5 Fun & Easy Winter Watercolour Projects | Sharone Stevens | Skillshare

5 Fun & Easy Winter Watercolour Projects

Sharone Stevens, Watercolour, Illustration & Lettering

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11 Lessons (1h 39m)
    • 1. Intro

    • 2. Supplies

    • 3. Project 1 Gingerbread Part 1

    • 4. Project 1 Gingerbread Part 2

    • 5. Project 2 Cocoa Part 1

    • 6. Project 2 Cocoa Part 2

    • 7. Project 3 Penguin

    • 8. Project 4 Stockings Part 1

    • 9. Project 4 Stockings Part 2

    • 10. Project 5 Bauble

    • 11. Final Thoughts

18 students are watching this class

About This Class


In this class, we will paint five fun and simple winter projects in watercolour: a gingerbread man, a mug of cocoa, a cute little penguin, a garland with three hanging stockings, and a bauble. 

This class is great for beginners if you want to spend some time practicing with your watercolours or if you just want to paint something festive or wintry! 

I start by giving you an overview of the supplies that I will be using and then we will dive straight into the projects. As always, my painting is in real time and I take you through everything step by step with plenty of guidance and tips along the way.

I hope this class will allow you to feel more confident using watercolours and that you will have fun painting some cute little winter subjects!




1. Intro: Hi, my name is Sharon and I specialize in watercolor, modern calligraphy and illustration. In this class, I'll be showing you how to paint five fun and simple winter projects in watercolor. These include a gingerbread man, a mug of cocoa, a cute little penguin, a garland with hanging stockings and a bobble. To make it easy for you, I've included a template in this class which you can download and print off, which includes the outlines of the project so you don't need to worry about drawing out the right shapes. You can just concentrate on practicing with your paints. As always, this class is in real time so you can paint along with me and I give you tips and guidance every step of the way. This is a great class if you're fairly new towards colors and want to practice with some simple subjects, or if you just want to paint something festive. So grab your supplies and let's get started. 2. Supplies: As mentioned in the introduction, I have included some outlines for the projects for you in the resource section. The subjects are really simple, and you can easily draw these out yourself if you choose to, but they are there for you if you want to just concentrate on the painting and not worry about getting the shapes right. If you wish, you can download this, print, and either trace on a light box, or if you're using a block of watercolor paper like me, or don't have a light box, then you can just cut them out and draw around them, which is what I'll be doing. You'll need watercolor paper. I'll be using a block of Arches cold pressed watercolor paper. I'd recommend cold press for this class, and as always, at least a 140 pounds thickness so it can absorb the water. To draw your subjects, you'll need a pencil. I like to use a fine mechanical pencil because it's really light. Whatever you use, make sure it's not going to be too heavy, because you can't always erase your lines once they've been covered in watercolor. You'll also find it useful to have an eraser to get rid of any unwanted pencil lines. You'll need some watercolor brushes. I'll be using Princeton Aqua Elite round brushes in this class, which I'd highly recommend. These round brushes have a fine tip and a full body which can hold a decent amount of water and paint, so great for both fine lines or edges and covering more areas of paper. I'll mainly be using a size 4 or a size 6 round brush for this class, and occasionally, I'll be switching to a finer 0 for more delicate areas. You'll need some watercolor paints. I'll be using Winsor & Newton professional pans, but you can use tubes or whatever paints you have. Here is the full list of colors I'll be using for the whole class, and I'll be reminding you at the beginning of each project what I'll be using for that subject. Just to let you know here, I'll be using yellow ocher and burnt umber for the gingerbread man, Pthalo turquoise and burnt umber for the cocoa, ivory black, Winsor orange, and indigo for the penguin, sap green, burnt umber, Winsor red, and indigo for the stockings, and sap green, Winsor red, and ivory black for the bauble. You don't need to use these exact colors, but ideally you will have a brown, a blue, a black, an orange, a green, and a red. But of course, if you have the primary colors, then you can mix the rest up yourself. I'll also be using my Uni Ball white gel pen for a couple of the projects to add in white details, but any opaque white paint will be fine if you don't have that. White watercolor paint won't work for this because it won't be opaque. Finally, you'll need some water and a paper towel for taking off any excess water or paint from your brush. Now that we know what supplies we need, let's get started with our first project, the gingerbread man. 3. Project 1 Gingerbread Part 1: The first project we will be painting this gingerbread man. Is a really simple design and you can add in extra details if you wish, like colored buttons or a bow tie. But I wanted to keep it really simple for this class. The colors I will using are yellow ocher, which is this golden color and burnt umber. Hopefully, you will have a premix brown in your pallet for convenience but if you don't, then you can make a brown by adding a touch of blue to an orange. The first thing that we want to do is to draw the outline. I have cut out and drawn around the template that I provided for you. If you haven't seen that already, you can find the templates in the resources section where you can download and print it off. Just pause the video here and do that before we continue. Now we have our outline. We're going to add a few simple details in with our pencil. Let's start with the eyes, so two circles about a third of the way down the head. Next, let's draw the mouth. Again, keeping this really simple, we are just drawing a curve, like a banana shape, but with rounded edges. All of these bits of we're drawing in we'll be left white. You want to make sure that they're big enough to make an impact. Next, let's draw a wavy line along the arm. Then another one next to it following the same curves. Do the same on the other arm, and then do the same on each leg. Finally, we're going to draw three circles down the center for buttons. If you want to add a bow tie or any other decorations then you can draw them in now too. Now we can start painting. I'll be using my round size six Princeton Aqua Elite brush for this. I'm going to be starting with my yellow ocher. We want a fairly diluted mix to start with because we can build up as we go along. I'm going to be starting from the top. I'm working my way down. I've got a little drop of water on my brush there. I'm just going to wipe that off before it drops into my page. Start painting the head. As you get to the edges, slow down to make sure they're nice and neat. The aim is that we are going to cover the whole of the gingerbread with this fairly diluted color. Apart from those white areas that we drew in. Will be working in sections whilst the paint's still wet and adding slightly more concentrated bit serve the paint or are darker burnt umber, so that we don't have a completely flat wash. We want to give it a little bit of texture, and just by varying those values slightly, that will do this. As I said, we can work in sections. Whilst this head is still slightly wet, we can add a bit more concentrated mix to the edges and around those white bits, which will help give it some depth. I'm using my burnt umber now, still fairly dilated and I'm adding this around the edges. We'll also be adding this just below the eyes and the mouth as always in in a bit of shadow. The line is going to be coming from the upper left hand side, so we want to concentrate that shadow on the underside and on the right. But first, I'm just going to spend some time building up this color a little more using both of my colors and blending in. Now, I set a nice shadows underneath the eyes and the mouth. For this I'm using my burnt umber. You'll notice that I'm not doing this to dark, we're building up gradually. When it is dry, we can come back and add small depths with some crispy darker lines. If you need to blend in a bit more, then just take the axis [inaudible] your brush and just use your brush as a tool to move a paint around on the page. No adding anything more to the page but just moving around what is already there. Now we can carry on down to the body. Again, slowing down around these edges to make them nice and neat. If you're working on one area I notice some harsh lines at the edges elsewhere like this, then just clean and dry your brush and soften those lines. Then we can come back to that area later once we finished what we're working on, and so now we can just carry on where we were. This type of simple subject is actually really great for getting to know your what colors and learning how to blend and control the water to see don't get those harsh lines. Once we finished that body section, we can again go back to our burnt umber while is still a little wet. Then we can add this in around the edges. Hopefully, it should blend in naturally. If it's starting to dry too much then just clean and dry brush again and use your brush to spread the paint around until it's blended. Now I can go back to my yellow ocher and do each of the arms and legs. Now add in burnt umber or whichever dark brown mix you have and do this for each limb. Now that's a bit dark than the rest of the arm. What I'm to do is going to get back and add a bit more of that burnt umber to the arm, so it looks like it's connected and it's the same color underneath that white icing. Now I'm going to move to the legs. I'm building that color up particularly around the bottom right edge because I know that will be in more shade if the light is coming from upper left. Again, here underneath the icing, that's going to be a bit darker and more in shade. Hopefully, by now you have covered the whole gingerbread and you've started to build on the color a little, giving you a little texture and depth. We're going to leave this to dry for a few minutes and then build up that depth even more by working wet on dry. 4. Project 1 Gingerbread Part 2: Now, our gingerbread is dry, we can build up the shadowy areas underneath the icing and at the edges to make it look a little less flat and a bit more dimensional and more interesting. Let's start with the top again, so I'm adding my band amber underneath the eyes and just to remind you, the light is coming from the upper-left, some concentrating the shadows on the right and the undersides and you can see how those eyes are starting to pop out. If you need to, you can blend out a bit with a clean dry brush so that shadow is not so harsh. Let's do the same for the mouth and then work on the arm's edge on the right as well and this is where the edge of the biscuit curves around. Moving on to the left arm, do the same underneath the icing there. This one is a bit trickier so I'm just adding it to the more horizontal parts of that wave and then some shadows to this edge here as well and you can bring this all the way down that right-hand side. Next, let's work on the buttons, so just like the eyes painting that shadow to the right and on the undersides and then softening it if you need to. This is one of my favorite things about watercolor, watching how your painting can transform with these subtle details from something that might be quite flat to something that looks so much more live and it's these things that we usually do in the very final stages. So you just have to have faith in the process if you're not quite sure how it's going, it's a spinal bits of definition that usually transform the painting. Now let's work on the right leg building that shadow underneath the icing and at the bottom edge. Then underneath the trunk giving that curve some shadow and then the right side of that left leg. Now, you can just go around and touch up any areas if anywhere need a bit of extra shadow, just go and build on that color now. That's it for project one, hopefully you've enjoyed painting this gingerbread. If you did and you came to paint some more, you can use these techniques and the same method to paint other gingerbread biscuits like trees and stars with the icing on them or you can add other cute details like bow ties or scarves. Please do upload your painting to the project gallery and let me know if you have any questions. Our next project is a mug of cocoa. 5. Project 2 Cocoa Part 1: For the second project, we will be painting this mug of cocoa, or hot chocolate piled high with cream covered in a dusting of chocolate and with this yummy lifting wafer biscuit in it. The two colors that I'll be using will be burnt umber again and my fellow turquoise. I'll also be using my white gel pen for the details on the mug, and you can use any opaque white paint to this part. Start again by drawing around your template or draw the outline yourself, whichever you prefer. Then we can draw in the inside of the handle, and then connect the top of the mug, and draw another line parallel and this will be the rim of the mug. Then draw in the curves of the cream and add in the rest of the biscuit. Make sure to keep this light as we'll be only using a washing mix for this area just to give it some shadowing. We don't want to see those pencil lines. Let's start with the playset area, which will be the cream. For this, we want to leave some of it white and we just want to add in a very pile warship brown as a shadow, and we'll concentrate this around the edges and blend in. You can see how power that is. I am going back and picking up some of the excess water as well. With a very slightly darker brown, I'm going back and adding it to the edges and that corner there. But this is still really quiet pile. Now add some to that top section along the edges as well. Then underneath biscuit as well. If you add too much color, just pain your brush, dry it and pick it up from the paper. I'm going to work down this right side as well now, and blend that in. I'm going to add another faint curve here just how give that oval shape, and then soften that. That's it for the cream for now. Don't go too far with that. Once we've painted the rest and added in the chocolate sprinkles, it will really be a nice contrast. Now let's paint the mug while that dries. I only have the tech cozy in my tubes. I'm going to add a bit of that to my palette. I'm going to pull this out and add plenty water to it to dilute it. We're going to start by covering the whole base of the mug with this. I'm going to leave a thin gap between this part of the mug and the rim, that will just help it stand out a bit more. Just paint up to just beneath that line. Just continue to paint that all in, slowing down when you get to these edges to make them nice and neat, and then fill in this handle as well. Now I'm going to build up this play optically on each side and underneath that rim. As always if you need to blend in more clean and dry you brush on your paper towel. Now I'm going to build up the edges of the handle. Then just continue to build on that color until you're happy with. You can see, I'm not working on making this a ready flat wash, or this value is give allusion of reflections of that shinning mug. Then we can paint in the rim of the mug with a more concentrated mix. I'm working fairly slowly to keep this neat, and to keep that white gap between the rim and the bottom part of that mug the same width all the way along. 6. Project 2 Cocoa Part 2: Next we can move on to the biscuit. So for this, I'm going back to my burnt amber, and I'm using a darker mix than before. We're going for mid-level value here. So don't go too dark. We're going to be painting diagonal stripes. So let's start at the bottom where the biscuit meets the cream. Leave a gap, and then you can start by painting the outline that that stripe, and then fill it in. Then the next one, try and leave the same size gap if can, and fill that in. Now I'm picking up a more concentrated brown, and adding that in at the edge of each stripe to give it some depth. So it will appear like it's carving round because these wafers are cylindrical shaped. Do this on the other side too. With the same darker brown, paint in this top bit as well, which is the inside. Now we want to give a bit of highlight, clean your brush, and dry it on your paper towel, and then pick up some of that paint on the right side. Don't go right next to the edge. We just want to pick up a bit of paint, which is just right of the middle. Then just take that out onto your paper towel. This should give it a nice contrast, and really make the curve of the biscuit more apparent. Now with a tiny bit of that dilated brown, I'm going to run down the edges of these white areas very gently, very subtly, and blend into seizing the tip of my brush. Then if you need to just go back, and darken up the edges to increase that depth. I am going to add a little bit of shadow on cream behind the biscuits as well. If you think yours needs it, add a little more to the edges of the cream. As we wait for that to dry, we can go back to our blue or whatever color you chose your mug, and continue to build nice edges around the handle, and on the sides of the mug. Now we can grab a pen or white paint, and add our decorations. So I'm going to write the word "Joy", and then add some simple star shapes around it, but you can add whatever you like. Polka dots or more detailed pattern, whatever you wish. Some of those white bits aren't standing out as much I like. So I'm just going to add a bit of more blue to it. I'm just going to paint way over the white, and it's still coming through which makes it really nice, and to do this. The final thing that we want to do, is add in these chocolate sprinkles. So I'm going back to my burnt umber. We want these to be really fine speckles. So try and keep your brush fairly dry. Start at the tip, and then just work your way down. Try and cluster more of them around the edges as this will help with the illusion of depth, and gives those edges mode definition, especially because they are much lighter. That's complete. I hope you have enjoyed this project. Please, do add a like to the project gallery for us to see, and please do leave me with some feedback in a review if you have a moment. Keep watching for the next project, where I will be painting my favorite project which is a penguin. 7. Project 3 Penguin: For the third project we'll be painting this cute little penguin. I'll use three colors for this, Ivory black, winsor orange and Indigo. You can of course make up your out own orange using red and yellow and use wherever blue or other color you choose for this scarf. Okay, so you start by drawing around the template provided and you see by that are these small curves next to the neck. That's where the scarf is sitting, so we can draw that in two. First draw the top line connecting those two points with a slight curve. Then do the same for the bottom one making it a bit wider in the middle okay. Now let's draw the bit that hangs over the top so this goes slightly above the top line and then bring it down. Now we can draw the little bit of the scarf that sits behind that and that's shorter than the front piece. I'm actually just going to get back and make the top part a little bit longer and the same with the back bit. Now we can draw in the beak which is a v-shape coming to a point at the bottom. Coming up from that beak, we want to curve around coming fairly close to that side edge and do the same on the other side trying to make them quite symmetrical. Next draw the sides in, bringing it down to the bottom and drawing that line above the feet. Just to adjust this as you need to, I'm going to make this a bit shorter. The same on the other side, bringing that curve down okay, and that's a drawing done. If you have your potty rubber, you can just soften these lines if you need to before we start painting.. Okay, now we're ready to start painting. I'm going to start with the orange, which is the beak and the feet. We want a fairly bold orange for this, so they stand out quite well against the other colors. I'm not using too much water in this mix. I'm using the tip of my brush to make these nice and neat. If you find that yours are not as bold as you want them to be, just wait until it's dry and then paint over them to just build that orange up even more. Okay, next we're going to paint the scarf and I'm using my Indigo for this. We're going to build this up in stages and as the Indigo is a really strong color just make sure that those first lines are quite dilated, so adding plenty of water to this to dilute it down. With this we are going to fill in the whole scarf as a base layer. Make sure to give a little bit that goes above the top line. Once you fill that whole line, we want to give it a few minutes to dry and then we'll start building up that color. We want to have the top layer of the scarf that part that's coming over the top and down, we will want be the lightest as that would bring it forward in the viewer's eyes. The bit underneath that sits behind that, we want that to be the darkest and that will push it back. This subtle difference will help give it some depth. As you know, I love a bit of depth in my paintings. This is going to make more sense as we paint. Let's start with the bit around the neck first and just darken that over so slightly. Work up to the edge of that bit that's over hanging. As you can see, just by darkening that part around the neck over so slightly is making that hanging part appear as if it's closer to us, which it would be as it's sitting over the top. Now we can darken this bit underneath. It's still keeping this pretty subtle as you want to add stripes which should be even darker, but they should be a little darker than the part around the neck. I'm just going to darken that bit a little more. Let's leave that to dry and come back and paint the stripes a little lighter. Now we can move on to the black parts of the penguin, for this I'll be using my ivory black. Let's start with the head and work our way down. This is quite a concentrated black I'm using, I don't want it to be a solid black all over, I want some varying values in that to give it some texture. I'm working quite neatly around the edges and that beat to start with, and I'm just going to spread that color out. You can see as I pull it out, it's getting a bit more dilated. Then just work your way around filling in that outline that we drew in. I'm going to add concentrated black to the side areas to give it some good definition and make it stand out. I want more of a gray for the side. I'm going to dilate this black a bit more. Then again, I'm using a more concentrated black to get that definition in the edges. I'm going to do the same on the other side. Okay, at the very bottom edge. Then you can just keep doing this as much as you need to enjoy your hobby. Okay. Now for the eyes, and I'm switching to a smaller brush for this. You can either do small circles for the eyes or you can do these little curves, which I think that they're very cute. I'm not using much water and I'm using a good concentrated black for this and just using the tip of my brush within curved lines. Okay, now we can go back to this stuff. Just double-check that stripe first because we want the stripes to be nice and crisp. We can now paint in our stripes with the much more concentrated blue. We're going to do the stripes along the horizontal part of the scarf around the neck first, these stripes go downwards. Try and keep in the same way with the same gap in between. Okay, next we'll do the hanging down but it sits underneath and these stripes will be vertical. Now it'll be a little bit darker. Now I can paint in the stripes on the front hanging down, but I need to think some better names for these bits of this scarf. Try and make sure that these vertical stripes on that front part don't run into the stripes on that back pace as it'll end up looking like it blends together. We want to make sure that they look like they're separate pieces. We want to have some distinction between them. I'm going to start with a stripe that sits in the middle of two of the stripes in that back pace. Then we can work out from that. Okay. Now we can add some little bit of tussles at the bottom of the scarf, which are just lots of fine lines and then do the same for the back space. We're almost done now, so you just go and touch up to any area that's needed. Okay. That's our penguin and Project 3 complete. Please don't let your work to the product gallery. I can say, I really love to see your work and this guy is very cute, I really love to see what you've made of him. Don't forget to leave me a message or a review letting me know what you think of the class so far. For the next project will be painting a garland with three hanging stockings. 8. Project 4 Stockings Part 1: For this project, the fourth project, we will be painting this garland with these three stockings hanging from it. The colors that I'll be using, are Sap Green, Burnt Umber, Winsor Red, and Indigo. I'll also be using my White Gel Pen again for some of the details on the stockings. First we want to draw the stockings then, there are three slightly different shapes and sizes in the template. If you've caught the more land then just arrange them on the page, making sure to leave enough space for the Garland at the top. Aim to tilt your stockings to the side, there'll be hanging from here, so there'll be slanting to the right. Then this last one, because it is facing the opposite direction, it will be slanting near the way. Once you have the main position, draw around them and then once you have your outline, you can add in a line where the top section of each stocking ends. Now we want to draw a curve line as a guide for where the Garland will sit and then we can draw in the hanging lips from each stocking going all the way to that line. I'll be using my sizable brush for this painting and I'll be starting with my Burnt Umber and with this, we are going to paint along that line. Now pick up your green, so I'll be using my sap green again, and we want this to be a fairly bold green. We don't want it to be too wishy-washy, so don't have too much water in there. We're going to start from the left end and paint pines in with the small fluky brush strokes quite quickly and we're working from the line towards the right diagonally. As you go along, vary the length of them to make it more interesting and then we can get back to the star and work the same way on the underside. Try and lay some little gaps like I have, because we can fill them in with berries or leaves. Some of these lines can go all the way to to the center brown line as well, so just continue doing this all the way along until you get to the end. Sticking with the green, we are now going to go for a slightly more concentrated mic so it's darker and pain and a few leaves in this garland. I start with a short line coming out at the center, and then a simple leaf shape. Again, keep these slanted in the same direction as the pines, we don't want these sticking straight up or straight down. Try to leave some of those white gaps again for the berries which we will do next. Once you finish the leaves, let's pick up our red. Just to remind you, I'm using Winsor red which is a really bold primary red great for berries. I'm switching to a smaller brush as well for this and I'm just painting in some simple circles. Try and keep this fairly close to the center line, so wherever there is a gap we can add one or two or even three berries in. Once you finish the berries get back to your ban umber and paint in thin lines connecting each berry to the center. You can also add some wispy little brown lines in random places along the garland, just to give it some extra detail. That's the garland finished now we can move to the Stockings. 9. Project 4 Stockings Part 2: For this first stocking, I'm going to be using indigo. We're going to keep all of these stockings really simple, with a simple pattern on each. But you can make yours more elaborate and detailed if you want to. Especially if you've watched my patterns class and you'll have lots of designs already ready to go. We're going to fill in that bottom section with a mid value blue. We will be adding white details on top with our pencil. It just needs to be dark enough for white to have an impact on top. We can then use a more concentrated blue to fill in this top section. I'm leaving a thin gap of white in between this and the bottom section to make it stand out more. Now I can paint the hanging looping. As it reaches the garland the left side will be sitting underneath the garland so we wont see that and the right side will be in front of it. We can paint that right part in so it looks like it's looping over the top. Once that dries, we can move on to our middle stocking, which I'll be using my Windsor red for. We want a solid red for this, so really concentrate it and start by filling in that top section. Then again leave a thin gap white line, and paint thick stripes down the rest of the stocking. Try and adjust these lines as you go around the curves so that the lines stay parallel with the bottom of the stocking. Now paint in the hanging loop the same as we did before. By filling in the top with a dark green. Leave that thin white gap again and then fill in the rest of the stocking with a slightly more diluted green. Then paint in that loop, exactly the same as before. Now we can add in our patterns and details. So going back to the first stocking, the blue, I'm going to use my white pen to draw in some details. I'm starting with two lines and then adding in small hearts and dots, so they're alternating. Add in another line above and below the other lines and then draw in a zigzag line above and below as well. Then you can add some dots into the rest of the stocking. You can also add in a heel and a toe with a slightly darker blue if you want to and then I'm just going to finish those dots off. For the red stoking, again, I'm using my white pen to add details in starting with some little arrows. I'm going to skip one of these stripes and then add in some simple trees. I'm just drawing a line down the center and then just some lines across. In this middle one above that one with trees, I'm going to go back and add some simple dotted lines in it. We can do the same for the one below the trees with small dotted lines, and then add in some more arrows in this last one. I'm going to leave that end one plain. For the green stoking, I'm going to use a darker green to draw some stripes alternating between thick and thin. At the end I'm going to paint a thicker section in. If you want, you can go back to that blue one and using your small brush add in some little lines for stitches around the heel and the toe. We're finished. Don't forget to upload your project to the Gallery and let me know what you thought of the project. For the next and final one, we'll be painting a bauble. 10. Project 5 Bauble: For this final project we'll be painting this bauble. I'll be using sap green and Winsor red and ivory black. This is the only project that I haven't provided a template for, because it's a simple circle that you can use some solid tape or glass to draw around, and it will be easier to get a neater circle that way then if we had to cut out first. Once you have your circle, draw any rectangular shape at the top with a bit of a curved zigzag line at the base. Draw a circle above this, and then add in a string. First, I'm just going to show you how we'll be painting the foliage in this, and you can practice this too, so it will be similar to the garland in the last project where we start with a curved line, and then paint lines coming out of the center diagonally, and these can be different lines. Then for the various tips, use your read to paint an Ivo, which can come to a bit of a point at the top. You can leave a dash of white paper in that for reflection if you want to or just paint it all in and keep it really simple. Then using your green paint, paint three lines coming out at the top, then draw the stem and add in a simple leaf. That's basically yet, we'll be varying the valleys as well as we go along, which I'll talk you through. Start from the edge and paint a curve line, try and be as neat as possible whenever you're working next to the edge, we don't want any paint to go outside of that line, and then paint nice pines in. We don't need to be too dark because we'll be painting leaves over the top when we paint in the various tips, and paint another one in the opposite direction. We'll be painting in a few of these first, then we'll fill in the gaps with the various tips and then we'll boycott the edges with some paella pine branches at the end to give the edge of the circle some definition. Add and another one reaching up to the top and then two more over here on the left. I'm going to add a little bit in here as well to fill that gap. I'm mostly going to add a slightly paella one down here at the bottom as there's quite a big gap here. Now we can move on to the various tips, so you start with you branch line and add a couple of a stems coming off of that, then paint in a couple of leaves. We'll continue with the green and then come back and do the read bit, so just continue painting these in so they spread out nice and evenly across the bauble. We can move on to our red and paint a nice oval shapes at the end of each stem. Finally, again back to the green, add in those three little lines coming out of the top of each rose hip. Next, we can paint in the top, so grab your black. We want it to be quite diluted. Let's make the edges darker so it looks like it's covering round, giving it some depth. Now just paint over the circle and the string. Finally, if you feel like you've got too many gaps around the edge of that bauble and want to make it look more defined as a circle, because we're going to be erasing that pencil line, you can paint some more of those pine branches with a phthalo green just near the edges. We're done. I really hope you've enjoyed this class. I can't wait to see your work. If you have a moment, please do leave me a review and let me know what you thought. I do read them all and they mean so much to me and I take everything on board so I can improve my classes and make them as useful and enjoyable for you as possible. Stay tuned for the final video with some final thoughts. 11. Final Thoughts: Firstly, thank you so much for taking this class. I really hope you've enjoyed it. I really enjoyed making it and painting these simple fun wintry subjects, and I hope you did too. Please do share your project or projects with me, and the rest of the students, upload them into the project gallery and let me know what you thought the class. You can also upload to Instagram and tag me using Sharone Stevens Design or use the #Learnwithsharone. Please do leave me a review. They mean so much to me and are really helpful for other students to see when deciding whether or not to take the class. They also let me know I'm on the right track with these classes and encourage me to make lots more. I take all of your favorite [inaudible] as well, so I can improve my classes and make them as valuable as possible for you. Finally, if you fancy taking another winter class, then do check out my Christmas patterns class if you haven't already. You can also check out my other classes on watercolor. I've got 14 now, if you want to try out any other subjects. Happy painting and I hope to see you in the next class.