3-What Sewing Patterns Don't Tell you! | Marcy Newman | Skillshare

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3-What Sewing Patterns Don't Tell you!

teacher avatar Marcy Newman, SewwwMuchMore!

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

7 Lessons (26m)
    • 1. Introduction

    • 2. Reasons to test the Pattern

    • 3. Where to test the Pattern

    • 4. 3 ways to do a Muslin

    • 5. How to test the Pattern

    • 6. How to test Part 2

    • 7. Conclusion

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About This Class

Wait! Don't cut those pieces out before you Test your Pattern! How do you know it's going to fit? Sewing Patterns don't tell you how important it is to make a Muslin. Let me show you how simple it really is. Quick and Dirty!

Meet Your Teacher

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Marcy Newman



My mother taught me to sew at an early age followed by high school sewing, but after years I still struggled with certain tasks. When a friend told me about a Fashion Design Program my desire was to become a confident Sewer.  After I graduated I taught for many years at Night School classes where I applied the unique method I learned. The feedback from students was always positive. My philosophy is that Organization is key in life. Because of my broad understanding of the process beginning with the Design, followed by Pattern development, my classes all include parts of these and are organized to help Sewers of all ages and experience. 

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1. Introduction: Hi there. Now that you've learned all about your point, your feet. And you understand what to expect when you purchase a pattern. And you have even gone through the video that talks about how the pattern pieces are developed. And you feed my fourth video where you've learned that after you cut out your fashion fabric, the first step car that you're going to take. Women, it be a shame if you ironed all of your pieces, you pin them on your fashion fabric and you cut them out, ready to go, and you try it on your garment and it doesn't fit you. That's just the first reason why it's really important to test your pattern. It's called making a Muslim because we use muslin fabric, which is an unbelief cotton to do the test. First, let's talk about what it is and what it cannot. So let's get started. 2. Reasons to test the Pattern: It's really important to test your pattern. It doesn't have to be a labor-intensive process, but it may take a little bit longer depending on the shape of your figure and the unique curve that you may find you have. It is not a waste of time or money, but what it is is a sure fire way to ensure that any issues you might have with fitting will be worked out in a fabric very quickly without wasting that fashion fabric that you purchase. That cost you a lot more money. It actually saves you money, time and a lot of stress. Another reason to test your pattern is that when you purchase a pattern that's manufactured, it is not accustomed fit pattern for your body. Every single body is so unique and special and you're not a fit model. That is a perfect size, eight or ten that they use to create these patterns from. So you will find that your boobs don't lie in the same place as that fit model, don't do. It could be that you've had an injury and one of your shoulders now float differently than the other one does your hip may be higher or lower than the other one is a great learning experience about your body. No judging, just learning, you may have a beautiful booty that the pattern has no room for Ha ha, their law. You will have to make adjustment to make sure that it fits your beautiful duty well. And the third reason why it's really important to test your pattern before you cut your fashion fabric is that you'll be creating a pattern that you can use again and again. It will be a reliable pattern that fits your body. Now meet me in the next part where I talk about where we're going to test the pattern. See you there. 3. Where to test the Pattern: Before we talk about how we'll be doing the Muslim, we have to talk about which portions need to be tested. How do you know? This is going to become a learned process for each person individually, depending on what you're about to learn about your body. But we've all spent our lives trying on clothes, which has already revealed a lot of information about fitting issue that probably we weren't even aware of. Personally. I know that the portions I need to test our my bust, waist and hip. I don't need to test the length. I now take another garment can use as a guide for the length or I estimate the approximate length and cutting off the determinant later. Even on my sleep, I will use a different fleas pattern for length or cut long enough to determine it at the end. In the next four slides, I've circled which parts should be tested. Let me explain. Slide number one. I would say that basically the whole top portion needs to be tested. But specifically, you want to know how is the neckline on me? Do I need to change it? By the way, I was taught that when testing a pattern, you should wear the same bra that you will where with the garment. That's especially important if it's a form fitting design and for a special occasion outfit like your wedding dress. Otherwise, this pattern isn't formed fitting, so you could probably get away with not doing it. Next. Where does the skirt start? Do I wanted higher on me or lower? Are you long wasted or short wasted? It's possible there is a measurement provided on the pattern that tells you the length of this bottom on this pattern from the neck to the bottom of the top portion. If there is a measurement, where do I take that measurement? On my body? If the pattern says back, broadest measurement, it means from the first bone in your neck, the C7, to your waist. If it gives you a measurement that you don't know what it is or what it means. You can always Google it and find out, for example, where is the way it's going to lie somewhere different on every person. But really, they say that the measurement will be found at the smallest place in the middle. That's where it is. Could be higher on me or lower on you. Who knows? Wherever the smallest area is. That's the wave. Slide number 2 is very much the same as slide number one. All of the upper portion of the dress, it needs to be tested, cleave how low the v will be. The wave is always a good idea to have somebody help you measure when you're checking the length. Slide number 3 shows that I circled the hip, the upper part where the neck is, and the way you would want to check that the underarms are not too high or too low. And you'd want to make sure that the that you like the neck line, you like the look of a square neck line on you. And my discover you don't even know it looks great on them. You might find that you just don't like it or maybe you want to raise it a little bit, change the actual shape. Number four, I circled the whole upper part because the bottom is baggy. So therefore, you don't have to really worry so much about that. So I would do almost to exactly where the circle is at the bottom. You do a little bit of the dark and disuse, see if you can get the look of what it would be like in a longer version and you'd check the neck. You would check the three. Just one sleep is necessary. You'd never have to in a muslin due to sleep. This again, looks like a garment that's got quite a low neck. It's low enough that I don't think there's an opening in the back. I can't quite tell, but it looks like it goes right over her head. So you would want to make sure that where it's going to sit on your shoulders. If you want to pull it in a little bit more, if you can get away with getting it over your head by doing that. And so it's pretty straightforward. If it's a stretchy fabric, it could look like it's almost a jersey. And you want to try to get, maybe when you go to a fabric store, get a fabric that's really, really ugly, cheap Jersey. Like it has the same body that you want to make the finished garment out of. But maybe it's cheaper because it really older. It's just ugly or or some maybe it sat on the shelf too long. So now it's on sale. I've included a couple of slides where I'm explaining what the pattern pieces are that you'll most likely be choosing to tax. So for top from blouses not drawn a red line across it with the explanation to test it above that line, you can include the waste if you want to make sure that it's going to fit you around the waist. You could do that. You also want to test this the just about where it would be from, a short sleeve length and then the skirt, as long as you're over the hip square, that biggest part of your body is, then you would test above that line. And if it's a flared skirt, but you want to really know what it looks like. You could do the whole thing. And with pants, you could choose that length and test it from that part up. And I included the pleated pants, which are a rare thing nowadays, but it seems they're coming back and style a little bit. And you would want to possibly see how big the pleats are or what they look like on you. So I just included that. And in this last slide, I'm talking about dresses and bonuses, particularly the princess line dress, cop, the princess line which is right in the middle. Thus in a short cop, you always want to check the princess line top in dress, which is on the right to make sure that it's going to go right over your boss perfectly. And of course, the sleeve in the short version with the dress that would be the same. You kinda wanna do the top part to the, wherever the largest part of your body is so that you can get an idea for that. Now meet me in the next video where I talk about the three ways of doing a Muslim. See you there. 4. 3 ways to do a Muslin: There are three ways you can do a marksman. Number one, you can cut out the portion you you want to test from the muslin fabric. I'm just showing you here the Muslim fabric. You can see it on bleached cotton. And trying to crinkle it and do a close up here to let, to see what it really looks like. Once you've seen it, you won't forget it because it's very distinct, but it does come in different weights. So you want to really test it out, make sure it's somewhat flexible. Not tooth gift. Unless you're testing for a jacket, something heavy, then you would get a heavier muslin. Second way is to use an old sheep that is in good condition. I have an old video that I did right here that I'm showing you. Where are we preparing to fold an old sheet and test out a garment in that? The third way is to cut out a real garment. So here I'm going to show you an example of a jacket that I'm working on. I really want to make it album men and fabrics, but I had an inexpensive black cotton that I hadn't used in a long time. So I thought maybe I'll just make it out of the black so that I can save the linen. So I can work out the things that I need to work out in the black fabric. I am showing you that I tested it and I discovered that I had cut it way too long because I really just want a quite a short little jacket for the summer. And so I've just folded it and pinned it to get the real length of what is going to be. And then at the back it's going to be a little bit longer. So I may put a fisheye dark in there just to give it some shape and keep it kind of close to the body. But for the moment on just making sure where it's going to lie past my weight. And I just want to add that the third way is going to be more feasible once you've learned what adjustment regularly need testing according to your learning experience. This cute little dress is a Muslim that Trish made from a secondhand sheep. Tricia has been building a handmade wardrobe by refashioning garment and using secondhand materials. She shares tutorials on her blog and Instagram. Trish ditched, she's worth following for inspiration. Isn't it? Adorable? Meet me in the next section where I discuss this step-by-step process on how we're going to start doing a Muslim. 5. How to test the Pattern: It's going to be a bit challenging. Puppets the truth, without the assistance of a friend or a draft form. If you have an opening in the back forth girt, you might be able to pull it up to your waist, turn it to the front peanut, and turn it back and pull it back down and then check it on a bought us or address. You'll need help. If you have a similar garment in your wardrobe, you can pull that out and measure the backwards to compare it. But it is definitely the best help to have a dress form that is really close to your own side. This is an image of a recent pattern that I bought that it's made out of a heavy white paper. And I'm showing you the color coding that they used, which is really helpful and that you will not see on a tissue pattern that you buy. So if you're going to use method 1 or 2 using muslin fabric or an old sheet to start with your muslin, you will prepare your pieces. You've decided now which pieces that you need to test. So you will take those and just press them lightly with an iron so that there are no wrinkles or anything in them. Because you're about to test your pattern. You don't really know which size is going to fit you. You want to preserve the cutting line. Instead, you want to mark the line. You're going to cut on with a pen or washable marker. But even better would be using the tracing paper after determining which marking need to be transferred to the piece that you're going to test. For example, the dark needed to be done. You can use the tracing wheel and the carbon paper to transfer them to the Muslim. Now that you've made any essential marking from the pieces are going to test and you've cut out the portions of the pieces being tested. Turn the dial on your sewing machine to a basting stitch. Along with it, put in the dark, the pleat, any POC needed for the design. If you're working on a body. So the shoulder seams together and the side seam, if you're working on a skirt or pants. So together the side seam, leaving space for wherever the opening will be. So the twill tape to the top of any pants or skirt that you're going to pass. Let me explain about the twill tape. Okay. So one of the most important things is that you have to take a piece of twill tape that's about a centimeter wide. If you're going to try on a Muslim pant skirt or the finished skirt or pants that you cut out already in sewn up. You've just going to measure the waist line x0. So exactly at the line where it meets chopped up, she's off. And then so this right onto the top of the seam line or the real pants or skirt. The idea is that if you have cut out a piece of twill tape and connected it to the skirt or the pants that you're going to try on. There's no chance that the skirt or pants will fall down off waste and give you a very incorrect reading about where the shape of the ship is, right? So it's a stabilizer and it's very important. Now we're ready to actually try the garment on either the draft form or are felt and see what the adjustments are and how to make the adjustment for you. In the next part. 6. How to test Part 2: Now that the twill is on the top of the garment, you can pin it on the dress form or get someone to help you pin it on yourself. And after you're happy with the pin, before you remove the pen, you're going to have who you're here, marker of some kind, who mark where the pins are. And then when you pick it off, you'll have to draw where ago one prepared their decided and print hurdled Martin who pattern. I'm just going to mark it right now where the pins are. And I would remove the pins. So as long as the edges are matching, then this one line will be enough to be able to sew it together. So then if you decide that the pattern is great, then you can actually just rip the pieces apart and use them as the correct pattern piece instead of the paper pattern piece. But you have to take them apart anyway because you're going to transfer the markings. So you have to take apart the Muslim to make the changes to the pattern. And so you can just rip it like this. It's an along stitch, rib all the pieces apart and then transfer the markings to the pattern piece. I just wanted to also remind you that the twill tape that we put on the top of the skirt should now be removed so you could take it from the muslin and when you cut your skirt out or your pants, you can put it on the real garment when you try it on, because it's done in a long stitch, It's eat should be easy to take it out, break one stitch about every 10 stitches on one side of the sewing. And then that loosens it on the back and then you can just pull the whole thing off. That's a very quick way to take out anything. You have that severity long seam, you can also write on it. So the idea would be you could put the date on it and say when you used it, et cetera, because and then you want to keep it somewhere where you'll be able to use it again so because it fits your waste. The other thing I was thinking that's really important is that let's say you're making a pair of pants or a skirt that's a little bit lower on the hips. Then I would measure with this twill tape again wherever the top of that skirt is going to be. So instead of it being right around the waist, if it's an inch or two below the waist, then measure that and use that as an anchor when you're trying on your muslin and your real garment as well, because it'll keep your hip line where it should be and prevent it from falling down and giving you a false reading. I'll discuss a few last details in the next part with his the conclusion here, there. 7. Conclusion: Now that you have determined the new sewing line on the Muslim, you have to take apart all the pieces and remove the basting stitches from the dark and other parts that you put in such as tuck or pleat and iron the piece of flat. Then you take the Muslim Pete and using it as a guide, you transfer the new information to the pattern or you make a new piece in brown paper. Make sure you remember, as I point out in the slide above, that the sewing line requires a new cutting line, which is 5, 8, 17 to wait, remember to change any notches if it's necessary on the princess line, which I'm showing in this slide. It's especially important that the notches match over the curve of your buck. If you want to make sure they will match, you can take the measuring tape on its edge from the top to the first notch and measure what that is. And check it on the other piece to make sure that it matches. And you can do that all the way down between the notches to the bottom. And the other thing is you can always add more, not because sowing over a curve like this bus can become kind of complicated. And the more not to have, the easier it is to pin in those places and then ease the fabric in along the curve. And another point is that when we make our own pattern, we always make all the seam allowances for any of these curved lines, such as your neck line, your sleeve, your arm hole, the curved edge of this princess line, one centimeter wide. So it's a standard practice to make 5, 8, 7 inch all of the seam allowances on all pattern pieces. It's easier for them that way and it's become a universal understanding. But if you're making an adjustment to a pattern such as this, you have the option of doing one centimeter seam allowance is going to make the sewing so much easier, especially on a printf line or any curved line that you have. So on a design where there's lots of curves on the inferior part of the pieces, for example, such as the designs that I'm showing here, are going to be so much easier if they're one centimeter apart from each other. And in conclusion, I just want to reiterate that. Feel free to write notes on your pattern pieces, on your Muslim or even in a book if you're that organized because all of the new information that you're gathering will be very helpful to remember in the future. So the project is to complete any part of making a Muslim using what you've learned here. First, one could be using muslin fabric and old sheet or creating a test garment that you'll actually where transfer the new sewing line to your pattern. The second one would be show me the twill tape being used that I taught you. And the third option would be show me the record that you make and what you learned about your body that will make the next garment that much easier. I can't wait to see what you discover. So, happy sewing, good luck with the muslin.