Adobe Lightroom 5. The Library And Develop Modules. | Santi Kierulf | Skillshare

Adobe Lightroom 5. The Library And Develop Modules.

Santi Kierulf, Scientific Photographer & Photography Teacher

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29 Lessons (1h 38m)
    • 1. Trailer

    • 2. The Lightroom 5 Interface.

    • 3. Creating A New Catalog.

    • 4. Importing Our Images.

    • 5. Copyright Information.

    • 6. Working in Grid & Loupe View Modes.

    • 7. Working in the Compare View Mode.

    • 8. Working in the Survey View Mode.

    • 9. Stars, Flags & Labels.

    • 10. Collections.

    • 11. Searching Images In The Library Module.

    • 12. Exporting Our Images.

    • 13. The Develop Module Interface.

    • 14. Loupe and Before & After views.

    • 15. The Crop & Straighten Tools.

    • 16. The spot removal tool.

    • 17. Red Eye Correction.

    • 18. Graduated Filter.

    • 19. Radial Filter.

    • 20. Adjustment Brush.

    • 21. White Balance.

    • 22. Tone Adjustments.

    • 23. Presence Adjustments.

    • 24. Tone Curve.

    • 25. HSL - Colour - B&W.

    • 26. Split Toning.

    • 27. Detail.

    • 28. Lens Corrections.

    • 29. Effects.


About This Class

Adobe Lightroom 5 gives photographers, no matter what our level is, all the tools needed for having a complete workflow with our photographs. From importing, organizing and editing our pictures to publishing them in the form of a book, social networks, web galleries or slideshows.

In this course you'll learn the fundamental concepts and techniques for mastering Lightroom from scratch, focusing on the two most important modules: Library and Develop.

Of course you will also learn the new features of this new version, always at your own pace, and with the warantee of having a professional photographer teaching you.


2. The Lightroom 5 Interface.: - welcome to this light room five course before we begin, - it's well worth it to get to know. - The software's interface like room is divided into modules in like Room five. - There are seven modules, - whereas in other versions that were less the models are library. - Develop map book slideshow and Quentin Webb, - and each of these modules will be divided into panels. - There will be a left panel, - a central panel, - which will occupy most of the screen with our images, - a right panel at a bottom one with a slide show off all over images in two different - modules. - There will also be a smaller task bar under the central panel in which we will be able to - radar images, - flak them or skip through the different view modes available amongst other things. - But we will see this in the following clips. - The library module is very useful to see all of the images that make up more catalogue. - It's left pedal will show all the folders that holder images, - and through it we will also be able to publish our images in Facebook or Flickr, - for example. - On the other hand, - the right panel would let us at keywords, - descriptions or metadata to our images. - The develop module is where we will spend 90% of four time in light room. - There we will edit crop compared to black and white. - Add effects or calibrate or camera, - among other things. - The left panel of this module is home to our collections and will show the changes We have - applied for images, - just to name a few. - Where is the right panel is the one that holds all the tools needed for editing or images, - but we'll go deeper into that in a while. - The map module will be used tagger images on the map, - either manually or through our cameras. - GPS function in a more automatic way in the book module like room gives us the opportunity - off creating a book through a website court blurb or just to export it with a pdf format - and printed elsewhere. - As we can see, - the right panel holds all the tools needed for customizing or book any way we want. - In this like show module, - we will be able to create, - as you have guessed, - a slight show again, - we will be able to export it as a PdF or a video, - and it will work pretty much the same as the book module, - with the ride Penhall holding older tools needed for this. - We're getting near the end now with the print module there, - we will be able to customize her images before we send them to print. - We can set the size of the image. - It's proportions, - paper type watermarks, - resolutions and any other things you can think off to get a perfect printed image. - If you're still print your images, - that is. - And last but not least, - we have the Web module, - which is quite useful if we have a website and don't really know much about coding or HTML - or CSS. - And we want to just create a simple and functional gallery with our images. - As you can see, - there are a number of templates on the left panel and quite a few tools on the right. - One has always so, - as you have probably guessed, - live room allows us to do pretty much anything we want with our images, - from importing them to editing, - placing them on a map, - printing them either in a book or a pdf, - or even creating a small gallery for a Web site. - The best thing about light room is that it's easy to use it. - Just go too smoothly from the first module to the last one. - In an intuitive and user friendly way, - I guarantee you that in a couple of hours you will be cruising your way around light room. - Is that easy? 3. Creating A New Catalog.: - In this clip, - we will learn how to create a new catalogue. - Creating one is pretty much the first thing you should do. - After installing light room, - this catalog would allow live room to know where our images are. - For example, - that could be in her own computer's hard drive on external one or maybe any use, - be memory. - And because, - like Room doesn't really store the images is such it needs a catalogue to tell it where - they physically are. - So let's begin. - In my case, - we can see that the name of my catalogue is cattle ago. - Lied Room five Santa care over. - It's in Spanish, - and if we hope for over the name with a cursor, - we can see where it is stored within my computer. - So to create a new one or we have to do is quick file you catalog, - and here we see the one that's already there. - But we're going to create one right next to our own one. - So we choose the name of our new catalogue in this case, - light from five course and just click safe. - So after doing this leg room will start again. - But this time, - with no pictures as there can't be no pictures in a brand new catalog, - right, - So to fill it, - we have to import images to it. - But we'll explain that later. - So once we have our two catalogues, - one next to the other, - we can go to their parent folder and see that one is significantly larger than the other - one. - And that makes sense because my original catalogues holds the information of every image - I've ever taken, - so it's no surprise that it has a file size of more than 900 megabytes. - Where is their new kala will barely be bigger than a few megabytes. - So if we have more than one catalogue and we want to switch between them, - what we have to do is click on file open recent and select the one we want and Click - Relaunch and we'll be back where we started. - So having more than one kind of log my work for you in case you're working with a - particular client or maybe decide to store all your sport images or vacation images under - different catalogs, - it will also depend on your computers performance. - As you saw, - one single catalogue can get pretty massive, - so you might want to go with the divide and conquer approach that that's entirely up to you - . 4. Importing Our Images.: - So once we have created our catalogue, - the next logical step is to put some images in it, - and this is done with the import function. - But before we start importing, - it's worth it to set some parameters that I think are very helpful for the import process. - For that, - we have to click edit preferences on a PC or line room preferences on a Mac and once the - dialogue box appears, - would go to the general Tap and select Show Import Dialog. - When in my memory card is detected this way, - every time we insert a memory card like room will ask us if we want to import its images or - not. - Some cameras will create names from folders inside the memory cards. - For example, - one folder might be called Underscore 0001 and hold 999 images, - and once 999 images are taken, - a new folder, - Cold underscore 002 might be created and so on. - So it might be a good idea to tell light room to ignore these folding names, - and you do that by clicking ignore camera generated folder names when name in folders and - Finally, - some cameras might take pictures in raw and J pick former at the same time. - So if you want to import, - are images in those two different formats. - All we have to do is click treat J pic files next to raw files as separate photos. - That way we'll have a fire with same name, - for example. - 0001 but with different extension. - 000 juan dot naff in K genre Nick and user or 0001 dot j. - Beck. - So once all these changes have been done, - we click OK, - and we're ready to move on. - If we know insert a memory card with some images inside it, - like room will show us this dialog box. - But this is the compact view of it which, - although it gives us valuable information and it doesn't really show any of the images. - So to change this, - all we have to do is click on the arrow in the lower left corner and there we have it, - the full version of the import dialog box. - In this dialog box, - we can clearly see what we saw earlier left Central and a right panel as well. - It's a small task bar on the central one. - We could also describe it as a from what and where workflow. - So because our images are in and it's the car, - they appear on the devices category, - whereas if we were importing them from our internal hard drive, - for example, - they would appear under the file category. - Also, - if we're importing them from our internal hard drive, - make sure to check include sub folders or you might not find your images at all, - which can be quite frustrating. - So let's go back to her memory card and see what happens. - You'll notice that move and add are grayed out, - and we're only allowed to copy or images with a D and G format or copy them without it. - So what is the difference between these two options? - Well, - copying your images, - it's a DMG format will lower the file size off them, - and you'll still be able to work with them pretty much as if they were raw files. - Where it's just choosing copy will just clone your role files or J picks. - If for some reason you're using those to your destination folder and end up with a larger - folder, - size. - So what about the other two options moving and adding well moving is basically cutting. - You take one image, - you move it out of the original place and you place it in its destination. - By doing this, - you're always working with one single copy of your image. - Notice how I said cloning when I was explaining the copy function. - So there's always a chance of that image getting lost in your computers limbo if anything - fails. - And that's why it's great out when working with a memory card. - Finally, - adding this might seem the same is copying, - but it isn't. - Adding leaves the image in its original place and adds it to the catalogue. - Remember when I said that the catalogue doesn't have the images themselves, - so if you think about it, - there's a good reason for graying that option out. - We're working with a memory card that is, - they are the sign to be filled and raised constantly, - like a hard drive so adding doesn't clone anything. - It just tell slide rooms catalogue where the single original image is. - So once we have decided which of these options were going to use, - we now have to decide how many images were going to be exploring. - For example, - we might have a very big memory car, - maybe 16 or 32 gigs or even more, - and we might be doing some photographic projects. - So maybe yesterday we imported some of those images. - We kept taking pictures the following day and imported those and so on until the memory - card got filled up. - So in that case, - you want to choose new photos from the upper part of the central panel. - But maybe you're a bit more careful than that and have a bit of ah habit of importing mawr - often than just once a week for whatever might happen. - So in that case, - you'll choose all photos, - and then you either tick the box next to old photos in the upper left part of the panel, - or you click check all into Task Bar under the central panel. - But what happens if you just want to import some of your new photos instead? - All of them Well, - in that case, - you want to select those images individually, - either by clicking on the 1st 1 and then pressing control on a PC or Commander Mak and then - tick in the box in the upper left quadrant or by selecting the 1st 1 person, - the shift key clicking on the last one and ticking the box again. - Notice how the first method would let you choose images that are non consecutive. - Where's the second method will let you choose images that are in a consecutive order pretty - much the same as when selecting any fire light of their own, - a PC or a Mac. - While this thing to point out is that you can also soared the images either by their - capture time, - media type or others and also increase or decrease their thumbnail sizes. - So once we know what images will be importing, - it's time to the site where we'll be importing them, - too. - But you can see the right panel has many tools for doing this, - but we'll be using the Guan cold destination. - If we click on it, - we'll see a list of drives or places where we can export it, - images to. - In my case, - I'm using a Samsung External hard drive, - so that's where my images will be going. - If I clean the iro and expand assumption drive, - we can see that I organized my images by date. - So I just have to go to the date we're in and either create a new folder by right clicking - or just selecting an existent folder. - Once that has been decided, - hole that's left to do is quick import. 5. Copyright Information.: - another detail worth mentioning deals with our copyright information. - It's always a good practice to add it to the metadata inner images, - and this is done quite easily. - Thanks the white room. - Of course, - it can be done after our images have been imported, - but it might be a good idea to do it before we click the import button. - This does the moral, - logical way of doing it. - In my opinion, - if we look at the tools in the right panel of them, - Poor Dialog box will notice. - One called Applied during Import here will be able to apply various developed presets. - Meta data and keywords in this case will be using the metadata section. - If I click on the arrows to the right of it, - you'll see I already have warned metadata Preset called Santa. - Care off with all my copyright information, - but in your case you won't have anything in. - We'll have to create one. - You do this by clicking on New, - which will make a new window appear, - which will have quiet a lot of options and spaces to fill that. - Don't worry, - we'll we'll only be filling a handful of them. - The first thing we have to fill is the precept name for this example. - I lame it. - Copyright your name, - by the way, - it's now a good moment to explain that to create the copyright symbol, - you have to press auld and Serial 169 If you're on a PC or auction J. - If you're on the Mac now that that's been clarified, - we can keep filling boxes. - We can now scroll down to where it says I PTC copyright their willful. - The copyright box with copyright. - Your name will decide what copyright status and images will have in this case copyrighted, - but you could choose public domain if you want your images to be freely distributed. - If we have a website or even a blawg with our images, - we can write down the U R L for it under the copyright in four u R l box. - That way, - people wouldn't know. - Why'd your copyright details and where they are on the Web on their I. - P. - T. - C. - Creator Box will write our name and our email, - and that's the least, - well, - input there. - But of course, - you can also add her address, - country, - website and many more. - But name and email should always be there. - As I said earlier, - there are many more boxes to be filled, - and you can do that if you wish, - but by feeling these were pretty good to go, - we can now click Create an earned you copyright preset will be available embedded into our - images. - So we have to do is selected under the applied your name Port tool, - and our images will be ready to go. - It's always a good idea to add some copyright information to our images, - especially if we like to share them online, - either on a social network or your own website, - as they're gonna always be someone who uses your images without your consent. - And by doing this that someone has no excuse not to contact you and use your images legally - . - The last thing I want to mention about them poor dialog box or keywords s we'll see in the - following clips. - Keywords are quite important when trying to organize and put some order in our picture of - catalogue. - Of course, - there are many ways of working with cures, - but I personally like to add the year the picture who had taken the camera that we're - taking with and any other significant details. - For example, - in this case where the images are of the Spanish cycling tournament, - I'll write sports cycling and Spain once that stunned that information, - along with the copyright we talked about earlier, - will be embedded into our images once we click on import. 6. Working in Grid & Loupe View Modes.: - as mentioned earlier. - The library module allows us to see all the images that make up our catalogue, - and four different ways in this clip will focus on the grid and Lou views. - In this case, - we're seeing our images in the grid view. - And just like we didn't import module, - we can change the thumbnail size of four images just my dragon, - this lighter situated in the toss bar. - It's worth mentioning that this task bar can customize any way you want, - just by selecting what appears on it by clicking on the iro located at the right of it. - But you can see in my case I have selected everything except navigate and slide show. - So now let's switch to the loop you to see what it has to offer. - You can see that the main difference with the grid view is that it only shows us one image - . - Where is the grid view could show us up to 60 images at once. - The love you is very useful when we went to observe the fine details of an image, - as its name implies. - So the lip you will let assume into the image up to a magnification of 11 to 1, - which means that each pixel on your image will be magnified 11 times in your monitor to - switch between these two loads, - we can either do it by clicking on their icons, - double clicking on the image or by using shortcuts. - Lied room. - It's full of them. - So it might be a good idea to grab some PanAm paper now and jock some of them down. - In this case, - the shortcut for the grid view is that geeky. - Where is the shortcut for the love You? - Is the IKI? - Because you want to see all the short cuts like Room has to offer in its library module. - Just click on help and library module shark. - It's so a typical workflow between these two view types would be to selector images among - all the other images in the grid view and then switched to love you to take a closer look. - I mentioned earlier the magnification capabilities of this beauty, - but that almost going to explain how the panels can disappear in order to give us a more - screen real estate. - The way to do this is my person shift and tap. - Once you do this, - all you will be left with is your image and your task bar underneath it, - making the image the absolute center of attention. 7. Working in the Compare View Mode.: - So I've already explained that the grid view is good for looking at many images at once, - and that they love you is good for scrutinising a single image. - But what happens when you have two or three images that are quite similar, - one next to the other, - like the ones taken in burst mode? - Well, - you could always switch between them in the loop view. - But like room has an easier way of tackling this problem. - By using the compare view mode in this clip will start by comparing these to him. - It is for River, - and then we'll add 1/3 1 to the comparison. - We'll start by selecting or two images in this case, - just selecting one president shift and selecting the following one and then clicking on the - X Y icon in the task bar or prison to seek E, - which stands for compare. - If we navigate through them, - we see that they are assumed in at the same level and that if you move one to the left, - you'll do the same with the other one. - And this happens because the lock icon appears it's locked, - so if we click on it, - will a Luckett and then we'll be able to navigate and soon through each image without - affecting the other one. - I've already mentioned that person shift and tap makes every panel disappear. - But for this case, - we need to see the film strip because we're working with more than one image so we can - still make the left and right panel disappear just by person to tap key. - If we now look closely at her images by assuming in, - we can see that they don't look so similar anymore. - Us. - One of them has a person in the background, - which is a very common thing when taking long exposure shots like this one so they much - without our friend is going to be the keeper. - And for this we have to make sure that it's under the select category, - not the candidate. - The Keeper label will always be on the left side of the compare view mode. - So in the case of Keeper Image is on the right side. - All we have to do is click on the icon in the task bar, - which has an X and A Y and two opposite arrows, - and this will make our images switch places. - But What if we want to compare three or more images? - Well, - in that case, - all we do is select our previous selected image, - the one on the left press control or command and click on our new candidates. - This might sound like complicating things, - but if you look closely at the filmstrip, - you'll see that there's a black diamond in the upper right part in one image and a white - one and another one. - This black diamond represents a candidate. - Where is the white one? - Will mark are selected image. - Once we have more candidates, - we simply change from one to the other, - using the arrows and task bar until we decide which images to keep. 8. Working in the Survey View Mode.: - The last few mode available in the library module is serving mode, - which can be accessed either by clicking on its icon or by pressing the N key. - This view mode might seem similar to the grid view mode, - in the sense that you can see many images at once. - But in this mold you can select how many images you see at once, - like the Greenview mode. - In this clips example, - we have a group of images that form a theme. - It could be flowers, - or it could be colors or maybe even nature. - But as you can see, - there are also some images that don't follow this theme, - and this is where the survey mode comes in handy. - We'll start off by selecting all the images and our folder by pressing control A in a PC or - command A in the Mac and then removing the ones that don't fall over theme. - Doing this as a simple is clicking on the X, - situated in the lower right corner of each picture. - Because there are so many pictures in the central panel, - I'm going to get rid of the two side panels just by person to tap King just toe work a bit - more comfortably, - and once our out of theme images are gone, - I'm going to use another one of light rooms. - Cool characteristics. - I'm going to dim the lights or turn them off. - Doing this helps you concentrate even more on the images, - and it's done by person. - The Elke, - which stands for light president ones, - will dim the lights and president again. - We'll turn them off and president 1/3 time. - We'll turn them back on. - So when do you use this view mode? - Well, - I personally use it when I've already edited my images and are getting ready to explore - them. - In those cases, - I generally have a handful of possible keepers, - and having them all in my screen without lives on or side panels just helps me concentrate - more on the small differences between them. - And eventually removing them will help me narrow my decision even more. - But it's always That's just how it works for me. - Of course, 9. Stars, Flags & Labels.: - once we have created our catalogue, - important some images and added a bit of metadata to them, - it's a good idea to start attacking them in some way in order to keep them organized. - US. - Our catalogue grows more and more, - but before we start, - I like to point out that you can apply these tax in any of like modules. - But in my opinion, - it's always better to do it in a library module, - mainly because the images you see in it have not yet been rendered. - So the whole process of tagging and image and moving along to the next one is faster in - this module. - Okay, - so let's begin the first method we're going to use his stars. - Tagging with stars is a very subjective way, - working simply because some people might be too hard in their work and never give any image - more than three stars. - And some might consider every image they have the surface of five star treatment. - So have that in mind. - When you see this clip, - the star rating can go from 0 to 5 stars, - and you can either select an image and click on the stars in the task bar or press the keys - 0 to 5. - Having in mind that, - given an image, - a rating of zero stars means that you're removing any stars rating from that image. - Another way of tagen or pictures is by flagging them a suspect or assess rejected. - This method is less subjective than the previous one in that you can either like the image - being intra about it or dislike it, - so to speak. - The short cuts for doing this r P X and you which stand for pick, - reject an on pick, - respectively. - As always, - you can also click on the icons in the task bar. - If you don't want to use the shortcuts, - so to pick an image, - all you do is select it. - Press P, - and you'll notice that a white flag will appear in the upper left corner of the image in - the central panel. - To unpick it, - you press you and to market has rejected you Press X, - and now a black flat will appear and the image will be great out know the difference - between unpick in and rejecting one is to undo the picking or to act mutually. - Where's the other one is used to discard the image. - And finally, - the last way of tagging or images is by labeling them with a color again. - There isn't any right way of doing this. - It's all up to you to decide which color describes what, - and I'll explain this in a second. - But first, - let me tell you the shortcuts for labelling images that you can see. - Lie room gives us five colors toe work with, - but only four sharp cuts for them, - which are the keys 6 to 9 six will tag your images. - This red seven is yellow, - eight is green and nine is blue. - Unfortunately for the vile color, - it has no shortcut. - The pictures in this folder clearly have two themes. - One can be birds, - and the other one can be architectures. - So to me, - it makes sense to apply a green label toe all the images with birds on them because green - means nature for me. - But it could perfectly mean architecture to you. - So now select never image with a bird on it shouldn't be too difficult. - Just choose the 1st 1 press shift and click on the last one to have the label. - You either click on the green rectangle in the task bar or prison. - Eight Key. - Once that is done, - all that's left is to select the architecture pictures and tack them. - Is violet again? - Totally subjective? - One last thing I'd like to explain is how to rotate your images. - As you can see here, - some of the images appear Asif in landscape mode, - although they were taken in portrait mode. - If you hover your mouse over any image, - you'll notice that some icons appear. - The ones we're interested in are the ones in the lower left and right corner, - respectively. - The's curved arrows will help us rotate or images either clockwise or counterclockwise. - So if we select every image we want to rotate and then hover or mouse over one of them and - click on the curved arrow. - We'll see how all are selected. - Images rotate simultaneously, - saving us a lot of time. - And finally, - I'd like to point out that all these tagging methods can be additive. - That is, - you can have a pick image with four stars and a green label or unpicked image with two - stars and a red one. - This creates quite a huge number of possibilities for organizing or images. - Personally, - I like to tag my images each time I important them that way. - I work with a limited number every time instead of one day realizing that I have 10,000 - images and that it's time to organize them, - which, - of course, - it's a nearly impossible task to do. - Don't forget that light groom is not only about editing, - it's also about organizing and creating a database of your images, - and that database will be much more accessible by using the's simple tools. 10. Collections.: - one of the last ways we have to organize or images in the library module is by creating - collections. - This will be useful when you want to have all your images with a similar theme together, - even if these pictures are in different folders throughout your hard drive. - In this case, - we can see that in this folder there are over 500 pictures, - but they all have the same theme. - Football. - If we browse the left panel, - we can see the collections category. - If we expand this tool by clicking, - the arrow on the left will notice there is something already. - They're called Smart Collections, - which has already been created by light room by default. - Expanding that smart collection will show us a few categories, - including video files or the pictures we took in the past month, - to name a few. - But in this clip will be creating or own brand new collection. - So let's get to it. - In this clip, - I'll be working with different sport images, - some of football and some of rugby. - So what I want to do is create a group of collections or collections set if we click on the - plus sign to the right of the collection tool will be able to sell Econ option called - Create Collection. - Set, - click on it and put a name to it. - In this case, - sports Click, - Create and notice how like room has created a new box icon called Sports. - Inside This Box, - I'll be adding different sports pictures. - So what's The box has been created. - I have to create a collection to go inside of it. - If I go back to my original folder of football images, - I will select all of them by clicking Control A on a PC or command A on a Mac and click - create collection in the collections tool. - I'll name it football, - and I want to tell, - like room to include it inside a collection set, - which is the one we created a minute ago. - I take the box and choose the one cold sports. - Remember how we previously selected all of her football images? - Well, - that was known to make the workflow a bit faster. - So if you notice under the options category, - there's an option to include selected photos. - Just take the box and click Create. - Doing This will automatically create a new collection called Football with around 500 - images under the collection set Cold Sports. - It starts to make sense now. - Right now, - I'm going to add more sport images to my said, - but this time I'll name it. - Rugby s. - I have another folder with around 300 rugby images. - Again, - I select all of those images. - I click create collection, - name it rugby, - place it inside a collection set cold sports take include selected photos and click create - . - Remember how like room had already created a s'more collection for us? - Well, - I'm going to create my own now. - I will do this by clicking on the plus sign and selecting Create smart collection. - Personally, - I take a lot of sport pictures, - and it makes sense for my core flow to have a quick access to them. - So my smart collection will be named Best Board pictures, - and I want to include it inside my collection set of sports. - Nothing new here until now. - But if you take a close look at the options available in a smart collection, - you'll notice that we have the option to choose what qualities those images need to have in - order to make it into our smart collection. - because I name it best sport pictures. - It makes sense to at least make those images have ah picked status and a key ward, - which says sports notice how, - I said. - And they have to have those two qualities. - So if you click on the first set of options, - you can make yourself on 80 of what the menu is pretty extensive, - right? - As I said, - I'll be choosing the one called pick Flag, - followed by IHS and then by flag. - I now need to add my second quality. - So I click on the plus sign on the right and select other metadata and then keywords then - contains, - and then I type sport and click create. - This will obviously create a new smart collection, - but notice how it has much fewer images that are previous collections and how suddenly - there are pictures of all their sports apart from football and rugby. - Well, - it makes sense because I told Lightning to only choose the images with a picked status that - is decent images and also images of sports. - I didn't care if there were football, - rugby or tennis. - I was just interested in having the best pictures of sports. - I had in my hard drive, - and that's exactly what leg room did. - So I hope this clip has showed you how easily you can organize your best pictures off - whatever theme you choose. - Imagine you get a call from someone asking for a good picture of fencing. - Well, - in that case, - you don't have to browse through thousands of pictures of fencing. - Just go to the smart collection and chances are you'll have a good fence and picture there - if you've got the skills that is. 11. Searching Images In The Library Module.: - as we saw in the previous clips like Room is much more than just a new image editor. - It's also a great tool for creating a searchable database of your images. - To access it, - we have to be in the grid view mode, - and there you'll notice something called the Library filter, - which will let us search or images via the text attributes or metadata they contain. - If I connect my Samsung hard drive to my computer, - we can see that there are over 17,000 images on the nick on D 7000 folder alone. - So being able to search these images easily is quite an advantage. - The first thing we have to do is still like a where to search. - If the folder Nikon D 7000 is highlighted than every image, - there will be considered for a search. - But if I selected 2000 and 13 February folder Onley, - it's 2000 plus images will be considered for a search, - so let's begin using text to do our search. - Clicking on the drop down box will display a list of things to look for. - It can either be any searchable field file names, - keywords or metadata among all those as you can see. - And although you really want to narrow your search, - I would stick with any searchable field next and quite similar to the options given when - creating a smart collection. - I can choose if I want these images to contain or not contain and end or finish with - whatever I decide to type in the search box. - Also, - all these options can be selected by clicking on the magnifying glass that appears in the - search box. - All that's left to do now it's select what folder will want to search and what we want to - search. - Let's imagine. - I want to search all my sports images taken in 2013. - Well, - I have to do is select the folder name 2013 and type sports in the search box. - Doing this will give me a result of more than 1900 images. - So the first thing glad room is telling me here is you've taken more than 1900 images of - sports in 2013 or a T least you've added the keyword sports to some 1900 pictures. - Okay, - so now that I have all my sports images rounded up, - I want to select the better once the ones that I picked over the year, - and you might be thinking that we already did this in the collections clip. - But let's do it again and see what happens. - If I click on attributes, - I can select any flag attributes ratings equal or greater than whatever number of stars, - caller attributes and even file types like ritual copies or videos. - And, - of course, - I can add those attributes between them. - I could select a flag to three star yellow color emits, - but I'll stick to the basics here and select picked images. - So when I click on the white flag, - I get a result of 55 images in total. - And if I quickly go to collections, - I see that my best sport pictures are also 55 which makes perfect sense. - The system works if I now we raise sports in my search box, - I get a new result. - I'll get my flagged images of 2013 no matter what keywords they have just the ones that I - picked over the year, - the ones that I really like. - But perhaps the most interesting tool of the library filter is the metadata section. - Here you'll be able to narrow your search based on, - of course, - metadata, - thanks to its different columns like Room will generally come with four different columns - to do our metadata surge. - But we can ADM. - Or delete them by clicking on the drop down menu to the right of each column. - There. - We can also add some more options, - but the really interesting part of this is had the drop down menu of the left. - If I click on that like Groom gives me a list of pretty much anything you can imagine. - Let's see an example. - Let's imagine I want to select all my images taken with a Nikon D 7000 in the year 2013 - within 18 to 55 mil lens and with a shutter speed of 1/100 of a second. - All I have to do is select date camera lens and shutter speed and, - like groom percents me a list of my cameras, - some of my lenses and all the shutter speeds from the fastest to the slowest I've used in - 2013 and next to each of them a number. - That number will be the amount of pictures that fall into this category. - In this example, - that number is 100 100 images taken. - With those conditions, - you have to agree with me that you really can get much narrower than that your searches. 12. Exporting Our Images.: - Although the export prose is happens after the image has been edited, - the export button is situated at the library module right next to the import button. - So before we leave the library module, - I thought it was a good idea to wrap it up by explaining the exporting process. - So in this case, - I have these images not too many, - as you can see, - and I will read it to them. - And now all that's left is to select which ones are going to be exported. - I couldn't like thes three images here, - so I also like them my president control and a PC or command on the Mac and clicking on - them. - Now I have to open the export module. - This is done by click and file export on a PC or like room export on a Mac or using the - shortcut control shift E. - On a PC or command shift E. - On the Mac. - Was he explored, - window was open. - We have to tell, - like where we want to export images to. - If we click on the drop down menu, - you'll see that our images can be exported toe are hard. - Drive a CD or DVD or an email address if this example will focus on exporting them to a - hard drive, - which will probably be what we do 99% of the time anyway. - So under the export location tab, - I'm going to select the sport to specific folder, - and I'm going to choose which one. - In this case, - I'll just choose the desktop. - I could also put them in a sub folder or add to a catalogue. - The existing file section is quite important because sometimes in the same folder, - you can end up with two images with same name, - and this can cause a problem. - So notice how Light writes in Capital Letters override without warning. - You should Onley select this option if you're sure that all the images in a folder have a - unique name or if you really, - really want to override your images. - But the safest way to go is just to tell Lie room to ask what to do Regarding the file - naming, - You can leave everything un selected, - and your images will be explored with a name like DSC underscores. - Serious heroes were one, - for example, - but I like just like my own custom name and at a number next to it because most of my - exports are sequences of either a football match or waves on the beach or whatever. - So I would call these images wings slash 01 and so on. - But of course, - Lied Room gives us many options, - so it's entirely up to you. - We won't be exporting any video file, - so we'll skip that tab and move on to the file settings one. - Here you can decide what type of file you want your image to be. - I'll select a J pic format with 100% quality, - and it's RGB color space. - As always, - Lied Room gives us a huge number of options, - so do play around and choose the one that works best for you. - You can also limit the file size of your exported picture in case your senate it via email - or uploading it to a social network, - which generally will require smaller file size on the image sizing tab Weaken. - Either leave the images size as it is, - or recite it to whatever dimensions will want. - In this case, - I wonder a long edge to be a 4000 pixels because I'm not going to print them I'll just - select a resolution of 72 pixels bridge. - I'm not going to worry about the rest of tap says they're not that important for this - example. - But do take a look at them. - If you're interested, - you will also notice that on the upper left part of the screen there are some presets. - Some have already been created by light room by default, - and some of them can be created by you. - If you know how your workflow is, - it might be worth it to save a preset of your own. - But in my case, - I never do, - because I always add some changes to my images when exporting them. - So no to exports are the same for me. - Finally, - all that's left for you to do is click Export and go to the folder to see the results 13. The Develop Module Interface.: - Okay, - So once we've left behind the library module and no, - all we needed to know about it, - it's time to head into the develop module. - This module is probably the reason why you bought lied room in the first place. - I mean, - it's the place where all the editing and artistic parts of your photography take place. - And as I said earlier, - the place where you will spend 90% of your time while in, - like room. - So although this module still has the same panel distribution as the previous one, - some things will change because we're editing now, - not organizing anymore. - But you can see the left panel is still holds our collections. - But now we also have a set of presets in case we want to edit or images quickly a snapshot - tool, - which is a version of our image that we like and to which we can always go back and our - history tool, - which will give us a list of every change we've applied to our images since we imported it - . - But the panel will be used in most in this module is the right one. - This is the one that holds all the tools needed for editing or pictures in 1000 different - ways and as everything in light room. - It goes from the most used to the more specific tools. - There are a couple of ways of opening these tools. - The 1st 1 is to just click on the arrow to the right of them and expand each one. - The 2nd 1 is to president all key on a PC or option key on a Mac and then click on the - arrow to the right to expand them. - You will notice that by doing this, - the arrows next to each tool change from a solid wide to a serious of small dots, - and that this will only let you have one tool open at a time. - Which it's useful if you're only using one tool, - but not so much if you're using more than one. - There are three ways of browsing through these tools. - You can either do it by clicking on the slider to the right and scrolling down, - or if you have a three months button by using the wheel of your mouse. - Or we can use this shortcut. - Slide room gives us there are nine tools, - so there will be nine shortcuts, - which are control or command, - followed by the numbers 0 to 9. - For example, - If I want to open the history Graham, - tool out pressed control zero. - And if I want to open the tone curve tool, - I'll press control, - too. - Pressing control to again will now close it. - Another detail to have in minus that small square to the left of each tool. - You'll notice that if you hover your mouse over it, - you'll get a message to turn off the adjustment. - So in this case, - I can see how my image looks without the lens correction effect and decide how it works - best for me. 14. Loupe and Before & After views.: - before we go straight into editing are pictures. - I want to show you the view modes available in this module because this module is not about - organizing, - but about seeing that before and after. - We only have to view types instead of four. - And for that matter, - one of them is the loop view. - So we really have one new characteristic here, - so out center on that one. - We can think of the before and after view mode as a close relative of the library's module - . - Compare of you. - So if I select an image and click on this view mode, - one of two things might happen. - We either get a divided image or we get two images, - one next to the other. - This will depend on the type of view inside this view. - Let me explain. - If I click on the arrow to the right of the icon, - I'll get four different options to choose from before, - after left, - right and top bottom and before, - after left right split and top bottom split. - Choosing the 1st 2 ones will show you two versions of the same image, - one next to the other or one on top of the other choosing the other option will divide the - image either vertically or horizontally. - I personally prefer this one because the image appears bigger in my screen. - You'll notice three new icons in the task bar, - which will let you copy settings from one version to the other. - If you click on the 1st 1 you'll be able to copy before setting. - So after this way you'll have two views of the original version. - The 2nd 1 will do the opposite, - given us two views of the edited version. - And finally, - the last one will let us swap between the edited version on the left and the original on - the right. - No matter what view option I choose, - if I assume into one image, - the other image or the other half will move simultaneously, - just like in the library modules. - Compare view off course. - You can decide what soon level to apply just by clicking on the drop down display located - in the Navigator tool. - The look of you won't be discussed here, - I said, - works the same way as in the library module. - So the before and after view type is quite useful when editing or images as it lets us see - the changes compared to its original version, - either on a 1 to 1 ratio or with a very high soon level. 15. The Crop & Straighten Tools.: - The first tool I will be explaining is the crop or relatable, - but you can see it's the 1st 1 situated in that toolbar between the hissed a gram and the - basic adjustments tool. - And if you hover your mouse over it, - like room will tell you that the shortcut for it is the R key. - In this case, - I chose a crooked image of London's Millennium Bridge, - which will be straightening as soon as I click on it to other options. - Appear the aspect tool and the angle tool. - First, - I'll explain the angle tool so we click on the crop tool, - and a frame has appear on top of our image, - probably with an overlay of the rule of thirds law. - But we can change this overlay just by pressing the okey, - but you can see him come browse the different geometrical overlays, - including the golden ratio or a selection of the most common sizes for printed photographs - . - These overlays might help us when reframing our image and like group, - but nothing beats applying them. - When taking our pictures in the same frame. - You'll notice that if you hover your mouse close to its corners, - a small, - curved arrow will appear if we click and hold and move the mouse to the left or the right. - Weaken manually rotate image. - But there's another manual way of doing this just by dragging the angle slider either to - the left or right to change the degrees. - The last way of working with this tool is by doing an automatic correction of the angle. - For that, - you have to click on the straight and tool and notice how a bubble level icon will appear - When doing this well you have to do is drag it to a part of the image, - and you know it straight, - either horizontal or vertical. - In this case, - I'm going to use the buildings next to ST Paul's Cathedral's as a straight vertical guide - and click on one corner drag pedal, - allude to them and let go. - This method is useful when you have a lot of buildings, - for example. - But if you had a crooked image hone in a beach, - you could use the horizon to level that one out. - I'm going to choose another picture now, - just to make sure you get to understand how to use this tool in this one, - I'm going to strain in the image, - both using the Big Ben. - It's a vertical guide and what seems to be the Blackfriars braids as a horizontal one. - So again, - I click on the crop overlay tool. - So, - like this straight into a wall quicker. - One corner of the Big Ben tracked the line parallel to it. - Let go, - and I get a straight picture if I do the same. - But using the bridge is a horizontal guide. - I get the same results as suspected, - so now it's time to start using the aspect tool. - This will let us resize her image by changing its aspect. - And by doing this you'll see that you can make your image more interesting or guide the - viewers eyes to where you want again. - There will be manual and automatic ways of re sizing our pictures, - and again, - I'll start by showing the manual ways. - Remember those curved arrows that appear when you, - Harvard over damage and allowed us to rotate it well. - In this case, - we want to get not a curved arrow, - but two arrows pointing in opposite directions. - These ones, - if you click and drag the image now, - you'll notice how you're able to resize it and probably the first time you do this. - The proportions won't change because the lock icon appears. - It's locked, - but if I click on it and unlock it, - I'll be able to resize them. - It's applying the proportions I want, - so that's one manual way of doing this. - But there's another one. - If you click on the crop frame tool next, - a word says Aspect, - I ruler icon will appear. - And if you click on any part of the image, - you'll be able to draw frame, - which ones you let go will be resulting frame for that picture again. - If you unlock the lock icon, - you'll be able to move that frame without keeping any proportions. - And now, - for the automatic way of doing this, - if I click on the double arrows next to the loch, - I come. - A list of different proportions and sizes will appear anything from a square picture with a - 1 to 1 proportion into a panoramic one of 16 by nine or your own custom proportions in case - you're trying to make your images specific size and it's always ones you choose. - One. - You can resize it any way you like, - and Finally, - what do we want to change the orientation of a picture from portrait to landscape or vice - versa. - It can be done, - of course, - but it might be a little tricky the first few times we do it. - Once we have our fraying with the proportions who want, - we have to drag 1/4 to its opposite corner like this. - And just as it seems the frame is about to disappear. - Keep dragging. - Eventually, - the frame will have changed its orientation from landscape to portrayed or vice versa. - One thing I haven't mentioned until now is how to apply these changes or how to return or - pictures to their original size. - Applying the changes this is easy is reframing and quicken, - enter or gotten in the lower right corner and returning everything to its original state as - easy as pressing control, - See on a PC or command, - see on a Mac or selecting original next to the lock icon 16. The spot removal tool.: - when working with cameras with interchangeable lenses. - It's very, - very common to end up with some dust, - and our sensors and that dust will show up its spots In her pictures. - We can see how clean or sensor is by either taking a picture of a white background on F 22 - or like in this example, - by changing from one picture to the other and seeing that there are a group of spots in the - same place which, - unfortunately will not correspond to the bird in the sky but to dust spots. - Obviously, - the best way to get rid of this spots is by physically cleaning your senses camera. - But there's also the digital approach, - which involves using the spot removal tool. - So if I assume in into this picture, - I can clearly see where the problem is. - And unfortunately, - there are more than just a few spots. - But there's no need to worry, - as this tool works pretty well. - Most of the time, - the spot removal tool is located to the right of the crop tool and can be selected either - by clicking on it or my person to cuchi. - Was the tools been selected? - We have two options. - We can either clone or hell. - Let's see the differences between them. - If we select clone us a removal method, - what will happen is that it will select an area of the image near the affected part and - pasted over the dust spot. - If you're not able to see these two circles person, - the H Key will help you. - It's always a good idea to have a brush size almost twice as big as a dust spot and then a - pass ity of between 75 100 to get the best results. - So after clicking on top of for a spot, - we've managed to remove it. - But now let's compare this to the healing option. - Well, - we have to do is click on hell. - And although it's hard to see, - there is a difference, - because healing will make up this year's of pixels based on the information around the dust - spot. - Instead of cloning a set of pixels and pasting that I'm top so generally healing will give - best results. - So once we decided to hell instead of clone, - all we have to do is continue clicking on top of each spot, - and I'd like to use this moment to talk about a new feature in Light from five, - which is called visualize spots and that can be activated either by clicking on it or by - pressing the A key. - Once we activated, - our picture will turn into black and white, - and by dragging this lighter next to it, - we can increase or decrease its sensitivity. - But I'll just leave it in this position. - The visualized spots to is pretty useful for detecting spots that would otherwise not be - visible on. - Also, - don't worry too much if you see a huge number of spots when you drag it slider as there - will always be some amount of dust in your sensor. - So now that the image is clean and because I have another one next to it with same spots, - I'm going to copy these settings and pays them on. - My other picture to copy are setting, - so we have to do spreads control shift, - see on a PC or command shift. - See on a Mac on the window will appear, - asking us which settings will want to copy. - In this case, - I'll just select spot removal, - but as you can see, - you can copy pretty much every setting available. - Once this is done, - just click on copy. - Go to the next image and press control Shift V or command shift V, - and it's always if you don't want to remember these shortcuts, - you can click on the copy button in the lower part left panel and then on paste next to it - . - Once all this is done, - I'll click on the before and after views and as we can see in my image, - is now dust free. 17. Red Eye Correction.: - The next tool I'd like to talk about is the red eye removal tool. - Red eyes on a picture are a common problem that generally happens when a picture is taken - on a dark conditions and also when the flash disquiet near the lens to eliminate the red - eye effect. - The first thing we're going to do assume in into the image as much as we can just like this - and select the red eye correction tool. - By the way, - there's no shotgun for this tool. - Once we click on it, - like room shows us a small message saying Drag from the center of the eye or click to use - current size. - Okay, - so that's pretty clear then, - just like when removing a dust spot, - you wanted to create a circle at Lisa's twice as big. - Well, - in this case, - you want your circle to be as big as the iris. - I'm now using the wheel of my mouse to enlarge the circle, - but you can also click and drag with your left button. - What do you have your circle? - Just let go over the button and leg room will work its magic. - Generally, - the results will be satisfactory and This is not a very demanding process, - but because you don't like the final result. - You can always change the pupil size or dark and the spot manually by using the sliders. - That was easy, - wasn't it? 18. Graduated Filter.: - the graduated filter tool is the digital equivalent of those pieces of glasses are tinted - on 1/2 on untainted on the other one, - which are placed in front of the camera lens, - especially when taking landscape pictures as they can help the photographer and get a good - exposition, - even under very different light conditions, - like a bright sky in a dark ground. - In this example, - although the general images correctly exposed, - I want to darken the sky a bit just to give it a more dramatically, - but without exaggerating. - For this, - I have to select the graduated filter, - either by clicking on its icon or by pressing the M key and place it on top of my image. - As you can see, - I can rotate it freely just by moving. - The mouse left a ride. - But if I wanted to keep it parallel to the side frames of my picture, - I just have to press the shift key so I'll do that and drag the lower part of it a bit - below the horizon. - As you can see, - this filter is divided in two parts. - Top part in this case will be where the effects take place, - with more strength. - Where's the bottom part? - Will be a sort of transition area. - Let me show you. - No, - it is that when you opened a graduated filter tool, - it comes with a series of all their tools to modify. - Let me decrease the exposure just so I can make a point here. - You see that when I decrease the exposure, - the upper part of the filter gets really, - really under exposed, - whereas nothing happens in the lower part of it. - That's what I meant by effects and transition areas. - So now it's time to apply some changes, - and I'll make sure I just applied into the sky, - not the land. - Once I've applied the values I want, - I'll try to blend the lower part of the sky with the upper part of the land. - Why? - I'm happy with that. - I want to add one final touch to this filter. - If you look at the bottom of the filters tools, - there's something there cold color. - If I click on it, - I can apply whatever caller I choose to the filter and therefore to the sky. - Obviously, - a green cast would have looked to nice in the sky, - so choose a blue cast with a saturation of around 95% and click on the X symbol. - But what if I also wanted to make some small changes in the trees in this image? - Well, - it's pretty much every tool in light room. - These can be additive, - that is, - you can apply the same tool more than once. - So to do this, - I click on the graduated filter tool again. - Drag it to the bottom of my image. - And the interesting part here is that somehow, - like Room knows that the to transition areas have to touch. - So there's no need to turn the filter on 180 degrees because the effect area will be on the - bottom of the image. - Now, - I don't want to finish this clip without mentioning how to delete the filter in case you - don't want it anymore. - As you can see, - there's a small circle that shows you the center of the filter. - Well, - I have to do is select it and press the delete key on your keyboard and the filter will - disappear. - And finally, - after I've applied my changes, - I can either click on the square to turn off the graduated filter or select the before and - after views to see how well this filter works 19. Radial Filter.: - another new feature, - Light Room five, - The radio filter and a suspected. - It's quite similar to the graduated filter we saw before. - It's Icon is situated between the graduated filter and the adjustment brush, - and it's shortcut is shift M. - One of the drawbacks of the graduated filter was that you couldn't really use it in parts - of the picture that we're around. - So that's probably why the guys that blight room came up with this idea. - And this picture right here is a perfect example of how it can be used. - This tool works just like a graduated filter. - You click on it, - you place it on top of the part of the image you want to adjust, - you applied. - It changes and you click done, - but notice that you press the shift key while placing it. - You will be able to draw a perfect circle, - whereas if you don't, - you'll draw ellipsis instead. - In this case, - I want to create a sphere, - so I'll click on shift and then adjust to find details by assuming in. - And one difference with the graduated filter is that you can either apply the changes - inside or outside the circle. - Also notice how there isn't a transition. - Sonus such but a feather which can be modified by using the slider. - The bigger the value of it, - the softer the transition and vice versa. - By default, - the changes will be applied to the our part of the filters. - So I'll click on Invert mask and apply the changes inside. - Once that's done, - I'll move the feather slider so the transition is smooth. - In this case, - the value I'm looking forwards around 60 moralists. - Why hasn't finished? - All that's left is to click on daughter or press the enter key. 20. Adjustment Brush.: - The last tool situated in this small task bar is the adjustment brush. - This tool will act more or less. - The same way is the graduated filter and radio filters, - but will be able to decide where it's applied with a lot more freedom of movement. - To select it, - weaather click on its icon or press the cakey as you can see that tools are the same US - into graduated filters we saw earlier. - But there's an addition because we can now change the brush size, - feather flow and density is, - well, - a supply, - an automatic mask, - and also we can apply to brush is A and B. - The size is quite obvious. - It can be changed manually. - Using this lighter or with the mouse wheel, - the feather will determine the distance between the inner and outer circle. - The bigger the value, - the softer the transition. - Just like in the radio filter. - The best way to explain the flow is by setting it to a value of 100 lowering the exposition - , - painting on her image and then applying a value of 10. - As you can see, - you apply whatever changed, - choose much more strongly when the flow is high and then when it's low. - So I would recommend using a value between 40 and 60 most of the time. - Finally, - the density value would limit the amount of flow that can be applied. - For example, - if I choose an exposure value of minus for a full value of 100 a density value 40 I will be - ableto under expose the image by four stops. - But if I paint over and over the under, - exposure won't add up because it will be limited thanks to the density value. - So now I'm going to raise these changes just by selecting this little circle, - impressing, - delete. - And what I want to do now is to under expose Iraq in this image without affecting the - center off it. - So I'll choose an exposure of minus one and start painting as you can see the rock star to - get under exposed. - And now it's a good time to talk about the selected mask overlay. - If you prissy okay, - you'll notice that a red mask will appear, - which will be quite useful for seeing where changes have been applied. - In our case, - this can be used to do the final adjustments near the center on the Rock. - Okay, - so now that I know for certain that I'm only affecting the part of the image that I want, - I can add some changes to it. - And because this is an exercise, - once I do that, - I'll just delete this brush. - Now I want to apply some changes in the inner part of the image, - and this might seem a bit more difficult because it hasn't smaller size, - and you might need to be more careful. - But there's no need to worry, - because light room gives us a tool that makes it nearly impossible to get it wrong, - the auto mask to which can be selected by clicking on it or by pressing the a key for this - , - I'm going to reduce the size of the brush and Christie okey so I can see where my changes - are being applied. - And, - as you can see because I have the auto mask tool activated, - I'm only affecting the part of the image that I want. - It won't let me invade other parts. - If I now assume in By present is Seiki. - I can show you what a good work this tool does. - Nothing went from one side to the other. - And last thing I want to talk about is how to race parts of this brush. - We already know that to raise the whole thing, - we have to select this little circle and then press the delete key. - But what if I only want to erase or fine tune parts of it? - Well, - for that, - I only have to press old on a PC or option on the Mac, - and you'll see that raise will be highlighted now instead of A or B, - as we did before will now be able to change the brush sides feather and the rest, - and by clicking we can you raise the parts we want. 21. White Balance.: - you've probably noticed that the color of the light changes during the day. - Sunsets and sunrises and not the Samos midday conditions. - Summer and winter lights of different and indoor and outdoor lights are not the same either - . - This change in light colored qualities called the white balance, - and it's affected because the temperature of the light changes depending on many factors. - Basically, - what we intend to do with the white balance tool is to have an image a similar as it was - when we saw it. - Because although digital cameras are a high end piece of technology, - they haven't yet matched the quality off four eyes and brain. - This tool is situated under the basic tools and can be selected either by clicking on its - icon or by pressing the W key and as many other tools, - and can be adjusted manually or automatically to adjust the white bowels of this image - automatically, - I need to pick what is known as a target neutral. - In case you don't see this tool, - you'll have to click and show loop next to it. - You could also change the size of the pixels that appear in it. - A target neutral is ideally a neutral gray color. - But in case we don't have a neutral gray in her picture, - we have to either click on something that's pure wide or pure black and hold that it gives - us a corrected image. - In this case, - clicking on the black socks of the Rocky Player will do a pretty good job, - whereas clicking on the white shirt will give a green cast or image. - Another thing to mention about this tool is that when ordered this Mesa selected, - you basically only have one chance of getting it right. - So to say, - because once you click on something, - the tool will deactivate itself. - So it's always a good idea to not select this option. - Another automatic way of color corrector images is by selecting from the drop down list to - the right of worth, - says Custom. - So, - for example, - if our image was taken under daylight conditions, - selecting daylight might correct damage. - But in this case, - none of the presets really work for us. - The other way of working with white balance is just by manually changing the color - temperature and the tent of the image. - To do this, - but we have to do is move the temperature slider, - right it to the left, - which will give us a blue cast or to the right to get a yellow one. - The 10th slider would affect the color temperature is such, - but we'll give. - Her image is a green cast if moved to the left on a magenta cast if moved to the right, - and generally it's not very used. - What I was taking these pictures. - It was dark and the only light source was artificial, - which generally gives a yellow color to the scene. - So, - as far as I can remember, - the image in reality looked a bit yellow. - So to correct that, - I'm going to choose a card temperature off around 3600 and leave the tin value at minus one - . - Again, - this tool is one of those that work in a subjective way because the same scene for two - different persons might appear slightly different to their eyes. - So just have that in mind. - We're working with this tool 22. Tone Adjustments.: - Now that we know what the Y balances and how to change it, - it's time to learn how to change the overall tone oven image. - For me, - this is the most important tool in the develop module and the one that's involved in the - majority of my editing. - And it's always this tool can be modified manually or automatically. - And unless you're in a rush to read and your pictures, - I would recommend always using the manual mode. - The adjustments of tone show up in the history. - Graham. - After all the history, - Graham is a graphic representation of most of the properties in an image, - and if you hover your mouse over it, - you'll see how there's an area for lights. - Highlights exposure shadows on blacks. - If I, - for example, - change exposure in this image, - either by typing a number of my choice or by dragon this lighter, - you'll notice how the history moves either to the left or to the right, - depending if I under exposed or over exposed image. - Having said this, - you could also change exposure for an image by dragging the exposure area of the history. - Graham. - Because this image is quite under exposed, - I'm going to increase its exposure up to 0.6 just to lighting up the sky a bit. - Changing the contrast oven image can make it or break it. - People tend to add lots of it just to make the image pop out. - But if I do that, - this image will end up with an unreal feeling to it, - especially in the sky. - But if I lower it too much, - I'll end up with a lot of halos and the impression that there's far between me and image. - See how it becomes more flat and more gray. - Well, - contrast is the difference between the color and the brightness of one object and other - objects within the same area. - But the best way to understand what this concept is's just to play around with it and try - to improve your image, - but without making a mess out of it, - I generally stay between the values of 15 and 40. - The next thing I'm going to deal with are the highlights. - Lowering there will usually let you rescue burned out part of the sky. - And although in this example, - the sun is almost impossible to dame because it's so bride, - at least I'll be able to dim the area around it. - The shadows are going to create a big change in this image because, - well, - there are lots of them. - Lowering the shadows will increase the black color of the shadow area, - but increasing them will put some light into those parts. - And because I want there to be shadows. - But not to be that black, - I'll increase him to 100 still get some shadows. - Also notice how this will only affect the lower part of the image. - Next on the list are the whites, - and, - as you can see, - if I move this lighter all the way to the left, - there's not a lot going on. - But if I move it all the way to the right, - I get a burned out sky and pretty much undo the changes. - The highlights that so for the images sake, - I'm going to leave it at cereal and finally, - the blacks. - These are related to the shadows in the same way that the Whiteside related to the - highlights. - If I increase the blacks, - what's gonna happen is that I'm not going to have any pure black pixels on my image. - But that's generally not a good idea. - And if I decrease them, - notice how I get the shadows back. - But in a strange way, - with a high contrast between the shadow area and the grass. - Also notice how lowering the blacks will affect all the image, - whereas lowering the shadows only affected the lower part of it. - So because I want to have some pure black pixels, - how choose the value of around 45? - I wanted to use a rear lit photograph of this example because it's very difficult to get - the same results in your computer as what you saw it. - Really life. - And also this image is a good example, - because shadows, - whites, - blacks and contrasts are all heavily involved in a really lit photograph. - And after all, - when you edit photographs, - these are the things you're mostly editing. 23. Presence Adjustments.: - the last adjustments available. - Inside the basic tools are clarity, - vibrance and saturation, - which make up the presence of an image and, - if used correctly, - will give our images that extra snap. - The effects of clarity can seem to be pretty similar to those of contrasts, - but there's a difference. - Where we decrease contrast, - we get more total range, - and when we increase it, - we get less tonal range. - That is, - more blacks, - more whites and less in the middle. - Clarity, - on the other hand, - focuses more on texture and the middle range, - increasing the clarity of an image just like increasing. - Its contrast will give it a bit more snap. - If we increase the clarity of this image, - you'll notice that it changes the edges of the buildings and the flags. - That's always with any tool. - You don't want to go to the extreme. - So I say a good reference value for this tool is between Syria and 30. - At least that's what it works for me. - Of course, - you could also apply negative clarity to get a smooth effect, - like the diffuser filters used in the eighties. - But apart from that, - you'll always be on the positive side of this tool. - The vibrance and saturation tools work with the colors in a similar way, - but as you'll see, - the results you get when applying them are very, - very different. - Increasing the vibrance of an image will make the colors come to life, - but it will work on the weaker colors. - Notice how the strong reds and blues in this image barely changed when increasing the - vibrance. - Where is the pale blue of the sky comes to life? - If we apply in negative value vibrance, - you'll see that the image turns to black and wide, - but not totally. - Because again, - it will mostly affect the weaker colors, - the sky and the buildings and affect last the stronger colors with the flags, - especially the primary ones red, - green and blue. - If we now go to the saturation adjustments, - we'll see that decreasing saturation will turn the image into black and white, - and it will remove all the color saying it. - Even the primary ones on increasing it will create a non pleasant effect. - The primary colors will be too strong, - almost radioactive, - and all the colors will be affected. - Not only the weaker waas, - so have in mind that the saturation values shouldn't go beyond 20 most of the times because - a little too much saturation will start ruining your photo. - We can compare this by applying the same values of vibrance and saturation to the image. - The value of 54 vibrance will give this result, - but same value for saturation will give this one see the difference. - And finally another way of helping out the weaker colors and get a bit more of color - varieties by increasing vibrance and decreasing saturation. - Remember vibrance between 0 30 and saturation no more than 20 most of the times. 24. Tone Curve.: - another way of applying highlights, - lights, - darks and shadows to our images is by using the tone curve tool. - Once we open it, - we'll see this small square with a diagonal line crossing it a compact in view of the - history Graham, - and just like in the other, - hissed a gram. - If we hover, - mouse over, - it will see the area corresponding to each category. - When working with this tool will be aiming to create an S curve, - which will be done by increasing the highlights and lights and lowering the shadows and - blacks. - We can modify these categories either by using this lighter by dragon did I are gonna line - over the history, - Graham, - or by clicking on this icon to the left of the tool in placing it over the image. - But we place it over a dark area. - The darks will be highlighted and one place over white area, - the lights will be highlighted, - and so on. - Also notice how you can modify these categories up to a certain level because you won't be - able to direct the line further than what the grey area allows you to. - The tone curve will also have three different settings it can either be lineal by default. - But if we want to end up with a slightly contrast ID image, - all we have to do is click on the double arrows and select medium contrast, - and this will create a slight S shaped curb. - Quicken and strong contrast will curve it a bit more. - Another way of modifying this curb is by clicking on this icon that will allow us to edit - the point curve. - What this means is that we'll be able to add as many points as we want in the curve and - that the movement restrictions won't apply any longer unless we're really fine tuning this - line. - The default settings will work just fine to go back to them. - All we have to do is click on the icon again, - and finally, - we can increase that safe area for each category just by dragging these sliders, - either to the left or to the right. - Let's do something quite drastic here and drag the slider all the way to the left and see - what happens. - As you can see, - all the other sliders will be tracked to the left as well, - and as a result, - a safe area for the highlights and lights has increased dramatically. - But all is your experimenting. - It's always better to just leave these lighters in their default place. - So as you can see the tone curve, - it's a more graphical way of working with these adjustments. - And perhaps the most interesting part of it is that you contract this little icon to the - part of the image you want to modify to give more accurate results. 25. HSL - Colour - B&W.: - the next tool will be using is the one called hs l color black or white. - This tool has three other tools inside of it. - The 1st 1 being H s L the HSE l do well, - let us work with hue, - saturation and luminous either one by one or with all of them at the same time. - If we click on all the hue, - values will cover all the visible colors from Retz to Magenta Z. - And if you notice they work in a six segment. - But I mean by this is that the right part of the reds will correspond to the left part of - the oranges and so on. - This tool works in a similar way as a tone curve and that you can either drag the sliders - of each color. - Or you can use this tool to pinpoint which color you want to modify. - And let me tell you that the results you get from using this tool are pretty cool. - One of these cool effects will be to change the color of the leaves in a photograph. - This way making a scene change from spring to fall in just a few seconds Let me show you - how it's done. - In this example, - we have an image of a river with some green leaves and then some falling. - Orange brown leaves, - if we want to change the color, - are the hue to be more precise of the green ones. - All we have to do is click on this tool dragon on top of the green leaves. - Click and slide the mouse either up or down and see what happens. - Do you have the yellow and green sliders? - Are the ones moving? - Well, - this happens because although the Leafs appears being green, - they also have a yellow component there. - So those two callers are the ones being affected and Onley those. - If we now wanted to affect the orange or red leaves of the image, - we click on them, - and the orange and red sliders will move, - creating some pretty weird effects. - Also, - notice how, - if we move this ladder for the blue collar, - nothing happens because there's barely any blue in this picture. - So, - you know, - probably understand how the saturation works. - If we want to increase the saturation, - often individual color, - we just have to move the slider to the left or right, - and only the saturation of this color will change. - This works both ways, - of course, - because decreasing the saturation will turn our images into black or white as we already - know. - But we could also leave all the image in black and white except for the green colors, - for example. - And finally, - we can also change the luminant off a particular color to make some parts of the image - shine or become a bit darker if it wanted to. - So I'm now going to click on Reset and select a color too. - This tool that the same thing the HSE sale does, - but in a more compact way of working, - so to speak again. - We have the same callers. - We have the H s l tool, - but instead of having all the sliders for all the colors, - we only have three sliders for each color. - So we basically don't have to scroll down the screen to change the hue, - saturation and luminous of the greens. - For example, - we just click green and the sliders for it will appear finally, - and this is the first time we talk about this. - Clicking the black A Y tool automatically change your image to black and white. - But bear in mind that or image was originally in color, - so each of those colors has become black and white. - What do you mean by this is that you will be able to change the black, - white and mid tone parts of each original color? - Let's say we want to modify the leaves in the trees really know their green originally, - so we can either modified a green slider or use this little tool to select them and darken - them or whiten them. - So, - as I said, - the real magic in this tool is this little icon here, - which will allow us to pinpoint what we want to target, - allowing us to work in a much more specific way inside or photographs. 26. Split Toning.: - the split toning tool will allow us to change the hue and saturation values of both the - highlights and shadows and our pictures, - as well as the balance between these two. - This tool is generally used to give our pictures of Vin Tash or Seventies Luke, - and pretty soon you'll understand why we'll begin by treating the highlights area of this - picture, - which will translate into the sky and some of the buildings. - If we move the slider to the region of the greens and purples, - you see that nothing is really happening. - But why? - Well, - because the saturation is lighter. - Is it zero? - But if we move it to the right, - we'll see that things start to change and that the sky and some buildings are now getting - that Polaroid or 70 style look. - Let's work with the shadows in our picture. - Always like room gives us two ways of working with any tool and in this case will quicken - that gray square next to where it says shadows and select a color through it. - I'm sure you remember this tool from the radiant filters, - so you were probably familiarized with it already. - We gave the sky of blue cast, - so we're not going to give the rest of the image of yellow one to make it look a bit and - worn down. - Remember that going up will increase the saturation, - and going down will decrease it. - Remember also how high saturation Valley will probably ruin your pictures. - So don't go too crazy on it, - right so another Our skies blue and our buildings are yellow. - All that's left to do is play with their balance. - Moving the slider to the left will make everything turned yellow because it will give the - shadows more importance or more balance, - and moving the slider to the right will do the opposite. - But in this case, - I think I'll just leave it at zero, - finally comparing the before and after views. - Well, - let us see the huge chain that this tool makes it any image. - So if you want to take your pictures back to the seventies, - you now know what to do 27. Detail.: - the detail to will let us improve the detail of her pictures, - especially in pictures like this one taken at very high I iso's. - If we look at the details and there's a history Graham, - we'll see that in this case, - I had to use 4500 i S O, - which is something quite common when shooting indoors, - but which is a bit too much for my camera and ended up giving me too much noise. - So we'll try to remove it and see how it works when opening the detail tool. - The first thing we'll see is this exclamation sign saying that we should soon the image - size to, - ah, - 100% to get the best results. - So we'll click on it and the image will assume into that value. - Once we do that, - the first thing we want to do is change the amount of sharpening in the image. - But first, - let me tell you that with this tool will be using the combination of the mouse and the old - key on a PC or option key on a Mac. - I'm now prison the bulky and moving the slider, - and because of that, - we're seeing the images of black and white. - If I do the same, - but without pressing the all key, - the image goes back to color that's always in light. - Room. - Tools should be used to their maximum values. - If we use an amount of 150 we can see how the hand becomes full of noise and small dots, - so we'll stick to a value of around 50 here now for the radios to again, - we'll have to press old and click, - and you'll see that if we go all the way to the right. - But this tool will do is to increase the strength of the elements that make up the borders - of the image. - Where is moving into the laugh will soften those borders. - A good rule of thumb for this tool is to keep its values between 0.5 and 1.5. - Well, - now jump ahead to the luminous tool. - And, - as you can see increasing, - it will give all our image, - not just the borders. - A soft link and we will lose. - All the detail will reduce the noise as well. - But there's a better way to do this and still keep some details, - so we'll choose a value of around 30. - To accomplish this. - Increasing the detail will be very useful where we want to make textures appear like, - for example, - when working with macro pictures of insects or flowers. - But in this case, - the elements in our picture don't have so many textures as a macro picture of an insect, - so we'll keep the detail. - In the regions between 20 and 30 the contrast tool will be useful. - It's always to bring back a little bit of shaped her images and increase the detail level - of the borders of the elements, - so we'll use the same value. - Shiras We would, - in the basic tools around 20 or so, - have in mind that softening and image will decrease its contrast. - Now that we've worked with the noise reduction part of these tools, - it's a good idea to see what we've done so far. - Turning off noise reduction and sharpening will show is that so far the tools have done a - pretty good job, - especially in reducing the noise this time to go back now to the sharpening tools and work - with them asking to if we click on it. - While presently all key the image turns to black and white. - And if we move the slider all the way to the right, - all we end up seeing is the borders off some elements. - What this tool will do its limit, - the sharpening to the added. - So in this case, - the white parts will be the ones and focus and choosing a value of around 70 will work - pretty well for this example. - You alone is that I haven't said anything about a detailed tool, - basically, - because this is the picture of a person and we don't really want to bring out the details - in his skin, - and it's a better idea to just soften those parts. - Remember that the detail tool works much better. - Micro photography and finally, - the last tool available is the color tool, - which will remove all the caller active facts from the background. - But as you can see, - increasing, - it really doesn't help it. - Also, - we'll just leave it at cereal. - The detail to is probably the most complicated to toe work within all of light room. - You've heard me say many times that there isn't a right way to do this or to do that well, - that applies, - especially here because those nine sliders that make up this tool, - they all work together and increasing lawn will force you to decrease another one. - And if you zoom in, - you won't see the same things that if you some out. - So don't worry too much about it if you don't get it at first, - because it really takes a lot of practice to get to know this tool. 28. Lens Corrections.: - the lens corrections to will be very useful, - especially when trying to correct the defects created when using a wide angle lens or when - editing architectural pictures taken without a till chip linds. - In the first case, - it will try to correct the barrel and distortion effects. - Where is in the second case, - It will correct those converging lines that appear when taking pictures of buildings. - In general. - If we click on this tool, - we'll see that we have different options to work with. - Selecting profile and clicking on enabled profile corrections will allow light room to - correct our photographs based on what lens we've used to take our picture. - Notice that although the database is quite big, - it won't be as big if the picture was taken in J pic formats. - So this is hopefully yet another reason to shoot and raw every time you can. - In this case, - the picture was taken with this lens, - so I just have to select it and the small distortions will be corrected. - As we can see when I activate and deactivate is tool, - as you're probably used to now, - like Room always gives us a manual way of editing or pictures and in this gay selected - manual will let us change up to six different properties in case the automatic mode doesn't - work for us. - Also, - we should always leave. - Check that con strained crop option in order that or not to get white edges and our - pictures. - And finally, - in case your lens creates some kind of vignette, - ING will be able to edit it as well as its midpoint. - The color option with allow us to remove the chromatic aberration. - There are pictures these generally appear near the edges of optics against a white - background and show up this purple or red pixels. - In this case, - it's a good idea to assume in to see the buildings here and disk click on remove chromatic - aberration. - It might be difficult to see the changes, - but they're there. - And finally, - one new feature lighten. - Five is the basic option, - which will let us use all the tools we just mentioned at the same time, - and in the same window here. - We can select to enable profile corrections, - remove chromatic aberrations and to constrain the crop as well as being able to level the - picture like we did in the crop tool at the beginning of this chapter. - Choosing level will correct the horizontal perspective, - and vertical will correct the vertical one. - Automatic and full are quite similar, - but full will use every tool there is. - It will analyze the three access of the image, - the focus points and less profiles to try and correct this perspective, - where is the automatic mode will choose freely? - What to apply to correct damage? - In this particular case, - the best results will be game in when choosing vertical automatic won't give us bad results - . - But vertical just seen. - It's a bit more riel. - Of course, - the results given by Full are far from reality, - so we'll have to ignore those. 29. Effects.: - the effects tool will allow us to add a bit of green or noise to our images as well. - A something getting Remember how we were able to removing, - getting from our patriots and the lands corrections, - too well, - in this case, - we're going to do the opposite will be adding it. - In case you're not familiar with this term, - Vignette ing is generally a black halo, - although it can be white as well. - That can help our viewers focus their attention on a particular area for photograph, - so it's used more like a guide than anything else. - So moving the amount slider to the left will create a black halo, - and moving into the ride will create a white one. - The midpoint tool will determine what proportion of her image will be occupied. - Driving, - ending all the way to the left will give us a smaller radius, - and moving into the ride will give us a bigger one around. - This, - too, - will change the shape of the vignette ing. - Obviously, - a maximum around this will create a circle, - and a minimum one will create more of a square with round edges. - We've already used a feather too many times in this score. - So it's always a small value of feather. - Gives us the hard and define edge and the high value soft. - And if usage, - and actually you did a low value will help us see better the previous settings for the vin - getting values as I'm showing you here. - But what happens if we want to apply vignette ing and then proper image? - Will that affect disappear? - Well, - no, - actually, - if we now crop this image and leave only the center part, - you can see that the vignette ing effect will still be there, - which is a pretty useful feature, - because sometimes you might apply in effect than then crab the image and finally, - just like we were able to remove grain or noise from her image with the stool will be able - to do the opposite and give her image is a more artistic feel. - This tool is very simple to use. - To add grain to the image, - simply move the amounts letter to the right to increase the size of this grain again. - We can move this lighter to the right and to make the edges of these rains after a rougher - will just have to move this lighter either to the left or to the right. - As I said before, - if we compare the before and after views, - adding a certain amount of grain to the picture will give them or artistic look a bit like - the pictures taken with a high I S O number when film was still around.