A Beginner’s Guide to Adobe Lightroom for Photographers | Kaiwan Shaban | Skillshare

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A Beginner’s Guide to Adobe Lightroom for Photographers

teacher avatar Kaiwan Shaban, Visual Artist

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

27 Lessons (1h 54m)
    • 1. Intro

      1:43
    • 2. Why Adobe Lightroom?

      1:18
    • 3. How to Import and Export

      5:14
    • 4. Filter Your Photos

      3:44
    • 5. Metadata

      3:32
    • 6. Develop Mode

      4:06
    • 7. Histogram

      2:51
    • 8. Basic Adjustment

      7:25
    • 9. Tone Curves

      7:50
    • 10. HSL

      4:46
    • 11. Color Grading

      3:48
    • 12. Split Tonning

      2:49
    • 13. Lens Correction

      3:26
    • 14. Details

      3:36
    • 15. Transform Panel

      3:34
    • 16. Effect Panel

      4:50
    • 17. Calibration

      2:27
    • 18. Crop Tool

      2:58
    • 19. Red Eye Correction

      1:09
    • 20. Spot Removal Tool

      3:03
    • 21. Selective Edit

      5:42
    • 22. Range Mask

      3:00
    • 23. ShortCuts

      2:38
    • 24. What Are Presets

      3:37
    • 25. How to Create a Preset

      3:39
    • 26. How and Where to Sell Presets

      5:37
    • 27. Edit with me

      15:59
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About This Class

THANK YOU FOR JOINING MY LIGHTROOM MASTERCLASS

  • WHAT YOU WILL LEARN?

In this course, you will learn all the basic and advanced tools of Lightroom to retouch your photos professionally. My name is Kaiwan Shaban and I’m an International published photographer and retoucher for more than 8 years.

So I can guarantee that you will take a lot from this course and I’ll be revealing all of my secret tricks that I’ve been using for the past years to develop my own style.

First, we will get into the basic tools.

Such as

  • How to import and export your photos, How to filter your photos.
  • Sync metadata and add Copywrite to your images.
  • Understanding the basic adjustment and histogram!
  • How to use curves in different RGB Channels
  • Being able to have control over your colors with HSL
  • Color Grading your photos properly
  • Adding grain and texture to your photos
  • Sharpening your photos using details
  • Correcting your geometry with transform
  • And understanding the calibration

And then we will gradually take it to the next level by understanding the three most important tools for selective editing.

  • Adjustment Brush 
  • Radial Filter
  • Gradient Filter 

And last but not least we will get into

How to create Your own Presets and even, How to sell them and make a profit from it. and then I will teach you all the essential Shortcuts to make your editing flow faster! 

Above all of this, I’ll be including some of my RAW Photos where you can practice on them too! And a bunch of premium presets so you can enhance your photos easily!

WHY LIGHTROOM?

Before we get into the technical side. You might be wondering why Lightroom?

You might say Photoshop is enough and in most cases, I could agree with you. Because Lightroom comes with some limitations. For example, you can’t combine photos and create something completely out of this world, for example, you can't remove a background in lightroom,

But The main reason you need to learn Lightroom is simply that it’s the fastest software to edit multiple pictures at once professionally. Being a photographer. There are times we take up to 1000 photos a day. And it could be even more. It’s impossible to edit all of them at once using photoshop. It could take months of work, But with the lightroom is a completely different story.

Just Being Able to copy and paste one certain look and maintain the cohesive style all the way creating looks and saving them as presets. where you can create your own signature look and import different effects to your Photos.

So pretty much the main focus will be on tools you need to get the most out of Lightroom.

Let's get to it.

Meet Your Teacher

Teacher Profile Image

Kaiwan Shaban

Visual Artist

Teacher

My name is Kaiwan, I'm a Visual Artist, Internationally published photographer, and filmmaker. 

Throughout my career, I've worked with a number of high-end clients including Apple, Mercedes, Oppo, Sony Music, Crypto.com, and Warner Bros.

I love teaching what I know about the world | My online store // www.k1production.com 

 

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Transcripts

1. Intro: Thank you for joining my Lightroom Masterclass. In this course, you will learn all the basic and advanced tools of Lightroom so you can retouch your photos professionally. My name is Kaiwan Shaban and I'm an internationally publish photographer and retoucher for more than eight years. I can guarantee you that you will take a lot from this course and I'll be revealing all of my secrets and trick that I've been using for the past years to develop my own style. First, we will get into the basic tools such as importing and exporting your photos, filtering your photos, sync metadata, and add copyright your images, understanding the basic adjustments and histogram, how to use curves and different RGB channels, and being able to have control over your colors with the HSL, color grading your photos, adding green and texture to your photos, sharpening using details, correcting your geometry with transform and understanding the calibration. Then we will gradually take it to the next level by understanding the three most important tools for selective editing, which are: adjustment brush, radial filter, and gradient filter. Last but not least, we will get into how to create your own preset and even how to sell them and make profit out of it. Then I will teach you all the essential shortcuts where you need to learn to make your editing workflow much faster and by the end of this course, you'll be able to transform a photo like this to something like this using Lightroom only. Above all of this, I'll be including some of my raw photos where you can actually practice on them too, and a bunch of premium preset where you can enhance your photos with them easily. Without further ado guys, let's just get into it. 2. Why Adobe Lightroom?: Hi guys. Before we get into the technical side, you might be wondering, why do you need to learn Lightroom? Well, that's a very good question. Some of you guys might say that Photoshop is enough, you can pretty much do anything with it, why do I need to learn Lightroom? You're right. There are some certain level of limitation when it comes to editing on Lightroom. For example, the simplest thing you can not do with Lightroom is to remove a background with your photos. But the main reason you want to learn Lightroom is not because you want to create something out of this world with Lightroom, the main reason is because it is the fastest software out there to edit multiple photos at once professionally. Being a photographer, there are times where you have thousand of photos and you want to edit them quickly. Obviously, it is impossible to edit all these photos with Photoshop because it could take a month of work to finalize thousand of photos and edit them one-by-one. With Lightroom, it is a complete different story. Just being able to copy and paste one certain log and maintain that cohesive style that you've always been looking for. Pretty much the main focus will be on the tools that you can take the best out of Lightroom as a photographer. Let's for real get into it. 3. How to Import and Export : Let's begin. The first thing that I want to talk about is probably the simplest thing, which is how to import and export your photo. Basically, these are the photos that I already imported. I was recovering and going through my old folder, these are the photos that I imported again, to my Lightroom. It's very easy. There's already import section. You click on it. If have, already, an SD card or a hard drive, external hard drive plugged in, in your computer, you will automatically go to your SD card and then you can just directly import from your SD card. But personally, my favorite way of importing photos to Lightroom is I start copying my photos and I put them in a folder and then I click here and I go to other source. Then I will choose the place where I have my folders and import the pictures right away. You choose and then you click on "Import". Basically, this is how I import. I also make sure that I don't have suspected duplicates photos. I check this and the photos will not be duplicated inside Lightroom. Then click "Import" and that's all you need to know for now. To import your photos, let's say I have this photo here, right here. Let's go to Develop mode. Let's say I'm done with the edit. Now, the next thing is basically you don't see it, but here is the file. I'm sorry about that. I somehow cropped the screen recorder. But yeah, here you have the file and then you have Export or you can hold Control command and then E, and then you have this one. The first thing we have Export Location, and this is very important for me to know where my photos are going after editing. I mostly choose same folder as the original photo. Then I have this checked on, which is "Put in a Subfolder." For example, you can go with "Edited SRGB." SRGB, we're going to get to the file setting in a bit. I'm going to explain what is SRGB, what is ProPhoto and all of that. But yeah, guys, this is how I choose location for my photos, but also it depends on what I'm going to do and what I want to do with it. Again, these are all the options you have. You have choose specific folder, you have choose folder later, you have all these option here. Scroll down a little bit and now we have file naming. In file naming, I don't really touch anything. I usually like to have the same name because when I search, I can find the edited and non-edited JPEG file in the same time, which is really cool. Now, we have video. We don't have any videos right now, but if you don't know that you can already import videos and apply preset on your videos inside Lightroom, then you're somehow missing out. I know it's a bit complicated, but we're going to get that. I'm going to create a special class for that in the end of this course to show you how you can somehow import your videos and apply preset on them and export them in a way. All of that, you will see in the next upcoming videos. Then we have file setting. Now, this is really important, guys. I usually go with JPEG for myself. DNG is a really powerful file too, for high-quality image, but JPEG is the most common format, and it works pretty much with every website. For social media, it's pretty good. I usually go with a quality for 100 because I want to have a good-quality image when I post something. The color space is also really, really important. Let me quickly explain. ProPhoto RGB profile is usually used for high-printed quality image. If you want to print pictures or if you want to put in a very big website, you want to have the whole quality there, then ProPhoto is the best option to go. But for me, for social media workflow, I think Adobe RGB is probably the best one to go with. Also, SRGB is not that bad, but Adobe is even higher than SRGB. For me, as a professional photographer, I would prefer Adobe RGB. The reason, all of these setting were messed up because I wanted to show you my way of doing it. This is how I adjust my setting. I have a couple of presets here, which is really cool, where after you're done with your adjustment, you can add a preset and you don't have to do the adjustment all over again. Here, I have one for website. Here, I have one for social media and one just SRGB. Pretty much like that. Then I go ahead and export my photo. But if you also want to go right away to Photoshop, here, you have the option to go with post-processing. You can go to Photoshop 2020 right away. After you export it, Photoshop automatically opens. But I'm not going to do that in my case. Let's go ahead Export, and you have the photo exported. 4. Filter Your Photos : Guys, in this video, I'm going to explain to you how you can filter your photos. When it comes to Lightroom, in the long run, you will have a lot of photos. We're talking about thousand of photos. These tools will definitely help you to organize your photos in a better way, to somehow find them, if you ever want to look for it. You can find these photos by filtering and organizing these photos right away when you have a very clean and organized gallery. For example, in our case, we have Attribute here when you are in Library section, and then we have Metadata. But first of all, let's talk about Attribute. In Attribute, we have color labels. For example, when you go to Library here, you can add labels to your photos by pressing 6, which is red, 7, yellow, 8, green, 9, and so on. You get the point. Then let's say you have some certain photos that you really like, and you make them blue. Then all you need to do is, just to find them, you have to click on blue. These are the photos that are labeled with blue color. In the same way, we have Rating here. For example, I have some photos that are only 5-star, that are the best photos to edit. This is usually when I start my Lightroom workflow, I start rating photos. For example, by pressing 3, if you want to add them to 3-star, 5, or 0, to remove the stars. This is again to filter your photos and to find the best photos that you want to edit and work on it. This way, your workflow is way faster by organizing it, by rating it, and you can easily find the photos that you're looking for. These are the two really important tool that you should be using, Labeling and Rating. We have also Flag where you can flag a certain photo, for example, rejected photos that you don't want to see. But I usually don't use that at all, so I don't think it's really important. Now, let's talk about Metadata. Metadata is really an interesting place. For example, in my case, I only took photos with one camera and lens, that's why it shows the only lens that we have here, which is 35 millimeter 1.4 Sigma Art. We have one camera which is Sony a7 III. But let's jump to this folder here. As you can see, if we go to Metadata, we have different type of cameras, which is Canon EOS 5D Mark IV, Sony a7 III, all these different lenses. For example, I want to see only the picture that I took with 15 millimeter, 1.4. Automatically, you'll see all the photos that you took with that certain lens. I personally don't use this tool much, but it's really interesting to know that you have such tools to find certain photos. You never know, you might make a review photo that you want to compare different photos, so you have this tool to compare between two lenses. Again, these are the filtering way to organize your photos in a better way, point is to find detailed information that is stored within your photos in Metadata. I personally don't use it much, I usually use the Attribute, which is Color, Labeling, and Rating, but it's also a great available option to have. 5. Metadata: In this video, we're going to talk about metadata. When you're in library, you have these metadata which are the information that are stores within the photo itself. For example, you have the cropped dimensions here, all the details, the exposure, focal length, and all the things that you might not really care. But there's one thing that I get benefit from this tool, which is the preset that I use from my photos when I import them, which is adding copyright to your photos. For example, I have already preset where I have, for example, let's go to edit this preset. Yeah, as you can see here in copyright section, I have Kaiwan Shaban. All rights reserved, copyrighted, and I have my website. You can do pretty much the same thing, and you can save the preset like that. Also, you can add creators here. You can add a lot of information to your photos. Let's say if it leaks online, whenever somebody download it, you have all the rights or ID stores in your photo. Now I added my preset here. The cool thing about this, you can synchronize the use metadata to all of your photos. For example, if I go Command all, and then I will sync metadata, which is my copyright and all the information that I stored in the preset. Then click Synchronize, and now all of your photos are synchronized with the same metadata and the copyright information will be stored in all the photos that you imported. As you can see, let's go to this photo here. You have here the copyright, Kaiwan Shaban. You can pretty much add so much more information, but for me this is enough. Anything happen online, I can ask for my right, which is a copyright thing. We're almost done with metadata, but the long-lasting that I want to show you is when you click on "Import", you can literally add the same information right away here. Apply during import, which is we have this section called metadata. Whenever, let's say for example, I have some photos here that I want to import, and here in metadata I already have the preset ready. Now when you click on "Import", all the photos will be stored with the copyrighted preset. But the problem is whenever you import new photos, you have to redo the process, you have to not forget to check this preset section. But to make it easier for yourself, you can create a preset for all the section to have it ready already. For example, I already have the preset here. You can save here, save current setting as a new preset. You can write it like K1, let's say. Now this preset will be applied right away automatically whenever you import new photos, and that is the metadata that you already stored in the preset. That's why I really love Lightroom because it helps your workflow to be done faster by saving all these presets that are ready to use right away whenever you want them. 6. Develop Mode: In this video, we're going to talk about Develop Section. This is where the magic actually happens. Primarily, this is the start point for the editing process, where you can start with the basic adjustments, all these amazing tools to create such results. I'm going to explain it very fast, but in the next upcoming videos, we're going to go in details. So start off, we're going to start with Basic Adjustment. This is where you basically change the White Balance, Exposure, Contrast, all the important photography adjustment. We have Highlights, Shadows, Whites, Black, we have Texture to add more Texture to your photos, Clarity, Dehaze to dehaze or decrease a dehaze, Vibrance, Saturation. Usual, normal tool for basic adjustments to really start off your editing process with. Now, here we have Tone Curve. Basically, this is a very important tool in Lightroom and you can do many things with it, especially when you have different channels that you can play with red, green, and blue colors in your Tone Curve. You can truly be creative with this tool and we're going to get to that later on. Here we have the HSL section. This is probably my favorite section when it come to Lightroom, where you have all the control to your colors in the image by changing the Saturation, Hue, and Luminance. Then we have Split Toning where you can add certain colors to your highlights or your shadows and then you can create a balance between them. We have Detail, Sharpening Tool, Noise Reduction, Lens Correction; you can basically correct your lens distortion in the photo. Transform, Effect, Calibration, all of that, we're going to have different videos and we're going to explain all of them in details. Now, let's come to this panel which we have the Adjustment Brush, where you can brush some certain areas on your photo. We have similar to brush, but it's more like a circle adjustment tool. Then we have Gradient where you can have one line of the adjustment. Then we have Red Eye fixer or Pet Eye fixer. Here, we have a brush for Clone or Healing to, let's say, if you have some spots on the skin or there's something you want to remove in the photo, you can use these tools and it's very beneficial at some cases. Then we have Crop Tool, which you probably already know what it is. So in this side of Develop Section, we have all the preset that we imported to our preset collection that, for example, I have a bunch of preset that I created and that I am currently selling on my website, k1production.com, and these are all the preset that I usually use, and this is probably the biggest reason that I love Lightroom so much, where you can pretty much save different type of look, who have a very quick edit. All you need to do, do just one click and then adjust it wherever you want. For example, this is one of the preset that I used from my Kodak film, a cinematic preset pack that I have, and this is the before, this is the after, as you can tell, with some adjustment. You can create such results like that. But we're going to get that also in details. So you can also create your own preset and work with them anytime you want. So guys, pretty much, that's it. Here, you have all the photos that you already imported. Here, you can just label it, this is the attribute tools. This is where you can find your labeled color photos. Last but not least, we have Histogram here, which is really important to understand how Histogram works because it can help you in some certain situation that you really need to know what's going on. There'll be another upcoming, detailed video about Histogram and how it works. So yeah, for now, this is all you need to know about Develop Section. 7. Histogram: In this video we're going to talk about histogram. It is really important to understand histogram. It might seem a little bit complicated when you look at it, but it's actually very easy to understand. Here I'm going to overboard on my histogram. As you can see, it has a shape of a mountain. To understand histogram completely, we have to know that the right side is pure white and the opposite is pure black, left side. Here we have shadow, here we have mid tone, or we can call exposure and last but not least, we have highlights here. Now when I bump the exposure, as you can tell, the shape of the mountain will slowly move to the right side. That means every detail that is stored within the picture is going to be white. Here you can see the colors of the picture of where they stand. I'm going to show the clipping of the white and also show the clipping of the black. Right now when I jump to exposure and bump it up, you can already see here we have pure white. This is the red part that is showing the clipping, and slowly, everything becomes red, almost everything. For example, if we add more white, and add more shadow, add more highlight, it slowly we're losing pretty much everything. This red shows that almost everything is blown out with exposure. Now let's reset the picture. Now the histogram is back to normal. It goes the same way when you bring down the exposure. As you can see the shape of the mountain slowly going to the left side. Here we're seeing that this part is completely blown out and there is no much information. It's pure dark here. I hope it's clear now. Let's go back to reset. All you need to know is why the shape is representing this way. Sometimes you don't see if a certain area in your photo is blown out or is completely dark. So even after resetting the photo, if you zoom in, you can see that there are some parts of the photo that are somehow blown away with pure white. To fix that, you need to go to highlight and then maybe also bring down some whites. Now you have corrected the histogram. But it depends, again, on the taste and how you want it. Maybe you want to blow something up. Histogram can be used not only in the editing process, but it's also really important when you take your photos to look at your histogram if you have not blown some kind of exposure or highlighted part or the shadow part. If anything is too dark or if it's too bright, you can see through your histogram. 8. Basic Adjustment: All right, guys. First things first, we're going to talk about the basic adjustment that we have here. Well, let's go ahead and click "Reset" because this is already edited. As you can tell, first of all, we have white balance. This is really, really important. It is very ideal to start off fixing your white balance because sometimes our cameras have some issues with white balance, so when the white balance is in auto mode, sometimes you just have a terrible white balance and by meaning that, you have probably a very cold photo or a very warm photo. In my case, I don't think I have any issue with that, but just to notice because when you don't have a corrected white balance, eventually, you will not have such good results in your final result editing. Now, we scroll down. We have exposure. Now here, where you can brighten up your photo or darken it, this is probably one of the most common tool that you can use. Usually, I'm a big fan of less exposure photos, but it depends on the taste and what you're going for. Next thing we have is contrast. Now, if you look up to the definition of contrast in photography, it's the visual ratio of different tones in an image. This difference is what creates a texture, highlights, shadows, colors, and clarity in a photograph. For example, when you're increasing the contrast, you're bumping the whiteness and the darkness of the whole photo as you can see like the black is more black; the white is more white. When you decrease it, it's pretty much the opposite. The white is less white; the black is less black. Remember, it's just how it works with contrast. Usually, I like to have my contrast in between, around 15-20, but again, it depends on your photo and what kind of taste you have. With that in mind, I would like to redefine highlights as the brightest area in a photo in which one can still see the details. The same is true of a great shadow. A shadow is defined as the darkest area of the photo in which you can still see the details. This is why you should keep in mind to not overdo the highlights and shadow. For example, you can add so much highlight to the point that you pretty much you're losing some details and some areas in your photo. For example, here, we are almost losing all the details here, and when you zoom in here, again, the same process goes to the shadows. You have almost no details. Guys, it's really important to not overdo it. In my case, I usually like to decrease my highlights and add a little bit of shadows, but again, I need to mention that these are your personal taste and how you want to approach your photos. Next thing we have is whites and blacks. Whites is almost as highlight, by the difference is highlights control a slimmer range of tonal values than the Whites. Absolutely key to understand here is that the highlight slider will not adjust the white point in the image; only the Whites slider will do that. For example, if we jump the Whites from 0-100, as you can see, it's way different from Highlights and what highlight is doing. It will basically bright up almost the whole photo with brightness. If we do the same thing for our highlight, as you can see, it will only affect the highlighted part in the photo, and I usually like to have my black decrease a little bit around minus 15. Yeah, now, things get a little bit more interesting with Presence here. We have Texture, Clarity, Dehaze. As you can read from names, Texture will basically add more texture to your photo. It will be somehow more crispy in a way, but we're just overdoing it so we can see how it will look. If we decrease a texture all the way down to minus 100, as you can see, we're just losing pretty much all the details that we want to see so 0, 100. I mean, to be honest, nothing is going to look good when you overdo it, so I usually don't touch Texture, and I don't like to use it in my pictures, but it's a tool to have and you can use in some certain situation. Here we have Clarity almost same as Texture, but it has a different look. Clarity will add and boost again the contrast with it, so when you add more clarity here, when you overdo clarity, you can already tell that it will be eventually darker, and the brightness will be more bright as you can tell and almost the opposite when you bring down the clarity to minus 100. As you can see, it becomes very soft, which somehow annoying to see, to be honest. I usually like to go between around minus five to minus 10 to add some glowy look to my photos. I really like it. It's more like a dreamy look to get. Anyway, you get the point. Now, we have the Dehaze. Basically, in some certain situation, Dehaze works pretty well when you want to add a fog or you want to create some really dreamy look to your photos but also when you want to get rid of the haze. For example, if you have a misty photo, you can simply increase the haze, and you can easily get rid of the haze in your photos or mist. Last but not least, we're going to talk about Vibrance and Saturation. Now, there is a misconception that some people think that they are the same, but it's not true. Fundamentally, both work to increase and decrease the intensity of colors in an image, but Saturation simply increases the intensity of all colors simultaneously, where Vibrance increases the intensity of muted colors more so than already saturated colors while also working to protect the skin tones, which is really important. Let me give you a quick glimpse. As you can see, if we go up to 100 of the vibrance, let's go the same way as saturation, 100. As you can see, we are pretty much decreasing and increasing the overall intensity of the colors, so whether you have Vibrance at 100, Saturation is basically controlling overall colors in the image. I usually like to play with Vibrance when I want to add more vibrance to my skin tone. It's really a subtle add with vibrance. You can clearly get really nice look to your photo, but you can also decrease it in some case if you don't want that. Again, I barely use saturation because it somehow increases all the colors that boost all the colors in the image, but when you use Vibrance, it's the opposite where you can only apply the vibrance on the skin tone. 9. Tone Curves: In this video, we're going to talk about Tone Curve here. First of all, we need to understand what is Tone Curve in Lightroom. A Tone Curve is a diagonal line that represent the tonal range of an image. This line can be manipulated by dragging in certain areas to change the brightness and the contrast of your image in that particular tonal area. Now, when you download and install Lightroom, you probably have this section. This is more of a basic way to play with your tone curve, but the advanced way is to enable this point and start actually playing around. Let's disable once again and give you guys a little bit glimpse of what this box is all about. For example here, the bottom-left corner we have shadow from here until this point here. Then from here, we have darks. Then a little bit upper, we have lights, and then after that, we have highlights. This is highlight, this is shadow, this is mid-tone, which includes lights and darks. What you see behind that curve is the histogram that we have. It's the same shape as we have here. Now that we understood a little bit of the basics, let's enable the point again. I'll give you a glimpse of what Tone Curve is capable of doing when you have RGB channel selected. Now, we're going to come to red, green, blue channels later on. For example, if I want to brighten my mid-tone, all you have to do is just create a point here and drag it all the way up as much as you want if you want to brighten up, and the opposite way to darken your mid-tone. The same goes with shadow. Now, if you want to darken our shadow, we can bring it down as much as we want. If we want to add a fade to our shadow, we can go all the way up if we want. If you want to remove the point, double-click, and here you have it. Now, to understand Tone Curve a little bit more, let's do a little bit test here. I'm going to go all the way up from my shadow. That mean I'm basically giving 100 percent percentage all the way up that my shadow completely become almost pure white. The same goes to highlight. If we give all the way down, we have everything in black, so 100 percent it's pure black from highlight. Basically, understanding the Tone Curve is really important because it gives you an idea of what you're doing. If you just play around and not really understand how it works, it might give you a little bit hard time to actually achieve the look that you want. The most popular curve is the S curve, where you add a point in the shadow, one point in the mid-tone, and one point in the highlight. You create S curve like this. The reason that it's so popular because it's pop out the highlight a little bit, and it's also pop out the contrast in the shadow, for example, before and after, as you can see. Maybe the exposure a little bit too high so we're going to bring down the exposure and enable our S curve here. But again, you can be as much as creative. Usually, I add some fade on my shadow here, it create a really nice fade look on the shadows. I do the same thing for my highlight because I also don't like when the highlight is fully boosted with like blown away. It's a really nice way to give it a really nice and fade look to the whole photo. This is before, after, so far. Before, after, before, after. Now that we understood the RGB channel, let's jump to red. Why do we have red, green, blue channel? These are the primary color that creates the RGB channel itself. These are the colors if you mix them, it will become white, and white represents the whole picture. Anyway, these channels that are coming with red, green, blue. This is usually used to take out or add a certain color which is red. For example, if we want to add a red color to our shadow, all we have to do is to go all the way up, create a point, create point in the mid-tone so we don't affect the mid-tone and also the highlight. Now as you can see, we're adding more red tones in the shadow, as you can see. These are the shadow that we have. The opposite way, if we want to take out the red, the opposite of red is green. Now we have more green in the shadow, as you can see. Now, same goes almost to every other colors like blue and green. For example, let's go to green. What I usually do, I like to give it a feel me vibe. I add some green tone to my shadows here as you can see. It's like a fade green tone. It's really nice. This is before, after. As you can see, these are the shadows here, and you can see a slight green. If you want to take our green from the shadow, it will become almost a little bit red. It works the same way for mid-tone. Let's say if you want to add more green, bring it down. If we go back, the same thing goes for highlight here. Anyway, don't overdo it, try to be subtle with editing and know what you're doing. Know what you want to do. For example, I wanted to add some green to my shadow. All you have to do is just select that, and go a little bit up until you're happy with the result. That's why, again, it's really important to understand all of these because just playing around, you won't understand what's going on exactly and you might end up with really bad results. With blue, it's pretty much the same thing. If you want to add some blue tone to your photo. The opposite of blue is yellow. It's more like yellow, between yellow and green. Again, the purpose of this channel is to take out or take in the certain color or the opposite color of these certain color in your photo. Last but not least, I want to show you guys the curve targeted adjustment tool. With this tool, you can target any particular area by targeting their brightness or their darkness. Now, let's enable the toggle here we have. As you can see here, the mid-tone, and it shows you where the point is going to stop. It just monitor the brightness and the darkness of the picture. For example, here we have more darkness and it slowly goes to the shadow area. Here we have all the way brightness, like the highlighted part it's all the way pure white. It tells you and it monitors the brightness and the darkness of that picture. Whatever you toggle in your target, you can affect that particular area here. As you can see, for example, if you want to bring down the mid-tone all the way down to somewhere like here, and you want to make the highlight a little bit down too you can also do that. Maybe you want to add some shadows here, you can also do that. The more targets you do, the more points will be created on the Tone Curve, and it will be based on the brightness and the darkness of that particular area. 10. HSL: In this video, we're going to talk about HSL. Now first of all, what is HSL? HSL stands for hue, saturation, and luminance. One of the most overlooked tools in Lightroom is the HSL. It's also known as color adjustment window. If you're just beginning your journey into editing, you'll find that HSL is a very powerful color grading tool that targets particular colors and tones in the image. If you look here, this is the first section that has a slash that has two different name. For example, we have color and HSL, but basically, they are the same. This color section represent the colors differently. I personally use this more I think this is a bit complicated when it come to controlling your colors in the image. To begin with, I will start with HSL and I will explain what is going on here. Basically, these are all the primary colors here and you can change a hue and same goes for saturation and luminance. Basically, hue is where you can change the tone of a color. For example, we have a lot of green on this image. Let's change our green to more greenish by adding all the way to 100 and the opposite way we can change our green to more yellowish, so we're changing the tone of that specific color. You can also use the toggle here and it will automatically select the targeted color and you can slowly change the color by dragging up or down. Now we have saturation. You are probably familiar with this tool and what it does. Basically, it's boosting a particular color in your image, saturating or desaturating a specific color in your image. For example, we have a lot of green again. We can really pump the colors of the green up to 100 and we can do the opposite by desaturating the green. Now we basically took out all the green color out there and we have a little bit of yellow. Basically now the only remaining colors are the colors that are not green. Again, you can use the toggle to target each individual color to boost the saturation or desaturate them. Here we have Luminance this is the perfect tool to manipulate and control the brightness or darkness of each color. For example, if I want to toggle and target green color and I want to drag it down, it will eventually almost darken the green that we have. Same goes to the opposite of 100, let's say as you can see, slowly before and after it slowly add a very bright vibe to the green color. It goes to the same way for each color, individual color here. Basically luminance is the element that you can manipulate and control the brightness and darkness of each color in your picture. Now let's go to Color section. This section is exactly same as HSL, but this one is just more organized where you have a color label here. You can label by each color for example, you have green. It will only show you the green and here you can basically change any colors, but you don't have the toggle, you don't have the targeted color. Whenever you want to use that, you have to get back to HSL and use the targeted toggle here. Let's go back to color I really like this section because it give me the ability to be very accurate with my color in terms of saturation, luminance, and hue. It's nicely organized and right to the point. In my case, I think I will change my green a little bit to more greenish, decrease the saturation, add a little bit of luminance and here we have yellow. I want to add more of a warm tone to my yellow. Add a little bit boost of the colors, bring down the luminance or maybe add more luminous. Yeah, simply like that, I usually desaturate my blues because I don't like having blue in my photos mostly, especially when you have so much green, I don't think they match. But anyway is the matter of taste and the whole point is so you can understand how you can use this and having an idea and vision of what colors you want to achieve before starting your editing process. 11. Color Grading: In this video, we're going to talk about the color grading panel. The recently added color grading panel allows you to add colors to the shadows, mid-tones, and highlight. This can be very useful when you're trying to add some mood to your photos. From the Adjust section, you can choose to view all three. Just shadows, just mid-tones, just highlight, or the newest edition, global, which basically allows you to add a certain color to overall photo. Let's start from the shadows here. You can see if we select a color here, it will be applied to the darker parts of the photo, which are the shadows. As you can see, if we go all the way red, you can see the shadows part are turning to red. Here, we have the saturation slider as you can see. The more you add, the more saturated the selected color will be. It doesn't matter what color you select. The more you go with saturation, the more saturated it gets. Actually, let's go with blue color here. I really like this on my shadow. This for the sake of explaining, I'm not doing the proper color grading. Here we have another slider called luminance. Luminance slider allows you to adjust the brightness or the darkness of the color you selected it. Basically, as you can see, if we go down, our bluish in the shadow will become even darker. Please keep in mind to not overdo it. If you jump to mid-tones and highlight, it's pretty much the same process. Mid-tones are the tone between the highlight and the shadow. When you play around here and you add a color to a mid-tones, as you can see, it will apply eventually to an overall photo, to the shadows, and the highlight. I'm personally not a big fan of it because I usually use the shadows and highlight alone because that's how I create a contrast of colors between the highlight and shadow. Here we have in highlight very much again, same situation. I think I'm going to add some yellowish color here. As you can see, the more I go, the more saturated it becomes, highlights parts of the image. So this yellowish tone will be mostly affected on the brightest colors of our photo. For example, as you can see here, we already got the yellowish tone here. If you bring down the saturation, this is a normal color and this is what we get after all. Here we have two interesting slider, which is blending and balance. First, let's talk about the blending slider. Blending slider adjusts how blended in the color you selected will be. In our case, here in highlight, we have the yellowish tone. As you can see, the more I add, the more yellowish becomes, and the more blended it gets. If we drag it all the way to the left, then you will see more distinct colors. It's less saturated. It's less blended as a sound. Now, let's jump to the balance slider. The balance slider allows you to control which color of these colors you selected show more intensively, especially between the highlights and the shadows. Basically, we added blue to the shadow. We added yellow to the highlight, and this will create a competition slider, which one you want to show more, the highlights or the shadows? Simply, sliding over to the left increases the amount of shadows and makes the color you set for the shadow more prominent, which is in our case is blue, and sliding it to the right increases the amount of highlights and makes the highlight color more prominent, which is yellow. I think by now everything should be clear. It might be complicated in the beginning as you start using it; the more you use it, the more you get used to it. You understand better and you somehow find the right colors for your particular photo. 12. Split Tonning : Split toning is a quick and effective way to give a photo a more distinctive look. In this video, I will show you what split toning is, how it works, and how to easily add it to your image using Lightroom. If we put in practice and show you guys how it works exactly to understand split toning better. Here Here have a gradient photo from the bottom pure white to the top pure black. First thing first, you need to know that split toning will not be affecting the pure black and the pure white, only the highlight and the shadow. For example, if I want to add some, let's say, orange tone to the Saturation as you can see. It's more like red, here we have orange. As you can see, it's only applying on the highlighted part, not the pure white, and same goes to Shadow. For example, let's go with blue at the saturation here, as you can see, it's only applies to the shadow part not the pure black. Now that we understood the highlight and shadow, we have this section called Balance. If you go all the way to 100, you're telling it, hey, I want more of the highlights in the image, which is the highlight color here. The opposite way we will give it more blue, minus 100, hey, I want more of the shadows. Now let's print practice in an actual photo and see how it works. For example, let's do a quick adjustment here. I want to bring out some of the Highlight, add some Shadows, add a little bit of Contrast. Now let's say we're done with adjusting the basics. Let's come to split toning and I would like to add some of green tone to my Highlight here so we can slowly add it. Or we can just try and look for a good, I think I want to go with yellowish. As you can tell that it is only applying on the highlighted part, not the actual pure white, which is here. Same goes to Shadow, I usually add some cyan or blue shadows to my pictures so this is the outcome, before and after. Now I just did it as a test, you can do a better job, of course, and choosing a better photo for your split toning. I personally most of the time don't touch the shadows, I don't think it's needed. But again, it depends on your taste and what you're going for as long as you understand what you're doing, that what really matters. 13. Lens Correction: In this video, we're going to talk about lens correction. People tend to miss this section because it's just boring or the way it looks. They don't care, there's not much color going on here. Simply, when you take a photo, generally, you have some distortion that has been applied by your lens. You can easily fix that by checking Enable Profile Correction. As you can see, we had a little bit of vignette dark effect and a little bit of distortion on the picture, and it's gone right now. Light room is smart enough that it can detect which lens you took picture with. In some cases it might not work, so you need to do manually, you can choose whatever camera you have. Usually it does not work when you have an adapter on your lens, let's say you're using Sony, but you're using Canon lenses with an adapter. It might not show up at that case so you have to do it manually. It's not that hard. You just decrease the vignette here by adding more vignette. You can add more distortion here, as you can see, but automatically it will fix it for us. Here we have another check which called Remove Chromatic Aberration. Sometimes if you notice that some of your photos when there's so much highlight going on, and I'm happy that I don't have it here. But at some point you have some weird color on the edge of the line of the contrast that you have. When you check that, it's like a magenta color, it will automatically disappear by checking Remove Chromatic Aberration, I've seen it a lot. It happened to a lot of photographers. A lot of cameras react weirdly when it's come to a lot of sun or back-light in the picture, but I'm using Sony A7 3, so that's probably why. This is all you need to know in this section and profile section. Now we have manual section where you can basically fix your distortion if you don't like it. You can add way more distortion to your image. At some point, you don't really need them much. You can also crop it right away automatically so you don't have to crop again and again. You need to enable Constraint Crop. Basically, if you're not satisfied with checking these automatic section, you can just come here and do it manually. Again, this is here to remove the chromatic aberration. You can basically target the color, zoom in and target that weird color on the line of your contrast, the edges, and it will automatically be removed. Unfortunately, I don't have any pictures, but you can definitely try it on some of your pictures if you already have chromatic aberration that has been applied on some of your pictures. Last but not least, we have Vignette. You can add an amount of vignette here, which will darken the distortion side which we have, and you can also play around with midpoint if you want to make the vignette effect less. Again, you can play around, you can do it manually. I usually check these two buttons because I don't really need to fix much in my pictures, but it depends on your taste and what you're going for. 14. Details: In this video, we're going to talk about Details. Now, detail is primarily used to sharpen your image and also to remove the noise if you need to. First of all, let's talk about the section that we have in sharpening. Let's zoom in so we can see clearly what's going on here. So first thing first we have the amount of the sharpening, so basically this is exactly what it sounds to actually sharpen the whole image. Now, most people get confused about the radius. If you ask, what is the radius here? Why we have this section? If you can see, if we can even zoom in a little bit more, the radius will increase the amount of sharpening on the edge of the contrast. For example, we have the blurry background and we have our in-focus subject. This will only apply the sharpening on the edges between the contrast of each edge between the blurry background and the invoke subjects. Then we have the amount of detail, this is exactly as it sounds. Again, the more you add, the more detail and the more information you add, and you apply to your image. Last but not least, we have one of the most important element in Details section which called masking. Basically, if you play around, you won't see much, you don't see what's going on. But if you hold option and play, this will show you the mask of the black and white of what's going on in the background. When you leave masking at zero here, you are telling Lightroom to apply the sharpening to all of your image. Whatever you did here on the amount, radius, and detail to apply it on the whole image. But when you add a mask, let's go ahead, hold Option again. If you are using Windows, you probably going to have to hold Alt key on a keyboard. You slightly telling Lightroom that I don't want the black areas to be affected or with sharpening. This is a really nice tool. Sometimes you don't need to sharpen the whole image because it looks really weird to somehow sharpen the whole image and it's obvious. To really make your sharpening to stand out, you need to apply masking to know exactly where it's been affected. I just love this tool, it helped me in many ways and I believe it will help you too. Now let's get to noise reduction. This is usually used when you have a nice picture and you have a lot of noise in the image. Let's get close here, you probably have a lot of noise here, or you probably boosted up the ISO and had a lot of noise in the image this usually really helps to reduce the noise. As you can probably tell, it's not that obvious, but it somehow does help before, after, it's a slight change as you can see on the face. This is probably a lot of noise reduction here. I usually go around between 20-30 if I have a lot of noise in my image and it does a really great job and I usually don't add detail a lot. This is the contrast between the edges of your depth and field and the blurry background and the in-focus subject. 15. Transform Panel: In this video, I'm going to talk about the Transform Panel. Simply we can put it this way, the transform tool helps you to fix or adjust any perspective of the photo or straighten the lines. In the beginning years when I started learning Lightroom, I didn't care much about this tool, but it is really important when it come to composition. This tool can be especially useful in urban or architecture photography in which you can make the buildings in the photos straight. The panel gives you several options and I will walk you through them quickly first, then I'll explain the ones that are the most important and should pay attention to. First, let's start with the slider. Vertical slider will allow you for a vertical perspective adjustment that if you increase it, the photo as you can see, will lay back. But if you go to the other way, the photo will be tilted towards you. This is what it does basically. Here you have horizontal slider where it allows you to tilt your photo left or right as you can see. Rotate slider is self explanatory, it will basically rotate your photo as you can see. Aspects slider basically squeezes the photo, if we increase it, let's say, it will squeeze the photo vertically. If we decrease it, it will squeeze the photo horizontally depending on what you like, sometimes it can be actually really useful. Then we have Scale. Scale is basically zoom-in-zoom-out. The more you zoom in, the more you increase it, the more you zoom out, the more you decrease it. X and Y offset is basically for moving the photo. X offset represent the right and left, and Y offset represent up and down. As for the button above here we have Auto. Auto applies a balanced set of perspective correction. You're basically telling the Lightroom to do the job for you, and if you don't like it, you can just turn it off. Here we have Levels which applies perspective correction to ensure that the image is leveled. Here we have Vertical, which applies level and vertical perspective. This is actually a very useful tool when it come to architecture and urban photography. It's an automatic way to level up your photos and straighten the lines in the frame. Here we have Full, where you're basically telling Lightroom that you want to apply the level, vertical and horizontal perspective correction. Sometimes it can just ruin the photo like this one, as you can see, so it's better to do it manually. Now, the manual option is guided, as you can see here. Basically, you want to straighten these lines of this building here. What you can do is, you can select and drag unto the bottom of the building. Same for this, and you have a zoom preview, it's very nice, and boom. As you can see, this gives you a much better perspective. Then you can simply either crop it or take it to Photoshop, fill it up, you're free what to do. Or you can simply come back and press "Constrain Crop." In most cases, it wouldn't work perfectly. But in case if you don't want to do it manually, I would pretty much suggests you to just crop the picture, and if you want to keep the same ratio, you can just go to Photoshop and fill it up. In my case, I'm going to go one by one the Instagram size, and here we have the photo. This is before, after, before, after. 16. Effect Panel: In this video, I will be talking about vignetting and grain. So adding vignette to a photo means to add edges that fade to black or white gradually. Vignette is commonly used to draw in more attention to details or the subject within an image, especially when taking a portrait. Vignette also enhances the sentimental feelings and evokes nostalgia, allowing you to achieve a vintage look to add drama to your photos. Now, I personally don't use it much myself, but it could be an option for you. Lightroom gives you several options and slider to artistically control the vignette that you apply. So let's get to it. There are three styles. The first one is Highlight Priority, works the best for images that have a lot of highlights at the edges. Here we have Color Priority, which is good for images with darker colors at the edges. For example, this one. Then we have Paint Overlay, where you can add vignette to the old way as a paint. We can see the different between each of them. As you can see, now we have more darkness. So for this particular photo, Color Priority will be the best option because the vignette, there's already a lot of darkness around the edges, so the vignette will not be harsh on the photo itself. It is important to know what style you go for before you start adjusting the rest. Now, let me show you the slider. Here is the amount of vignette that you will add to your photo. The more you go down, the darker it will be. The more you go up, the wider the edges will be. Simple as that. In my case, I personally wouldn't touch anything, but I'm going to go all the way down to show you what other sliders can do. Basically, sliding the midpoint slider to the left will basically bring or pull the vignette all the way into the center, and increasing the midpoint will do the opposite as you can see. Here we have the roundness slider, which controls the shape of the added vignette. Decreasing it will make the shape rectangular and sliding it to other way will make the vignette more round. The feather slider is all about the edges. It basically control how soft or how hard the edges will be. Increasing feathering will make the edges softer, as you can see in the screen, and decreasing it will make the edges harder. You can actually use this for artistic purposes something like this you can easily create. This is nice. Again, depending on for what you're going to use vignette, you can really take advantage of it. Last but not least, we have highlight. I didn't mention it. The highlight slider basically preserve the highlights where the vignette is applied. For example, as you can see, we have some vignette that covers this light over here. So this is considered to be a highlight for sure because it's bright enough to be preserved by this highlight slider. As you can see, the more we add, the more we preserve and we bring back the details on the highlight. Nevertheless, it's a pretty cool option to have. Now I'm going to reset the vignette and then I'm going to jump to grain. Grain is basically I would say one of my favorite tools when it come to Lightroom. I really like to add grain to my photo. It stylize the photo and gives it a very vintage look. It works especially well with the black and white photos. Here we have three slides, basically, the amount of grain as it sound is just the more you add, the more grain you will have on the photo as you can see. Then we have the size slider or is about the physical size of the grain. If you increase it, as you can see, the grain will be bigger. Finally, we have the roughness. The roughness slider adjust the occurrences of the grain. So you can make the grain finer and rounder by sliding it like, let's say to the left. As you can see, it's way less. Sliding it all the way right right as you can see, the grain will become more course. I would suggest that you don't overdo it. I usually keep my grain amount around 30-50. Usually, to add a little bit of the size and the roundness, I keep it in the middle. As you can see, if you zoom in, the grain is not overdone. It's just about the right amount to add to a photo, but also, it depends on what look you want to go for. 17. Calibration: In this video, I'm going to talk about calibration panel. Now to give you a bit of clarity, you might actually find this panel very, very confusing. The definition of calibration is very simple. It's just allowing you to adjust colors. However, you should bear one important thing in mind. Adjusting this slider within the panel will affect all the colors of the image. For example in HSL, you can specify each individual color and basically control based on the color cell. So if it's blue here, you can change the blue only. You can even toggle here as I mentioned in the HSL video and you can change the color, but in calibration is a different story. For example, here if we change the hue, all the colors in the photo will be effected unlike HSL, and that's because calibration target the pixel of the image, and all the colors or pixels are made from red, green, and blue, RGB basically, and that's in variant proportion. The first slider here as you can see, this is tint. This will allow you to tend to your shadows. As you can see it's written, so you can either go to magenta kind of look or green. Then here we have red primary, green primary, and blue primary, and you can adjust your colors with two primary sliders which are hue and saturation. The hue slider will allow you to change the color for example making red primary more yellowish as you can see here, or even taking the blue primary hue to all the way more of a cyan and reddish look. Basically, you just have to play around. There is no magical way to adjust these colors. You just have to play around and see what are the best adjustment for you. Here we have saturation slider basically as a sound. It will allow you to control how vibrant or intense the corresponding color that is showing in your photo. As you can see I think in this photo I'm going to go a little bit with blue primary. I'm going to bring it down and add more saturation. I think I'm going to go with a bit of this, bring back the hue a little bit, and pretty much that's it. We can play with green, but I don't think it's ideal for this photo, so before, after, before, after. 18. Crop Tool: In this video, we're going to talk about the crop tool. Now, crop tool is a very useful feature in Lightroom and there is more to it than you might actually think. Before diving into the panel itself, let's talk about the overlay here. As you can see, we have the rule of third overlay and you can easily change these overlays depending on what kind of composition you want by hitting "O" on your keyboard. Whether you're using MacBook or Windows version, you can always change these overlays depending on what kind of composition you want. There's even golden ratio, it's a very popular composition. This is very useful when it's come to cropping your image because you can right away see your composition using these overlays. Now let's come to the actual cropping. Now, I'm going to get back to the rule of third here. Here you can crop according to the original aspect ratio or you can choose a different one. For example, I can go by four-by-three, if I want to or most cases, I usually use one-by-one for Instagram, or four-by-four gives you the highest quality when you pose for Instagram pictures. Again, depending on what ratio you want, you can always change it to the proper ratio. Now let's get back to original. Here next to the original there is a locker icon where you can lock your ratio or unlock it in your case. When you unlock it, you have the freedom of any ratio you want. For example, if you lock it again, you are stuck with one ratio, and it works for almost every aspect ratio that you choose so all you need to do is to unlock it, and then you can freely change the aspect ratio. Anyway, let's get back to the original right now. Now, let's get to the slider. The slider allows you to change the angle of the image. This could be very useful for straightening your images or even using it for artistic purposes. Also, Lightroom can do it automatically if you click here on "Auto." As you can see here we have a more slight straighten image. You can also use this icon; when you click on this icon, you can basically drag depending on the line of your image. For example, in my case, I will drag a line from here and I want to straighten my image depending on that line and it will straighten that line for you or any line in your image and this creates a very nice symmetry for your composition. In my opinion, this is the best way to straighten your image. It's also important that you can always reset your adjustment that you've done with the crop tool by clicking on "Reset" so whatever you've done, it will be gone. But in my case, I'm going to go with this. Here we have before, after. 19. Red Eye Correction: As you might probably predict on the screen, in this video, I'm going to talk about the red eye correction tool. This tool is the same as it sound. It's for correcting the reddish color you get usually from mostly flash photography. We have two options here. We have red eye, pet eye. You can use both in a similar way. First, you go to the center of the eye and make sure the selection includes the whole eye and not only the red part, you click on it, and boom, it's fixed. In most cases, you get a really good result and we're going to do the same thing here. But let's say if you want to darken the circle in the eye, you can do that. If the pupil size is not correctly chosen, you can also adjust that. You can do the adjustment, that's a cool thing about it, depending on what kind of look you want to go for. So this is pretty much it is. It's simple, and you can do the same thing for your pet photos. I personally don't have any pet photos, but you get the point. 20. Spot Removal Tool: In this video, we're going to talk about Spot Removal tool. Now this tool is not efficient as if you use it in Photoshop, but it comes really handy when you want to remove small, unwanted things from your photos. Especially good for removing blemishes and spots from faces or removing small things in the background. Once you click on this tool, you get a brush with which you can paint over things you want to remove. For example, let's say we want to remove these blemishes here. As you can see, Lightroom will automatically select a surrounding area to copy from and try to remove what you selected. You can change that by dragging the circle somewhere else. For example, if you think Lightroom did a terrible job at copying and removing the thing that you wanted to remove, you can just move it around depending on what you wanted. Now here there are two modes that you can use. We have clone and then we have heal. The difference is, clone removes what's selected by copying the exact pixel from somewhere else in the image. Heal in the other hand, removes what is selected by trying to blend those source pixel. Neither of those is better than the other because it's honestly depends on what you're dealing with. I suggest experimenting with both to get the result you like. Let's talk about this slider here. As you can see from the name itself, this is the size of the brush, you can basically take the size of this brush bigger or smaller by decreasing or increasing it. An alternative easier way to do this is by putting your two fingers on your track bag and dragging up and down. As you can see here, it's very easy and it's even faster than it's supposed to be. Here we have the feather slider which is all about the edges of the selected area, where you can make them softer by increasing it, or make them harder by decreasing it as you can see. If I go with let's say zero feather size, again see here, there is no feather at all, but when we go all the way up, we have some feather on the edges. Using feather we will get a softer result. I personally don't suggest you to go all the way up between 20-40 will be good most of the time, but it also depends on the situation. Now here we have the opacity slider, which allows you to decrease or increase the applied healing or cloning. Now this can be really useful to decrease the intensity of the effect if you feel like it's too much. One last thing I want to tell you, sometimes you do a lot of cloning and healing, it becomes a really annoying when you want to add more cloning tools or healing tools, so you can easily hide these circles by changing the tool overlay here to never. As you can see, it will be disappeared. Now you can continue your process of cloning or healing. 21. Selective Edit: In this video, I will show you the three tools that are used for making selective edits within the Lightroom. For you to edit a certain part of your image selected by you, where you can adjust the light, color, effects, details, and optics of that selected part, you can use few selection method, and they are the brush selection, radial selection, and then we have gradient selection. This is probably my favorite, but we will get there. Let's start with the brush selection. The brush selection basically allows you to pain or brush over a part of your photo where you want to apply the adjustment. For example, I want to add some light to the face. I can just brush and paint over, and we'll add exposure. This is pretty much an example. You can do way more with the adjustment brush, but in general, this is how it works. You can pretty much adjust all these adjustment that we have. You can change the temperature. You can even change the hue color. This used to not be there, but it's added to the latest Lightroom update, where you can actually change the tint of that selected part you selected. It's a pretty cool tool when you actually need it. Here when you scroll down a bit, you have brush size, feather, flow. Basically, this is as a sound, you can change the size of the brush, and then you have the feather, where you can make the edges softer or harder. Here we have the flow, where basically it controls the rate at which adjustment is applied. The lower the flow is, the more you need to brush to achieve the full effect. In most cases, I don't use it, but sometimes you can take advantage from this tool. Let's say you did a selection here, and there's some part that you don't want to select anymore, or you want to erase that. Here we have simply the Erase tool, where you can just paint the part that you don't want to be selected. We can get back here. Here we have Auto Mask option. This is a very useful tool. When you start, let's say, painting a brush, it will select the particular color or exposure. This is a less advanced tools for selection if we compare the selection tools on Photoshop. I use it often to add selective brightness over the model phase. For example, in this situation, it could be really helpful. We have Auto Mask checked, and I just want to bright up the highlight of her face. This is a really, really useful. As you can see, I even painted over the darkness areas, but it did not affect it fully because we're only selecting the fully brighter areas, as you can see. With Auto Mask on, it can save a lot of time, and sometimes it's very necessary to use to not get out from the lines. Now you can easily adjust this exposure or do pretty much anything. Change the tint. Do some skin color correction. You can do so much with adjustment brush. It's a tool that I often use, and it's very, very helpful. Let's jump to the radial selection, which allows you to apply the adjustment to an elliptical selected mask. For example, I'm going to create a mask, where let's say I want to add more brightness, even though it's not necessary to add more brightness here. Here make sure to invert, so the adjustment is applied inside the circle. If you want to apply outside the circle, simply uncheck the invert. But let's say I want to add more brightness, and you can simply do that by adding more exposure. The shape can be easily changed in a circle way, which I really like, but sometimes it's really helpful when you want to add more lightness to sunlight or a backlight behind your subject. It depends on how you're going to use it, but it's really helpful, and it's all about the situation you're dealing with. Not to forget, here we have feather, which is pretty much the same tool that you can use, an adjustment brush where you can soften the edges of the applied radial selection. Now last but not least, let's jump to gradient filter. This is my favorite, my all time favorite. I pretty much use this tool in all of my photo, and I usually use for one purpose, to add a darken vignette for the bottom of my images. You can simply do that by bringing down the exposure. It's create a tension from the bottom to the center of the image width, where it creates some, like the attention of the eyes goes directly to the most important part of the image, which is the modal face. I really take advantage from this tool when it comes to bringing the attention to one particular area and darkening the rest of the image. I really love it where you can basically apply adjustment gradually across a region of a photo. You can make the region as wide as you can or as narrow as you possibly can. It depends on what you're going for. Also, you can apply more than one mask in selective edits. For all of these, you can create hundred of selected mask, and this is what great about. There is no limitation when it's come to creating this mask in selective edit. Here if we go to history, I will show you the before and after, and the effect that we applied so far, just by using the selective tool. As you can see, this is the before. This is the after. Pretty good. Just by adding some selective tools, having the mindset of why you want to do it, because that's really important, and finally, getting the result that you want. 22. Range Mask: In this video, I'm going to talk about the range mask. Now if you're wondering what is the range mask, in the previous video we talked about the three method for selective editing, which is the adjustment brush, the radial, and the graduated filter. All of these selective edit comes with a section called range mask. For example, let's apply a graduated filter here. As you can see, I'm going to bring down the exposure. Let's say I want to add more vignette to the top corner of my image, as you can see. Here if I bring down my exposure all the way down, as you can see the more we bring down the exposure or the more we do a harsh adjustment, the selective becomes very harsh and rough. If you go to the range here, if you enable, you have two options, you have color and luminance. First, let's talk about the color option. When you enable color, you have this selector where you can select any particular color in your area and that particular adjustment that you did in the graduated filter will be only applied to that area. For example here, as you can see, the moment we apply to this particular area which has more of a dark color, we have the adjustment removed from the building because it's a complete different color. You will be simply able to select any area or a point, and the mask will match up to the color you selected. You can also select more than one point by holding "Shift". As you can see, you can add two more points, or even three if you want and that way you're expanding your mask to the extra colors. Now here you have the amount slider. This is basically the amount control of the applied adjustment using the slider as you can see. The more I add, the more I tell Lightroom, hey, I want more of this effect to be applied on the selected area. The more I go left it becomes more specific with the color you selected. Now the second method is the luminance range mask. Now basically what you can do here, you can select a tonal range to which the mask will be applied. The one on the right is basically for the bright areas and if you want to bring it to the left, you're basically telling Lightroom that anything brighter than that point should not be selected. The more you go, the more it disappears. The one in the left is basically for darker areas that anything to the left of it or below it should not be selected. You can also select wide area by clicking and dragging, and if you feel like that the mask still needs some work you can play around with the smoothness slider to get the result that you like. Now in my case, I want to slide my right to the left a little bit and if you feel like that the mask still needs some work you can play around with the smoothness slider to get the result you like. 23. ShortCuts: In this video, I will show you some of the most common shortcuts that I use every time I'm editing on Lightroom. Let's get started. The first shortcut is to enter library grid view by hitting G on your keyboard. As you can see, it jumps right to your library. The second is pick and reject by hitting P or X on your keyboard. Here's P, pick as a flag and X as rejected. This will allow you to flag your photos that you have picked to edit or rejected and want to delete. Once you've chosen the photos you want to import and edit, you can simply press D on your keyboard and that will take you to the develop modal where you can start editing the photos. To show that clipped areas on your photo, you can hit J. This is very beneficial when you're using histogram and you want to track your exposure by bringing down the exposure and bringing it up, and that will show you if it's overexposed or not. Now, let's talk about the tools. You can toggle the cropping tool just by hitting R and directly you will go to the cropping tool. Q if you want to toggle the Spot Removal tool. For the graduated filter, you can simply hit M on your keyboard. For the radial filter, you have to hold Shift and then press M. Last but not least, for the adjustment brush, you can simply hit K. If you make a selection with the selective edit tools, you can see your selection by hitting O. For example, let's add some brightness on her jacket. I'm going to add a little bit of exposure and then press O. You can see the red zone areas are your selection. Basically this is where you selected. You can simply copy the setting of one photo by hitting Command+Shift+C on your keyboard. In your case, if you're using Windows, you just have to replace Command with Control. Basically, here you have and you can just copy the setting. To paste them onto another photo, you can press Command+Shift+V this time and boom, here we go. If you want to show the before and after of your photo, you hit the backslash key. To cycle through the light out mode, you can simply press L. If you want to make it even darker, you can press double L and here you have the fully darkness around your photo where you can see all the details without getting distracted by what is surrounded. Finally, to see all the list of your shortcuts, you can simply press Command or Control with the slash key. 24. What Are Presets: In this video, I'm going to talk about Preset. Now, this video is going to be more like an introduction about what are presets, how you can use them, and basically, even how you can make profit out of it. First off, let's think of it this way. To make it easier for you, I'll basically, by the way, this is a preset section here. As you can see, I have imported all of my presets. By default, when you download Lightroom, you have bunch of default preset which are color creative and then black and white. Anyway, guys, so to understand better and to make it easier on you, you can simply think of preset as advanced Instagram filters. They are incredibly useful when it come to achieving a certain style consistently, and that can save you a lot of time. You simply choose a preset and predetermined adjustment will instantly be applied to your photo. For example, here we have KF 2 Warm from my coda film. This is one-click and this is before, after. Before, after. Now you should also bear in mind that with one click, you won't always get the perfect result that you've been looking for. But the great thing about this preset and the fact that you can actually make some adjustment even after the adjustment were applied. So for this one, I will probably add more contrast and bring down a little bit of shadow and bring a little bit of exposure, and I think maybe even bring out a little bit of the temperature. This is before, after, before, after. As I mentioned earlier, you cannot get a great result by just clicking on a certain preset that you have. So I think of these preset as a starting point for my photo editing. This is because different photos are taken in different environment. So for example, if I copy this adjustment here, copy all these adjustments, and then go to another photo that is a bit different, for example, here, this one, and then click Previous or even Paste, as you can see, this is the same preset that worked for this photo. But obviously, it didn't work for this one. As you can see, this one. That is simply because these two photos are taken in different environment and conditions like the lighting is different. So this predetermined adjustment won't give you the same result right away. So to make this better, you can just add more exposure, add more shadow may be, and bring down the level of the contrast and much better. Before, after. Before, after. So I hope it's clear. You get my point. You should really know this about preset because there's so many people when they start learning about preset and they start using, and they get disappointed because they don't get the same result as it was shown in other videos, or their photographers, they used it. Let's be honest, if you have a good photo, there is a high chance that pretty much most of the preset will look good on that photo. So generally speaking, presets have become increasingly popular in the recent year. Nowadays, the market has a lot of preset packs which are free or on sale. In fact, your favorite photographer probably has one. I hope it's me. Anyway, I'm kidding, No. In addition to that, if you're good enough, you can actually create your own presets and make good profit out of them. That, I will explain in the next video. 25. How to Create a Preset: In this video, I will show you how you can create your own preset in Lightroom. I want to save this look and apply on other photos. To do that, you can either go and copy the adjustment and paste on the other photos, but the best way to do is to just create a preset for it. Every time you want to get this look again, you just go to one of these sections and you apply the look. To do that, first of all, you need to go all the way up, and here we have a plus icon, and then here you have "Create Presets". Keep in mind that you should already have all your adjustments ready and then click on "Create Preset". Here you have the preset name, you can basically name your preset anything. Here you have groups. Groups are just like colors here and creative. You create packs to separate your preset from another group and to find them easily. Here we have rename, I'm just going to write down Kodak for no reason. Here I'm going to create a new group, and I'm going to rename this group Kodak. I can just put K1-Kodak Preset Pack, something like that. Then you can create, and here you created a new group, a new pack, and the name of the preset will be Kodak. You might be wondering, what are these settings? Basically, this is where you determined which adjustment, which section that you want to apply to this look. For example, if you want everything to be determined as these adjustments, but for some reason, let's say you don't want the color grading or graduated filters to be applied on this look. You can easily do that by unchecking the setting or anything. But I personally usually check all of them. Sometimes I just uncheck the grain because I don't want grain to be applied to all of my preset. You can do that. Then just create. Click on "Create" and you should have a pack ready with name K1-Kodak, here as you can see, and the Kodak preset is installed there. It can also easily export it by "Show in Finder", and here you have the Kodak XMP, the preset that we created. You can easily sell this preset and import it whenever you need to. Let's get back to another photo. Let's go to another photo and just apply this look here. Let's get back to this photo, and now we have the preset. All we have to do is just click on it. As you can see, it comes with a grain and everything. All I have to do is just do some adjustment, add more shadows, bring down highlight, and boom. Basically, before, after, before, after. That's how you create a preset. If you want to import a certain preset, all you have to do is just go to here, the plus icon, and import presets. For example, here we have K1-Black Preset Pack. You can select all of them and import. But also make sure before you do that to create a pack, to create a group so you can easily separate them from other presets. That's all you need to know basically how to import and even create your own preset. The next video I will show you how to make profit out of these preset and how to sell them in the most efficient way. 26. How and Where to Sell Presets: We've already talked about the many advantage that preset have and what makes them really popular among photographers. Now let's talk about how and where you can actually sell your presets. Now, selling presets can be fairly profitable. In fact, at one point, it was how I mainly made a living. If you have an inspiring style with a creative flair that you've shared, then most probably, there are people out there who like that and follow you or even wish to learn from you. That way, you can take advantage of this by creating your own preset and putting them up for sale. Here are some tips that will help you to get started. First of all, you have to have your own unique style and that will set you apart from the rest. Pay attention to the things you like. Your style will emerge from the subject that you photograph obviously and from how you work. After that, take a look at your work and determine what is the general feel. For example, is it moody, is it contrasty, is it bright, and etc. Second, choose a specific specialty as that will be better when you start selling. For example, if you're into landscape photography, your preset would be tailored to making the colors in nature pop. For example, brighten or make landscape to have a specific mood or feel that will enhance the photo. For example, this is my website where I sell my presets, overlays, and lots. Basically, as you can see, the design is very important. You have to have a theme color, the color scheme, the small detail that pushed a website to stand out a bit more. For example, here we have Blade Runner Preset Pack as you can see if you go in. You'll also need to have a beautiful preview. This is before and after, as you can see, it has to be organized. Usually, I add discount. Also here, a preview video. I usually review the preset how it looks like, so it doesn't look scummy at all. There are more sample that I can show you. For example, here I have the whole shop bundle where I basically explained what is included, and here's a preview, for example, if we play. I'm not going to play the sound because I might get copyrighted here, but as you can see, it's a very short, brief overview of all the preset that you will get in this bundle. You really have to take your time to create something catchy to create a nice promo for it, so your audience will be aware of what they are getting. Anyway, beside all of this, now, you might already know there are many website on which you can actually put up your presets for sale. But my all-time favorite would be Sellfy, where I also have a shop. Sellfy literally changed my whole life. I started off with selling digital asset here. Back in 2016 when I started, it was only digital assets, so it was fitable for creating preset and selling digital assets. Now they have even included the merchandise where you can actually sell physical products, so it's really cool. You can also try using the code K1 Shaaban 4. You can try their 14-day free trial service. You can actually cancel anytime if you don't like it. The next website, we have some alternative options here. You've probably seen this one, Creative Market. Now if you go to preset, the cool thing about this website, when it come to Sellfy, you have to promote it. You probably have to pay for Facebook or even social media to target your audience for them to buy. But in Creative Market, it is more like a public store where everyone can see your product and they could buy it right away. That only downside is like they will probably take half of the money, which is a big downside, but also, you don't have to do any promotions on Creative Market. You just have to create constantly and even try to put some of your products on for free so you can get recognized on Creative Market. Same goes to Etsy. If you go search here, preset, there are 52,000 result. Wow, that's crazy. As you can see, these are all different type of presets, and here, we have also Envato, I think it's Envato element, let's write preset. It's Envato element. As you can see, there are bunch of preset packs here too, so you can also include your preset here. Obviously, I think for Creative Market and Envato, you have to submit and they have to approve before you can upload. But with Sellfy, you can upload anything within minutes, so you have the freedom of choice, Basically, that's it. I hope you get a clear idea and obviously, there are tons of website that you can actually use for this purpose, but these are the main one that I know about. But yeah, I hope you'll learn something from this video. 27. Edit with me: All right guys, so we're pretty much done with this master class. This is the last video and I will show you pretty much all the tools. It's like an overview of all the tools that we've showed and discovered. As you can see on the screen, we have bunch of photos and I'm going to be editing one of them, which is this one here. Then we can also try the same method and copy-paste the looks on the rest of the photo. That way we can create a very cohesive style. Especially if you want to post for your Instagram or for your website to have a very consistent style. The first thing we have to notice is the white balance here. As you can see, we have basic adjustment and here we have white balance. To correct the white balance, you can either go to this bigger target with a natural, you're going to pick a color that is close to pure white, and the closest color to pure white is her blouse, I think, and boom. As you see the white balance is corrected. Now, this color is more white. The reason we are correcting the white balance, the whole point of the white balance is to correct the white color in your photo. So far before and after I really like it after the white balance correction and then we're going to scroll down a bit and I'm just going to play around with this basic adjustment. I'm going to add some maybe shadow here, bring down some highlight, add some white. We can create some contrast and depth to the photo and bring down some of the blacks, so before, after, before, after. Really like it. Here we have clarity. I'm going to bring down some of the clarity so I can add some softness look to the photo overall. After that, I want to go to Vibrance and take off vibrance a bit around minus 20, because later on, I will add more color with HSL. Here if we scroll down, we have tone curve, and this is my favorite part. As usual, I start with creating three points, but make sure you are actually in your RGB channel. The first one, I'm going to start with doing the S looking curve. I'm going to make another point here, so I'm just going to add some fade to the photo here. Sorry, about that going to add some fade. You have to be very precise with adjusting this point because it could easily affect the whole photo in a massive way. Maybe I'm just also bring down some of the highlights so we can have some fade on the highlight. So far I'm really liking the look I'm getting. Then after that, I going to go to red channel and I'm going to do the same process, create three point. This is the trick that I usually do for my photos to really add some depth to the colors of the photo. You have to be really careful with this. Then we have same process will go with the green channel. Now they might not all look the same. Yes, looking curve. It depends on what colors you want the most. I'm going to go with somewhere here. I'm going to go with blue channel here, do the same process, pretty much, a slight S looking curve. So far before, after, before, after, a huge, huge jump from the previous look to this one. Now I'm going to get back to the main RGB channel with tone curve, I'm going to add a little bit of mid-tone. I'm going to bring down the highlight here to add more fade to the highlight, and maybe even add more fade to the shadows here. You can see, yes. So before, after so far. I'm going to bring down the vibrance even a bit more, even more and we can just go ahead and play with it yourself right now. Now I've mentioned many times that there is no magical way, there are no particular way to adjust these. You just have to play with it depending on what do you want. In my case, I think I'm going to just take down some of the yellow from hue towards orange and maybe add more greenish. But we don't have any green so there is no point. As you can see, it won't affect our photo. What we have is mostly magenta, blue. Maybe we can play with the purple. Maybe I can add more reddish tones to the purple and then we have also magenta. I'm going to add more reddish tones here. Then we have blue. I'm just going to towards to more a bit of the cyan blue, a very kind of between the green and bluish tone. I really like it, but so far before and after. I really love the contrast between these two colors. It's a very good complementary colors. Good combination of two different colors. But yeah, I think I'm pretty much done with hue. Now I'm going to get to saturation. Saturation, I feel like it's saturated overall. I'm just going to bring down the overall colors here around minus 10 and just see what will look the best. I'm going to need aqua, then we have blue, minus 4 and the same goes to purple and magenta. Not too much. So far before and after, and my laptop is about to die anyway. Now we have luminance. Luminance is basically controlling the brightness and darkness of each individual color in the photo. For this one, we don't have to do much. I'm just going to bring down some of the brightness on the red one, red color, then maybe even bring down a bit of orange, maybe a little bit of yellow too. We don't use green because we don't need it. Maybe bring down a little bit of aqua here also blue, so overall bring down all the over-exposed colors. Pretty much like this before, after. I think we're done with that HSL. If we look to overall color, as you can see, we created the contrast between two colors, which is the magenta and the blue over here and that's really powerful, played a very nice complementary colors in your photo. It's really attractive to the eyes, is very pleasing. The visuals are amazing overall. As I said, we're done with the HSL now, we're going to scroll down a bit and here we have color grading. I don't think I'm going to play with it right now. I don't need to play with it. But I'm going to jump right ahead to calibration. With calibration, I want to play with red primary, mostly. With calibration, I want to play with these primary colors, the RGB ones, and sometimes, I don't know, sometimes they are terrible, but there are also time that they actually work very well. Let's just try maybe add some hue to the red primary, maybe even boost the color here. Not that bad actually, I like it. Here we have green primary. As you can see, it goes towards a bit. But I think I'm going to bring down the saturation around 50, I think 50 is nice. Then I'm going to bring this down, just see see how it looks like. Actually, I like it this way. Then maybe I can even add more saturation. Yeah. This is before calibration, this is after. The slight change, we added a skin tone to her face. I really like it. All right. I believe I'm pretty much done with all these panels. Later on, I'm going to get back to effect, details, and also color grading. But right now I need to do some adjustment on her face. First of all, we will go to adjustment brush. One of the most important object when it comes to fashion photography or portrait photography is the eye. I'm just going to zoom in a bit. So I'm just going to zoom in here and do some magic work by adding more exposure, bringing down the saturation. First of all, I just want to brighten up the side, the white side here. Make sure you've checked the auto mask, this is really important. Let's go ahead, start it from the beginning. Pretty much like this and like that. Then I'll bring down the saturation. So far great. Then same goes to the left eye. That's right. If you look at it from here, it's left, but that's right. Yeah, I actually like it. Okay. Now we're going to create a new brush and then we're going to brighten up and pop out the eye lines here. This time I'm not going to desaturate, I'm just going to add more exposure and maybe even a bit of contrast. But mostly exposure would be good. All right. Actually I'm going to the feather and make it 100. We have a very subtle and soft edges. Then we'll go to do the same thing. Maybe it's extreme right now, but we have to zoom back and see how it looks like. We're going to see. Never. Yeah, I think it's a bit extreme, so I'm just going to get back and bring down the exposure. Yes. Something like this and boom, Chaka Lalla. I don't why I said that but so far before, after. Absolutely love the look. Then as you can see, we have some spots on her face. I'm just going to remove it by going to either clone or heal. I think I'm going to go to clone. As you can see, it will automatically clone. But that was a big brush. I'm just going to go small, it's safer, and make sure the feather is a bit high and the opacity is 100. That's one. It's going to take a bit time and my laptop is absolutely dying. I definitely need a new laptop. Only the ones one are very obvious. I mean, obviously, if you want to do high beauty retouching, you cannot do it with Lightroom, you have to do it with Photoshop. But yeah, it is what it is. [NOISE] All right. I think pretty much that's it. I mean, I really like sometimes I would just really like to keep it simple only to remove the spot that are really bothering to the eyes. This is like so far before, after. I believe now I think I can add some liner graduated filter here to the side. I can add some exposure to it and drag the attention more to our subject, which is our model. It's really nice. I actually like it. I don't know about you guys. But before, after. Now, I'm going to go back to the color grading panel here. I just want to play around with the shadows here. Maybe I can add some bluish tone to the shadow. Yes, something like that. Actually, I like it. Then with the highlight, I think I'm going to go with something like yellowish or somewhere like that. Yes. Before, after. Last but not least, I'm going to go down and I think I'm going to add some grain for sure. Add some grain to add some texture to the photo. I'm going to make sure that I'm not going to go crazy with grain. I'm just going to keep it around 30. Maybe the roughness, I can add some roughness. But yeah, I think pretty much that's it. What I like about color grading, I'm going to get back to color grading. When you're done with all your adjustment, you can create that look that let's say you want to have on your Instagram and you can do that. This is the last step you can do with color grading. Like for example, if you want bluish tones to your photo, you can do that. Let's say if you want some yellowish kind of tone, you can also go for it. Yeah, let's get back to the blue. Guys, this is the final result. This is before, after, before, after. Now, what I like about Lightroom as I said and I mentioned probably 100 times, you can actually copy the adjustment and paste it on to another one. But before I do that, I have to uncheck the brushes, the local adjustment here, so I don't have to copy the brush adjustment because it would make no sense. So for example, we have this photo, we can just paste it. Now, it won't necessarily look good, but we can see how it's going to look. So far not bad. We can go to another photo here and then just press paste. As you can see, before, after. In this case, I think I'm going to bring down some of the blue in the shadow and even maybe potentially add some shadows here. Bringing down the highlights. So before, after. All right guys, this is pretty much it. If you made it till here, you're the OG, you're amazing and I just want to thank you so much. Please make sure to follow me everywhere so you can be updated for the next masterclass because I'm definitely going to be making more of this. Yeah. I hope you learned a lot, see you in the next one.