4-SEWING Without Reading a Pattern | Marcy Newman | Skillshare

4-SEWING Without Reading a Pattern

Marcy Newman, SewwwMuchMore!

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7 Lessons (36m) View My Notes
    • 1. SWP 1 intro

    • 2. 2 Naked truth

    • 3. 3 Staystitching

    • 4. 4 Regular darts

    • 5. Fisheye Darts

    • 6. Pleats and Tucks

    • 7. 7 samples


About This Class

My classes are designed with the absolute beginner in mind, which is why they are a series in order.

4- (This one) Sewing Without Reading a Pattern - Because all my students asked me to teach them How to read a pattern, I teach using the process I learned in Fashion Design School. With this understanding of the Step by step process, the New Sewer will learn what must be done first, and what can be done later. 

OTHER VIDEOS in order:

1. Sewing Machine Basics - Seen one, you've Seen them all. 

2.  What Sewing Patterns DON'T Tell You--Will lead the Beginner from the Purchase of a Pattern to the Laying out of pieces and testing the pattern (called Making a Muslin) before cutting out fabric, filling in all the blanks I've discovered after years of Sewing and studying Fashion Design. . (This video is temporarily being fine tuned and will be available shortly)

3-All Sewing Patterns Start like This: (Pattern Drafting Basics Theory)- Background information of the Slash and Spread method showing where pieces may be adapted or changed as learning increases. 

The Easiest Sleeve Insertion (Couture) is for the experienced Sewer and is not in the series of Beginner Videos. 



1. SWP 1 intro: Hi there. If this is the first video that you're watching of Mine. My name is Marcy. This video is in response to a question I was asked continually as an instructor. Could you please teach me how to read a pattern? This instruction is because after you've cut out all your pieces, the raw edges now need to be treated in a certain way. The process that I teach is a process that I learned in fashion design school. It was very organized and we made samples of all of the portions of garment construction that you would come across. And so this video is organized in the same way. I hope you will make samples and keep them in a book. And that's what I'm going to show you. So let's get started. 2. 2 Naked truth: Ok, throw away those instructions. It's time to get down to the raw edges and learn how to deal with each and every one of them individually. This piece shows seven different images of pieces that are naked, where you can see that there will be some markings that need to be put on them. And it's an indication that there are darts, fisheye darts, pockets, pockets, etc. First, in the center, you will see, I've shown a little example of the inside work, such as darts, fisheye darts, which are what we see here. Pleats, talks, pockets, pockets on the sleeves or neck lines. They have to be done before the whole pieces joined together at the side seems to another side seem, generally speaking, the longest seems on your garment, Like the side scenes, the inseam and that, and the side seam on the pants, on a coat or a jacket. They always need to be joined together with other side seems. For example, the front to the back side seams. And that will require that they be clean finished before you put them together. So first we do the inside work and then you'll do the clean finishing. And I'll be showing you exactly how to do that. And at the top, I show that neck lines will need to be treated in some way. So you either need to put a color on them, put facings on them, or bind them with our biased binding, which can be done sometimes children's clothes, it's easy to do that. And then shoulder seams will always match other shoulder seams, but arm holes will always take sleeves, some facings or bindings. I spoke about the side seams and the end seams of a pant. And this distorted little image that doesn't really look very much like a pant. But it also is pointing out that there's a front hip pocket, which is like a pocket in pair of blue jeans. And the front hip pockets take two pieces. So they take a facing to the top edge, just like in image number three above. And then they fill that other space in with the same colored fabric or a choice of another color if you like. But they got needs to be done before. It becomes one whole piece and you stay stitch it together. And then it becomes the piece and it's joined at the side seems to the backpack. I was very excited when I realized that this was a new way to teach you, was that after we'd cut out the pieces, that we had to treat every edge before we got to the portion where we would. So the edges together are used to just teach the clean finishing the edges as the very first stage. But recently, I became aware of the fact that before you do any clean finishing, there's so many things we have to do to each piece. And so if you're a complete beginner, this would be so helpful to know. Treat each piece first individually and then it's a long way down the road before we go. And so the scenes together of the pants or the skirts or the dresses or the shirts, that kind of thing. So I hope that helps a lot of these steps that I've told you don't have to be done in any particular order, can choose when to do your dark stay stitching and front hip pocket right away. So you have some flexibility. Do you have a better understanding? I hope so. Now I'm getting onto the sample making. See you in the next video. 3. 3 Staystitching: Stay stitching is done for a couple of different reasons. Stay stitching is done to keep the shape of a neck line from stretching outer shape while you're working with it. Because on a curved piece of fabric, you're actually sewing on the bias stays. Stitching is done with a smaller stitch in its specific direction to prevent the stretching of the neckline. It's also used when you want to keep a couple of pieces together while you're working on them before they are sewn together at the sites. Use, for example, as I spoke in the previous video, we use it to keep the three pieces of a front hip pocket together. When we do pleats, you'll see down the road we're going to stay stitch them together. Tucks will be stay stitch together. Fisheye darts and darts can be stay sticks together. So let's get started. I'll show you how. For the purpose of this instruction, I have just cut out a small sample of neck line. I've just drawn little arrows from the shoulder to the Center on each side that shows the direction in which you so the stay stitching. Next you will see where I've actually done it. I've reset my stitch length to a two. Going to back stitch. It's not necessary. Just gonna stop at the center. Do the same thing on this side. And that's how easy stay stitching. And that's done. Put away your piece, get ready for the next step, darts, pleats and tucks. And this could be your first sample with the instructions beside it, that you will always have to refer to. 4. 4 Regular darts: So we are going to draw a dart on a scrap piece of fabric, maybe four inches by four inches. I'm going to show you how to do it and then we'll sew it up. I'll show you that part. Are you going to do is get a scrap piece of fabric. Like I say, any size really is fine. And we're going to draw a line in the middle. You can draw it in pen because then when you have your sample that you keep in your book, it'll always be there. So just draw a straight line from the top edge, 3.5 inches to the top, and then measure over half an inch. And market such as this half inch that way, half-inch that way. And then join it to the bottom on each side. And then make a notch half an inch from the top, an inch from that, and an inch from the other. So half an inch. Make a dot here. These will give, give you the lines when your gonna fold it together. It gives you the folding. You're going to make this line match that one, right? So, so then an inch again, draw a circle or a notch, whatever. And then another inch down. Let's say it's just a guide. I'll show you how we bring the two outside lines to the middle. So now we take this and we fold it. What you do is you not shit. So you notch this arm and then this and then you make sure the top notches are matching each other. And then you fold along the center line. Don't have depress it with an iron or anything like that. Just gonna fold it. And then there's precedent. And then we're just going to, so from here to here, pattern tells you to, to so at the top and backstage, and then so all the way down and then back stitch again at the bottom. But you can't actually back stitch at the bottom because you're in you're in nowhere land. So to try to go back when there's really no Fabric to backstage on is it just doesn't work. So what we learned, the French way tour way to do it is you just start at the beginning. And then you saw all the way off about ten stitches and then those two stitches, the tie each other up, they get all twisted. And you leave that length of about an inch and a half long and just trim it off and then you'll see that their title, they're all tied up. So I'm going to show you darts are used to remove excess fabric from an area. It's a result of a difference in the width between the hip, the waste. It's a shaping method and it can be used anywhere though we're going to use a regular stitch length of 2.5 and you start at the beginning, go three or four stitches, stitch to the beginning. And then just so right on that line. All the way off. Ten stitches. Okay. I have an automatic cutter on my wonderful machine. Here's a good shot and that's it. You would just leave it like this. And it's really tightly woven together because that's what it does. If you go straight off, you don't get a little circle, a little bubble when you press the dart. See, it looks pretty good. You can tell right now that there's no bubble there, there and there is your Dart easiest pi. Then we fold it towards the outside, which is the side seem. So I will press it now and show you how to press it properly. Here I have two pressing items. I think this one is used and I was, I inherited this from somebody. But I believe it's for getting inside of a sleeve and being able to press the SIM inside a sleeve, you could use this or you could use the ham or regular ham. So what you're gonna do is take your Dart and if this is your side seam going to pull this apart, your iron, you're going to press, remember the steam is what you want, is just going to press it, pull it apart, press it, and pull this over so you can get a nice press the bottom. Parsing it up and down. Then when you turn it over, you'll see there's no little circle there. You get a nice line. You'll know if you don't do it right, because when you go to try it on, you'll see that it sticks out. So did just means I have to straighten your line, go back, straighten your line. And it's often caused because people tried to back stitch like your instruction, say at this place of no return, I mean, it's just impossible to try to back stitch. It kind of I think gets a little stressful in a way that you're trying to back stitch. And you can't always get your needle back into this place because there's no room to do that. And so then you end up not getting the last part of the dart straight. Whereas that's why this method is so great because you just sew off, let all the stitches bind themselves together and you're done. Here we are. So beautiful, dark, beautiful. 5. Fisheye Darts: This is a fisheye Dart. If you look close, it looks like the two darts put together, basically. One there, one there. And I'm going to show you how to do it. It removes excess around the waist of a garment, so goes from under the bussed to Just Between the waste in the hip. All right, let's do one. For the purpose of this video, I have drawn two darts that meet in the middle and then just going to fold the Dart in the middle. I've done two of them side-by-side, so I can show you two different methods of sewing them. The first way to do it is to do exactly the same way that you did the irregular Dart. So you start somewhere in the middle backstage and you just so all the way off till it ties itself up and then go back in. And wherever you started, backstage again, some at the other end. And then just so all the threads and then cut them. So that's just the same way as a Dart is done, right? And the second way is coming up. Okay. I'm going to put the needle in an inch and a half away from the point and start here. Just back stitch, a couple of stitches. Follow the dark lines. So right off. And then don't cut it. Lift up your needle and pull it out. Even a little bit of slack there. Go in. And then So a few stitches. Come back stitch and cut it off and turn it around and then go back to where you started. Do the same thing on the other side. So all the way off, lift up your needle, pull it out to give yourself a bit of slack and just go in. This is about the distance it should be. The first one was a little bit too far away. Just make it like an inch or so. So that's the actual couture technique of Fisheye Dart, which you won't see anywhere else. Yeah, see this one is I find that's a little bit long. Should have gone in here, just pulled it out too much, so I wouldn't do that. I do this, this one's much better known. Just cut off the thread. Don't cut the loop, that you just cut the beginning. And we're taling beginning and then leave that piece in there and then present. Then we're just going to press it the same way that we did with the other one and we'll press it towards the outside. So if that was the side seem just press it. You have to kind of pull that access in order to get it that curve. You have to kind of make sure that without getting your hands burnt, students very hot. You have to. I sit down and think it's gonna be fun. Top stitch them because top stitching them makes a whole different thing. So you could actually, so these on the outside, not if it was done like this, but if, if it was the first method like here, then you could take this thread in here, like this, right? And then pin it. Pin this, the tip that dart down and you could top stitch it all the way down there. All right, so here with this method you can't, you'd have to disconnect it and it's not going to look right. So anyway, let's do that. I'm just going to pull this as I had said, I would and tuck it under here. Then top stitch it close as you can to the point. Pulling them pn out soon as you get in there. So I'll put your needle in. These things will come eventually. With your confidence that getting close to the edge like this, et cetera. Alright, to do both of the ways to pin. So close to the edge, you have to kind of pull the fabric so that you're not getting any toxin there. Looks pretty cool on the outside. Makes such a nice detail like I say, you can even do it on the outside of a garment. Makes a whole knee deep detail. Dare to do it. You can see that over pins, you go very slowly. Then. This is what it looks like on the outside. And if you'd like, you're like the artist, right? You're drawing something here. So you could just top stitch it again for your y right beside the line that you're outlining it, like you, like you're drawing it with thread. You weren't doing drawing. And I really like that. So then you just press it. Yes, it would be really nice if you had if you did this on a possibly a dark colored fabric like black and you wanted to outline it with a different color. It's be subclassing and beautiful. Alright. See you in the next video. 6. Pleats and Tucks: Hi there. Welcome to the video on pleats in tucks. I will show you the way that pattern tells you how to do beats. And then I will show you the couture technique that I learned about how to do pleats. Let's get started. Please are basically folds in the fabric. First of all, take a piece of fabric that's a scrap and about six to seven inches wide approximately, and draw one line in the middle and measure one centimeter on each side of it twice so that you end up with a piece that looks like this. And it's got five lines on it. And all you're going to do is you're going to fold along the middle line and make it meet the center line. And you're going to fold along the other middle line and make it meet the center line. And you're going to press it, Peanut and stay stitch it. The inverted feet is what you'll end up with on the front. And a box fleet is what you will end up with on the back. And also pressed and stay stitch at the top first or use the edge of my zipper foot as a guide. Fleets and then so there's your plants already. So then when you put your waist band on or whatever it is you're going to do. It's secure while you're working and it's not gonna come out. While you also could be asked to do a clean that is simple. One that we did in the beginning, right? Yeah. A six line. And you fold it here, they're way peanut. Once you pin them than you press them, see numbness would be an I1. Let's say you get the idea that so easy, I've decided to just put in another plate there. So that's a basic plea, folds in the top. And you could do as many as you like doing yourself some samples, press them, makes acute mental skirt and stay stitching. This is the method that I'm going to talk about that is going to be different than a pattern. So you may have a pattern that asks you to so down the line and then backstage at the bottom. So we're gonna do it the way the pattern tells you. And then I'm going to show you two methods. That one is wrong and one is right. So this is also wrong. So two wrong methods, the way they tell you and the right way. Well, the best way, a couture way that you will, you will see. So the pattern just may say backstage at the beginning of the line and go to the bottom. There may be a circle there or some indication, that's it. And then you've got search. That's what they're going to tell you to do, is one line now, the next way. Now with this way, I don't think that you'll ever be told to do this. But for some reason we were taught. Another wrong way to do it. People may think that if you sew down, I've made a fold right? So and sewing about a centimeter from the edge. Back stitch again. When you get to the bottom of this line, let's say you want your plate that long, but then you would turn and you would go over to the edge and then back stitch. But that's not writing. But the way that I'm gonna show you, this way you should do, I would like you to make a sample of these three ways too, so you can write your notes to yourself that say Wrong, wrong right? Now, you're gonna do the same thing. So the backs teaching will be the same. Begining will be the same. Then you're gonna do when you get to the bottom, where the bottom of the plate should be going to make a nice little curve. And when I prestige, you'll see why search they're just do a nice little codes. Can lift up your foot, goes straight off to the edge and you come back. You have to ways that are not quite right. So the reason is that you're going to press these, most likely they're going to be plates on the inside. You're going to press them down and you're going to stay sit at the top. So it's possible that there will be pressure on this piece. You can see already It's at risk of coming out. And it's the same as this one because that's an end point and it's going to be putting pressure on there in case you, for some reason stretch it right? But whereas this one, you can see that because we did a curve, there's really no pressure on that point there. I would say best-practice couture technique. Right? Versus that says that using a scrap piece of fabric to make some talks. And you can see that I've already done to tucks here. And then these lines that are drawn, I'm going to show you how to do. For the rest of them. I would say that tux are simple, but finicky. I never liked them when I was well, I never really did them. A lot of times when you are required to do them, you required to do them really close to each other, which I just I'm not into that, that I find that kind of stressful because you're not easy to get super close to each other. But if they were like this where there are about an inch apart, all you're doing is sewing right beside the edge of the fabric. And it's actually not that hard. Well, the other two words, and I'll see, I'm going to do this one. And then I think I'm going to change the thread for you. So bad. It's a little easier to see how close to the edge. In case you're wondering why I have the green masking tape on my machine. It's just because the reflection of the camera on the silver creates a bit of an issue. So that's the only reason that's there. Let's do this with the black on one side and I'll show you what pink on the other, on the bobbin thread. So these would be pressed one way or another. I would probably pressed them out. And I did that in the first two. Let's talk about tucks. Tucks are made to create a texture on a fabric. You wanna be careful and do it possibly on a solid color fabric and not on a very busy flowered fabric because already flowers are texture and this tux or texture. So you don't want boats. You don't want to textures fighting with each other for attention. But I really wanted to see I had a busy fabric close by, some, some print. And I tested it out and did some tux on them and then press them down. And it actually looks okay. They're far apart. But again, I'm not sure if your pattern would probably not ask you to do that. And it's probably, you can see these on white shirts and toxin or tucks are better on little children's peanut force. You know, you'd see them in the olden days on a nice white shirt. Black shirt. Maybe I think they show up best on white myself, but probably will not be asked to get busy. Flowered fabric. That's toxic. Easy, simple, challenging. 7. 7 samples: Well, this concludes my fourth video where I teach you the processes of sewing that will prevent you from having to read a pattern. Well, this is our collection of seven samples. And I hope you'll create yourself a book. Put them beside the information, right, notes on them, et cetera, for yourself. So that you'll always have this information. The next video you'll see will be pockets. We're going to learn how to do a patch pocket and front hip pocket inside scene pockets. Three variations of the side seem pockets. So hope you'll look for that video that should be coming out pretty soon. And until then, happy sewing.