4-SEWING Without Reading a Pattern | Marcy Newman | Skillshare

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4-SEWING Without Reading a Pattern

teacher avatar Marcy Newman, SewwwMuchMore!

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

7 Lessons (33m)
    • 1. Hi there!

    • 2. The Naked Truth

    • 3. StayStitching

    • 4. Couture Darts

    • 5. Fisheye Darts

    • 6. Pleats and Tucks

    • 7. Conclusion

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About This Class

My classes are designed with the absolute beginner in mind, which is why they are a series in order.

4- (This one) Sewing Without Reading a Pattern - Because all my students asked me to teach them How to read a pattern, I teach using the process I learned in Fashion Design School. With this understanding of the Step by step process, the New Sewer will learn what must be done first, and what can be done later. In this first video I show you what to do as soon as you're ready to start sewing your Fashion fabric and I include couture darts, pleats and tucks.  

OTHER VIDEOS in order:

1. Sewing Machine Basics - Seen one, you've Seen them all. 

2.  Understanding Patterns - FREE -Takes the Brand new Sewer through the whole pattern and all the information.  

3- What Sewing Patterns Don't Tell you! Test your Pattern!  I show you how simple it really is. 

All Sewing Patterns Start like This: (Pattern Drafting Basics Theory)- Background information of the Slash and Spread method showing where pieces may be adapted or changed as learning increases. 

4b-Sewing Without Reading a Pattern  continued-  3 Basic pockets, Patch, Side Seam pocket and the Front Hip pocket..  

The Easiest Sleeve Insertion (Couture) is for All Sewers. Perfect for the Beginner who is timid about putting a Sleeve in, this comprehensive coverage should ease your worry. 



Meet Your Teacher

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Marcy Newman



My mother taught me to sew at an early age followed by high school sewing, but after years I still struggled with certain tasks. When a friend told me about a Fashion Design Program my desire was to become a confident Sewer.  After I graduated I taught for many years at Night School classes where I applied the unique method I learned. The feedback from students was always positive. My philosophy is that Organization is key in life. Because of my broad understanding of the process beginning with the Design, followed by Pattern development, my classes all include parts of these and are organized to help Sewers of all ages and experience. 

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1. Hi there!: Hi there, My name is Marcy. Today I began teaching you how to show without having to read a pattern. It's a methodical, step-by-step process that is kind of like first things first, we will make samples of portions of the Garmin along the way that you can keep and refer back to later. I have also included the PDF sample pattern pieces for you to print out. Along with the, Nope, I'm really excited to share this method with you. So let's get started. 2. The Naked Truth: Throw away those instructions. And let's get down to the naked truth that get to the raw edges and learn how to treat each one of them individually. Welcome to the naked truth. I'm calling these pieces naked because there are markings on them, but none of the work has been done yet. It shows that you can look at a piece to see what needs to be done to them. There are often marking. In one apparent pocket needs to be put on and buttonhole are required after interfaced into buttons, map. All pieces number to meet the darks to be done before almost anything else. Three is a pant front with the two pieces that make up the front hip pocket for show the top two lines on the pocket. But the pocket itself has to be made for. Five is showing you the sleep which will require work on their head between the knotted by gathering or using my couture techniques with bias tape, you won't see any markings on their head to indicate that your instructions will just tell you to gather between your notches. But now you know, there are also other three designs that require other work. And you might not see markings on the PICU, but you just have to read the instruction. Six shows a dress month that has a plaque at opening up the neck line. And fisheye dark. The inside work. Now here I've drawn somewhat of a map pointing out all edges that need to have work done. I think seeing it this way breaks it down in a way that could help you see each piece individually before they get joined to become on government. At that time, the longest scenes are joined together and clean finishing is required on them. Even know the inside work needs to be done before you join the pieces together at the side seams. They don't have to be done in any particular order. I will peek through a process that I go by. But you have some freedom as to what you choose to do. Dark path to be done before a patch pocket goes on a pant back. But a patch pocket on the front of a dress that isn't covering Dart can be done at anytime. The front hip pocket theme here require a couple of step before they can be joined together to make a p. The pocket facing is shown to the front and the pocket pieces then added behind it to complete a pocket. These steps have to be done before the front and back pan are joined together at the side seam as well. The zipper needs to be put on for any joining is done. 3. StayStitching: Hi there. I hope you'll print the PDF pattern sample and follow along. My samples, have a 1.5 inch or one centimeter seam allowance on all curved edges, such as neck lines, arm holes, and cleave head. So sold to stay stitching just inside that seam line. Set your stitch length to a short stitch, possibly two millimeters depending on your machine. I've marked the arrows on my example to show the direction is from the shoulder point to the middle on each side, I suggest you do the same. So that if you have to refer back to the sample at a later date, you'll see that. Why specifically so in that direction, reason is that sometimes the fabric can get a bit stretched just from sewing, especially on a curve. The purpose of stay stitching is to keep the shape of the neck line from getting stretched out, from over handling before you put a facing or a color on. It's also used to keep pieces together temporarily before they're joined to other pieces, such as darks after they're pressed. Please. Talk. Pocket facing and pocket piece on the front hip pocket of a pant with the stay stitching I've shown here on the bottom. It's important to do it as soon as possible after cutting out the piece. And that's as easy as it is. Today. Stitching is pretty standard. Mac. You think you know how to do a dark. Meet me in the next video where I show you the best way to fill a dark. 4. Couture Darts: Welcome to dark pleat can tuck. This first slide just shows what the PDF pampered look like in case you haven't printed it out to work from. Otherwise, I'm going to stick with the video explaining how to start from the beginning on a scrap piece of fabric and drawing your own line to make a dart. You the four inch by four inch piece of fabric. And let's start from there. Are you going to do is get a scrap piece of fabric. Like I say, any size really is fine. And we're going to draw a line in the middle. You can draw it in pen because then when you have your sample that you keep in your book, it'll always be there. So just draw a straight line from the top edge, 3.5 inches to the top, and then measure over half an inch. And market such as this half inch that way, half inch that way. And then join it to the bottom on each side. And then make a notch half an inch from the top, an inch from that, and an inch from the other. So half an inch. Make a dot here. These will give, give you the lines when you're going to fold it together. It gives you the folding. You're going to make this line match that one, right? So, so then an inch again, draw a circle or a notch, whatever. And then another inch down. Let's say It's just a guide. I'll show you how we bring the two outside lines to the middle. So now we take this and we fold it. What you do is you notch it. So you notch this arm and then watch this. And then you make sure the top that pair notches are matching each other. And then you fold along the center line. Don't have depress it with an iron or anything like that. Just going to fold it and then this precent. And then we're just going to, so from here to here, pattern tells you to so at the top and backstitch and then so all the way down and then backstitch again at the bottom. But you can't actually backstitch at the bottom because you're in you're in nowhere land. So to try to go back when there's really no fabric to backstitch on is it just doesn't work. So what we learned the French way tour way to do it is you just start at the beginning. And then you saw all the way off about ten stitches and then those two stitches, the tie each other up, they get all twisted. And you leave that length of about. An inch and a half long and just trim it off and then you'll see that their title, they're all tied up. So I'm going to show you darts are used to remove excess fabric from an area. It's a result of a difference in the width between the hip and the waste. It's a shaping method and it can be used anywhere. So we're going to use a regular stitch length of 2.5 and you start at the beginning, go three or four stitches, back stitch to the beginning. And then just so right on that line. All the way off. Ten stitches. Okay. I have an automatic cutter on my wonderful machine. Here's a good shot and that's it. You would just leave it like this. And it's really tightly woven together because that's what it does. It, if you go straight off that you don't get a little circle, a little bubble when you press the dart. See, it looks pretty good. You can tell right now that there's no bubble there, there and there is your Dart, easy as pie. Then we fold it towards the outside, which is the side seam. So I will press it now and show you how to press it properly. Here I have two pressing items. I think this one is used and I was, I inherited this from somebody. But I believe it's for getting inside of a sleeve and being able to press the seam inside a sleeve, you could use this or you could use the ham or regular ham. So what you're gonna do is take your Dart and if this is your side seam, going to pull this apart, your iron and you're going to press, remember the steam is what you want. Just going to press it, pull it apart, press it. Pull this over so you can get a nice press the bottom. Sing it up and down. Then when you turn it over, you'll see there's no little circle there. You get a nice line. You'll know if you don't do it right, because when you go to try it on, you'll see that it sticks out. So do just means to street near line, go back, straighten your line. And it's often caused because people tried to backstitch like your instructions, say out this place of no return. I mean, it's just impossible to try to backstitch. It kind of, I think gets a little stressful in a way that you're trying to backstitch. And you can't always get your needle back into this place because there's no room to do that. And so then you end up not getting the last part of the dart straight. Whereas that's why this method is so great because you just sew off, let all the stitches bind themselves together and you're done. Here we are. It's a beautiful, dark, beautiful. And then the final step, what your direction and your pattern will tell you to do, and that it can fit the dark gray. 5. Fisheye Darts: The first slide just shows what the PDF sample of the fisheye dark look like in case you haven't printed it out through work from. This is a fisheye Dart. If you look close, it looks like the two darts put together basically. And I'm going to show you how to do it. It removes excess around the waist of a garment, so goes from under the bus to just the waste and the hip. All right, let's do one. For the purpose of this video, I have drawn two darts that meet in the middle and then just going to fold that dart in the middle. I've done two of them side-by-side, so I can show you two different methods of solving them. The first way to do it is to do exactly the same way that you did the irregular dark. So you start somewhere in the middle backstitch and you just so all the way off till it ties itself up and then go back in. And wherever you started, backstitch again at the other end a bit. And then just so all the way off and the IRA threats and then cut them. So that's just the same way as a dart is done, right? And the second way is coming up. Okay. I'm going to put the needle in an inch and a half away from the point and start here. Just back stitch, a couple of stitches and then follow the dark lines. All right off. And then don't cut it, lift up your needle, pull it out. Even a little bit of slack there. Go in and then saw a few stitches. Back stitch, then cut it off and turn it around and then go back to where you started. Do the same thing on the other side. So all the way off the needle, pull it out to give yourself a bit of slack and just go in. This is about the distance it should be. The first one was a little bit too far away, just make it like an inch or so. And then you're done. So that's the actual couture technique of fisheye dark, which you won't see anywhere else. Yeah, see this one is I find that it's a little bit long, should have gone in here. I just pulled it out too much so I wouldn't do that. I do this, this one's much better. And then just cut off the thread. Don't cut the loop that you just cut the beginning ends that were tailing beginning and then leave that piece in there. And then press it. Then we're just going to press it the same way that we did with the other one and we'll press it towards the outside. So if that was the side seam, just press it. You have to kinda pull that access in order to get it that curve. You have to kind of make sure that without getting your hands, Bert students very hot. You have to press it. Press it down. Then. Do the other bots think it's going to be fun. Top stitch them because top stitching them leaps a whole different thing. So you could actually, so these on the outside, not if it was done like this, but if, if it was the first method like here, then you could take this thread in here, like this, right? And then peanut, pin this, the tip of that dark down and you could top stitch it all the way down there. All right, so here with this method you can't, because you'd have to disconnect it and it's not going to look right. So anyway, let's do that. I'm just going to pull this as I had said, I would and tuck it under here. Then top stitch it close as you can to the point. Pulling the pin out. Soon as you get in there, put your needle in. These things will come eventually with your competence that getting close to the edge like this, etcetera. I like to do both at the ways to pin. So close to the edge. Kinda pull the fabric so that you're not getting any tucks in there. All right. Looks pretty cool on the outside. Makes such a nice detail like I say, you can even do it on the outside of a garment. Makes a whole knee deep detail. When you dare to do it. You can see that. So over pins, you go very slowly. This is what it looks like on the outside. And if you'd like, you're like the artist, right? You're drawing something here. So you could just top stitch. And again, if you want, right beside the line that you're outlining it, like you, like you're drawing it with thread. You weren't doing a drawing. And I really like that. So then you would just press it? Yes, it would be really nice if you had if you did this on possibly a dark colored fabric like black and you wanted to outline it with a different color. It's the subclassing and beautiful. All right. See you in the next video. 6. Pleats and Tucks: Hi there. Welcome to the video on cleats and tucks. I will show you the way that pattern tells you how to do pleats. And then I will show you the couture technique that I learned about how to do plates. Let's get started. Cleats are basically folds in the fabric. First of all, take a piece of fabric That's a scrap and about six to seven inches wide approximately, and draw one line in the middle and measure one centimeter on each side of it twice so that you end up with a piece that looks like this. And it's got five lines on it. And all you're going to do is you're going to fold along the middle line and make it meet the center line. And they're going to fold along the other middle line and make it meet the center line. And you're going to press it, Peanut and stay stitch it. The inverted feet is what you'll end up with on the front. And a box pleat is what you will end up with on the back. And also crest and stay stitch at the top first or use the edge of my zipper foot as a guide. Pleats. And then so there's your notes already. So then when you put your waist band on or whatever it is you're going to do. It's secure while you're working and it's not going to come out. Well, you also could be asked, do a clique that is simple. One that we did in the beginning, right? Yeah, our six line. And you fold it in other way painting. Once you pin them, then you press them C, and then this would be another one. Let's say you get the idea that it's so easy, I've decided to just put in another plate there. So that's a basic plate, folds in the top and you could do as many as you like. Do yourself some samples, press them, makes a cute little skirt, and stay stitching. Now, this is the method that I'm going to talk about that is going to be different than a pattern. So you may have a pattern that asks you to sew down the line and then backstitch at the bottom. So we're going to do it the way the pattern tells you. And then I'm going to show you two methods. One is wrong and one is right. So this is also wrong. So two wrong methods. The way they tell you, well, the best way, a couture way that you will, you will see. So the pattern just may say backstitch at the beginning of the line. And go to the bottom, there may be a circle there or some indication. That's it. And then you backstage, that's what they're going to tell you to do. It's one line now the next way. Now with this way, I don't think that you'll ever be told to do this. But for some reason we were taught, it's another wrong way to do it. People may think that if you saw down, I've made a folder, right? So sewing about a centimeter from the edge. Backstitch again. When you get to the bottom of this line. Let's say you want your plate that long, then you would turn and you would go over to the edge and then backstitch. But that's now writing. But the way that I'm going to show you this way should do. I would like you to make a sample of these three ways too, so you can write your notes to yourself. That same wrong, wrong right? Now, you're gonna do the same thing. So the black stitching will be the same. Beginning more be the same. Then you're going to do when you get to the bottom, where the bottom of the pleat should be going to make a nice little curve. And when I press these, you'll see why. They're just do a nice honor code. Can lift up your foot. If not, then it goes straight off to the edge. You can back stitch. You have two ways that are not quite right. So the reason is that you're going to press these, most likely they're going to be pleats on the inside. You're going to press them down and you're going to stay stitch them at the top. So it's possible that there will be pressure on this piece. You can see already that it's at risk of coming out. And it's the same as this one because that's an end point and it's going to be putting pressure on there in case you, for some reason stretch it, right? But whereas this one, you can see that because we did a curve, there's really no pressure on that point there. I would say best-practice couture technique. That versus that says that using a scrap piece of fabric to make some talks. And you can see that I've already done two trucks here. And then these lines that are drawn, I'm going to show you how to do. For the rest of them. I would say that tucks are simple, but finicky. I never liked them when I was Well, I never really did them. A lot of times when you are required to do them, you're required to do them really close to each other, which I just got into that, that I find that kind of stressful because you're not easy to get super close to each other. But if they were like this where there are about an inch apart, all you're doing is sewing right beside the edge of the fabric. And it's actually not that hard. Well, the other two words, and I'll see, I'm going to do this one and then I think I'm going to change the thread for you so that it's a little easier to see are close to the edge. In case you're wondering why I have the green masking tape on my machine. It's just because the reflection of the camera on the silver creates a bit of an issue. So that's the only reason that's there. Let's do this with black on one side. I'll show you what paint on the other, on the bobbing threads. So these would be pressed one way or another. I would probably press them out and go did that in the first two. Let's talk about tucks. Tucks are made to create a texture on a fabric. You want to be careful and do it possibly on a solid color fabric and not on a very busy flowered fabric because already flowers are texture and this tux or texture. So you don't want boats. You don't want to textures fighting with each other for attention. But I really wanted to see I had a busy fabric close by, some, some print and I tested it out and did some tucks on them and then press them down. And it actually looks okay. They're far apart. But again, I'm not sure if your pattern would probably not ask you to do that. And it's probably, you can see these on white shirts and toxin or tucks are better on little children's piano force. You know, you'd see them in the olden days on a nice white shirt. A black shirt. Maybe I think they show up best on white myself, but probably will not be asked to get busy. Flowered fabric. That's tucks, easy, simple, challenging.