4b-Sewing Without Reading a Pattern-continued POCKETS | Marcy Newman | Skillshare

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4b-Sewing Without Reading a Pattern-continued POCKETS

teacher avatar Marcy Newman, SewwwMuchMore!

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

5 Lessons (14m)
    • 1. Welcome!

    • 2. Patch Pocket Construction

    • 3. Front Hip Pocket and UNDERSTITCHING

    • 4. Side Seam Pocket Construction

    • 5. Conclusion

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About This Class

Sewing Without Reading a Pattern and its' continual lessons teaches you a progression of steps of Sewing garments once you are ready to sew your Fashion fabric. This is the second part that teaches that before you are able to Sew your seams together, the Inside work on the pieces need to get done first. Such as in the first video, Staystitching and the couture Darts and pleats. This video covers the next step which are 3 Basic pockets, Patch, Side Seam pocket and the Front Hip pocket. I've Included are all the pattern pieces you need to make each sample which makes it so easy for you to try them.  

Meet Your Teacher

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Marcy Newman



My mother taught me to sew at an early age followed by high school sewing, but after years I still struggled with certain tasks. When a friend told me about a Fashion Design Program my desire was to become a confident Sewer.  After I graduated I taught for many years at Night School classes where I applied the unique method I learned. The feedback from students was always positive. My philosophy is that Organization is key in life. Because of my broad understanding of the process beginning with the Design, followed by Pattern development, my classes all include parts of these and are organized to help Sewers of all ages and experience. 

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1. Welcome!: Welcome to the second video in a series of sewing without reading a pattern. This one is the three basic pockets. The patch pocket in its simplest form, the front hip pocket, which is basically a blue jean pocket. And last is the side seam pocket. I've included a PDF pattern pieces for all of these samples that are on 8.5 by 11 pieces of paper. So they're very easy to print out and use. I hope that before you get started with the video, you'll print them out and work along with me. So let's get started. Patch pocket is first. 2. Patch Pocket Construction: I attached PDF pattern pieces that you can use to do all my samples. A patch pocket is basically a rectangle and you can use any size you want, but mine is about five inches wide by six inches long. Press the top edge of the pocket toward the inside. Remember to put the masking tape on the inside of the peak. Practice, the habit in case there's a different look, even a subtle look to each side. Using a regular stitch and back picking at both ends. So the edge down. Turn the hymn to the inside, and so on both sides of the pocket. For this sample, we'll use 1.5 of an inch or one centimeter. Purchase patterns may use five-eighths of an inch. Backstitch at the top and the bottom. Don't feel pass the bottom edge or the sketches will be seen on the outside of the pocket. I'm Mark to the corner angle that needs to be trimmed in order to get a perfect corner. When we turn it out. You want to leave at least an eighth of an inch from the stitching. I have a little trick. I'm also going to show you I trim the hymn side to the corner right off. And when trimming the other side, I leave a bit of overhang so that the edge is more secure and tucked under. Turn the hymn to the inside and then press the pocket edges in. The only thing left now is the top stitch your pocket. In whatever way you like. When planning to top stitch the pocket. You are a designer so you can talk fit to anyway you want. But think about how you're going to sew it onto the garment. I usually leave the outside edge for the sowing of the pocket onto the garment. And I talked it anywhere inside that. I've taught it to quarter of an inch from the edge along the sides and the bottom. I usually so down the ham egg so it's secure. And I liked that look. Sometimes I do one line of fit things, sometimes I do too. In this one, I decided I'd also stitch along the top edge as well. Then I need the edge itself to sell the pocket onto the garment. By the way, you never have to clean finish the inside of the pocket in case you were wondering, it just makes it bulky. Join me in the next video where I show you how to do the front hip pocket. And I show you the most valuable stitch. I ever learned. The patterns, tried for years to explain to me, but I could never understand it properly. Seafood. 3. Front Hip Pocket and UNDERSTITCHING: This is what the PDF pattern pieces for this sample look like. Each piece is on its own, 8.5 by 11 piece of paper, which makes them easy to print out, cut them out and work with me. While I show you how you can see, I use the small green stripe for the pocket. And the other piece is called The facing. On the inside. It will look like this, but we will begin with the right sides together. And so they're facing to the front, matching the curve. I'm going to use one centimeter or a half of an inch seam allowance to so the facing to the front. Your pattern might require you to use 58 provenance backstitch at the top and at the bottom of the stitching. Now I'm going to show you the most valuable stitch I learned in school for years. I read the instruction sheet on how to undertake. I couldn't understand the way they propose to do it. For adjusting your cut off the seam allowance before understating. That still doesn't make sense to me. Let me show you the way I learned. You can choose your method if you're used to doing it the other way. You will want to hold your pieces like this and pull them tightly apart. And I'm just going to put a pin in here to show you that both seam allowances will be pushed to the facing side, not the garment side. No matter if you're stitching a neck facing or whatever, it will always go to the facing side. Sometimes I prefer to show it with the seam allowances facing me. And sometimes I prefer to so it from the other side where I can't see the seam allowances, but I still know by using my fingers that I'm pressing the seam allowances to the facing. Now you're going through so very close to the seam that joined the pieces together. And the key is pulling the two pieces apart, keeping the seam allowances down. Sometimes holding them with your finger. By pulling the two pieces apart, you're ensuring that nothing is getting caught underneath. Now trim almost all the seam allowance off her Numpy right side out and press it on both, like here. It looks so professional. Imagine doing that after the fema had been cut off. This seems easier and much more hands off me. Now let's join me. People together. Lie down the new front piece and place the pocket piece behind it to fill in the space of the front. Lift up the paint front to reveal the facing and match the bottoms together. So the pocket edges together on the outside rounded edge, I thought at one. And then once again, fairly close. But you can also search them or clean finish them in your own favorite way. Zigzag is fine too. The last thing you want to do to make these three pieces become one pant front is to stay stitch the top edges to keep them in place and down the side to keep them in place. You'll know how to stay stitch. If you watched my fourth video going without reading a pattern, It's the first sample I showed you how to do, though. I did it on the front neck line. This is another reason we do stay stitching to keep pieces together till they're joined to other pieces. And that completes the front hip pocket. See you in the next video for the side seam pocket. 4. Side Seam Pocket Construction: This is what the PDF pattern pieces for the side seam pocket sample look like. As before, each piece is on its own and a half by 11 piece of paper. So they're easy to print out. You need to cut one front, one back, and to pocket pieces with right sides together and using a one centimeter seam allowance for my sample. So one pocket to the front P, and one pocket to the back piece. On both the front and the back neck. The theme allowance to allow the joined pocket and to be understood toward the pocket. Under both pieces. Trim the excess away, being careful to check occasionally on both sides to ensure that nothing gets in the way of your scissors. If you prefer, you can pin your pieces together with right sides together. We will now flow around the pocket. You can see my purple line indicating my theme line around the curve of the bottom. But for my first stitch, I'm using the presser foot as my guide and we'll fill on the seam line neck. When you get to the end of the curved bottom of the pocket, you can keep your needle in and pivot across to where the theme line of the pant is turning and pivoting again to turn, to throw the scene together. It would be usual for me to clean finish the pan themes before I get to that later, but I only realized that after. So I went in and did three options for clean finishing. I did a third edge. I did one straight line going beside the cut edge. And the third method I used was just turning in about an eighth of an inch and sewing it down. Either one of these three methods is sufficient to clean finish the PAMP side seam or the infield. You also have to go in and go the guide theme at the top of the pocket. So you can turn and pivot, go over to the top of the edge about an inch or so. And then the next thing we'll do is they did the pocket in play, connecting it to the front of the pack. 5. Conclusion: That concludes the video on three basic pocket. Hopefully you found it helpful. And possibly you learned that they aren't as complicated as you may have thought. The next video in my theories of sample will be creamed finishing technique. Look forward. Who? Happy going.