millennium Bridge, - which will be straightening as soon as I click on it to other options. - Appear the aspect tool and the angle tool. - First, - I'll explain the angle tool so we click on the crop tool, - and a frame has appear on top of our image, - probably with an overlay of the rule of thirds law. - But we can change this overlay just by pressing the okey, - but you can see him come browse the different geometrical overlays, - including the golden ratio or a selection of the most common sizes for printed photographs - . - These overlays might help us when reframing our image and like group, - but nothing beats applying them. - When taking our pictures in the same frame. - You'll notice that if you hover your mouse close to its corners, - a small, - curved arrow will appear if we click and hold and move the mouse to the left or the right. - Weaken manually rotate image. - But there's another manual way of doing this just by dragging the angle slider either to - the left or right to change the degrees. - The last way of working with this tool is by doing an automatic correction of the angle. - For that, - you have to click on the straight and tool and notice how a bubble level icon will appear - When doing this well you have to do is drag it to a part of the image, - and you know it straight, - either horizontal or vertical. - In this case, - I'm going to use the buildings next to ST Paul's Cathedral's as a straight vertical guide - and click on one corner drag pedal, - allude to them and let go. - This method is useful when you have a lot of buildings, - for example. - But if you had a crooked image hone in a beach, - you could use the horizon to level that one out. - I'm going to choose another picture now, - just to make sure you get to understand how to use this tool in this one, - I'm going to strain in the image, - both using the Big Ben. - It's a vertical guide and what seems to be the Blackfriars braids as a horizontal one. - So again, - I click on the crop overlay tool. - So, - like this straight into a wall quicker. - One corner of the Big Ben tracked the line parallel to it. - Let go, - and I get a straight picture if I do the same. - But using the bridge is a horizontal guide. - I get the same results as suspected, - so now it's time to start using the aspect tool. - This will let us resize her image by changing its aspect. - And by doing this you'll see that you can make your image more interesting or guide the - viewers eyes to where you want again. - There will be manual and automatic ways of re sizing our pictures, - and again, - I'll start by showing the manual ways. - Remember those curved arrows that appear when you, - Harvard over damage and allowed us to rotate it well. - In this case, - we want to get not a curved arrow, - but two arrows pointing in opposite directions. - These ones, - if you click and drag the image now, - you'll notice how you're able to resize it and probably the first time you do this. - The proportions won't change because the lock icon appears. - It's locked, - but if I click on it and unlock it, - I'll be able to resize them. - It's applying the proportions I want, - so that's one manual way of doing this. - But there's another one. - If you click on the crop frame tool next, - a word says Aspect, - I ruler icon will appear. - And if you click on any part of the image, - you'll be able to draw frame, - which ones you let go will be resulting frame for that picture again. - If you unlock the lock icon, - you'll be able to move that frame without keeping any proportions. - And now, - for the automatic way of doing this, - if I click on the double arrows next to the loch, - I come. - A list of different proportions and sizes will appear anything from a square picture with a - 1 to 1 proportion into a panoramic one of 16 by nine or your own custom proportions in case - you're trying to make your images specific size and it's always ones you choose. - One. - You can resize it any way you like, - and Finally, - what do we want to change the orientation of a picture from portrait to landscape or vice - versa. - It can be done, - of course, - but it might be a little tricky the first few times we do it. - Once we have our fraying with the proportions who want, - we have to drag 1/4 to its opposite corner like this. - And just as it seems the frame is about to disappear. - Keep dragging. - Eventually, - the frame will have changed its orientation from landscape to portrayed or vice versa. - One thing I haven't mentioned until now is how to apply these changes or how to return or - pictures to their original size. - Applying the changes this is easy is reframing and quicken, - enter or gotten in the lower right corner and returning everything to its original state as - easy as pressing control, - See on a PC or command, - see on a Mac or selecting original next to the lock icon 16. The spot removal tool.: - when working with cameras with interchangeable lenses. - It's very, - very common to end up with some dust, - and our sensors and that dust will show up its spots In her pictures. - We can see how clean or sensor is by either taking a picture of a white background on F 22 - or like in this example, - by changing from one picture to the other and seeing that there are a group of spots in the - same place which, - unfortunately will not correspond to the bird in the sky but to dust spots. - Obviously, - the best way to get rid of this spots is by physically cleaning your senses camera. - But there's also the digital approach, - which involves using the spot removal tool. - So if I assume in into this picture, - I can clearly see where the problem is. - And unfortunately, - there are more than just a few spots. - But there's no need to worry, - as this tool works pretty well. - Most of the time, - the spot removal tool is located to the right of the crop tool and can be selected either - by clicking on it or my person to cuchi. - Was the tools been selected? - We have two options. - We can either clone or hell. - Let's see the differences between them. - If we select clone us a removal method, - what will happen is that it will select an area of the image near the affected part and - pasted over the dust spot. - If you're not able to see these two circles person, - the H Key will help you. - It's always a good idea to have a brush size almost twice as big as a dust spot and then a - pass ity of between 75 100 to get the best results. - So after clicking on top of for a spot, - we've managed to remove it. - But now let's compare this to the healing option. - Well, - we have to do is click on hell. - And although it's hard to see, - there is a difference, - because healing will make up this year's of pixels based on the information around the dust - spot. - Instead of cloning a set of pixels and pasting that I'm top so generally healing will give - best results. - So once we decided to hell instead of clone, - all we have to do is continue clicking on top of each spot, - and I'd like to use this moment to talk about a new feature in Light from five, - which is called visualize spots and that can be activated either by clicking on it or by - pressing the A key. - Once we activated, - our picture will turn into black and white, - and by dragging this lighter next to it, - we can increase or decrease its sensitivity. - But I'll just leave it in this position. - The visualized spots to is pretty useful for detecting spots that would otherwise not be - visible on. - Also, - don't worry too much if you see a huge number of spots when you drag it slider as there - will always be some amount of dust in your sensor. - So now that the image is clean and because I have another one next to it with same spots, - I'm going to copy these settings and pays them on. - My other picture to copy are setting, - so we have to do spreads control shift, - see on a PC or command shift. - See on a Mac on the window will appear, - asking us which settings will want to copy. - In this case, - I'll just select spot removal, - but as you can see, - you can copy pretty much every setting available. - Once this is done, - just click on copy. - Go to the next image and press control Shift V or command shift V, - and it's always if you don't want to remember these shortcuts, - you can click on the copy button in the lower part left panel and then on paste next to it - . - Once all this is done, - I'll click on the before and after views and as we can see in my image, - is now dust free. 17. Red Eye Correction.: - The next tool I'd like to talk about is the red eye removal tool. - Red eyes on a picture are a common problem that generally happens when a picture is taken - on a dark conditions and also when the flash disquiet near the lens to eliminate the red - eye effect. - The first thing we're going to do assume in into the image as much as we can just like this - and select the red eye correction tool. - By the way, - there's no shotgun for this tool. - Once we click on it, - like room shows us a small message saying Drag from the center of the eye or click to use - current size. - Okay, - so that's pretty clear then, - just like when removing a dust spot, - you wanted to create a circle at Lisa's twice as big. - Well, - in this case, - you want your circle to be as big as the iris. - I'm now using the wheel of my mouse to enlarge the circle, - but you can also click and drag with your left button. - What do you have your circle? - Just let go over the button and leg room will work its magic. - Generally, - the results will be satisfactory and This is not a very demanding process, - but because you don't like the final result. - You can always change the pupil size or dark and the spot manually by using the sliders. - That was easy, - wasn't it? 18. Graduated Filter.: - the graduated filter tool is the digital equivalent of those pieces of glasses are tinted - on 1/2 on untainted on the other one, - which are placed in front of the camera lens, - especially when taking landscape pictures as they can help the photographer and get a good - exposition, - even under very different light conditions, - like a bright sky in a dark ground. - In this example, - although the general images correctly exposed, - I want to darken the sky a bit just to give it a more dramatically, - but without exaggerating. - For this, - I have to select the graduated filter, - either by clicking on its icon or by pressing the M key and place it on top of my image. - As you can see, - I can rotate it freely just by moving. - The mouse left a ride. - But if I wanted to keep it parallel to the side frames of my picture, - I just have to press the shift key so I'll do that and drag the lower part of it a bit - below the horizon. - As you can see, - this filter is divided in two parts. - Top part in this case will be where the effects take place, - with more strength. - Where's the bottom part? - Will be a sort of transition area. - Let me show you. - No, - it is that when you opened a graduated filter tool, - it comes with a series of all their tools to modify. - Let me decrease the exposure just so I can make a point here. - You see that when I decrease the exposure, - the upper part of the filter gets really, - really under exposed, - whereas nothing happens in the lower part of it. - That's what I meant by effects and transition areas. - So now it's time to apply some changes, - and I'll make sure I just applied into the sky, - not the land. - Once I've applied the values I want, - I'll try to blend the lower part of the sky with the upper part of the land. - Why? - I'm happy with that. - I want to add one final touch to this filter. - If you look at the bottom of the filters tools, - there's something there cold color. - If I click on it, - I can apply whatever caller I choose to the filter and therefore to the sky. - Obviously, - a green cast would have looked to nice in the sky, - so choose a blue cast with a saturation of around 95% and click on the X symbol. - But what if I also wanted to make some small changes in the trees in this image? - Well, - it's pretty much every tool in light room. - These can be additive, - that is, - you can apply the same tool more than once. - So to do this, - I click on the graduated filter tool again. - Drag it to the bottom of my image. - And the interesting part here is that somehow, - like Room knows that the to transition areas have to touch. - So there's no need to turn the filter on 180 degrees because the effect area will be on the - bottom of the image. - Now, - I don't want to finish this clip without mentioning how to delete the filter in case you - don't want it anymore. - As you can see, - there's a small circle that shows you the center of the filter. - Well, - I have to do is select it and press the delete key on your keyboard and the filter will - disappear. - And finally, - after I've applied my changes, - I can either click on the square to turn off the graduated filter or select the before and - after views to see how well this filter works 19. Radial Filter.: - another new feature, - Light Room five, - The radio filter and a suspected. - It's quite similar to the graduated filter we saw before. - It's Icon is situated between the graduated filter and the adjustment brush, - and it's shortcut is shift M. - One of the drawbacks of the graduated filter was that you couldn't really use it in parts - of the picture that we're around. - So that's probably why the guys that blight room came up with this idea. - And this picture right here is a perfect example of how it can be used. - This tool works just like a graduated filter. - You click on it, - you place it on top of the part of the image you want to adjust, - you applied. - It changes and you click done, - but notice that you press the shift key while placing it. - You will be able to draw a perfect circle, - whereas if you don't, - you'll draw ellipsis instead. - In this case, - I want to create a sphere, - so I'll click on shift and then adjust to find details by assuming in. - And one difference with the graduated filter is that you can either apply the changes - inside or outside the circle. - Also notice how there isn't a transition. - Sonus such but a feather which can be modified by using the slider. - The bigger the value of it, - the softer the transition and vice versa. - By default, - the changes will be applied to the our part of the filters. - So I'll click on Invert mask and apply the changes inside. - Once that's done, - I'll move the feather slider so the transition is smooth. - In this case, - the value I'm looking forwards around 60 moralists. - Why hasn't finished? - All that's left is to click on daughter or press the enter key. 20. Adjustment Brush.: - The last tool situated in this small task bar is the adjustment brush. - This tool will act more or less. - The same way is the graduated filter and radio filters, - but will be able to decide where it's applied with a lot more freedom of movement. - To select it, - weaather click on its icon or press the cakey as you can see that tools are the same US - into graduated filters we saw earlier. - But there's an addition because we can now change the brush size, - feather flow and density is, - well, - a supply, - an automatic mask, - and also we can apply to brush is A and B. - The size is quite obvious. - It can be changed manually. - Using this lighter or with the mouse wheel, - the feather will determine the distance between the inner and outer circle. - The bigger the value, - the softer the transition. - Just like in the radio filter. - The best way to explain the flow is by setting it to a value of 100 lowering the exposition - , - painting on her image and then applying a value of 10. - As you can see, - you apply whatever changed, - choose much more strongly when the flow is high and then when it's low. - So I would recommend using a value between 40 and 60 most of the time. - Finally, - the density value would limit the amount of flow that can be applied. - For example, - if I choose an exposure value of minus for a full value of 100 a density value 40 I will be - ableto under expose the image by four stops. - But if I paint over and over the under, - exposure won't add up because it will be limited thanks to the density value. - So now I'm going to raise these changes just by selecting this little circle, - impressing, - delete. - And what I want to do now is to under expose Iraq in this image without affecting the - center off it. - So I'll choose an exposure of minus one and start painting as you can see the rock star to - get under exposed. - And now it's a good time to talk about the selected mask overlay. - If you prissy okay, - you'll notice that a red mask will appear, - which will be quite useful for seeing where changes have been applied. - In our case, - this can be used to do the final adjustments near the center on the Rock. - Okay, - so now that I know for certain that I'm only affecting the part of the image that I want, - I can add some changes to it. - And because this is an exercise, - once I do that, - I'll just delete this brush. - Now I want to apply some changes in the inner part of the image, - and this might seem a bit more difficult because it hasn't smaller size, - and you might need to be more careful. - But there's no need to worry, - because light room gives us a tool that makes it nearly impossible to get it wrong, - the auto mask to which can be selected by clicking on it or by pressing the a key for this - , - I'm going to reduce the size of the brush and Christie okey so I can see where my changes - are being applied. - And, - as you can see because I have the auto mask tool activated, - I'm only affecting the part of the image that I want. - It won't let me invade other parts. - If I now assume in By present is Seiki. - I can show you what a good work this tool does. - Nothing went from one side to the other. - And last thing I want to talk about is how to race parts of this brush. - We already know that to raise the whole thing, - we have to select this little circle and then press the delete key. - But what if I only want to erase or fine tune parts of it? - Well, - for that, - I only have to press old on a PC or option on the Mac, - and you'll see that raise will be highlighted now instead of A or B, - as we did before will now be able to change the brush sides feather and the rest, - and by clicking we can you raise the parts we want. 21. White Balance.: - you've probably noticed that the color of the light changes during the day. - Sunsets and sunrises and not the Samos midday conditions. - Summer and winter lights of different and indoor and outdoor lights are not the same either - . - This change in light colored qualities called the white balance, - and it's affected because the temperature of the light changes depending on many factors. - Basically, - what we intend to do with the white balance tool is to have an image a similar as it was - when we saw it. - Because although digital cameras are a high end piece of technology, - they haven't yet matched the quality off four eyes and brain. - This tool is situated under the basic tools and can be selected either by clicking on its - icon or by pressing the W key and as many other tools, - and can be adjusted manually or automatically to adjust the white bowels of this image - automatically, - I need to pick what is known as a target neutral. - In case you don't see this tool, - you'll have to click and show loop next to it. - You could also change the size of the pixels that appear in it. - A target neutral is ideally a neutral gray color. - But in case we don't have a neutral gray in her picture, - we have to either click on something that's pure wide or pure black and hold that it gives - us a corrected image. - In this case, - clicking on the black socks of the Rocky Player will do a pretty good job, - whereas clicking on the white shirt will give a green cast or image. - Another thing to mention about this tool is that when ordered this Mesa selected, - you basically only have one chance of getting it right. - So to say, - because once you click on something, - the tool will deactivate itself. - So it's always a good idea to not select this option. - Another automatic way of color corrector images is by selecting from the drop down list to - the right of worth, - says Custom. - So, - for example, - if our image was taken under daylight conditions, - selecting daylight might correct damage. - But in this case, - none of the presets really work for us. - The other way of working with white balance is just by manually changing the color - temperature and the tent of the image. - To do this, - but we have to do is move the temperature slider, - right it to the left, - which will give us a blue cast or to the right to get a yellow one. - The 10th slider would affect the color temperature is such, - but we'll give. - Her image is a green cast if moved to the left on a magenta cast if moved to the right, - and generally it's not very used. - What I was taking these pictures. - It was dark and the only light source was artificial, - which generally gives a yellow color to the scene. - So, - as far as I can remember, - the image in reality looked a bit yellow. - So to correct that, - I'm going to choose a card temperature off around 3600 and leave the tin value at minus one - . - Again, - this tool is one of those that work in a subjective way because the same scene for two - different persons might appear slightly different to their eyes. - So just have that in mind. - We're working with this tool 22. Tone Adjustments.: - Now that we know what the Y balances and how to change it, - it's time to learn how to change the overall tone oven image. - For me, - this is the most important tool in the develop module and the one that's involved in the - majority of my editing. - And it's always this tool can be modified manually or automatically. - And unless you're in a rush to read and your pictures, - I would recommend always using the manual mode. - The adjustments of tone show up in the history. - Graham. - After all the history, - Graham is a graphic representation of most of the properties in an image, - and if you hover your mouse over it, - you'll see how there's an area for lights. - Highlights exposure shadows on blacks. - If I, - for example, - change exposure in this image, - either by typing a number of my choice or by dragon this lighter, - you'll notice how the history moves either to the left or to the right, - depending if I under exposed or over exposed image. - Having said this, - you could also change exposure for an image by dragging the exposure area of the history. - Graham. - Because this image is quite under exposed, - I'm going to increase its exposure up to 0.6 just to lighting up the sky a bit. - Changing the contrast oven image can make it or break it. - People tend to add lots of it just to make the image pop out. - But if I do that, - this image will end up with an unreal feeling to it, - especially in the sky. - But if I lower it too much, - I'll end up with a lot of halos and the impression that there's far between me and image. - See how it becomes more flat and more gray. - Well, - contrast is the difference between the color and the brightness of one object and other - objects within the same area. - But the best way to understand what this concept is's just to play around with it and try - to improve your image, - but without making a mess out of it, - I generally stay between the values of 15 and 40. - The next thing I'm going to deal with are the highlights. - Lowering there will usually let you rescue burned out part of the sky. - And although in this example, - the sun is almost impossible to dame because it's so bride, - at least I'll be able to dim the area around it. - The shadows are going to create a big change in this image because, - well, - there are lots of them. - Lowering the shadows will increase the black color of the shadow area, - but increasing them will put some light into those parts. - And because I want there to be shadows. - But not to be that black, - I'll increase him to 100 still get some shadows. - Also notice how this will only affect the lower part of the image. - Next on the list are the whites, - and, - as you can see, - if I move this lighter all the way to the left, - there's not a lot going on. - But if I move it all the way to the right, - I get a burned out sky and pretty much undo the changes. - The highlights that so for the images sake, - I'm going to leave it at cereal and finally, - the blacks. - These are related to the shadows in the same way that the Whiteside related to the - highlights. - If I increase the blacks, - what's gonna happen is that I'm not going to have any pure black pixels on my image. - But that's generally not a good idea. - And if I decrease them, - notice how I get the shadows back. - But in a strange way, - with a high contrast between the shadow area and the grass. - Also notice how lowering the blacks will affect all the image, - whereas lowering the shadows only affected the lower part of it. - So because I want to have some pure black pixels, - how choose the value of around 45? - I wanted to use a rear lit photograph of this example because it's very difficult to get - the same results in your computer as what you saw it. - Really life. - And also this image is a good example, - because shadows, - whites, - blacks and contrasts are all heavily involved in a really lit photograph. - And after all, - when you edit photographs, - these are the things you're mostly editing. 23. Presence Adjustments.: - the last adjustments available. - Inside the basic tools are clarity, - vibrance and saturation, - which make up the presence of an image and, - if used correctly, - will give our images that extra snap. - The effects of clarity can seem to be pretty similar to those of contrasts, - but there's a difference. - Where we decrease contrast, - we get more total range, - and when we increase it, - we get less tonal range. - That is, - more blacks, - more whites and less in the middle. - Clarity, - on the other hand, - focuses more on texture and the middle range, - increasing the clarity of an image just like increasing. - Its contrast will give it a bit more snap. - If we increase the clarity of this image, - you'll notice that it changes the edges of the buildings and the flags. - That's always with any tool. - You don't want to go to the extreme. - So I say a good reference value for this tool is between Syria and 30. - At least that's what it works for me. - Of course, - you could also apply negative clarity to get a smooth effect, - like the diffuser filters used in the eighties. - But apart from that, - you'll always be on the positive side of this tool. - The vibrance and saturation tools work with the colors in a similar way, - but as you'll see, - the results you get when applying them are very, - very different. - Increasing the vibrance of an image will make the colors come to life, - but it will work on the weaker colors. - Notice how the strong reds and blues in this image barely changed when increasing the - vibrance. - Where is the pale blue of the sky comes to life? - If we apply in negative value vibrance, - you'll see that the image turns to black and wide, - but not totally. - Because again, - it will mostly affect the weaker colors, - the sky and the buildings and affect last the stronger colors with the flags, - especially the primary ones red, - green and blue. - If we now go to the saturation adjustments, - we'll see that decreasing saturation will turn the image into black and white, - and it will remove all the color saying it. - Even the primary ones on increasing it will create a non pleasant effect. - The primary colors will be too strong, - almost radioactive, - and all the colors will be affected. - Not only the weaker waas, - so have in mind that the saturation values shouldn't go beyond 20 most of the times because - a little too much saturation will start ruining your photo. - We can compare this by applying the same values of vibrance and saturation to the image. - The value of 54 vibrance will give this result, - but same value for saturation will give this one see the difference. - And finally another way of helping out the weaker colors and get a bit more of color - varieties by increasing vibrance and decreasing saturation. - Remember vibrance between 0 30 and saturation no more than 20 most of the times. 24. Tone Curve.: - another way of applying highlights, - lights, - darks and shadows to our images is by using the tone curve tool. - Once we open it, - we'll see this small square with a diagonal line crossing it a compact in view of the - history Graham, - and just like in the other, - hissed a gram. - If we hover, - mouse over, - it will see the area corresponding to each category. - When working with this tool will be aiming to create an S curve, - which will be done by increasing the highlights and lights and lowering the shadows and - blacks. - We can modify these categories either by using this lighter by dragon did I are gonna line - over the history, - Graham, - or by clicking on this icon to the left of the tool in placing it over the image. - But we place it over a dark area. - The darks will be highlighted and one place over white area, - the lights will be highlighted, - and so on. - Also notice how you can modify these categories up to a certain level because you won't be - able to direct the line further than what the grey area allows you to. - The tone curve will also have three different settings it can either be lineal by default. - But if we want to end up with a slightly contrast ID image, - all we have to do is click on the double arrows and select medium contrast, - and this will create a slight S shaped curb. - Quicken and strong contrast will curve it a bit more. - Another way of modifying this curb is by clicking on this icon that will allow us to edit - the point curve. - What this means is that we'll be able to add as many points as we want in the curve and - that the movement restrictions won't apply any longer unless we're really fine tuning this - line. - The default settings will work just fine to go back to them. - All we have to do is click on the icon again, - and finally, - we can increase that safe area for each category just by dragging these sliders, - either to the left or to the right. - Let's do something quite drastic here and drag the slider all the way to the left and see - what happens. - As you can see, - all the other sliders will be tracked to the left as well, - and as a result, - a safe area for the highlights and lights has increased dramatically. - But all is your experimenting. - It's always better to just leave these lighters in their default place. - So as you can see the tone curve, - it's a more graphical way of working with these adjustments. - And perhaps the most interesting part of it is that you contract this little icon to the - part of the image you want to modify to give more accurate results. 25. HSL - Colour - B&W.: - the next tool will be using is the one called hs l color black or white. - This tool has three other tools inside of it. - The 1st 1 being H s L the HSE l do well, - let us work with hue, - saturation and luminous either one by one or with all of them at the same time. - If we click on all the hue, - values will cover all the visible colors from Retz to Magenta Z. - And if you notice they work in a six segment. - But I mean by this is that the right part of the reds will correspond to the left part of - the oranges and so on. - This tool works in a similar way as a tone curve and that you can either drag the sliders - of each color. - Or you can use this tool to pinpoint which color you want to modify. - And let me tell you that the results you get from using this tool are pretty cool. - One of these cool effects will be to change the color of the leaves in a photograph. - This way making a scene change from spring to fall in just a few seconds Let me show you - how it's done. - In this example, - we have an image of a river with some green leaves and then some falling. - Orange brown leaves, - if we want to change the color, - are the hue to be more precise of the green ones. - All we have to do is click on this tool dragon on top of the green leaves. - Click and slide the mouse either up or down and see what happens. - Do you have the yellow and green sliders? - Are the ones moving? - Well, - this happens because although the Leafs appears being green, - they also have a yellow component there. - So those two callers are the ones being affected and Onley those. - If we now wanted to affect the orange or red leaves of the image, - we click on them, - and the orange and red sliders will move, - creating some pretty weird effects. - Also, - notice how, - if we move this ladder for the blue collar, - nothing happens because there's barely any blue in this picture. - So, - you know, - probably understand how the saturation works. - If we want to increase the saturation, - often individual color, - we just have to move the slider to the left or right, - and only the saturation of this color will change. - This works both ways, - of course, - because decreasing the saturation will turn our images into black or white as we already - know. - But we could also leave all the image in black and white except for the green colors, - for example. - And finally, - we can also change the luminant off a particular color to make some parts of the image - shine or become a bit darker if it wanted to. - So I'm now going to click on Reset and select a color too. - This tool that the same thing the HSE sale does, - but in a more compact way of working, - so to speak again. - We have the same callers. - We have the H s l tool, - but instead of having all the sliders for all the colors, - we only have three sliders for each color. - So we basically don't have to scroll down the screen to change the hue, - saturation and luminous of the greens. - For example, - we just click green and the sliders for it will appear finally, - and this is the first time we talk about this. - Clicking the black A Y tool automatically change your image to black and white. - But bear in mind that or image was originally in color, - so each of those colors has become black and white. - What do you mean by this is that you will be able to change the black, - white and mid tone parts of each original color? - Let's say we want to modify the leaves in the trees really know their green originally, - so we can either modified a green slider or use this little tool to select them and darken - them or whiten them. - So, - as I said, - the real magic in this tool is this little icon here, - which will allow us to pinpoint what we want to target, - allowing us to work in a much more specific way inside or photographs. 26. Split Toning.: - the split toning tool will allow us to change the hue and saturation values of both the - highlights and shadows and our pictures, - as well as the balance between these two. - This tool is generally used to give our pictures of Vin Tash or Seventies Luke, - and pretty soon you'll understand why we'll begin by treating the highlights area of this - picture, - which will translate into the sky and some of the buildings. - If we move the slider to the region of the greens and purples, - you see that nothing is really happening. - But why? - Well, - because the saturation is lighter. - Is it zero? - But if we move it to the right, - we'll see that things start to change and that the sky and some buildings are now getting - that Polaroid or 70 style look. - Let's work with the shadows in our picture. - Always like room gives us two ways of working with any tool and in this case will quicken - that gray square next to where it says shadows and select a color through it. - I'm sure you remember this tool from the radiant filters, - so you were probably familiarized with it already. - We gave the sky of blue cast, - so we're not going to give the rest of the image of yellow one to make it look a bit and - worn down. - Remember that going up will increase the saturation, - and going down will decrease it. - Remember also how high saturation Valley will probably ruin your pictures. - So don't go too crazy on it, - right so another Our skies blue and our buildings are yellow. - All that's left to do is play with their balance. - Moving the slider to the left will make everything turned yellow because it will give the - shadows more importance or more balance, - and moving the slider to the right will do the opposite. - But in this case, - I think I'll just leave it at zero, - finally comparing the before and after views. - Well, - let us see the huge chain that this tool makes it any image. - So if you want to take your pictures back to the seventies, - you now know what to do 27. Detail.: - the detail to will let us improve the detail of her pictures, - especially in pictures like this one taken at very high I iso's. - If we look at the details and there's a history Graham, - we'll see that in this case, - I had to use 4500 i S O, - which is something quite common when shooting indoors, - but which is a bit too much for my camera and ended up giving me too much noise. - So we'll try to remove it and see how it works when opening the detail tool. - The first thing we'll see is this exclamation sign saying that we should soon the image - size to, - ah, - 100% to get the best results. - So we'll click on it and the image will assume into that value. - Once we do that, - the first thing we want to do is change the amount of sharpening in the image. - But first, - let me tell you that with this tool will be using the combination of the mouse and the old - key on a PC or option key on a Mac. - I'm now prison the bulky and moving the slider, - and because of that, - we're seeing the images of black and white. - If I do the same, - but without pressing the all key, - the image goes back to color that's always in light. - Room. - Tools should be used to their maximum values. - If we use an amount of 150 we can see how the hand becomes full of noise and small dots, - so we'll stick to a value of around 50 here now for the radios to again, - we'll have to press old and click, - and you'll see that if we go all the way to the right. - But this tool will do is to increase the strength of the elements that make up the borders - of the image. - Where is moving into the laugh will soften those borders. - A good rule of thumb for this tool is to keep its values between 0.5 and 1.5. - Well, - now jump ahead to the luminous tool. - And, - as you can see increasing, - it will give all our image, - not just the borders. - A soft link and we will lose. - All the detail will reduce the noise as well. - But there's a better way to do this and still keep some details, - so we'll choose a value of around 30. - To accomplish this. - Increasing the detail will be very useful where we want to make textures appear like, - for example, - when working with macro pictures of insects or flowers. - But in this case, - the elements in our picture don't have so many textures as a macro picture of an insect, - so we'll keep the detail. - In the regions between 20 and 30 the contrast tool will be useful. - It's always to bring back a little bit of shaped her images and increase the detail level - of the borders of the elements, - so we'll use the same value. - Shiras We would, - in the basic tools around 20 or so, - have in mind that softening and image will decrease its contrast. - Now that we've worked with the noise reduction part of these tools, - it's a good idea to see what we've done so far. - Turning off noise reduction and sharpening will show is that so far the tools have done a - pretty good job, - especially in reducing the noise this time to go back now to the sharpening tools and work - with them asking to if we click on it. - While presently all key the image turns to black and white. - And if we move the slider all the way to the right, - all we end up seeing is the borders off some elements. - What this tool will do its limit, - the sharpening to the added. - So in this case, - the white parts will be the ones and focus and choosing a value of around 70 will work - pretty well for this example. - You alone is that I haven't said anything about a detailed tool, - basically, - because this is the picture of a person and we don't really want to bring out the details - in his skin, - and it's a better idea to just soften those parts. - Remember that the detail tool works much better. - Micro photography and finally, - the last tool available is the color tool, - which will remove all the caller active facts from the background. - But as you can see, - increasing, - it really doesn't help it. - Also, - we'll just leave it at cereal. - The detail to is probably the most complicated to toe work within all of light room. - You've heard me say many times that there isn't a right way to do this or to do that well, - that applies, - especially here because those nine sliders that make up this tool, - they all work together and increasing lawn will force you to decrease another one. - And if you zoom in, - you won't see the same things that if you some out. - So don't worry too much about it if you don't get it at first, - because it really takes a lot of practice to get to know this tool. 28. Lens Corrections.: - the lens corrections to will be very useful, - especially when trying to correct the defects created when using a wide angle lens or when - editing architectural pictures taken without a till chip linds. - In the first case, - it will try to correct the barrel and distortion effects. - Where is in the second case, - It will correct those converging lines that appear when taking pictures of buildings. - In general. - If we click on this tool, - we'll see that we have different options to work with. - Selecting profile and clicking on enabled profile corrections will allow light room to - correct our photographs based on what lens we've used to take our picture. - Notice that although the database is quite big, - it won't be as big if the picture was taken in J pic formats. - So this is hopefully yet another reason to shoot and raw every time you can. - In this case, - the picture was taken with this lens, - so I just have to select it and the small distortions will be corrected. - As we can see when I activate and deactivate is tool, - as you're probably used to now, - like Room always gives us a manual way of editing or pictures and in this gay selected - manual will let us change up to six different properties in case the automatic mode doesn't - work for us. - Also, - we should always leave. - Check that con strained crop option in order that or not to get white edges and our - pictures. - And finally, - in case your lens creates some kind of vignette, - ING will be able to edit it as well as its midpoint. - The color option with allow us to remove the chromatic aberration. - There are pictures these generally appear near the edges of optics against a white - background and show up this purple or red pixels. - In this case, - it's a good idea to assume in to see the buildings here and disk click on remove chromatic - aberration. - It might be difficult to see the changes, - but they're there. - And finally, - one new feature lighten. - Five is the basic option, - which will let us use all the tools we just mentioned at the same time, - and in the same window here. - We can select to enable profile corrections, - remove chromatic aberrations and to constrain the crop as well as being able to level the - picture like we did in the crop tool at the beginning of this chapter. - Choosing level will correct the horizontal perspective, - and vertical will correct the vertical one. - Automatic and full are quite similar, - but full will use every tool there is. - It will analyze the three access of the image, - the focus points and less profiles to try and correct this perspective, - where is the automatic mode will choose freely? - What to apply to correct damage? - In this particular case, - the best results will be game in when choosing vertical automatic won't give us bad results - . - But vertical just seen. - It's a bit more riel. - Of course, - the results given by Full are far from reality, - so we'll have to ignore those. 29. Effects.: - the effects tool will allow us to add a bit of green or noise to our images as well. - A something getting Remember how we were able to removing, - getting from our patriots and the lands corrections, - too well, - in this case, - we're going to do the opposite will be adding it. - In case you're not familiar with this term, - Vignette ing is generally a black halo, - although it can be white as well. - That can help our viewers focus their attention on a particular area for photograph, - so it's used more like a guide than anything else. - So moving the amount slider to the left will create a black halo, - and moving into the ride will create a white one. - The midpoint tool will determine what proportion of her image will be occupied. - Driving, - ending all the way to the left will give us a smaller radius, - and moving into the ride will give us a bigger one around. - This, - too, - will change the shape of the vignette ing. - Obviously, - a maximum around this will create a circle, - and a minimum one will create more of a square with round edges. - We've already used a feather too many times in this score. - So it's always a small value of feather. - Gives us the hard and define edge and the high value soft. - And if usage, - and actually you did a low value will help us see better the previous settings for the vin - getting values as I'm showing you here. - But what happens if we want to apply vignette ing and then proper image? - Will that affect disappear? - Well, - no, - actually, - if we now crop this image and leave only the center part, - you can see that the vignette ing effect will still be there, - which is a pretty useful feature, - because sometimes you might apply in effect than then crab the image and finally, - just like we were able to remove grain or noise from her image with the stool will be able - to do the opposite and give her image is a more artistic feel. - This tool is very simple to use. - To add grain to the image, - simply move the amounts letter to the right to increase the size of this grain again. - We can move this lighter to the right and to make the edges of these rains after a rougher - will just have to move this lighter either to the left or to the right. - As I said before, - if we compare the before and after views, - adding a certain amount of grain to the picture will give them or artistic look a bit like - the pictures taken with a high I S O number when film was still around.