A Way We Sew - Collar Bands | Leah Boyan | Skillshare

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

13 Lessons (54m)
    • 1. Band Intro

      0:59
    • 2. Band Step1

      2:49
    • 3. Band Step1d

      2:03
    • 4. Band Step2

      6:37
    • 5. Band Step3

      3:09
    • 6. Band Step4

      4:36
    • 7. Band Step5

      10:59
    • 8. Band Step6

      6:42
    • 9. Band Step7

      4:36
    • 10. Band Tip 1 Fit Shirt to Band

      4:38
    • 11. Band Tip 2 Convert Existing Pattern

      3:33
    • 12. Band Tip 3 Tracing on Fold

      1:11
    • 13. Outro: Future Classes

      1:55
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About This Class

Sew a collar band with a straight, bulk-free join between the band and shirt front and consistent top-stitching, inside and out. In this Skillshare class, you'll learn how to:

  • Adapt any collar band pattern to our techniques
  • Use interfacing as a template for fast, accurate sewing
  • Make the collar band ahead of time, and attach the shirt to the band when you are ready.
  • Fit the shirt to the collar band without puckers the stress-free and accurate way - for any collar, any shirt, any time!787e25fd.jpeg

Meet Your Teacher

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Leah Boyan

Sewing classes, kits, and community

Teacher

My name is Leah and I'm the Chief Sewing Officer at A Way We Sew, and online resources for learning specific sewing techniques to elevate your sewing. I specialize in developing methods that create success not stress.

I've taught nationally for the American Sewing Guild National Conference, and locally at my favorite fabric Shop, Esthers Fabrics on Bainbridge Island, and online for hundreds of students across the country. 

I started my company, A Way We Sew, to help fellow avid sewists sew more and stress less. I take the ‘fight’ out of learning new techniques so you can spend more time doing what you love: sewing

See full profile

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Transcripts

1. Band Intro: Hi, I'm Leah and welcome to my sewing studio. In this Skillshare class, you're going to learn how to make this beautiful color band. You'll practice making a cute little sample so that you can practice all of the skills that you'll need to make a perfect color band for any shirt. In this class, you'll learn how to get that nice join between the front of the band and the front of the shirt, and also how to get tidy topstitching on the outside as well as the inside. You'll also learn how to convert any color band pattern to our techniques. You will learn exactly how to fit the shirt to the band or any pattern, any shirt, any band, any time. So join me, Leah Boyne, for a way we sew a shirt color band. 2. Band Step1: The first step is to gather your supplies and prepare your sample. The Number 1 supply we recommend, you may not have in your sewing box right now, is a friction marker. What they are is a marking pen that releases with friction or heat. If you mark this on your fabric and you have the iron, it'll disappear or obviously use friction on paper. Also in your lesson plan, you have Page 4. Print that out so you have it handy, and then cut out those pieces. The mark color we give you just to speed the process along, you don't have to create a color. That said, we do have a color class that'll create this cute little color for you in the reels. If you already have that color, you can use that or just cut it out of paper. We do recommend having, just a strip of tape on there just reinforces it if you're using paper. Other things to have is interfacing. Now we talk a lot about interfacing and it's going to all be about interfacing. Again, if you took our color class, you are going to be a little familiar with our interfacing as template techniques. We're going to do that same concept with this class, with the band. If you have a heavy or medium-weight interfacing, it's about the weight of quilting cotton. Obviously, this has some glue on there. If you don't have it, don't worry about it, just grab a piece of quilting cotton and some glue, works the same. This is a sample, don't run out and feel like you're missing out if you don't have the interface in handy. As I just mentioned, you could use glue with any kind of fabric or you can even use this template right here, and so on paper use a little bit of glue to help it to adhere and you're good to go. The other thing, I always like to have two different colors going on and I usually try to remember to put green on top and something fun bright in above. That way when I forget everything I ever learned, I can go back to the sample and I get a general idea of which direction I sewed. Speaking of sewing, the last thing that you're going to need is some hunks of fabric. I recommend a couple of different colors so that again, you can tell the outer band from the inner band, just some hunks about three by 11 is fine. Then another hunk of fabric that will turn into your shirt, your mock neck. This is a sample, this is not obviously a regular neck pattern, we're just trying to have things ready for you to just practice the technique and not worry too much about fit in this case. We are going to cover how to fit the band and the neck just right now to prepare your sample, don't worry about that. We'll just use this mock short neck pattern. Go ahead and cut that out if you haven't already or you can also use paper. 3. Band Step1d: The final step to prepare your sample is to trace and cut the template out of interfacing. Now I like to spend a little bit of time describing this because this is where everything happens, this is the action here. The interfacing template becomes what I like to say, the one to rule them all. This has to be perfectly accurate because we use the template in order to fashion the rest of the color, so it mean as some lower medial, but first, cut it out of paper, perfectly accurately, plop it onto the hunk of interfacing, note the green line, so it's parallel here. Then I like to use a little dab of glue to sort that interfacing templates the paper one onto the interfacing, so it doesn't squirrel around on me when I'm tracing it out. Then grab your friction marker. Again, this is a sample, you can use anything that you can even use a Sharpie here because we're going to trace around the interface and template and then cut away that trace line. Then you know, it's perfectly accurate. If you were to cut outside of this trace line, the interfacing template would actually be a little bit bigger so you don't want that to happen, you want it to be perfectly accurate. Cut it out of paper, trace it onto your interfacing, then cut that out as accurately as you can and check your work. You shouldn't see any red or any tracing line. Well, I could have done a better job there, but hopefully you get the objective here and that's to make this template out of interfacing perfectly accurate. You can even check your work, fold it in half, make sure these points look the same, etc. Once this is ready, you don't have to fussy cut or cut really anything anymore. This is the only time we do this hyper-accurate cutting because, as I said, this is the one to rule them all. This little piece of interfacing is going to do a lot of work for you, so cut one accounts and walk away when it doesn't. We'll see you here for the next step, which is to fuse this little piece onto a hunk of fabric and that will turn into your outer color band. 4. Band Step2: Step 2 is to simply fuse or iron your interfacing onto what will be your outer collar band, and just be sure to match the green line, so you'll be parallel to the grain of the fabric along this edge. Note the bottom edge, what will eventually attach to the neck of the shirt that's a little bit curved, but this edge here is where the collar eventually will go. When you're done with step 2, your sample should look like this. You will have turned under this bottom edge here and then top stitched that at a 1/4 of an inch, and then also trimmed away excess just along what will be the collar edge here. Notice I've trimmed it exactly along the interfacing, and we're still getting used to this concept of the interfacing as boss. Down here, it was a folding template and up here is a cutting template. Now, don't get too cut happy. We want good margins all around here, but you don't want to trim any of this yet, we're actually going to be sewing along this area here. We're going to be stitching the collar on here, and that's a 3/8 inch seam allowance. I always like to give ourselves a little bit of bonus help along the way. If you took our collar class, we talk about giving your collars bend allowance. Use your marker. Any kind of a marker is fine, it's a sample, and just trace around your interfacing along this edge, so interfacing is working again as a stitch template. It's working hard for us, so we're going to pay it back by giving a little extra room, so stitch just to the right of that trace line. This little marker here will be the space that the fabric needs to bend around all these layers. Let's go back and show you how we got the step 2 finished sample. Step 2a is simply iron this onto a hunk of fabric, and meet me here for the next step. Step 2c is to do that top stitching, and you can use a top stitch foot. I'm just going to use my regular foot just to show you that can be done. However, if you'll notice we are sewing a curve, so there's some excess or some ease happening here with this seam allowance. We want that seam allowance to be down. The action of the feed dogs will help ease in that excess fabric, because it's going around here and the outside of the curve. You want to think about this way, you are top stitching, you always want to see the thing you're top stitching. You don't want the bobbin thread to be showing. I'm using green on the top and an orange on the bottom, so it's a little easier for me to tell later, which way I topped stitch this from. Just go ahead and stick it under there. Most top stitching, you don't need to reverse, just hit the gas. I'm not using pins, I'm just letting the materials that are fold under that interfacing is being used as the folding template along that edge. You'll notice that excess fabric eased in automatically, just with the action of the feed dogs. Your final step is to just whack this excess away, and we'll see you back here. The final step of step 2 is to trim and whack. Once again, we're going to talk about the interfacing as a template. Get dirty. Let me just say this, but the whole point of this technique is to use the interfacing as a cutting, a folding, and even a stitching template. In this step, it's a fun one, because you can whack and you'll also trim. Now if you recall, the seam allowance for the collar band along the neck edge is 3/8 of an inch. We're going to be stitching right about along there at 3/8 of an inch from the collar edge of the band. We're using this edge here as a cutting template, and we do want to cut exactly along that interfacing. You don't want to cut off the interfacing, you just want to cut at the interfacing. Down here, the interfacing is already done its job. There was a folding template for this bottom edge. This is the neck line edge where it will eventually be top stitched to the neck edge of the shirt. We don't need to trim it accurately, we do it as a whack away. I like to use these scissors, certainly not required. These are called duckbilled scissors and I just hold the goods on my fingers, and you can just whack away. Not necessary to be accurate here, because who cares? You've already done the hard part. Again, we want to trim along that interfacing. Now, don't get trim happy, don't cut here. As we mentioned in the beginning, we need this area here. We haven't stitched anything yet, this is the stitching edge of your band. This is the cutting edge, so you can just start wherever up here. Just as long as while the time you get to the interfacing, you're cutting along that interfaced edge there. That's the seam allowance built into that upper edge, that's where the collar is going to be attached so that entire area is interfaced, because it gets a lot of wear and tear against the neck. We're done. Now in the beginning, we showed you the finished sample and I mentioned then, this is when I like to draw along here when we're going to do our stitching mark. The edge of the interfacing like we showed you before as a stitch template, and we're going to be ending the stitch there. Don't bother going all the way up here, because you're actually not stitching that area. Just mark along the outer collar band edge and meet me here for step number 3. 5. Band Step3: Step 3 is super simple. We're just doing a line of stitching. You could even call it a basting stitch, but we won't remove it, which is going to attach that collar to the outer collar band. The only thing to pay attention to is the stacking order. You have this little mock collar where the printing is is the upper collar. You can imagine this is where your little button holes would be or you put it attach your buttons. Your top stitching this is your finished collar and this is the public side. This is the side you want people to see, so that's your upper collar. If you were to flip it over, that would be your under collar. For the stacking order, just pay attention to this because it does seem a little backwards, you're going to put the correct side, the public side, the side you like, the good looking side, down on the machine bed. Then you're stacking on top of that. Also, the outside, this is the outer collar band, this is the public side. This is the side that people are going to see. That just means that we are showing that line of top stitching to the public and the outer band is the interfaced band. Plop the outer collar band on top of the collar with the under collar showing. The right side is down for the collar and the right side is down for the band. The public side is down, public side down, and then do a line of stitching hear at three-eighths of an inch. I will just show you where you want to line this up. This is one of those times you can check your work here. We're going to start stitching right there. That's where the end of the collar should be. If you want to just stick a pin in there just to make sure things don't move around. You want to make sure on the other end that right there is the end of that collar so that obviously this length between the two collar points when it's done, will be the same. This is just a little time to checked your work with the sample it should be accurate. Again, in the real-world, things change. That's where you'd want to match your center backs and just make sure that those are lining up there. Now we're ready to sew, so you've matched up where your collar is going to go. This is just a stay stitch you won't take it out. I do want to point out to you the position of my fingers. I'm not using any pins. I have ultimate control. I'm using one hand often underneath the other hand on top, depends on what I'm sewing and I can guide the edge of this just where I need it to be. Using the tips of my fingers, I bring my fingers to my foot, double check my work, make sure there are no surprises. Position the tips of my fingers to my foot. No need to back stitch. This is just a line of stay stitching just to make the next step a little bit easier for you. That is step number 3, we'll see you here for the next step. 6. Band Step4: Step 4 is just to sew this cute little edge here, that's the neckline edge of the collar band. This is often a little tricky edge, so just take your time, give yourself some allowance. That means you have a marked line here that follows the edge of the interfacing and you're stitching just to the right of that marked line. No need to backstitch or anything, just start somewhere here and then head right on off. Where somewhere here is is the under collar. Go ahead and grab your second hunk of fabric, anything at all. Plop your under collar unit, just plop it down. Make sure you have good margins, you don't want to run out of space. You don't want it off like that. Just make sure you have some room all the way around where that stitching is going to be and you've matched your grain. Your next step is you stitch this little seam here. It's going to look just like that when you're done. I'll do that and I'll meet you back here for the next step. Step 4b is again to do some whacking. You're just going to trim this area here where we just stitched. Trim that down to about a half-inch or so. Not too narrow, we do need something to fold onto. In this sample, I've actually got a little narrow because I ran out of fabric there. Don't do that. Just make sure you trim some off from that previous line of stitching and you can even trim your little tails at this point if you want to. That is it for that step. Meet me back here for the next one. The next step is to stitch along the collar edge and of course, the front edge here. This is going to be one long pass along here. But before you do that, flip. The prior step, we did this cute little seam here. You're going to bend that back on itself and then start stitching. That just gives you a little bit of a better start to folding this when we finally go to attach this to the shirt. Just going to be a little easier to control that edge if the stitching is holding it down for us. That's what we do and I'll demonstrate that right now. Step 4d is again to do some trimming, or you could actually call this whacking because we just stitched this seam along here, this collar edge. If you have a little excess fabric up there, now's an opportunity to just trim it off. You don't have to, I don't really need to because I got pretty close there. But just depending on what your sample looks like, just tidy that little edge up a bit and that is it. Your sample should look like this. Meet me back here and we'll show you the next step. 7. Band Step5: When you're done with step number 5, your sample will look like this. This is actually pretty involved step, even though there's only two steps to it, step a and b. When you're done, you can tell this is starting to really look like a collar band. You're going to be folding everything up and in there. Then also, we're going to tell you a little bit more about our process here. Again, using the interfacing as a guide, as a template and also demonstrating a little bit about top stitching. You can see we have this cute little box that helps hold the color in place. This is just a little area of top stitching. If you wanted to, you can switch out your foot to a top stitch foot. I am just going to go for it. I don't actually have a regular looking top stitch foot. For my machine I have this crazy compensating foot. This is considered an edge stitch foot because it just barely glides along the edge of your fabric. I'm just going to use my regular foot just in case you're at home, don't have any special feet you don't feel left out. The last thing though I do want to point out to you, that is where we stop top stitching. Take a close look here. For this sample, I forgot what I was talking about and I used orange and that's why this is orange. This is the top stitch though. Underneath here is the bobbin in green, you get the idea. I have top stitched along here, turned and then ended at my prior line of top stitching that we did way back in step number 1, that first line of top stitching. The reason that this is important, the reason you don't go all the way down here is we eventually need to get the shirt up in there. We need that little space between that top stitch in the folded edge. Don't get tempted to stitch all the way down here. You want to end at that line of top stitching. Here also you can back tack a little bit. It's not a bad idea because that edge gets a lot of wear and tear and really nail those stitches in place. Go ahead and back tack a bit there. I'll demonstrate that and we'll show you step number 5a, which is the folding, then we'll do this 5b, which is the top stitching. For 5a, we're doing the hold and fold. If you need to, you can certainly trim. This is a bit excessive here, so I'm just going to go ahead and trim that off. Now we get to do some holding and folding. We already had the machine help us out by a folding that front edge back on itself. Now we just need to fold this top edge back on itself. Pinch that. Now here's a little tip. You apply pressure there. You can even hammer that corner down to really smash the fabric. The fabric will mold. Really get some heat with your fingers. You can even heat it with the iron, hammer that, clapper will work, anything to control that bulk. You're folding that under and really keeping that nice and tight. Whatever this looks like here will be the final appearance of your collar bands. Make sure that looks nice. You don't want it sticking out like that or bent over like that. I folded it down, I'm pinching with my left hand, I happen to be right-handed. I'm sticking my thumb up in between those two layers and I'm transferring over. Now I'm holding my right finger, holding that little seam allowance and just flip it over. It should pop out on its own. If it doesn't, this point you can gently coax everything to fold, you don't want to shove. Don't use a chopstick or anything like that, use something pointy to just gently form that corner. You don't want to shove anything up in there. It should look something like this. The same for the other side. Fold over, melt that point. If you wanted to, you can turn off anything that's lingering. Reach here the thumb fold and it should pop right out for you. Then at this point, go ahead and go to the iron if you want to. I am lazy. I'm going to show you the lazy way to do the top stitching in the next step. I'll see you here soon. The next step is to do some top stitching. As I mentioned, I'm going to show you the lazy way to top stitch. We do want a top stitch from the public side, that's the interface side. Even though there is some debate if you really want to call this the public side, because if we think about it, this is actually going to be hidden under the collar. You could top stitch it from this side if you really wanted to. I suggest though you do top stitch it from the interfacing side. Because the interfacing is the [inaudible] a little easier to handle on the top. Also this may be a little looser. We can have the action of the fiddles slightly ease in any excess fabric that may have been sneaking around underneath. You'll notice if I pull on that bottom layer, I can then fold that top layer over that stitching line, and I just use my fingers to crease that. Just work my way down. Pulling, increasing, pulling, increasing. Of course you can heat it with the iron but I found, number 1, I'm lazy and number 2, sometimes when I heat with the iron I haven't pulled that fabric out of the way and it forces a crease in there, then it's hard to untrain that once you have it with the iron. I tend to just use my finger, of course you can flip it over and use your finger again to score, pulling and scoring along that collar. That is a little trick there. Now we're ready to do our top stitching. As I mentioned in the prior step, we are starting and stopping at our previous line of top stitching. Now, if you feel a little uncomfortable about this, you can go ahead and just leave that alone for now and you can always go back and top stitch it when maybe you have an edge stitch for what you want, or you're just not really feeling like I need to top stitch that today. You don't have to do this step right now. You can always do it later, but I happen to feel pretty confident today about my top stitching skills, so I'm going to go for it. I'm starting with the needle right on that prior line of top stitching. I'm just going to take a couple of stitches. Back again and go almost to the end. I think I want to go a tiny bit more, but I'm going to lower my stitch length. I don't want to go off. I just caught it. I'm just going to go ahead and stitch to underneath. Turn again and stitch. Slowing down to the end. You go one more. Turn it. Turn again. Don't forget, we're ending our stitching at that prior line of top stitching. Now one last thing you can do if you'd like in that stitching this little box here. As I mentioned, that helps the excess, the seam allowance of the collar to lie a little bit flatter. Why don't we just go a head and do that? Just start really anywhere underneath the collar. Do some stitches. I'm just going to blast [inaudible] It's starting to look like a collar band. Trim anything if you need to, and meet us back here for the next step. The final part of step 5, is to do this line of stay stitching along the under collar. Now, don't skip this step. You may be wondering what is this for? Why are we doing this? I don't understand. The point of this is to use again, the interfaced edge of your outer collar band as a template for where to attach the inner collar to the shirt. Now, the end of this lesson, we have a whole section on fitting the shirt to the band. This step is key for that process. When you're ready in the real-world to create your own band in your shirt, that's the section is really going to highlight how to get this all to fit. As I mentioned though, we're just doing a sample. We're just practicing our muscle memory here. Please don't skip this step. It's very simple. Again, using that interfacing as a little template, just gliding along there, hope you can see that on camera. Then I'm just going to do a line of stitching on that marked line. I should call it a stay stitch line because we're going to use it to match to the neck band. I'm just now stitching along that line. Just get as close as you can. Don't worry too much at that little area there if you're not able to get too close to it, it's totally fine. You're really mostly concerned with that line along with the rest of the neck edge. At this point, you can just whack excess seam allowance here. You only really need about 3/8 of an inch. Just go ahead and trim that down a little bit. It'll make the final step much easier. Give yourself about 3/8 of an inch. Now we're ready for step number 6. 8. Band Step6: A Step 6 A is just a real quick one. We just need to prepare our mock neck for insertion. You should have your color band unit complete. The color is attached to the band, and it's ready to insert onto the shirt. But let's get our little mock shirt ready. Grab your mock shirt pattern and if you want to just use paper feel free if you just want to use this as the piece that you're going to sew onto. That's what I did for my sample because I'm lazy. But if you want to use fabric you might find that a little easier to simulate. Go ahead and use your pattern. Basically, it's just a chunk of fabric about 11 inches long by about three inches. This doesn't give us a whole lot of room, but I wanted to keep it the size of a piece of paper just to make it a little easier for you. I think to do for this is just mark your center back and also these little fold lines because that's going to simulate the front plaque. This is just a little sample they keep saying it's not an actual plaque. We just want to get to the good stuff. I just use a little notch sometimes as well, depending on what kind of fabric I'm using that's all you need to do there. This is actually a full bind. If you really wanted to, you could notch down here as well just to make that process a little easier, just quick and dirty fold that back, you can iron it if you want to. If you really want to get technical about it, you could do a line of stitching to simulate a plaque. Go ahead and do that for the other side and meet me back here for the next step. Okay. For step B, the stitching step, I drop my needle first, lift my pressure foot and I shove my work right up against there. That way I know that I'm starting right on the edge of my work and it can help wrap that around. Now some of you, you might have the machine that likes to eat your fabric. If that's the case, just stick something back there for it to grab onto just an extra piece of fabric or really anything so that when you start stitching, it already knows where you want it to go. Remove the pins and I just do a couple of stitches forward, back-stitch, right off the fabric, and then I go forward again. and at this point, you can push the top layer, that outer color band out of the way so that you can see where you're going to stitch. You don't want to catch that, I don't if you can tell here, but I'm not sewing on the band. I'm sewing just to the right of that band along that prior line of stitching right on top of that line stitching. When I'm getting close here, you might notice I'm going to be a little bit off. There's a couple of ways you can manage this. I just tend to cheat and I'll just coax my shirt and I got to probably a little farther away than I normally would just because I am not paying that much attention here because I'm teaching as I'm sewing. Bur in case. So I lift up my work in just ease my shirt ever so slightly in. Now take a couple of stitches and just barely ease it under there. See how coaxes it in there and the feed dogs are helping as well. Now if you're really getting in trouble in this part, you could certainly take it out and start from this edge and go in. But I am doing pretty fine here. You also notice I am using an awl, but you could use a needle, thick needle here and just pull that band towards you just ever so slightly so that you get those things to match. I'm going to sketch all the way off, back stitch and I'm done. The next step is to fold all of this inside and I'll show you that in just a minute. Okay, Step 6C is we're nearly done here. We're just going to fold everything up and into our work and do a little trimming, dressing it up a little bit. Sometimes these little threads can even get in the way of your folding is a need to, at this point, you could certainly trim any excess away here if it's getting in the way of being able to fold it up in there. I have also seen in ready to air we'll fold under that edge a little bit to get it nicely fold up in there. You can also use an awl, I don't know how to pronounce it to get it shoved up in there or if you need to trim it, as I said, you feel free I am going to turn mine just a tiny bit. I'll show you on camera here. Just trim that just a little bit fit up in there. I just use a needle or my awl to coax it up in there. Here's another opportunity where you can pound the heck out of this if you wanted to, you can hammer that point, that edge right there to flatten and to meld those fibers together. You can already see how this is going to look just fabulous. Our final step is Step 7, and that's to top stitch this down. I'll show you before we get there though, let me do the same thing Steps 6C on this side, I'm just going to fold that little edge back on itself. That's seam allowance back on itself and then shove it up in there. There's in one. It's ready to roll, right? Maybe you back here for the final. 9. Band Step7: Our final step is here, we're doing some top stitching. As I mentioned in the instructions, you could use a edge stitch foot here if you wanted to. I'm just going to go rogue and do it without one in case you don't have one at home either. I mentioned earlier though, trim on your yellow whiskers away, they do tend to get in the way and they're not as pretty looking. Then we're doing the same idea as our last stitch, which is where we put our needle down first and then shoved the work right up against it and then drop the needle. I do use it all. You could use a needle here or just your fingers. I find an awl is a little easier for me when I'm teaching because you can see better. I think with the awl here, it also works with your finger. Take a couple of stitches. Back stitch all the way off and back on again. Now the point of the game here is to line up this folded edge to just barely cover that prior line of stitching. Take your time. Now, we're getting close to the end, so you want to check your work here. If it does look like maybe you're going to have a pucker or something in there, this is where you can pull on the shirt to stretch it a little bit so you have a little excess shirt material to get around that curve. I usually just prick little part of the interior seam allowance of this shirt just to get it shoved in there. Then stitching off the shirt, one stitch and back on. That will wrap around nicely. That's it. This is the outer color band. Let's just see that. Does now look great, you've got nice even top stitching. Flat here. They matched. Now, a couple of things to note. In the real world, this line of stitching here would have been in the same color as your shirt. You will not even see that. Now, obviously I use green, so it's quite obvious here. But if you look at a ready-to-wear garment, you will often see a light line of stitching right there. Look at the inside. Just as beautiful as the outside. Line of stitching is exactly along the edge of the color band. It'd be hard for you to tell which side you top-stitched from and we know because we top-stitched from the green side. But look at that, just perfectly even all the way around. So this is more an open, it looks just as nice on the inside as it does on the outer side. So congratulations. That is how we create and we sew the color band. Up next is going to be a deeper dive into how to fit the color band to the shirt and we also have many more videos on shirt making. We have cuff making, we have plackets, front pockets, matching prints. So much more to learn about shirt making, yolks, etc. I really look forward to seeing you here and thank you so much for your time. That's a way we sew a color band. 10. Band Tip 1 Fit Shirt to Band: Another hot tip. Big question. How do you get the band and the shirt to come together, so that they're beautiful, no puckers, the shirt is nice and smooth, the band is smooth. The band itself is a nice fit around the neck and then the shirt fits the band. That is the key. You want to fit the shirt to the band. In step 5 and step 6, we talked about applying the inner color to the inside of the shirt. When we were demonstrating that I had you stab through the stay stitching line and matching that up exactly with the shirt stay stitching line. That's your first pass. Now, with a little samples, everything is going to fit because we made it that way. But in the real-world, a lot can go wrong or just get altered, unbeknownst you while you're building the shirt. There's a lot of areas here when you're touching the yoke, the scene could get bigger or smaller perhaps or the front placket that maybe isn't the same size as it was supposed to be. The shirt neck opening can really stretch or change shape from the original pattern size. What does not change though, is the band. When you think about it, you've done a lot of work on this band. You have interfacing in there, you have a lot of stitching, the band is done. The band is also what you measure to fit a shirt. In the real-world, let's say you're a sixteen-and-a-half, you would measure from about an eighth of an inch from the edge of the buttonhole, all the way to the middle of the button. This little color, is an eight-and-half. Obviously this is just a sample. That's how you measure for a shirt neck, so you try it on if it fits your neck, you're good. The color band is done. You're in that change, that measurement is not going to change. What will change is the neck opening. Think of this as the circumference of a circle. We're looking down bird's eye view. This is the back, the yoke, the front and your neck is around here somewhere. That neck opening is a circle, the band is a straight line. This is not going to change, this is. Let's say you start attaching your band. Now, I start here, I keep this the same. This green here represents the seam line for your pattern, whatever that is, keep that there because you do want these sides to match and you don't want to go fiddling around here because you want to keep the distance from that first buttonhole to the neck static. This is matching up to your color band. Start there, then add or subtract as you need to, as you go around the circumference of the circle. Your circle will be slightly oblong. Let's say the shirt's too small. You ran out of shirt. If the shirt too small, make the hole bigger. You'd start here. You're stitching line is going to change on the shirt, just on the shirt, not on the band. Your new stitching line will look something like that. If we were to measure the circumference of this now we probably gained about a quarter of an inch maybe, maybe a little more. Now, pin the color band to the shirt and the shirt is now a bit bigger. Shirt too big, same idea. Instead of the green line, which is the original stitching line, if we were to touch on that line, the shirt was too big, no problem just bring it in. This is why if I hadn't mentioned and I don't think I have on your pattern when you're cutting out your pattern, you want to keep a big seam allowance here just so you have some space to work with. Some pattern companies will have trimmed this to a quarter inch already. Keep it big and beefy. Just mark your stitching line so you know where it's intended to be and then you can adjust it accordingly. I hope that that helps fit the shirt to the band. Let me know if you have any questions and we'll look forward to seeing your beautifully fit color bands. Thank you so much. 11. Band Tip 2 Convert Existing Pattern: In order to convert your existing pattern into our A Way We Sew methods, we first recommend that you photocopy that existing pattern onto regular piece of paper using a photocopier, because you don't want to mess up the original pattern. You can lose some information. This is a really good example of that. I don't know if you can see here, but it says center back fold. How do I cut this on my size line? I would have lost that information and I wouldn't ever know that that's actually fold and not the seam line. Just preserve your original pattern, take a photocopy of it, picture of it, however you need to do, and then use the photocopy to do messing around with. Now, speaking of photocopy, we also like to show you some hot tips about using different products you may not be familiar with. One of them is freezer paper. If you're not familiar with freezer paper, I'm happy to introduce you to in my favorite Sewing Notions. It's got a shiny side that when you press with a light iron, it actually adheres lightly to the fabric but doesn't leave any residue. You can use it for tracing paper. I basically use this as pattern paper and template paper and it's rugged enough, it can hold up over and over again. The other thing we're going to show you after this video is how to trace this out on the fold because you want a full copy of the collar band. What we need to do is remove the seam allowances, but only on the outer collar band edge. What am I talking about here? If you look at a finished collar, the outer collar band edge is this here, and then along here where it attaches to the neck. This is the collar edge. We actually need seam allowance there because, well, you need to attach the collar to something. But we want that entire seam allowance to be interfaced. Because if you think about it, this is up against the neck, it gets a lot of wear and tear. Think about beard stubble. You're going to iron it a lot. Anyway, that visual, you get the idea. You want to have that interfaced all the way into the seam allowance because that's where it attaches to the collar. That's where it can get really confusing. Also, if you have multi-sided patterns, just keep your wits about you. What I recommend is draw with green your seam stitch line; the original stitch line. In this particular pattern it's a 5/8 inch seam allowance. Now pay attention because some Indie pattern companies have varying seam allowances. They often will have already changed the seam allowances for you. Pay attention and draw as I said, on your current stitch line. Measure that, draw all the way around, then take away everything on this outer collar band edge. No seam allowance all along here. But change the seam allowance here to be 3/8 of an inch. The original was 5/8 of an inch, so we took off 1/4 inch. Do the math however, you need to, maybe make multiple copies because if you're like me, you'll mess up. Again, don't do it on the original pattern piece. Stand by, I will show you how to trace this out very quickly on the fold. While you're at it, make a couple of copies of this because you can then very easily just use that other side to have the second side of it. I'll see you here for how to trace on the fold. Thanks so much. Bye. 12. Band Tip 3 Tracing on Fold: This is another one of those remedial projects. You might think you're in kindergarten, but whatever helps. When you are tracing out your pattern in the real-world, for your band, you want a full pattern, so you want to have both sides, you don't want to cut it on the fold. The reason why I go through these steps is it's really easy if you're on the fold to not quite get this lined up correctly and then you get like a V formation, so this is just an easy way to avoid that happening. Place your band pattern right side down on a piece of paper and tape it but cut the tape so it doesn't extend this way, and then draw a straight line and that's what you place the edge of your pattern against that line and make sure it's perfectly straight up and down against that line. Extend the line a little bit on either side of the pattern so that when you open this up, you know if it's straight or not. It's very easy for that tape to peel off. You want to make sure that's nice and straight and then stick another piece of tape on here so it won't scroll around anymore. Now, you've already traced in, now you can cut it out and you'll know that both sides are equal. We'll see you here for more Way We Sew lessons, thank you so much. 13. Outro: Future Classes: Join me for future Skillshare classes where you'll learn how to make a beautiful cuff that looks as good on the outside as it does on the inside. You'll learn how to make a sleeve placket, two piece plackets, so you could do two separate colors if you wanted to. It's going to be sturdy and very tidy, with a nice tower. You'll also learn how to do a pocket very simple, quick technique there. How to do a front placket, how to do a two flat fell seam for the side seams and the shoulder seam and also not to forget about the yoke. How to do a beautiful, nicely top stitched yoke all in one, you can't even tell which side you created it from. We'll learn all of these techniques. Also one last thing, we'll show you how to do a nice tidy rolled hand no puckers, it will look fabulous inside and out. Join me, Leah Boyan for A Way We Sew. We'll have entire series on how to get your shirt together, but in the meantime, we're here to show you how to make a beautiful collar band and you'll have the techniques when you teach. Once you take this course, once you take this class, you'll learn all the techniques to make a collar band just like this one. Isn't that beautiful? Even top stitching on the inside, as well as the outside. Nice, tidy join here at the front. It just looks great. You'll be proud to wear or to gift a shirt for that special someone and we look forward to seeing you here for get your shirt together.