3D Modeling Furniture with SketchUp - Shaker Style Table | Bob Hoellwarth | Skillshare

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3D Modeling Furniture with SketchUp - Shaker Style Table

teacher avatar Bob Hoellwarth

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

9 Lessons (50m)
    • 1. 1 - Introduction

      1:04
    • 2. 2 - Setting up the SketchUp File

      0:43
    • 3. 3 - Modeling the Tabletop

      3:15
    • 4. 4 - Modeling the Legs

      7:07
    • 5. 5 - Modeling the Apron

      8:29
    • 6. 6 - Modeling the Joinery: Tenons

      10:49
    • 7. 7 - Modeling the Joinery: Mortises

      6:25
    • 8. 8 - Tapering the Legs

      4:01
    • 9. 9 - Making Woodworking Plans

      8:25
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About This Class

In this class I use SketchUp for 3D modeling a custom-sized Shaker style table, which uses mortise and tenon joints and provides a good example of the fundamentals of joinery and furniture design.

Things you'll learn in this class:

  • furniture design fundamentals
  • 3D modeling in SketchUp
  • mortise and tenon joinery
  • how to make woodworking plans

I use SketchUp 2020, but this lesson will work in all versions of the software.

A free version of SketchUp Make or a trial version of SketchUp can be downloaded here:

https://www.sketchup.com/download/make
https://www.sketchup.com/try-sketchup

Meet Your Teacher

Hello, I'm Bob Hoellwarth. I am a woodworking teacher and I make a lot of videos about woodworking. I have taught classes of adults in Woodworking I, Woodworking II, Joinery, and assisted in Building Classic Furniture.

I will be making videos on here primarily about woodworking and using SketchUp to design furniture and make plans.

See full profile

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Transcripts

1. 1 - Introduction: Hi there and welcome to my tutorial. My name is Bob and I've been a woodworking teacher at an adult ed school for a few years now, teaching basic classes as well as starting three of my own classes about joined r3, where I've taught 27 different joints to people and help them understand how those joints work and when to use them. I'm also a creator on YouTube under my channel, Bob's would stuff where I've made dozens of DIY woodworking, sharpening, and quick tips videos. This course is about how to design and build furniture in SketchUp specifically will be working with a shaker style end table. The shaker style is a very simple style that uses mortis intended joints. So the information in this tutorial will help you with all furniture design and show you how to make usable woodworking plans for yourself. Thanks for looking at my tutorial and I'll see you in the classroom. 2. 2 - Setting up the SketchUp File: First I'll start up the program. I'm using SketchUp Pro 2020, but these techniques will work in any version of SketchUp. The first thing that you'll see is the welcome screen for SketchUp. And I'll click on more templates in the upper right. Then I'll scroll down to woodworking inches. Now I have an empty file with nothing in it. I do have the Large Tool Set enabled, which I like to use. You can enable that by right-clicking on the left side and selecting Large Tool Set. If you're new to SketchUp or if you've just installed it, you might have the Getting Started tool set, which I've just enabled at the top. But I liked. 3. 3 - Modeling the Tabletop: The very first thing that I wanna do is mark out a general box for how big the table is going to be. If there's a table you've seen in a store or in someone else's house that you'd like to build, one at the same size. You can just measure the height, width, and depth with a measuring tape. Or if you have a space that you'd like to fill in your house, measure that with a measuring tape. My basic dimensions are written right here. I want to 27 tall by 24 inches wide by 18 inches deep. I'll select the Tape Measure tool and then click on the red axis and drag upwards along the blue axis, you'll see because the blue arrow appears and then I'll type 27 and hit enter. This gives me a line exactly 27 inches up from the base. I'll start by completing the top of the table, which will give me an object and make it easier to rotate around in 3D space. So I'll click on the first guide that I've created and move along the green axis, type in 24 and hit enter to create a guide for the back of the tabletop, a click on the green axis and move upwards along the blue axis and type 27 and hit Enter. And then I'll click on that guide and go along the red axis and type in 18, which I want to be the depth of the table. Now that I have this rectangle marked out, I can draw it with the Rectangle tool by clicking on this intersection and then clicking on the opposite intersection is going to be a lot easier to rotate the camera once there's an actual object. I don't like the gray background with the gray object, so I'll change the background color in my Styles Panel. I'll select Edit, and then go to the third one, which is background settings. And for background, I'll drag the slider up to white. And this is a lot easier to look at. At this point is a good idea to save your files so that you have a copy of this basic setup in case anything happens. I'll call this shaker end table. I want this table top to be seven eighths of an inch thick, which is a very common amount in woodworking because you'll buy lumber at four quarters or one inch thick and then you'll plane off a little bit. So you're left with seven eighths of an inch. So I'll select my rectangle by clicking on it, and then use the push pull tool. Click on one of these corners and drag it downwards. Then I'll type in seven divided by eight and hit Enter, which will extrude it along the blue axis by seven eighths of an inch. I'll triple click on this and make it a component so that future lines I draw won't interfere with this object. Right-click Make Component, and I'll call that tabletop. Now that I have the top created, I can delete these guides because I don't need them and they're just in the way. So I'll go to edit, delete guides, and I can begin drawing the legs. 4. 4 - Modeling the Legs: On a shaker style table, there's an overhang where the top goes past the legs. So i'm going to account for that now. I'll rotate my cameras so I'm under the table top. And I'll create some more guides that show where the legs are gonna go. So I'll use my tape measure tool and I'll click on the outside edge of the table top and drag it along the bottom of the tabletop by one-inch. I'll just type one and hit Enter. And I'll do the same thing from each side of the tabletop. Now will have a one-inch overhang on every side of the table. At this point, I need to determine how thick the legs are going to be. This could be dependent on what look you want or also based on what lumbered you have available. If I only have 1.5 inch or six quarter lumber available, I might just make it 1.5 inches. So using the Tape Measure tool, I'll click on this guide I've already created and go in by 1.5. You can also type in six divided by four. But I think 1.5 is the fastest way to type that in. And I'll do the same thing on all the sides. So click that type 1.5. Click that. Sometimes you might get a line like this that is not parallel depending on where you clicked it originally. I'm just going to undo that and click on a different part of the guide until I get a parallel line and then type in 1.5. And I'll do the same thing on the last side. So these squares indicate exactly where the legs are gonna go in relation to the top of the table. To make this model easier to look at, I'm going to color the tabletop green. So on the right side I'll scroll up to my materials panel. Go to colors, and find a nice green color. So now when I draw my next rectangle, there would be some contrast between the gray and the green instead of just grey on grey. Select the Rectangle tool. Click one of these intersections, and then go to the opposite intersection. And now I have a square. I'm only going to make one of these because the other ones will be a copy of this one. I don't need to draw them four times. Now I know that because my table is 27 inches tall and the top is seven eighths of an inch tall, that this leg is going to be 261 eighth inches long. I'll select that rectangle's fill by clicking on it. And then go to the push pull tool. Zoom out a little bit here, and click on one of these corners and start pulling it down. I can zoom in and out and adjust the camera angle while I'm still doing this operation, that can be very helpful while you're using SketchUp. So I'll hold Shift and then click my scroll wheel to drag things around. And also zoom out. I'll start dragging this down and see if it snaps to the ground. It is not snapping to the ground. So go ahead and type in 26 space, one divided by eight. Now in matches up with the ground and my table is going to be 27 inches tall total. Now I have the basic leg. I'll go ahead and make it a component because I'll be copying and for the other legs. So I'll Triple-click on that object, right-click Make Component and call it table leg. Then I'll color it blue. So it looks nice to make it more clear which direction this leg is rotated. I'm going to color two of the faces, a different color. So I'll go into my component, select this face, and then use this light yellow color. And I'll do the same thing on this phase here. These are the two interfaces and it will help me know which sides go on the inside of the table and which shines go on the outside of the table. Now I'll zoom in and move my camera under the table top because that's where the markings for the legs are. And I need to create a copy of this leg. I'll select a leg that I've made. Select the Move tool and hold down Control or Command, and click the corner. Once I've click the corner, I don't need to hold down control anymore because it's already created a copy and I'll just move it along this line here. Then I'll select the scale tool because I need to mirror this leg in order to have the inside face still on the inside. Right now I could only see the green dots on the top of the leg. So I'll zoom out, pan down until I can see the ones on the middle. This is the one that I'm looking for right here. I'll click that and drag it through itself. And then type in minus one on my keyboard and hit enter. This gives it an exact mirror image of the original object. And see here, I have the yellow faces on the inside on both of them. Now that I've done that, I can switch back to the Move tool and click either one of these corners. And then it will snap to my markings that I've already made. Now that I have two legs placed, I'll copy both of them, flipped them horizontally like I did before, and move them to the other side. So I'll use the Select tool, click one of them, hold Shift, Click the other one, and then use the Move tool. I'll hold down control again to create a copy. And drag that along this axis. Then switch back to the scale tool. And I'll click this middle box and then drag it through itself and type minus one. Now I have created copies of these legs and the yellow face is on the inside on all four of these legs does very important. Then I'll move these to match up with my markings. I'll go ahead and save the file. Now we can delete these guides since I don't need them anymore. Go to edit delete guides. This is the basic table with its legs. You can see the dimensions of it, but there's no Join R3, There's no apron. So the next step is to make the apron. 5. 5 - Modeling the Apron: I'll zoom in on the bottom of the table so I can see between two of the legs under the table top. I'll start by clicking on the top of one of the legs. And it looks like it wants to snap on the mid-point of the leg. That's fine. I'll click there and drag downward along the blue axis, type three and hit Enter. Now I have a marking for the top, bottom, and sides of this apron. So I'll go ahead and I'll draw a rectangle right there. I'll click the corner up here by the leg and then drag to the opposite corner. And now I have the basic apron. The rectangle has been created, but there's no depth to it. So I'll click on it and then rotate to the other side. And use the push pull tool to pull it in by seven eighths of an inch. Click on one of the corners and then just drag it along this axis. And I'll type in seven divided by eight and hit enter. Now I have an apron that is seven eighths of an inch thick. And that looks pretty nice, but it's not shaker style because there's no Reveal in relation to the leg. I'll go ahead and make this a component because it's already a solid piece and I don't want to mess with that. So I'll Triple-click on the apron piece and then right-click Make Component and call that the short apron. So this is what I was talking about about the Reveal. I want the leg to stick out farther than the apron. So I'll select the Move tool and then click one of the corners and move this along the axis. It's a little bit easier to snap to the axis if you move it farther than you need to. So I'm going to drag it way over here and see that green line appear. That means I'm right on the axis and I'll type in one divided by eight and hit Enter that moves at exactly 1 eighth of an inch, which leaves a nice reveal for the lake. Now it's looking like a shaker style table. I'll go ahead and give this apron piece of colors so it's a little bit easier to recognize. Nice orange color, be good. And I'll go inside the component by double-clicking on it and make the inside face a yellow color. So now you know which side is the inside face? I'll go out of the component by just clicking out of this bounding box here. And I'm back to the main screen. And I can make a copy of this and put it on the other side. So I'll click on it once and use the Move Tool, hold Control or Command and make a copy of this. You can see that depending on where your camera is, it might try to put this copy somewhere else. So I'm going to rotate it and make sure it snaps onto this axis. And place the copyright there. Then I need to flip it horizontally again so that the inside face is still facing the inside. Some components to it doesn't matter depending on your design, but I think it's a good practice in general, so that if you do make a change that will affect it, it's already going to work. You don't have to go back and flip it later. So I'll select the scale tool, grab this middle block and pull it through itself and type minus1. Hit Enter. Then I can use the move tool to snap this to the corner of the leg. And like the other one, I need to move it back the other way by 1 eighth of an inch. So I'll click it with the Move tool. And then I'll type in one divided by eight and hit enter. Now I have that same reveal on both sides. So as I'm looking at it, I can tell that the apron looks a little bit thin. It might not be as strong as I want it to be. So I'll go inside that component and push it down by one inch so it's four inches stick. I'll just zoom in on the component right here. I'll delete this guide to using my eraser tool because I don't need it anymore. Double-click on this apron piece and then rotate under it so I can select the bottom and use the push pull tool to move it down by one inch. Just type one enter. Now I have a four-inch apron instead of a three inch apron. And that looks a lot better. It's going to be much stronger. And I think that's pretty much where I want to be. Now that I have both apron pieces attached, I can go ahead and make the long apron pieces. And the easiest way will be for me to just duplicate one of these ones. So I'll zoom in on this apron piece here. And then I'll select it and use the Move tool and hold down control. And just make a copy of that. Then I'll need to rotate it by 90 degrees. So I'll move the camera to beneath it, which will make it a lot easier to rotate. And then select the rotate tool. Click on the corner here. And then a little bit farther down. And I'll rotate this. And if it doesn't snap to 90 degrees, just type in 90 and hit enter and it'll make it exactly 90 degrees. Then I'll move this so that it lines up with one of these legs. And you can see that it's not as long as it needs to be. So what I'll do is I'll right-click on it and select make unique. With that, we'll do is I'll make a copy of the original component that is now a new component with its own name. That way, if I edit it, it does not change the existing apron pieces already in the model. I'll give this component its own name in the Components panel here. I can click on it and see that it says short apron number one. I'll change that to long apron. And then double-click on it to go and edit it. Now that it's already lined up with this one leg, all I need to do is push pull it so it matches up with the other leg. So I'll rotate it so I can see this face. Select that end there and push, pull to snap on the leg. Then I can click outside of the bounding box to get back to the main area. And I still need to move this by 1 eighth of an inch so that it is offset from the leg. So I'll do that right now. Select it and then use the Move tool and as snapping to 1 eighth automatically. So I'll just use that. And then while still on the Move Tool, I'll make a copy of this by holding down Control or Command and then dragging it to the right. And like all the other ones, I'm going to flip this horizontally before putting it in place. So I'll zoom out a bit and select the scale tool and grab this middle one and type minus one, hit Enter. Then I can use the move tool to place this apron piece right up against the edge of the leg and then move it by 1 eighth of an inch. Now that I have the legs and the top and the apron modeled, this is essentially an entire shaker style table, except for the fact that the legs are not tapered yet. I'll do that last because when you're making a table, specifically in real life out of wood, you would want to do all the Joiner R3 before adding the taper to the legs. 6. 6 - Modeling the Joinery: Tenons: Now that the basic structure is built a need to model the joint R3. This is going to use mortis and tenon joints, which is the most common joint in furniture, and the one used in Shaker style to model the joints, I'll need to see inside of each object. So I'll scroll down and go to my Styles panel, select edge Settings, and click the box for back edges. Now you can see there are dotted lines on all the back edges. And I can see through the objects. Since I don't need to do anything else with the top right now, I'm going to hide that to get it out of the way. I'll click it and then right-click and hide. Don't worry, I can always bring it back later. So now what I need to do is figure out where the tendons go, where the Mortis is go and put those into my model. I know that the legs are 1.5 inches thick and when you're making a mortis into something, it shouldn't be more than 1 third the width of the thing you're going into. So that means that my tenon can only be 1.5 of an inch thick. So I'll zoom in on my apron piece and make a tenant that is 1.5 of an inch thick. I'll double-click to edit that component. I want the tenant to be on the center of the apron piece. So I'll take my tape measure tool and I'll put it on the edge of the apron piece, bring a line in. And on the end of it here, I can make sure that it snaps to this center, which is seven sixteenths of an inch. And now I have a line marking the exact center of the apron peace. And to make a tenon, 1.5 of an inch thick, all I need to do is go a quarter inch on either side of this line. So using the Tape Measure tool, I'll click on that line and then go one quarter of an inch to the side. I'll just type in 0.25. And then on the other side, I'll type in 0.25, and that will tell me exactly where the tenant goes. I'll click outside of the bounding box for this component, and then I'll hide this leg so I can see it a little bit better. And then edit that component again. And I'll bring these lines down. So I'll click on the intersection with my tape measure tool. Bring a line straight down. Same thing here. Bring a line straight down. And this marks the width of the tenon that'll go on the apron piece. Now I need to figure out how far from the bottom of the piece and how far from the top of the piece, I'd like to make this tenon. I'll start by clicking on somewhere on the line. I don't want to click on one of these intersections because then I'll have a line coming down. I want a line parallel to the top of this. So I'll click on one of these edge points that's not on an intersection, and it'll create a parallel line with that top-line. I'll zoom out to get a better view of this apron piece. And then it looks like about a half an inch is a good amount. So I'll, while this is snapping to the blue axis, I'll type 0.5 and hit enter. And from the bottom, I'll do the same thing. I'll click on this midpoint and drag it up along the blue axis, type in 0.5 and hit enter. And that middle section is where my ten n is going to be. I'll take the rectangle tool and I'll click on one of these intersections and then click on the other intersection, create a rectangle right there. Now I have my ten and marked out and I can push pull that to get it to extrude into the leg. So I'll click that rectangle to select it. Use the push pull tool. And I'll bring it out by three-quarters of an inch. I'll type in 0.75 enter. That looks like a bit too much right now, because if the other tenant is coming out the same amount, it's going to hit that tenon. So I will undo that and I'll bring this tenant out by half an inch. Instead. Click on that, and then push, pull and type in 0.5 enter. Now it looks like when I bring out the tendon on the other apron piece, it's not going to collide with it. There are several ways to get around this. You can make the tenons monitored at a 45 degree angle and have them share the same L-shaped Mortis is one of the options. But as far as basic, join a R3 and mortis and tendons go. You want the tenants to be short enough that they don't hit each other. Now that I have that tendon built, I could do the one on the other side. So I will change my camera angle, zoom out, get to the other side of this. Click outside of the bounding box, and then hide this leg piece. And I can make my tenant on the other end. So I'll double-click on that to get inside the component and draw a line with my tape measure down from both sides. And then on the edge here, I'll make a line half an inch from the edge and half an inch from that edge. And I'll draw my rectangle. Then I'll select that Phil and use the push pull tool to extrude it by half an inch, typing 0.5 and hitting Enter. Now you can see the final dimensions and the scenery of this apron piece. It has tendons on both sides and those will go into the lakes. If I zoom out, I can see that the other apron piece. Has those tendons already built in because it is a copy that is flipped horizontally of that first apron piece. The long apron pieces do not have that tendon yet because they're a different component. So I'll go ahead and I'll make those tendons on the long apron pieces. I'll start by hiding the remaining two legs, which should make things a bit easier. So I'll click on the leg, right-click Hide. Click on that leg. Right-click Hide is starting to look rather confusing with all of these guides. So I'm just going to delete all the guides. I'll go up to edit delete guides and it's a lot easier to process now. So I'll double-click on one of the long apron pieces to get into that component. And then I'll use my tape measure tool to make a line on the end, right in the middle. I'll click on the edge and then I'll bring it in and reference that TOP point. So it makes it right in the middle. And then referencing this line, algo, 0.25 to one side and 0.25 to the other side. Then from that top edge, I'll come down half an inch. From that bottom, come up half an inch. Now I have the dimensions of my tenants so I can draw a rectangle from this intersection to this intersection, select the fill of that rectangle and push, pull it outward by 0.5 inches, half an inch. And I can see that it's not going to hit that other tenon, which is what I'm looking for. Longer tendons are much stronger, but there's not going to be a lot of downward force on this because the legs will be absorbing a lot of that. So I'll zoom out and move the camera to the other side of this component. So I can make the other tenon use the Tape Measure tool to make a marking in the middle. And then from that marking go 0.251 side, point to five to the other side. You can see that I'm pulling it way off of here, but sometimes that is easier to stay on the axis. If you pull it farther, it's more likely to snap on that axis. Hit enter. And then I'll make them markings from this edge. Once again, don't put it on the intersection because you'll get a line like this. You want to put it on one of these areas between the intersections and click. And then you'll have a parallel line. I'll type 0.5. and from the bottom, same thing. If it's hard to click an area between the intersections, you can zoom in, and that'll give you more space to click between them. Click on that and pull it up along the blue axis by 0.5 inches. Now I can draw a rectangle for that tenon. Select the Rectangle tool, and then select that Phil and push, pull it outward by half an inch, type 0.5 enter. Then I'll click outside of that bounding box to go back to the main screen. And I have a lot of guides. I'm gonna delete them, so I'll go to edit delete guides. Now you can see all the joints for all the apron pieces. They all have ten end sticking out. It's real nice. So I'll go to Edit unhide all. And then I'll rehired that table top. And you can see how it will fit into the legs. 7. 7 - Modeling the Joinery: Mortises: The problem is that the legs don't have a mortis yet. There's still a solid piece. So what I need to do is make that Mortis in the legs on the exact spot that these tendons are going in. The good news is I only have to do that on one leg because it's a component and it's copied. So it'll automatically do that on all the other legs. I'll edit the lake component by double-clicking on any one of the lakes. Now I'm inside this leg component and I can use the tenons that it's connected to draw my rectangle. And it's a little bit hard to see, but if you look very closely, you can see the dotted lines that are making that tenon. And I can use that to draw my rectangle. I'll select the Rectangle tool and I'll kind of rotate this around to make sure that I'm choosing the right point. I don't want to choose the end of the ten n. I want to choose the base of the tenon. This point right here is one of the edges of the tenon. So I'll click there. And I can zoom around until I see the other side of the tenon. And this part right here is the bottom part of the tenant base. You'd see that rectangle is a lot easier to see than the tenant itself was. But that is exactly what I need because that can be really hard to see. I'll show you an alternate way of doing it that'll make it easier to see where to draw that mortis. So I'll click outside of the bounding box to go back to the main screen. I'll make some guides that show me where that tenant is. They make it a little bit easier to see. So I'll select my leg, right-click and hide the leg. And then on this ten and on the right, which I don't have a mortis for yet, I'll select the Tape Measure tool. And on the midpoint, I'll select that, drag it up and I'll hit 0 and hit enter. That will put it directly on that line that I just selected. And on this side one I'll do the same thing. I'll click on that line, drag it out, hit 0, enter, and then move my camera. Same thing on the bottom, 0. And then same thing on this inside part. If this other tendon is getting in the way, you can just hide that as well. And go back to the Tape Measure tool. Click on this line and hit 0. So now I have these measurements that will be easy to see when I'm in my Component. And I'll go to Edit, unhide all, hide the tabletop again. And I can hide this apron piece. And then when I double-click on that leg again to edit the component, I have those guides visible. And I can use those guides to draw a rectangle from this intersection. To this intersection. If it's hard to tell which intersection you're going for, you can rotate the model that makes it more obvious. And this is where my mortars is gonna go. I'll click outside of the bounding box for the component, which will take me back to the main screen and I'll hide this apron as well. Go edit, delete guides. I don't need those anymore. I can see on the leg piece that I have the Mortis is drawn out, but they're not inset yet. So what I need to do is edit the component. Click on this mortis and push pull tool inward by 0.5 inches. And on the other one, I'll do the same thing. I'll click on the face and then push, pull it in by half an inch. You can see that there are more doses and they will match up exactly with those tenons. But an important thing that you should be doing when you're designing furniture or making furniture is that the Mortis is needed to be about a 16th of an inch deeper than the tenons. This ensures that the ten and goes all the way in, all the way to the shoulder, even if there's a little bit of saw dust inside of that mortis, and it's important to have some space for your glue to go. So what I'll do to make some space for that is I'll click the back face of this mortis on the inside. And I'll use the push pull tool to push that. One divided by 16 in, that's 1 16th of an inch. And I'll do that on the other Mortis as well. Click the face, push pull tool. One divided by 16. So that Mortis is actually nine sixteenths of an inch deep, even though the ten n is only eight sixteenths are 1.5. I'll click outside the bounding box to go back to my main screen. And I'll hide this one as well. And I'll hide this other apron. And you can see that all four of the legs now have these is because it's just a copy of the other legs. I'll go up to Edit unhide all. And I can see the tenon inside the mortis with a little bit of extra space. Another view that helps illustrate this is the x-ray view. So I'll go to my Styles panel and in face settings, which is the second one. I'll click X-ray. At this point back edges doesn't matter because it's not showing those anymore. It's showing the x-ray view instead, this can be really good if you're publishing an animation from your file. Or you just need to show somebody what all the Joiner R3 looks like. 8. 8 - Tapering the Legs: At this point, I've modeled the whole shaker style table with all the joy theory, except I need to taper the legs to really get that shaker style. On shaker style furniture, the legs are tapered on to size. So I will turn off x-ray view and I'll edit one of the components for the lake. What I want is for the leg to start tapering just a few inches below that apron piece. So I'll zoom in here. And then on the face where the apron connects to, I will take my tape measure tool. And on the center of this apron piece click and then go down by zooming out now so I can see in relation to the table what this will look like. This is about three inches below the apron piece. And I think that looks pretty nice. So I'll type in three and hit Enter because I want it to be a whole number, not 60 fourths or something like that. And then I'll zoom in and I'll rotate to get that line on the other inside face of that leg as well. I'll click this intersection and just bring this line over. What I also want to do is make some lines on the bottom of the lake. So I'll rotate my camera and I'll determine what size exactly I want the bottom of this leg and see it's 1.5 inches. So I'll From the outside face OWL go in by one inch, type one and hit enter. And then from this outside face, I'll click it, go in by one inch. And this is what the bottom of my table will look like. So now I can just draw a line from this intersection to the top intersection. I'll use my pencil tool and click the intersection right here. And then I'll zoom out and pan a little bit so that I can see this other intersection clearly. And click that. Now I can select this face that I've created and push, pull it all the way to the edge of the leg, which will delete the rest of the leg and just slice off that part. So now I have one side tapered and I need to taper it on two sites. I think that the easiest way to do this will be to go up to that part where I've just made a line from that push pull that I've done. I've created a line here which is the end of that face. I'll make another line that intersects with that. So I'll use the pencil tool, click on that endpoint, and then go to here. I'll deselect that line that is currently selected. And I'll zoom over to the bottom of the leg. And I'll just select this line right here. And I'll use the move tool to snap it. That guide that I've made. So now I have legs that are tapered on two sides and they look a lot more elegant and they follow that shakers style. I'll go to edit delete guides because I don't need those anymore. And you can see what the table looks like with all the shapes and all the joint R3. This is a classic shaker style table. You can make it more complex by adding a drawer to it. But for the purposes of this tutorial, we're just making a table without a drawer. And it can be viewed in x-ray mode to really see what all the joint R3 looks like. 9. 9 - Making Woodworking Plans: Now you might be saying, geez Bob, that looks great, but how do I make it in the real world? You can do that by using dimensions on your pieces. What I'll do is I'll zoom out and select the whole table. Then use the Move tool and hold down Control or Command and create a copy of this table further along one of the axes. I'll go along the green axis, since that seems to be pretty easy. I'll also save my file. And I'll make another copy of this table. And it'll delete everything except for the top. Now rotate this top in a way that I would like to see it if I were following plans. So I'll zoom in, rotate it so you can see the dimensions a little bit better. And I'll use the dimension tool to add some measurements to this. So I'll click the dimension tool, click on one of these endpoints and the opposite end point. And then I can see that that is 24 inches. Do the same thing on another side. I have 18 inches. And then for the purposes of woodworking plans, you also need to know how thick it is. So click on one of those points, click on another one and bring that out. And I can see that it's seven eighths of an inch thick. So this would be all the plans that I need for the top, I'll go to my scenes panel and create a new scene for this. I'll save as a new style. And then I'll name this scene tabletop. I'll also zoom out and make a scene for the whole table because that's important to see as well. I'll center the table in the camera and I'll create a new scene for that called whole table. Then with this up arrow, I can move that scene before the other scene. And using these tabs on the top left, I can switch from whole table to tabletop. Now I'll create another one for the apron piece. I'll go ahead and make another copy of this table so that I don't lose the other pieces when I delete them. Now I'll delete everything except for the front apron piece. And I'll zoom in on that April piece. And I can start adding measurements to this. Select the dimension tool, and find out the important measurements, which are the length, the length of the tenants, the height, and also the depth. And I know because the tendons are half an inch each, that the piece will initially need to be cut to 20 inches and then the shoulders will need to be cut. A half-inch off of the edge. And before I changed my camera view, I'll click Add Scene again. And I'll call this front Apron. Now that I've made that, I won't do the site apron because you can see how that's done. It's the same way, same method. I'll do one of the legs instead. So I'll go to this copy that I have of the table and I will delete everything except for the leg. So the leg probably will print a little bit better if I rotate it. So I'll select this leg, go to my Rotate tool, select the center of rotation, which will be the corner, and then drag it down a little bit and click on the leg. Then I'll rotate it by 90 degrees. Just type in 90 and hit enter. Okay. And I can zoom out so I can see the whole leg. And I actually want to reference this from the face that doesn't have the taper on it. So I can see the dimensions a little bit better. So I'll rotate my camera around to the flat side. And I'll mark some dimensions on this lake. I know that the lake needs to be 261 eighth inches and is 1.5 by 1.5 and that the bottom will be one inch by one inch. These are all important dimensions to know. So I'll go ahead and make a scene just for that. Call it league dimensions. And then I will copy this leg and make a new scene for the mortis dimensions. And just drag that down my green axis. So I'll zoom in specifically on the mortis for this part and add a scene. Call that leg mortis. And I try not to mark more dimensions than I need to in a scene. I already have the size of the leg, which is 1.5 inch by 1.5 inch. So I don't need to mark that on this one. What I do need a mark is how far from the top this Mortis is. And you notice there's nothing for it to snap to. So it's really hard to draw my dimension. The way that I'll do that is creating a line that's temporary. So I'll draw a line with my pencil tool from this corner to the top there. Then I can reference that as I'm using the dimension tool and it will snap to that point. Then I can go back and delete that line afterwards. It's a little bit of a hack, but that's just the way it works. So I know that that needs to be a half-inch off at the top. I'll do the same thing for the other side. Draw a line with my pencil tool. Mark that dimension. The arrows are kind of getting in the way right now. So what I'm going to do is change the way that the dimensions are displayed. I'll go to Window, model info dimensions and change the endpoints to none. Select all dimensions, and then update selected dimensions. That gets those arrows out of the way. And now I can see the numbers a lot more clearly. And I'll go ahead and delete that temporary Line. And I also need to know how far down it goes. And it goes three inches down. It might be a little more clear if I move this half edge to the other side, which means off to redraw that line. Unfortunately. Delete this one and I'll add a dimension there. Okay, that's a lot easier to see. And another important dimension is that the mortars is half an inch wide. And I can go ahead and delete that line. So that should give you the main dimensions that you need when trying to make this leg mortis in-person out of wood. I'll right-click and update seem because I've changed the camera positioning a little bit. And now I can go to any of these scenes and see what the table looks like. I'll update this one so that it saves it in x-ray view. Right-click and update scene. And I can switch to tabletop, front apron. Leg dimensions. There would also be one foresight apron as well and Leg Morris. So those are the basics that you need to know about making furniture in SketchUp, specifically a shaker style table. But in general, these techniques will help you make any furniture that uses more dozen tenants, which is almost all furniture. Thank you so much for choosing Bob's would stuff and watching my tutorials, make sure to check me out on YouTube and Instagram, and watched my other tutorials on skill share. Have a great day. Bye.