3-All Sewing Patterns Start like this.. | Marcy Newman | Skillshare

3-All Sewing Patterns Start like this..

Marcy Newman, SewwwMuchMore!

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6 Lessons (17m) View My Notes
    • 1. Welcome

    • 2. ASPSH First Take measurements

    • 3. Series of Blocks

    • 4. Slash and Spread

    • 5. Let's Play with Pants

    • 6. Princess Line and Conclusion

14 students are watching this class

About This Class

My classes are designed with the absolute beginner in mind, which is why they are a series in order.

3-All Sewing Patterns Start like This: (Pattern Drafting Basics Theory)- Background information of the Slash and Spread method showing where pieces may be adapted or changed as learning increases. 

1. Sewing Machine Basics - Seen one, you've Seen them all. 

2 What Sewing Patterns DON'T Tell You--Will lead the Beginner from the Purchase of a Pattern to the Laying out of pieces and testing the pattern (called Making a Muslin) before cutting out fabric, filling in all the blanks I've discovered after years of Sewing and studying Fashion Design. . (This video is temporarily being fine tuned and will be available shortly)

4-Sewing Without Reading a Pattern - Because all my students asked me to teach them How to read a pattern, I teach using the process I learned in Fashion Design School. With this understanding of the Step by step process, the New Sewer will learn what must be done first, and what can be done later. 

The Easiest Sleeve Insertion (Couture) is for the experienced Sewer and is not in the series of Beginner Videos. 


1. Welcome : Hi there. My name is Marcy. When I was a little girl, I used to love the pages in the coloring books that made you count by numbers and join the dots to reveal a picture. Then years later, when I was a fashion designer, I realized when we started pattern-making that they asked was exactly the same thing. The reason I'm doing this video is because I believe that having knowledge of the basic slash and spread method and the development of patterns as they go along from the basic bodice to address, for example, that this kind of information will help you if you come across certain things in a pattern that you're not really sure that you want in it. And then you'll be able to know that you can change it or how you can change it. So let's get started. 2. ASPSH First Take measurements: Pattern drafting starts with a standard set of measurements. Using the measurements and following the instructions. The very first thing that you do is you draw a square. And then you do a whole bunch of mathematical calculations to find out where each of the dots is going to be. And then you will reveal a picture. Honestly, while I was a student, I did not enjoy drafting, but as soon as I was relaxed after graduation, I enjoyed the process a lot. It certainly wasn't as easy as it was when I was a child in those coloring books. And this image shows the bodice piece of a woman's garment, which is the most basic place that you begin. The pieces we've created with the numbers. For example, this sheet. They are joined at the side seems now be traced onto another piece of paper to become individual pieces. So if you're working for yourself and these were your measurements that you began with, you would then have to add seam allowance to these pieces and make them in a Muslim fabric and test them to see how well it fits you. Because all original blocks are basically like your own skin with some 0s added in to allow garments to move on your body. And then you would create Manila copy. It's not too heavy like cardboard, but it's a light board, almost like a bristle board, but a little heavier than Bristol board. That will be your original bought us block. 3. Series of Blocks: The series that are created from these blocks are first the BOD is block and then the sleeve block just developed after the bodice block has finished using the measurements from it. As you can see on the top left, the dotted line shows the front and the back of the bond is blocked, joined together. You can see the shoulder seams and then around the arm hole. So those measurements correspond exactly with the measurements that will be on the head of the sleeve as seen in the Sweave image in the center of the page. And why this is important to know is that you cannot interchange sleeves from one pattern to another. Thinking it's going to fit because the measurements fit exactly to the pattern that it was made for. And the top right image just shows how to measure a curve. You keep the measuring tape standing upright and you hold it right along the edge of a curve and measure very carefully to get an exact measure of a curve. That space, by the way, is also called the arm psi. So far, each one of these has depended upon the other. For example, the broadest begins and you do the skirt after, and then you do a dress, can't do the dress without the BOD of sand, the skirt. And then you can't do a jacket without the dress. You can do the pants or the skirt at anytime you're ready. 4. Slash and Spread : Okay, so now the fun begins. This is where the designer gets to start to play with all of these blocks and create designs by cutting them up and using a slash and spread method to make new pieces. The image above from the left to the right shows the original skirt block developed into a pleated skirt. The second stage is that you draw a straight line from the Dart to the bottom. And in the third stage, you cut up those lines and separate the pieces. And desire how deep you want your pleats and then you move them over. Then at the end you would redraw the complete, finished piece. So basically pleats are just extra fabric added in and you can do whatever you want with them, folding them in any way you like folding them over once or folding them both over to the middle. And now that we're often buying secondhand clothes, skirts with pleats have extra fabric in them, which is a good thing to know. With depleted pattern, we didn't change the shape of the garment. We just added fabric in the middle, but with a flared skirt, as is in the image above. We just cut from the bottom to the top after making a line from the Dart and then in another place and swinging it over to add extra fabric at the bottom. To make a flare. Though, if you look closely at where the straight grain is, this piece will be folded in the middle and the straight grain will run up and down the middle of the fabric. The rest of the piece will almost be a little bit on the bias. So if you go to the store to buy a second hand skirt, and it's a really, really full skirt. It's only going to be the straight grain of fabric that's in the middle that may be able to be used because the rest of the fabric is now on the bias, which is a good thing to know. If you can see what I'm talking about. A yoke is a shaped pattern piece which forms part of a garment, usually fitting around the neck and shoulders or around the hips to provide support for looser parts of the garment, such as a gathered skirt or the body of a shirt, which you have probably seen a million times. At the top of this shirt has a yolk, but maybe never knew what the name was or why it was there. So this is an example of when I think, where it can have some fun with your pieces. So they divided the top and the bottom of this skirt and created a yoke, and then they slashed and spread the bottom part to add some flare. It changes a basic skirt completely. 5. Let's Play with Pants: This next image shows how a pant with pleats is developed. You take the original block and you trace around it, and you draw a line straight from the Dart to the bottom and then once again parallel to that line. And then you cut it from the top to the bottom instead. And you keep it connected at the bottom and you spread it however deep you want the pleats to be. Then you retrace that new piece and add seam allowance, and then you have a new piece. I wanted to just show you what an inseam pocket is. Because if you could see through a garment that has a side seem pocket, you could find any one of the following pockets. The construction technique is the same, but the shape of the pocket is different. It's according to whoever drew the pattern. And what they wanted to see though, I believe that the pocket on the left is the best kind of pocket because when you put your hand in, it gives you some depth. On the other two, you have to sew up the side, seem a little bit so that you create, you can create that. Otherwise everything falls out of your pocket. And then on the bottom part, it just shows you how they're each pieces added to the side seem you add it to the side seam of the front and then the side scene of the back. And then you sew up the side seam and then around the pocket. So that's a kind of pocket that if you can ever remember having one, that you would be able to put your hand in your pocket and pull the whole pocket right outside, sticking out the side. That's what an enzyme pocket is. And it's not that complicated when you know the pattern about how it's made. In the sewing videos that I will be starting right after this video. We will be doing a lesson on pockets. And you will be able to put the samples that you make into a book and keep them so that if you ever have to do it, you'll always have it to refer to. My next attempt here is to demystify what may seem like quite a complicated pocket, but actually is quite simple when you know the pattern pieces that it takes to do it. So this is front hip pocket, it's called and it's your standard blue jean pocket. So starting on the left, I show you that this is like the original Pat lock. So you shows you your side seam and your crotch. And we're looking on the outside and we're looking at the front of the pant. So on the second video, the second stage, all it does is you chop out a rounded portion of the top and you throw it away. You can make that a slant. You could make it a square. Your, it's your choice as a designer. In the third video, third portion there, it just shows you that that's what the new piece looks like. So if you buy a pattern, that's what it's gonna look like. And that's how they got there. So on the fourth stage, all they've done is the piece above is the facing. And the facing is the mirror image of the shape of the front. You're going to sew to the outside, right sides together. Or actually you see that peace could be a piece of scrap fabric if you didn't have any, if you didn't have enough fabric, it doesn't matter that peace will never be seen. So you saw it with right sides together along the curve and then you flip it to the inside. And the fifth stage there shows you it what it looks like now on the inside you can't see it. So the problem is that you have to fill in the little piece that you cut out. And so what we do is we fill it in with another piece of fabric. And it's kinda like another facing. You'll notice on a pair of blue jeans, a fever, wanna go and grab a pair. That piece is the pocket. It's the second piece of the pocket. And it's made out of the same fabric as the pant. You could do a design change and you could make it something, something nice. You could, you could fill that space in with anything creative that you would like to do. I would love to have you do a project where you create a new piece, that is your style, where you just draw it or use different piece of fabric and create something that's your own. 6. Princess Line and Conclusion: I just want to show you what a princess line is because it's the most flattering cut that any woman of any size will look good in. And what it does that you can see here is that they've taken the bodice and they've split it in the middle of the shoulder, and they draw the line right over the bust and then down. So it sort of form fits the top, which is very flattering on any body. It doesn't even matter if you're overweight or your large. Your this is flattering because it takes the eye down. And then if you add the skirt to the bottom and you flare it out, then it also covers up anything that you may have on the bottom and you don't want. So it's the most flattering design that I've ever seen on any woman. It's my favorite. And last but not least, I just wanted to show a little exercise that we did when I was in school, where we had to design an asymmetrical top and this was what I did. And I hope that this video has de mystified a lot of the process of patterns for you. and that going down the road that even this little bit of information has helped you to understand patterns a little bit more. So please look out for the next video where I begin to show you how to. So all of these portions off of garments and we create a book of samples that you'll have forever so happy sewing.